New Turbo showed up today!!! *pics inside*

[ignus99]

As some may know, my K03 crapped out on my so I figured I might as well upgrade to something a little more robust to prevent this from happening again.
(Plus the extra power was... an "oops" byproduct!)

Decided on the GT28RS by Garrett, I bought it from ATP Turbos as they had a stock mounted exhaust manifold paired with the turbo.
It also included a CNC machined exhaust flange to match stock points... essentially a straight swap with stock!
Link to turbo *HERE* (http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-255&Category_Code=FSI)

http://i.imgur.com/G5jvy.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/wkLRW.jpg

Isn't she GORGEOUS!!!

http://i.imgur.com/gPPBk.jpg

Pure quality... solid CNC'd exhaust flange

http://i.imgur.com/xZxyB.jpg

V-Flange from manifold to Turbo exhaust side.

http://i.imgur.com/lidwG.jpg

Stock match exhaust manifold... cannot stress enough the level of quality!

http://i.imgur.com/yh1TW.jpg

This was a $75 option, a stock sized intake elbow, including all stock intake references and ports.

http://i.imgur.com/SeI53.jpg

This was a $195 option... Which I am VERY thankful for ordering. It is all required oil and coolant lines using stock oil and coolant locations.
I'm sure I could have gotten all the parts for a little cheaper, but running around piecing it together would have been far more annoying.

http://i.imgur.com/zeDbr.jpg

And LAST BUT NOT LEAST!!! the Turbosmart 38mm inlet dual port BOV/Recirc.
I wanted to have recirc to prevent excess fuel dumping from the MAF sensing a surge of backpressure, buuuuut I am a sucker for the chirp.
This is a good mix of both that prevents damage to my engine but still gets me the sound I want.

http://i.imgur.com/FNOe1.jpg

Installation happens on Saturday.
As this is my daily driver I am hoping I can install everything and fabricate the one pipe required from the turbo to the intercooler.
I am going to weld a flange provided by Turbosmart to the intercooler inlet pipe to have a solid mounting point for the BOV/Recirc.

If its worth doing, its worth doing right.

Let me know what you guys think! I'll have a writeup of the install after completed!

[jimrobbington]

Goddamn it! I feel like Uncle Rico and all you guys are my high school football career! Just sitting on the sidelines, watching everyone else throw my touchdowns.


LIke it! Who's tuning? Really liking the sudden burst of non-K04 builds, with a lot of variation. Our platform is finally on it's way up the food chain.

[Operator]

Looking forward to your completed install. Keep us updated.

[jimrobbington]

Ha ha Dave, I beat you!

[b18flip]

Looks good! Can't wait to see the results. What other mods are you using to compliment the new turbo?

[pierranchis]

Hmm. Interesting. I'm assuming you went with the stock 14lbs actuator?

[Lensch09]

That's one hell of a silicon tube you got there...
-Dan

[ignus99]

Looks good! Can't wait to see the results. What other mods are you using to compliment the new turbo?
Annnnd here's where I get bitched at by everyone. My Visa took too huge of a hit having to replace my turbo, so right now.... I am just running intake, full exhaust with test pipe, minor this and that....

I have NOT upgraded my fuel system, when my visa isn't beat I'll be purchasing hpfpupgrade from *HERE* (http://hpfpupgrade.com/Products/Show/Audi/2.0T+FSI/Audi+and+VW+DIY+Fuel+Pump+Upgrade)

And of course RS4 injectors like everyone else, and some form of FMIC... I know NOTHING about them at this time, and do not want something as intense as the AWE one.

Afterwards.... Maybe watermeth? I've heard with proper tuning, upgraded fuel, FMIC and watermeth I can be running around the 400whp mark... which in short is bonkers.

[ignus99]

Hmm. Interesting. I'm assuming you went with the stock 14lbs actuator?
Yup. I dont plan on running more than 14psi EVER in this so a 1bar wastegate was plenty.

[ignus99]

That's one hell of a silicon tube you got there...
-Dan

HAH! Maybe its the sleep deprivation, but I burst out laughing. Thank you.

I bought 2ft just because I was unsure of how/where/what the routing would be from the TurboSmart Recirc back to the intake of the turbo.
If I only use 1ft, I'll return the other. Which is pretty much guaranteed.

[b18flip]

Annnnd here's where I get bitched at by everyone. My Visa took too huge of a hit having to replace my turbo, so right now.... I am just running intake, full exhaust with test pipe, minor this and that....

I have NOT upgraded my fuel system, when my visa isn't beat I'll be purchasing hpfpupgrade from *HERE* (http://hpfpupgrade.com/Products/Show/Audi/2.0T+FSI/Audi+and+VW+DIY+Fuel+Pump+Upgrade)

And of course RS4 injectors like everyone else, and some form of FMIC... I know NOTHING about them at this time, and do not want something as intense as the AWE one.

Afterwards.... Maybe watermeth? I've heard with proper tuning, upgraded fuel, FMIC and watermeth I can be running around the 400whp mark... which in short is bonkers.
Not gonna bitch at you at all LOL. Im pretty interested to see the results before those mods as I'd be in the same boat as you

[SykoraA4]

Afterwards.... Maybe watermeth? I've heard with proper tuning, upgraded fuel, FMIC and watermeth I can be running around the 400whp mark... which in short is bonkers.

pretty sure you'd be one of the first... that 400wheel is a pretty lofty number. remember, if you are quattro that would put you at the 600 crank mark. What I would do, and John may chip in to correct me, is upgrade to the stage 2 pump once funds allow. also do a pretty high cracking PRV. then down the a tune that requires a nice high fuel pressure and you might not even need injectors. Fmic after all that and you'll have the basics covered.

[SykoraA4]

does the stock turbo outlet work with this turbo?

[DRAKLORE]

I actually really can relate with your train of thought. You saw an opportunity to do something you wanted and took it, honestly I say all the power to you. Obviously you are not expecting rainbows and unicorns until you start supplementing the turbo but it sounds like this will be a good project to keep you and your wallet busy :-)

When it's time for injectors let me know... I can get you a good price on rs4 injectors. But as much as I am obliged not to say... It looks as though their may be other options in the injector market here shortly. That and fOr your turbo I would say S3 injectors but you didn't hear it from me... Ok? Lol

If you need help when it comes time for turbo replacement and need help you can pme for my personal cell. I replaced mine in a night with a handful of tools and a simple floor jack. I don't even think your turbo requires the modified engine bracket, so it should be even easier.
Also if you want to run a catch can pm me and I will practically give you my adapter plate. I've got a lot of extra inter cooler piping and silicone tubing and spare stuff you would find very useful.

[rkesh88]

how does the 2860RS flow in comparison to the 2871 and the k03 or k04?

[Tranzlogic]

SICK upgrade Ignus! Def want to hear more about this!

[ignus99]

does the stock turbo outlet work with this turbo?

