View Full Version : pcv valve help!!!!

04-06-2012, 10:37 AM
I'm so new to this, and this is prolly a stupid question, but i can not find the pcv valve! its a 2001 a4 quattro. 1.8t
can someone please tell me where its at, and how to change it may help as well! thanks.

04-06-2012, 11:43 AM
I'll tell you right away that this is a bigger project than you think. Changing this valve on a honda takes like 2 minutes. On your 1.8T, it's more like an entire Saturday thing.

The valve itself looks like this:

Here is an upgraded, billet aluminum version:

Here is where it goes:

Here is a DIY I wrote on changing this stuff out (post #7):

Here is what we are dealing with:

Basically, if you are diving in there to change the PCV valve, you should be changing parts 2, 5, and 6 together at the very least. There is actually a kit that 034 makes for this purpose now. It replaces all of that jazz with billet and silicone parts. Here you go:

04-06-2012, 01:35 PM
+1 on the 034 silicone replacements - http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-...e-p-21950.html

You really just have to take the throttle body hose off and flip the coolant expansion tank forward. After that its just a matter of having a powerful enough light to see everything. I really ripped my hands up when I did this. Its a pretty cramped space to be working in. I used a lot of different tools to get it out. It seemed very simple to do until I realized how little space I had to work in. The 034 kit was 100% worth it when I realized how dirty and rotten the pcv hoses were.

Also you may want to clean out the pancake valve that sits on the turbo intake hose from the airbox on the left side. Mine was full of water and really caked with grime.

04-07-2012, 11:07 AM
thanks man, that helped a lot. i replaced everything in there with oem parts from the dealership. just finished it. but now what do you know about the oil pressure switches, my oil pressure light keeps coming on, but only when im driving it. not on idle. can you help me there?
thanks Symon.

04-07-2012, 12:45 PM
switch could be bad, but we need more info. how many miles you got? regular oil changes? any sludge? could be a plugged pick up, or a tired pump which i am not aware of any cases of. you could hook up your own oil pressure guage for actually readings. someone correct me if i am wrong but i believe the oil pressure sensor doesn actually detect actual pressure readings, just when it drops below a certain threshold.

04-07-2012, 01:15 PM
Here's the deal with the oil pressure light. It could be any number of things but given the prevalence of it on the 1.8t this could be engine sludge issue. You really need to park this car until you can install an oil pressure gauge to confirm. Driving it with low oil pressure or a clog could destroy your engine. This is a writeup about both a gauge install and what the normal pressures are-

These two posts should give you an idea about the sludge issue. Google around to get a better idea.

I actually had problems with the oil pressure light but mine turned out to be nothing after I installed a gauge. Better safe than sorry.

04-07-2012, 02:59 PM
The oil pressure warning is NOT ACTIVE AT HOT IDLE. It just isn't. It will only warn you about low pressure above 1500 RPM or so. So your oil pressure problem isn't "only while driving", it is all the time.

The absolute FIRST step when you see an oil pressure warning is to STOP THE ENGINE, immediately. The NEXT step is to check the oil pressure (as in "with a gauge") against factory specification and known good values. This will tell you if you have a real oil pressure problem, or just a failed oil pressure switch. The overwhelmingly common cause for the warning is a clogged oil pickup screen which is starving the engine for oil during operation. Many, many a 1.8T has died a horrible, senseless, oil-starved death due to their owners continuing to drive them with an active oil pressure warning. Such owners can turn a $250 problem into a $2500 problem in just a few minutes of operation. Do not be that owner.

04-07-2012, 09:24 PM
Yeah, i don't play around with the oil pressure "dummy light", im not that owner, i parked it right when the light came on. i am going to install a pressure guage in it tomorrow so i will get get actual readings from the engine, but as far as that sludge problem goes, i hope its just a failed sending unit.
i just got the car, it had that smoking problem periodically and i found that the whole pcv system had fallen a part, the elbows and valve were all brittle and stopped up. i dont know much about past up keep habbits with it. but im trying to get everything back in correct working order. I DO know that the turbo has been replace right before i bought it.
but that is about all. i will check the oil pressure tomorrow, can you give me what the readings should be on that???
thanks a million!

