(mec's) - GTX2867R Big Turbo Build

[mec]

Hey AZiners,

I will be building my engine within the next two months in preparation for a GTX2867R install.

Here is what it boils down to

Engine:
Ferrea Intake and exhaust valves
Integrated engineering valve springs, retainers, and valve stem seals
ARP head bolts
83.5mm 9.2:1 Wossner Forged pistons
Integrated Engineering's Tuscan I beam rods with rifle drilling
1.8t Oil system conversion
Balance shaft delete
Mocal 16 row oil cooler upgrade.
Dowel Pinned crankshaft
ARP main studs
Fluidampr
Apikol snub mount

Transmission:
CM Billet Steel LWFW
VAST Stage 3 clutch (uh oh!)
JHM 4:1 center Differential

Drivetrain:
Apikol Rear Dif mount

Suspension:
Koni FSD/ Eibach Pro suspension kit
Genuine RS4 Rear Sway bar

Aesthetics:

DTM quad tip bumper with blacked out trunk strip
Three Piece Carbon Fiber rear spoiler
Carbon wrapped B pillars
Bixenon retrofit.
Integrated Engineering Red Anodized valve cover
Performance Parameter's display
Custom Oil Pressure gauge retrofit

Power:

Maestro tuning
rs4 injectors
Gtx2867 w/ tubular manifold
Synapse Synchronic Diverter valve
600Hp Garrett Intercooler with custom 2.5" piping
Custom 3" exhaust to dual 2.5" exhaust with beveled quad tips
Custom Vent to atmosphere setup
Boost Manager plus soon to be for sale!

Wheels:

Blizzak lm-60's 235/45/17 on stock 17" 5 dual spokes
Continental DWS 245/35/19 on 19" Avant Guarde M310





-Martin

[mec]

Got an estimate for $440 to do:

Polishing the crank
surfacing the head
hot tank cleaning
bore and hone
spin balance.

Seems like a pretty good deal. Will get pictures up soon. Engine build most likely in July once work subsides a bit.

[audi8844]

GLWB! Glad to see a few people trying out these GTX kits. Very interested to see some dynos on the 2.0

[DRAKLORE]

Sound
Solid, can't wait [up]

[okswerve16]

Got an estimate for $440 to do:

Polishing the crank
surfacing the head
hot tank cleaning
bore and hone
spin balance.

Seems like a pretty good deal. Will get pictures up soon. Engine build most likely in July once work subsides a bit.

If you plan on doing main studs, you will have to add line honing to that, And you will also have to modify the windage tray since the arp studs are taller then the stock bolts

[drumnjuny]

i can't wait for this ahhh

[Operator]

Colorado is stepping up!!!!!!

[mec]

I did see that you cut holes for the studs in your build, I will probably end up doing the same, maybe just get the machine shop to cut them out. I'll make sure to add line honing, I did not know that would be necessary.

I need to compile a list of seals, sealant, gaskets, bolts, etc that are not reusable and have to be replaced. So far all I can think of is:

Rod Bearings - included in IE rod kit.
Main Bearings - dealer
Main Studs - ARP
Head Studs - ARP
Valve cover gasket and sealant - dealer
Head gasket - dealer
Clutch bolts - VAST clutch kit
Sensor wheel bolts - dealership
Sensor wheel itself?????????
Diamond disc, center bolt, and crankshaft seal?????
drive plate bolts
sealing flange sealant
crank serpentine belt pulley bolts
serpentine idler roller bolt.
oil intake pipe o-ring
oil chain sprocket bolt
oil level thermal sensor seal
oil drain plug washer
oil pan sealant.
Anything else in the oil pan or balance shaft assembly I am forgetting?

This is just a basic list off the top of my head, but I want to go through ELSA or bentley and check out all the different bits that I need to buy so that I am not making 50 trips to the dealership. Feel free to add on to the list or correct me if I am wrong.


Thanks everyone.

[mec]

I'm finally unpacked and back at home, been busy with work but I will posts some pics up soon!

Here's my mod list so far

Continental Extreme Contact DWS 245/35/19
Avant Garde M310 19x8.5
Koni FSD kit with Eibach springs
Stock exhaust with 034 HFC, RS4 catback was a fail, though If i can't sell it I might get a shop to make it fit.
Black grille, fillerplate, and inner headlights also CC'd
Poorly applied Clearbra on the front bumper lol. DIY
034 Catch can
Stage 1 HPFP and 145 Pressure regulator valve from hpfpupgrade.com
APR tuned
Podi boost gauge
2010 A3 RNSE retrofit
Dice DUO-103-AVW ipod kit
35ish% tint
S4 rear valence for future quad tip or rs4 oval tip exhaust.
carbon fiber three piece spoiler

Also just picked up a wiper stalk to retrofit the trip computer.

So far no good news on the turbo kit, but engine work is happening july-august.

[mec]

Finally had time to snap some pictures! Unwashed but it will get a decent cleaning once I unpack my detailing equipment.http://img.tapatalk.com/a6935997-68ce-f9cc.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/a6935997-68dc-105b.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/a6935997-68e6-3ee9.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/a6935997-68f3-0ee0.jpg

[CorneliusRox]

I'm excited! What's the progress on the block?

[mec]

The block is still in the car lol. I have picked out the parts I need for the engine, and I am waiting to hear back on a list of non reusable parts like stretch bolts, seals, gaskets, etc. I want to have mostly everything that I will need before starting because I have only a week to tear the engine out and put it back in. If I do need anything else, there's a VW dealership 2 miles from my house in Denver so that will help quite a bit.

[jsandor91]

what intercooler are you going with? i'm hoping the treadstone tr6 will be enough because i already bought the piping for it lol.
i'm saving for this turbo as well and will probably run stock internals on a mild tune for a while

[Operator]

what intercooler are you going with? i'm hoping the treadstone tr6 will be enough because i already bought the piping for it lol.
i'm saving for this turbo as well and will probably run stock internals on a mild tune for a while

You need to look at a TR10 or TR11 if you plan to stay with Treadstone, and go with a GTX kit.

[jsandor91]

tr11 looks promising. say goodbye to my crash bar lol.

[Operator]

Well just about any FMIC that can handle what a GTX, EFR, or Precision can throw out will require crash bar modification. I know alot of people love AWE, but I'd go a different route If I planned to push 350+ awhp. And the 10, and 11 look stout enough for such demands, if you are going custom.

[jsandor91]

Well just about any FMIC that can handle what a GTX, EFR, or Precision can throw out will require crash bar modification. I know alot of people love AWE, but I'd go a different route If I planned to push 350+ awhp. And the 10, and 11 look stout enough for such demands, if you are going custom.


Awe is out of my budget for a intercooler. i will most likely go with a tr10 or tr11 and keep my custom piping. almost bought the tr6 today thanks operator. [up]
curious to see what intercooler the op is using.

[slimmj0k3r]

I need to compile a list of seals, sealant, gaskets, bolts, etc that are not reusable and have to be replaced. So far all I can think of is:

Rod Bearings - included in IE rod kit.
Main Bearings - dealer
Main Studs - ARP
Head Studs - ARP
Valve cover gasket and sealant - dealer
Head gasket - dealer
Clutch bolts - VAST clutch kit
Sensor wheel bolts - dealership
Sensor wheel itself?????????
Diamond disc, center bolt, and crankshaft seal?????
drive plate bolts
sealing flange sealant
crank serpentine belt pulley bolts
serpentine idler roller bolt.
oil intake pipe o-ring
oil chain sprocket bolt
oil level thermal sensor seal
oil drain plug washer
oil pan sealant.
Anything else in the oil pan or balance shaft assembly I am forgetting?

This is just a basic list off the top of my head, but I want to go through ELSA or bentley and check out all the different bits that I need to buy so that I am not making 50 trips to the dealership. Feel free to add on to the list or correct me if I am wrong.

Go through the Bentley to compile an accurate list, I couldn't tell you what i replaced off the top of my head but much of it is on your list.