That's one thing I didn't really understand with this kit... the stock turbo outlet fits straight up to the stock side mounted intercooler silicon hose...
BUT, if I was to just do this... there would be no form of BOV OR recirculation... a big no no. Don't want that excess pressure pushing on my throttle body!!!

Soooo to do it properly I am rebuilding the pipe out of solid aluminum piping (those 2 boxes in the first picture) and welding a flange to fit the TurboSmart valve.
This is the part that worries me the most about this kit.

[SykoraA4]

because you're mocking up your own dv placement, you may want to run it on the cold side (after the last intercooler, prior to the throttle body). this vents the pressure surge quickly instead of it traveling almost all the way back to the turbo. what are your plans for the factory dv?

[ignus99]

how does the 2860RS flow in comparison to the 2871 and the k03 or k04?

God I wish I knew the answer to this. I was in a time crunch to get the turbo ordered and shipped so my research was cut a little short...
I know the spool speed for the 28RS is faster than the 2871 but is a little lower on the peak hp numbers... As peak numbers are not my goal it was useless to go with the 2871.
As far as the K03 and K04? This is disgustingly superior. There is no comparison with either of those and the GT28RS.
GT28RS is more on par with the RAI K0R (aaaaand claiming that is how you make enemies. Sorry guys!)


SICK upgrade Ignus! Def want to hear more about this!

Thanks man, I'll have more pics after I finish the install, it might even warrant a dyno... who knows!!

[DRAKLORE]

I too am interested in your stock dv.. Maybe we could trade?

[ignus99]

because you're mocking up your own dv placement, you may want to run it on the cold side (after the last intercooler, prior to the throttle body). this vents the pressure surge quickly instead of it traveling almost all the way back to the turbo. what are your plans for the factory dv?

Never really thought of that... It makes perfect sense but I don't think I'll be doing it this way.

The main reason is the recirc part of my valve... I would need to run a silicone hose all the way back from the valve to the intake side of the turbo. Doable? Yes. Pain in the ass? Yesx10

[t3los]

Since we're on the topic, at what point do we need to look at upgrading the transmission to handle the power being thrown to it?

[ignus99]

because you're mocking up your own dv placement, you may want to run it on the cold side (after the last intercooler, prior to the throttle body). this vents the pressure surge quickly instead of it traveling almost all the way back to the turbo. what are your plans for the factory dv?


I too am interested in your stock dv.. Maybe we could trade?

Gentlemen, gentlemen! Single file please!

My stock DV is already spoken for... It's not even the updated DV so I'm not even sure why so many people were interested before posting here.
I had 2 locals ask me for it already, gave it to a buddy who I owed a favor to... Sorry!!!

My aftermarket Forge DV I am not selling. I am not sure it is 100% functional and I refuse to sell/give away a potentially faulty part.
It was partially working with my K03 but my mechanic said it potentially could have aided the failure of my turbo. Do not want others to be in my shoes.
All hearsay, but still not worth the risk.

[DRAKLORE]

What springs and such are in it?

[SykoraA4]

I was asking because i didn't know if you were going to leave it plugged in. I'm not sure what the ecu thinks with it removed.

[ignus99]

What springs and such are in it?

I think it was the yellow spring... the upgraded one suggested by forge with increased boost pressure


I was asking because i didn't know if you were going to leave it plugged in. I'm not sure what the ecu thinks with it removed.

Good question... I guess if it throws a code I'll deal with it then?
I wonder if Revo tuning has the option to disable DV sensor inputs similar to their O2 sensor when adding a test pipe.

[DRAKLORE]

NO code if it's unplugged

[viziers]

As far as transmissions go AFAIK no one has broken a quattro tranny on a B7 yet so we really do not know the limits yet as some of us are at the 400+whp mark already with no issues that I have come across...


Ill let ya know when mine goes back on the dyno for numbers in a few weeks...



vizi

[rkesh88]

you said you got the 1 bar setting for it, does this mean you cant exceed 1 bar or 14 psi with this while driving?

[viziers]

you said you got the 1 bar setting for it, does this mean you cant exceed 1 bar or 14 psi with this while driving?

That is correct, unless you use a MBC (Manual boost controller)....



vizi

[jimrobbington]

If this turbo is comparable to the K0R, I sub1 see how 400 whp is possible, ever. Especially since 2871 guys aren't even seeing 300 whp on average.

JR

[drumnjuny]

This is awesome! I have to agree with JR though ^^ id be pretty shocked if you were able to hit 400 or even 350whp with a gt2860RS but it will spool super fast in comparison to a gt2871R

[mr shickadance]

can i have your old ko3?

[jimrobbington]

Scott! Go to a junk yard for your wall art! Lol.

JR

[Sprode]

Goddamn it! I feel like Uncle Rico and all you guys are my high school football career! Just sitting on the sidelines, watching everyone else throw my touchdowns.


LIke it! Who's tuning? Really liking the sudden burst of non-K04 builds, with a lot of variation. Our platform is finally on it's way up the food chain.

I knew it would start to happen down the line. 8 years is longer than I thought, but I expect 2012 to be a big year for the b7a4

[CorneliusRox]

I knew it would start to happen down the line. 8 years is longer than I thought, but I expect 2012 to be a big year for the b7a4

x2

[Seerlah]

That turbo isn't capable of 600chp. It flows at 36lbs/min. I see you hitting 300whp (you need a proper tune and run more than 14lbs of boost), but def not 400whp. I am not fluent on the 2.0 TFSI engines, but built blocks from 1.8L to 2.0L can see 300whp (1.8t can also, but just trying to even the fields with the displacement).

You should also know that there are upgrades for that turbo, with billet machined wheels which result in them being lighter than the cast unit currently on there. The billet wheels allow the turbo to flow more, not lose efficiency (drop in boost), and basically let you put out a hp output that larger turbochargers do...with quicker spool. The companies that do this is Competition Turbo, and Forced Performance. You may want to look into them, if you ever get tired of that turbo. You would simply need to take off the CHRA and compressor housing, send it to one of those companies (both those companies offer a couple variation upgrades for the disco potato aka GT2860RS), and they send you a new compressor housing (to match their upgraded compressor wheel) with new wheel (Competition Turbo can upgrade both exhaust and compressor wheel) on the CHRA.

But onto relevance, beautiful setup man [up]. I have a 1.8t and would post up a pic of my setup, but don't want to ruin your thread. Just like you, my turbo is on it's way out. But I have been piecing together my setup for maybe a year now. Finally got it complete. But you should look into your supporting mods, such as an intercooler upgrade, fuel pump upgrade, clutch, etc (which you already mentioned). Higher IATs means less power, and ignition timing pull. That is no bueno for your engine. Anyways, hope to pop back in this thread in a little while and seeing that bad boy installed.

