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Sean Webster
06-23-2012, 07:44 PM
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7130/7406855334_6c7b3a96e1_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/seanwebsterhd/7406855334/)
by Sean Webster Photo (http://www.flickr.com/people/seanwebsterhd/), on Flickr

I'm kinda bored with my 99.5 A4 1.8 AEB. I just bought it off a friend in the beginning of May 2012. At the moment it has a hybrid k04, 3" down pipe, silicone intake, manual boost gauge set to 12-13psi, unknown diverter valve, and a ghetto rigged exhaust lol. I am looking to build this to 400+ awhp on 93 octane (possibly E85 later on). Currently I am planning on what to do. I have been researching for a while now and this is where I am at so far.

I am going to build the block, get the BAT, and upgrade the clutch in about 3 weeks or less and build the head next year and possibly bore to 2.0l...

Right now I am thinking of ordering:

Turbo - Was looking at the PTE5858, yet I am now looking at comp turbo's. (Looking at this now: CT3-5858 Billet Turbo Charger (http://www.ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=308))
Manifold - LINK (http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-exhaust-manifold-18t-top-mount-longitudinal-p-17887.html)
Down pipe - LINK (http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-downpipe-spa-turbo-top-mount-p-19593.html)
Tial 38mm wastegate - LINK (http://www.034motorsport.com/turbochargers-and-accessories-wastegatesparts-tial-f38-wastegate-38mm-bolt-p-409.html)
Intake - ???
Cooling lines - ???
Gaskets - ???
Whatever else I need for it - ???
Anyone have suggestions on intercooler piping? I had 034 tubes (link (http://www.034motorsport.com/fabrication-intake-plumbing-intercooler-plumbing-kit-b5b6-audi-p-13141.html)), but they were too short. I need something else. My intercooler is 31.50L x 8.00H x 3.50D, 2.75" Inlet/Outlet. (link (http://www.maperformance.com/precision-600hp-air-to-air-intercooler.html))


I need help with choosing the setup now and what to go with it. I already have a Precision Turbo 600HP Front Mount Intercooler. Turbo wise, I was looking at the PTE5858 or GT3076R, but Comp turbos are being suggested more and they have a 5858. What should I look into? I don't know what is compatible really with what so any advice there would help. Like what housing, A/R, etc will work with the down pipe and manifold I'm looking at.

Engine: Overall here are the plans. All the check marks next to the items means I already have the part or it is installed.



Block:
$395.00 (http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-rod-set-scat-144mm-20mm-pin-cyl-p-805.html) - Scat Rods
$75.00 (http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-rod-bearing-set-vw-cyl-coated-p-709.html) - 034 Coated Rod Bearings
$135.00 (http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-main-stud-kit-vw-i4-including-18t-p-778.html) - ARP Main Stud Kit
$115.50 (http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-main-bearing-set-cyl-and-18t-coated-p-708.html) - 034 Coated Main Bearings
$139.95 (http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=6169_6170_6186_6188_6726_89 83&products_id=1253) - Goetze Piston Ring Set in 81mm, Set of 4 (OEM)
$ - Gaskets http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/Head_Gasket/


Head:
$228.00 (http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-head-stud-kit-arp-18t-p-18937.html) - ARP Head Stud Kit
$449.99 (http://www.intengineering.com/supertech-1-8t-20v-valve-spring-titanium-retainer-set.html) - Supertech Valve Spring/Retainer Set VW/Audi 1.8T 20v
$729.00 (http://uspmotorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_345_351_57&products_id=991) - Integrated Engineering 1.8T 20V Street Camshaft Set
$ - Gaskets http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/Head_Gasket/


Boost:
$1,487.00 (http://www.ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=308) - CT3-5858 Billet Turbo Charger
- 3" Inlet and 2" Outlet, .60 A/R
- CHRA: Triplex - Oil Only
- Turbine Housing: T3 Inlet/4 Bolt Outlet - .63 a/r
- V-Band Outlet on T3 NP Housing: 3" V-Band
- Polished Compressor Housing: Yes
- Comp Turbo Oil Feed Restrictor fitting: Yes
✓ $384.99 (http://www.maperformance.com/precision-600hp-air-to-air-intercooler.html) - Precision Turbo 600HP Front Mount Intercooler
$238.00 (http://www.034motorsport.com/turbochargers-and-accessories-wastegatesparts-tial-f38-wastegate-38mm-bolt-p-409.html) - Tial F38 Wastegate, 38mm 2-Bolt
$ - Cooling lines
$ - Gaskets
$ - Intercooler piping


Exhaust:
$395.00 (http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-exhaust-manifold-18t-top-mount-longitudinal-p-17887.html) - Exhaust Manifold, 1.8t Top Mount Longitudinal
$305.00 (http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-downpipe-spa-turbo-top-mount-p-19593.html) - Down pipe SPA Turbo Top Mount, 3"
$ - Custom 3" with dual tip Borla muffler


Fuel:
$ - Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
$ - 830cc Bosch EV-14 Injectors
✓ $100 - Walbro 255 inline Fuel Pump or $415 (http://www.ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=35&categoryId=212) - Audi A4/S4 044 Motorsport Drop In Fuel Pump
$ - Possibly meth


Electronics:
$799.95 (http://www.eurodyne.ca/prestashop/product.php?id_product=30) - Maestro Tuning Suite for Audi
$ - 2.0 FSI Coils ICM Delete
$ - Turbo Timer
$ - A/F Gauge
$ - Boost Gauge


Misc:
Sand and Polish intake manifold and valve cover
Port & Polish head
$ - Timing kit
✓ $20.00 (http://www.034motorsport.com/chassis-components-audi-40008090urq-poly-snubber-mount-p-53.html) - 034 Poly Snubber Mount
$95.00 (http://www.034motorsport.com/chassis-components-audi-a4s4a6s6-motor-mount-density-line-b5-b6-b7-c5-and-many-others-p-772.html) - 034 Motor Mount, Density Line, B5
$95.00 (http://www.034motorsport.com/chassis-components-audi-a4s4a6s6-motor-mount-density-line-b5-b6-b7-c5-and-many-others-p-772.html) - 034 Motor Mount, Density Line, B5
✓ $17.99 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/280788609406?item=280788609406&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr) - eBay catch can




