4.2l A4 Build, Project Leela [Archive]

KraemerSXED

10-14-2012, 12:31 AM

So I have been updating my build on MN Audi for awhile now and being at the half way mark, kind of. I figured I would make a post. The plan is to put a C5 S6 4.2l V8 in my B5 A4. My car has the 1.8t with tip, my transmission died and so I decided to do this. Parts and upgrades are as follows; C5 S6 V8, S4 01E, SPEC Stage 1 Clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, S4 Front Axles, S4 Drive shaft, and S4 Differential. Once all of that's in, I am getting a custom exhaust made and possibly gonna do a Unitronic Stage 2 Tune. If I go with the tune I will do a before and after Dyno. Picture time.

Started out like this
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20120913_182259.jpg

Had to buy some S6 Brackets
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20120913_182011.jpg

Then the motor arrived
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20120914_094143.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20120914_095401.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20120914_100004.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20120914_100101.jpg

With a little damage
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20120914_102004.jpg

Tear down
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121012_081134.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121003_004224.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121004_230711.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121012_081016.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121013_082806.jpg

The drive shaft wouldn't come out of the transmission. Not one fucking bit. So it came out with everything.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121013_051925.jpg

I hope to be done by the end of October, if not then the first half of November. I just want to be done before snow falls.

coolgraymemo

10-14-2012, 01:06 AM

Wow. I love all these new V8 swaps.

I wish I had the bawls to do one.

Nollywood

10-14-2012, 04:09 AM

Good to see you here, J! [up]

oldskoolaudi

10-14-2012, 05:35 AM

I'll be watching closely, good luck!

Dcass08

10-14-2012, 06:34 AM

Where did you pick up your motor at? I'm looking at buying one to rebuild and swap out.

KraemerSXED

10-14-2012, 06:46 AM

I purchased the motor from South West Engines.

http://www.swengines.com/

If you give your e-mail when looking for a motor they send you a $100 off deal to your e-mail after 7 days, around 7 days time at least. And they also accept reasonable offers.

Nollywood

10-14-2012, 07:06 AM

Mr J, have you sorted out the wiring yet? Don't cut off the tip connectors, whatever you do. Just tie them aside. And the first thing you need to do, is code the S6 ECU for manual. The regular A6 4,2 ECU doesn't have a manual option...

KraemerSXED

10-14-2012, 07:28 AM

First I have to ask, do I know you? Am I missing something?

I haven't done any wiring yet. All my transmission stuff ships on Monday. And I get my clutch Monday, flywheel arrives Tuesday. So I am waiting to get all of that sorted before I start on the wiring. And I was gonna tie off the tip connectors. How can I code the ECU for Manual?

revolution337

10-14-2012, 07:47 AM

Wow I didn't realize how many people were actually doing this now lol.

Nollywood

10-14-2012, 08:14 AM

^^^Yeah, V8 in B5's is now a trend. [up]

NeedingAnAudi

10-14-2012, 08:38 AM

Well this sucks, by the time I get it done there will be like 20 people before me [:(]

OP good luck!

c0rrup

10-14-2012, 08:43 AM

Awesome build, can't wait to see how it turns out.

walky_talky20

10-14-2012, 09:51 AM

redline380

10-14-2012, 10:01 AM

Good to see this is up on audizine now [up] Ive been following it on mn audi too, but something like this needs to be on a national forum. although putting a v8 in a b5 is practically as popular as breathing nowadays

KraemerSXED

10-14-2012, 04:54 PM

Perhaps you know this already, but you don't need to do anything with the rear diff. A4 Tip rear diff = S4 rear diff. Both are 4.11:1 ratio. The only difference is the inner flanges (size of the inner CV's). So you can either leave it alone and be fine, or change the rear diff and both rear axles...and be fine, minus whatever cash you dropped on those parts.

Yes I will be keeping the A4 tip differential. Once I have the S4 differential I will be selling it most likely.

Spent sometime cleaning up the engine bay. She was pretty damn dirty.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121014_123249.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121014_182221.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121014_143625.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121014_180345.jpg

Now I have never seen a B5 A4 sub frame before so I don't know if this is normal. But should mine have this dip in it on the left side?
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121014_182406.jpg

Also, here's my transmission mounts, I think I will need a new drivers side mount. Thoughts?

Drivers Side:
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121014_182301.jpg

Passengers Side:
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121014_182323.jpg

walky_talky20

10-14-2012, 05:07 PM

Meh. Should be able to reuse those for now...

Nollywood

10-15-2012, 01:41 AM

I'd replace both, even the one that seems okay. Oil erodes rubber, so it'll be pretty soft anyway.

KraemerSXED

10-16-2012, 02:03 PM

So I received the clutch and flywheel. Both look good, I expect the SPEC to perform well and I used Fidanza on my old 240sx before so I know that will perform nicely.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121015_135637.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121016_144943.jpg

KraemerSXED

10-19-2012, 11:33 AM

Small update, because I am excited to get this done. Transmission swap kit arrives early next week. The drive shaft had something wrong with it so Audi's 4 Parts is gonna fix it and send it out and I should see it Wednesday or Thursday. I ordered new stock transmission mounts and some Stern "Firm" motor mounts that I should get on Wednesday. An exciting week with a little court and my birthday. lol

KraemerSXED

10-19-2012, 05:14 PM

Okay so I bought a second fan from a junk/salvage yard and there is some possible complications. My car, a 2000 A4 1.8t has this AC Condenser fan plug:
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121019_190149.jpg

I told the people at this place I need a 2000 A4 1.8t AC Condenser fan and they tell me "yeah we have that in stock"..... so I drive the one and a half hours to get to the place arriving EXACTLY on the dot when they close. So I was rushed into purchasing and getting out the door. Once I get back to my car I read the label and it says "'99 VW Passat"...... I said to myself "hmmmm but it looks the same". So with the place being locked and me wanting to drive the hour and a half back home I left with it, they charged me $96. I get home and compare, they are completely identical, but the Passats plug looks like this:
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121019_190252.jpg

Anyone know if it's the exact same? Will work? Same CFM? Same Voltage? I am gonna give Audi and VW a call tomorrow to see if I can find any info. But if any of you have an idea on here please speak up.

KraemerSXED

10-20-2012, 03:40 PM

Wishing I had photoshop to use and not my desktop.... anyone else with this swap figure out the connector stuff?

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/S6-A4redtanandblackplugs.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/S6-A4whiteblueandorange.jpg

Tan, Black and Orange are all good to go, but white and red wont work out. How did you guys who did this swap fix this?

walky_talky20

10-20-2012, 03:50 PM

Nollywood

10-20-2012, 03:59 PM

The white plug should be pretty much standard across the majority of Audi / Volkswagen. It's the electronic pedal connector (DBW).

JumboBlack1.8

10-20-2012, 04:05 PM

How much did the engine run you?

Also, dont make the mistake I did.....buy a 2.8 lightweight flywheel to avoid having to use the transmission spacer plate to mount the O1e.

And, don't get a Unitronics tune. Go for JHM and call it a day.

Exhaust plans? Cooling? Heat protection?

Lastly, if you don't have a C5 subframe, you'll need spacers for the engine and transmission, as the oil pan will most certainly touch. Go to www.mcmastercarr.com for supplies. They'll have any and everything you need.

KraemerSXED

10-20-2012, 04:31 PM

Looks like White and Red could be re-pinned to work. The type of pins is the same, just a different configuration. You would merely need the 2 correct connector housings, and the little tool to safely remove the pins from the connector. And the wiring diagram to know which pins go where, of course.

As a side note, "just because it plugs in, doesn't mean it's all good". I expect that you have [laboriously and painstakingly] compared the wiring diagrams and checked that the other connector pinouts are a match. "Plug and hope for the best" can sometimes work...or sometimes fry an ECU/Cluster/other-expensive-module.

As for your fan: a fan is a fan. There are 2 pins, power and ground - just "make it happen". I would suggest you hack off the Passat connector and solder/splice on the connector from your dead fan. You *may* even be able to de-pin them and just swap the connector housing itself.

Yeah I was thinking of popping the ones off the 1.8t harness. I am just gonna part out the motor. I only have the BBD wiring diagrams that confuse me. I just stare at them for an hour learning almost nothing. I did figure out a few things though. But nothing to special. And the fans not dead, I am going to use both of them for more airflow.

Also, what tool are you talking about for popping off the plugs?

The white plug should be pretty much standard across the majority of Audi / Volkswagen. It's the electronic pedal connector (DBW).

Well the white one wont plug in, like I said above, I will just pop off the white and red male from the 1.8t harness.

How much did the engine run you?

Also, dont make the mistake I did.....buy a 2.8 lightweight flywheel to avoid having to use the transmission spacer plate to mount the O1e.

And, don't get a Unitronics tune. Go for JHM and call it a day.

Exhaust plans? Cooling? Heat protection?

Lastly, if you don't have a C5 subframe, you'll need spacers for the engine and transmission, as the oil pan will most certainly touch. Go to www.mcmastercarr.com for supplies. They'll have any and everything you need.

I paid $3,400 for my engine with 46,000 miles. Maybe I paid to much, don't care though, I was happy with the price.

I bought a S4 flywheel. And I communicate with Nollywood through e-mail, have been before I started this project. So to my understanding all my stuff will fit just fine. I even read all 32 pages of the "debateing an s6 swap" thread.

Maybe, I will look into JHM. But I had to buy a starter, costing me $650, that was my tune money. So that will have to wait awhile for the tune.

Exhaust will all be custom from the down pipes to the tips. I am using A6 headers. As far as cooling I am sticking with the 1.8t radiator for now until summer. I am going with 2 1.8t AC condenser fans to help with air flow. And since winter right around the corner I should be fine until summer when I would like to get a bigger radiator and possibly better fans.

And lastly, from reading in the "debating s6 swap" thread it is to my understanding that since I had a 1.8t tip in my car my sub frame (apparently same as S4 and A6) will allow for down pipe clearance. It's just the 1.8t manuals that had a sub frame that wouldn't allow for it.

JumboBlack1.8

10-20-2012, 04:38 PM

I paid $3,400 for my engine with 46,000 miles. Maybe I paid to much, don't care though, I was happy with the price.

I bought a S4 flywheel. And I communicate with Nollywood through e-mail, have been before I started this project. So to my understanding all my stuff will fit just fine. I even read all 32 pages of the "debateing an s6 swap" thread.

Maybe, I will look into JHM. But I had to buy a starter, costing me $650, that was my tune money. So that will have to wait awhile for the tune.

Exhaust will all be custom from the down pipes to the tips. I am using A6 headers. As far as cooling I am sticking with the 1.8t radiator for now until summer. I am going with 2 1.8t AC condenser fans to help with air flow. And since winter right around the corner I should be fine until summer when I would like to get a bigger radiator and possibly better fans.

And lastly, from reading in the "debating s6 swap" thread it is to my understanding that since I had a 1.8t tip in my car my sub frame (apparently same as S4 and A6) will allow for down pipe clearance. It's just the 1.8t manuals that had a sub frame that wouldn't allow for it.

Did the motor come with accessories for that price? It looks clean, but damn. Although I am jealous of that mileage. Nice find.

