(DavidAAG) - K0R-GT Turbo Build

[DavidAAG]

Ya some light but after all said and done and had to spend well over a thousand dollars thanks to labor. I guess my luck is the worse ever.

[seal66]

yo whats new with your car?

[drumnjuny]

1000$ due to labor to change a HPFP!??? did i miss / forget something...?

[DavidAAG]

I wish I had something good to say but after I spent $1,300 for labor from RAI telling me everything will be free when I get there cuz my eurodyne meth kit wasn't working properly; they then supposedly fixed it and found another problem injectors.

I told them ok just buy 1 s3 injector for me on the cylinder that's not working and they overnight it. Ok fine around $200 there. Then they found another problem my APR hpfp isn't working and that's where they stole the other $1000. Trying to make that work they said he spent well over 10 hours when I was sitting in the lobby for like 9 of those hours.

All he ended up doing was giving me a stock fuel pump which is bullshit. I could have bought myself a hpfp with this fucked up labor price they gave me of like 11 hours. I feel RAI dicked me over just as bad as redline speedworx. I spent a shit load of money with both companies for them to play me like this.

So as for my car I literally never had it running ever since I bought this turbo which I feel was a year ago. Still on my stock pump cuz I sent my messed up hpfp to redline where I bought it and its been a month and a half since I heard from them. So ya that's how my car is now and has been. Just extremely slow for a shit ton of money.

If anyone has a hpfp laying around or internals "I don't care what brand I'm desperate" please let me know with a good price cuz I don't have anymore money to spend on my car knowing I bought everything I need and half of those parts u can say I paid for twice with the fucked up labor prices I've paid.

And there is the story of my car lol. Sorry been so down lately about my car that I open this app maybe once every 2 weeks now when I used to be on this once every 2 hours.

[drumnjuny]

sorry to hear man. honestly, i don't know how a hpfp could take 10 hours to diagnose... unfortunately it seems there aren't many shops to be trusted nowadays. people are just out for money and hold no responsibility over what happens...... i can't wait until my car is running right! then i'll finally feel slightly less ripped off lmao... but i feel your pain bud.

and i also totally understand not wanting to be on AZ much. shit i totally forgot AZ existed for the month after my car died.

[shiro1745]

Wow, that's sad and I'm sure frustrating as hell. What's wrong with the APR HPFP, have you talked to APR? Did they look at it? I sent mine back once and they checked it for free, I only had to pay for shipping. Nothing was wrong with mine, I think I said this before but I've been told they offer lifetime warranty for their internals.

In an ideal world I guess it's best to DIY everything possible and not let anybody work on your car. I've learned so much in the past couple years about this platform but I still have tons to learn, specially since I was useless when it came to cars. I'm really happy I got the vag-com cable long time ago.

[Operator]

I'm really not pleased with the word I've been getting from all sorts of shops and how they've treated my fellow zine'ers. Not sure why RAI would charge you and still not have your car fixed.... And redline should have sent have simply sent your pump back to APR..... RAI I'd think would have a upgraded HPFP they could have troubleshot with. But yeh, $1k in labor to not have a working car is not legit!!!! PM AudiTFSI3o3 he may have some internals he could sell you to get a working upgraded HPFP. Really stinks hearing you are still having problems!!!

[fordyoz]

only read the cliff notes version here but, wow. pretty horrible man, im sorry.
so is it just a fueling issue..a tuning issue?

all i have to say about HPFP's and RAI is that Ray told me that i was getting significant fuel cuts with my current pump and that i would need a new one. i said i didnt have the money for it at the moment and i would play it safe until i could afford a new one. i took the car home, drove it harder and harder gaining more confidence in the pump each day. eventually made the tune more aggressive, and still no fuel cuts. pump is seemingly fine. take it for what its worth. 3 weeks, no fuel cuts. only issue i have is cold starts take at least 5 seconds to turn over.

[shiro1745]

only read the cliff notes version here but, wow. pretty horrible man, im sorry.
so is it just a fueling issue..a tuning issue?

all i have to say about HPFP's and RAI is that Ray told me that i was getting significant fuel cuts with my current pump and that i would need a new one. i said i didnt have the money for it at the moment and i would play it safe until i could afford a new one. i took the car home, drove it harder and harder gaining more confidence in the pump each day. eventually made the tune more aggressive, and still no fuel cuts. pump is seemingly fine. take it for what its worth. 3 weeks, no fuel cuts. only issue i have is cold starts take at least 5 seconds to turn over.

I'm gonna say this every time I get the chance, didn't RAI fixed this issue? Or was all that just a big lie?