Transmission:
$799.95 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Drivetrain/Clutch/ES5486/) - RA4 Clutch Conversion Kit - Stage 2
OR
$1,225 (http://www.ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=99&categoryId=4) - Clutch Masters 240mm Clutch/Flywheel Package
- FX400-6 Puck Ceramic
✓ $60.00 (http://www.034motorsport.com/chassis-components-audi-a4s4a6s6-transmission-mount-density-line-b5-p-773.html) - 034 Transmission Mount, Density Line, B5 - Density: Street Density
✓ $42.00 (http://www.034motorsport.com/chassis-components-audi-a4s4a6s6-transmission-mount-density-line-a4-18t-drivers-side-p-986.html) - 034 Transmission Mount, Density Line, A4 1.8t Drivers Side - Density: Street Density
✓ $24.00 (http://www.034motorsport.com/chassis-components-audi-40008090urq-mount-diff-carrier-pair-b4b5-p-18141.html) - 034 Mount, Diff Carrier Pair, B4/B5 - Density: Street Density
$239.00 (http://www.034motorsport.com/chassis-components-audi-a4s4a6s6-rear-diff-mount-poly-b4b5-chassis-p-1214.html) - APIKOL Rear Diff Mount, Poly, B4/B5 Chassis



Suspension:
✓ $725.00 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Suspension/Coilovers/ST/ES2129993/) - ST Coilovers from HPA Motorsport


Wheels:
✓ $500.00 - 18" x 9.5" et38 RS4 Rims


Brakes:
✓ $254.95 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/B5A8BBKNPAPLNKT/ES89/) - OE Big Brake Kit - Plain Rotors
✓ $124.95 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/ES1162/ES1162/) - Exact-Fit Stainless Steel Brake Lines
$ - S4 Rear Calipers and other crap


Maintenance:
✓ $249.95 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Lighting/Headlights/ES261515/) - Headlight Housings - Pair - 1 Piece Projector
✓ $9.98 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/PY21W-1156-BA15S-Silver-Chrome-Amber-Marker-Signal-Bulb-/380167800594?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5883c44712&vxp=mtr) - Signal lights (PY21W 1156 BA15S Amber)
✓ $6.33 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Engine/Cooling/Housing_-_Flanges/ES2913/) - Replace broken Cylinder Head Cooling Flange
✓ $2.59 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/058145757A/ES1591/) - Turbo Oil Line Return Gasket
✓ $3.29 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/058145757B/ES2093709/) - Turbo Oil Line Gasket - Upper
✓ $0.99 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/N0138514/ES9886/) - Turbo Oil Line Sealing Washer
✓ $25.95 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/3B0498201/ES252057/) - Inner C/V Joint Boot Kit
✓ $20.06 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/B5SGKIT/ES4769/) - ECS Front Seat Guide - Slide Kit
✓ $20.06 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/B5SGKIT/ES4769/) - ECS Front Seat Guide - Slide Kit
$ - Rear ABS Speed Sensor
$ - Rear Differential Housing Seals
$ - Front Passenger Tie Rod
$ - Rear driver door windows won't work
$ - Fix leak in trunk
$ - Fix leak in front driver side
$ - Fix hole in rear driver side
$ - Fix rear passenger axle


Feel free to throw me suggestions on parts, where to buy, tips or tricks, etc. I'd really appreciate it.

Can't wait to get her clean like some of the ones I've seen here already. :)

Random links for my use: Ignore.

Turbwhistle
06-23-2012, 07:56 PM
stern motor mounts, 034snub mount, trans, and dif mounts is what i would go with. I would look into clutch masters clutches and flywheels, best reviews imo, jhm trio short shifter.

Someone like(seerlah or mike hood) will cover the motor related bits, i lack knowledge there.


Also, i would look into finding a bbk, the brakes stock on our car can barely hold stock power, when you almost triple the power, i am sure you need more stoping power.

ianwpb
06-23-2012, 08:12 PM
Ringer-racing.com does motor/trans/snub/diff mount packages. Look into doing the A8/TT kit with some SS lines, nice pads, and better brake fluid. That's probably the cheapest way to go about getting better brakes.

Sean Webster
06-23-2012, 08:42 PM
stern motor mounts, 034snub mount, trans, and dif mounts is what i would go with. I would look into clutch masters clutches and flywheels, best reviews imo, jhm trio short shifter.

Someone like(seerlah or mike hood) will cover the motor related bits, i lack knowledge there.

Also, i would look into finding a bbk, the brakes stock on our car can barely hold stock power, when you almost triple the power, i am sure you need more stoping power.
Yea, I already have the tranny and diff mounts and the snub from 034 installed and plan on their motor mounts when i do the rebuild.

I was looking at the clutch masters, but how much would that set me back. I am kinda new to this too. I don't know what exactly I should look for with the clutch and I don't want to spend too much. lol

I'll look into that shifter as well. I think I may cut mine down a little first and see if that helps.


Ringer-racing.com does motor/trans/snub/diff mount packages. Look into doing the A8/TT kit with some SS lines, nice pads, and better brake fluid. That's probably the cheapest way to go about getting better brakes.

That is funny you mention the A8/TT kit and SS lines for the brakes, i have them for the front in a box next to me now. I am installing it this week.

I also added more info from my build thread on vortex. All the check marks next to the items means I already have the part or it is installed.

Thanks so far. I would really like some advice on the engine and turbo soon. :)

b6_quattro
06-23-2012, 09:17 PM
I would change the turbo. I was thinking of doing a precision 5857 and all the threads I looked at were great at first but then it seemed like they all had problems with the turbos. the pte turbos seem hit and miss with quality.

Sean Webster
06-23-2012, 09:33 PM
I would change the turbo. I was thinking of doing a precision 5857 and all the threads I looked at were great at first but then it seemed like they all had problems with the turbos. the pte turbos seem hit and miss with quality.

I was reading some people said things about it too, but that is with the older ones like the 5857 like you said. But then there are others who swear by them. I haven't heard anything about the 5858s tho since they are slightly newer in design. I still am undecided on it tho. I was also looking at the gt3076, but i would go with the Tseries for journal bearing. want to keep the turbo under $1k. And from what i have been reading the 5858 should spool better and give more power.

howardfootball
06-23-2012, 09:38 PM
I've seen some bad reports with Precision turbos. Comp turbos would be a good option, or better yet, look into a Borg Warner EFR or a new Garret GTX series turbo.

Sean Webster
06-24-2012, 12:03 AM
Damn, those are too much $ for what I was thinking. I had the idea of getting the precision 5858 journal bearing for $900 now, then possibly upgrade to a BB later on. Those other ball bearing turbos are more like $1500 or so.

