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View Full Version : An $88 transmission service...would you trust it?!



IkeM
03-31-2012, 10:23 AM
Got this today as one of those "deal" sites and was thinking about it since I just bought the car at 62k miles and don't know if it has been done yet.

Wondering if you would entrust your car to a place like this...


http://www.getmyperks.com/publishers/entercom-portland/daily_deals/68751?label=entercom-portland&utm_campaign=20120331&utm_medium=email&utm_source=entercom-portland


Thanks!

bman005
03-31-2012, 10:37 AM
Got this today as one of those "deal" sites and was thinking about it since I just bought the car at 62k miles and don't know if it has been done yet.

Wondering if you would entrust your car to a place like this...


http://www.getmyperks.com/publishers/entercom-portland/daily_deals/68751?label=entercom-portland&utm_campaign=20120331&utm_medium=email&utm_source=entercom-portland


Thanks!
Notice where it states special fluids extra...The fluid in your trans is special and WILL cost you extra, a lot most likely. That 88 will 250-300 before you know it

IkeM
03-31-2012, 10:42 AM
Notice where it states special fluids extra...The fluid in your trans is special and WILL cost you extra, a lot most likely. That 88 will 250-300 before you know it

Yeah, that was another one of my qualms about it. Did I just really say "qualms"? ...

Street Nasty
03-31-2012, 11:21 AM
Mobil1 atf is actually good for our cars and is cheaper than the pentosin that goes on our cars. I would be more afraid about that place under filling your car. Go to a good indy shop that specializes in our cars and bring your own filter and fluid.

9Hooker
03-31-2012, 11:57 AM
4 quarts Redline GL$ 75w90, $~50, pump $9.99. Labor, free. No filters needed. Do not do what in the original post!

wootwoot
03-31-2012, 02:11 PM
Mobil1 atf is actually good for our cars and is cheaper than the pentosin that goes on our cars. I would be more afraid about that place under filling your car. Go to a good indy shop that specializes in our cars and bring your own filter and fluid.

Can anyone verify this? Pentosin is way too expensive but I have always been told to use OEM ATF fluid for this car.

bman005
03-31-2012, 02:13 PM
Can anyone verify this? Pentosin is way too expensive but I have always been told to use OEM ATF fluid for this car.

IIRC there are some people who have been using since the B5 days

DRAKLORE
03-31-2012, 02:27 PM
DO NOT DO THIS FOR TWO REASONS

Op didn't state if he is auto or manual, the link is talking about an automatic service....


NEVER EVER EVER MESS WITH USING NON OEM TRANSMISSION FLUID IN AN AUTOMATIC!!!

I think anyone with any kind of transmission rebuild experience will agree that the clutches and seals in the modern day automatic transmissions, will fail and turn to mush with the wrong fluid, for that reason always use OE fluid in an auto mastic

AS FAR AS MANUALS GO, use whatever fluid that meets OE spec, but never pay anyone to do it, you will most likely spend that 80$ just on fluid. Do yourself a favor and get motul 75w90 and call it a day, a fluid transfer pump is 10$ and there are plenty of DIY to
Make this job really easy to do yourself

This is just my experience and .02 after rebuilding hundreds of transmissions and performing more BG trans flushes than I'd like to remember

wootwoot
03-31-2012, 02:59 PM
Thx Drak

IkeM
03-31-2012, 04:03 PM
DO NOT DO THIS FOR TWO REASONS

Op didn't state if he is auto or manual, the link is talking about an automatic service....


NEVER EVER EVER MESS WITH USING NON OEM TRANSMISSION FLUID IN AN AUTOMATIC!!!

I think anyone with any kind of transmission rebuild experience will agree that the clutches and seals in the modern day automatic transmissions, will fail and turn to mush with the wrong fluid, for that reason always use OE fluid in an auto mastic

AS FAR AS MANUALS GO, use whatever fluid that meets OE spec, but never pay anyone to do it, you will most likely spend that 80$ just on fluid. Do yourself a favor and get motul 75w90 and call it a day, a fluid transfer pump is 10$ and there are plenty of DIY to
Make this job really easy to do yourself

This is just my experience and .02 after rebuilding hundreds of transmissions and performing more BG trans flushes than I'd like to remember

FTW.