[ericpaulyoung]

I had no cold start issues with my S3 K04 and RS4 injectors, and that was with a tube that started from RAI. Granted it waste used by myself about 200 times, but I didn't have to mess much with the fueling that RAI had setup. Take that for what it is worth.
Eric

[fordyoz]

I'm gonna say this every time I get the chance, didn't RAI fixed this issue? Or was all that just a big lie?
today mine took a solid 10 seconds to start up no joke

[DavidAAG]

Redline should have been sent it but when I called last week they said hurricane sandy hit them bad so they don't know if they sent it. Which is bullshit cuz I gave them the pump a month before that. And for RAI, Ray specifically might seem like he's helping and a very nice guy. But I learned that he just cares about money and his shop. So ya I wish I could learn how to do everything on my car by myself. It's just damn why do I need to when I've done paid for everything nearly twice for me then having to do it myself. That's just poop.
As for my tune I have maestro and only played with it once then never again. I think it's gotten used to my stock pump but I'm having hell of a fuel cut every time I tried to push it. I def will pm that guy for those internals. Hopefully good price. Thanks everyone for always being better than these damn expensive ass shops.

Just wondering tho, is there any tune that can act like I don't have an upgraded turbo like a stage II+. So I can be able to not be slower then every car on the road. I know these damn stock pumps are very very limited but maybe with maestro it's possible. And idk if this matters but I never ever filled my meth tank. It's just there for looks basically. Bad? Or doesn't matter?

[fordyoz]

I had no cold start issues with my S3 K04 and RS4 injectors, and that was with a tube that started from RAI. Granted it waste used by myself about 200 times, but I didn't have to mess much with the fueling that RAI had setup. Take that for what it is worth.
Eric

get offline and finish your car will ya!

[DavidAAG]

Oh ya and lately my car takes like 5 seconds to start or longer when cold. But when warm starts right away or in like a second or 2.

[ericpaulyoung]

Try changing the cat cold start warmup and see if anything changes.

[ericpaulyoung]

get offline and finish your car will ya!

Three on the fluidampr and some accessories last night. Only a couple days away!!

[AudiTFSI3o3]

damn man just read all of this. i definitely feel your pain man. are you getting any codes with the fuel cuts? as for cold startup issues I'm surprised it hasnt been mentioned but have you replaced your purge valve? I was having some start up problems back in the day, replaced the gas cap - went away for a bit then came back. replaced the purge valve and have not had startup issue since. like I said in the PM I have my Stage 2 pump from HPFPupgrade laying around, but I'm not sure if the pump is 100% functional

[DavidAAG]

Try changing the cat cold start warmup and see if anything changes.

I would find that somewhere in maestro? Do I finally get to use it for something?

[DavidAAG]

damn man just read all of this. i definitely feel your pain man. are you getting any codes with the fuel cuts? as for cold startup issues I'm surprised it hasnt been mentioned but have you replaced your purge valve? I was having some start up problems back in the day, replaced the gas cap - went away for a bit then came back. replaced the purge valve and have not had startup issue since. like I said in the PM I have my Stage 2 pump from HPFPupgrade laying around, but I'm not sure if the pump is 100% functional

I'm def down with taking it and trying it. Pm sent. Guess ill look into the purge valve if not to expensive. After trying what epy said.

[AudiTFSI3o3]

http://media.europaparts.com/catalog/product/cache/1/image/cd6085ca2ccd08373d4b6de971808fb4/0/6/06e906517a.jpg

less than $20 at Europa

http://www.europaparts.com/purge-valve-06e906517a.html

[drumnjuny]

today mine took a solid 10 seconds to start up no joke

yep me too. when its 20 deg, it literally takes 7-10 seconds. when its warm, starts up immediately!

[ericpaulyoung]

The setting is in maestro. I would through in the purge valve too. I had to replace mine last year also.

[DavidAAG]

Cool will try the maestro today and purge valve ill buy this week or next.

[shiro1745]

Let us know if the maestro thing changes anything.

[DavidAAG]

Well I posted something like 3 days ago but I guess it didn't go thru (confused). In other news I got my internals in the mail today thanks to Jhad another az'er. Ended up going with autotech hpfp internals fingers crossed they work cuz they are used.

As I was about to buy everything to install my internals I saw there's quite the process to take off our fuel pump safely so ill once again let a "professional" take my money :-/. All of this was all gonna go down today but nothing is really open other then autozone and idk anyone else that knows how to mess with our cars.

So I guess Monday is the day maybe Tom. but tomorrow is the day of my first little car meet/show at bear creek ski resort. Was gonna be very excited to hopefully have my car running finally but I have to keep being patient.

[Operator]

Eh, you can still enjoy the show!!!