Nateness
06-24-2012, 12:21 AM
If you're worried about the cost of a GTX vs the PTE, just wait until you see the cost of having the valve components installed into your head....

I strongly recommend that you ditch the inline Walbro and install the Bosch 044 kit from 034. The 044 will be a simple drop-in installation and will be more reliable and less noisy. You will also need to install a larger MAF and/or convert your ECU to the wide-band O2 AWM specs.

Sean Webster
06-24-2012, 12:27 AM
If you're worried about the cost of a GTX vs the PTE, just wait until you see the cost of having the valve components installed into your head.... Don't need to worry about that, my best friend is a mechanic. Most of my labor will be done by he and I for free. [:D]


I strongly recommend that you ditch the inline Walbro and install the Bosch 044 kit from 034. The 044 will be a simple drop-in installation and will be more reliable and less noisy.
I'll see how this one works, plus it is already here, I might as well use it till it gives issues.


You will also need to install a larger MAF and/or convert your ECU to the wide-band O2 AWM specs.
I was thinking of doing the larger MAF. Never heard anything on converting the ECU tho.

Seerlah
06-24-2012, 04:57 AM
You can get the same spec turbo from Com Turbo in a journal bearing CHRA for the same price. I personally would not run a Precision turbo. Many people have had no issued with them, but many others have.

-For block piston rings, use the Goetze ones.
-For block gaskets, use Victor Reinz on the cylinder head (ie valve cover) and something like Erling for the head gasket. Or if you want to fork up the dough, Cometic.
-For coolant and oil lines, make your own. Just know what you need and be sure not skimp out on fittings and lines. Summit Racing or Jegs would be a good place to shop. That is if you wanted to go that route. Or you can purchase pre-made lines from various companies.
-For your exhaust, it is all about preference. But to make it simple, you can use a 3" single exhaust made for the B5 S4. You just need to cut where the y-pipe is and add piping to the downpipe. Design will bolt right up to B5 A4 "Quattro" vehicles when it comes to hangers and proper bends.
-For meth injection, that is up to you
-For tuning, go with the Eurodyne Suite and have a tuner tweak the base file or play with it yourself.
-For motor mounts, either 034 density line or Stern
-For clutch, not quite sure if the RA4 can handle that power. Look into the Clutch Master units (ie 240mm FX400 6 puck).

Good luck!

Turbwhistle
06-24-2012, 08:11 AM
That is funny you mention the A8/TT kit and SS lines for the brakes, i have them for the front in a box next to me now. I am installing it this week.
Thanks so far. I would really like some advice on the engine and turbo soon. :)

The a8/tt brake upgrade is good, if your only runnign a tune and exhaust. But for a car making 400whp, it wont be sufficient. A proper bbk would be highly recommended. Just think, with the a8/tt upgrade you are still rocking tiny calipers, where b5 s4's with stock 200whp is running something much larger. Now you are going to be doubling the whp or an s4, while still running the tiny calipers off a b5 a4. I would either recommend buying b5 s4 uprights and brakes, then go with a better/more aggressive pad and ss lines. But i would still recommend something like wilwoods, alcon, brembo, or even a porshe set up. Just my .02

viceprp
06-24-2012, 08:40 AM
Turbo - Stay away from the JB PTE turbo's. I would go with a used Garrett and then upgrade it from Comp Turbo if it ever took a shit on you.

Fuel Pump - You will be limited with that pump. If you want to optimize this pump and go no larger then you should stick to a 28 series turbo. You WILL need to upgrade this. I would go drop in 044 pump and be done.

Fuel Inj - for a few bucks more, you should go 830cc. You dont want your fuel to be limited when making a 400whp goal. It's smart to be running am adjustable FPR.

Mounts - I really like my 034 SD motor and tranny mounts. Awesome feeling that will compliment a 400whp car.

Clutch: FX400 240mm (625ft-lb rating)

Software: Maestro!

ZimbutheMonkey
06-24-2012, 09:17 AM
Turbo = comp

Tuning = eurodyne (no need to convert to wideband, never heard that before)

Fueling = while an 044 drop in is a good choice, you can do the walboro inline in conjunction with the stock pump, shouldn't have any problems with a GT3076 size turbo. Just noisier, but then again so is a catless 3 in downpipe lol.

ianwpb
06-24-2012, 09:48 AM
The a8/tt brake upgrade is good, if your only runnign a tune and exhaust. But for a car making 400whp, it wont be sufficient. A proper bbk would be highly recommended. Just think, with the a8/tt upgrade you are still rocking tiny calipers, where b5 s4's with stock 200whp is running something much larger. Now you are going to be doubling the whp or an s4, while still running the tiny calipers off a b5 a4. I would either recommend buying b5 s4 uprights and brakes, then go with a better/more aggressive pad and ss lines. But i would still recommend something like wilwoods, alcon, brembo, or even a porshe set up. Just my .02

Just because you have 400Whp doesn't mean you're going from 160-0 all the time. Lol.

The Brake setup you'll need will depend on how you're going to use the vehicle really.. Autocross, road racing, really any sort of racing you'll probably want to go for a legit BBK. Street driving you should be just fine with A8/TT upgrade. I'm sure a lot of people use that for occasional autocrossing.

M-Hood
06-24-2012, 01:29 PM
Turbo = comp

Tuning = eurodyne (no need to convert to wideband, never heard that before)

Fueling = while an 044 drop in is a good choice, you can do the walboro inline in conjunction with the stock pump, shouldn't have any problems with a GT3076 size turbo. Just noisier, but then again so is a catless 3 in downpipe lol.


Walbro 255LPH high pressure pump will work just fine in the tank and is good for just under 600chp. Not really going to gain anything by doing an inline pump with the stock fuel pump, well other then a gain of having 1 more pump. Best to use a single pump setup if possible.

Nateness
06-24-2012, 02:14 PM
Walbro 255LPH high pressure pump will work just fine in the tank and is good for just under 600chp. Not really going to gain anything by doing an inline pump with the stock fuel pump, well other then a gain of having 1 more pump. Best to use a single pump setup if possible.

+1 Mike is spot on in regards to the inline pump providing minimal benefit.

Quick pump system basics:
1. Pumps piped in-line with eachother will have additive pressure output, but flow would be limited by the pump with the lowest flow capacity.

2. Pumps in parallel will have additive flow, but with pressure output will be limited by the pump with the weakest pressure output.