[Sales@RAI]

I knew it would start to happen down the line. 8 years is longer than I thought, but I expect 2012 to be a big year for the b7a4

We've been waiting [evilsmile]. Once fueling is figured out we want to build a B7 monster

[Sales@RAI]

Yup. I dont plan on running more than 14psi EVER in this so a 1bar wastegate was plenty.

Really? You realize you're not gonna make much more than a stage 2 car at 14psi right?


you said you got the 1 bar setting for it, does this mean you cant exceed 1 bar or 14 psi with this while driving?

No. What that means is the LOWEST boost pressure that can be run is 14psi. You can use the N75, MBC, or EBC to keep the WG closed more to allow for more boost but you can never go below the WG pre-load

[ericpaulyoung]

AAAAAND even more cool is that ATP will upgrade you to the GTX series turbo if you like. I contacted them a few weeks ago and they said no problem just click on the following link and you can do the same kit but with the new GTX series of blades for getting closer to reaching your 400 awhp goal. Maybe not all the way there, but "disgustingly" closer!


"Jan 9 from [email protected]
Hi Eric,

Thanks for the request.

Yes, please add this part to the same order as the turbo kit and we will know what to do:

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-200&Category_Code=GTX
"

BAAAAMP! The super disco potato!!!1

[Leo14]

You think fueling wouldn't be such a damn problem compared to other things.. Awesome to see a non k04 build/out of the norm I guess you could say. GL and post results when everything's finished :D

[ignus99]

If this turbo is comparable to the K0R, I sub1 see how 400 whp is possible, ever. Especially since 2871 guys aren't even seeing 300 whp on average.

JR

Yeah I have a feeling you're right. Can't blame a guy for wishful thinking!
If I even hit 325-340whp after fuel and cooling mods I'll be more than a giddy schoolgirl on christmas morning, 400 and I think I would even de-tune it...
nobody really NEEDS that kind of power for a daily.

[Stewy]

Nice buy(s) man. I am excited to see the install and hear your feedback once you put her on the street.

[digitalAUDI]

gonna be watching this build. I'm considering getting one of the stock location atp kits, but hadn't found any threads with anyone else trying them, besides Draklore's 3071r kit.

Keep us updated on your progress.

[ericpaulyoung]

gonna be watching this build. I'm considering getting one of the stock location atp kits, but hadn't found any threads with anyone else trying them, besides Draklore's 3071r kit.

Keep us updated on your progress.

Don't miss my note about the GTX upgrade. I see no reasonto not take advantage of the next technology if you are going this route.

- Eric

[DRAKLORE]

Hey digitalaudi- jmarch is running one, not sure if who else ????

Op update with more pics :/)

[NorcalPB]

If this turbo is comparable to the K0R, I sub1 see how 400 whp is possible, ever. Especially since 2871 guys aren't even seeing 300 whp on average.

JR

Remember Auditude? He had one of the first 2871 kits on his tiptronic and made over 300whp, that's with a 25% drivetrain loss... If you get less than 300whp with that Garrett turbo you either have a very conservative tune or something is wrong with the car.

[Operator]

Well those kits must be hit or miss. Flyingleggs(sp) I believe is a manual and he's at 319whp. So how a TIP made only about 2.5% less is shocking to me.

[swoardrider]

AAAAAND even more cool is that ATP will upgrade you to the GTX series turbo if you like. I contacted them a few weeks ago and they said no problem just click on the following link and you can do the same kit but with the new GTX series of blades for getting closer to reaching your 400 awhp goal. Maybe not all the way there, but "disgustingly" closer!


"Jan 9 from [email protected]
Hi Eric,

Thanks for the request.

Yes, please add this part to the same order as the turbo kit and we will know what to do:

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-200&Category_Code=GTX
"

BAAAAMP! The super disco potato!!!1

Good to know. I've been torn between the K0R or GTX, but leaning towards the K0R due to it's stealthy stock location. Being in Cali, and having my car older than 6 years, the DMV is now requiring I do a smog inspection every other year. Now that the GTX can be shoved in the stock location, I'm back to my usual indecisiveness!

[ericpaulyoung]

Good to know. I've been torn between the K0R or GTX, but leaning towards the K0R due to it's stealthy stock location. Being in Cali, and having my car older than 6 years, the DMV is now requiring I do a smog inspection every other year. Now that the GTX can be shoved in the stock location, I'm back to my usual indecisiveness!

Ya, I hear ya. My choice is between the KOR, and S3 K04, and the GTX 2863. I am leaning towards the S3 K04, but any of these is a great size turbo. The GTX will have the most legs of the three, but also the slower spooly. One way or the other you will be happy.
- Eric

[digitalAUDI]

Don't miss my note about the GTX upgrade. I see no reasonto not take advantage of the next technology if you are going this route.

- Eric

Yeah, I saw what you said. I'll be looking into that when its time to start putting the kit together.


Hey digitalaudi- jmarch is running one, not sure if who else ????

Op update with more pics :/)

Is there a build thread? I thought I had seen one before with that name, but haven't been able to find it....

[DRAKLORE]

His car is a mystery unfolding daily lol

Ad far as hit or miss, I feel a lot of these turbo kits (KOR,GT28, GT30) and maybe even KO4 cannot be simply classified under X(WHP) or X(torque) because there are so many variables that would need to be said when talking about what people make. Look at Jeff, he made like 320whp with his 3076 @23psi then changed tunes, and tweaked a few fueling things and made like 340whp. Now he's doing more engine work and fueling stuff and will prob make lots more.
Yet somebody else with a 3071 and less mods turns a 400whp dyno run @26 psi.
Some members are really conservative about tunes/psi, while others are not.
I think Now that we are finding out that each different coded 2.0tfsi has different pistons, different PRVs and different compression ratios. It's really hard to clearly define or put a number on these turbos without examining each application and how aggresive they tuned or modded each car is

Why do members choose the psi they run a dyno at.. Was the car to lean? To much timing pull? Who's to say we couldn't get way bigger numbers once we have fueling to supplement a higher peak PSI!!!!

[ignus99]

Hey digitalaudi- jmarch is running one, not sure if who else ????

Op update with more pics :/)

Working! I'll be done at 5 Mountain time, dinner, yadda yadda... I might actually start pulling it apart tonight.
Everything except the turbo that is... I like my fingers non-cooked...
heat shield, intake (if im careful)... maybe some vent hoses and EVAP system.

I'll have pics tomorrow afternoon.



His car is a mystery unfolding daily lol

Ad far as hit or miss, I feel a lot of these turbo kits (KOR,GT28, GT30) and maybe even KO4 cannot be simply classified under X(WHP) or X(torque) because there are so many variables that would need to be said when talking about what people make. Look at Jeff, he made like 320whp with his 3076 @23psi then changed tunes, and tweaked a few fueling things and made like 340whp. Now he's doing more engine work and fueling stuff and will prob make lots more.
Yet somebody else with a 3071 and less mods turns a 400whp dyno run @26 psi.
Some members are really conservative about tunes/psi, while others are not.
I think Now that we are finding out that each different coded 2.0tfsi has different pistons, different PRVs and different compression ratios. It's really hard to clearly define or put a number on these turbos without examining each application and how aggresive they tuned or modded each car is

Why do members choose the psi they run a dyno at.. Was the car to lean? To much timing pull? Who's to say we couldn't get way bigger numbers once we have fueling to supplement a higher peak PSI!!!!