[DavidAAG]

Well internals went good so far I'm guessing. The car starts which is a +. But now cylinder 3 is misfiring when boosting. When I took care of it at RAI it was cylinder 2. Trying not to give up here. So I'm taking it back to my shop and having them either switch my s3 injectors for RS4s or having them switch the 3rd cylinder injector to another spot and see if it follows and if does I guess I have to buy an s3 injector again.

[Operator]

Why jump straight to injectors? Did you already rule out Plugs, and coils?

[DavidAAG]

Yup did checked it all before they went to injectors.

[Jhad]

Glad to hear its running at least. Let me know if there is another local car show or gtg, I'll roll up that way.

[DavidAAG]

Glad to hear its running at least. Let me know if there is another local car show or gtg, I'll roll up that way.

Yessir. Will do.

[DavidAAG]

Ok so first amazing news I've heard. Car is running and not misfiring in any cylinder for the first time ever!!! But literally boosting like crazy and not so much dialed in yet. This was all fixed by me buying my 3rd s3 injector. So now I just need to learn how to take care of my boost then the dynoing and drag strip numbers come!! :-) thanks to cbtuning.

This guy doesn't mess around. He's literally the owner/mechanic and its only 2 ppl that work there. Hopefully I can run epy's kind of conservative tune that holds around 20-22lb of boost. After I try that I think I'm good to go!!! Wish me luck.

[Operator]

This guy doesn't mess around. He's literally the owner/mechanic and its only 2 ppl that work there. Hopefully I can run epy's kind of conservative tune that holds around 20-22lb of boost. After I try that I think I'm good to go!!! Wish me luck.

Did he just edit a file for you, or is it one of his? Just don't want you to have ecu issues.

[DavidAAG]

Did he just edit a file for you, or is it one of his? Just don't want you to have ecu issues.

Didn't get anything from him yet. Just waiting to see if he would hopefully do me this favor. And I def. won't do it if our ecu doesn't match. I remember u telling me that. If that is the case I'm just gonna try to tweak it myself.

[DavidAAG]

Quick update. Check engine light still been on and I finally went to look at the code which usually is a cylinder misfire ended up being an o2 sensor. Sensor 1 which controls my fueling :-/. So been driving like this for a while now.

Hopefully after I get that taken care of which is $200 for the sensor and not sure for labor price I can finally tune it and have a racekor!!! Just been tired of never being able to pass 4,000rpm while I'm driving. Really sucks. I wish someone whose gone thru same problem can let me know how they solved theirs. But if I'm only one and someone does go thru same problem ill let them know what happens after my tune revision.

[ericpaulyoung]

Buy the universal O2 sensor and cut it in. You will be in for a total of less than $100.
- Eric

[DavidAAG]

Nice. Where do I find that??

[ericpaulyoung]

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4-Quattro-2.0T/Engine/Emissions/Oxygen_Sensor/ES2532224/

[mec]

I suggested this once, and someone told me that they would not recommend it because the quality or length, some characteristic of the wire is critical to the information, and by cutting and soldering you are modifying that so you get inaccurate results. Again I have no experience but that's what some stranger told me.

[DavidAAG]

Thanks again. Looks like ill be saving more than I thought!!! But how was your experience with it epy. Mec has me thinking about it a bit but I love the price savings..

[mec]

Check out autohausaz.com if I remember correctly they had 02 sensors for like 140

[ericpaulyoung]

I have never had to replace one yet, but I will try the universal when I do. The thing is like Martin says, you have to do a clean install. As long as you solder the connections and use shrink wrap, you are fine. Look at it that's way, Bosch makes both the universal and the car specific setups, and the only difference is that Bosch soldered on a connector and charges you over a hundred dollars for the connector. As long as you still buy Bosch, and solder tge connections, it should be the same. If you use twisty ties or crimps, you are asking for trouble.
Eric

[mec]

David I looked into your options.

There is a repair kit for the lambda prove before catalyst, 02 sensor pre cat
1K0 998 262 N

I have no clue how legit it is but it appeared in the parts catalogue, might be worth looking into
regular part number is
06E 906 265 S

Here is a replacement from Walker - $135
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=wab225ba4mwdo0nmheto5u45&pn=W0133-1894476,W0133-1888175,&oep=06E%20906%20265%20S

[choochb5]

The front O2 is 5 wire and the rear is 4 wire. Bosch lists their 17030 as a front replacement. I just ordered one from Amazon, $75. Hopefully it's the right one. By chance there is a review for it from a B7 owner.

http://www.boschautoparts.com/VehiclePartFinder/Pages/VehiclePartFinder.aspx

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-17030-Oxygen-Sensor-Fitment/dp/B000JZEXCM

[DavidAAG]

Thanks guys. Hopefully can have car fully running by next weekend. On a good note. Finally got to redline the car. Wasn't able to pass 4,000 rpm for like 10 months.