Also, the issue with the B5 tip subframe isn't downpipe clearance (i'm running one too), it's that the middle section doesn't have a "dip" to account for the V8 subframe. Trust me....it WILL hit. There are quite a few pages in my build thread where both Revolution337 and myself have run into this. You must use spacers.

What is the stack heigh of your flywheel and clutch assembled? I just spent about 10 hrs today, battling with my 01e to get it to mate the V8 block without the trans spacer. I'm using a Spec B5 s4 lwfw, and I just spent over an hour grinding away parts of the bell housing to get the clutch/flywheel to clear. Tomorrow, I'll see whether or not it was all in vain......But, if I were at your stage in this build, I'd return that flywheel and get one intended for a 2.8. It'll make your life a lot easier.

KraemerSXED

10-20-2012, 05:40 PM

Did the motor come with accessories for that price? It looks clean, but damn. Although I am jealous of that mileage. Nice find.

Also, the issue with the B5 tip subframe isn't downpipe clearance (i'm running one too), it's that the middle section doesn't have a "dip" to account for the V8 subframe. Trust me....it WILL hit. There are quite a few pages in my build thread where both Revolution337 and myself have run into this. You must use spacers.

What is the stack heigh of your flywheel and clutch assembled? I just spent about 10 hrs today, battling with my 01e to get it to mate the V8 block without the trans spacer. I'm using a Spec B5 s4 lwfw, and I just spent over an hour grinding away parts of the bell housing to get the clutch/flywheel to clear. Tomorrow, I'll see whether or not it was all in vain......But, if I were at your stage in this build, I'd return that flywheel and get one intended for a 2.8. It'll make your life a lot easier.

It came with the wiring harness, ECU and one motor mount. There is 2 damaged coolant pipes that cost me $231 to replace. One was $220, the other being $11. And no starter costing me $650. No alternator, I was gonna use the 1.8t one, which I think will work. Haven't gotten around to asking if it will or not yet.

I have read a lot about that in "the" thread and I also read that the S6 oil pan is slightly smaller (height wise) and will clear, barely. And that having stiff mounts will help keep the motor clear. One of the reasons I ordered Stern "firm" mounts. I am going to test fit it first, and if need be I will use spacers.

I don't know the stack height currently. But I am gonna stick with what I have for now. If it doesn't work out, it doesn't, I will try it another way. If I am correct you are using the 32v, am I wrong?

JumboBlack1.8

10-20-2012, 06:58 PM

Why in the HELL did you spend so much on those coolant lines?! I could've given you my extra set for dirt cheap, man. And $650 for a starter?? Wow.........Sounds like you went to the stealership, instead of the junkyard.

No, I'm not using a 32v. My motor is exactly the same as yours. And I'm telling you, you will need spacers....There is no way around.....it will not mount without them. I also have Stern Motor mounts. With all due respect, you should probably re-read the thread in more depth. The talk of motor mount spacers in written explicitly in two places. My spacers came out to a total of 1/2" on each side, and a little under 1/2" on the trans mounts.

And, my advice about the S4 flywheel is sound. If you choose not to heed my warning, than that's your prerogative, I suppose. But if you run the S4 flywheel with the trans spacer, the motor will sit too far forward, and you'll run into challenges with mounting the radiator, fans, etc. As I mentioned, I'm experimenting with grinding the 01e bellhousing to accomodate, and I'll update my thread with my findings tomorrow.

Anyway, that's my advice to you, coming from someone who is far along into their 40v S6 4.2 + 01e swap....

KraemerSXED

10-20-2012, 07:34 PM

KraemerSXED

10-20-2012, 07:48 PM

Not that easy to find 30v flywheels. I did find this one:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Audi/A4/Luk/Flywheel/2000/Base/6_Cyl_2-dot-8L/W0133-1597290.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain

But I have never heard of Luk. Can anyone shoot me some links to something good? Or tell me that this is a good brand?

revolution337

10-20-2012, 07:54 PM

I did not use a trans spacer, but I also am running a 01A.

edit: get a 30v flywheel from clutch masters.

KraemerSXED

10-20-2012, 08:27 PM

I did not use a trans spacer, but I also am running a 01A.

edit: get a 30v flywheel from clutch masters.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-V6_30v/Drivetrain/Clutch/ES2083459/

Like this one? Know if there is one cheaper anywhere?

JumboBlack1.8

10-20-2012, 09:24 PM

Nope. Like this:
http://www.amazon.com/ClutchMasters-FW-024-30V-AL-Aluminum-Flywheel-1996-1997/dp/B005AJKA42

I can't find any cheaper. I've been looking myself...

Shoot me a PM about those coolant lines. I'll send the correct ones that you'll need to replace (the bent one, and the other hard line that comes off the oil cooler....the oil cooler line on the S6 goes to an external/secondary radiator, which isn't necessary for this swap.....I'll explain more via PM)

Also be sure to get the Buffkin billet coolant pipe while you're at it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Audi-oil-cooler-pipe-4-2L-V8-Engine-A8-A6-RS6-Phaeton-/260935189587?hash=item3cc0f30453&item=260935189587&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

KraemerSXED

10-20-2012, 09:43 PM

Nollywood

10-21-2012, 01:32 AM

Sweet deal on that flywheel, thanks. Just placed my order. So who needs an S4 11lb fidanza flywheel? haha

Ordered the coolant pipe, I did read about the issues so thanks for the link. And I will PM you shortly.

Now you'll need to order a different clutch pressure plate, the S4 one won't work with the 30V flywheel. The 241,0mm friction disc will interchange.

Nollywood

10-21-2012, 01:33 AM

KraemerSXED

10-21-2012, 09:02 AM

Now you'll need to order a different clutch pressure plate, the S4 one won't work with the 30V flywheel. The 241,0mm friction disc will interchange.

Just a new pressure plate? or the whole clutch? And different as in a 30v pressure plate?

Nollywood

10-21-2012, 09:22 AM

Just a new pressure plate? or the whole clutch? And different as in a 30v pressure plate?

Just the pressure plate, for use with a 30V flywheel.

KraemerSXED

10-21-2012, 09:56 AM

Okay, that's not so bad. Now I am leaving to a junkyard to look at an A6, only problem is, they can't tell me what motor is in it.... seriously? w/e hopefully it's the 4.2l.

KraemerSXED

10-21-2012, 03:27 PM

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/wiringconfusion.jpg

Looking at the picture above I only see one problem. The S6 has a blue wire that won't seemingly correspond with the white female. Should I just tie it off to the side when I switch plugs? Or put in the the space where the light blue one wont be..... but I don't think thats right. Input?

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/wiringconfusion2.jpg

Now looking above at the red plugs we see that the A4's plug has a green/brown and purple/black wire that wont be needed. Other wise everything else matches up.

On both plugs should I be worried about the 3 wires from the 1.8t harness that wont be plugged in at all?

KraemerSXED

10-22-2012, 05:50 PM

BUMP, I would really like some insight on the wiring before I attempt ANYTHING.

redline380

10-22-2012, 06:00 PM

id like to be able to help, but cant. the best i can offer is start looking for wiring diagrams and compare. id imagine many of the plugs and wiring colors are same/similar, but i have no idea and id have to assum that theres gotta be a few differences. maybe by a couple shop manuals

revolution337

10-22-2012, 06:46 PM

There's not a whole lot else that any of us can do for you at this point. You will need to set aside a good chunk of time and pin out the entire engine harness for both motors and compare. You can't really expect someone on here to chime in with 100% of the info you need for this project. Make sure you have power in the correct locations, and sensor data matches up.

KraemerSXED

10-22-2012, 06:52 PM

. You can't really expect someone on here to chime in with 100% of the info you need for this project.

I don't, but I thought maybe you, nolly, or jumbo could chime in considering we are all doing the same thing pretty much.

AudiA4_20T

10-22-2012, 06:55 PM

What year is the motor and the car? Funny, wiring is similar as 2.7T into B6

KraemerSXED

10-22-2012, 07:03 PM

A4 is 2000

S6 is 2002

ddillenger

10-22-2012, 07:57 PM

Having done many, many motor swaps, I can confidently tell you that just matching up colors is a bad idea. You need the PINOUTS in order to verify the common colored wires share a function. That blue wire may correlate with a different color wire.

KraemerSXED

10-23-2012, 12:53 PM

The only wire diagrams I have access to are in the Bentley manual for the C5 series. If anyone wants to provide the specific A4 one I need, please, be my guest.

ElliottG

10-23-2012, 01:51 PM

Try here:

http://www.bbbind.com/tech_database.html

They have a lot of diagrams over there.

KraemerSXED

10-23-2012, 04:04 PM

Thanks for the link, I will browse around it for awhile.

Received the transmission swap kit today.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121023_164933.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121023_164941.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121023_170509.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121023_170518.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121023_170154.jpg

This was with it, not sure what it's for.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121023_170552.jpg

Will probably be selling the S4 clutch and flywheel along with the differential.

revolution337

10-23-2012, 04:36 PM

That last picture is the hydraulic line for the clutch slave cylinder.

KraemerSXED

10-25-2012, 03:09 PM

walky_talky20

10-25-2012, 03:27 PM

That last picture is the hydraulic line for the clutch slave cylinder.

^This...and, OP you're going to need it. From experience, I can tell you it is *really* hard to get a junkyard to fess one of those things up. Even if they have 12 of them, they will tell you to go away. You and your pallet of swap parts....lucky.

KraemerSXED

10-25-2012, 03:34 PM

^This...and, OP you're going to need it. From experience, I can tell you it is *really* hard to get a junkyard to fess one of those things up. Even if they have 12 of them, they will tell you to go away. You and your pallet of swap parts....lucky.

I know I read his post, I don't plan on getting rid of it, that's for sure. I am lucky though to find a place.... closeish.... to me that is getting a crashed A6 with the 4.2l and I am snagging a lot of stuff from it. Otherwise I picked up a starter, had it tested and it worked. Today I picked up the PS pump and Alternator. Had the Alternator tested and it FAILED :( So now I have to find another one.

And the clutch master 2.8l 30v flywheel arrived, barely smaller then the S4 flywheel.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121025_160318.jpg

Nollywood

10-26-2012, 12:52 AM

^^^It won't be smaller than the S4 flywheel, not in diameter anyway. From memory, both have 135 / 136 teeth on the starter ring gear. The S4 item will obviously be slightly thicker.

KraemerSXED

10-26-2012, 01:10 PM

Yeah I meant smaller by thickness. But not by that much.

KraemerSXED

11-02-2012, 07:08 PM

Okay so now that I have spent some real time with the Bentley poop book. This is what I am understanding of the wiring.

T17I the White 17 Pin connector going into the "E-Box connector station" on the S6 Harness.
_______________________________________________
Yellow/Violet :\
Brown/Red :---- Throttle Position Sensor
Yellow/Blue :/____________________________________
Blue :\
Grey/Yellow :---- Sensor -2- For Accelerator Pedal Position
Brown/Green :/___________________________________
Red - Fuse 29 in Fuse holder________________________
Red/Black - Brake Light Switch_______________________
White/Red - Brake Pedal Switch For Cruise Control_______
Red - Fuse For Secondary Air Pump___________________
Red/Yellow :\
Blue/Violet : \__
Red/Grey : -------------- Cruise Control Switch
Black/White :/____________________________________

That is all 14 pins of the 17 open connectors. Now on mine I have 2 blues, which is fine for one of the blue wires, but not fine for the blue/violet wire......

