Rear Brake Replacement, VAG-COM.. This is not DIY?? Please Advise

[EN1GMA]

Hey, Im new to the Audizine and Audi's in general. I was told that the Rear pads Need to be done at Audi and cannot be DIY, any advice??

Please [tt]

[Seerlah]

Why can't they?

[EN1GMA]

I wa told that the calipers require electronic recalibration?

[EN1GMA]

The tool is only 60 and I can doo the work myself, I just can't if I have to VAG

[odachimaster]

have never really heard of that with a MKI TT as I have not done that when we changed them.... good so far on 45K on them and still alive......

[EN1GMA]

have never really heard of that with a MKI TT as I have not done that when we changed them.... good so far on 45K on them and still alive......

thank god, lol... Do you have a short how to? Like any advice on how not to get air in the line, and stuff like that? I just want to be a careful as possible :) but i dont want to give the 600 to the dealer, thanks man!!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Stueyturn]

You don't need Vagcom to do the rear brakes.
You do however need a brake rewind tool to push the piston back on the rear calipers however you don't for the fronts. DO NOT attempt to just push it back without using a rewind tool.
Also there is no need to undo the bleed screws to do this but make sure you take off the cap on the fluid reservoir.

Stu :)

[EN1GMA]

Thanks guys, so if I buy the tool from ecs and turn slow, with the cap off of the reservoir, I shouldn't get any air in the lines??

Anybody recommend a set of pads and rotors, and a dealer??




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Stueyturn]

Thanks guys, so if I buy the tool from ecs and turn slow, with the cap off of the reservoir, I shouldn't get any air in the lines??

Anybody recommend a set of pads and rotors, and a dealer??




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Correct on the cap off and you'll get no air in.

As for the pads and rotors I'm not sure as I'm in Scotland. I would suggest you joining the uk TT forum for advice as its great for advice. www.ttforum.co.uk we've got a lot of US members on there aswell who could possibly direct you further :)

Stu.

[Stueyturn]

You also need to disconnect the handbrake cable from the caliper when you're doing the job.

Stu

[EN1GMA]

Man u guys are the most helpful, ever, for real...

So is this the process?

1) jack car
2) remove wheel
3) pull ebrake connector
3a) open brake reservoir
4) dismantle caliper
5) replace rotor
6) remove old pads
7) rewind pistons
8) place new pads
9) reassemble caliper
9a) cap reservoir
10) lower car

TEST!


Sorry I just don't want to get this wrong, bought the car and got the extended warranty and don't want to screw something up... And I also need some help with the bushings for the struts, any advice?







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Stueyturn]

Hi, there's a how to here.

http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44401

In this one the guy uses the bleed nipple but I have done this myself without doing it as have countless others. You just need to watch that the fluid doesn't spill over into the engine bay when you rewind the piston.

Hope this helps,

Stu.

[EN1GMA]

Thanks man thats pretty concise, what did u use to support the caliper? I like ur idea of opening the reservoir, all of ur help from both u and seerlah has been a load of help :) on all of my topics




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Stueyturn]

It's a pleasure :) nice to help others!

As for the caliper, you may find it helps to bolt it back on loosely when the rotor is removed as it gives good support when winding back the piston. If you just mean in general then tie it up to something so it doesn't hang from the brake hose whilst you're working.

Stu.