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Avant Nate
10-27-2012, 08:29 AM
SO I FINALLY installed my used eliminator that has been sitting in my garage for forever. Biggest problem was separating the CHRA from the turbine housing so I could rotate it so my drain line didn't bind with the AC compressor. Rerouted my intercooler piping so that the DV is pre-throttle body, installed injectors (415 cc), AFPR, and Unitronic ECU. When I bought this, I got it for a steal on ebay as I was the only bidder. Even though I was listed in the ad, he wasn't to thrilled that I wanted the ECU as well. I think he was hoping to sell it to make a little more as I the whole package was cheap. Back to the issue.

When I tried to start it took a few tries(I made sure I primed it first), at which point it would hardly idle, around 5-600 rpm. Any throttle and it would die. I pulled a code for the TB, p1545(TB Malfunction), and after a little googling, I hoped I just needed TB Adaptation. I finally got it adapted, only to pull two more codes, p1595 and another I cant remember, but both for TB. I had to give up for a few days and when I tried to start it again, I could not get it to idle. It would Start, Rpms would reach about 1200, run for for about 1-2 seconds then die. Even with foot on the gas, it would still die.


So I put in stock ECU and boom, started right up , idled good, albeit quite rich.

Any suggestions?

danphines
10-27-2012, 09:24 AM
What are the last 4 digits/letters on the ECU you bought and what are the last 4 on your stock one?

Avant Nate
10-27-2012, 09:28 AM
557p, same as stock, even comes up same in VAG

Almost seems like an immobilizer, but AEB has none

redline380
10-27-2012, 09:48 AM
did you try aligning the throttle body without vag?

Avant Nate
10-27-2012, 10:00 AM
I tried clearing the codes and doing the manual TB alignment, but it didn't seem to work. I couldn't hear it. I have done it in the past with previous generations(stag1 1 apr, PC-16, K04 5bar, stock), but didn't do it when I put the stock ECU in.

redline380
10-27-2012, 10:08 AM
i guess if you wanted to waste some time id try using your stock injectors if you still have them. it would elimante the idea that the ecu may not be for 415cc injectors. i would also take the battery off for five minutes to reset the ecu and then leave the key in the on position for ten minutes. neither of those things will probably do anything but it would at least narrow it down

Seerlah
10-27-2012, 10:28 AM
Might be a long shot, but see if the Vag Com coding for your stock ECU matches the Unitronic one?

Avant Nate
10-27-2012, 11:23 AM
i guess if you wanted to waste some time id try using your stock injectors if you still have them. it would elimante the idea that the ecu may not be for 415cc injectors. i would also take the battery off for five minutes to reset the ecu and then leave the key in the on position for ten minutes. neither of those things will probably do anything but it would at least narrow it down

I thought that as well, but the stock ecu would run, even with the 415 injectors and a 3inch maf. I did take off the battery, and touched both sides together, but didnt leave it off for 5 minutes, and then tried the manual tba, but didn't hear that time as well. I'll try again.

Avant Nate
10-27-2012, 11:26 AM
Might be a long shot, but see if the Vag Com coding for your stock ECU matches the Unitronic one?

What do you mean by that? ECU #'s match up. Uni puts black stuff over their chips, right? Cause this one has it.

ddillenger
10-27-2012, 11:36 AM
Seerlah is referring to the soft coding in the ecu. Won't cause the issues your having.

(at least I assume that he is, as you already mentioned the module number is the same in vag).


Good luck, it sounds like the o2 heater circuit might have damaged the ecu. Do you have a pedal (or does depressing the accelerator do nothing?)

Avant Nate
10-27-2012, 11:58 AM
Seerlah is referring to the soft coding in the ecu. Won't cause the issues your having.

(at least I assume that he is, as you already mentioned the module number is the same in vag).


Good luck, it sounds like the o2 heater circuit might have damaged the ecu. Do you have a pedal (or does depressing the accelerator do nothing?)

When I was able to get idle, gas pedal would make it stall immediately. Now, Gas pedal depressed on start causes it to rev a little higher before it dies, still in that same 1-2 seconds. I did pull a code for primary O2 sensor, happened twice in about 6 months, on my K04 tune but reset, and didn't come back. Could I have damaged it on first fire up? Problems were immediate.

No apparent burns of any resistors, etc. on the ecu

Avant Nate
10-27-2012, 02:43 PM
So should I buy A1 A2 Germans setup or go Maestro?

Seerlah
10-27-2012, 03:10 PM
The Suite really is the better route no matter how you look at it. And really, $800 isn't a bad price at all compared to what other people pay for their tunes. And when compared to Unitronics, their OTS tunes are $890. Shenanigans I tell ya, shenanigans. Figure buy this tune now and never have to buy another one no matter what you throw at your car, as long as you use this same ECU.