T17K the Red 17 Pin connector going into the "E-Box connection station" on the S6 Harness.
__________________________________________________
Violet/Blue - Emergency Flasher Switch
_________- Airbag Control Module__________________________
Orange/Brown - 17 Pin Blue then to Transmission Control Module__
Orange/Black - 17 Pin Blue then to Transmission Control Module___
Black/Yellow - A/C Control Head____________________________
Black/Greay - A/C Control Head_____________________________

Still having trouble finding the right A4 pin outs I need. But I have the S6 pretty much all figured out now that I understand whats going on with the wiring map. I think I am right though haha

Okay, with some A4 diagrams on hand I have figured out somethings.

Once again, A4 Pins Below
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121021_163548-1.jpg

S6 Pins Below
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/ARGH1.jpghttp://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/Argh2.jpg

Quite I few match up, and some....... yeah, here's the details.
S6---------------A4 CRUISE CONTROL SWITCH
Red/Yellow----Red/Yellow
Blue/Violet----Blue-------------------------Colors don't match but I should be fine right?
Red/Grey------Red/Grey
Black/White---Black/White

S6----------------A4 SENDER -2- FOR ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION
Blue--------------Grey----------------------Same things, colors don't match but I think I will be fine.
Grey/Yellow-----Grey/Yellow
Brown/Green---Brown/Green

S6----------------A4 THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
Yellow/Violet---Yellow/Violet
Brown/Red-----Brown/Red
Yellow/Blue-----Yellow/Blue

S6-------------A4
Red/Black----Red/Black----BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
White/Red---White/Red---BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH/BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH FOR CRUISE CONTROL

Those are the only ones on the WHITE connector that I have matched up. Otherwise I have a Red/Green wire? on the A4 connector.... that's what the diagram shows/says and that it is for the "Clutch Vacuum Vent Valve Switch". But I do not have a Red/Green wire.

The S6 ones that still don't have a match are the two big wires in the middle. The S6 diagram labels them for Fuses. Otherwise I have 12 for 12 matched up, for the small wires. I am gonna dig in the manual some more and update this and I will follow up with the red connector.

KraemerSXED

11-13-2012, 08:57 AM

Deleted, writing up a good post

KraemerSXED

11-13-2012, 04:24 PM

Alright, I mapped out all of it to the best of my knowledge. I will just make a long list and no pictures.

S6 Wiring-----------------A4 Wiring-----White, Black, Red, Orange and Tan plugs.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _________________________________________________

WHITE PLUG T17i in S6 & T15 in A4

S6--------------A4

CRUISE CONTROL SWITCH
Red/Yellow----Red/Yellow
Blue/Violet----Blue-------------------------Colors don't match but I should be fine right?
Red/Grey------Red/Grey
Black/White---Black/White

SENDER -2- FOR ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION
Blue--------------Grey----------------------Same things, colors don't match but I think I will be fine.
Grey/Yellow-----Grey/Yellow
Brown/Green---Brown/Green

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
Yellow/Violet---Yellow/Violet
Brown/Red-----Brown/Red
Yellow/Blue-----Yellow/Blue

Red/Black----Red/Black----BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
White/Red---White/Red---BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH/BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH FOR CRUISE CONTROL

Red/Green---Red/Green--CLUTCH VACUUM VENT VALVE SWITCH Neither have red/green so maybe the red/ light blue is the correct one? And the S6 plug just has 2 Red ones..... aggravating.
Red------------Red----------ECM POWER SUPPLY RELAY? I only found this to be so in the S6 diagrams, not the A4 diagrams. But still I don't know which red wire >.<
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________

BLACK PLUG T10p in S6 & T10m in A4

S6----------------A4

Green/Blue-----Green/Blue -----TACHOMETER
White/Grey-----White/Grey-----OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT (from oil pressure switch)
Blue/Yellow-----Blue/Yellow-----ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL & TEMPERATURE (from engine coolant level warning switch)
Brown/Red------Brown/Red-----SPEEDOMETER (from speed sensor)
Blue/Brown-----Blue/Brown-----ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE

^^^^^In the A4 diagrams these were listed (putting this vaguely) Black Plug (T10m) - Blue Plug - Gauge Cluster
^^^^^In the S6 Diagrams they were all listed with their "operations".

Blue--------------Blue-------------CONTROL MODULE WITH DISPLAY UNIT IN INSTRUMENT CLUSTER (J285 in the S6 Manual) The A4 manual listed this as Black Plug T10m - Green Plug - Gauge Cluster

Red/Blue--------Red/Blue-------FUEL PUMP RELAY

Red--------------Red--------------ESM POWER SUPPLY RELAY OR FUSE FOR SECONDARY AIR PUMP.......... Both books said different things or I miss read the diagram. I will take a look when I am done typing this.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ______________________________

RED PLUG T17k in S6 & T15m in A4

S6--------------------A4

A/C CONTROL HEAD
Black/Yellow--------Black/Yellow
Black/Grey----------Black/Grey

TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE
Orange/Brown----Red/Brown---The manual says RED but the wires I have are Orange/Brown on the A4
Orange/Black------Red/Black----^^^

Violet/Blue---------Violet/Blue---??????????????????

No more wires on the S6's Red Plug, A4's has 7.

----------------------Green/Brown---- ABS CONTROL MODULE (My ABS is broken anyways so I don't know if this even matters).
----------------------Black/Violet------?ECM? I will look into this later also.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________

ORANGE PLUG T10n in S6 & T10ar in A4

S6--------------------A4

Black/Blue----------Black/Blue-------FUSE IN FUSE HOLDER (S6 manual labels it Fuse 32)
Red/Green---------Red/Green-------FUSE IN FUSE HOLDER (S6 manual labels it Fuse 29)
Geen/Yellow-------Green/Yellow----FUSE IN FUSE HOLDER (S6 manual labels it Fuse 34)

White/Yellow------White/Yellow----LEAK DETECTION PUMP (BOTH go to a brown plug, then the leak detection pump)
Yellow/Red---------Yellow/Red------LEAK DETECTION PUMP (^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^)

Red/Blue-------------------------------ABS WIRING HARNESS (Maybe wrong, only from S6 Manual)

----------------------Red/Brown------FAULT LIGHT FOR POWER ACCELERATOR ACTIVATION (Also could be wrong, I will revise)
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______________________________

TAN/BROWN PLUG T10o on S6 & T10 on A4

S6--------------------A4

Red/Black-----------Red/Black--------STARTER

This one really sucks, I will do them individually.

Green/Red-------------------------------CONTROL MODULE WITH DISPLAY UNIT IN INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
Red/White-------------------------------OIL LEVEL THERMAL SENSOR
Brown/Red------------------------------OIL LEVEL THERMAL SENSOR

-----------------------Black/Blue--------BACK UP LIGHT SWITCH

INTRUMETN CLUSTER COMBINATION PROCESSOR
-----------------------Green/Red
-----------------------Yellow
-----------------------White/Blue

-----------------------Yellow/Brown----INDICATOR LIGHT FOR ENGINE ELECTRONICS
__________________________________________________ _______________________________________

Well there you have it. Most of it is right but some may be wrong, some of it might be wrong cause I don't fully understand the relay portion of the diagram.

JumboBlack1.8

11-14-2012, 06:03 AM

^^^Awesome stuff. Excited to see your results. Have you tested whether or not the S6 plugs physically match up to the A4 body plugs. IIRC, mine did not. So I have a spare AWM wiring harness that I'm stealing the plugs off of.

KraemerSXED

11-14-2012, 08:23 PM

I will probably do the same, I already cut the red and white one off the A4. I just don't know what to do with the extra wires or ones that don't match up.

KraemerSXED

11-19-2012, 01:46 PM

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121118_175327.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121119_022858.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121119_013010.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121119_030705.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121119_032003.jpg

I was an idiot with the steering column and fucked up the Eccentric Bolt, I got it off though once I realized my idiotic mistake.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121118_185441.jpg

Otherwise the, what I call "sexy" pedals are ready to go in, I am having some trouble getting it all stuffed in there and the manual set-up has 4 plugs compared to the 2 on the automatic pedals. Can anyone share some insight on this? Otherwise I will be consulting the manual.....

I torqued down the Flywheel and PP to and maybe I will have the transmission bolted up this week depending on how busy I am. Maybe the milltek downpipes will be here to this week.

JumboBlack1.8

11-19-2012, 01:58 PM

Nice progress, man!

The back of your motor looks WAY cleaner than mine. Wish I had looked a little longer for a lower mileage motor.

revolution337

11-19-2012, 03:12 PM

looking good [up]

KraemerSXED

11-19-2012, 06:27 PM

Nice progress, man!

The back of your motor looks WAY cleaner than mine. Wish I had looked a little longer for a lower mileage motor.

Yeah it's fairly nice for being almost 11 years old. The valve covers are pretty dirty and an engine knock sensor is missing. I wonder why the knock sensor is missing.... Hopefully I can find some heater core hoses by next week and have the motor in after wards. I still need an alternator and have to do the wiring. Let me know how the wiring goes for you Jumbo, also would you be willing to PM me pics of before and after if you did yours already? I am going to start tonight but only on the ones I know I can do properly.

KraemerSXED

11-20-2012, 12:24 AM

So in this first picture there is 3 throw out bearings. The one on the left came with the Spec Stage 1 clutch for a S4, the one on the right is from my Stage 4 Clutch Masters for a 2.8 that I ordered and the middle one is the used one from the O1E Transmission. I wasn't sure what to do since I used a 2.8 clutch and flywheel and the used throw out bearing looked like the 2.8 one. So I used the 2.8 throw out bearing I received. Should I be using the other one you think? Or am I missing something. Everything I have done drive train wise is Flywheel, Clutch, Pressure Plate, and Throw Out Bearing. Am I missing something? Why is the one on the right so big with that extra piece? Follow the pictures to see where I am at as of 20 min ago.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121120_003440.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121120_005829.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121120_005915.jpg

This is when I realized I have to do some big improvising.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121120_010223.jpg

So I grabbed another jack and lifted one leg over the skid "wall".
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121120_012049.jpg

Then I still couldn't get her close enough so I cut a bunch of wood to slide the leg further down the skid and ended up this close.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121120_014937.jpg

Makes me happy, but I also DON'T wanna be forgetting anything. It is NOT bolted up yet, just sitting there for now. So my question stands from above, am I forgetting ANYTHING?

Also, how do I adjust the piece in the transmission that looks like this.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121120_015538.jpg

KraemerSXED

11-20-2012, 12:27 AM

Okay just was informed I should use the tool pictured. Sadly I broke the handle on it >.< The transmission swung into it and snapped it right off. Time to work something out.

walky_talky20

11-20-2012, 08:49 AM

If your pressure plate is bolted up, you are done with that tool. Take it out.

If you're having trouble getting the input shaft to engage with your clutch, you just want to rotate the transmission case a bit. Once it slides in, then straighten it up again so it will line up with the dowel pins, and bring it together the rest of the way.

KraemerSXED

11-20-2012, 01:33 PM

Yeah that makes it sound SO easy lol. Truth is right now I have it pretty much a centimeter from the engine. I have to pull her back off though because I forgot the pilot bearing. Luckily I have one and an extra tool.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121120_025906.jpg

So I will give her another go in a min.