I do have a manual transmission.

I didn't realize how simple it was to change. I just changed out my driver door latch mechanism this afternoon and feel pretty mechanically savvy. I'll look for a DIY and buy myself some motul.

Muchas Gracias.

IkeM
03-31-2012, 04:07 PM
Another question about motul.

Is this the stuff I am looking for? It says Motylgear 75w90 but is a third cheaper than the next lowest results.

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/motul-motylgear-75w90-transmission-fluid-liter-p-46226.html

bman005
03-31-2012, 04:08 PM
Depends, do you have auto or manual?

IkeM
03-31-2012, 04:10 PM
I have a manual. Like it says two posts up. [;)]

bman005
03-31-2012, 04:15 PM
I have a manual. Like it says two posts up. [;)]

Oops, sorry I missed that one. Really just about anything synthetic 75w90 is fine. I always use factory but I work at a dealer so my view may skewed a bit

9Hooker
03-31-2012, 04:24 PM
USE GL-4 in the transmission. GL5 will kill the soft metal in your synchros!

GL5 for rear diff, GL4 for transmission.

Street Nasty
03-31-2012, 04:25 PM
DO NOT DO THIS FOR TWO REASONS

Op didn't state if he is auto or manual, the link is talking about an automatic service....


NEVER EVER EVER MESS WITH USING NON OEM TRANSMISSION FLUID IN AN AUTOMATIC!!!

I think anyone with any kind of transmission rebuild experience will agree that the clutches and seals in the modern day automatic transmissions, will fail and turn to mush with the wrong fluid, for that reason always use OE fluid in an auto mastic

AS FAR AS MANUALS GO, use whatever fluid that meets OE spec, but never pay anyone to do it, you will most likely spend that 80$ just on fluid. Do yourself a favor and get motul 75w90 and call it a day, a fluid transfer pump is 10$ and there are plenty of DIY to
Make this job really easy to do yourself

This is just my experience and .02 after rebuilding hundreds of transmissions and performing more BG trans flushes than I'd like to remember

You can use non oem atf in automatics. I've been using it for my D2 A8 which is notorious for transmission failures and it has been running smooth for over 60k miles now (knock on wood). Transmission rebuilder azer Tozom8 also uses m1 for his rebuilds and changes with no problems whatsoever. M1 meets the same specs as Pentosin, except you can get it for cheaper.

IkeM
03-31-2012, 04:32 PM
USE GL-4 in the transmission. GL5 will kill the soft metal in your synchros!

GL5 for rear diff, GL4 for transmission.

On the Vivid Racing page, the description of the Motul 75w90 says "API GL4 and GL5" Is this not true?

IkeM
03-31-2012, 04:40 PM
Ah, just looked on ECS tuning's site and they are both GL4. The Gear 300 is 100% synthetic and seems to be sold more for track/hard core driving. The Motylgear is not 100% synthetic. Well, see for yourself...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v349/20VTURBO/gear300.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v349/20VTURBO/motylgear.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v349/20VTURBO/motylgear2.jpg

DRAKLORE
03-31-2012, 04:48 PM
You can use non oem atf in automatics. I've been using it for my D2 A8 which is notorious for transmission failures and it has been running smooth for over 60k miles now (knock on wood). Transmission rebuilder azer Tozom8 also uses m1 for his rebuilds and changes with no problems whatsoever. M1 meets the same specs as Pentosin, except you can get it for cheaper.

I agree that you can in some instances use non OEM fluid.... But I've found changing fluid even if it meets factory spec just the change in chemical composition can cause premature wear as it shocks the discs. Has different heat characteristics ect.
It's just someplace I wouldn't reccomend experimenting unless its been tried and true.
The problem is that most dealerships, shops ignore factory standards and specs in place of making the most off of the customer.

Again just my .02

bman005
03-31-2012, 05:38 PM
I agree that you can in some instances use non OEM fluid.... But I've found changing fluid even if it meets factory spec just the change in chemical composition can cause premature wear as it shocks the discs. Has different heat characteristics ect.
It's just someplace I wouldn't reccomend experimenting unless its been tried and true.
The problem is that most dealerships, shops ignore factory standards and specs in place of making the most off of the customer.