[mec]

Lol this build is not going to happen anytime soon, getting a hold of an engine has been an obnoxious process, two people have gone back on our deals, and three just keep wasting time, it seems they are not interested. So until I can get a reasonably priced engine this build is on hold.

[okswerve16]

what is reasonably priced lol?

[Operator]

See if you can find out where Seth's old one went.

[mec]

I first started out assuming I would get a 2700 used recertified engine. Then I found a few engines for 1000 that was when the first person backed out on me. Then I decided I'll part an engine together so I found the short block for 650 and then started looking for a head, the guy then decided that the deal was only good for one night, and told me it was no good after 6pm, some random nonsense, then I went through a few other engines at 1000, and finally found an engine in south Carolina for 250!!!! I told the guy I would absolutely buy it fe him, i told him send me the shipping dimensions and I'll arrange shipping and pay you tomorrow, he didn't call forthe next three days and then someone else snagged it. I'm kinda sick of engine hunting, plus with arjuns recent failure in kind of just thinking of forgetting about this whole project and just getting a nicer car.

[Firefox250]

^^I agree with you on that one. Golf R, S4?

[Flexcj5]

Sent you an engine related PM.

[Sales@RAI]

This is going to be a very fun car. [up]

[mec]

Lol I was hoping Arjun would have his car back so I could check it out and be definitely set but it looks like I've got an engine lined up Just need to figure out a good shipping method and I can finally start :)

[Flexcj5]

Were you able to get the one from the link I sent you?

[mec]

No, the guy was kind of an asshole lol. I ended up finding a cheaper engine, I believe he wanted 1000 for his, now I need to find a valve cover and variable valve chain housing for the engine I just bought! For $450, I was all over it lol. The Engine will ship the 18th and arrive probably a week later :)

[s4930]

No, the guy was kind of an asshole lol. I ended up finding a cheaper engine, I believe he wanted 1000 for his, now I need to find a valve cover and variable valve chain housing for the engine I just bought! For $450, I was all over it lol. The Engine will ship the 18th and arrive probably a week later :)

I better be included in this build!!!!

[ericpaulyoung]

Where are you guys finding your engines?? As soon as I have my K04 running smoothly, I am going to buy a spare and setup the project in the garage. That way I have a nice reliable fast daily for the next several months while I build the motor.

- Eric

[AudiA4_20T]

Where are you guys finding your engines?? As soon as I have my K04 running smoothly, I am going to buy a spare and setup the project in the garage. That way I have a nice reliable fast daily for the next several months while I build the motor.

- Eric

For all people that will read this in the future, this is the BEST way to do it. The cost of a spare easily outweighs the complications that can pop up when building engines

[Sales@RAI]

For all people that will read this in the future, this is the BEST way to do it. The cost of a spare easily outweighs the complications that can pop up when building engines

precisely so.

[drumnjuny]

precisely so.

been preaching this to martin all week

[mec]

Should have the spare engine on Monday!!!! Ordered my vast s3 clutch and rs4 injectors also :) rs4 rsb and engine stand too but I forgot all my tools at home so I can't do anything today :/

[Dimitris_Kon]

Spare engine? Clever! Nice thread BTW and nice color [:D]



Dimitris

[ericpaulyoung]

I am getting the next build together in my head right now. So far, I am looking at a 2.2L, with head work, and an RAI EFR 6758 kit. Nice thing is that with the Maestro, and since I am using the same ECU, I won't have to buy any more tunes FOREVER, hahahahahaha!! :-)
- Eric

[mec]

Spare engine? Clever! Nice thread BTW and nice color [:D]



Dimitris

Thanks I've been following your thread, it was one of the first I read on AZ when I joined, quite impressive :)

I am getting the next build together in my head right now. So far, I am looking at a 2.2L, with head work, and an RAI EFR 6758 kit. Nice thing is that with the Maestro, and since I am using the same ECU, I won't have to buy any more tunes FOREVER, hahahahahaha!! :-)
- Eric

I've been looking into a 2.2 aswell. have sourced a few of the parts but I'm still researching it a bit more.

[slimmj0k3r]

excited for this buikd

[Sales@RAI]

a 2.2 stroker is lazy.

Stick with 2.0. It has a great rod stroke ratio. A 2.2 has a horrible rod stroke ratio.

[mec]

1582215823

Carbon was pretty bad, engine is mostl stripped now, needs a few more things off in the front. Working on getting engine components within the next two weeks!

Dan,

What do you mean lazy? Due to increased side loading force? I spoke with a guy about it and he says he gets into boost way earlier on a gt3071 and off boost he also has noticed a good amount of power.

[ericpaulyoung]

a 2.2 stroker is lazy.

Stick with 2.0. It has a great rod stroke ratio. A 2.2 has a horrible rod stroke ratio.

What can we safely go up to without changing the stroke? I.e., if we went with a slight overbore?
Eric

[okswerve16]

What can we safely go up to without changing the stroke? I.e., if we went with a slight overbore?
Eric

changing the stroke means changing the crank, and 83.5mm is the biggest bore for an off the shelf piston. which would be 2033cc's

[ericpaulyoung]

changing the stroke means changing the crank, and 83.5mm is the biggest bore for an off the shelf piston. which would be 2033cc's

What about custom 86mm pistons without changing the stroke? Is this possible?
Eric

[okswerve16]

I *think* its physcialy possible to run up to 85/6mm but that gives you like 2mm thick cylinder walls (which on boost would be nogood), and idk what headgasket you would run probably custom since I beleive ours is only 84mm.

[mec]

It would be an expensive project, but possibly worth it. The 2.2 crank goes for $1400 and then you would need a diesel block, I'm not sure if everything would bolt up the same to it, so you may need custom machining, but then again you could sell your block and crank to help pay for it, alot of the 1.8 guys run FSI cranks to get up to 2.0 strokers.

[okswerve16]

lol selling your block and crank mayyyyy get you enough money for custom pistons or the stroker rods for the tall block not both. Def not enough for even the crank and the eurospec crank I heard a bunch of people had problems with it bending, you can go with an oetinger 99mm but idk where you can even get those anymore...your looking at 4-5grand, probably more for all the machine work the block will need, just in bottom end for 0.2 liter displacement? And like dan said the rod ratio isnt that great meaning you cant rev it out.

IMO doesnt make sense financially especially for us fsi guys we already have the crank that everyone wants lol

[mec]

I've never seen our cranks go for more than $400, and the block sells for approx the same, so Yeah, you probably not going to cover the crank, could get you the AHU block. Well there's always the 2.1 VW diesel crank as well, thats quite a bit cheaper, I'm going to just build my engine on IE 144x20 rods and probably 83 or 83.5 pistons for now. Maybe get the headwork done next year :)

Just picked up a snub mount and apikol rear diff mount too :) throwing those in next week!

[okswerve16]

I've never seen our cranks go for more than $400, and the block sells for approx the same, so Yeah, you probably not going to cover the crank, could get you the AHU block. Well there's always the 2.1 VW diesel crank as well, thats quite a bit cheaper, I'm going to just build my engine on IE 144x20 rods and probably 83 or 83.5 pistons for now. Maybe get the headwork done next year :)

Just picked up a snub mount and apikol rear diff mount too :) throwing those in next week!

Yeah you pick up a tdi crank those 95.5 and will give you 2.1l, but most need straighetning and balancing and lots of machine work so your still looking at 800-1000 but at least we dont need a new block lol

Good luck man, hows the engine break down coming along?

[Sales@RAI]

What can we safely go up to without changing the stroke? I.e., if we went with a slight overbore?
Eric

The *only* reason I would do a overbore on a 2.0T is if something catastrophic happened that caused scoring on the cylinder wall, and a simple hone wouldn't take it out.



It would be an expensive project, but possibly worth it. The 2.2 crank goes for $1400 and then you would need a diesel block, I'm not sure if everything would bolt up the same to it, so you may need custom machining, but then again you could sell your block and crank to help pay for it, alot of the 1.8 guys run FSI cranks to get up to 2.0 strokers.


