Wetsanding

[FITZ TITS]

So I'm going to the junkyard to find a panel to practice on. Has anyone on here tired wetsanding? I know I should be using a paint meter, but I don't plan on doing this to my car yet. Just want to mess around and try my hand at it.

[kickr]

So I'm going to the junkyard to find a panel to practice on. Has anyone on here tired wetsanding? I know I should be using a paint meter, but I don't plan on doing this to my car yet. Just want to mess around and try my hand at it.

Then do exactly that.
Autopia & Youtube are your best friends.

I hope you do not just have a PC though.

[FITZ TITS]

Then do exactly that.
Autopia & Youtube are your best friends.

I hope you do not just have a PC though.
Believe it or not, I've seen a wetsanding job finished with a PC. Nonetheless, I'm looking to purchase a Flex 3401. Check these four videos out:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuYGtOyk-28&list=UUvqM4p5XKdXiug656WLmuOg&index=78&feature=plcp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8PvDksGSZw&feature=bf_prev&list=UUvqM4p5XKdXiug656WLmuOg&lf=plcp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EMZJQ6KKko&feature=bf_prev&list=UUvqM4p5XKdXiug656WLmuOg&lf=plcp

[FITZ TITS]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYXJje9hM0s&feature=bf_prev&list=UUvqM4p5XKdXiug656WLmuOg&lf=plcp

[kickr]

You can certainly use a PC, but the correction will not be as good as with a Flex or Rotary. It will take quite some time and effort, on top of what wetsanding requires, do get some good results.

[VroomVroom]

Good for you - have fun with the practice. If your budget (and space) allows, I'd recommend a few different scenarios - soft clear coat (any Japan-built Honda/Acura or Toyota/Lexus), hard clear coat (Audi, Benz, most BMW...Corvette and recent GM trucks, etc...), and single-stage (most 80's-90's Toyota trucks, especially white) finish. I'll suggest there's a bit of misleading info above. If you've got a newer-gen random-orbital (a la PC7424XP), there's no need to use a rotary. In fact, unless you're also using this process to become adept at rotary polishing, I'd totally recommend sticking to a good random-orbital. Many pro detailers out there have shelved their Makitas, DeWalts, and Hitachis simply because the newer r/a bufffers, pads, and polishes are just that good. You could argue that correction may still take a bit longer than using a rotary, but the margin of error is well worth it IMO.

FWIW, I'd recommend using good quallity paper - chintz here and you'll get wildly different results. 3M or Meguiars. Buy 1500, 2000, 2500, and 3000, and experiment on small sections to learn what each does. At first you'll want to start with 3000...even though you'll quickly realize that 2000 or 1500 will be necessary, before stepping back to 2500 and 3000 to reduce pigtails prior to polishing. Assuming you're using a random/orbital, make sure you've got a 3" or 3.5" backing plate, and experiment with some 4" pads. Lake Country PFW, yellow, and orange for the heavy lifting, and then white for jeweling. If you're experimenting with polishes, I also recommend Megs 105 & 205. You can also add #85, but IME 105 with PFW will do all the heavy work you'll ever need....if it's worse than that, you're looking at a repaint anyway. :) If you're using Menzerna...have your pad cleaning brush ready, and wait for warm temps...again, IME/IMO.

Good luck and have fun!

[FITZ TITS]

Good for you - have fun with the practice. If your budget (and space) allows, I'd recommend a few different scenarios - soft clear coat (any Japan-built Honda/Acura or Toyota/Lexus), hard clear coat (Audi, Benz, most BMW...Corvette and recent GM trucks, etc...), and single-stage (most 80's-90's Toyota trucks, especially white) finish. I'll suggest there's a bit of misleading info above. If you've got a newer-gen random-orbital (a la PC7424XP), there's no need to use a rotary. In fact, unless you're also using this process to become adept at rotary polishing, I'd totally recommend sticking to a good random-orbital. Many pro detailers out there have shelved their Makitas, DeWalts, and Hitachis simply because the newer r/a bufffers, pads, and polishes are just that good. You could argue that correction may still take a bit longer than using a rotary, but the margin of error is well worth it IMO.

FWIW, I'd recommend using good quallity paper - chintz here and you'll get wildly different results. 3M or Meguiars. Buy 1500, 2000, 2500, and 3000, and experiment on small sections to learn what each does. At first you'll want to start with 3000...even though you'll quickly realize that 2000 or 1500 will be necessary, before stepping back to 2500 and 3000 to reduce pigtails prior to polishing. Assuming you're using a random/orbital, make sure you've got a 3" or 3.5" backing plate, and experiment with some 4" pads. Lake Country PFW, yellow, and orange for the heavy lifting, and then white for jeweling. If you're experimenting with polishes, I also recommend Megs 105 & 205. You can also add #85, but IME 105 with PFW will do all the heavy work you'll ever need....if it's worse than that, you're looking at a repaint anyway. :) If you're using Menzerna...have your pad cleaning brush ready, and wait for warm temps...again, IME/IMO.

Good luck and have fun!

WOW great advice here; nice post. I'll definitely be getting a bottle of 105 and 205, and I'm going to use the Meg's paper as well.