View Full Version : Pink Xenon
Simple question. Ballast or Bulb? CPO, so don't want to bring it in unless it will be covered. Google searches say Bulb is on its way out, The one tread I see in here says Ballast.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v703/JayPaulThompson/b331c3b3.jpg
Inked
03-24-2012, 09:25 PM
Ib4tL
Edit: my post doesn't make since now that the post that was above me mysteriously vanished cough*stokes*cough lol
You just need a new bulb, here's a good site http://www.xtralights.com/
jeffrey146
03-24-2012, 09:53 PM
^ That site doesn't sell OEM products. Just Chinese replacements. It can and probably will cause your ballast to fail.
I replaced both my bulbs from them lasted 3 years, then sold the car so i can at least say they worked for me the time frame that i had them.
hanceyman
03-24-2012, 10:06 PM
Just get OEM bulbs and be done with it. At least you know you're getting a quality bulb. Europaparts is the cheapest I could find when I had to get one. I think it was under $90 shipped.
If you want to try investigating a little more before you buy a new bulb, you can always swap the bulbs from side to side and see if the problem follows the bulb.
jeffrey146
03-24-2012, 10:15 PM
Be sure to buy REAL OEM bulbs. There are lots of copies out there.
Also buy two if you want the color to match. HID color shifts over time.
Just get OEM bulbs and be done with it. At least you know you're getting a quality bulb. Europaparts is the cheapest I could find when I had to get one. I think it was under $90 shipped.
Back 4 years ago i did not know about that website, seeing the price is the same, i dont blame you.
DRAKLORE
03-24-2012, 11:30 PM
"buy OEM it's amazing"-space Jesus
Really meow, OEM is best buy now mentality
Craziness, you are just racist agianst japanese society. This isn't 1940 Germany... Audi is not always best Jaa
co_pa
03-25-2012, 05:38 AM
^what shane said.
my chinese POS [sarcasm] bulbs have worked every day, no issue, for 4+ years. colors are even and have not faded over time. watch, this post just jinxed me and one will burn out. if it does, i'll blame this thread and wonder aloud to forum gods what the hell happened the b7 section.
^what shane said.
my chinese POS [sarcasm] bulbs have worked every day, no issue, for 4+ years. colors are even and have not faded over time. watch, this post just jinxed me and one will burn out. if it does, i'll blame this thread and wonder aloud to forum gods what the hell happened the b7 section.
My point exactly, but its user preference.
Sandeman
03-25-2012, 07:53 AM
Ib4tL
Look like a complete idiot btw
Sent from my iPhone4.
Inked
03-25-2012, 08:04 AM
Look like a complete idiot btw
Sent from my iPhone4.
Read my edit, the were some illegal activities going on a couple posts before mine and they vanished, so take it back lol
Thanks. I was kind of hoping it was the ballasts, so I could use CPO warranty. I haven't taken the bumper off yet.
If I do replace both I think I want to go with 5000k bulbs. Personally I think 6000k is too far.
It looks like Europa only has OEM, so the would be the 4300K. If I decide to stick with stock, I will get it from there, otherwise, it looks like it might have to be some Chinese import bulbs...
jeffrey146
03-25-2012, 09:06 AM
Thanks. I was kind of hoping it was the ballasts, so I could use CPO warranty. I haven't taken the bumper off yet.
If I do replace both I think I want to go with 5000k bulbs. Personally I think 6000k is too far.
It looks like Europa only has OEM, so the would be the 4300K. If I decide to stick with stock, I will get it from there, otherwise, it looks like it might have to be some Chinese import bulbs...
I strongly agree with the 6000k is too far. The higher you go up the more likely you are to get a ticket. I have 6000k because it came with the car but its just too blue.
Thanks. I was kind of hoping it was the ballasts, so I could use CPO warranty. I haven't taken the bumper off yet.
If I do replace both I think I want to go with 5000k bulbs. Personally I think 6000k is too far.
It looks like Europa only has OEM, so the would be the 4300K. If I decide to stick with stock, I will get it from there, otherwise, it looks like it might have to be some Chinese import bulbs...
personally in my opinion 6000k is the best, it's crystal white, vs 8000k witch is more of a blue. Just my opinion though.
doublezero30
03-25-2012, 10:47 AM
Thanks. I was kind of hoping it was the ballasts, so I could use CPO warranty. I haven't taken the bumper off yet.
If I do replace both I think I want to go with 5000k bulbs. Personally I think 6000k is too far.