I started to put together the parts for a 2.2L stroker a couple years ago for my car. To do it properly, and have a perfect rod stroke ratio, you need a ALH block from a TDI. It is taller than the 06A/B.

I acquired a ALH block and then started pricing everything, and it was $3k just for rods, custom crank, and custom pistons. That excludes bearings and all the other custom parts that would need to be fabricated to do the swap properly. It is horrendously expensive, and that makes it even more expensive when something breaks. Making a 2.2L using the 06A/B block is not a good idea. That is why when 034 Motorsports built that bottom end for their time attack car, they quickly found out how lazy it was, and then destroked it to a 2.1, and then, if I remember correctly, just went back to a OTS 2.0 stroker setup.

A 2.2L will make a GTX2867 w .64 A/R run out of breath rather quickly also.

[ericpaulyoung]

Ya, good points.
Eric

[mec]

Yeah you pick up a tdi crank those 95.5 and will give you 2.1l, but most need straighetning and balancing and lots of machine work so your still looking at 800-1000 but at least we dont need a new block lol

Good luck man, hows the engine break down coming along?
Pretty much all stripped, havent had time to work on it much, just need to get the front side for the timing belt and all the pulley accessories, also couldnt figure out how to get the oil dipstick out so i left that in lol.
For now I am just looking for good deals on pistons and rods.

The *only* reason I would do a overbore on a 2.0T is if something catastrophic happened that caused scoring on the cylinder wall, and a simple hone wouldn't take it out.





I started to put together the parts for a 2.2L stroker a couple years ago for my car. To do it properly, and have a perfect rod stroke ratio, you need a ALH block from a TDI. It is taller than the 06A/B.

I acquired a ALH block and then started pricing everything, and it was $3k just for rods, custom crank, and custom pistons. That excludes bearings and all the other custom parts that would need to be fabricated to do the swap properly. It is horrendously expensive, and that makes it even more expensive when something breaks. Making a 2.2L using the 06A/B block is not a good idea. That is why when 034 Motorsports built that bottom end for their time attack car, they quickly found out how lazy it was, and then destroked it to a 2.1, and then, if I remember correctly, just went back to a OTS 2.0 stroker setup.

A 2.2L will make a GTX2867 w .64 A/R run out of breath rather quickly also.

Thanks for the info! I'm glad you guys are around and havent abandoned teh 2.0t fsi platform:)

[Mc Suly]

a 2.2 stroker is lazy.

Stick with 2.0. It has a great rod stroke ratio. A 2.2 has a horrible rod stroke ratio.

I read that it's not worth it to do a 2.2 stroker

good build!
don't forget to dyno her!

[mec]

15863158641586515866
Finally got some parts in :)

[Sales@RAI]

very nice [up] [up]

[mec]

15883
Teaser pic! Also my exhaust came in today, I'll post pics when I get a chance to weld it all together. It's a 3" testipe downpipe combo to a y pipe, to magma flows with quad tips :) suck it JR:)

[mec]

Future az builders, buy this.

15980
Polydrive t10070

It will save you a weeks worth of downtime.

[mec]

http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4d8a0-b409-bf62.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4d8a0-b41c-7221.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4d8a0-b436-97a0.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4d8a0-b471-962a.jpg

Engine is striped. Will be getting internals after all machine work, end of September most likely.

On a Sidenote If anyone needs stock engine parts like injectors, manifold, pistons rods , etc let me know!

[ericpaulyoung]

http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4d8a0-b409-bf62.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4d8a0-b41c-7221.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4d8a0-b436-97a0.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4d8a0-b471-962a.jpg

Engine is striped. Will be getting internals after all machine work, end of September most likely.

On a Sidenote If anyone needs stock engine parts like injectors, manifold, pistons rods , etc let me know!

Right on, sounds great!! :0 Can't wait to see the resultsssssss :)

- Eric

[CorneliusRox]

15883
Teaser pic! Also my exhaust came in today, I'll post pics when I get a chance to weld it all together. It's a 3" testipe downpipe combo to a y pipe, to magma flows with quad tips :) suck it JR:)

what kind of lumen output?

[mec]

Just realized my pictures didn't pop up, tapatalk didn't work.

Corey,

I am not sure, lol I forget about that project as soon as I started to get engine parts. It was from Flexfireleds.com though.

[mec]

16009160101601116012

Was gonna get a picture of the crank too but my hands were too oily at that point to touch my phone

[jimrobbington]

I can deal with a quad tip on a bt car, it's on stock cars that it bothers me. So you suck it, martin. Lol. Why u no post pictures properly?

[ericpaulyoung]

What is everybody using for the DIY on pulling the old engine and installing the new engine?
- Eric

[mec]

Lol, I don't like uploading pictures to a site that hosts them and then also having to link them back to az. Taps talk lets me do it in 1 step but the pictures are smaller. Plus all I know how to do is by quad tip exhausts.

Epy,

I'll probably just follow Elsawin's guide.

[ericpaulyoung]

Cool, there is a guide! Can you give me the link?
Eric

[mec]

Nah, not online, its in PDF form, I can email it to you though.

[ericpaulyoung]

Awesome.
eric.paul.young at gmail.com

Mucho Gracias Senior

[mec]

De nada mi amigo

[mec]

16023160241602516026

With some advice from ok swerve I got my block disassembled today, just need to get the head done now. Also checked today and found out my spare head has the b series cams [up]

[ericpaulyoung]

what was the issue that okswerve helped you out with?
- Eric

[ericpaulyoung]

duplicate post

[slimmj0k3r]

What is everybody using for the DIY on pulling the old engine and installing the new engine?
- Eric

Invest in bentley manual/ebahn and study it, its your best friend [:D]

[ericpaulyoung]

Yup, I bought the hardcopy Bentley, not Realizing it has half the shit that the electronic version does. What a waste of money. The hardcopy only has stuff you can figure out yourself or find online.

[okswerve16]

Yup, I bought the hardcopy Bentley, not Realizing it has half the shit that the electronic version does. What a waste of money. The hardcopy only has stuff you can figure out yourself or find online.

I made the same mistake lol

[mec]

Turbo kit and intercooler are on the way! still looking into piping kits. Nothing for the internals on the engine yet.

[ericpaulyoung]

Turbo kit and intercooler are on the way! still looking into piping kits. Nothing for the internals on the engine yet.

Right on bro!
- Eric

[mec]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8309/7993534788_3a28c999bd_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87357824@N08/7993534788/)
IMG_2408 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87357824@N08/7993534788/) by [email protected] (http://www.flickr.com/people/87357824@N08/), on Flickr

Backwards currently so it can still fit in the storage box. Thinking about throwing it on low boost stock engine.

[fordyoz]

nice!

[mec]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/15/a8yda8ap.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/15/ababuvam.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/15/remyvu9a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/15/zavu7eza.jpg

Finally finished the fmic install. I was doing pulls all the way from Vail to Denver, and it performed fantastic! No heatsoak at all and it just keep going and going. Strange thing is it seems like I have more power in the higher rpms!
+1 for Garrett intercoolers and at a total cost with piping and brackets of under $600 it was a great purchase.

[CorneliusRox]

I didnt realize you were up and running yet? You'll have to take me for a ride in a couple weeks.

[mec]

Not yet, I should be good to go this friday. I need to get my basefile for Eurodyne still, but I have set up everything else so that I can throw the turbo on this friday so long as the file is available as well, But while I was clocking the turbo yesterday I noticed that my turbo kit is missing all of the hardware for the wastegate, all it has is the diaphragm and eyelit. Also think its missing several gaskets. I will definitely do a review on this turbo kit, so far I am not too happy with it, though its not in the car yet!

[shiro1745]

Nah, not online, its in PDF form, I can email it to you though.

can I get that too?


Awesome.
eric.paul.young at gmail.com

Mucho Gracias Senior

Eric, I saw you posted somewhere that the hard copy of Bentley you go has less stuff than the e-version. Just let me know if you need anything, I can send you pdfs.