Sean Webster
06-24-2012, 04:40 PM
You can get the same spec turbo from Com Turbo in a journal bearing CHRA for the same price. I personally would not run a Precision turbo. Many people have had no issued with them, but many others have. Really? Also, what one should I look into? And what options for it? Thanks. :)


-For block piston rings, use the Goetze ones.
This? Which one? lol
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/Piston_Ring/ES2303/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/Piston_Ring/ES240520/


-For block gaskets, use Victor Reinz on the cylinder head (ie valve cover) and something like Erling for the head gasket. Or if you want to fork up the dough, Cometic.
Would this cover everything? http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/Gasket/ES1751/


-For coolant and oil lines, make your own. Just know what you need and be sure not skimp out on fittings and lines. Summit Racing or Jegs would be a good place to shop. That is if you wanted to go that route. Or you can purchase pre-made lines from various companies.
-For your exhaust, it is all about preference. But to make it simple, you can use a 3" single exhaust made for the B5 S4. You just need to cut where the y-pipe is and add piping to the downpipe. Design will bolt right up to B5 A4 "Quattro" vehicles when it comes to hangers and proper bends.
-For meth injection, that is up to you
-For tuning, go with the Eurodyne Suite and have a tuner tweak the base file or play with it yourself.
-For motor mounts, either 034 density line or Stern
-For clutch, not quite sure if the RA4 can handle that power. Look into the Clutch Master units (ie 240mm FX400 6 puck).

Good luck!
Thanks!


The a8/tt brake upgrade is good, if your only runnign a tune and exhaust. But for a car making 400whp, it wont be sufficient. A proper bbk would be highly recommended. Just think, with the a8/tt upgrade you are still rocking tiny calipers, where b5 s4's with stock 200whp is running something much larger. Now you are going to be doubling the whp or an s4, while still running the tiny calipers off a b5 a4. I would either recommend buying b5 s4 uprights and brakes, then go with a better/more aggressive pad and ss lines. But i would still recommend something like wilwoods, alcon, brembo, or even a porshe set up. Just my .02
lol, I'm fine with the A8/TT kit. + I'm doing S4 rears. I am not going to be track racing and dragging everyone all the time. haha. I'm just going to be doing pulls with people ranging from 0-120 or so every now and then. Even then I will usually have adequate space to brake.


Turbo - Stay away from the JB PTE turbo's. I would go with a used Garrett and then upgrade it from Comp Turbo if it ever took a shit on you. Yet again. lol, what one to look at?


Fuel Pump - You will be limited with that pump. If you want to optimize this pump and go no larger then you should stick to a 28 series turbo. You WILL need to upgrade this. I would go drop in 044 pump and be done.
like I said, I'll see how this goes. I may just do the 044 tho as my friend may use the walbro for himself.

Fuel Inj - for a few bucks more, you should go 830cc. You dont want your fuel to be limited when making a 400whp goal. It's smart to be running am adjustable FPR.
Really? 830? I thought that 630 could handle about 400 whp.


Mounts - I really like my 034 SD motor and tranny mounts. Awesome feeling that will compliment a 400whp car.
yea, so far driving has been a lot smoother, but idle is a lot rougher lol. I am going to actually increase idle 100-200rpm soon with my friend's VAGcom and everything should smooth out for me.

Clutch: FX400 240mm (625ft-lb rating)
how much? I looked quickly and I think I saw it going for ~$1200-$1400?!?


Software: Maestro!
Why tho? lol


Turbo = comp I really didn't want to spend 1500 on my first turbo. lol Is it really work it? I have read some very nice things on them. What one should I look at? I am planning on the top mount SPA manifold and the 034 down pipe for it. I am really confused about all the different specs on them, like the mani says it is a t3 connection, the down pipe needs a t31 connection. So what COMP turbo housing and what not will work with that set up? How much would that run me?


Tuning = eurodyne (no need to convert to wideband, never heard that before)
It is only 800 right? This is what I would need? http://www.eurodyne.ca/prestashop/product.php?id_product=30


Fueling = while an 044 drop in is a good choice, you can do the walboro inline in conjunction with the stock pump, shouldn't have any problems with a GT3076 size turbo. Just noisier, but then again so is a catless 3 in downpipe lol.
That is what I was thinking and my friend told me. :)


Just because you have 400Whp doesn't mean you're going from 160-0 all the time. Lol.

The Brake setup you'll need will depend on how you're going to use the vehicle really.. Autocross, road racing, really any sort of racing you'll probably want to go for a legit BBK. Street driving you should be just fine with A8/TT upgrade. I'm sure a lot of people use that for occasional autocrossing.THANK YOU! You actually understand!


Walbro 255LPH high pressure pump will work just fine in the tank and is good for just under 600chp. Not really going to gain anything by doing an inline pump with the stock fuel pump, well other then a gain of having 1 more pump. Best to use a single pump setup if possible.


+1 Mike is spot on in regards to the inline pump providing minimal benefit.

Quick pump system basics:
1. Pumps piped in-line with eachother will have additive pressure output, but flow would be limited by the pump with the lowest flow capacity.

2. Pumps in parallel will have additive flow, but with pressure output will be limited by the pump with the weakest pressure output.
We'll see about the pump and my friend's plans for it.

Thanks you so far everyone! :)

M-Hood
06-24-2012, 06:12 PM
Really? 830? I thought that 630 could handle about 400 whp.






I really didn't want to spend 1500 on my first turbo. lol Is it really work it? I have read some very nice things on them. What one should I look at? I am planning on the top mount SPA manifold and the 034 down pipe for it. I am really confused about all the different specs on them, like the mani says it is a t3 connection, the down pipe needs a t31 connection. So what COMP turbo housing and what not will work with that set up? How much would that run me?




T3(AKA T31) is the turbo inlet size, the down pipe connection to the housing can be a standard 4 bolt(2.5"), GT4 bolt (3") or 3" GT V-band. The Comp Turbo housings come in a standard 4 bolt or you can choose a V-band option in 3" or 2.5" depending on which turbo you go with.

Sounds like you want to run a CT3 or CT4, the CT3 is a T04E compressor housing with the 3" inlet while the CT4 is a T04S housing which is 4" inlet. You can get either of those in a Journal Bearing CHRA, the CT3 just under $1000 and the CT4 just under $1050. Those are with a T3 housing with a standard 4 bolt discharge, welded on 3" v-band discharge is an extra $58. You can get a 5858 in either the CT3 or CT4.

