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View Full Version : Anyone wanna chip in ideas for next to no heat issue??



skim464
10-29-2012, 05:34 AM
Hi Hi everyone how are you guys surviving under the influence of hurricane??

I am in Georgia, and I did not get a single drop of rain... but it def got a lot colder (nothing like what northern people are experiencing of course)

My car never had a good heater.. at first my door flap was stuck and I got that loose but it is only blowing luke warm

I flushed the core back and forth and nothing but the clear coolant came out.. looked really clean and flows without any resistence. Should I get it done by professionals with compressed air??

Both of heater core hoses are hot and it always stay nicely at the center of temperature gauge (New thermostat went in last weekend)

It gives faint amount of heat at idle, gives luke warm heat at 2500 rpm (highway type of driving)

Car never overheats and doesnt have any other coolant related issues

Any inputs appreciated

walky_talky20
10-29-2012, 05:37 AM
Run HVAC on board diagnostics.

Roach-the-Great
10-29-2012, 07:12 AM
Run HVAC on board diagnostics.

X69 on that

skim464
10-29-2012, 12:19 PM
I will run the codes one more time but my temperature flap seems to work again since I got it loose about a month ago. a month ago it had 0 heat and now I can give... about 5% heat now lol. if I drive it for awhile and turn the heat on, it blows HOT for like 2 seconds. both heater core hoses are hot and I think it is just coated inside with gunk that cannot be purged just running garden hose water + CLR. Should I try Drano or Radiator Power Flush stuff??

Nollywood
10-29-2012, 12:47 PM
I will run the codes one more time but my temperature flap seems to work again since I got it loose about a month ago. a month ago it had 0 heat and now I can give... about 5% heat now lol. if I drive it for awhile and turn the heat on, it blows HOT for like 2 seconds. both heater core hoses are hot and I think it is just coated inside with gunk that cannot be purged just running garden hose water + CLR. Should I try Drano or Radiator Power Flush stuff??

You've replaced the thermostat, so that's ruled out. I wouldn't use compressed air to attempt clearing the heater core, assuming it's clogged. The end tanks are plactic, and you're likely to rupture it, if the pressure's too much.

Sounds like you've got a coolant flow problem, I'd be looking at your waterpump...

skim464
10-29-2012, 05:17 PM
11.7 - Central Flap Sporadic Block. is all I got. Temp regulating flap moves through its complete cycle (verified by looking at potentiometer reading)

It blows warm when I let it heat up a little bit before turning the heater on, but turning it on and driving it till it reaches operating temperature never gets as warm... sooo weird

skim464
10-30-2012, 04:59 AM
anyway... I already tried to flush with just water once and with CLR one more time. both times I got nothing but clean coolant out. Should I try anything more drastic like drano? well my friend who had the car also replaced the water pump and he said that didnt make any improvement.

skim464
10-30-2012, 05:18 AM
ah i wish I lived in maiami or somewhere heat is just not needed :))

skim464
10-30-2012, 08:45 AM
Ok... I just decided to do something drastic to cure this issue... I am going to put the radiator flush stuff and also attach the heater core hoses backward and drive around. What do you guys think about this method??

skim464
10-30-2012, 04:57 PM
I drained the radiator, put the flush stuff in, swapped the heater core hoses so it is constantly backflushing

I took it for a ride and here is the result

idle - Before - No heat, After - blows cold at the highest setting, blows warm at like 3~4 bars up.

3000 rpm (highway) - before - slight heat, warm? I dont think i can describe what I had as warm. After - Warm at full blast. I mean warm like 90 degrees (outside temp was around 53). I am pretty sure If i kept the fan at around 3/4th of the power, i could have gotten even hotter air.

Conclusion : it is working, and since the flush substance is suppose to work through 4~6 hours of driving, i will keep it this way for awhile and report back if it makes any more improvements or headache

Caution : Do it at your own risk as reversing the heater core hose can dislodge gunk and send it into the engine or plug up some other holes. I cleaned heater core out to best of my effort (back flush *5, CLR flush) before I tried to reverse the hoses. It was my last resort.

skim464
10-31-2012, 05:14 AM
has anybody used Prestone Super Cleaner (one that you run 4~6 hours of driving) before? any comments?

skim464
10-31-2012, 07:43 PM
One concern is..

Higher water content does have better thermal conductivity.

Could it be just getting better thermal conductivity from the higher water content in the cooling system at this moment?

If that is so... I guess I will go back to no heat once I switch back to 50/50 mix..?? hope not. It is working at least 3 times better. It is pumping out actual heat not luke warm air right now, better than yesterday even

seanj130
10-31-2012, 07:48 PM
I used to run STRAIGHT WATER during the HOT summer with no problems.. the only thing that could make your car not produce heat is not getting hot coolant through the heater core. If the fan is blowing, and the heat is just warm that means the coolant is just warm.. Maybe your thermostat is stuck open?

Nevermind saw new thermostat.. Did this start before or after the new thermostat went in?

ianwpb
10-31-2012, 07:55 PM
Did you install the thermostat correctly, i.e. not up side down?

seanj130
10-31-2012, 08:01 PM
Did you install the thermostat correctly, i.e. not up side down?

He is not OVERHEATING. Maybe a coolant temp sensor making the coolant gauge read normal.. But the thermostat is open and it is actually too cold. That makes no sense to me, but i hope it does to you.

skim464
10-31-2012, 08:25 PM
Well no heat problem has been there for years (my previous owner/ my friend had it for over 6 years, and heat barely worked for those years) He replaced thermostat and waterpump during the ownership of the vehicle but it didnt help no heat problem. Heater core hoses are just as hot as upper radiator hose. I believe it is just layers of rust inside the heater core and I just couldnt get it all flushed without having hot water supply.

Thermostat's installed correctly, Water Pump was installed not too long ago. Problem existed before/after

:)

dr.mangler
11-01-2012, 06:18 PM
Accept the fact that heater core is partly restricted if you keep flushing all that crap gonna stick in the head then warm air will be the least of your' worries. Once g12 starts solidifying it is very difficult to get 100% efficiency! either isolate the heater core and power flush with solvent or replace :)

skim464
11-02-2012, 05:06 AM
Yeap. I have a feeling i am not fighting against gunks but some coats of rocks or something. This method def helped to pump heat out to a certain extent... but to no avail it pars with nice new heater core. I guess I will have to try drano next as THE last resort... lol