[mec]

It's Been a while since I sent that to EPY do you remember what it is you need?

[shiro1745]

a DIY for pulling the engine

[Dan[FN]6262]

what A/R turbine housing did you get?

[ericpaulyoung]

It's Been a while since I sent that to EPY do you remember what it is you need?

MEC,
Got it and it was very helpful, thanks!

I do need one for assembling the head. If you got one for this, it would be great.

[mec]

a DIY for pulling the engine
Yeah I know where that is, PM me your email address.

6262;8077107']what A/R turbine housing did you get?
.64ar, The turbo looks good, but the kit is missing so many pieces, and the tubular manifold has some issues as well. I did install the Air intake from the kit though and the car sounds so loud lol, even at 5 psi on the K03, you can hear it, everyone always turns around and is like WTF is that whisling.

MEC,
Got it and it was very helpful, thanks!

I do need one for assembling the head. If you got one for this, it would be great.

Yeah I think I have one, its like 3 seperate files, I'll get back to you on that one.

[mec]

E-mails have been sent.

Also for those who asked here is the parts list for my intercooler.
(1) Garrett intercooler rated for 600hp 3" thick

Hoses
(1) 90* 2" to 2.5" reducer hose
(3) 45* 2.5" hoses
(1) 90* 2.5" hose
(1) straight 2.5" 3" long hose

Pipe
(2) 2.5" 90* pipes(one has a welded map sensor on it)
(1) 2.5" 135* pipe
(1) 2.5" straight 4" long pipe.

Extra
(1) 1 map sensor bung from ebay
(3) 12" brackets from Home Depot
Random bolts to secure FMIC to brackets. (I reused the t30 bolts that secure the bracket to the car).

t bolt clamps
(1) 2" clamp
(12) 2.5" clamps

[shiro1745]

Thank you sir! [hail]

[ericpaulyoung]

Received email. Thanks !

[mec]

I was planning on installing the turbo today and tomorrow but I ran into a problem.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/21/asy4ymes.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/21/u6apege3.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/21/amuhuny4.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/21/ejepuby7.jpg

It looks like the Exhaust flange is mounted somewhat crooked to the piping. The studs for the turbo are all different sizes, and I believe the exhaust flange that bolts to the head is warped. Im taking it in to the machine shop on Monday to have it inspected. Figure it's worth the effort to fix it now vs breaking a stud in the future. And the first few pics make me want to get the edges smoothed so the exhaust gases will flow with less turbulence.

Customer support has been great though. Ray gave me a brief intro to maestro yesterday as well as some tips for setting up my turbo. If I can get the manifold all squared away I should have it on the car by next weekend!

[mec]

Funds for the internals finally came through!
Ordered:
Wossner 83.5mm pistons w/ 9.2:1 CR
I beam rods with rifle drilling 144x20
arp head and main studs
dowel pin crank kit
main bearings and rod bearings
redline and gaskets.

Turbo is def not going in within the next two weeks, but RAI is helping me sort my manifold problems[up]

[ericpaulyoung]

Looking good!

[viziers]

Funds for the internals finally came through!
Ordered:
Wossner 83.5mm pistons w/ 9.2:1 CR
I beam rods with rifle drilling 144x20
arp head and main studs
dowel pin crank kit
main bearings and rod bearings
redline and gaskets.

Turbo is def not going in within the next two weeks, but RAI is helping me sort my manifold problems[up]


You will love the Wossners (same exact as mine 83.5mm)!!! Give Evan a call on ring gaps on these as he talked to Wossner on specifics but otherwise follow the specs sheet that comes with it even if a shop says otherwise (thats what I remember Wossner saying if I remember correctly)... The pistons have no slap on cold start (due to ring gap)


I love my car now that temps are in the 40* in mornings! 373 to the wheels is awesome....lol



vizi

[Dan[FN]6262]

Ring gap really doesn't have as much to do with piston slap, but piston to wall clearance does. Piston slap occurs when the bore is just slightly too large for the piston. So the piston "slaps" the cylinder wall until its heated up and expanded to the proper size. That's the easiest way I know how to explain it.

Also has a lot to do with what materials the pistons are made out of. Some pistons, like JE's that are made out of 2861 (IIRC) alloy are designed to expand, so the PTW clearance is slightly different then other manufacturer's like Mahle, who's pistons are made out of an alloy which barely expands.

[mec]

If I remember correctly the Wossners had more silicon than Mahle or JE's. That by itself will cause less thermal expansion and prevent piston slap.

Vizi,

What are you running for PTW and ring gaps?

[Dan[FN]6262]

I know this. Wossner pistons are a good product.

I was just explaining that piston slap is not caused solely by ring gap.

[viziers]

If I remember correctly the Wossners had more silicon than Mahle or JE's. That by itself will cause less thermal expansion and prevent piston slap.

Vizi,

What are you running for PTW and ring gaps?


I'n not sure off hand, as I don't have the paperwork here.. But Evan knows what it is (obsiviusly lol)....


Ya learn something new everyday.. Thanks Dan.. I was under the impression the the rings had some to do with it, As I do agree it does depend on the piston to wall clearance....



vizi

[Wizard-of-OD]

I acquired a ALH block and then started pricing everything, and it was $3k just for rods, custom crank, and custom pistons. That excludes bearings and all the other custom parts that would need to be fabricated to do the swap properly. It is horrendously expensive, and that makes it even more expensive when something breaks. Making a 2.2L using the 06A/B block is not a good idea.
yes and No.
In the late 80's / Early 90's Oettinger used 99mm and even 105mm stroke crankshafts in 8V and 16V builds and they ran fine.
1.44 and 1.37 rod ratio is acceptable for a motor (Honda's have less rod ratio on some motors).



That is why when 034 Motorsports built that bottom end for their time attack car, they quickly found out how lazy it was, and then destroked it to a 2.1, and then, if I remember correctly, just went back to a OTS 2.0 stroker setup.
Sorry this is incorrect. Today for 06A/06B/06F motors , the only option to gain 2.2L is with a 100mm stroke crankshaft & 83.5mm bore. Oettinger is no longer making engine components so the only company that makes a 100mm stroke crankshaft today is Eurospec. A crankshaft that is notorious for bending. The motor was not lazy , the crankshaft simply failed like the rest of the Eurospec crankshafts.

Bending crankshaft = failed bearings = failed rotating assembly.
2.0 92.8mm stroke forged crankshaft is the perfect balance between weight and rod ratio. 95.5mm crankshafts are almost 6 lbs heavier than 92.8mm stroke cranks.

Hope that helps.

[mec]

1618616187

For everyone curious about the Dowel pin kit from IE here's some info.

Kit comes with
1 Specially modified drilled and reamed timing belt drive gear
2 high strength alloy steel dowel pins
1 drill bit
1 precision hole reamer

Instructions:
1.) Position timing belt gear on crankshaft and drill into crankshaft using drill bit. Make sure to not exceed .415" into the crankshaft. Drill slowly and in control allowing the chips to come out of the hole. You may have noticed that this timing belt gear looks a bit different, it has 2 small holes next to the crank bolt hole. This is where the dowel pins will be placed. Thus you will drill into one of these holes, ONE ONLY. And do not go past .415".

2.) Remove timing belt gear and set aside.

3.) Lubricate the reamer with WD-40 and place it into the drill, run it slowly into the hole until it bottoms out, do not ream out the hole when finished, do not reverse the drill to remove it, simply feed it clockwise and pull the drill out with it still turning.

4.)Blow out the hole with compressed air and then carburetor cleaner until the fluid running out is completely clean and free of debris.

5.) line up the dowel pin with the crankshaft and and lightly tap it into place until it is fully seated, use a soft mallet, make sure not to mushroom the head of the dowel pin. Measure the installed height of the pin sticking out of the crankshaft. Correct height should be .33 to .39". DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL TIMING GEAR IF THE INSTALLED HEIGHT EXCEEDS .390"

6.) Keep in mind that you only need to use one dowel pin, the second dowel pin is there only if you damage or break the first dowel pin.