As for injectors, I would say 750cc injectors is about where you want to start. But you could run 830cc or even 1000cc if you plan on running a set of Bosch EV14's. Many A4 owners that end up running a 5858 size turbo end up just going with 1000cc injectors.

Seerlah
06-24-2012, 06:21 PM
I doubt it would make a difference when it comes to the piston rings you listed. But that is the price for just one piston. Get the entire set. And yes, that head gasket set from ECS will cover everything. But people have had troubles with Victor Reinz head gaskets when pushing a lot of air. Others have been just fine. That is why I suggested Erling or Cometic (best).

http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=6169_6170_6186_6188_6726_89 83&info=Goetze_058198151B.4_Piston_Ring_Set_in_81mm_S et_of_4_OEM&products_id=1253 (you can find them cheaper, but this is a company I buy parts from)

As for the Comp Turbo, you need to talk to an expert like Mike Hood. He is who I ask for much advice.

To touch on your other inquiries, 830cc injectors just leaves more room for whatever tune you want to run with. And if you want to go to a lrger turbo, the 830cc injectors will already be there. You can most def do 400whp with 630cc injectors, but you will be limited. In other words, just get larger ones to begin with so you don't need to worry about it later on if it arises. I mean with e85 the 630cc or 830cc injectors won't cut it, so...

And don't raise your idle. You need at least 5000 miles for break in period for your mounts. I am running 034 Street Density all around and idle is fine for me. But roughness differs from people's opinions, and I purchased mine used. They were already broken in.

The clutch kit is not the expensive part. It's the lightweight flywheel which is roughly $500 of the clutch cost. If you see a cheap clutch kit on the market, it more than likely uses the stock flywheel or does not come with a LWFW. And a 240mm is more expensive than a 228mm. But if you look in classified ads, you can peice together a clutch kit for cheap. That is how I did my 228 FX400 6 puck ($450 shipped for brand new clutch and pressure plate, $150 shipped for solid lwfw used, and $60 to get it resurfaced).

Example: http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=73867&title=1-8t-clutch-masters-fx200-240mm-package-needs-to-be-rebuild&cat=21

Simply ask for quote on pressure plate and 240mm flywheel, get them resurfaced, then shop around for just the clutch disc. Or ask for a quote for just the flywheel, and pick up the pressure plate and clutch disc brand new together.

As for tuning, you need to research the Eurodyne Suite. Other than a standalone there is really nothing better. I currently have a Eurodyne off the shelf tune, and will upgrade to the Suite once my engine is suitable for fine tuning...and a larger turbo.

Sean Webster
06-24-2012, 07:21 PM
T3(AKA T31) is the turbo inlet size, the down pipe connection to the housing can be a standard 4 bolt(2.5"), GT4 bolt (3") or 3" GT V-band. The Comp Turbo housings come in a standard 4 bolt or you can choose a V-band option in 3" or 2.5" depending on which turbo you go with.

Sounds like you want to run a CT3 or CT4, the CT3 is a T04E compressor housing with the 3" inlet while the CT4 is a T04S housing which is 4" inlet. You can get either of those in a Journal Bearing CHRA, the CT3 just under $1000 and the CT4 just under $1050. Those are with a T3 housing with a standard 4 bolt discharge, welded on 3" v-band discharge is an extra $58. You can get a 5858 in either the CT3 or CT4.
Alright. So how does this sound?

$1,057.00 (http://www.ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=308) - CT3-5858 Billet Turbo Charger
- Journal Bearing
- T3 Inlet/4 Bolt Outlet - .63 a/r
- 3" V-Band

+ This Exhaust Manifold, 1.8t Top Mount Longitudinal: http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-exhaust-manifold-18t-top-mount-longitudinal-p-17887.html
+ This Downpipe, SPA Turbo Top Mount, 3": www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-downpipe-spa-turbo-top-mount-p-19593.html
+ This Tial 38mm wastegate: http://www.maperformance.com/tial-38mm-wastegate.html...what one?
+ My intercooler...do you suggestions on intercooler piping? I have the two 034 tubes (link (http://www.034motorsport.com/fabrication-intake-plumbing-intercooler-plumbing-kit-b5b6-audi-p-13141.html)), but they are too short. I need something else. My intercooler is 31.50L x 8.00H x 3.50D, 2.75" Inlet/Outlet. (link (http://www.maperformance.com/precision-600hp-air-to-air-intercooler.html))

All things will fit right? Then I would just need to do the exhaust from the down pipe and some sort of intake with the MAF and I am done with the turbo/exhaust set upright?

I would not need this Vband Adapter, T31 4-bolt to 3" Vband: http://www.034motorsport.com/turbochargers-and-accessories-turbocharger-accessories-turbine-housing-adapters-vband-adapter-t31-bolt-to-vband-p-19594.html as The turbo already has the option for it correct?

And what about the cooling lines/kit?


As for injectors, I would say 750cc injectors is about where you want to start. But you could run 830cc or even 1000cc if you plan on running a set of Bosch EV14's. Many A4 owners that end up running a 5858 size turbo end up just going with 1000cc injectors.
Cool thanks. :) And I just saw your PM. I'll be talking with you more for sure. [:D]


I doubt it would make a difference when it comes to the piston rings you listed. But that is the price for just one piston. Get the entire set. And yes, that head gasket set from ECS will cover everything. But people have had troubles with Victor Reinz head gaskets when pushing a lot of air. Others have been just fine. That is why I suggested Erling or Cometic (best).

http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=6169_6170_6186_6188_6726_89 83&info=Goetze_058198151B.4_Piston_Ring_Set_in_81mm_S et_of_4_OEM&products_id=1253 (you can find them cheaper, but this is a company I buy parts from)
Thanks, I will also see if my buddy can order them from his shop for cheaper. [:)]


As for the Comp Turbo, you need to talk to an expert like Mike Hood. He is who I ask for much advice.
Definitely [:D]


To touch on your other inquiries, 830cc injectors just leaves more room for whatever tune you want to run with. And if you want to go to a lrger turbo, the 830cc injectors will already be there. You can most def do 400whp with 630cc injectors, but you will be limited. In other words, just get larger ones to begin with so you don't need to worry about it later on if it arises. I mean with e85 the 630cc or 830cc injectors won't cut it, so...
ok, I think i'll go 830 then...or 1000cc lol


And don't raise your idle. You need at least 5000 miles for break in period for your mounts. I am running 034 Street Density all around and idle is fine for me. But roughness differs from people's opinions, and I purchased mine used. They were already broken in.Ok, I'll give them some time. When they were first put in they were making the whole car a giant vibrating massager! haha


The clutch kit is not the expensive part. It's the lightweight flywheel which is roughly $500 of the clutch cost. If you see a cheap clutch kit on the market, it more than likely uses the stock flywheel or does not come with a LWFW. And a 240mm is more expensive than a 228mm. But if you look in classified ads, you can peice together a clutch kit for cheap. That is how I did my 228 FX400 6 puck ($450 shipped for brand new clutch and pressure plate, $150 shipped for solid lwfw used, and $60 to get it resurfaced).