04-07-2012, 09:35 PM
Just check my first link above about the gauge install it has the pressures. They are listed at the bottom of that writeup.

You shouldn't be too far off from those. The pressure shouldn't drop with more revs or continued rev increases.

04-07-2012, 09:43 PM
oh, and i found the readings on the link, nvmd bout that one. thanks agian!!!!!

04-08-2012, 04:25 PM
alright. i installed my oil pressure gauge... turns out i do have an actual oil pressure problem!? so i guess i should tare down oil pan and see what it looks like in there.

04-08-2012, 04:40 PM
alright. i installed my oil pressure gauge... turns out i do have an actual oil pressure problem!? so i guess i should tare down oil pan and see what it looks like in there.

that would be the first step. check that pickup screen, its most likely clogged. im guessing you got sludge issues. youll need to take the valve cover off to and check that but im guessing the oil pan is pretty sludged up. and ill give you an awesome tip. go get a can of zip strip. it melts sludge right off the pan. if its thick you may need to scrap it with a screw driver or something. maybe post some pics after you get that far

04-08-2012, 04:43 PM
ha, alright i will do that, but just wondering, is there a certain procedure to getting that pan off? it seems tricky just by lookin at it.

04-08-2012, 05:07 PM
ive never done it with a motor in the car but i guess its pretty easy if the subframe is dropped

04-08-2012, 05:37 PM
Just replace the pick up tube and o-ring for it. Since you have an 01, there is no gasket to replace. But you will need to pick up some Victor Reinz sealant.

http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=6169_6170_6186_6188_6726_89 65&info=Victor_Reinz_D176404A2_Gasket_Sealer_OEM&products_id=2340

This is how I did mine, but there are easier ways to do it.

1. Pick up a long 5mm hex key, such as this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bondhus-5MM-X-14-Inch-T-Handle-Hex-Key-16464-/300689740027?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item46028150fb#ht_500wt_949) (Just for show purposes, as you can find one for cheaper. But be sure it "does not" have a ball end.).
2. Jack up car and place on jack stands (leave enough room for you and enough to be able to slide a hydraulic jack under there, just in case)
3. Remove 3 bolts that attach snub mount cage to oil pan.
4. Remove all the little 5mm hex bolts that bolt the pan to the block. There are 2 hidden once that are reachable only through the flywheel. You will see 2 holes between the pan and bell housing on the transmission. The 2 hidden bolts are reached through there. What you need to do is turn the crank by socket and ratchet (can not recall what size. anywhere from 19-23mm). You can remove spark plugs and ignition coils to make turning it easier, but it isn't difficult to turn with them still plugged in. I had my front bumper off and front clip forward a bit when I did mine, so it was very easy for me to place a ratchet on there. If you don't do this, you may have trouble getting to the crank bolt. But you turn the crank while keeping an eye on the flywheel till a passage way opens up through the surface of the flywheel, leading to the 5mm hex bolt for the pan. Once you get the first one off, then get the second one out.
5. Lower your front subframe. You don't need to take the bolts out completely, but loosen them enough to have the subframe drop down.
6. After it drops down, you should have room to get to the bolts that hold the pan to the transmission bell housing. Can't recall the sizes. If you can't get at all the bolts or if the subframe gets in the way of removing the pan, continue. If you can, skip step #7.
7. You more than likely won't have enough room. What you want to do here is remove the transmission mounts from the frame and lower motor mount nuts. Then place your hydraulic jack along with wood prop (2x4 wood prop support) under your transmission and jack it up till you have enough clearance. Once your jack has too much tension, STOP. You don't want to break whatever is stopping you from jacking it up any higher. If you want to raise the engine higher, make clearance to do (ie first stop will be radiator fan on the shroud for it. if you move your front clip forward, you will now have clearance)
8. You should now be able to get to the rest of the bolts and pan should be able to slide fully out (oil level sensor should be disconnected on electrical part). between the pan and crank there is a plastic baffle plate. Be cautious of this and not break it. You need this to not make your oil splash from the sump, get thrown into the crank, and foam.
9. Once pan is off, you will see your oil pump and pick up tube at the front of the engine. The oil pump on the 06A rarely fails, so don't worry too much about that. I would suggest you replace the pick up tube (like $23 at dealership) and o-ring (like $3 at dealership). Others would say just clean the one you currently have.
10. Install in reverse. The job is really easy, even though it sounds complicated. It's just a major PIA doing.