JumboBlack1.8

11-20-2012, 01:35 PM

The AASCO flywheel already has a brand new Pilot Bearing installed. No need to install another one.

KraemerSXED

11-20-2012, 01:41 PM

Why do you call it AASCO? As far as I know I bought a clutch masters one. Unless I am missing some small detail.

JumboBlack1.8

11-20-2012, 01:44 PM

Oh, I forgot. Either way, it was made by Aasco, as they manufacture a large majority of aftermarket flywheels and redistribute them to companys like ClutchMasters, who then do their own labeling/branding. So, either way.....we're talking about the same product. But, those flywheels do already have a pilot bearing installed. Mine did.

KraemerSXED

11-20-2012, 01:48 PM

I don't think mine did.

I can see a bearing in there.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121025_160318.jpg

But what about the pilot bearing at the end of that clutch alignment tool?

JumboBlack1.8

11-20-2012, 01:49 PM

That's all you need. The pilot bearing on this flywheel is open and more shallow than 20v 1.8t and S4 flywheels. There is no bearing at the end of the tool....

KraemerSXED

11-20-2012, 01:52 PM

Well that solves that. I still can't get her any closer though. I have enough play to get her on the clutch teeth but it doesn't seem to wanna move. And I have her at an even plane with the motor. Bitch won't go in.

JumboBlack1.8

11-20-2012, 01:56 PM

Well, I know it's not standard protocol, but have you lined up all the holes and tried torquing down any of the fasteners? I had to do this to get mine flush. Crank still spins freely.

Also, when I was in the process of trying desperately to make the S4 flywheel fit without the trans spacer, I shaved down all of the webbing in the transmission bell-housing. So, my clutch and flywheel should have more clearance than others. But, your setup SHOULD spin freely regardless.

KraemerSXED

11-20-2012, 02:00 PM

I thought about it, but I don't wanna break anything. As in drop the motor on the floor. It has become unstable on it's stand after torquing down the flywheel. And you DID NOT use a spacer, correct? I just wanna confirm that.

JumboBlack1.8

11-20-2012, 05:44 PM

Nope. Didnt use the spacer after I bought the 30v clutch and flywheel. The engine would sit too far forward.

KraemerSXED

11-20-2012, 06:37 PM

Yeah I still can't get it on. I have no clue why she wont slide in. I have plenty of play and it wont line up with the teeth to go into the flywheel. I will try again tomorrow after work.

KraemerSXED

11-20-2012, 06:38 PM

I was thinking of setting the motor down onto the ground. But I am nervous about putting her on her pan because I know that can be bad. But I have seen people do it with these motors.

Nollywood

11-21-2012, 01:33 AM

I was thinking of setting the motor down onto the ground. But I am nervous about putting her on her pan because I know that can be bad. But I have seen people do it with these motors.

There's nothing wrong with putting the engine on the ground. It's dragging them in that position that's an issue.

KraemerSXED

11-28-2012, 05:59 PM

Down pipes came a few days ago, big thanks to Jumbo for pointing me towards Greg@Griffin, and a big thanks to Greg@Griffin.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121128_191430.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121128_191444.jpg

Wish I had a real update but I haven't done to much between Thanksgiving and bs graveyard shift. Tomorrow afternoon I will try again on the transmission.

KraemerSXED

12-01-2012, 12:54 PM

An update thats not an update and with more questions.

So it's around 30-40° out (F) and I borrowed my friends heater. Mmmmmm
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121130_111039.jpg

Then I started
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121130_113142.jpg

I am missing a lift point >.<
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121130_113717.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121130_115100.jpg

That's when I noticed the bearing and clutch were about 1-2mm off >.<
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121130_122231.jpg

So I re-adjusted.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121130_131301.jpg

And it was go time
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121130_134541.jpg

So that was yesterday, I never got it done. Today though was a great success, kind of. I got it in the bearing and locked with the clutch. Some bolts in...... I am still a few mm away, like 6-8mm. And the bolts are not helping with anything. And the top of the transmission keeps connecting bell housing to bell housing, god forbid the bottom would do that. I don't know why it's not doing it, or what it is doing. I have the 2 starter bolts in, one on the drivers side, and one in the bottom. I had the 2 in the top but removed them for a picture. Heres some pictures of how close it is.

Passenger Side
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121201_141958.jpg
Top
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121201_142009.jpg
Bottom
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121201_142023.jpg
Drivers Side
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121201_142043.jpg

Bolts, don't know where they go, trying to figure it out without breaking shit. Not fun. But I believe (referencing the picture bellow) number 1 goes in on the passenger side bottom, but I don't know how the hell to thread it in properly. I don't know where number 2 goes. And I believe number 3 bolts go in the top. Number 4 has 3 bolts but I put on in on the bottom. I was told by a shop that 3 go in the bottom. I only see one hole. What the fuck is going on.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121201_141942-1.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121201_141125-1.jpg

So can anyone share some insight on this? I am trying to get this attached today. If I have to backtrack and readjust everything then so be it I will. But if I can save it from where it's at let me know and please someone help me out with the bolts.

JumboBlack1.8

12-01-2012, 12:57 PM

Can you tell if the trans bell housing webbing is hitting the pressure plate? If so, try grinding some of that down, then reinstalling. I shaved down a good bit of mine when I was attempting to run the B5 S4 flywheel. With the 30v clutch setup, the transmission went on smoothly.

revolution337

12-01-2012, 01:09 PM

KraemerSXED

12-01-2012, 01:10 PM

Nollywood

12-01-2012, 01:34 PM

JumboBlack1.8

12-01-2012, 01:36 PM

I don't have anything to grind anything down. And I cannot tell if it is hitting. I think I am going to have to re adjust everything. Just unbolt and start over >.< And I am also doing the 30v set-up.

Jumbo are doing a S4 flywheel and 30v clutch? I thought you were doing both 30v.

No, I used the 30v flywheel and clutch. Go to Home Depot and buy one of their $30 grinders. Works great.

Oh so you got the engine and trans back together with the 30v package?

Yes sir. Got the engine and trans remounted, and installed the 4:11 rear diff and driveshaft. Everything is all neat and tidy. Just waiting on axles, before I put the car back on the ground. Then i'll mount the radiator. I'm having some difficulty finding a B6 S4 rad tho.

I'll post a pic in my thread.

Nollywood

12-01-2012, 01:37 PM

As the engine / tranny are right now - can you still rotate the crank?

KraemerSXED

12-01-2012, 01:57 PM

Make sure you don't have two locating dowels in the same location, on the trans and engine.

I can't see why your tranny won't just slide in. I fitted my clutch, and lined up the friction disc with the pilot bearing the way I've always done - by eye. I've never used a clutch alignment tool. And I fitted the trans by lifting it in place (my engine hoist hadn't been ordered at the time). And it want straight on, first time.

Something must be catching, or something's not lined up. It's tempting to use the bolts to pull both motor and trans together, but I wouldn't advise it. I would pull the trans off, and double check the lot.

I can't remember what your flywheel spec is - is it for the 30V or S4? And what's the stack height with the clutch bolted in place?

The only locating dowels are on the motor, one on each side. And a lot of this is a bit more difficult, I can't life the transmission because I had a Diskectomy (If you don't know what that is; http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/medical/IM04605) less then a year ago. So I can only life a little more then 50lbs these days. I am going to pull it all off, check it again and try to get her back on. Again. I felt it slide into the bearing and catch the clutch teeth. I just don't fucking get it.

KraemerSXED

12-01-2012, 01:57 PM

And how should I try to rotate the crank?

Nollywood

12-01-2012, 02:04 PM

And how should I try to rotate the crank?

Sorry about your diskectomy, it must be hell lifting, especially from low levels, hope you recover well.

You can rotate the crank, using a socket and bar.

KraemerSXED

12-01-2012, 02:09 PM

Thanks, it's been 10 months now I think.

So rotate it from the front then I am guessing. Do you want me to try this to see if it really did catch the clutch shaft?

Nollywood

12-01-2012, 02:13 PM

So rotate it from the front then I am guessing. Do you want me to try this to see if it really did catch the clutch shaft?

Exactly. If you engage a gear, you should be able to see at least 1 trans output shaft turn. And it will confirm the clutch cover isn't caught on something.

KraemerSXED

12-01-2012, 02:23 PM

Alright, I am gonna order some food and eat then give it a try.

KraemerSXED

12-01-2012, 05:14 PM

It all seems fine. Just pulled off the transmission and I don't think its hitting anything. if anything possibly the bottom left of the pp. Where the shallowest part of the bell housing is. But the stack hight of the flywheel clutch combo is 81 or 82 mm roughly.

KraemerSXED

12-01-2012, 06:00 PM

So I don't know if the PP did connect with the bell housing while fitting the transmission on or it connected when I just removed the transmission off because the transmission swung down upon removal.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121201_192403.jpg

There are matching scratches on the PP. It's tough to say which caused it. I did measure the length between the scratch and bell housing edge. It is about 84mm, maybe 85mm. So with a 82mm (flywheel clutch stack height) and 84mm measurement it is a close one to call.

Also, you can see the clutch gear did go in and pushed the lube back, I am like 85% sure of it.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121201_193720.jpg

I could be wrong, because there was some play once the bolts were removed. And when I really straddled the whole transmission and lifted while pushing (my GF was also holding the cherry picker in place) I swear I got it in a damn good amount but it pushed back out once I released pressure. I am thinking of lifting the motor up nice and high and getting a bunch of friends over and just lifting the transmission up onto the motor. Just a crazy idea.

KraemerSXED

12-01-2012, 07:03 PM

Hey now I just had a fucking great thought. Maybe the top of the bell housing was connecting because the bottom was hitting the PP. Because between the flywheel and engine there is a few mm's. enough for it to make up the gap so the PP COULD hit the bell housing. Fuck. So does this mean I have to grind down the bell housing? (face palm)

Nollywood

12-02-2012, 01:20 AM

Hmmm. Hard to say what made the marks on your pressure plate. My flywheel and clutch combo is 85,0 mm (01E). The stack height of my 12V flywheel flywheel clutch combo is 82,5 mm (01A).

KraemerSXED

12-02-2012, 08:38 AM

I know we have talked about not using the spacer but at this rate it seems plausible. I think I am going to clean up the clutch shaft and apply some new lube and try to put her on again and see if it moves it back meaning it engaged. I will pick up an angle grinder to if worst comes to worst. But it does make sense for the reason of the top bell housing connecting and the bottom staying 4-6mm away.

Jumbo did you take any picture of your bell housing?

GetBoosted84

12-03-2012, 04:23 AM

And I cannot tell if it is hitting.

One way I have been able to tell if things are hitting within a closed space like a bell housing is to use grease or soot. What I have done is to coat the question part in grease or use an oil based candle to create black soot on the question part then attempt to re-install it. Then you can check for transfer on the other piece. I typically use this method to check if manifolds are true (soot mainly) but I also used it on my RX-7 when I put a Chevy 350 into it and I was checking clearances of my clutch package within the bell housing (used grease for this).

Hope that helps.