The thing I am banking on (and correct me if I am wrong), is a watermeth kit to gain a significant amount of power.
I have heard with the joint FMIC and Watermeth you can potentially gain 20%hp (confirm anyone?)
My research into this has been limited, but it definitely seems like a worth while investment a little down the line.

[viziers]

Working! I'll be done at 5 Mountain time, dinner, yadda yadda... I might actually start pulling it apart tonight.
Everything except the turbo that is... I like my fingers non-cooked...
heat shield, intake (if im careful)... maybe some vent hoses and EVAP system.

I'll have pics tomorrow afternoon.




The thing I am banking on (and correct me if I am wrong), is a watermeth kit to gain a significant amount of power.
I have heard with the joint FMIC and Watermeth you can potentially gain 20%hp (confirm anyone?)
My research into this has been limited, but it definitely seems like a worth while investment a little down the line.



From all the reading I have done on w/m is it should be used as "suplemental fueling" and not as "additional fueling".. But I think most use it as additional fueling..



vizi

[DRAKLORE]

^^haha that is pretty true

[swoardrider]

Remember Auditude? He had one of the first 2871 kits on his tiptronic and made over 300whp, that's with a 25% drivetrain loss... If you get less than 300whp with that Garrett turbo you either have a very conservative tune or something is wrong with the car.
Auditude made 318awhp on the 2871. It seems like no one with the 2871 and Quattro has gotten more than in the low 300awhp. Although, like DRKLORE says, tunes are a huge variable, and there might be a lot of power left on the table still.

OP - Are you Quattro or FWD? I hope you get to that goal of 325-345whp, but if you are Quattro, I don't think it's obtainable with the GTRS. From everything I've read, the GTRS characteristics is much closer to the s3 K04 than the 2871. Most power I've seen out of a K04 Quattro is 300awhp on 100 oct. When you finalize your build, I'd love to see a dyno of it.


Ya, I hear ya. My choice is between the KOR, and S3 K04, and the GTX 2863. I am leaning towards the S3 K04, but any of these is a great size turbo. The GTX will have the most legs of the three, but also the slower spooly. One way or the other you will be happy.
- Eric
This is exactly my dilemma, I think you are right in terms of power: s3K04>K0R>GTX2863. The big question will be: "how different are they really??"

[Seerlah]

W/M is used for suppressing detonation and to be able to run higher boost with more advanced timing.

-If wanting to use it to lower IATs, look into upgrading your intercooler first.
-If wanting to run more boost, dial in your pump gas tune first.
-Once that is dialed in correct (no ignition timing pull with your setup at decent boost settings), then move onto your W/M setup
-Now that your system if basically running perfect on pump gas and optimized, install W/M kit, up the boost, and take advantage of being able to run more timing (already added in the race file).
-Get the most out of your system before deciding you need to add meth. That's like eating half your McDonalds Big Mac, then going to a real burger joint because you feel the big mac did not fill you up. Well, finish your damn sandwich first before going to the real burger spot to fill you up. Not that I like McDonalds or anything, because I don't. Just a similitude.

And Garrett GTX is not the next technology. If anything, the Borg Warner EFR units is the next technology. I am under the impression Garrett came out with the GTX because they simply needed to keep up with the competition. Turbo companies have been using billet wheels for years now (ie Forced Performance for the DSM). And with the GTX, don't be surprised if you get disappointed. That turbo can't really be utilized unless running decent boost (like 25-30psi minimum). That is maybe why they first started out with the larger frame turbochargers, because those would mainly be used for track cars that of course push more than 30psi of boost pressure. Then, they started to cater to the smaller and mid-frame sized turbochargers. Basically, don't expect to slap on the GTX2863R and expect like like 50+whp. It's just not going to happen. You need to utilize (with tune and boost) it to get those numbers.

Figure the GTX2863R flows at ~44lbs/min. The standard GT2871R flows at 44lbs/min. So, what would seem the better choice? You see where I'm coming from?

[NorcalPB]

The thing I am banking on (and correct me if I am wrong), is a watermeth kit to gain a significant amount of power.
I have heard with the joint FMIC and Watermeth you can potentially gain 20%hp (confirm anyone?)
My research into this has been limited, but it definitely seems like a worth while investment a little down the line.


I know on the 335i, with a dual nozzle water/meth kit you can easily see gains of 25-30rwhp. With a higher octane tune you'll really be seeing huge gains with that big turbo. Plus it is a preventative to carbon build up.

[ignus99]

Auditude made 318awhp on the 2871. It seems like no one with the 2871 and Quattro has gotten more than in the low 300awhp. Although, like DRKLORE says, tunes are a huge variable, and there might be a lot of power left on the table still.

OP - Are you Quattro or FWD? I hope you get to that goal of 325-345whp, but if you are Quattro, I don't think it's obtainable with the GTRS. From everything I've read, the GTRS characteristics is much closer to the s3 K04 than the 2871. Most power I've seen out of a K04 Quattro is 300awhp on 100 oct. When you finalize your build, I'd love to see a dyno of it.


This is exactly my dilemma, I think you are right in terms of power: s3K04>K0R>GTX2863. The big question will be: "how different are they really??"

I am sadly a FWD, but I have come to terms with this. Not everything in life is off the line. With just the GT28RS, intake, exhaust, test pipe, and a proper tune I am hoping to be shy of the 290whp mark. I don't want to risk pushing too much heat into the engine without supplemental mods.

[ignus99]

W/M is used for suppressing detonation and to be able to run higher boost with more advanced timing.

-If wanting to use it to lower IATs, look into upgrading your intercooler first.
-If wanting to run more boost, dial in your pump gas tune first.
-Once that is dialed in correct (no ignition timing pull with your setup at decent boost settings), then move onto your W/M setup
-Now that your system if basically running perfect on pump gas and optimized, install W/M kit, up the boost, and take advantage of being able to run more timing (already added in the race file).
-Get the most out of your system before deciding you need to add meth. That's like eating half your McDonalds Big Mac, then going to a real burger joint because you feel the big mac did not fill you up. Well, finish your damn sandwich first before going to the real burger spot to fill you up. Not that I like McDonalds or anything, because I don't. Just a similitude.

