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ElSabio182
08-04-2012, 03:15 PM
Hello ‘Ziners…hope everyone had a productive Saturday! I finally got around to the S4 skirts that I picked up…I’ve got a couple quick questions about final mounting. I’ve searched through all the DIYs, and maybe this will help some people in the future.

I used the method of mounting the rear brackets, and using industrial-strength velcro along the door sills. So I didn’t use all the mounts/screws along the subframe…



First, the under-mount….anchoring the skirts to the bottom of the car, keeping them from sagging especially right in the middle:

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-04_17-53-05_78.jpg


The 4 round discs…I see where they’re supposed to go through the holes on the side-skirt underside. I can see the holes in the car frame where they’re supposed to fit. But they don’t seem to anchor into anything…nothing for the clips to hold on to. Do I have to take the rubberized stuff off the bottom of the car?

I’ve got those 2 brackets also in the picture…I believe they mount by drilling into the pinch-weld toward the front of the car, right? I’ll plan on doing that tomorrow to firm-up the front half.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-04_17-23-08_684.jpg


For what it’s worth…I’ve got a whole bunch of these cone-shaped things. But I think they’re only used when you do “the proper install” with the brackets, right? Also, none of the screws that came with the skirts seem to fit into them anyways.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-04_17-23-26_577.jpg




Second…these fender end-caps (or molding caps, whatever you call them). What’s the best way to mount them?

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-04_17-23-45_742.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-04_17-53-26_132.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-04_17-53-10_801.jpg


On a related note: not sure if there’s any value or need to leave the metal clips on the side-skirts. The front ones get cut off, right?

(this skirt came with the rear tab already broken off. You can see in a picture above that I've left the rear-tab on the other one)
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-04_17-22-48_973.jpg


(remaining front tab. You can see in a picture above that the front tab was removed from the side that I mounted)
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-04_17-22-55_820.jpg



Thanks boys! [wrench]

SIMPLXA4
08-04-2012, 05:50 PM
The front tab on the side skirt is what the front fender molding will mount too. Once you get it mounted onto that you can drill a small hole into the fender and put a screw through the molding and fender for extra support.

I hope that makes some sense

biketsai
08-04-2012, 05:52 PM
For the sag in the middle, yes you have to remove the little cap where there is a hole, then use one of the rounded clips you have to pop the middle piece into that.

I mounted those pieces you have with double sided tape. Checkout my DIY

melomandn
08-04-2012, 10:15 PM
If anyone doesnt have those little rounded clips (I didnt) I used self tapping bolts and fender washers that were bigger than the holes in the skirt. So far it has worked perfectly for me and it holds them up in there nice and tight.

ElSabio182
08-05-2012, 10:11 AM
Biketsai, your DIY was definitely one of the walkthroughs I referenced, very helpful. I guess I'm just missing something with regard to the round clips...they fit in the hole, but they don't secure/anchor to anything. Do I have to cut away the rubberized undercoating to expose some threads or something? Already tried to force one to stick, and only succeeded in breaking one of the little tabs...

(and on both sides of the car, the rubberized coating around a couple of those holes are pretty much turned to liquid...either something's leaking, or its just melting in the heat. A messy PITA either way)


If anyone doesnt have those little rounded clips (I didnt) I used self tapping bolts and fender washers that were bigger than the holes in the skirt. So far it has worked perfectly for me and it holds them up in there nice and tight.

That's the route i'm going to go if I can get these round plastic clips to work. Do you recall how long a screw you used, or how deep you needed to get into one of those holes for it to anchor?

Sweating my ass off out there today!

biketsai
08-05-2012, 10:53 AM
You have to remove the existing cap that is there if that makes sense. There should be an exposed hole at that point, I believe the clips just pop in or you can turn them to snap em in. It might just be easier using a self tapping screw, I would use a pretty short screw if I were you.

melomandn
08-05-2012, 10:44 PM
Yea the one I used was only an inch or an inch and a half, can't remember. It was nice and simple though, my only advice would be painting them black once you're done, otherwise they stick out once your under the car which drove me crazy

ElSabio182
08-06-2012, 11:42 AM
Yeah, I think the self-tapping screws and washers are the way I'm going to go. I'm still trying to figure out why I can't use the normal mount-points with the plastic discs...cutting away the rubber to access the empty "holes" where they should go, but they're still not catching. Whatever. If it can be fixed with 5 minutes using a screwdriver and $4 worth of hardware, I'm doing it.