Again just my .02

Agreed. You'd be surprised how many shops ignore proper fluids, a lot of them seem to think its ok to put dexron with mercon in a VAG trans...it never ends well

DRAKLORE
03-31-2012, 05:45 PM
We used to put bulk 5w30 (the really really cheap stuff) in every single vehicle that came through the dealer for an oil change, The only exception was if they provided their own oil. (very rarely did people do this)
Of course we had some
Cheapo bulk diesel oil as well. Never once remember looking up specs or capacities lol

groundround
03-31-2012, 06:00 PM
DrRAK what dealership did you work at or shop?

DRAKLORE
03-31-2012, 06:11 PM
Augusta ford (quirk ford), Ray Haskell Ford, and My buddies race shop Piela Performance which recently went out of buisness :-(

Why? It's not like I had a say in the practices, I am
Willing to bet most shops operate using these practices.

bman005
03-31-2012, 06:31 PM
We used to put bulk 5w30 (the really really cheap stuff) in every single vehicle that came through the dealer for an oil change, The only exception was if they provided their own oil. (very rarely did people do this)
Of course we had some
Cheapo bulk diesel oil as well. Never once remember looking up specs or capacities lol

We have 5w30 syntec blend 5w40 syntec in bulk and have all the diesel oils, 5w20 and 10w30 (routan) in quarts, hell we even have a case of the old 15w40 in case an old (pre 95) comes in.

DRAKLORE
03-31-2012, 06:41 PM
What are you guys putting the 5w40 in?
I really miss getting my hands dirty, getting paid to do car stuff, even if it is the redundant recall and services 80% of the time.

I'm sure GR has some smartass comment to make

9Hooker
03-31-2012, 06:41 PM
GL-4; Specified for hypoid gear service under severe service but without shock loading. This classification is essentially obsolete but is still specified by some manual transmission/transaxle manufacturers. Implies an EP/AW additive package that contains 30% to 50% less S-P additives than the GL-5 service classification. Some Marine Gear Lubes fall into this classification, especially the full Synthetic Marine Gear lubes and specialty blenders MT lubes that use high levels of esters.

GL-5; Specified for hypoid gear service but with shock loads and severe service operation. Usually meets Mil-L-2105D and in most cases, is the multipurpose automotive gear oil. Most 75W90 to 75W140 grades meet the GL-5 classification. This grade has a high level of Extreme-Pressure additives that could be mildly corrosive to nonferrous parts, such as brass, bronze and aluminum parts. Most of the modern GL-5 lubes contain metal deactivators that prevents attacks by the extreme-pressure additives. In addition to EP additives, these lubes contain rust inhibitors, defoamants, friction modifiers, thickeners, and Viscosity Index Improvers.

gl5 = ferrous metals (rear diff)
gl4 = non ferrous metals (brass, synchros -> transmission)

bman005
03-31-2012, 07:08 PM
What are you guys putting the 5w40 in?
I really miss getting my hands dirty, getting paid to do car stuff, even if it is the redundant recall and services 80% of the time.

I'm sure GR has some smartass comment to make

The 2.5 vw engine calls for it and since it meets 502 00 standards we use it in the 2.0ts as well. I run the 5w40 in my car and at 114k it uses less than 1/2 quart in between 5k change intervals

Hey, redundant recalls can be money makers if you're flat rate. I have the flap motors down to 10minutes and pcvs to 5. 1.5-2 hrs in 15 minutes, I'll do that all do long $$$

DRAKLORE
03-31-2012, 07:11 PM
How is it working for a VW dealership?

I don't think I would ever work for a domestic shop ever again

bman005
03-31-2012, 07:20 PM
How is it working for a VW dealership?

I don't think I would ever work for a domestic shop ever again

I love it, I started at vw/audi/porsche, now at a VW only store. Its getting to be a lot more service work than it used to be with all the carefree stuff and the cars being built better. But still plenty of MILs to keep my mind busy