And Garrett GTX is not the next technology. If anything, the Borg Warner EFR units is the next technology. I am under the impression Garrett came out with the GTX because they simply needed to keep up with the competition. Turbo companies have been using billet wheels for years now (ie Forced Performance for the DSM). And with the GTX, don't be surprised if you get disappointed. That turbo can't really be utilized unless running decent boost (like 25-30psi minimum). That is maybe why they first started out with the larger frame turbochargers, because those would mainly be used for track cars that of course push more than 30psi of boost pressure. Then, they started to cater to the smaller and mid-frame sized turbochargers. Basically, don't expect to slap on the GTX2863R and expect like like 50+whp. It's just not going to happen. You need to utilize (with tune and boost) it to get those numbers.

Figure the GTX2863R flows at ~44lbs/min. The standard GT2871R flows at 44lbs/min. So, what would seem the better choice? You see where I'm coming from?

I agree with everything you have said. The w/m is most likely the last thing I intend to add (for now).
fuel first, then FMIC, then w/m. With appropriate tuning along the way.

I wanted to thank you. You have some numbers there that make me happy I was in a rush and didn't get the GTX upgrade.
I was reading other posts and getting bummed out about it, seems like its not much of a bonus (if any) from the GT.

Btw, now I want mcdonalds and I hate you for that. hah.

[Seerlah]

Side note: Wendy's is better than McDonalds. Not that I eat there either. lol

[swoardrider]

I am sadly a FWD, but I have come to terms with this. Not everything in life is off the line. With just the GT28RS, intake, exhaust, test pipe, and a proper tune I am hoping to be shy of the 290whp mark. I don't want to risk pushing too much heat into the engine without supplemental mods.
With FWD, you actually should be close to hitting your mark of 325whp. There are plenty of VW guys that are putting down those numbers on the GTrs with the FSI engine.

[swoardrider]

And Garrett GTX is not the next technology. If anything, the Borg Warner EFR units is the next technology. I am under the impression Garrett came out with the GTX because they simply needed to keep up with the competition. Turbo companies have been using billet wheels for years now (ie Forced Performance for the DSM). And with the GTX, don't be surprised if you get disappointed. That turbo can't really be utilized unless running decent boost (like 25-30psi minimum). That is maybe why they first started out with the larger frame turbochargers, because those would mainly be used for track cars that of course push more than 30psi of boost pressure. Then, they started to cater to the smaller and mid-frame sized turbochargers. Basically, don't expect to slap on the GTX2863R and expect like like 50+whp. It's just not going to happen. You need to utilize (with tune and boost) it to get those numbers.

Figure the GTX2863R flows at ~44lbs/min. The standard GT2871R flows at 44lbs/min. So, what would seem the better choice? You see where I'm coming from?

You are correct, the GTX is basically a massed produced and optimized billet wheel turbo. EFR is actually ground-breaking territory. If money was no object, I'd be on the EFR all day long, but being on a budget, the GTX or K0R is a great, economical way to utilize some new technology to achieve a goal. In the case of the GTX2863R vs the GT2871R, the GTX will spool like the GTRS and breath like the 71R, best of both worlds.
http://specialtyz.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/GTX2863R-vs-GT2860RS.jpg

[Seerlah]

In the case of the GTX2863R vs the GT2871R, the GTX will spool like the GTRS and breath like the 71R, best of both worlds.


So that is what they say. But the question is does one think the cost justifies the 3-500rpm quicker spool time? Figure you can pick up a brand new GT2871R for $1200 shipped, and the GTX2863R costs ~$1,250...then another ~$250 for the exhaust housing...then another $200+ for the waste-gate setup. Price adds up rather quickly. Does the cost justify the means? I'm not downplaying the GTX at all, but from what I have seen it has not lived up to it's potential unless it is pushed with high boost numbers. It is then that the GTX shows what it is really capable of.


The w/m is most likely the last thing I intend to add (for now).
fuel first, then FMIC, then w/m. With appropriate tuning along the way.



I forgot to comment on this. The tuning, intercooler, and fueling all go hand and foot. For example, doing fueling first without being able to have low IATs with an intercooler will not result in your tune running proper (your ECU will pull timing if your IATs are too high). I know with these motors, the fuel pump is what holds you guys back. But my suggestion it to try and make all 3 of those walk the same road together, progressing with each others and complimenting each others. I know on my vehicle, the stock intercooler isn't even sufficient for the stock turbo with an ECU flash. I'm not fluent on the B7 platform, so just going on assumption.

[Smoothie104]

gonna be watching this build. I'm considering getting one of the stock location atp kits, but hadn't found any threads with anyone else trying them, besides Draklore's 3071r kit.

Keep us updated on your progress.

x2

[SykoraA4]

I forgot to comment on this. The tuning, intercooler, and fueling all go hand and foot. For example, doing fueling first without being able to have low IATs with an intercooler will not result in your tune running proper (your ECU will pull timing if your IATs are too high). I know with these motors, the fuel pump is what holds you guys back. But my suggestion it to try and make all 3 of those walk the same road together, progressing with each others and complimenting each others. I know on my vehicle, the stock intercooler isn't even sufficient for the stock turbo with an ECU flash. I'm not fluent on the B7 platform, so just going on assumption.

Who's this guy think he is. talkin all b7 fueling lingo and what not.... Haha! Just kidding Seerlah. I'm really glad to see a familiar guy from my b5 days posting more in the b7 forums. This guy has a bunch of knowledge a lot of the new guys on this forum need to hear, b7 guys need to take head. Seerlah, thinking of jumping into a b7?

[DRAKLORE]

. Seerlah, thinking of jumping into a b7?

^exactly what I was thinking lol

[swoardrider]

So that is what they say. But the question is does one think the cost justifies the 3-500rpm quicker spool time? Figure you can pick up a brand new GT2871R for $1200 shipped, and the GTX2863R costs ~$1,250...then another ~$250 for the exhaust housing...then another $200+ for the waste-gate setup. Price adds up rather quickly. Does the cost justify the means? I'm not downplaying the GTX at all, but from what I have seen it has not lived up to it's potential unless it is pushed with high boost numbers. It is then that the GTX shows what it is really capable of.

[confused][confused]
Why can't you just buy this (what the OP has): http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-255&Category_Code=VHS, and then pay $300 and upgrade to the GTX: http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TP&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-200&Category_Code=
ATP will sell you the GTX for $300 more, not $500+ more, or I missing something here? For $300, you bet your ass I'll take 500rpm quicker spool up time.

[DRAKLORE]

Because it's not interesting at 300$ lol

[Seerlah]

[confused][confused]
Why can't you just buy this (what the OP has): http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-255&Category_Code=VHS, and then pay $300 and upgrade to the GTX: http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TP&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-200&Category_Code=
ATP will sell you the GTX for $300 more, not $500+ more, or I missing something here? For $300, you bet your ass I'll take 500rpm quicker spool up time.