Nollywood

12-03-2012, 04:52 AM

One way I have been able to tell if things are hitting within a closed space like a bell housing is to use grease or soot. What I have done is to coat the question part in grease or use an oil based candle to create black soot on the question part then attempt to re-install it. Then you can check for transfer on the other piece. I typically use this method to check if manifolds are true (soot mainly) but I also used it on my RX-7 when I put a Chevy 350 into it and I was checking clearances of my clutch package within the bell housing (used grease for this).

Hope that helps.

Kraemer posted a picture in the other V8 swap thread, and the image shows the original torque converter support bush still in place. So that will need to come out, otherwise the 01E input shaft will NOT go in. The hole in the bush is much smaller than the shaft.

JumboBlack1.8

12-03-2012, 06:17 AM

Kraemer posted a picture in the other V8 swap thread, and the image shows the original torque converter support bush still in place. So that will need to come out, otherwise the 01E input shaft will NOT go in. The hole in the bush is much smaller than the shaft.

Mine went in just fine with that bushing in place.

Nollywood

12-03-2012, 06:31 AM

Mine went in just fine with that bushing in place.

That's odd. Did you use the B5 S4 trans spacer?

JumboBlack1.8

12-03-2012, 01:36 PM

That's odd. Did you use the B5 S4 trans spacer?

Nope. No spacer on mine.

KraemerSXED

12-06-2012, 01:16 PM

Shes on.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121205_204529.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121205_203955.jpg

JumboBlack1.8

12-06-2012, 02:42 PM

What'd ya do?

034Motorsport

12-06-2012, 03:06 PM

Did you clearance anything? I've pulled and reattached many 01E transmissions (although just with a 2.7T or 2.8L attached), and none of them have ever gone back in smoothly. All it takes is a slight misalignment to miss the pilot bearing. You'll still get the clutch splines engaged to so degree.

KraemerSXED

12-06-2012, 03:23 PM

Spacer on the crank. Its in, just fine, crank spins.

Nollywood

12-06-2012, 03:23 PM

What'd ya do?

He still had the flexi plate spacer on the crank hub. He got rid of it, and the flywheel sat that much closer to the block.

revolution337

12-06-2012, 05:17 PM

Did you engage the trans and spin the crank, just to be sure everything's meshed together properly?

KraemerSXED

12-06-2012, 06:33 PM

Spacer on the crank. Its in, just fine, crank spins.

..

KraemerSXED

12-06-2012, 07:04 PM

Okay so I decided to do the pin outs next sine I lost my wallet somehow and can't but the heater core hoses I need. I didn't get far. I am doing the white plug first and the big red ones are easy to pop out of both plugs, if you get it right. But the pins are a little different.

A4 on left S6 on right
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121206_202051.jpg

I guess if I spent some time with it I could re use the old pin but new ones shouldn't cost much. Both thick red wires have different pins.

Also 2 of the plugs have this in them
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121206_204523.jpg

I pulled them out, but also curious if I should of kept them partially in? I ask because on 1 half of the A4 plug where the 2 red wires are the blue piece in it you just slightly move so the pins can be removed.

Otherwise the small wires are a bitch to unpin in the S6 plugs. The plugs cannot be taken apart slightly like the A4's so you need like a REALLY small tweezers or some special tool if there is one. Hopefully I can get more done tomorrow and over the weekend.

JumboBlack1.8

12-17-2012, 07:15 PM

Any updates on your progress with the harness? Very interested to hear your progress :)

KraemerSXED

12-19-2012, 07:46 AM

Well 13 days later I finally finished the white plug. I have been pretty lazy and working a lot. The S6 plug is a bitch. I just ripped it apart cause all the pins were getting stuck.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121218_142815.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121218_145400.jpg

In this picture you can see there are 7 pin slots. 1-7 from left to right. 2-5 all have a plastic piece that the pins fell in love with getting caught on. Something I could NOT see when trying to get the pins out.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121218_145352.jpg

Once I realized that it went smoothly and I only broke one pin.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121218_150717.jpg

Now it was time to Solder

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121218_152910.jpg

I hate soldering.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121219_073808.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121219_090531.jpg

DONE

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121219_092531.jpg

I will get to work on the others later. Just glad I got that one done.

AudiA4_20T

12-19-2012, 07:56 AM

good stuff!

KraemerSXED

12-19-2012, 11:56 AM

Also Jumbo if you haven't started yet or if you did and screwed up something. You can get extra "pins" from the dealership.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121208_160433.jpg

They do not sell the Pins separate and the big wires are a bitch to solder properly. And I did pick up the expensive ass hoses from the "stealership".

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121208_160117.jpg

Worth every penny if you ask me. I also picked up one of the breather hoses today from them for thankfully only $36. I still need a vacuum hose. The part number is: 077-133-817-B If someone could please help me with finding one it would be much appreciated.

JumboBlack1.8

12-19-2012, 01:41 PM

Thanks for the update, man! I haven't started yet, but I'll be heading home for Christmas. So, I'm planning to uninstall the wiring harness and work on the pins in the warmth of my basement. This thread has been tremendously helpful, thanks!

Also what hose are you looking for? I might be able to check my local parts source

revolution337

12-19-2012, 02:32 PM

I still need a vacuum hose. The part number is: 077-133-817-B If someone could please help me with finding one it would be much appreciated.

What/where is this hose for? I looked up that part number and I don't recall seeing it with my build.

KraemerSXED

12-19-2012, 04:28 PM

Okay Jumbo, I am going to save you my big headache with this one. I did the red plug next, and shit it was easy. So to make it "shit it was easy" do this.

KEEP THIS GREEN PIECE IN! IN I TELL YOU!
http://www.oocities.org/zoidberg_fan/scanart/prof.gif

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121206_204523.jpg

When that piece is in the plug it looks like this

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121219_155700.jpg

Push it SLIGHTLY out tell it's this far

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121219_155639.jpg

And BAM! those plugs come out so easy you would think there is butter in there. Well I learned my lesson. So don't fuck up like I did. Other wise I finished the White and Red plug (I soldered the middle violet/blue or black pin, if you want more details then ask). Now the black plug is the EXACT same. No modification required to my belief. But I have 1 wire where the colors don't match. I should be fine though.....

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121219_173606-1_zps0541f104.jpghttp://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121219_173646-1_zps880bc23b.jpg

The orange and tan plug are a damn mystery to me still. I will have to think on them before I touch them. And the hose I am talking about connects here:

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121219_121756.jpg

The dealership wants my left nut for that tube >.<

revolution337

12-19-2012, 04:35 PM

Oh that hose you need is for secondary air injection. I deleted this, which is why I didn't recall seeing the hose.

As for the connectors, most electrical connectors have a lock in them like you showed to keep the pins in. Once you remove the lock, they come out very easily. It also help to have terminal tools like this (http://www.lasertools.co.uk/news/lg/4328_Insitu.jpg). But you can use a bent paper clip in a pinch.

KraemerSXED

12-19-2012, 09:46 PM

How did you go about properly deleting it?

revolution337

12-20-2012, 09:43 AM

How did you go about properly deleting it?

Remove both combination valves from the back of each cylinder head, along with the pipe connecting them. Block off the SAI ports with something like this (http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-27t-sai-blockoff-plate-kit-secondary-air-injection-for-2827t-v6-belt-drive-40v-v8-p-21816.html) or similar (or you can make your own). Removed the air pump from the vehicle and associated hoses and vacuum lines. Then get the SAI coded out of your ECU to avoid a check engine light and to pass emission monitors. Most reputable tuning companies can accomplish this, or you can contact the member "k0mpresd" on here. He does the same stuff.

KraemerSXED

12-20-2012, 01:30 PM

Okay thanks. Also I don't have to worrie about emissions since MN has no emissions laws :)

flynnr

12-27-2012, 04:26 PM

As soon as you are done I want a ride!! I just got a gopro hero 3 black edition and I want to take full advantage of it lol.

KraemerSXED

12-28-2012, 02:33 PM

Haha, I want to take full advantage of your Go Pro also. But I might just have to take you up on that because I really do want some Go Pro footage. I am hoping to have the motor in tonight if everything works out nicely.

KraemerSXED

12-28-2012, 08:37 PM

So I decided to make up the motor mount spacers (I will do the transmission ones tomorrow). I bought 6 pucks just in case I fucked up, and of course I did on the first one haha. But I cut them down to 1/2" and the stud hole is almost dead center.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121228_202341.jpg

I also cut a hole for this thing.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121228_204444.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121228_204521.jpg

I am sure I am doing it right, unless the mounts stud can be adjusted there isn't enough room for a bolt to sit properly on the bottom. Maybe I should make them slightly smaller? Think you could chime in on this Revolution?

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121228_204542.jpg

Also the SAI block plates arrived today.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121228_160259.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121228_210423.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121228_212853.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121228_210437.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121228_213608.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121228_210451.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121228_213638.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121228_213410.jpg

Now in this next picture my question is, should I remove all the other vacuum hoses and all the stuff up front?

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121228_220408-1_zpsf2857aba.jpg

Or should I just stop and leave it here

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20121228_212931-1_zps37b7da17.jpg

Well that's what I have done today. Maybe I will finally bolt in the pedal assembly tonight. I want to get the motor in this weekend if possible. Also, I was looking at my PS Pump and I think I can call it bad. The wheel has a wobble to it when spinning. It's not to bad but I don't want the serpentine belt falling off because the wheel isn't keeping it in place. I will try to take some video of it later.

JumboBlack1.8

12-29-2012, 09:27 AM

For the engine spacers, I went with a larger diameter space on the bottom and a smaller one on top. This way my engine mount studs weren't overly short on any particular side

Pic
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee167/FattieJayMack/IMG_0125.jpg

For the vacuum lines, I left just about everything in tact, and I plan on maintaining the vacuum reservoir set ups. I made a few subtle changes, but I'll post a pic of what I did shortly.

Did you finish up the harness?

Good luck getting everything mounted, man. You're making great progress!

revolution337

12-29-2012, 11:32 AM

Like jumbo said, I left the necessary vacuum lines in place. I only removed the ones for the SAI system.

KraemerSXED

12-29-2012, 01:36 PM

Well Jumbo whats the height of your spacer? I was also thinking that maybe with the weight of a 450lb motor the spacer will get slightly smaller making enough space for the nut to get on the stud.

I have not finished the harness. The orange plug looks relatively similar to the A4 and I think I am just gonna double check what each wire is for and remove the unnecessary wires from the S6 plug. As for the Tan plug, off the top of my head the only wire you absolutely need is the black/red for the starter. I was just going to do these two plugs when the motor is in.

JumboBlack1.8

12-29-2012, 09:35 PM

My spacers come to about a 1/2" total, IIRC. Maybe a little under, not 100% sure.

KraemerSXED

01-01-2013, 07:09 PM

So I recieved a PM today from a dude in Canada doing this swap and the text said this;

"Hey for some reason I can't post on the forum page ur building ur motor on but I'm doing the same swap. Almost done with mine but I never had to use spacers for my motor mounts. I used the v8 mounts from 034 and the fit great. I also used the trans spacer and let me tell u its a pain getting the core to fit but I guess thats the price u pay to have a stock pedal feel. I went with the b7 rs4 clutch. The difference between our build is I started with s4 wiring. If u have questions feel free to ask. I'm just a little ahead of where u are. Motors in and I'm plumbing the radiator. Of do not get an a6 rad. Its too wide by an inch. I just had to get the s4 read and a 90 vanagon lower hose. Neways nice to meet u.