I took a look, I'm thinking an inch-long screw would probably get it done. I don't THINK there's anything that I have to worry about drilling through, but shorter is good. And good call on painting them black. Nothing a few shots of Plasti-Dip can't fix.

And since the ship has sailed on one side's mounting points for the door trim, I'm just going to cut them all off and double-sided tape the cap pieces on. Ghetttooooooo style!

Before I button it up, I'm going to snap of a few pictures of what I'm looking at under the car, just for reference if it helps anyone in the future....

ElSabio182
08-13-2012, 09:49 PM
Ok, so quick bit of follow-up, just for posterity...and hopefully to show I'm not losing my mind....

So here are the mounting points (right?) They align nicely with the holes in the side-skirts...
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-11_19-23-08_587.jpg


And the clips fit pretty nicely...but they don't thread/grab on to anything. They just fall out. Deeper in the hole, it's just a rubber cap with nothing behind it.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-11_19-24-52_427.jpg


Anyways...nothing some self-tapping screws couldn't fix. I used 1-inch screws and fender washers, two on each side. I tried to use the existing holes in the sideskirts where possible, but I drilled to the side of those holes, since there wasn't anything to anchor to.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-13_18-47-53_354.jpg



Also, cut off the 4 sideskirt tabs that stuck up, and mounted the molding end-caps with doublesided tape. The only place where it looks a little suspect is the front-driver side. The fender took a hit from some idiot in a parking lot, and still isn't quite bent back perfectly. I might re-do this one, we'll see...
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-13_18-47-35_539.jpg


So anyways, here are some semi-crappy photos of the final product:

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-13_18-49-10_858.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-13_18-48-44_889.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-13_18-48-22_782.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-13_18-49-45_591.jpg


One thing learned...when going the velcro/double-sided tape method to secure the skirt to the lower molding, don't put the velcro too far onto the topside of the door sill...definitely can cause some binding of the door when closing. My doors require just a tad bit more force to close them now (again, the biggest issue on the driver door, given the slightly-bent fendor/door).

Last question...where can I find this last damn piece of fender molding?
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/my%20ride/2012-08-13_18-48-06_311.jpg


Until next time...[wrench]

walky_talky20
08-13-2012, 10:47 PM
I believe the part number is 8D0-854-861-A (for left side)
Make sure you're sitting down before you click the link.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/8D0_854_861_A/

ETKA is less than clear that this piece is different for the S4. There is simply the "satin black" version and the "primed" version. The satin black version would be for the A4 and has a different part number: 8D0-854-861-B

Coming up with that piece used, as a separate item would be pretty difficult I would think.

melomandn
08-13-2012, 11:13 PM
I also have the issue of the doors being harder to close and even had an issue of them getting stuck on the skirts when I tried to open them. Did a little grinding down on both the door and skirt which I hated, glad to see I wasn't the only one though.

ElSabio182
08-14-2012, 08:06 AM
I believe the part number is 8D0-854-861-A (for left side)
Make sure you're sitting down before you click the link.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/8D0_854_861_A/





http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/Funny%20pictures/tumblr_m4lidhFLaD1rn95k2o1_400.gif


http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/TheJazz7/Funny%20pictures/fthatshit.jpg


Damn, I could've SWORN I saw a website that had thes trim pieces more reasonably priced (like $20-ish for the part I'm looking for) but I foolishly forgot to bookmark it.

And melo, I'm getting a little bit of hang-up when I open the doors as well, that top part on the door sill moves when I push on it, although the skirt itself seems pretty firmly mounted. I might try some glue if I decide I'm done messing with it.

walky_talky20
08-14-2012, 08:40 AM
Indeed, these pieces used to be cheaper. Reference these threads for historic prices on that part number:
http://www.audiforums.com/forum/audi-a4-8/s4-sideskirts-5687/
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/286644-Cant-find-this-little-part-for-lower-trim

I'm guessing they are running out of all this stuff. Prices will probably go up until they are NLA.

gmx
08-14-2012, 08:54 AM
It's harder to close because you're using the A4 door sills. To top off the conversion, you need S4 door sills.