7.) Place the gear back onto the cranksahft, Gently tap it back into place.Do not lubricate! A clean joint free of oil and debris is essential.

8.) Install the damper bolt and torque back to spec, do not use an impact gun.

[mec]

Also here's this!http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/26/y2y2asy6.jpg

[drumnjuny]

that looks pretty easy to me.... haha

[mec]

made some good progess today. Shipped out the manifold to be fixed on Wednesday, and today I delivered the engine, pistons and rods to the machine shop, also dropped of the DMFW to get resurfaced.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/27/u6agysyj.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/27/e9ama2at.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/27/ereqasy7.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/27/y5a2uzyp.jpg

[Wizard-of-OD]

Do you know what is the CC dish on those pistons?

[mec]

I do not. They are at the machine shop, I'll see if the machinist can measure them

[Wizard-of-OD]

I do not. They are at the machine shop, I'll see if the machinist can measure them
Please do as those look like AXW pistons not BMP/BPY
you need to have a -7cc dish (depending on if you decked your head or not) to yield anything below OEM CR.

[mec]

Head is not decked yet. But will be. The pistons are actually for a BPY not a bpg or bmp, I think compression was 9.2:1. But the AXX engine in an a3 has the same specs as the 2.0t fsi a4 bpy/bpg so it will run perfectly

[viziers]

Those look good to me as I have the same one in my motor now and running fine...


vizi

[Wizard-of-OD]

Those look good to me as I have the same one in my motor now and running fine...


vizi
Looking "as good" and actually figuring out the math before you assemble your motor are 2 different categories.


The pistons are actually for a BPY not a bpg or bmp, I think compression was 9.2:1.
Same difference.
In order to yield a 9.2:1 CR you piston would need to have a negative CC dish of which you do not have based on that part # and schematics of the piston. Again CC the pistons before you end up with a tuning nightmare.

PART # : Wossner 9213D100
Cylinder head volume : 46cc’s (FSI timing belt with OEM valves , 45cc's with Ferrea valves)
Cylinder head gasket volume assuming 0.9mm thickness and 83.5mm bore = 4.93cc’s
Your piston has a negative dish of : Xcc’s
Total Vc = X + 4.92 + 46 = 50.92cc + Xcc

With 83.5mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 508.2 cc’s

E (compression ratio) = (Vh + Vc) / Vc = 508.2 + (50.92 +X) / (50.92 + X) = 9.2 :1
X = 11.05cc

Wossner lists these as :
http://www.wossnerpistons.com/products/product-details/id/WOS-9213D100/name/wossner-piston-audi-a3-2-0ltr-t-fsi-turbo-83-5-mm-bore?cookietest=1

-5.38cc as dome volume removed but they do not list what is the dome volume protruding from the crown of the piston. If they are anything like what we had a few years ago then you are actually looking @ a total volume of +2cc!

-5.38cc in your configuration would yield almost OEM CR.
E (compression ratio) = (Vh + Vc) / Vc = 508.2 + (50.92 - 2) / (50.92 - 2) = 11.34 :1 CR

Which is higher than OEM.
There is a reason why Mahle Motorsport trumps all other piston manufactures in the market today.
have a good read:
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43120&page=11

[mec]

My machinist is out today I'm meeting him Monday to give him the rest of the rotating assembly so he can spin balance it and I'll ask him then

[Dan[FN]6262]

Arjun's car made pretty baller power with those Wossner's. It was pretty easy to tune also. I should know.

[mec]

Arjun has custom wossners with 9.0:1cr

These are just the normal ones they sell that are 9.2:1 and I would hope someone has caught the problem already but maybe Issam is right, might as well get it checked at the machinist

[drumnjuny]

pretty sure my pistons are not stock compression, right Dan? i thought 9.0:1 so that's what i told martin earlier today...

[mec]

To be honest I only read like 2 pages of that thread and it looks like one mistake that JE made with the TSI pistons. Anyway, dome CC's aside, not that I measured, but what about height? Maybe the wossners are shorter than the stock pistons and so adding the crown design is ok because the piston is shorter.

[Wizard-of-OD]

To be honest I only read like 2 pages of that thread and it looks like one mistake that JE made with the TSI pistons. Anyway, dome CC's aside, not that I measured, but what about height? Maybe the wossners are shorter than the stock pistons and so adding the crown design is ok because the piston is shorter.
No point speculating about what if's. From the looks of it the pistons will yield a higher than OEM CR but CC'ing them will either confirm or deny your fears.

[mec]

Hmm, guess I'll have to do that. I have very strong doubts that they are incorrect, but now that you've got me thinking....

[viziers]

Hmm, guess I'll have to do that. I have very strong doubts that they are incorrect, but now that you've got me thinking....

I am currently talking to Evan about it! But as of 4k miles later I can tell you I have no issues at all other than the tuning needs to be adjusted for the new StgII HPFP other than that i'm not even pulling any timing except for cyl3 which is at 3* and the others are at 0*




vizi

[mec]

I checked my cam follower today, it's been roughly 8-10k.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/29/u7yhyneg.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/29/evahyryj.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/29/erapunu4.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/29/a5yrypyr.jpg

There's quite a bit of scoring, and it seems like this follower wore very quickly, it's pretty best up and unevenly worn.

[Dan[FN]6262]

I'd replace that bastard asap.

[viziers]

6262;8120500']I'd replace that bastard asap.


X2



Issam so far ive put close to 5k work of miles and have not had one issue and I pull/use no timing except for cyl3 with see's 3* on occasion.



vizi

[mec]

Yeah I plan on it. Unfortunately since its my only car I put everything back on. I need to get all new parts for that pump, also I found a wrecked b7 up here in Colorado so I'm gonna see if I can get the cam or entire head off of it for cheap

[AudiTFSI3o3]

shit that looks beautiful compared to mine.

is the wrecked B7 blue?

[mec]

Light blue! In northglenn?

[AudiTFSI3o3]

yea i saw it on craigs i think

[s4930]

looking good man! cant wait to see this beast all finished up

[mec]

You'll have to come check it out!!

I see you updated your signature, did you put that kit in yet?

[s4930]

You'll have to come check it out!!

I see you updated your signature, did you put that kit in yet?

ill be there hopefully in january! and not yet man itll be going in december 8th lol

[mec]

Looking forward to it! make a build thread so I can check out the progress lol

[s4930]

i already did! its in the main b5 forum... but good luck with whats left of your project looks pretty sick so far ill def need your help when you come down

[mec]

The car is at the dealership getting a new cam :)

[drumnjuny]

The car is at the dealership getting a new cam :)

congrats! you got it by em without the CEL?

[mec]

Yeah they took it apart and saw that my cam had scratching on it. They were really chill too, didn't mind my fmic or exhaust, catch can etc.

[drumnjuny]

niiice. well yeah fmic, exhaust and catch can can technically be played off as mileage and maintenance mods... haha... that's what i would've said :P

congratulations dude that's a huge win haha. just wait till u sign the sheet of paper that says total: 3800, balance: 0 [up] that's what mine was at least. i almost shit a brick!

[mec]

I went to the most expensive dealership around here so I'm sure it will be more. They asked me if I wanted to do a timing belt service, I'm at 60k and they wanted $1450, but since the head is apart it was only 1150, still I was like no I'll pass I can do it myself in 40k for $300.

[drumnjuny]

Haha yeah, fuck that and ya prestige is a huge ripoff lol

[mec]

Got the car back today. Feels very slow, I'm thinking because the battery was unplugged while they worked on the fuel system and it lost the maps, but there is also a very loud clanking noise. I can't tell if it's the variator or the hpfp, anyone with the recall have this before? It sounds like a miniature diesel engine in my engine bay, and I know it's not the fsi injectors, it's an abnormal sound....