*buy from Eurodyne distributor, and it is cheaper than buying direct from CTapp (~$40 difference, using my tuner's pricing as reference).

redline380
10-27-2012, 03:26 PM
maestro for him may be debatable because of old style ecu.

but even before that discussion starts, why not send in the current ecu to uni and see what they say about it. it could save you the money. unless you dont care about the money....

Seerlah
10-27-2012, 03:38 PM
Very good advice. But aaronamerica (think that is his user name) made some credible numbers on the ME5 Suite tuned for E85 and an eliminator GT3071R. Can't bag on the Suite for the ME5 if it has already been proven to be efficient with bringing in more than decent numbers. It's all in the tuning, and he tuned it himself. But I agree on sending the ECU in for testing first. Save there dollars where you can, man [up].

redline380
10-27-2012, 03:46 PM
Very good advice. But aaronamerica (think that is his user name) made some credible numbers on the ME5 Suite tuned for E85 and an eliminator GT3071R. Can't bag on the Suite for the ME5 if it has already been proven to be efficient with bringing in more than decent numbers. It's all in the tuning, and he tuned it himself. But I agree on sending the ECU in for testing first. Save there dollars where you can, man [up].

i know hes good with tuning. he helped me out a ton. i just think awm's would be much easier to tune for a beginner. of course this is an assumption on my part that op is a beginner. maestro essentilly does the same thing as any other tune. it changes the software in the ecu to make it compatible with the new hardware. its simply an interface for people without the ability to recode the ecu otherwise. it is also easier for a professional to change the ecu.

with that said i feel a proven off the shelf tune for his exact hardware may be better if he doesnt plan on changing the hardware. but maestro would ultimately be better if he wants to mess around with it and get good at tuning, if he isnt already. it would also be better (and cheaper in the long run) if a professional is tuning it a few times over

Seerlah
10-27-2012, 03:54 PM
Meh, I think you and I both agree that the Suite would be better (even though you won't openly admit it). I will use the gas consumption both us receive for example. I am more than happy with my tune...minus the AFR part throttle, idle and cruising out of boost. If I had the suite, I would easily get 25 MPG minimum mixed driving (out of boost of course). But even out of boost I don't get that. And oddly enough, all that seems necessary is the fuel map tweaking. And I can't do it simple because I don't have the suite. I'm not a big Unitronics fan anyways. Been a Eurodyne fan for the longest time. Even had their tune for the stock turbo back in like 08 when people did not even know they offered that.

Avant Nate
10-27-2012, 04:13 PM
I am leaning towards the Suite, because I'm positive I'll be changing my set up. I even have a Ctapp 630cc gt 3071r tune that I bought a while ago, but mods keep getting put off. This eliminator I got for a steal, so I thought it would it would be great in the meantime. The only thing it was missing was injectors, so I bought those new. Is the suite attached to the ECU or the VIN. Because for some reason I go through ECU's like crazy, PC-16, APR, and now this one, well this one I'm not sure it worked at all.
I already have 630cc injectors.

Will Uni even warranty a used ECU?

Seerlah
10-27-2012, 04:34 PM
I believe the Suite is attached to the ECU and the original owner. You would need to look into this further yourself. You will also need to talk to an authorized Unitronics dealer to see what stipulations come along with their tunes.

John@Unitronic
10-29-2012, 06:54 AM
Will Uni even warranty a used ECU?

There is a $150 license transfer fee involved in licensing/registering the software in your name if you're not the original owner.

It's fairly common to have a shorted throttle driver circuit within the ECU. Perhaps that is what you're suffering from with all the TB related issues/codes just with one ECU.

Avant Nate
10-29-2012, 07:08 AM
There is a $150 license transfer fee involved in licensing/registering the software in your name if you're not the original owner.

It's fairly common to have a shorted throttle driver circuit within the ECU. Perhaps that is what you're suffering from with all the TB related issues/codes just with one ECU.

If I were to transfer the license over, would this be something that would be warrantied? Nothing on the outside case proves it to be actual Unitronic. I don't have an actual license. It was sold as the 034 eliminator package, which included the Unitronic software. I would really like to use this as I purchased the injectors for it.

On the other note, how rich would the ctapp 3071r tune run on a gt28rs? I would have to adapt my intake for the ridiculous lightning maf.

John@Unitronic
10-29-2012, 12:51 PM
If I were to transfer the license over, would this be something that would be warrantied? Nothing on the outside case proves it to be actual Unitronic. I don't have an actual license. It was sold as the 034 eliminator package, which included the Unitronic software. I would really like to use this as I purchased the injectors for it.

On the other note, how rich would the ctapp 3071r tune run on a gt28rs? I would have to adapt my intake for the ridiculous lightning maf.

