View Full Version : 01 A4 feeler

03-15-2012, 04:26 PM
Hey guys not sure if Im posting this in the right location or not. Please correct me if Im wrong. Anyway, got an o1 a4 1.8t (AWM) AT quattro with 105-106,000 on it. Car just started acting up. Ive got cylinder misfires on 3 and 4 and a random misfire fault. Had a fault for Engine sounds like a diesel and is shaking like crazy in the engine bay. Not sure if its bad coils or maybe a bent rod from misfire or what I dont have the time, patience or money to get into repairing it. What do you think the car would be worth in its current state?

03-15-2012, 05:06 PM
replace the coils. under $100 and less than 10 minutes of your time

03-15-2012, 05:28 PM
I'll give you $50 for her.

Just change the coils and you are 99% likely to have it running well again.

murdered APR a4
03-15-2012, 05:57 PM
X a million on everything replace the coils they aren't expensive and in that state 2 grand

03-15-2012, 06:14 PM
If you could get it to any parts store you could get us some codes. Something ignition related is prob it. I have had so many coil packs shit the bed on me.

03-15-2012, 07:45 PM
Did you already take it to the dealer for emissions? If not, they will replace the coils for free because of the recall.

03-16-2012, 07:52 AM
Had the following codes: p0300, P0303, P0304, P0011(cam tension), P01325, p01326, p01327(Knock). Car sat in my driveway for few weeks and the battery took a shit. All those codes were cleared because of the dead battery. When I put in a new battery and fire it up I get generic codes p0303, p0304 only, no knock codes, no cam tensioner codes. I swapped coils from 1 and 2 with 3 and 4 to see if the misfire followed the coils, but I still get miss on 3 and 4. Plugs show its been running rich, but that may be just from the few cold starts. If I remember correctly I think #3 plug was fuel soaked when I pulled it.

This thing sounds really bad and should probably not be idled let alone driven to the stealership. It could be valve noise from the lifters, but its sounds like the mini gun experiment on Mythbusters. I bought the car used and have no idea if it was taken to the dealer for coil issue. The coils are etched with a date that includes2003 on it so they are newer than the car, but that doesnt mean they were replaced after the recall. I will have to call the dealer and give them the VIN to see if it has had them replaced prior to my ownership.

I can see exposed wire in the coil wiring along the top of the valve cover. I wonder if maybe my signals are shorting out because of faulty wiring since the issue did not follow the coils when I swapped them around...

03-16-2012, 07:53 AM
Thanks for the insight everyone. I will definitely be checking with the dealer about the coils. Cant hurt to put new ones in it, esp if they are free.

murdered APR a4
03-16-2012, 09:03 AM
Yeah get that wiring fixed right, you may have just answered your own question....

03-16-2012, 09:14 AM
Multiple scenarios for what could possibly be wrong with this thing have gone through my head. Ive gone as far as thinking about finding the time to do a rebuild on it but have not found a "kit" for it in all my online searching adventures. Are there places I can obtain something like that if it needs it? Or would I be left to piece it all together myself?

03-16-2012, 12:01 PM
Update: I started messing with taking the "hard as plastic" heat shrink off of the coil wiring harness and said F@#$ this. I proceeded to then get access to the crank pulley to turn the engine over by hand. Once I had access I put cyl 1 at TDC measured the depth with a steel rod then marked it. I did the same for all cylinders and when I got to cyl 3 I had no movement. I thought maybe the metal rod got hung up on the spark plug threads or something, but this was not the case. Piston in cyl 3 is chillin like a villain while all the others move. I guess I narrowed down the reason for misfire, the cause for the wet plug, and why the engine sounded like a gatling gun. I wont know for sure what is happening inside that engine until it gets taken apart, but Im guessing the connecting rod is broken or broken from the underside of the piston. What do you think the chances are that the cylinder wall is not all bitched up? I also wonder what caused the thing to break. I did count the links between the cam gears and got 16 but i did not have the timing marks set to verify if one cam jumped a tooth.