It looks like Europa only has OEM, so the would be the 4300K. If I decide to stick with stock, I will get it from there, otherwise, it looks like it might have to be some Chinese import bulbs...
you dont need to take the bumper off. it took me 45 minutes to do both without removing the bumper. i got the 5000k ECS bulbs for $150 for the pair. So far so good after a couple months. i know its not a long time, but still i love em compared to OEM and my previous 6k bulbs. very slight blue tint but still give off plenty of light for my blind ass to see at night.
also, 6000k is NOT crystal white. its blue. 8000k is deep blue. 5000k gives off white light with a very slight blue tint when looking into the housing.
my 5k:
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f81/willard00/d2d2a530.jpg
hanceyman
03-25-2012, 10:50 AM
I think 4300k-5000k is perfect for that pure white look. Maybe 6000k if you want a tint of blue, but I think anything over that looks way too blue. Plus I'm pretty sure after 5000k the usefulness of the bulb goes down, and it will decrease your ability to see at night, but maybe not noticeably.
you dont need to take the bumper off. it took me 45 minutes to do both without removing the bumper. i got the 5000k ECS bulbs for $150 for the pair. So far so good after a couple months. i know its not a long time, but still i love em compared to OEM and my previous 6k bulbs. very slight blue tint but still give off plenty of light for my blind ass to see at night.
also, 6000k is NOT crystal white. its blue. 8000k is deep blue. 5000k gives off white light with a very slight blue tint when looking into the housing.
Yes My fault, did not mean crystal white, meant to say diamond blue, thankyou doublezero30.
here is a picture i fould
http://www.xtralights.com/categories/HID3colors.gif
you dont need to take the bumper off. it took me 45 minutes to do both without removing the bumper.
What all did you have to remove to get the bulbs out? It looks like the drivers side is easier...
New development. Or maybe it isn't... The bulb now doesn't come on, but it tries to, it flickers then never comes on. Still the blub? or maybe the ballast?
hanceyman
03-25-2012, 07:16 PM
The only true way to tell would be dropping the front bumper and swapping the bulbs from side to side to see what happens. When my ballast was going bad it caused the bulb to flicker and sometimes go out completely, but I think it's hard to tell without swapping the bulbs to isolate the problem.
doublezero30
03-25-2012, 07:20 PM
What all did you have to remove to get the bulbs out? It looks like the drivers side is easier...
drivers side is harder. on the drivers side you remove the washer resivoir (yes it will spill if full) and unbolt the PS resivoir and move it to the side. you can access the bulb that way. passenger side ou remove the airbox and its really easy to get to the bulb.
New development. Or maybe it isn't... The bulb now doesn't come on, but it tries to, it flickers then never comes on. Still the blub? or maybe the ballast?
still the bulb. the pink you see is due to the HID gas inside the bulb discharging and essentially "wearing out"
If you say the drivers side is easier... Then when I get home I will try swapping the bulbs across, just to get used to doing it. I already ordered a set of 5000K bulbs from ECS, so hopefully they will be in this week.
I was under the impression that it required bumper removal.
Guess I need to pick up a pump, to pump out the washer fluid.
Thanks everyone. Will post up my results tonight, if I try to swap them.
DRAKLORE
03-26-2012, 05:36 AM
^^^ that's only if your washer level is Gaithersburg than the first tank, which is unlikely if its been a while since filling. The top portion o the reservoir seperates from the bottom portion after removing those two screws. It simply pops up.
Ok... I tried to do this thing with the bumper on... Yeah, I don't think it's going to happen. I couldn't move the PS bottle very much, not enough to get a torx screwdriver in there to remove the two screws holding the access window closed. I was able to get to the passenger side, but reconnecting the wire was a pain (I didn't realize that the wire was wound through some plastic on the side, so I spent 35 minutes trying to reconnect the blub).
HOW DO PEOPLE GET THE DRIVER SIDE OUT WITHOUT REMOVING THE HOUSING????????
doublezero30
03-26-2012, 05:54 PM
Ok... I tried to do this thing with the bumper on... Yeah, I don't think it's going to happen. I couldn't move the PS bottle very much, not enough to get a torx screwdriver in there to remove the two screws holding the access window closed. I was able to get to the passenger side, but reconnecting the wire was a pain (I didn't realize that the wire was wound through some plastic on the side, so I spent 35 minutes trying to reconnect the blub).
HOW DO PEOPLE GET THE DRIVER SIDE OUT WITHOUT REMOVING THE HOUSING????????
exactly how i said. dont use a screwdriver, use a ratchet. told you the drivers side is harder, but certainly doable. the ps resivoir doesnt move much...but its enough. it may be helpfull to pull the connectors right next to it off of the holder to gain more room. i think i did that (cant remeber exactly). i also used a ziptie to hold it back so i had 2 hands free.
hanceyman
03-26-2012, 08:07 PM
The bumper removal way might almost be easier. It could take you a little while the first time, but after you do it a few times it gets much easier. The wheels stay on, the car can stay on the ground. All you need is a couple torx drivers, large flathead, and a 10mm socket with two extensions and you're golden.
exactly how i said. dont use a screwdriver, use a ratchet. told you the drivers side is harder, but certainly doable. the ps resivoir doesnt move much...but its enough. it may be helpfull to pull the connectors right next to it off of the holder to gain more room. i think i did that (cant remeber exactly). i also used a ziptie to hold it back so i had 2 hands free.
I will try it again when the new bulbs come in. I can see there being enough room if I use a torx socket instead of a screw driver... Once I saw that the harness wire can come off the plastic pinch pints, you can attach the harness before putting the bulb back in.