Example: http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=73867&title=1-8t-clutch-masters-fx200-240mm-package-needs-to-be-rebuild&cat=21

Simply ask for quote on pressure plate and 240mm flywheel, get them resurfaced, then shop around for just the clutch disc. Or ask for a quote for just the flywheel, and pick up the pressure plate and clutch disc brand new together.
ok, sounds good.


As for tuning, you need to research the Eurodyne Suite. Other than a standalone there is really nothing better. I currently have a Eurodyne off the shelf tune, and will upgrade to the Suite once my engine is suitable for fine tuning...and a larger turbo.
Now, one thing...does this require me to have a laptop and tune it myself? I currently don't have one, nor have I ever thought about tuning my own car. Sounds like fun, but idk what I would be doing.

ianwpb
06-24-2012, 09:13 PM
Yeah, the 034 mounts will break in and become nice and smooth at idle. I bought mine with around 600 miles (I think) on them and they were a little rough at idle. About a 1000 miles later they are very smooth. There is an occasional slight vibration for about a 1/4 of a second every 10 seconds or so. I don't even notice it unless I'm looking for it. Granted from what I've read the V6 doesn't have the same vibration problems as the 1.8t, but still, it'll calm down soon enough.

I like where this thread is going.

Seerlah
06-24-2012, 09:33 PM
Now, one thing...does this require me to have a laptop and tune it myself? I currently don't have one, nor have I ever thought about tuning my own car. Sounds like fun, but idk what I would be doing.

Yes, it will require a laptop. I doubt you have owned your vehicle for that long, seeing how Vag Com which is a valuable tool for our vehicle requires a laptop. Just pick up a cheap one off ebay used. I picked up my laptop with Vag com for $500. I'll resell it later on when I upgrade to the suite, and get a smaller netbook.

Sean Webster
06-24-2012, 09:53 PM
Yeah, the 034 mounts will break in and become nice and smooth at idle. I bought mine with around 600 miles (I think) on them and they were a little rough at idle. About a 1000 miles later they are very smooth. There is an occasional slight vibration for about a 1/4 of a second every 10 seconds or so. I don't even notice it unless I'm looking for it. Granted from what I've read the V6 doesn't have the same vibration problems as the 1.8t, but still, it'll calm down soon enough.

I like where this thread is going.
Thanks, I think i have about 200 miles on them now...time to drive more eh? haha

Hopefully I'll have everything ordered for the turbo setup within the next week or so. Then I'll work on the block, clutch, and what ever else from there and leave the head for last.

I see you are from WPB, I'm right here in boca myself.


Yes, it will require a laptop. I doubt you have owned your vehicle for that long, seeing how Vag Com which is a valuable tool for our vehicle requires a laptop. Just pick up a cheap one off ebay used. I picked up my laptop with Vag com for $500. I'll resell it later on when I upgrade to the suite, and get a smaller netbook.
Well, my friend has a Vag com and a macbook with windows on it. I think we can use that. Does it just use a USB connection?

This is my first car I got about one and a half months ago. Everything is so new to me. I still have lots to learn.

ianwpb
06-24-2012, 10:08 PM
I see you are from WPB, I'm right here in boca myself..

Boca eh? That's cool. I live in Wellington now. Do you see a lot of B5's around there? I only know of 2 B5 S4's around here and 1 stock 1.8t in my old neighborhood. I don't see many at all.

Seerlah
06-24-2012, 10:12 PM
Wait a minute, so this is your first car as in...very first car? How old are you? Not to be stereotypical, but you don't want to spend your first couple years of driving with a 400whp vehicle. If you don't want my honest opinion, don't ask me why.

But yes, you can use your friend's laptop. It is simply software that you download, and the license to it will be in your name. You use a USB cable to upload/download data onto the computer and you change settings on your ECU via USB cable with Eurodyne Suite software. There is many things you can do with this software. You can exchange tunes with people on the fly, change tunes that are saved on the fly, change parameters on the fly (ie advance timing for specific ranges), etc. And if you find a Eurodyne dealer that is also a tuner, then you are in business. The base tune will already be good, but the tuner can then tweak it to get the most out of your setup. Any tuner can do it really.

Sean Webster
06-24-2012, 10:28 PM
Boca eh? That's cool. I live in Wellington now. Do you see a lot of B5's around there? I only know of 2 B5 S4's around here and 1 stock 1.8t in my old neighborhood. I don't see many at all.
I have only seen 1 silver S4 near me when I was going to a friends house, otherwise they are nearly non existent. My friend just bought a S4 tho, he is selling it for a profit now. :(

If you ever see a silver one with black rims and a white trunk and hood it is mine.


Wait a minute, so this is your first car as in...very first car? How old are you? Not to be stereotypical, but you don't want to spend your first couple years of driving with a 400whp vehicle. If you don't want my honest opinion, don't ask me why.Haha, yea about that...It is "my" very first car. As in I actually own it. But I have been driving for about 4-5 years now. I am 19 yrs old and just finished my freshman year at my university. I want more powa! [evilsmile]


But yes, you can use your friend's laptop. It is simply software that you download, and the license to it will be in your name. You use a USB cable to upload/download data onto the computer and you change settings on your ECU via USB cable with Eurodyne Suite software. There is many things you can do with this software. You can exchange tunes with people on the fly, change tunes that are saved on the fly, change parameters on the fly (ie advance timing for specific ranges), etc. And if you find a Eurodyne dealer that is also a tuner, then you are in business. The base tune will already be good, but the tuner can then tweak it to get the most out of your setup. Any tuner can do it really.
Sweet! Sounds good. There is a place near me called USP motorsport who have a drag S4, I wonder if they tune eurodyne...http://www.uspmotorsports.com/

Edit: They should be able to tune my car: http://www.eurodyne.ca/blog/index.php/2011/12/06/usp-motorsports-mk4-jetta-gli-w-ie-cams-on-the-dyno-making-601whp/

[:D]

Nateness
06-24-2012, 11:18 PM
If you plan to work with USP on tuning, I recommend that you coordinate with them on fuel hardware and MAF sizing before you pirchase anything. It may be cost effective to have USP provide a chip tune rather than you paying for the Eurodyne software license and then paying USP to tune anyways. Unless you want the ability to change tuning parameters on your own, this might be a cost saving option to consider.