[mec]

Dooode check out Vwvortex the b6 a4 classifieds have some o2's for $50, some guy named morzechowski

[DavidAAG]

Are they the same as b7s front o2 sensors?

[mec]

He listed the part number you could cross list it with what you have but if I recall correctly Audi has been. Using the same sensor since the b5

[mec]

This is the specific part number that the parts catalogue says you need. Apparently you need a kit, not just the harness.

https://importecautoparts.com/parts/part_number/1K0%20998%20262%20N/3

This website doesn't have the specific part number, but you may want to give them a call since they have so many 02 sensors at incredible prices

https://www.germanautosupply.com/store/volkswagen-vw/oxygen-sensor.html?p=1

[DavidAAG]

Update:
O2 sensor fixed and no more check engine light. But I kinda want it back cuz I'm kinda still misfiring. But car has been a blast still. Thanks to eurodyne and ericpaulyoung. Eurodyne has given me the injector correction and injector constant for my s3 injectors so more running stock info for maestro, and EPY helped me a while back by giving me his like 50th revision (when he had k04) which I used his boost duty info and maximum VE info to put into my car with maestro. And it's driving better then its ever have. I can finally redline it and all. K0R is pretty beastly when everything is almost done.

Although I am looking for another CEL to pop up, my mechanic still pulled up a code. And it was for my lpfp. Not sure what else I can change on my maestro or my bmp+ to fix this but I'm working on it with eurodyne or I might just have to by a new lpfp. Maybe me over boosting like I am has something to do with this but I'm not sure. I blast by my set settings of 20lb boost and hit over 25lbs but just from 2700-3200 rpm on 3rd gear. Then it's just steady at 20lbs where it's supposed to be.

Hopefully I find what the problem is and can adjust it either on my bmp+ or my maestro to then be able to finally dyno it and show u guys 300awhp on a tip with no upgraded internals. K0R power!!!

[DavidAAG]

Wtf is this light. Popped up after I hit a bump. I hope it's not bad. 16737

[ericpaulyoung]

flying spagetti monster light

[mec]

Wtf is this light. Popped up after I hit a bump. I hope it's not bad. 16737

brake wear

[CorneliusRox]

Wtf is this light. Popped up after I hit a bump. I hope it's not bad. 16737


brake wear

Yup, get ready for a $200 bill! That's what mine was for Hawks

[ericpaulyoung]

I bought Autozone pads for like $40 or something, and oddly enough they work pretty damn well. [confused]

[DavidAAG]

I'll buy the autozone pads. I really wasn't happy when I seen this problem. I thought I ruined the car and I'm fu**ed but turned out to be something I expected sooner or later. Thanks guys.

[DavidAAG]

Ok. If this car doesn't start working properly. I'm going to part out. (And I don't want that) I need a new tune. I'm spiking at over 25lb boost and I for sure shouldn't be doing that. I would love to learn how to use maestro but it seems like no one really knows except EPY. If anyone can help finish this would be greatly appreciated. I think I'm having problems with my lpfp if anyone has one for sale ill take it. At a reasonable price of course.

[seal66]

What issues do you have besides the spiking? Do you have Maestro logs?

[DavidAAG]

That's a good question. I think my lpfp is no good or maybe the tune isn't. But my CEL is on and it's for my lpfp I think. Cuz that's what it was when it popped up before. I didn't double check it yet cuz it went away then popped up again. But stayed there for weeks and hasn't gone away. I have some logs I also can make new ones if needed. Just need this taken care of.

[choochb5]

Are you running the BMP? There's been some talk about people having problems with it. Post a log (screen capture if possible, easier to read), boost duty map and max ve map.

[DavidAAG]

Ya I'm running BMP. Has it not been running properly for everyone else? And I will send screen shot soon.

[DavidAAG]

1681616817

[seal66]

Ya I'm running BMP. Has it not been running properly for everyone else? And I will send screen shot soon.

Yes. Arjun and a few other peoples are having bad luck with the bmp and the LPFP. I would disconnect the bmp for the lpfp and let the ECU handle the low side and see what happens

[Operator]

As per the tune, I'd see if United Motorsports would help you with Maestro. I think they are somewhat local.

[drumnjuny]

yeah i've been having issues. chris tapp is going to send me a new base file, and i'm going to redo all the wiring for the BMP with higher gauge wiring.

is that your boost duty map?? your scale must be backwards for mine, more boost is at the bottom of the chart for me... aka mine is the opposite.