No, you are correct. I was not really thinking correct about it. I'm used to piecing parts together myself, and was going off in my head on pricing comparisons. I apologize. The GTX is sold separate with just the CHRA and compressor housing for ~$1250. That is where I started to get the numbers mixed up from the ATP kit pricing. If I were to piece a kit together myself, that is roughly what the pricing would be. Figure a regular GT2860RS CHRA can be roughly $850. The GTX is $1250. They are offering it in that kit for $300 extra, which makes sense, and the WG setup is already included. I was going by pricing for just putting that together functionally from scratch...which is expensive. ATP def is saving you guys money by going their route. And that $300 option is actually looking quite good right now. But really, is not worth it if you can't utilize it.

I was into these GTX models years ago, before they were even out on the market. Basically, I thought these units were going to basically take over the billet wheel competition. Well, I was wrong. But not really. As I mentioned before, these GTX units have a lot of potential. But if you look at the compressor map, they can't really be utilized unless running high boost. These billet wheel options don't really offer what the other companies do which is not only more power, but faster spool. The GTX only offers more power, but not faster spool. Other billet wheels do from other companies, but this is what is said by a company I purchase parts from. These turbos are supposed to spool just like their perspective origin (example, is the GTX2863 and the GT2860RS) and flow like the turbo that is basically one step above. And going by the compressor map, it holds true. Seeing the next step up is a GT2871R and flows at 44lbs/min. And the GTX2863R flows the same, but the pressure ratios vary greatly. So, once again you are correct about it spool like a GT2860RS and flow like a GT2871R (going by item description and flow map). But what it lacks is faster spool and more power (ie spool like a GT28R and flow like a GT2871R).

Not sure if people even bothered to look into the Forced Performance or not, that I mentioned earlier. But this would be a better option for the OP later on. The HTA upgrade not only offers more power, but faster spool (their wheel design). It has been proven to be efficient for years. It is more expensive than $300, but can place the GT2860RS on the power level between the GT3071R and GT3076R...with faster spool (HTA71 upgrade). I plan on going this route with my turbo, but not till later. Just trying to say there are a lot of options on the market. And Competition Turbo offers way more varieties than Forced performance does with the GT28xx upgrades alone. Person in the B6 A4 section who runs one says he was able to get the compressor fins to spin by just blowing on them.

http://www.ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=178&categoryId=181


Who's this guy think he is. talkin all b7 fueling lingo and what not.... Haha! Just kidding Seerlah. I'm really glad to see a familiar guy from my b5 days posting more in the b7 forums. This guy has a bunch of knowledge a lot of the new guys on this forum need to hear, b7 guys need to take head. Seerlah, thinking of jumping into a b7?

What's going on, Will[cool]. I see your name tucked in the corner of your sig. lol. Many of the old school B5 heads have gone to bigger and better things (ie B7), and there are only a few heads left over. But new heads pop in all the time with crazy builds, and it keeps things entertaining. As for me, I plan on sticking with this car for a very very long time. Too much money and passion invested to just give her up. So, only option is to just invest more money. lol. Besides, can't afford a B7. Mee is broke. Maybe later on in life. But for now, just going to stick it out with the soon to be classic.

[onetrav]

Sick.....

[titanium3.2]

where are the pictures, videos from the install?

[DRAKLORE]

How did you hook up your forge Dv before, and how do you plan on hooking up the OE dv, ATP
Or s3 flange?

[ignus99]

Well... day 1 was pretty slow going, I am embarrased to say it is not complete.
Day started with me running around town looking for a new propane line cause I melted the one I had pre-heating my garage.

Let me tell you one thing... ATP was slightly misleading, haha. Yes the exhaust manifold matched up, yes the CNC'd part fit nicely with the exhaust....
but that CNC'd flange was too big, it was hitting the heat shield below the turbo. I ended up having to machine it down a bit before it would cooperate...

I'm going for a shower... and dinner. I'll upload a couple shots I took in an hour or so!

End of day 1:
- turbo fully removed, new one installed, bolted on the manifold and exhaust test pipe.

To do tomorrow:
- cooling and oil lines, fab up the intake, mount and weld the TurboSmart BOV flange, and then random hose fittings to get it to operate.

PICS TO COME IN A COUPLE HOURS, PROMISE!!

[ignus99]

How did you hook up your forge Dv before, and how do you plan on hooking up the OE dv, ATP
Or s3 flange?

Forge DV was a stock mounting location... used stock DV bolts, everything.
The TurboSmart dual BOV/Recirc is a generic one... The piping going to the stock first intercooler is going to be replaced with a stainless steel custom fab, with a flange from TurboSmart welded on... then V-clamped to that flange.

Everything is locked in my head, just need to finish spewing it into my car.

[ignus99]

Heres some updates pics!

I'm now worried my valve cover might be shot... There was oil residue in this breather pipe... Anyone know if I should be concerned?

http://i.imgur.com/ztpOc.jpg

Stock vs GT28RS. The turbo inlet seems to be a little different, but I assume the flexibility of the pipe will allow it to bend up to stock location.
the K03 looks kinda... childish now, haha... the twin scroll is very well designed tho.

http://i.imgur.com/eAamT.jpg

LOOK AT THAT SHAFT PLAY!!! First picture shows it pushed all the way in, second shows pulled all the way out.
It is greater than 1/4"... my turbo has been shot for a while now... I wonder how long [o_o]

http://i.imgur.com/miPkl.jpg

This kinda annoys me about the design of this kit... The purple line shows where I needed to machine off the flange as it would not clear the heat shield.

You can see how much larger the flange is from the stock exhaust points... I can only assume it is for multiple car applications that run the 2.0T

AND, there is now 3 different types of bolts going to my exhaust.
1. Actual bolts fed through from the back
2. Stud threaded into the flange
3. A mounting screw on the flange to the turbo had to be removed, and replaced with a long stud... it is thinner than the other bolts and the nut was not included in the kit.

http://i.imgur.com/gpdkg.jpg

Milling excess metal shown above.

http://i.imgur.com/RO9tk.jpg

IN!!
She looks like a nice fit... now the fab... still need to connect the coolant lines.

http://i.imgur.com/A10cX.jpg




HERES WHERE I NEED YOUR HELP!!

This electronic boost control, attached to the stock wastegate... Will I need to attach this on to my GT28? There is a boost reference point pre-charge... but nothing post charge that this valve requires. While fabbing my intercooler inlet pipe, should I weld a nipple and reuse this why my new wastegate??? If not, should I just hook a charged reference to the wastegate... but then I am stuck at 14.7psi regardless...

THANKS!!!

http://i.imgur.com/PTCjU.jpg

[jimrobbington]

Oil in that tube should be normal. I believe that is the other end of the pcv system.

JR

[jimrobbington]

Also, that is the N75, and I don't think the ecu can work without it unless you have custom tuning.

JR

[ignus99]

Also, that is the N75, and I don't think the ecu can work without it unless you have custom tuning.