Poopie
08-14-2012, 09:55 PM
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc457/aarontrieu/55006822.jpg

i have s4 sills but used the 3M stick on molding. s4 lower door molding was too pricey. the nubs had to be ground down, but i am eventually going to shave and repaint the doors later. this will do for now. I like the look.

ElSabio182
08-15-2012, 07:23 AM
It's harder to close because you're using the A4 door sills. To top off the conversion, you need S4 door sills.

Yeeeah. But screw that noise :-)

Poopie
08-15-2012, 07:30 AM
its worth it if you can find a good deal on them. makes the install look so much cleaner.

Gumby
08-15-2012, 09:49 AM
where can s4 door sills be sourced from? i dont have any right now, and it kind of looks like ass...

biketsai
08-15-2012, 10:02 AM
where can s4 door sills be sourced from? i dont have any right now, and it kind of looks like ass...

I see them in the classifieds all of the time. Here and other Audi related forums.
Seeing that your car is black, why not just do the 3M trim like the guy posted above?

Gumby
08-15-2012, 10:14 AM
i was refering to the door sill with the aluminum "S4" plate when you open the door, not the lower door moldings. i like not having door moldings.

biketsai
08-15-2012, 10:52 AM
i was refering to the door sill with the aluminum "S4" plate when you open the door, not the lower door moldings. i like not having door moldings.

Totally misread your first post. I have seen them here and there in classified sections. The hard part is taking them off the old car without bending them.

walky_talky20
08-15-2012, 11:02 AM
Wow, those guys are pricey:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/8D0_853_492_D/ES11972/

OK, OK. I'll stop with the ridiculously overpriced links...

ElSabio182
08-15-2012, 01:10 PM
Yeah, $350 each...before paint. I'll just put a little more muscle into closing my door :-)

What I might do is carve a little more velcro off the door sill near the hinges...thats where it causes the most binding (obviously).

Poopie
08-15-2012, 01:37 PM
don't need to paint the door sills. you can get them in the classifies for like $100-125. you will definitely have to put a little work into making aluminum inserts straight again. people usually rip them off. or another idea is when you take your a4 sills off, take your time and try not to bend the a4 aluminum inserts that way if the s4's are mangled you can use the a4 inserts.

sweets4style
08-16-2012, 07:12 AM
The s4 sills are very easy to take off. Use a painter's 3 in 1 spatula like tool. Insert at one end. Use hammer to tap along the entire edge breaking teh double tape seal on the lower level of the door sills. Go across the entire sill. Be careful to not get lazy and have the tool get less then about 30 degrees so the rubber handle doesnt hit the sill and cause waves in the edges. After the lower deck of it is deglued pull up on one corner and remove the upper plate with your hands going one end to end and then repeat on the other side. No breaks, no bends. Easy as pie.

Thirdly the s4 has plastic clips mounted inside those holes that the a4 has sealed with a plastic grommet and seam sealer. You would have to get those clips and affix them to ur a4 holes to make it work 100 percent like factory. Not to mention the very pricey and seam sealed to the chassis brackets with studs mounted to them.

ElSabio182
08-16-2012, 07:50 AM
The s4 sills are very easy to take off. Use a painter's 3 in 1 spatula like tool. Insert at one end. Use hammer to tap along the entire edge breaking teh double tape seal on the lower level of the door sills. Go across the entire sill. Be careful to not get lazy and have the tool get less then about 30 degrees so the rubber handle doesnt hit the sill and cause waves in the edges. After the lower deck of it is deglued pull up on one corner and remove the upper plate with your hands going one end to end and then repeat on the other side. No breaks, no bends. Easy as pie.

Thirdly the s4 has plastic clips mounted inside those holes that the a4 has sealed with a plastic grommet and seam sealer. You would have to get those clips and affix them to ur a4 holes to make it work 100 percent like factory. Not to mention the very pricey and seam sealed to the chassis brackets with studs mounted to them.

Word. Makes sense on the clips inside the holes, I figured that must be the case. And yeah, the chassis bracket is certainly the "proper install technique" but considerably more $$$. This works, and the door really isn't that big an issue. I just occasionally have to tell people to close the door harder because it didn't latch. In terms of cost/benefit, this is the way to go.

-GS