[choochb5]

What is the BMP controlling? Boost and fuel? That boost duty map just looks like the generic one. Both maps can be tweaked to help with the boost spike. Can you post a log? We need to know the n75 duty cycle after your boost spike. I'm not a pro but I could share what I did to tune my boost spike out.

[DavidAAG]

Yes. Arjun and a few other peoples are having bad luck with the bmp and the LPFP. I would disconnect the bmp for the lpfp and let the ECU handle the low side and see what happens

How would I disconnect that for my lpfp?


As per the tune, I'd see if United Motorsports would help you with Maestro. I think they are somewhat local.

How local do u think? Cuz my mechanic is all about unitronic. He doesn't know much about maestro. And I'm not try to drive to Baltimore and New Jersey anymore cuz the mechanic I have now knows his shit but this is new to him.



yeah i've been having issues. chris tapp is going to send me a new base file, and i'm going to redo all the wiring for the BMP with higher gauge wiring.

is that your boost duty map?? your scale must be backwards for mine, more boost is at the bottom of the chart for me... aka mine is the opposite.

Is there a reason for ours being opposite? Eric Paul Young kinda helped me with my tune. I just copied and pasted his max ve, and boost duty. And eurodyne gave me the injector correction for the s3 injectors.



What is the BMP controlling? Boost and fuel? That boost duty map just looks like the generic one. Both maps can be tweaked to help with the boost spike. Can you post a log? We need to know the n75 duty cycle after your boost spike. I'm not a pro but I could share what I did to tune my boost spike out.

How do I post a log. I can send u my log to your email or something. I logged my car like 2 months ago. Ima log it once more tonight and ill send it to your email if u pm your email.

[drumnjuny]

idk why... my higher duty is at the bottom (red) instead of the top...

[mec]

idk why... my higher duty is at the bottom (red) instead of the top...

click the map a few times, it will change orientation.


David, if you disconnect the AUX on the BMP that disconnects the fuel pump. However, I would assume that the ECU connection to the LPFP has been removed or blocked to make the BMP work. So disconnecting it may not work. we should be checking Arjun's in a few weeks, we can let you know.

[DavidAAG]

click the map a few times, it will change orientation.


David, if you disconnect the AUX on the BMP that disconnects the fuel pump. However, I would assume that the ECU connection to the LPFP has been removed or blocked to make the BMP work. So disconnecting it may not work. we should be checking Arjun's in a few weeks, we can let you know.

Cool. Let me know then what u guys see. Hopefully something that lets us keep our bmp. Not have to sell it and get another meth kit.

[mec]

Cool. Let me know then what u guys see. Hopefully something that lets us keep our bmp. Not have to sell it and get another meth kit.

You can keep the bmp and use it for just meth, don't have to hook up fuel to it.

[DavidAAG]

You can keep the bmp and use it for just meth, don't have to hook up fuel to it.

That's cool with me. Can that be done now. And have the car run right? Like will the bmp still know to use meth if I unplug the AUX or whatever u guys plan on doing with Arjun's car. Cuz whatever I suggested I will do cuz how desperate I am.

[mec]

That's cool with me. Can that be done now. And have the car run right? Like will the bmp still know to use meth if I unplug the AUX or whatever u guys plan on doing with Arjun's car. Cuz whatever I suggested I will do cuz how desperate I am.

Try it. unplug aux and try to drive. I'm not sure how RAI hooks it up on the harness. Worst that can happen is your car dies and you rehook it up.

[DavidAAG]

Try it. unplug aux and try to drive. I'm not sure how RAI hooks it up on the harness. Worst that can happen is your car dies and you rehook it up.

So just unhook where it says aux on that black box that they put in my glove box? In the front or back? Even tho I see wires mostly plugged in the front.

[mec]

on the front, not hte main port, but on the front there is three connections, remove the wires to aux, that is the lpfp.

[DavidAAG]

Alright. Will do. Ima try that now. Lets see how this turns out. Only problem I have is that it seems the front only has one main port. 1682216823

[mec]

Then the rear has three ports. Unplug aux

[drumnjuny]

GREAT NEWS!!! got this message back from Andrew today about the LPFP wiring:

"Yes all the factory wiring is still intact, if u pull the fuel pump cover youll just have to cut the overlay for bmp out and reconnect the factory wires"


boom. unfortunately doing what you're doing will just cause the LPFP to be unplugged but luckily both wires are intact, so we can build a switch for the LPFP, or go back and forth with relative ease...

[mec]

That's good news!