JR

Thanks Jim. Looks like when I fab up the intercooler inlet pipe I'll have to weld a nipple on to it somewhere for the charged reference point!
See any issues with doing that? It looks like the 2 references points are just inlet pressure, charged pressure, and then to the wastegate.
But on the K03 it is tapped right from the scroll... I doubt it is any different.

[DRAKLORE]

You can run an MBC in place of the n75. The n75 must be plugged in.
Here's how you need to hook it up
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx33/draklore/324b1068.jpg

And here is how mine is connected with a MBC controlling boost above waste gate spring pressure using the vast paralel MBC:
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx33/draklore/0b3eee70.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx33/draklore/10870bc7.jpg

[DRAKLORE]

The ATP kit I have has a tap on the inlet and one on the outlet for boost reference and atmosphere.

[ignus99]

The ATP kit I have has a tap on the inlet and one on the outlet for boost reference and atmosphere.

Now you make me feel like I am missing something from my kit...
I have the inlet reference, its that big black contraption with 4 pipes come from it.
But the charged pressure is just a outlet to the turbo, no reference nipples...

[DRAKLORE]

Technically you can just use the tap for your boost gauge as a reference.

I looked around on ATPs site and i didn't see the pipe I have in the pics or as an option. I know they have changed the kit around so perhaps I just got lucky. These kits are meant to utilize stock SMIC, where my kit utilizes hookups for an aftermarket FMiC.
I did buy my kit with a couple thousand miles from geoffafa...
Here's a pic I made special for you :-)
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx33/draklore/a8d5ab3b.jpg

[ignus99]

Technically you can just use the tap for your boost gauge as a reference.

I looked around on ATPs site and i didn't see the pipe I have in the pics or as an option. I know they have changed the kit around so perhaps I just got lucky. These kits are meant to utilize stock SMIC, where my kit utilizes hookups for an aftermarket FMiC.
I did buy my kit with a couple thousand miles from geoffafa...
Here's a pic I made special for you :-)

Apparently ATP doesnt provide an option for those pipes anymore!
Ohh well... I am fabbing up my stock SMIC inlet pipe tomorrow, so adding a boost reference nipple wont be much of an issue.
Hope my welder has a booster reference nipple we can weld on... HAH.

BTW... vband on the exhaust test pipe... god I'm jealous... that install would have been a gazillion times easier than the flange they provided.
Solid flange, well engineered... but DAMN it was too wide, annoying to have and mill it down... prob adds an extra pound or 2 my car doesn't need too ;)

[swoardrider]

I was into these GTX models years ago, before they were even out on the market. Basically, I thought these units were going to basically take over the billet wheel competition. Well, I was wrong. But not really. As I mentioned before, these GTX units have a lot of potential. But if you look at the compressor map, they can't really be utilized unless running high boost. These billet wheel options don't really offer what the other companies do which is not only more power, but faster spool. The GTX only offers more power, but not faster spool. Other billet wheels do from other companies, but this is what is said by a company I purchase parts from. These turbos are supposed to spool just like their perspective origin (example, is the GTX2863 and the GT2860RS) and flow like the turbo that is basically one step above. And going by the compressor map, it holds true. Seeing the next step up is a GT2871R and flows at 44lbs/min. And the GTX2863R flows the same, but the pressure ratios vary greatly. So, once again you are correct about it spool like a GT2860RS and flow like a GT2871R (going by item description and flow map). But what it lacks is faster spool and more power (ie spool like a GT28R and flow like a GT2871R).

Not sure if people even bothered to look into the Forced Performance or not, that I mentioned earlier. But this would be a better option for the OP later on. The HTA upgrade not only offers more power, but faster spool (their wheel design). It has been proven to be efficient for years. It is more expensive than $300, but can place the GT2860RS on the power level between the GT3071R and GT3076R...with faster spool (HTA71 upgrade). I plan on going this route with my turbo, but not till later. Just trying to say there are a lot of options on the market. And Competition Turbo offers way more varieties than Forced performance does with the GT28xx upgrades alone. Person in the B6 A4 section who runs one says he was able to get the compressor fins to spin by just blowing on them.

http://www.ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=178&categoryId=181

I have been researching the HTA GTRS, and prior to the K0R and GTX turbo releases, it was the main option for me. I know some of the European TT guys have had good success with it. But talk about splitting hairs vs the GTX. The HTA will spool up 200 RPMs sooner over the old GTRS and out flow the GTX by 3lbs/min at a cost of $635. I'd like to see some dynos and comp map comparos before I'm sold on the extra cost of the HTA over the GTX. I'm also a little worried about taking a new turbo with a manufacturer's warranty, and voiding it by having FP dig into it. Have you heard anything about the HTA's reliability?

[Seerlah]

As Shane stated, you can run an mbc/ebc in place of the mbc and keep the n75 electronically plugged in. And as also stated, you can just tap the compressor housing with a 1/8" npt tap to a 1/4" barb hose fitting. I picked up a tap for my turbo in plans to do this. Also, ATP has quick tap item that you place onto your coupler attached to the compressor outlet for boost pressure source.

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TP&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-010&Category_Code=

I would personally just tap the compressor housing. That is what I opted to do, after already picking up the quick tap.


I have been researching the HTA GTRS, and prior to the K0R and GTX turbo releases, it was the main option for me. I know some of the European TT guys have had good success with it. But talk about splitting hairs vs the GTX. The HTA will spool up 200 RPMs sooner over the old GTRS and out flow the GTX by 3lbs/min at a cost of $635. I'd like to see some dynos and comp map comparos before I'm sold on the extra cost of the HTA over the GTX. I'm also a little worried about taking a new turbo with a manufacturer's warranty, and voiding it by having FP dig into it. Have you heard anything about the HTA's reliability?

People have been running the HTA series for a while now, and I have yet to hear any complaints. You figure that the Evo guys love them, because FP caters them. If that is who then run to for power, then that must speak highly of their reputation. Just as how we know who to run to when it comes to Audi, BMW with their vehicle, etc. I have yet to see a bad review on them, and their feedback is always in the pro. And as you know as I, their upgraded and in house turbochargers have been tried and proven. I am actually under the assumption that the turbo will actually last longer after FP is done with them. That is just an assumption though, seeing how the quality control of Garrett can be iffy at times.

Here is a video is the HTA2868 on the B6 A4 (he is also an AZ member, but can't recall his exact user name (some thing with "bananas" in it). I think there was an issue with surging due to the low displacement, but I think he found a way around that already (got to run out, so don't have time to search for it. but it may have been because of the t25 flange choking the exhaust. not quite sure). And back in the days, there was a person in the B5 A4 section (Militant Grunt) who ran the HTA3076R on either stock displacement and built cylinder head (could have been 1.9L). Both of their videos can be found on youtube.

keep in mind this is 1.8 and not 2.0 and with a T25 flange

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQlAUWx2g54


Keep in mind, this is 1.8 or 1.9L of displacement.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiU2ZkKNUr4&list=UUdYnb6OXKN6EXN4V4Yy5Hbg&index=4&feature=plcp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbURbt8t5gE&list=UUdYnb6OXKN6EXN4V4Yy5Hbg&index=5&feature=plcp

OP, pardon the thread jack. Hope it doesn't bother you too much [cool].