Here is another thing you can try, courtesy of sean1.8t. Could fix your issue without all the hassle.

drain oil and fill engine with about 1-2 quarts of diesel fuel. take out coilpacks and spark plugs as well as remove the fuel pump fuse. then crank the engine for about 10-15 seconds about every hour, 6 times. then let sit overnight(at least 12 hours). then drain diesel, and by drain i mean leave it draining for a couple hours or you can flush it with some fresh oil. then fill back up and run REGULAR non synth oil and a cheap filter for about 50ish miles and drain again to replace with a good filter and full synth.

04-08-2012, 05:57 PM
Simple enough! thanks a lot. ill do it mechanically first. and then if I still have trouble with the oil pressure, ill do the diesel trick. thanks Seerlah

04-08-2012, 06:26 PM
You should actually try the diesel method first. The pick up tube replacement will fix your issue (99% your pick up tube is clogged). But if the diesel fuel method works, it will save you lots of trouble.

04-08-2012, 07:34 PM
which bolts do i need to loosen for the subframe, and how many are there?
i cant figure that one out. i only have three left to get out. but i cant reach them without lowering the sub frame. i cant seem to figure that part out.

04-08-2012, 07:50 PM
Thanks for taking my advice (sarcasm)!

There is one on each side towards the rear of the subframe. Then there should be 3 on each side by the front. Or maybe it was 2 [confused]. Have not done this in a while, so bear with me. They will be on there rather snug, so a breaker bar will become your friend here. But once they are loose, a regular ratchet with socket gets them loosened with ease.

04-08-2012, 07:59 PM
haha, i know, i know, i get that a lot. id rather just do it mechanically. it takes less time too;) But seriously, thanks for the advice, and the help.

04-08-2012, 08:15 PM
I agree with the OP. If I know the screen is clogged, I'm not going to be happy unless I fully clean it out physically. Just seeing the pressure go up with a diesel flush is not going to satisfy me. Maybe if the car was a quick flip for resale or some-such, but I still wouldn't feel right about it. That stuff gets so clogged in there sometimes, it's nasty.

Also, great job on the hasty fixing OP.

04-08-2012, 08:27 PM
I think the crap gets flushed out through the drain with the diesel fuel, though.

04-09-2012, 09:56 AM
ok, i have one bolt left that i cant get to, its one of those that are hidden by the fly wheel how do i get the front clip loose so that i can turn the engine???

04-09-2012, 10:10 AM
-Take front bumper off
-Remove the bumper shock bolts that bolt to the frame (T-45 I believe)
-Remove the 2 torx bolts located by the headlight on each side that mounts the front clip to the car

After this, you will be able to move the front clip forward enough to place a ratchet and socket onto the crank bolt. Just turn it till the slot opens up through the flywheel to get at the other bolt. And the good thing about this, you will now be able to jack your engine higher, by the transmission.'

So, you got one of the bolts through the flywheel out?

04-09-2012, 10:29 AM
You could probably just take the spark plugs out and turn it by the cam gear.

04-10-2012, 05:07 AM
yeah I already got one out using a hex socket, the other i had to use a t handle hex key, there wasn't enough room,
i spoke with an audi technician at the dealership, he said to change out that pick up tube, then put it all back together, then to dump some sludge eater in there; which i bought from them, run it at 2500 for about 30 minutes, shut it off, dump that, then replace with regular oil and change filter, run that for a day or two, then dump it again, change filter and replace with full synthetic. sound right?
by the way i did get that pan off, it was a pain, putting it all back together should be a breeze. thanks again for all the help guys.
oh, and i didn't have to turn the crank. the bolts were already clear. ;-)

04-12-2012, 08:52 AM
Yo, i got my car all back together, just put it on the road this morning, runs great! it was a freakin job!!!!
but it was well worth it, thanks for all the help!