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View Full Version : Some adjustment buttons of the Side View Mirrors not Working



woolveren
07-11-2012, 07:39 PM
Hi,

One month ago, I noticed that the passenger side view mirror of my car (98 Audi A4 1.8t) stopped responding in the vertical directions whenever I press the up and down control buttons. But it worked fine in the horizontal directions.

The driver side mirror was working fine at that time. But today, the driver side view mirror stopped responding completely. I cannot change the driver side mirror to any directions.

The only working buttons are for the passenger side mirror in horizontal directions.

Could this be a loose connection or fuse related issue?

Luis_Heineken
07-11-2012, 07:49 PM
Dont think so.

What car?

woolveren
07-11-2012, 08:00 PM
Dont think so.

What car?

Its a 98 Audi A4 1.8t.

Today the car was with the mechanic and he lubricated the front doors to get rid of the creaking sound when opening doors. The driver side mirror stopped working after that.

I don't think mechanic lubricating the front door has anything to do with mirror stopped responding?????????

woolveren
07-12-2012, 06:27 AM
any other thoughts.. ?

woolveren
07-13-2012, 06:42 AM
No replies yet.

Does anybody else know anything about this issue? :)

walky_talky20
07-13-2012, 11:02 AM
Hmm. Lubricating the doors could possibly have some effect. When lubing, you generally "exercise" the hinge a bit by fully opening and closing the door in rapid succession. This may have "finished off" some aging wires. It is common for them to break over time where the door harness flexes.

Otherwise, it sounds like the switch probably died. I would test the switch with a meter. Wait no...I hardly ever touch that switch. I would manually push the mirrors to where I want them and leave it alone. Yeah, that's probably what I would do. But nobody else drives my car, except perhaps my twin brother - who obviously has no need to move the mirrors either.

woolveren
07-13-2012, 11:10 AM
@ Walky_talky

I am going to take the door panel off tomorrow. How do I check the switches with the Mutimeter?I mean, is there any specific test pattern?

But I think what you said first is going to be true (happened two times in the past when you said something like this[:d]). The aging wires might have broken when stretching the doors.

If so, how would I repair those wires? Any DYI available?

walky_talky20
07-13-2012, 11:40 AM
I'm glad some of my previous ramblings were helpful to someone.

For checking the switch, you would simply test against a wiring diagram. Basically checking resistance across the various switches at the external contacts. I've never tested one, so I'd just go by the diagram. If you need a diagram and some guidance on the checks to do, I can help you out there - cuz I'm a nice guy like that.

The switch testing may be a little tedious if that is your first time doing something like that. It would probably be wise to do a check of the wire condition at the flex point. This should be pretty easy to do without removing the door panel or anything. You just pull back the rubber accordion thingy and inspect the wires.

If repair of the wires is necessary, you *can* just solder/tape/shrink wrap them up. That would be doing the repair exactly AT the flex point though. Obviously the repair will stiffen the wire at that point, making the flex even more acute than before. This will promote another failure later on. To do it right, you actually have to do TWO repairs. You have to cut out several inches of wire, and make your repair on *either side* of the flex point. This way the entire flex happens on a fresh piece of wire, and nowhere near a repair point. This promotes a lasting, but still cheap repair. Obviously the ideal solution is an entirely new door harness for around $125. But that's just silly money to fix some regular copper wires.

Here is a discussion of Audi door wire repair, with photos:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/396914-Drivers-Door-Wiring-Harness-Replacement

woolveren
07-13-2012, 11:50 AM
Thanks for the guidance. And yeah, your inputs on Cruise control not working, Engine starting issue while door is open, were all vital and correct. :)

If you could send me the wiring diagram for the switch, that would be great.

walky_talky20
07-13-2012, 11:58 AM
Woolvy, PM me your email address and I'll send that right over.

woolveren
07-14-2012, 10:02 AM
Woolvy, PM me your email address and I'll send that right over.

As you said, I first checked the wire condition at the flex point by pulling the rubber off. But I didn't find anything wrong there.


Then I took the door panel off and found that two of the wires to the connector were broken as shown below;

http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/8972/img1306cf.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/839/img1306cf.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)


The wiring diagram was really helpful to figure out the right connection points to the broken wires. So put the wires back and also applied some solder on top of it to avoid loose contacts.

Everything is good now. :)

Once again, Thanks a lot Walky_Talky20.

You helped me in lot of issues with the right guidance.

walky_talky20
07-14-2012, 10:34 AM
My pleasure. Glad it was a simple fix.

Where did the wires break, exactly? Right at a connector something? Can you determine what caused the failure there? This doesn't seem like a common failure point is all.

woolveren
07-14-2012, 12:27 PM
My pleasure. Glad it was a simple fix.

Where did the wires break, exactly? Right at a connector something? Can you determine what caused the failure there? This doesn't seem like a common failure point is all.

The wires were broken right at the place where it was crimped to the back of the connector.

The reason for the failure was probably an improper guiding of the wires while installing the door panel. I actually have a bigger front door speaker of 5.25" size and because of that putting back the door panel once it is taken out is not that easy. I've noticed this when I tried to put back the door panel once I installed the bigger speakers. If all the connectors are in position, then it's hard to put the door panel back. So what I used to do is, first insert lower half of the door panel and then connect some of the connectors.

Some months ago, I did some body work on the A-pillar and the door of the car, and I assume that the person who put the door panel back didn't realize that the wires need to be guided like above. :)