[ericpaulyoung]

Maps won't go away from an unplugged battery. That sounds bad to me; like maybe they forgot something or missed a part. The only things in that area to make clanking sounds are the vacuum pump, variator system, and hpfp. How is your fuel pressure?
Eric

[ericpaulyoung]

One exception, If you have APR tuning the reset to map 1, whatever that is for your tune.
Eric

[mec]

I used to have APR, I am running Maestro now. I havent had a chance to log, but on the drive home the car seemed slower, granted its back on the stock pump but the morning i dropped it off the stock pump was doing great. But there sounds like a diesel in the variator. Also the head shakes violently and you can see the hpfp vibrate, makes me think its definitely from the dealership repairing the camshaft. Also apparently they said my stock pump is fine so they didn't replace it. I am going to take it in tomorrow to have them check out the noise. I am relatively certain its something to do with the variator.....

[mec]

Ok so I drove around a bit more the noise is only there when the engine warms up, when the oil isn't at operating temp or pressure is low there is no sound. Now I remember the sheet from the dealer said they did an oil change with castrol 5w-30, I've been using m1 0w-40, think that might have caused problems from switching oils bak and forth ?

[ericpaulyoung]

Should not change the sound. I have run several different weight oils with no change in engine sound.

[shiro1745]

I had the same problem after they replaced my cams hpfp and follower. I was apr back then and the car felt like went back from stage 2+ to stage 2. Never figured it out. Didn't have the ticking tought.
I remember I posted the issue and they were a few users that had the same problem. Nobody knew why.

[mec]

Do you have links to those threads? Did the issue go away? it really doesn't sound like a breaking in kind of noise.

[shiro1745]

Oh man, sorry, I don't have links. I need to get organized with my posts on Audizine. Sometimes I have problems finding threads that I've started as well. It was long time ago and I don't think I started a thread, I posted in somebody else's thread and some people replied with the same issue but nobody knew why.

The problem never went away, then I installed K0R + RS4 injectors + Maestro tune but now I have different issues. I whish I had an answer.

[drumnjuny]

dang :( bad news bears. i'd take it back to Prestige and ask them what the noise is.

[mec]

its def not running like raped ape so I think there is definitely an issue, I'm going to try to stop by tomorrow, I'm also having my exhaust welded so hopefully I have enough time.

[drumnjuny]

its def not running like raped ape so I think there is definitely an issue, I'm going to try to stop by tomorrow, I'm also having my exhaust welded so hopefully I have enough time.

say what??

[mec]

You've never heard JR say that??? lol makes me crack up everytime.

[drumnjuny]

haha nah, i'm out of the loop

[viziers]

The "Rape ape" sayin has been around for generations. lol Now te one im surprised to see is 'The Bad News Bears" that Tv show is Ooooold...



vizi

[drumnjuny]

haha i guess i just have an awkward cornucopia of idioms for my generation...

[mec]

Car is out again, the dealership thinks its the chain tensioner so I am dropping it off for diagnosis

[drumnjuny]

they better cover it!

[mec]

:) its covered and they are replacing the tensioner and the housing, I hope its the updated housing :)

[drumnjuny]

oh i bet it will be the updated housing!! apparently you can't buy the old one anymore, according to Ray at least.

[mec]

That's good news, Prestige has me really surprised, I still want to ask how that happened, but so far Customer satisfaction is 5stars!

[Firefox250]

Any updates from the dealer?

[mec]

Not yet, I spoke with them yesterday and he told me they ordered parts to fix my car today, but he wasn't sure when i would get it back, he just said in the evening probably around 5 tonight.

[shiro1745]

What warranty do you have? So they agreed to cover it even if you have a BT?

[mec]

No warranty I am at 60k mi, but the Audi recall on camshafts and hpfp goes up to 120,000 and 10 years I believe. I actually have yet to install my BT. I am waiting on my manifold to ship back from RAI and I am waiting on my machinist to finish preparing my block. IE had an incorrect shipment of ARP mains so I ended up with Mains that were 1.5 pitch vs stock 1.25, so that slowed me back about a week. I just took my hpfp off and my boost gague and a few other goodies. The dealership exhaust, intake, FMIC, and catch can don't negative impacts on the camshaft, they are a stasis dealership thought so I'm sure that changes things.

[mec]

I picked up the car about an hour ago and I was really surprised by Prestige![up]

Previously they replaced my cam, cam follower, and all the seals to get to the engine, as well as an oil change.

This time they replaced the rear timing housing around $500 just for the part, and the rear chain tensioner about $120 for that one, and they did another oil change. So around $700 in parts plus who knows how much labor. But they didn't charge me at all :)

And not only did they provide excellent service and quick return time, but they even washed my car, The wheels look cleaner than ever, and the car is shining:)

I would definitely recommend them to anyone looking to get their cam warranty taken care of!

[ericpaulyoung]

DUDE, awesome. You should keep the new parts with your build too, so that you have all the new stuff on the built motor! Bonus.
- Eric

[shiro1745]

That's great! I didn't know the cam chain tensioner is covered under the same warranty.

I asked this a few days ago in another thread but didn't get the answer. Do they have to replace the cam chain and tensioner when they replace the cams? I'm asking because I had my both cams, hpfpf, follower replaced but I'm not sure they replaced the chain or/and tensioner?

[ericpaulyoung]

They don't have to replace them, but I would. If the two items are not covered, ask if they can throw them in just for the cost of the parts (since it takes literally zero extra work to use new parts when you are replacing the other stuff already).
- Eric

[mec]

No, the camshaft warranty is specifically only for the camshaft, cam follower, fuel pump and the necessary gaskets and bolts to reseal the head.

This is why I was so happy is because when I received my car back there was a strong ticking noise and when I took it back to them they said they would cover the repair and replace both my tensioner and housing free of charge and although it is not a warranty part.

This is the G revision I think the part number was 06F-103-107-G with tensioner 06F-109-217-A. I think that the housing is the newest revision so I should hopefully not have a similar variator failure that Arjun experienced.

I left the dealership really happy knowing they covered the repair free of charge, and my car is running much better and quiet.

[shiro1745]

They don't have to replace them, but I would. If the two items are not covered, ask if they can throw them in just for the cost of the parts (since it takes literally zero extra work to use new parts when you are replacing the other stuff already).
- Eric

I already had them replaced long time ago, I was just trying to find out if they have to replace them, I guess then I still have the old tensioner.

[shiro1745]

No, the camshaft warranty is specifically only for the camshaft, cam follower, fuel pump and the necessary gaskets and bolts to reseal the head.

This is why I was so happy is because when I received my car back there was a strong ticking noise and when I took it back to them they said they would cover the repair and replace both my tensioner and housing free of charge and although it is not a warranty part.

This is the G revision I think the part number was 06F-103-107-G with tensioner 06F-109-217-A. I think that the housing is the newest revision so I should hopefully not have a similar variator failure that Arjun experienced.

I left the dealership really happy knowing they covered the repair free of charge, and my car is running much better and quiet.

That's freaking awesome.

[mec]

I already had them replaced long time ago, I was just trying to find out if they have to replace them, I guess then I still have the old tensioner.

I think the tensioner was never updated, but the variator/housing was, I think thats the important part to update as well as the cap on the back that EPY has looked into and apparently the TTY screws back out of them.

EPY do you know if the screws back out on the new revision too?

[ericpaulyoung]

Don't know of any cases, but when these fail they usually just go to a dealer or shop and the shop replaces all the parts without determining what was the root cause. It seems shops like to point in the direction of the engine and say "something over there blew up, start replacing shit".

Having said that, I had the new revision tensioner, and when I took my engine apart I pulled the adjuster wheel apart just out of interest. Bad news was that 3 of the bolts were loose and the last 2 basically welded in place. That is why I decided to get a new one and figure out how to keep all 5 tight. As long as the bolts don't back out, the new adjust wheel design CANT fail as long as the housing and valve work. Here is a look at the new design.

http://s1073.beta.photobucket.com/user/ericpaulyoung/media/1C84B2EF-1950-4ECB-AC85-9AAF19A362C8-4641-000004AC4AC1B91F.mp4.html

[mec]

God damn it.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/11/epy3ubuv.jpg

[Firefox250]

Whoa who backed into you!?