Sean Webster
06-24-2012, 11:39 PM
If you plan to work with USP on tuning, I recommend that you coordinate with them on fuel hardware and MAF sizing before you pirchase anything. It may be cost effective to have USP provide a chip tune rather than you paying for the Eurodyne software license and then paying USP to tune anyways. Unless you want the ability to change tuning parameters on your own, this might be a cost saving option to consider.
Hmm, I'll have to see about that. I'll probably give them a call once I get everything setup.

Anyone have suggestions on intercooler piping? I have the two 034 tubes (link (http://www.034motorsport.com/fabrication-intake-plumbing-intercooler-plumbing-kit-b5b6-audi-p-13141.html)), but they are too short. I need something else. My intercooler is 31.50L x 8.00H x 3.50D, 2.75" Inlet/Outlet. (link (http://www.maperformance.com/precision-600hp-air-to-air-intercooler.html))

M-Hood
06-25-2012, 06:35 AM
Alright. So how does this sound?

$1,057.00 (http://www.ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=308) - CT3-5858 Billet Turbo Charger
- Journal Bearing
- T3 Inlet/4 Bolt Outlet - .63 a/r
- 3" V-Band

+ This Exhaust Manifold, 1.8t Top Mount Longitudinal: http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-exhaust-manifold-18t-top-mount-longitudinal-p-17887.html
+ This Downpipe, SPA Turbo Top Mount, 3": www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-downpipe-spa-turbo-top-mount-p-19593.html
+ This Tial 38mm wastegate: http://www.maperformance.com/tial-38mm-wastegate.html...what one?



That setup will work just fine if your on a budget. As for the WG, the manifold uses the older style 2 bolt 38mm wg. 034 has the 2 bolt Tial 38mm V-band wg on their site for $238. I know all of the V-band WG's from Tial now come with all of the springs which should mean the 2 bolt does too. So there shouldn't be a need to choose a spring rate when ordering a Tial WG.

http://www.034motorsport.com/turbochargers-and-accessories-wastegatesparts-tial-f38-wastegate-38mm-bolt-p-409.html

That is the WG that the 034 down pipe and SPA manifold are designed to use.

SGS
06-25-2012, 11:03 AM
Haha, yea about that...It is "my" very first car. As in I actually own it. But I have been driving for about 4-5 years now. I am 19 yrs old and just finished my freshman year at my university. I want more powa!


I would suggest in getting full coverage insturance to if you dont already have it...

ZimbutheMonkey
06-25-2012, 02:06 PM
Walbro 255LPH high pressure pump will work just fine in the tank and is good for just under 600chp. Not really going to gain anything by doing an inline pump with the stock fuel pump, well other then a gain of having 1 more pump. Best to use a single pump setup if possible.

I was thinking about doing an in-tank install, but after doing some research it looked like doing an in-tank install necessitated doing away with the OEM surge tank. As a result, people were having issues with fuel cut under 1/4 tank if they were cornering hard. Just seemed like a risk I didn't want to take, given that the inline install should meet my needs without disposing of the surge tank

M-Hood
06-25-2012, 04:27 PM
I was thinking about doing an in-tank install, but after doing some research it looked like doing an in-tank install necessitated doing away with the OEM surge tank. As a result, people were having issues with fuel cut under 1/4 tank if they were cornering hard. Just seemed like a risk I didn't want to take, given that the inline install should meet my needs without disposing of the surge tank

I have seen people have that issue on the B6/B7 cars, but not on the B5. The walbro will work work as a direct replacement of the stock pump. Maybe it is different for the FWD cars if the pump mounts differently.

I ran my walbro right in the stock basket, nothing else was changed. Most of the time I ran my car at 1/8th of a tank and never had it cut out even in a hard corner.

Sean Webster
06-25-2012, 05:06 PM
That setup will work just fine if your on a budget. As for the WG, the manifold uses the older style 2 bolt 38mm wg. 034 has the 2 bolt Tial 38mm V-band wg on their site for $238. I know all of the V-band WG's from Tial now come with all of the springs which should mean the 2 bolt does too. So there shouldn't be a need to choose a spring rate when ordering a Tial WG.

http://www.034motorsport.com/turbochargers-and-accessories-wastegatesparts-tial-f38-wastegate-38mm-bolt-p-409.html

That is the WG that the 034 down pipe and SPA manifold are designed to use.

Ok, thanks. :)

Do you happen to know what kind of piping I would need for the intercooler to turbo and TB? Like say x pieces of 45 degree, x pieces of 90 or 75 or 60 degree, etc? I may just look around ebay for something.


Haha, yea about that...It is "my" very first car. As in I actually own it. But I have been driving for about 4-5 years now. I am 19 yrs old and just finished my freshman year at my university. I want more powa!


I would suggest in getting full coverage insturance to if you dont already have it...
Pfft, no fault is good enough lol.


I was thinking about doing an in-tank install, but after doing some research it looked like doing an in-tank install necessitated doing away with the OEM surge tank. As a result, people were having issues with fuel cut under 1/4 tank if they were cornering hard. Just seemed like a risk I didn't want to take, given that the inline install should meet my needs without disposing of the surge tank


I have seen people have that issue on the B6/B7 cars, but not on the B5. The walbro will work work as a direct replacement of the stock pump. Maybe it is different for the FWD cars if the pump mounts differently.

I ran my walbro right in the stock basket, nothing else was changed. Most of the time I ran my car at 1/8th of a tank and never had it cut out even in a hard corner.
I think for now when it comes to the fuel pump we are just going to put the in line Walbro back in as the mounts are already there and is is "only" $100. If I end up with issues I'll grab the bosche.


Oh, and about journal vs CBB for the comp turbo...idk if i should just do CBB now, or wait till it needs a rebuild. Also, how long till it would need one? How long would it last and how much boost would it be able to take with the journal bearing? I'm kinda new to turbos. Shoot, technically I am new to learning things about cars. Everything I know now has been acquired over the last 2 months researching on my car lol.