In order for the license transfer to happen, we would have to verify that it is in-fact a Unitronic Big Turbo Software file, first. This can be done by sending the ECU to our Headquarters. However, I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean by "warrantied"? If the throttle driver circuit is damaged, that is not something that we would be able to repair for you, as we generally recommend replacing the ECU at that point.

Avant Nate
10-29-2012, 01:28 PM
In order for the license transfer to happen, we would have to verify that it is in-fact a Unitronic Big Turbo Software file, first. This can be done by sending the ECU to our Headquarters. However, I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean by "warrantied"? If the throttle driver circuit is damaged, that is not something that we would be able to repair for you, as we generally recommend replacing the ECU at that point.
Would Unitronic program another ECU, supplied by me of course, or would I have to buy a new program altogether?

John@Unitronic
10-29-2012, 03:46 PM
Would Unitronic program another ECU, supplied by me of course, or would I have to buy a new program altogether?

If the License Transfer is completed, we can certainly program another ECU for you.

nunya
10-29-2012, 04:21 PM
Is your ABS light on? The AEB wont manually adapt the throttle body if it on. You have to unplug the module, both plugs.

--dillon

Avant Nate
10-29-2012, 08:19 PM
Is your ABS light on? The AEB wont manually adapt the throttle body if it on. You have to unplug the module, both plugs.

--dillon
No ABS light, I was actually able to do a manual TBA, but still reacts the same starts for 1-2 seconds and then dies. No CEL. Unplugged MAF no difference. I actually took it around the block on the stock tune, carefully watching my afr.

Another question. How small is the GT oil restrictor on for the oil feed line? I have the PSI kit and it looks ridiculously small, like so small it could easily be clogged.

Seerlah
10-30-2012, 03:25 AM
Yes, it is very small and there are cases of them getting clogged. GT oil restrictor size is .035" and .065" for journal bearing turbochargers (and GT40R+ sized turbochargers). With oil pressure that can reach over 100psi on cold start up and 75+psi in boost, it needs to be this small. What people do is run an inline screen filter just in case. I personally just make sure it is clean. Before I place the line on the fitting, I turn the engine till oil comes out the line. This should get any debris that may have been there out of the way (also process for priming the turbo). Place line on turbo, turn engine a few more times to get the bearings oiled, and never had an issue. Well, I did have an issue before and had my CHRA replaced. But I doubt it was from oil starvation.

demonmk2
10-30-2012, 05:44 PM
Is your ABS light on? The AEB wont manually adapt the throttle body if it on. You have to unplug the module, both plugs.

--dillon

are you sure about that?
mines on and I can adapt the TB.

Avant Nate
10-31-2012, 08:10 AM
So I can send my ECU in pay for a license transfer, and then pay for the update to my stock ECU, and for return shipping. And I lose a stock ECU. Or just let it go and get maestro. I would probably break even on the upgrade if I ever decided to sell it. I have everything printed and ready to send in, I'm just undecided.

And Apikol is about a mile from my house, who's a Maestro dealer

howardfootball
10-31-2012, 08:12 AM
I'd get the Maestro Suite. It really sets you up for any upgrade you may do in the future.

John@Unitronic
10-31-2012, 08:26 AM
So I can send my ECU in pay for a license transfer, and then pay for the update to my stock ECU, and for return shipping. And I lose a stock ECU. Or just let it go and get maestro. I would probably break even on the upgrade if I ever decided to sell it. I have everything printed and ready to send in, I'm just undecided.

And Apikol is about a mile from my house, who's a Maestro dealer
Keep in mind that you don't "lose" a stock ECU as you're referring to it. Your ECU can be programmed back to stock at any point in time, if you choose.

As for your decision, the biggest question I would ask yourself is; do you have any experience tuning? Are you familiar with what it is going to take to do so?

nunya
10-31-2012, 10:14 AM
are you sure about that?
mines on and I can adapt the TB.

Can you communicate with the ABS module? If you cant communicate to it, it wont adapt from my experience and many others. If it's just a sensor bad it will likely adapt just fine.

--dillon

k0mpresd
11-02-2012, 11:40 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ousaiByU1ko [;)]

http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy231/k0mpresd/78821A1E-B28E-46DC-9418-230918C8FDD7-1160-0000005BDA6D2C49.jpg

http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy231/k0mpresd/8d0_uni.png

somebody should just hire me. :p

rockersteady
11-03-2012, 02:40 AM
Check the ecu and your connector for corrosion, Ive seen ecus with corrosion on the pins that draw "fault codes" and other problems. If the sensors cant com with the ecu then you will have problems. In your case as youve experienced "problems" with prior ecus Id be having a good look at your connectors