[drumnjuny]

yeah and i asked specifically for the "usual" way they install the BMP so as to make sure it applied to both of us. now that i think of it; what a pain it would be to undo all the stock wiring haha. it was probably easier to just leave it hanging

[DavidAAG]

Went to my shop today and looks like we're cracking down on the problem. Tried to turn down the boost on my bmp and it didn't do anything so as for bmp I wish I never had gotten it cuz all it is and ever will be just a meth kit in my car. As for maestro he turned the boost down to like 10lbs and it sorta worked. I am still passing requested boost but it stops at around 17lbs and redlined perfectly fine.

CEL popped up again tho and it is my lpfp. It's still decently running but it's about go, that's what it seems like. Luckily Chris (Owner and mechanic of CBTuning) is dealing with eurodyne a bit now and might get me a new better file from the guy that makes our base files. Forgot his name but main dude from Tapp. I think it might be Chris also. So basically to say my car is running decent on low boost. As soon as the tune is all squared away I plan on having a steady 21lb boost. Crossing my fingers.

[ericpaulyoung]

Everybody with Maestro tuning that is having overboost problems, import the following boost duty map and see if this helps. It is just a starting point but should keep you under control a bit more. You will have to work out the fine tuning for each ride, but at least you won't have the funky crap map that seem to come with the base file. After a run of fine tuning it should still have the same general smooth top peaked shape. Each ride is different, but at least the shape is right starting point.

Also, when you try it out, TAKE IT SLOW. Don't just go out and floor it. Let the car adapt, and work your way up to see if the car likes it. Take it to half throttle, then 3/4, then WOT.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0dO8JDytq50eW1OOHlQTjFDM28/edit?usp=sharing

[DavidAAG]

Thanks man. That's what I like to hear. Getting closer and closer to success I can taste it lol.

[DavidAAG]

Everybody with Maestro tuning that is having overboost problems, import the following boost duty map and see if this helps. It is just a starting point but should keep you under control a bit more. You will have to work out the fine tuning for each ride, but at least you won't have the funky crap map that seem to come with the base file. After a run of fine tuning it should still have the same general smooth top peaked shape. Each ride is different, but at least the shape is right starting point.

Also, when you try it out, TAKE IT SLOW. Don't just go out and floor it. Let the car adapt, and work your way up to see if the car likes it. Take it to half throttle, then 3/4, then WOT.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0dO8JDytq50eW1OOHlQTjFDM28/edit?usp=sharing

But I forgot to ask u. What is the boost set to on this file?

[ericpaulyoung]

The boost requested is set in the MaxVE table, the boost duty file just sets limits as to how your boost duty can respond. Most (or I should say all) base files I have seen basically have zero response surface to them, so when your system first sees an underboost (you not meeting the first couple requested points) it calculates a value of duty and looks in the boost duty map to see if it can use it. In all the boost duty files I have seen from every single professional tuner out there allow the duty to max out, then the boost overshoots (this is the boost spike), and then the system starts back peddling as fast as it can to bring the boost down, and it undershoots. This make no sense to me.

Anyway, what I am trying to say is the boost is set by a combination of things, but given a specific torque level requested, the boost should respond by a combination of the max VE and the boost duty table. Each car is different, so my version 35 boost duty and max VE tables produce a pretty smooth 24 psi ON MY CAR, WITH A GTX2863. So on a car with a Kor and a different max VE table, it will be different. But it will most likely be 100% better starting point then the cliff table I see everywhere. Do a 1/2 throttle smooth accelleration from 2k to 5k rpms, and see how the system is responding. Then adjust the maps accordingly. If you get wild behavior, you can always go back to the old map :)

Eric

[ericpaulyoung]

Tell your tuner you want them to use the EPY map shape! ;) Start a name for myself, LOL

- Eric

[DavidAAG]

Hahaha that what it should def. be called. I'm going to do that first thing Tom. morning cuz I'm excited about this. If possible, anyway that u can tell me how to turn the boost down to 22 or 21. Just don't want something bad happening cuz I don't have a built motor like u do. Would love to tho.

[DavidAAG]

I really am going to recommend this as a base tune for when he uses eurodyne for other customers if u don't mind. And if this runs smooth of course. How's your car treating u right now? Is it insanely way faster than your ko4?

[ericpaulyoung]

Sure thing. I am happy that all the lessons learned from blowing up my K04 is going to good use to help others. So definitely give it away to everyone in the community! The more we share with each other the better it will get :)

If you want to keep the boost requested below 21, just make sure your max VE table doesn't request anything above 210, and you will get approx around 20 psi. I find each car is a little different depending on the optimum torque and a bunch of stuff, but this will get you there.