[Operator]

Crappy, but hello insurance claim, hello DTM rear.

I have felt your Brilliant Red pain!!!

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg163/scaled.php?server=163&filename=imagefab.jpg&res=landing

[mec]

Some dumbass hit me at a stoplight

[ericpaulyoung]

Holy shit mang! This has been a hell of a year for the b7 crew.

- Eric

[mec]

True....Its a good wakeup call though, just because you are a safe driver doesn't mean every else is. I'm calling their insurance monday and hopefully can get some DTM and my rear right fender straightened out.

[Firefox250]

Yikes man! Good bear your okay, did you see the guy coming? In the picture your trunk look twisted? Looks expensive but a DTM bumper will look good.

[seal66]

That sucks man! glad r okay though. Insurance is gonna help. that is not that bad

[mec]

Thanks guys.

No I didn't See the guy coming. I had passed him in the left lane on a 2 lane road and I was slowing down at a yellow light when he hit us, he probably wasn't paying attention to the road.

The trunk isn't twisted it's straight, it has a tiny bend in the lower right corner. The reason the trunk looks twisted is because the fender and whole side was hit so vertically that the sheet metal bent in on itself and now it doesn't like up with the trunk or the natural fender lines.

[Operator]

hopefully can get some DTM http://www.fordfusionclub.com/images/smilies/legacy/assimilate.gif

[IronAudi]

IVe been following these builds and I see everyone talking about having to get it replaced, but I haven't seen what the car starts to do for this to be checked? Ive got 73K on my 08 A4 and I'm wondering what should i check to see if I can get this done. Any help would be appreciated

TIA

[shiro1745]

Sorry about this, but as Dave said, it's a bit of a hassle but you'll end up with a nice DTM rear bumper. If the first shop you go to doesn't want to do a DTM end go to another, it's all up to the shop. I have a friend who's been fixing cars for years and he told me that.

[mec]

IVe been following these builds and I see everyone talking about having to get it replaced, but I haven't seen what the car starts to do for this to be checked? Ive got 73K on my 08 A4 and I'm wondering what should i check to see if I can get this done. Any help would be appreciated

TIA

Pull your cam follower and check it, if you noticed it has abnormal wear, concavity, etc, get it inspected at a dealership. Most dealerships want to see a CEL before they consider replacing the whole assembly, but some dealers will help you out.

@SHIRO1745

Yeah, I understand the perspective and making the best ouf of it, the worst part right now is not knowing if the guy will pay up, and how bad the damage is, I checked inside my trunk and there is definitely major repairs necessary, there appears to be sheet metal sticking out of the grey trunk lining. I have a feeling that this will be well into $3500-5000 to fix, maybe more! I am really hoping they don't say they are totaling it, finding another brilliant red manual with reasonable miles and upgraded cams and variator will be impossible.

[shiro1745]

The repairs may as well be much more than that. I remember when I got rear ended, the trunk lid was damage like a tiny bit in a spot so just like a small dent(I made them reprint the lid) the bumper wasn't damaged too bad, basically had two cuts in it but they had to replace it, half of the tail light broken and i think the crash bar, but nothing else was damaged and I ended up with $3500 bill. What makes you think his insurance won't pay?

[shiro1745]

Oh and don't make the mistake to go through your insurance. I did that and they raised my premium quite a bit. I didn't know back then and if i insisted a bit more they would have paid up front.

[mec]

I'm not sure if his insurance will pay or not but at the time when we crashed he told me I'm sorry this is all my fault and I was freaking out andhe said don't worry I will pay I have insurance. I called his insurance yesterday he has yet to report it. I have to go on a road trip and this is my only vehicle and I leave in 2 weeks, so I went to his house and he didn't open the door, basically he's being really shady now.

[Firefox250]

Did you file a police report?

[mec]

No, I called 911 and they told me that it would take too long to get a cop out to the scene that it would be best to just swap info. And it had been snowing lightly, I mean the roads were bearly wet, no ice. So idk why they didn't want to send someone out.

[ericpaulyoung]

They were busy eating donutz

[ericpaulyoung]

File a report with his company.

[shiro1745]

No, I called 911 and they told me that it would take too long to get a cop out to the scene that it would be best to just swap info. And it had been snowing lightly, I mean the roads were bearly wet, no ice. So idk why they didn't want to send someone out.

That might complicate things then. I didn't know this. I really hope you get his insurance to pay. Good luck and keep us posted.
And don't ever say is fine when somebody hits you, these insurance companies take advantage of everything to charge you more so at the end you pay for it.

[mec]

I did file a report with GEICO, his insurance is apparently GEICO but for "Government Employees insurance company" It has his name and all that jazz. I called GEICO today and they told me it could take up to 30 days before my case would move and they would decide if they had liability or not. I'm not sure if this guy is being sneaky or out of town, but he hasn't filed a report yet, so I may have to wait 30 days. I really dont want to go through my insurance either because of a high deductible and the fact that it makes no sense to pay my insurance when someone else hit me.

[seal66]

Maybe its just my insurance company but when my jeep was hit and no one saw who did it, my insurance still paid to get it fixed.

[mec]

Well both insurances can pay. His insurance(GEICO) says they will pay if they can determine that they are liable, however he gets 5 days where geico calls him so basically there will be no progress this week. After that he still gets another three weeks where they send him letters and emails. so he gets a full month to slack off meanwhile I have a damaged car.

[shiro1745]

Well both insurances can pay. His insurance(GEICO) says they will pay if they can determine that they are liable, however he gets 5 days where geico calls him so basically there will be no progress this week. After that he still gets another three weeks where they send him letters and emails. so he gets a full month to slack off meanwhile I have a damaged car.

Same thing happened to me, his insurance said they were keep calling him every day and he wouldn't answer his phone. They said they cannot pay anything until they get in touch with him to confirm his fault. I even had the police report faxed to them and still wouldn't do anything, it said clearly that was his fault. That's when I decided to go with my insurance, they got me my deductible back after they got the money form his insurance but my premium still went up.

I think the ideal case would be to have him call his insurance company while you're there so he confirms everything. But not sure how easy is to make somebody call his insurance, he can say here is my info and deal with it!

[s4930]

God damn it.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/11/epy3ubuv.jpg

dude no!!!! sorry this happened to you at least its not more than a bumper by the looks of it

[ericpaulyoung]

Get in your truck, wait around the corner from the guys place, when he goes to the store accidentally rear end the shit out of his car. Wait a month and don't pay shit. Send letter on Christmas saying "karma is a bitch"

[ericpaulyoung]

Also throw a bag of Rock salt in his front yard so the whole thing dies and looks like shit, and he starts feeling depressed every time he pulls in his drive way.
Eric

[viziers]

Also throw a bag of Rock salt in his front yard so the whole thing dies and looks like shit, and he starts feeling depressed every time he pulls in his drive way.
Eric


Here ya go click on link below! Yes I have a mean streak if provoked......



http://crabrevenge.com/red.html





vizi

[ericpaulyoung]

I like that.

[mec]

a shampoo with crabs in it? If i'm doing revenge I'm doing much more than that. My deductible+ downtime+ increase in rates most likely+wasting my time+being a dumbass and not looking ahead. Whatever that is worth is the adequate payback. I went to his place and dropped off a note to contact me or GEICO by the end of today, I hope he takes it seriously.

[drumnjuny]

call the police now. see what they can do. probably nothing but who knows you might get lucky.

i told u man... gotta call the cops... so u have a witness and shit... that douchebag is probably talking to a lawyer trying to figure out how to get out of it

[drumnjuny]

also. x2 on crabs filled shampoo

[shiro1745]

Fuk that guy, if he refuses to pay fucking stab all of his 4 tires in the sidewalls a few times an he's got the same damage as you.

[shiro1745]

And then a few times more just for the hell of it.

[bpat1017]

beautiful build. Did you ever get the build finished?

[mec]

I actually just picked up the engine from the machinist yesterday I will be assembling it within the next month or so, I was rear ended pretty badly and want to get that fixed before I put the engine in. I got it inspected today and apparently its close to $6k in damages!