Chris"

Dude used no spacers, I would like to see pictures but he is having the same problem I was happening and cannot post in the build threads section (why the fuck is there restrictions for the build/projects section? I understand having them for classifieds but the builds/projects section?) Anyways.....

I did the pedals today since one of my friends finally came out to help me. At first I thought the clutch hardline went in here

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130101_164554.jpg

But then after I finally got the pedal assembly all the way in with only the top bolt in I realized it went here

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130101_174622-1.jpg

So the pedals are in but I do not know where this "soft" line goes, maybe the reservoir above the master cylinder?

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130101_205023.jpg

But anyways that is one more step finished that will go a lot faster in the future if I ever have to go through it again haha.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130101_205122.jpg

Sadly I wont have the motor in tonight, but shit happens. There is always next weekend.

JumboBlack1.8

04-14-2013, 09:44 AM

Any progress, bud?

I'm starting to tackle the engine, and using this thread as my resource. Where did you find the ATW wiring diagram?

KraemerSXED

06-03-2013, 05:12 AM

Hey dude, sorry bout the late reply but it has been very slow for me and I haven't been on this site in quite awhile. All the diagrams I used were in the C5 and B5 Bentley manuals I bought, I can look for my paper work and pass it on to you. What are you looking for specifically? (I can't remember what ATW is >.<).

Well here's my update, I haven't done to much.

Most recently I was working on the water pump and timing belt change, the whole thing has been... interesting.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130426_191857_zps0a0f363c.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130426_191857_zps0a0f363c.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130426_194503_zpsb5aff40a.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130426_194503_zpsb5aff40a.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130426_210711_zps14282636.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130426_210711_zps14282636.jpg.html)

Cleaned up the old gasket as much as I could.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130426_221304_zps420a6a34.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130426_221304_zps420a6a34.jpg.html)

Now when I picked up my tensioner and idler from Audi, the parts counter apparently thought that when I said '02 S6 that I meant 3.2l V6. So I was sold the wrong tensioner and 2 idlers. As you can see here (one idler is not pictured).

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130426_191418_zps7f8144ee.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130426_191418_zps7f8144ee.jpg.html)

If I would have been paying more attention this could have been caught ahead of time and saved me some time. Not like it mattered though because I ripped the head off one of the water pump bolts :D

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130426_222859_zpsb6535c41.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130426_222859_zpsb6535c41.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130514_165607_zps2c887a88.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130514_165607_zps2c887a88.jpg.html)

My first attempt at removal was a bolt extractor which did not work. First off, it would have been a delicate process but I screwed up right off the bat and didn't center is properly.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130429_113243_zpsc6d2f41a.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130429_113243_zpsc6d2f41a.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130514_1656260_zpsd87a3032.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130514_1656260_zpsd87a3032.jpg.html)

So I took an angle grinder to it and got it out with a vise grip. Apparently things like this happen all the time, that's what people told me. So the water pump is on.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130601_113915_zpse3f8389b.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130601_113915_zpse3f8389b.jpg.html)

I can't to the timing belt until I get the proper tool so thats gonna have to wait. Also did a lot of garage clean up and made a spot to set the motor for the time being and also put the PS Pump and AC condenser on.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130602_185257_zps32b4e7f9.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130602_185257_zps32b4e7f9.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130602_201403_zps9b4e79ae.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130602_201403_zps9b4e79ae.jpg.html)

So up next I am going to get the timing belt special tool to get the TB finished up and then I will be moving on to replace a plastic coolant pipe in the oil cooler with an aluminium one. Just have to buy a new oil cooler gasket.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130523_175132_zpsdffbd6fa.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130523_175132_zpsdffbd6fa.jpg.html)

And I STILL need an alternator. If anyone has one laying around from a 4.2 or the V6, either will bolt up and have enough amps for the A4, so I would be interested in purchasing from you. Other than that, most of the wiring is complete, I have to double check the plugs and hook up the brake and reverse lights. Still need a bigger radiator and I am going to have to get some wires off the old 1.8t, like an engine knock sensor and some of the negative end battery cable for the wiring harness. Kind of cut a few wires. Seems like a small list, hopefully more will get done this weekend.

rusky04

06-04-2013, 07:14 AM

i have a 2.7t alternator look in my 2.7 ad

KraemerSXED

06-14-2013, 08:31 PM

So I brought the motor to the shop today to have the timing reset. Before you try to explain how to do it, I know how, the shop told me. I am just not confident in my self with that part of the motor yet. Another time maybe. This is going to cost me a lot but I will NOT nuke this motor if I can help it, even if it costs me more than $500 to fix.

I guess I should explain what happened. When I pulled off the old timing belt I wasn't paying attention and being an idiot so then the cam gears spun and I have no idea what direction or how much, so the timing is being reset.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130614_144620_zpsd7b832b8.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130614_151657_zpsa6e00924.jpg

By the way, the trailer is a drop down and it is awesome. Really really nifty for loading a motor on and off.

I will have the motor back next week and we will see what happens from there.

KraemerSXED

06-24-2013, 11:28 AM

So I picked the motor up from the shop today and she looks mighty fine with the painted valve covers.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130624_110940_zpse0ef4f76.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130624_110940_zpse0ef4f76.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130624_111004_zps18db3bd5.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130624_111004_zps18db3bd5.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130624_111012_zps39e154fe.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130624_111012_zps39e154fe.jpg.html)

Since the timing is all done the next thing to do is to get the motor in the car. Still have to finish up some wiring jobs, wire up cruise control and reverse lights. And hopefully she will be one step away from turning over after the weekend. Also had to replace an adjuster pulley. $91 for this part, the used parts place for Audi parts just throws them away. >.<

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130624_124913_zps850d06b9.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130624_124913_zps850d06b9.jpg.html)

KraemerSXED

06-30-2013, 09:23 PM

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20130630_230325_zps838887ac.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20130630_230325_zps838887ac.jpg.html)

I am done for now until next weekend.

down_n_dapper

07-02-2013, 05:53 PM

Seriously good work :thumbup:
It's guys like you pioneering the V8 swap that will make it easier for me to do it in a few years!

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

KraemerSXED

08-16-2013, 04:07 PM

Well I was hoping to get her on the ground this weekend but that's not happening. My front axles wont fit into my hubs. I don't know all the technicalities but maybe going from a 1.8t tip quattro to 4.2l 6 speed quattro I am missing something specific here. I was told I am going to need S4 axles which I have. But there is no way they will fit in my hubs. Anybody know anything about this?

bhusted

08-16-2013, 04:39 PM

Are you using the S4 uprights or 1.8T uprights? I think that the 1.8T used smaller wheel bearings/hubs than the S4 or 2.8. Might be a good time to upgrade to S4 stuff.

KraemerSXED

08-16-2013, 04:50 PM

Yeah, just a min ago I found out the A4 hub is 100mm while the S4 is 108mm. So yeah I guess it is a good time to upgrade.

bhusted

08-16-2013, 05:38 PM

I think that only the 1.8 ones are smaller. I'm using aluminum A6 uprights with my stock 2.8 axles.

You may be able to swap the outer CV joints from your 1.8 axles to the S4 axles if you want to get it on the ground right now. I do have a pair of steel S4 uprights I'm trying to get rid of right now if you want to go that route. PM me if you're interested.

walky_talky20

09-28-2013, 09:47 AM

I was helping Kraemer with this via PM, but I thought it would be nice to post the discussion here for posterity:

100mm and 108mm are the sizes of the *inner* CV joints.
- 100mm for inner 5-speed quattro joints (all engines).
- 108mm for inner 6-speed quattro joints or inner 5-speed 1.8T Front Wheel Drive joints.

The problem is with the outers. These are usually described by wheel bearing size: 75mm or 82mm.
75mm = 1.8T outers 97 -> 2000 model years (quattro, FWD, 5-speed, or Automatic - doesn't matter )
82mm = 2.8/2.7T outers (all model years) or 1.8T 2001+

So you have a few options:
A - Get axles that work. Axles with 108mm inners and 75mm outers would be found on a 2000 Audi A4 1.8T FWD 5-speed car, for example.

B - Convert your axles to make them work. You *may* be able to swap the CV joints from your old axles onto your S4 axles. I am not 100% that the splines on the shaft are the same, but I think there's a pretty good chance. Anyway, you are the one with both sets of axles sitting next to each other, you tell me. lol

C - Convert your car to use S4 axles. There are a couple ways to do this. The cheapest would be to obtain front "uprights" (aka: wheel bearing housings or spindles) from a V6 A4. This would upgrade you to the larger outer wheel bearings that would then accept your S4 outer joints. Alternatively, you could use uprights from a B5 S4 - but you would also need the front brakes, so that's a more expensive option. You would also be unable to run 15 inch wheels and very limited in which 16 inch wheels you could run after doing that. You could even spring for aluminum uprights from the S4, but then you would also need to change 2 lower control arms. Even B6 A4 or C5 A6 uprights would work but you'd probably want coilovers for those options because wheel bearing position is different and I believe it will lower the front the car.

Kraemer responded that he want's to do "Option C", using the S4 axles he already has. So the sub-option (as it were) are as follows:

C-1: Obtain Steel Uprights from any 1996-2001 B5 A4 V6 car. This will retain the tiny factory brakes, and still allow you bolt up 15" wheels. $60 for the pair, and done. Yay.

C-2: Obtain Steel uprights from a 2000-2002 Audi S4 (aka B5 S4). This will require the larger S4 brakes as well, and limit you to 16"+ wheels (and only certain 16's at that). $100 for the pair of uprights. Maybe $150 for the brakes. Also allows you better alternative brake upgrades - Cayenne/Toureg brakes, B6 S4, B7 A4, etc, etc.

C-3: Aluminum Upright options. Same as C-2, but using the lighter aluminum uprights. Can be from B5 S4, C5 A6, B6 A4/S4, etc. Options other than the B5 S4 should only be used with coilovers because they locate the wheel bearing differently (ie: will change front ride height). Further, you will need to change 1 control arm on each side to suit the aluminum construction (different ball joint taper). This option gets expensive.

bhusted

09-28-2013, 10:24 AM

C-3: Aluminum Upright options. Same as C-2, but using the lighter aluminum uprights. Can be from B5 S4, C5 A6, B6 A4/S4, etc. Options other than the B5 S4 should only be used with coilovers because they locate the wheel bearing differently (ie: will change front ride height). Further, you will need to change 1 control arm on each side to suit the aluminum construction (different ball joint taper). This option gets expensive.

The aluminum uprights from the C5 A6 are no different from the B5 S4 units. I have the C5 uprights on my A4 with no change in ride height. The only difference to be concerned about is the track width. I discovered this late as my hubs are from a C5 V8 car and so the are another 5-10mm wider, so the wheels are pushed a little bit further outward. There is also a difference in the lower front ball joint as you mentioned.

KraemerSXED

09-28-2013, 11:28 AM

I opted for option C because you cannot switch out the CV joints.

walky_talky20

09-28-2013, 01:15 PM

The aluminum uprights from the C5 A6 are no different from the B5 S4 units. I have the C5 uprights on my A4 with no change in ride height. The only difference to be concerned about is the track width. I discovered this late as my hubs are from a C5 V8 car and so the are another 5-10mm wider, so the wheels are pushed a little bit further outward. There is also a difference in the lower front ball joint as you mentioned.