Seerlah
06-25-2012, 05:18 PM
Do yourself and get a Comp Turbo from the jump. I wish I did, and had to pay $500 for a new CHRA last week (running a Garrett). I have seen people send in their CHRA time after time, before just saying f*ck it and moving onto a different brand turbo. But once again, there are also those who have never had an issue. Guess it's one of those luck of the draw things. Also, your intercooler is going to require your bumper to basically be non-existent. Check out this thread [;)].

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/490494-Donations!

Sean Webster
06-25-2012, 05:42 PM
Do yourself and get a Comp Turbo from the jump. I wish I did, and had to pay $500 for a new CHRA last week (running a Garrett). I have seen people send in their CHRA time after time, before just saying f*ck it and moving onto a different brand turbo. But once again, there are also those who have never had an issue. Guess it's one of those luck of the draw things. Damn, that sucks. Well, I am getting the comp. I just am not sure on whether or not to do journal bearing or CBB now.


Also, your intercooler is going to require your bumper to basically be non-existent. I know XD I saw this thread and the guy has the same one: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/381087-GabeRossi-s-Build-Thread/page5


Check out this thread [;)].

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/490494-Donations!

I already have my intercooler mounted, I just need the tubing, clamps, and cuplers. :(

http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2540886/width/600/height/400

ZimbutheMonkey
06-27-2012, 12:26 PM
Transient (i.e. part throttle and part throttle to full throttle response) will be better with the CBB, plus it can take a lot more abuse if you're running high, high boost. However if money's an issue, a journal bearing turbo will do you just fine. It's probably about 200-300 RPM spool time. So it all comes down to how much you can afford. But Comp makes a good turbo no matter how you cut it, so you'll be happy either way.

Maybe call them and ask what it would cost in the future if you wanted to upgrade. Or call them and ask what kind of a difference it will make. I've dealt with the guys at Comp before and they're really really knowledgeable. They're not some company who just took a Garrett design, slapped a billet compressor on it and called it their own. They actually do their design from the ground up as far as I can see.

Sean Webster
06-27-2012, 10:37 PM
Yea, my dad said he would contribute some $ and I can get the CBB turbo now. :D

I'm going to order the turbo setup and build the block and get the ECS RS4 clutch in about a week or two, then about a week later it should be done with tuning and all. The head will be built next year probably.

I think I read something recently on a MAF delete for the AEB's now? Is it possible? Because that would make the air intake a lot easier to do. My friend said the AEB doesn't come with a certain sensor or regulator or something that other engines do so that is why I need the MAF. Also, my friend is wondering if we can put the MAF on before the throttle body after the intercooler instead of on the intake pipe? Tho he thinks it might not work b/c it is meant for the air to be sucked past it and not pushed past it.

Also, he suggested to look into getting a low compression head gasket and run more advanced timing when I rebuild the block. What you think?

Oh and I have my EVAP system deleted, one friend (mechanic) said I should put my EVAP system back in and the other (previous owner) said to leave it out. What is your guy's say on this?

Thanks. [:)]

redline380
06-28-2012, 09:30 AM
Yea, my dad said he would contribute some $ and I can get the CBB turbo now. :D

I'm going to order the turbo setup and build the block and get the ECS RS4 clutch in about a week or two, then about a week later it should be done with tuning and all. The head will be built next year probably.

I think I read something recently on a MAF delete for the AEB's now? Is it possible? Because that would make the air intake a lot easier to do. My friend said the AEB doesn't come with a certain sensor or regulator or something that other engines do so that is why I need the MAF. Also, my friend is wondering if we can put the MAF on before the throttle body after the intercooler instead of on the intake pipe? Tho he thinks it might not work b/c it is meant for the air to be sucked past it and not pushed past it.

Also, he suggested to look into getting a low compression head gasket and run more advanced timing when I rebuild the block. What you think?

Oh and I have my EVAP system deleted, one friend (mechanic) said I should put my EVAP system back in and the other (previous owner) said to leave it out. What is your guy's say on this?

Thanks. [:)]
you need an maf because you dont have a map sensor. although a map sensor wont ever take the place of a maf sensor, that in combination of the oxygen sensor will get you close enough to the afr values you want. without an maf or a map sensor, you really couldnt run right.

as for low compression, just run lower comprerssion pistons if that what you want. i am not really aware of a low compression gasket.

just leave the evap system out if you want. unless of course you guys have emissions in florida. than youd probably need to have the purge valve plugged in still to pass emissions

M-Hood
06-28-2012, 04:19 PM
you need an maf because you dont have a map sensor. although a map sensor wont ever take the place of a maf sensor, that in combination of the oxygen sensor will get you close enough to the afr values you want. without an maf or a map sensor, you really couldnt run right.

as for low compression, just run lower comprerssion pistons if that what you want. i am not really aware of a low compression gasket.

just leave the evap system out if you want. unless of course you guys have emissions in florida. than youd probably need to have the purge valve plugged in still to pass emissions

There is only 1 option for doing MAFless on a ndbw car, that is a stand alone.

034Motorsport
06-28-2012, 04:53 PM
I have seen people have that issue on the B6/B7 cars, but not on the B5. The walbro will work work as a direct replacement of the stock pump. Maybe it is different for the FWD cars if the pump mounts differently.

I ran my walbro right in the stock basket, nothing else was changed. Most of the time I ran my car at 1/8th of a tank and never had it cut out even in a hard corner.

I agree with Mike here; there shouldn't be an issue of starvation on any in-tank pump option for the B5.

Both our B5 Quattro fuel pumps maintain all of the stock setup, except for the pre-filter with the Billet Fuel Pump kit. Our Billet kit reuses part of your stock basket, and a Bosch 044 pump already has a pre-filter on it. There is no integrated surge in the tank like there is on a B6 or B7.

Some people don't like losing the factory prefilter, so we have a "Drop-In" kit that uses a custom Audi basket that fits the Bosch 044 pump. But both the $385 Billet kit and the $425 Drop In kit offer the same performance and are easy to install.

A single 044 in the tank has the capability of pushing over 550whp with proper lines and such. No other pump is as widely used. Sure, you can use a Walbro or an Aeromotive, they can fit too, but if you want 400whp, that will be at the limit of the above pumps if you are running anything but a 3BAR fuel pressure regulator and gigantic injectors. 4BAR of fuel pressure + 30psi of boost is a huge amount of pressure any ANY pump but the Bosch 044 is going to fall on its face at that level.

arcartist12
07-25-2012, 03:22 PM
Well....hows it coming along for you so far?