[shiro1745]

Any news from his insurance co?

[AudiTFSI3o3]

I actually just picked up the engine from the machinist yesterday I will be assembling it within the next month or so, I was rear ended pretty badly and want to get that fixed before I put the engine in. I got it inspected today and apparently its close to $6k in damages!

shit son $6k? any frame damage?

[drumnjuny]

damnnnn. that's a lot of money to play with haha... take the money and RS4 widebody?

edit: 6k sounds about right. trunk, bumper, that rear quarter panel extends to the front quarter panel if they need to replace that its a lot of labor and money right there. i say take the cash haha and fix it yourself!

[mec]

I woulda Iove some wide body action, but again that's what M&m quoted, I doubt geico will even given me that much, I will for sure have to fight for it

[mec]

Got my manifold back today, its not perfectly straight but it will do. The studs wobble now, they are very loose, so I guess I will have to take it elsewhere to get fixed this time. [headbang]

[seal66]

Seems like rai has been fucking up a lot lately. People wonder why I am not going rai

[mec]

true! so true, i am done pushing you or anyone towards an rai kit, i've had enough of this bs, i've been talking to a few members about helping me tune my car, and as far as hardware goes ill just get it myself, rai has shown to not be capable of handling even tiny requests.

[drumnjuny]

lmao you should put up a picture of the studs... 2 different sizes hahaha... true story i saw them today. are they supposed to be that way?

[seal66]

ya man. That is why I have been throwing the cts kit around so much

[mec]

meh, at one point or another every shop will let you down. It's hard for a shop to be honest when they have money on the line.

[NickDaQuick]

Hopefully it all gets sorted out! People are sketchy.... I got rear ended a couple of months back at a stoplight as well and the girl who hit me didnt have an insurance card or license on her, claiming they were both at home, so I had a cop come to take an accident report (she gave me her name and number as if that would be good enough...). I called her up to start talking about whats gonna happen, and she didnt pick up. Went to her apartment complex, but supposedly for her room # there was like 7 different letter houses with that number.... like 404a, 404b....and the lady at the front desk was super shady and wouldnt tell me which one was hers. Kept calling until finally I left a message saying it was her last day or im taking her ass to court....that same day she called back telling me her phone just started working again, funny how that works right?? Turns out she doesent have insurance, but made it easy and just had her send me a check for 500 for my deductible, which she did. It all worked out in the end, but man was she shady, and the car she had was suspiciously new....all is well now though!

[mec]

what? you got hit, she paid your deductible and your insurance rates didn't go up?

[NickDaQuick]

what? you got hit, she paid your deductible and your insurance rates didn't go up?

basically, yes. It was fully her fault, so my rates didnt go up, she had no insurance but agreed to pay my deductible of $500, which went towards a new bumper with paint, lower trunk trim replacement, a few other minor things and a new gas reading sensor

[mec]

that's very nice of your insurance. I have terrible american family insurance, as soon as i finish this build I am looking at other options, they have not been so great.

[mec]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/18/a4etyzy3.jpg
There she goes, towed yesterday, hopefully I'll get her back by mid December

[mec]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/18/nyty6azu.jpg

The crank is back along with arp mains. Need to get some plastigauge on Monday and torque down the piston squirters and the crank.

[Operator]

What type of oil do you plan to run?!?




















;-)

[mec]

For break in I will be using brad penn, after 5000 ill switch to synthetic, I've been pretty happy with M1 0w-40 but I've been thinkng about giving rotella t6 a chance too.

[Operator]

For break in I will be using brad penn, after 5000 ill switch to synthetic, I've been pretty happy with M1 0w-40 but I've been thinkng about giving rotella t6 a chance too.

Just busting your chops!!!

[mec]

When the time comes I will most likely just post At least 5 posts in the main section asking people what oil to get, then make individual posts about each oil weight and oil brand.

[drumnjuny]

lmao

[s4930]

true! so true, i am done pushing you or anyone towards an rai kit, i've had enough of this bs, i've been talking to a few members about helping me tune my car, and as far as hardware goes ill just get it myself, rai has shown to not be capable of handling even tiny requests.

ill talk to the blue martini girls so they can take some stress away when you come down! im not sure how good of an idea this is but on my old car the headers did not match up either so i ended up putting an extra gasket in there to compensate. if you force them to mate up perfectly it can create uneven tension and could cause the header to break prematurely

[mec]

Yeah I could always run an extra gasket, that's not a bad idea. In more worried about the studs, since those have broken before using this manifold.

Def call up the blue martini girls that always helps!

[drumnjuny]

sigh... i'm so not looking forward to when my manifold shits the bed :( the only other two people i know who have our manifold: you and andrew. 2 for 2 on fucked up manifolds. how much did we pay for those again...?

[mec]

Approx $1k since the turbo package is like 2600 and the gtx28 is 1600.

[jsandor91]

All this messed up manifold and other problems with rai kits is depressing me . Might have to consider a atp kit with gtx upgrade .

[CorneliusRox]

All this messed up manifold and other problems with rai kits is depressing me . Might have to consider a atp kit with gtx upgrade .

I have to say that even though I never see advertising or hear about them, ATP seems to do some pretty awesome, 'drop in', work.

[ericpaulyoung]

"drop in" is relative. But I can say their cast manifold will survive the apocalypse.
Eric

[jsandor91]

Anyone besides Shane using atp manifold ?

ps. Not trying to de rail your thread mec lol.

[CorneliusRox]

"drop in" is relative. But I can say their cast manifold will survive the apocalypse.
Eric

I'll definitely take your word on it. It makes it tempting that you can use your same exhaust and you can get the turbo is stock location (as in below the manifold).

[mec]

I would recommend you have a pro weld a tubular manifold, it will cost around 1k which is what the RAI mani costs, but it will be professionally crafted, you won't have to send it all the way to maryland only to receive it like 2-3 weeks later and it still needs work.

[mec]

Better question is why doesnt IE sell 2.0t manis?

[ericpaulyoung]

I am using the ATP manifold. It is very solid to say the least. I am not using the stock location one though. If I did it gain I would probably go that route and retain the stock motor mount.
Eric

[jsandor91]

Eric , which manifold are you using ? I thought they were all stock location .

[ericpaulyoung]

Ah the next debate :) so ATP offers two bottom mount manifolds. One is in the "stock location" in that the down pipe mounts at the same location, and their big kits that mount further back and have better exhaust gas porting into the turbine but you have to replace the engine mount and the down pope is shortened quite a bit. I have the latter.
Eric

[jsandor91]

Is that referring to the kits that include the test pipe ? I'm looking at just manifold and turbo

[ericpaulyoung]

Referring to the kit. Not sure which one comes separate. Make sure to ask.
Eric

[Dan[FN]6262]

"drop in" is relative. But I can say their cast manifold will survive the apocalypse.
Eric

Don't count it.

[ericpaulyoung]

6262;8192922']Don't count it.

Any known failures?

[swoardrider]

I believe ATP makes 3 manis that will work (more or less), a T25, T30, and V-band. All cast manufacturing. I haven't heard of any 2.0T failures, but the 1.8T guys have tons of threads regarding cracked ATP manis

[Operator]

I believe ATP makes 3 manis that will work (more or less), a T25, T30, and V-band. All cast manufacturing. I haven't heard of any 2.0T failures, but the 1.8T guys have tons of threads regarding cracked ATP manis

yeh, a quick yahoo/google search had a few threads pop up. And Dan I believe had 2 go bad personally.

[ericpaulyoung]

Great, now I will be sweating the manifold longevity !

[drumnjuny]

join the club!!! lmao.

[swoardrider]

This is been a problem discussion since I can remember in the B7 section. FSI causes higher EGTs. That, plus hanging a heavy BAT off the mani will usually lead to pre- mature failure. This is why the big boys built there BAT manis in their kits out of the high tech materials (Inconnel, etc)

Or, build a top mount, like some of the HTA guys in here. But even those have their weak points.