Good to know. I guess it's just the B6 A4 units which are different, then.

Kraemer, you mentioned buying new uprights at the dealer for $400 each. That's crazy. There are so many of these available in the yards, they crush the extras every day just so they have room to walk around.

KraemerSXED

11-20-2013, 10:06 AM

Been awhile since I have updated this...... here's my update, It's not to exciting.

First off I wanna share this beautiful image.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/motorcomparison_zps3ae5fb5b.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/motorcomparison_zps3ae5fb5b.jpg.html)

Alright so anyways, option C right? Well I do have the S4 spindles, so yes bigger brakes and new (to me) wheels and all that fun.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20131110_175737_zps0cd490d7.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20131110_175737_zps0cd490d7.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20131111_085720_zpsaf63321c.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20131111_085720_zpsaf63321c.jpg.html)

I love this comparison.

https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1380397_10151996189713126_1781396746_n.jpg

I ended up going with the ECS brake rotors and hawk pads.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20131111_115011_zps178e8670.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20131111_115011_zps178e8670.jpg.html)

And that's it really, interior is back together, most things are hooked up. I am picking up a new axle this weekend though, I am having an issue with the cv joint on one of my axles that is a mess I want GONE. So a new axle is the answer for me. I am picking it up on Friday and hopefully with some time (been doing 60hr work weeks lately so we'll see) I can set her on the ground after 13 months of "floating". As far as getting her running, I still need 4 O2 sensors and 2 engine knock sensors (already have the new intake gaskets) and some other fluids. I was planning on buying this stuff this weekend but with the recent axle purchase it might have to wait a little bit. O YEAH, I keep forgetting about this..... the radiator, still need to get one. I am going to be getting one from Be Cool that is 31x19x3 in total size. That is still subject to change until purchase but that's the one on my mind for the time being. Also if your wondering this is the CV joint issue.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20131117_085942_zps9262421c.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20131117_085942_zps9262421c.jpg.html)

The problem is all the balls are settled onto one side of the mesh ring. If I can settle them beck into the middle the rings fall level in the joint and then won't be budged. If I help them a long the balls fall back into the original position. I have messed with this joint for 3 months now. I am sick of it. I will post another update when I can.

bhusted

11-20-2013, 12:00 PM

CV joints are like one of those damn puzzles that only fit together 1 way. I think you'll be better off just getting a new axle.

Are you planning to run A/C? If you are, I think you may have some trouble with your radiator size. The GTI radiator I'm running is 30x17x2 and it was a tight squeeze getting the condenser on the front of the radiator.

KraemerSXED

11-20-2013, 06:47 PM

I will not be running AC so we'll see what happens.

pee quu

03-10-2014, 06:18 AM

I just started my swap also. S6 v8 and a 6 speed also and no ac :)

JumboBlack1.8

03-17-2014, 06:55 PM

Updates?

redline380

03-17-2014, 07:03 PM

he hasn't been on our local forum for a few months, so I doubt there are any.

pee quu

03-19-2014, 12:40 PM

Damn would really like to see if he has the car running

pee quu

04-04-2014, 07:25 AM

Figured Id post this question here. Might sound like its too simple but what if you just took a normal A6 4.2 harness and used it on the s6 motor with the s6 ECU? I have been cross referencing part numbers for all the sensors and such between an A6 and S6 motor and all the numbers are the same on both motors. As long as the S6 ecu is used with the S6 motor I cant see there being an issue. Im starting to think the S6 motor harness plugs are different then an A6 only so the plugs match the body harness on the S6. Granted the exhaust manifolds and intake manifold is a little different between the two motors those dont have any sensors in them.

Some of the items i found to be the same on both motors
-coils
-cam adjusters
-hall sensor
-oil pan level sender
-front 02s
-rear 02s
-spark plugs
-throttle body (if the a6 is AWN)
-knock sensor green
-oil pressure sender
-crank possession sender
-starter
-alternator

only thing I found to have a different part number where the fuel injector's and MAF. They should have the same plugs but if you use the s6 parts and the s6 ecu it should be good to go from what i have read. I may have missed a sensor or 2 but based off that and talking with an Audi tech it should work

If this has been brought up already then ignore my rambling.

KraemerSXED

04-28-2014, 11:03 AM

Well I recently picked up a few parts. ST Coils, S4 Rear Brakes, S4 Grill, and a Oil Cooler.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/Audi/20140424_220723_zpsjqlw4uvm.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/Audi/20140424_220723_zpsjqlw4uvm.jpg.html)

Not pictured is the S4 Sway Bars, S4 front bumper along with the whole body "kit". I also just purchased some BBS CH's. In a couple weeks I will be taking the car to my buddy's place to do some fab work and soon after she will be done.

JumboBlack1.8

04-28-2014, 11:40 AM

Good to see you're still plugging along.

KraemerSXED

04-28-2014, 11:46 AM

Always, this winter was just to brutal to do any work in the garage.

KraemerSXED

05-17-2014, 04:43 AM

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140517_060032_zpszzdgtbli.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140517_060032_zpszzdgtbli.jpg.html)

Next stop is my buddies place and hopefully the next update is of her running.

bhusted

05-17-2014, 05:19 PM

You're getting so close. Keep it up!

KraemerSXED

05-24-2014, 02:14 AM

A good amount of progress was made today, huge thanks to Dustin!

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140523_172513_zps2fq35llk.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140523_172513_zps2fq35llk.jpg.html)

other than wiring and sway bars we worked on adjusting the sub frame so that there wouldn't be a clearance issue. So here's what happened.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140523_183937_zpsasbjiptv.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140523_183937_zpsasbjiptv.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140523_193440_zpslgbv42t1.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140523_193440_zpslgbv42t1.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140523_193446_zpshqy15z0y.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140523_193446_zpshqy15z0y.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140523_194331_zpsh9sfi4r0.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140523_194331_zpsh9sfi4r0.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140523_211529_zpsoulmz43c.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140523_211529_zpsoulmz43c.jpg.html)

No more spacers needed and 0 clearance issues. Will be working on more tomorrow.

bhusted

05-24-2014, 05:50 AM

It's interesting that you notched the subframe like that. Are you certain you would have run into clearance issues if you had not? I haven't run into any issues with mine and did nothing to the subframe. Stock V8 mounts.

KraemerSXED

05-24-2014, 05:24 PM

Even with spacers it hit the sub frame once it settled. So we did this.

In other news, more wiring done, knock sensors replaced, brakes finished and bled, clutch bled and front and rear sway bars are now on. Hopefully Tuesday I can report back with more.

A4Rob

05-29-2014, 05:32 AM

I want to check this thing out sometime. Didn't I sell you an AC Condenser a few years ago?

KraemerSXED

05-30-2014, 11:37 AM

No, you sold me ac condenser fan. But if I can get it running this weekend I'm going to try and being it out to c&c.

Alright, so I'm getting a relay issue. No power to the neutral relay, we get 12 volts to all the pins except the one pin with two wires going out. The relay is number 53, position 13 on a 2000 a4 atw. Does anyone know what the issue could be?

KraemerSXED

05-31-2014, 03:03 AM

Okay we got the engine to finally turn over. The issue was the park/neutral relay since the car is going from auto to manual. The whole day was spent just doing this bit. But in the end my buddy figured it out, added some wiring to the relay/clutch/ground and now it works. The engine turns over just fine. Before the problem was the the relay wasn't reading the car in park or neutral so the relay wouldn't relay the power to the starter and thus the motor wouldn't crank. Next up I need to replace a hard fuel line from the fuel filter that is leaking, not sure why it's leaking yet. The radiator also turned out to be broken so I need a new radiator also. THEN I need to get passed the immobilizer, which means I can trailer the car to the dealer ship and they can program my keys or just get an ECU flash.

bhusted

05-31-2014, 06:48 AM

Have you actually started it? It should run for a couple of seconds before the immobilizer kills the engine.

Being a North American B5, your car will not have the transponder in the column for immobilizer. I don't think the dealership is going to be much help here. Best bet is going to be flashing the ECU to defeat the immobilizer. ddillinger was super helpful getting my ECU setup. You can read about defeating the immobilizer on the nefmoto forums.

wolfe2118

05-31-2014, 07:10 AM

If I'm not mistaken, you can buy a cheap emulator like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/VAG-Immo-immobiliser-immobilizer-emulator-VW-Audi-Seat-Skoda-A4-A6-Golf-etc-/170767915356
Best bet would be to get a hold of ddillinger and have him turn off the IMMO, he can do the SAI and rear O2 defeat as well.

Mad Cow

05-31-2014, 07:25 AM

No need for an immo emulator, that's just another thing that could potentially go wrong. Take a look on the nefmoto forums like others have said, I had to immo defeat my ECU since it came out of a Passat and it took all of 5 minutes. I used my generic blue kkl cable with the eeprom flashing software i found there. If you read out the eeprom contents someone like ddillenger would be able to make the changes and send the file back to you.

KraemerSXED

05-31-2014, 07:55 AM

bhusted

05-31-2014, 08:26 AM

I cannot start the car with my fuel spraying out so no we have not started it. I have already pm'd ddillinger.

I missed that about the leaking fuel.

KraemerSXED

06-22-2014, 05:21 AM

This update is just copied and pasted from the local forum, so some things might not make sense.

----

From the end of May.

----

Well on we got some more stuff done. All brakes are finally hooked up and bled, attached the rear sway bar and also did the engine knock sensors.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140524_120354_zpsbxq6begk.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140524_120354_zpsbxq6begk.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140524_120427_zpsml0vho1o.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140524_120427_zpsml0vho1o.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140524_134407_zpsrf0jvk8w.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140524_134407_zpsrf0jvk8w.jpg.html)

Took a minuet to figure out that the drivers side sensor bolts under the exhaust manifold. Otherwise it all went off without a hitch, I believe Dustin bled the clutch as well. I can't remember if he finished it up or not. I plan on going back tomorrow to get more done. Another day or 2 of good progress and she could be on the road. We might be able to start her up tomorrow if all goes well.

----

Recently

----

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140614_152341_zpsmmotpqya.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140614_152341_zpsmmotpqya.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140614_152336_zps1ex4lngz.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140614_152336_zps1ex4lngz.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140614_152330_zpsjkm4seog.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140614_152330_zpsjkm4seog.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140614_152454_zpsytmz4k1v.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140614_152454_zpsytmz4k1v.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140620_092401-1_zps97epevfn.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140620_092401-1_zps97epevfn.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/Screenshot_2014-06-20-19-35-10_zpszdynsvpe.png (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/Screenshot_2014-06-20-19-35-10_zpszdynsvpe.png.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/Screenshot_2014-06-20-19-35-24_zpsgmneymv5.png (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/Screenshot_2014-06-20-19-35-24_zpsgmneymv5.png.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/Screenshot_2014-06-20-19-34-51_zps6az9imdn.png (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/Screenshot_2014-06-20-19-34-51_zps6az9imdn.png.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/Screenshot_2014-06-20-19-34-59_zpsglgxtlli.png (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/Screenshot_2014-06-20-19-34-59_zpsglgxtlli.png.html)

Well it was time for an update. With the huge amounts of help from Dustin's the front end is complete, for the most part. Not pictured is the cooling set-up which is pretty neat if you ask me, but also a bit excessive. A new radiator set-up will happen sometime in the future, but for now it should work just fine. Oh yeah, the car starts, probably should of said something. First was a crank issue which was the park/neutral relay that wasn't reading the clutch. Dustin wired that up after the issue was fully understood and it cranked. Then we had an issue with it not starting which ended up being some wires that were ripped out of the crank sensor plug. From whoever originally pulled the motor from the S6. Once those were reconnected it started right up. Once it started Dustin called me, left a voice mail, probably the best voice mail I ever received hearing my car start. So I immediately jetted out the door for the hour long 1 way trek cause I could not believe my ears. I tell you when I got there and started her myself, I about fainted, sounded like a bat out of hell with just the down pipes. Had the stupidest smile on my face I am sure of it. That was like a week ago or so, never took a video of it with the down pipes. This weekend I bought some 3" mandrel bent aluminized stainless steel, Magnaflow muffler, and some tips. Dustin already had a Borla Resonator. Dropped it off Friday morning, Friday night he finished it up. I haven't heard the exhaust yet but he said it sounds amazing. If your wondering the exhaust goes from 2.5" down pipes-3"-2.5" twin exits-3.5" tips.