It really is a bit of art when you go tuning, and it just takes time to sit down and really study the logs to get each car running tops. I am just finishing up with a customer on his GT30 build on stock rods, and he requested a very nice boost response from 18 psi up to 21 at redline, and he is sitting right now with a little over 17 psi up to 20 psi at redline, and I am sure he is moving pretty fast :)

It just takes time to fine tune each car, and to go about it right. After doing a lot of expensive damage to my own car, I decided to only approach things in a safe fashion, so I only approach the power level from the bottom up, where most tunes I see are a bit of a hack job where timing and boost requests are way high, then they are brought back down to a kinda safe level. This means there is likely a lot of damage already done to the car :/ I don't like that.

Eric

[ericpaulyoung]

The V35 map above is for a specific GTX setup. I made some minor corrections to that map to make it a better starter map, so try this sucker out as a starter point, and make sure the you are requesting in your max VE table something like the following
100 up to 2250 rpms
115 @ 2500
120 @ 2750
175 @ 3300
210 @ 3500
and keep it flat at 210 for all the other points up to redline

Then use this boost duty map, and that should be a good start. Remember to start slow to see how your car responds (i.e., it is not peaking bad). Then work your way up, take logs and make adjustments as necessary.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0dO8JDytq50N2tpX2d1SlNEaUk/edit?usp=sharing

[DavidAAG]

The V35 map above is for a specific GTX setup. I made some minor corrections to that map to make it a better starter map, so try this sucker out as a starter point, and make sure the you are requesting in your max VE table something like the following
100 up to 2250 rpms
115 @ 2500
120 @ 2750
175 @ 3300
210 @ 3500
and keep it flat at 210 for all the other points up to redline

Then use this boost duty map, and that should be a good start. Remember to start slow to see how your car responds (i.e., it is not peaking bad). Then work your way up, take logs and make adjustments as necessary.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0dO8JDytq50N2tpX2d1SlNEaUk/edit?usp=sharing

u are the man. Cant wait to try this out now, i'm copying everything onto my file now. Then will let u know in a couple min how it went. Crossing my fingers.

[mec]

EPY did a few revisions to my stage 2 tune and I can attest he made it run alot better!

I made a ghetto stage 3 off of my previous file, but still I wish there were more guys like Eric on here to help us learn maestro...

[DavidAAG]

Seriously would be great if Eric can teach us how to use this. Then we also share the knowledge. I'm trying to understand this and make a perfect tune for myself but thanks to Eric that boost duty map was perfect and setting the max ve the way he said. Just drives so smooth now. Felt and noticed quicker boost response and not having boost spikes.

But man this popping noise I keep getting when I reach 4,000 rpm (Stomping on gas only, not when just easing in) is starting to get ridiculous. Now I just need to fix my tune and I think I'll be golden. I kept trying to make CEL pop up again after flashing this file but not happening. I can redline sometimes but most of the time I get crazy misfires when flooring it.

Eric, if u have any clue or suggestions on what I can change on maestro that will help me, and might change my car for the better by changing something with my fueling or anything else other than boost please let me know. It just seems I'm going the right path so far.

[ericpaulyoung]

Shoot me a log of a 3rd gear pull with the new file, and I will take a peak and see if anything pops out to me.

eric.paul.young at gmail.com

- Eric

P.S. it is great that you are not throwing a CEL anymore! that means it is likely tied to your boost one way or another, likely you got a funk between the timing and boost levels.

[DavidAAG]

I'm so dumb. I was doing my log and I forgot when u press start it starts logging. But I thought it does something special, showing me that its logging but it didn't. So I kept pressing start like a million times. And found out I've been logging the whole damn time.

[ericpaulyoung]

Well you got lotsa data. No problem, more is better then less.

[DavidAAG]

File sent. Let me know what's up. This was probably best log I did. And at one point I did get blinking CEL. So please let me know how this looks on your spare time.

[drumnjuny]

ermagerrrd i'm gonna start fucking with Maestro probably this week... got a good base file, just need to fix my idle issues

[ericpaulyoung]

crap Arjun, totally forgot you PM'd me while I was over in crappy beerville Italy. I will responda shortly :)

[drumnjuny]

haha thanks bud, no worries... i was on vacation over the weekend anyway!

yeah my idle is so bad i cannot even drive the car anymore. if i want to drive it, i have to start it and immediately hold the throttle to keep the engine at 2k RPMs or else the old hag just chokes herself out and dies. nowdays i have to hold it for like 5-10 minutes before it will idle properly... but eventually some part somewhere is warmed up and the car will idle fine (without even moving it, i just let go of the gas and it doesn't start building vacuum. so weird...)

[shiro1745]

I cannot believe that the advertised smooth idle by RAI is actually worse than all other tunes out there.

