Removing small hairline scratches in paint

[jursch2211]

Just as the title states how can I remove small hairline scratches from the paint? I have a ton of them all over my car (not sure where they came from) but some are short and others are quite long. I can run my fingernail across some and feel it while other scratches I can't. I currently have the Flex RO polisher and after polishing out the swirls I still have a ton of scratches. I tried using a yellow pad with meg105 but it didn't work. Do I need a rotary? My car is silver so it's hard to get photos of the scratches but I will try and get some.

[OTDetailer]

best get a paint gauge before any further polishing to remove anymore clear coat.

[jursch2211]

Those tend to be expensive at least the good ones. I'm going to take it to a local detailer and see what they have to say. Maybe they can shed some light on this weird phenomenon. If I get a chance to go to waterfest I may ask phil @ detailers domain if they would mind taking a look at the paint.

[OTDetailer]

sounds good! if I'm still in NJ by then...I'll go to waterfest and check it out for you :)

[jursch2211]

Well I don't think I will be able to get off work for that weekend. Looking at flying out and staying with the AZ group at the Heldrich hotel in NJ. Try and meet up with us if you're around. I did get to speak with a detailer today and his recommendation was to get a 2000 grit sandpaper and wetsand the scratches and then hit it with a rotary buffer. Not sure if I really want to wetsand my entire car

[Crucible35]

Do you have any pictures of the scratches that you;re refering to? May be easier for us to comment. I had swirls and scratches all over my car (Metor Grey) from bad Toronto winters (and lots of idiots [>_<]) did a ton of research, read write ups and watched vids from Phil at DD and Franki at OT Detailer (above), invested about $300 on a PC and some good polishes and sealers/waxes and now do it myself. It's a lot of work but worth every penny if you ask me.

[jursch2211]

I'll try and get some photos. It's just very difficult to see without the right light and angle. My phone camera can't pick them up

[jursch2211]

So after spending an hour taking pics of the paint I just can't seem to get one to show the scratches. It's only noticeable if you are within a foot of the car and actually looking for them at the right angle and with the correct lighting. Fluorescent lighting really makes it easy to spot. Seeing as that I'm a perfectionist i can see them easier than a random admirer. I think if I wetsand with 2000 grit sandpaper and then hit it up with a high speed buffer I might be able to get them out. I will post up my results.

[Epa7]

You might try Mr. Clean magic erasers. They seem to have a grit finer than 2000 but coarser than cutting compound. I used them successfully to remove scratches in my plastic door trim. They left a dull haze after removing the scratches which was completely removed with Griot's Machine Polish 3.

[TOGWT]

Most light surface marring is ~1.27 µ (0 .05 Mils) a surface scratch that can catch your fingernail is ~1.01 µ (~ 0.04 Mils) Using a medium abrasive polish and a rotary polisher will remove approximately ~ 2.5 - 3µ (~ 0. 98 – 0.12 Mil) from the paint surface. To remove a scratch you need to level the paint to its lowest part, so if a scratch is 1 µ that’s the amount of paint (and UV protection) you need to remove to eliminate it. Note: 25.4 µ (micron) = 1 Mil

There is ultra violet (UV) protection all the way through the paint, but the majority of it migrates to the top of cross-linked clear coat along with the thinner solvents and particles, the paint is also less dense (softer) below this level. Therefore removing clear coat ultra violet protection is not a linear process; by removing a small percentage of the clear coat paint tends to remove a larger percentage of the ultra violet (UV) inhibitors.

The following are the maximum allowable clear coat reductions the major USA car manufacturers will allow before the paint warranty becomes void; Chrysler- 0.5 Mil (12µ) Ford – 0.3 Mil (7.5 µ) GM – 0.5 Mil (12µ) (Source - Automotive International)

With a clear coat thickness of ~49µ and knowing that most of the ultra violet protection is in the top 50% (~24.5µ); therefore, limiting UV protection removal to ~25 % means that approximately 6.125µ< can e removed before the ultra violet protection is compromised. Once you remove too much clear coat you'll have no paint UV protection other than what you apply with a LSP (providing it contains UV protection.

Be cognizant that ultra violet protection removal is not a liner process; and the first paint renovation will remove the most UV protection, therefore the above are probably conservative estimates. Two variables need to be established; how much clear coat is available and how much clear coat can be removed without compromising the paint systems long-term durability / paint warranty

A paint thickness reading of > 4 Mil ( 100 µ (Microns) is reasonably safe for polishing. 3 – 3.5 Mil ( 80-90 µ) I wouldn't use anything stronger than > 2000 grit polish, 2.75 – 3.0 Mil (70-80 µ) > 2500 grit polish and under 2.75 Mil (70 µ) use a glaze. The readings tend to vary from panel to panel and are thinner towards the panel edge.


“Clear Coat Thickness and UV Protection Removed by Polishing” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/136818-clear-coat-uv-protection-removal.html#

[jursch2211]

Wow that is a lot of info. I guess my hunt for a detail shop with a paint thickness meter begins. Is it acceptable to ask them for a paint thickness reading without actually using them for their service? I'm not even sure how to go about asking if they can measure my paint. Does something like this cost a fee similar to bringing in your car to a mechanic to scan for CEL codes?