So that brings everyone up to speed, I will try to get a video when I can. Hopefully she will be on the road in a week or two, I need to get an exhaust heat shield for the drive shaft section.

bhusted

06-22-2014, 07:04 AM

Looking good. Which Magnaflow is that?

KraemerSXED

06-22-2014, 08:04 AM

I do not know, I can find out next time I am with the car.

KraemerSXED

06-28-2014, 01:14 PM

Drove her for the first time today, so awesome. The power is just incredible, just giving it a good push in 2nd will throw my head back.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140628_104247_zpsbaa1xvdz.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140628_104247_zpsbaa1xvdz.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140628_104315_zpspq5emn3l.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140628_104315_zpspq5emn3l.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140628_104326_zpsyvj9w9ph.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140628_104326_zpsyvj9w9ph.jpg.html)

Cooling set-up (half of it).

Hose along the front of the radiator.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140628_105015_zpsbfw7pdmu.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140628_105015_zpsbfw7pdmu.jpg.html)

Drivers side headlight location.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140628_105026_zpsoqusiso0.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140628_105026_zpsoqusiso0.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140628_105034_zpsgpe83cfw.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140628_105034_zpsgpe83cfw.jpg.html)

Passenger side.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140628_105059_zpslpnwelsl.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140628_105059_zpslpnwelsl.jpg.html)

Photobucket is being really slow so here is a facebook link to the video. Very windy, but you can still hear it.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152544037558126&l=3605682626384052949

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140628_122523_zps4niwtfhq.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140628_122523_zps4niwtfhq.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140628_122544_zps2putrxju.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140628_122544_zps2putrxju.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140628_122602_zpszwdej8iv.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140628_122602_zpszwdej8iv.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140628_122613_zpsosxs9vrz.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140628_122613_zpsosxs9vrz.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140628_122630_zpsgonwora2.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140628_122630_zpsgonwora2.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140628_123116_zps4usbo866.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140628_123116_zps4usbo866.jpg.html)

Things left to do; tabs, insurance, radiator fan, heat shield for drive shaft, and put on the S4 side skirts.

bhusted

06-28-2014, 03:55 PM

Looking good. Is that the stock 1.8T radiator?

KraemerSXED

06-28-2014, 07:24 PM

Yes it is.

NoLag28VAG

06-28-2014, 07:31 PM

Nice!

bhusted

06-28-2014, 09:32 PM

Yes it is.

Is there a reason that you decided not the flip the rad, rather than route both hoses to the driver's side?

KraemerSXED

06-29-2014, 05:36 AM

When I flipped the radiator the lower outlet went right into the alternator.

KraemerSXED

06-29-2014, 06:54 AM

http://www.jegs.com/i/Flex-A-Lite/400/398/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710588953&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=230006180000514821&cadevice=m&gclid=COXEx_ian78CFeFAMgodxFoA8g

ordered this fan today, should work nice.

wolfe2118

06-29-2014, 07:09 AM

I had problems keeping mine cool with the 1.8 radiator and a 16" fan.

KraemerSXED

06-29-2014, 09:00 AM

It's temporary.

bhusted

06-29-2014, 08:59 PM

It's temporary.

What do you plan to do for a permanent solution?

KraemerSXED

06-30-2014, 05:52 AM

Next summer hopefully I will have a BeCool custom radiator with properly angled inlet and outlets. Maybe a dual fan set-up. Will see what happens when it gets there. I am also hooking up a oil cooler eventually and that should help keep the temp down a little bit more.

KraemerSXED

07-04-2014, 04:56 PM

http://youtu.be/MQAtuYPQH4k

KraemerSXED

07-16-2014, 02:00 PM

Well I have more than 600 miles on her now and ready to do my 4th fill up. Car is running great, sounds great, and looks great. Amazing to be driving her like this since the ole 1.8t tip.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140705_142338_zpsn8pqxzxw.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140705_142338_zpsn8pqxzxw.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140705_142352_zpscelb9mty.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140705_142352_zpscelb9mty.jpg.html)

The fan cools her plenty. I only turn the fan on at stop lights or leave it on in the neighborhood and it never goes past halfway. Oil temp has hit 225° as a high but average on the highway is 210°/215° and my neighborhood average is 190°.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140708_120012_zpscsb4inxu.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140708_120012_zpscsb4inxu.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140708_114345_zpssgnooevd.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140708_114345_zpssgnooevd.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140706_204316-1_zpscuwb1ra0.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140706_204316-1_zpscuwb1ra0.jpg.html)

I am amazed that she can sit for 2 years and completely transform in every way possible and then come out and do over 600 miles with no issues, so far. Amazing journey, with plenty more to come in the future.

bhusted

07-16-2014, 02:28 PM

What fan is that? I guess since you're not running A/C, you've got a little bit more room to work with up front.

KraemerSXED

07-16-2014, 03:23 PM

http://www.jegs.com/i/Flex-A-Lite/400/398/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710588953&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=230006180000514821&cadevice=m&gclid=COXEx_ian78CFeFAMgodxFoA8g

Yeah, if I had the ac condenser in I don't think the fan would fit.

MetalMan

07-16-2014, 07:20 PM

Have you considered a thermostatic relay controller to automatically turn the fan on at a preset temperature? That's what I've got with my electric fan, don't ever have to worry about it that way.

KraemerSXED

07-16-2014, 08:40 PM

That's the current plan actually. Won't be doing it though until I'm back from vacation in August.

KraemerSXED

08-29-2014, 06:14 PM

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140829_194055_zpswlnmm3n4.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140829_194055_zpswlnmm3n4.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20140829_191738_zpsu9wrqazm.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20140829_191738_zpsu9wrqazm.jpg.html)

A bit low. The tech said it seems like the engine is waiting for something to kick in and it doesn't. My initial thought was maybe the SAI delete which still isn't coded into the ECU. Alex was quick to toss that possibility out the window. Him and Dustin are thinking that maybe it's the intake valve. When I get a chance I will check for codes. I will be going back for some more pulls and a proper video, my camera shut off after 27sec of recording. So no fun video.

I was pondering with the idea of getting an S8 intake manifold, one of the few things that is different between my motor and the more powerful S8 motor. I don't even know if it would bolt up but it's a thought as a possible upgrade.

S4NIK8

08-31-2014, 10:18 AM

So the 230 number is observed and the 270 is the "corrected" number? That does seem a little low, did you find any other codes? Any ignition timing logs?

HUNTERANGEL121

08-31-2014, 08:36 PM

Putting in the new pedals, did you have to calibrate the throttle?

KraemerSXED

09-01-2014, 09:25 AM

So the 230 number is observed and the 270 is the "corrected" number? That does seem a little low, did you find any other codes? Any ignition timing logs?

Is that an S6 or an A6 motor? If so, those numbers aren't too bad at all. 320 at the crank with 15% loss on the Shootout numbers. The dip in power may be due to the intake changeover being broken, or it might be due to timing pull, but considering the S6 was rated at 335hp I think you're right there.

Sam

And I asked him to explain the timing pulls.

See the two rich spikes that correspond to the dips in power on the dyno chart? If the ECU detects knock, it pulls timing back a couple degrees on the offending cylinders and dumps fuel in--you can see these as little puffs of black smoke out the tailpipe on the dyno. Logging ignition timing or per-cylinder correction factors would show this. Less timing = less power. After a knock event, the ECU will pull timing then try to feed it in over a period of time or engine cycles, but you'll see a dip on the dyno that may take a while to recover. Timing pull could be due to insufficient octane, high intake temps, or some kind of problem with the engine (air leak, bad sensor, etc.).

No idea on the intake changeover. Make sure all the mechanical parts are there and the vacuum lines are hooked up right. You might be able to manually activate it using the VAG-COM.

Sam

I still need to pull codes, so until then I don't know much.

I also want to add in (looking at the 231 graph) that the tech said a stock Evo or STI would make around 210. Just to use as grounds for judgement.

Putting in the new pedals, did you have to calibrate the throttle?

I can't remember but I don't think so, 85% sure it wasn't calibrated.

HUNTERANGEL121

09-01-2014, 09:27 AM

Oh lol.
So it opens 100% and closes all the way?

Nollywood

09-07-2014, 07:30 AM

That figure is pretty low...does the engine rev up to the redline - approx. 6500 rpm? And cut out at approx. 6750?

Make sure your VSS is connected, your maximum rpm will be limited otherwise.

A4Rob

09-07-2014, 03:44 PM

I totally missed your car at Madfurther. Next time I guess..

pee quu

10-08-2014, 11:42 AM

I really need to put a build thread together for my car after looking at all these lol

ray4624

10-09-2014, 06:24 PM

I really need to put a build thread together for my car after looking at all these lol

I assume you are MR PQ or whatever on instagram? god damn I love your car.

pee quu

10-12-2014, 07:22 PM

Haha yeah man lol. Ig is pretty much my build thread lol. Thanks man it's coming together

KraemerSXED

05-12-2015, 12:55 PM

Haven't updated this in awhile, or even posted for that matter. Well I have now done 7,000+ miles since completion and still no issues to report. I have switched out my interior for sport clothe and had a 2nd set of manifold ceramic coated by Swaintech.

Heres Before
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/Audi/DSCN1155.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/Audi/DSCN1155.jpg.html)http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/Audi/DSCN1152.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/Audi/DSCN1152.jpg.html)

Middle
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20150314_135631_zpsqedqwk3v.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20150314_135631_zpsqedqwk3v.jpg.html)

And after!
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20150314_183904_zpslyvrvf0q.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20150314_183904_zpslyvrvf0q.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20150403_125514_zpslqaajvxm.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20150403_125514_zpslqaajvxm.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20150403_125549_zpszt789t11.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20150403_125549_zpszt789t11.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20150403_125606_zps9qgjrppl.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20150403_125606_zps9qgjrppl.jpg.html)
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/IMG_3045_zps7kngczto.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/IMG_3045_zps7kngczto.jpg.html)

Here are the manifolds.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z252/nwyouth_forever/20150406_152507_zpsspckm2ip.jpg (http://s189.photobucket.com/user/nwyouth_forever/media/20150406_152507_zpsspckm2ip.jpg.html)