[drumnjuny]

well when i got the car it drove fine. so it has to be mechanical, especially because i've been on the same tune for a while as well while it was getting worse and worse.


also, Dan was the maestro maestro at cold starts + proper idle... i wish he would tune my car again haha

[DavidAAG]

I'm sure Eric will get just as good or better than Dan at one point. And it's cool that he is helping us the way he is. Do u want to try my tune. Or copy and import whatever u need to make your car idle like mine? Cuz mine is idling great.

[drumnjuny]

its almost certainly hardware related; the tune hasn't changed in months yet the idle has been getting worse and worse. it may be possible to adjust the tune for whatever is failing/breaking but the problem will persist so i'm looking to find the root cause

[ericpaulyoung]

Ferra shims = bad mojo

Just a guess, but if you are not seating correctly the valve seats will erode away and you will slowly loose compression and also melt your intake flappy mickies.

[drumnjuny]

we checked compression, it seemed fine (155+)... and i asked Ray he said there are definitely no lifter shims in my head

[ericpaulyoung]

Hmmmm

[drumnjuny]

yeah RAI is very anti lifter shims. i'm going to either pull the intake manifold or use a boroscope to check on the intake flaps but i'm pretty sure they should be fine. another possibility is a dying o2 sensor...? once it heats up it works better? idk.

[DavidAAG]

U guys think if I need new break pads that I should get new Rotors or can they go a little longer??

[DavidAAG]

And the part out begins..... Gonna go for either a b8 s4 or (if I find a good priced one) Mercedes C63. Tired of all these problems. Might as well start something new and have problems with that then lol.

[drumnjuny]

dang :( sorry to hear it man!

[Operator]

And the part out begins..... Gonna go for either a b8 s4 or (if I find a good priced one) Mercedes C63. Tired of all these problems. Might as well start something new and have problems with that then lol.

Sorry to see you go. Both prospects sound nice. But seem like they are quite a bit more than the B7.

[mec]

What was it that pushed you over the edge?

[DavidAAG]

Sorry to see you go. Both prospects sound nice. But seem like they are quite a bit more than the B7.

Ya more in $$ (down) and power (up).


dang :( sorry to hear it man!

Haha it's no biggie I love both the cars I'm hoping to get more than my b7. Only thing that sucks is all the money on blew on this car for nothing. :-/.

[DavidAAG]

What was it that pushed you over the edge?

Tired of spending money for nothing and I love the looks of the two cars I mentioned. Plus I want to try out a manual car for once. S4 only manual, c63 isn't.

[seal66]

Hey want to throw a list up of items your pulling off btw.


And man it is sad to see another car my running right on a bolt on turbo kit. Good choices in vehicles though

[DavidAAG]

Ok so as for the stuff I'm selling..... Everything that's on my sig except rims as for the turbo. I'll take someone's stock turbo and cash for the exchange. Now time for me to go shopping on the classifieds for stock parts. Really sucks how much money u really lose at the end :-/ but was still worth the excitement of how the car ended up. In a way cuz mine didn't fully work but I felt its potential. Everything I have works 100% and is nearly new cuz I only had most of these parts for a year or less. I'll list everything in the classifieds also when I have time. Trying to sell everything ASAP so I can have a nice down payment for my next car :)

Also have one of those never wears cam followers from John HPFP guy. It was $160 new and still is new but I won't be selling it for that much of course. Just PM me for info on everything or anything u need.

[seal66]

I am going to have to hit ya upon some stuff. I also have some stock parts if you want to send me a list of what you need

[aluthman]

Your old turbo is going on my car as soon as the engine is done. I replaced the N75 and bent the actuator rod to prevent binding and give it more travel. I'm thinking that was the issue you were having with tuning it.

Before:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps0230012c.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps0230012c.jpg.html)
This is the most the WG would open with the actuator binding.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps23b94b41.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps23b94b41.jpg.html)

After bending:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpseb59c6fa.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpseb59c6fa.jpg.html)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps41bb884e.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps41bb884e.jpg.html)

[ericpaulyoung]

Ha! I used my motive bleeder for exactly the same thing!!
:)

epy

[shiro1745]

Your old turbo is going on my car as soon as the engine is done. I replaced the N75 and bent the actuator rod to prevent binding and give it more travel. I'm thinking that was the issue you were having with tuning it.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpseb59c6fa.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpseb59c6fa.jpg.html)

I feel like I need to remove my new turbo too to check it out. I have a feeling mine's the same again. I kind of feel sorry RAI replaced my old one cause I already had that adjusted properly, bent rod, wastegate preload and all that.

[aluthman]

If they are all like that, I think that's a pretty big oversight on RAI's part...