[jerseybrian]

looks pretty sweet! How much did the kit cost you from ATP? PM me if you'd like!

[ignus99]

looks pretty sweet! How much did the kit cost you from ATP? PM me if you'd like!

Heh, its not a secret... I posted the link before, turbo is from ATP.
Link is *HERE* (http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-255&Category_Code=FSI)
I also got the fuel/coolant lines the offer, as well as the intake elbow.


Just over $2200 after taxes and shipping. BOV/Recirc was around $300, random pipes for fittment is around $50, and I am going to assume welding and extra is going to run me $50...

So all in, $2600 plus the cost of pizza for my buddies help.

[ignus99]

OP, pardon the thread jack. Hope it doesn't bother you too much [cool].

You make the assumption I don't enjoy reading your posts.

Haha I don't mind at all. In fact the vid where he managed 339whp from a 1.8T made me happy [;)] maybe I can get that with less boost![:D]

[solaris10]

Refreshing to see someone going down a different route [up]
Good luck with the build ignus99

[Seerlah]

You make the assumption I don't enjoy reading your posts.

Haha I don't mind at all. In fact the vid where he managed 339whp from a 1.8T made me happy [;)] maybe I can get that with less boost![:D]

He was running meth to get those numbers. Not sure how much boost. But still, for a t25 tweaked GT2860RS on meth, those are some good numbers. On a Mustang dyno, at that. With decent boost, you can get damn near close to 300whp...if not 300whp. It will all depend on your tuning and fueling. And if you decide to modify that turbo, it will make achieving more power more easier.

Out of curiosity, in case I missed it, what tuning you going to be running?

[swoardrider]

People have been running the HTA series for a while now, and I have yet to hear any complaints. You figure that the Evo guys love them, because FP caters them. If that is who then run to for power, then that must speak highly of their reputation. Just as how we know who to run to when it comes to Audi, BMW with their vehicle, etc. I have yet to see a bad review on them, and their feedback is always in the pro. And as you know as I, their upgraded and in house turbochargers have been tried and proven. I am actually under the assumption that the turbo will actually last longer after FP is done with them. That is just an assumption though, seeing how the quality control of Garrett can be iffy at times.

Here is a video is the HTA2868 on the B6 A4 (he is also an AZ member, but can't recall his exact user name (some thing with "bananas" in it). I think there was an issue with surging due to the low displacement, but I think he found a way around that already (got to run out, so don't have time to search for it. but it may have been because of the t25 flange choking the exhaust. not quite sure). And back in the days, there was a person in the B5 A4 section (Militant Grunt) who ran the HTA3076R on either stock displacement and built cylinder head (could have been 1.9L). Both of their videos can be found on youtube.

Yes, I've been following bananas' threads for a while now, especially these: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/298206-My-new-compressor-wheel-(TiAL-2868-Turbo) and http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/423753-HTA2868?highlight=hta2868
Seems like the 2.7T guys have had really good luck with the HTA 2868, but, you are correct on the surging for the 1.8T guys. They all seem to have it, regardless of what a/r size. This is what keeps scaring me away from the HTA. On the 2.0T it may not be the case, but I've had the worse luck with mods going wrong with this car ( 2 broken Ohlins, 2 cracked Alcons, cracked wheels, chip issues, etc, etc), so knowing my luck the car will buck and surge like crazy.
Also, if you read bananas' thread you will see that his spool is the same with the old GTRS vs HTA, except the HTA gives more top end (exactly like a GTX), so again, the GTX doesn't seem like a bad choice. The word with you B6 guys, http://m.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/457216-Garrett-s-new-28series-GTX-models!?styleid=12 is that all the billets seem to make more power because they will, and need, more boost. If this is the case than maybe a GTX2860R, not the GTX2863R would be the call. Quick spool and boost the shit outta it for top end??

Also looks like like the GTX2860R will come with anti-surge ports:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/432024_10151231301040103_46944410102_22992368_6618 36360_n.jpg

[Seerlah]

This is my plans for my vehicle. I finally just got done piecing together my T3 GT2871R .63 A/R turbo kit (no half ***ed kit, and have all supporting mods like high flow fuel rail, mocal thermostatic oil cooler kit, 2000* ceramic coated exhaust manifold and turbo housing, Bosch 044 fuel pump, powder coated valve cover, etc). Going to get my ECU flashed tomorrow, since an AZ member let me borrow his spare ECU so I can still drive my car till the weather is nice enough for me to install my kit. My block is weak. People like testing waters and pushing the limits, but I'm going to play it safe with a Eurodyne OTS (off the shelf) 630cc tune and set the boost at 18psi. I am shooting for at least 250whp, at those boost levels. I picked up Brute forged connecting rods, AEB pistons (I have an AWM engine, with smaller wristpins), and my TB is due in roughly 20k miles. Going to drop the oil pan, pop the cylinder head and do it that way when I do my TB. Picking up parts along the way, and only have the honing tool right now (along with rods and pistons). Once I get my engine capable of holding power, I'll crank the boost up and switch over to the Eurodyne ME7 Tuning Suite. Tune it to get 300whp on pump gas (no meth), and have fun with it for a while. Then do the HTA71 upgrade. After I'm done playing with that (going to sell it), place in a Competition Turbo (not sure which one yet) and that should be it for my car. When all is said and done, I want 400whp or damn near close to it on pump gas (93 octane). I'm not too timid of doing the HTA upgrade. Only problem for me is this is a damn expensive hobby and I'm broke. lol. But here is a pic of my setup (mock up).

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee147/seerlah/DSC03300.jpg

I don't plan on the GTX, and kind of regret purchasing the turbo I did. But I was not aware of the Competition turbochargers when I purchased my Garrett. I am going to try to stay away from Garrett, to be honest. Not to be different, but their quality control can be shaky. There are a couple people from my section who have had theirs prematurely fail after like 25k miles. That's no bueno. That is why I believe that the HTA upgrade will actually make them last longer. This is pure assumption, though. If I blow my turbo, then I have no choice but to purchase a new CHRA. Competition Turbos are fully rebuildable, and are triple ceramic ball bearing. I think we need more people to run the GTX to get real world longevity feedback. Till then, I will have my speculations regarding Garrett.

[swoardrider]

^^ Beautiful! My problem is that I have to make it as OEM looking as possible, due to Cali smog. I may be forced to run a K0R, S3 K04, or possibly the ATP kit. ATP is currently the only cast bottom mount that looks pretty OEM for the longitudinal 2.0T that I can find. The ATP is a V band mani. That alone may force me into an ATP GTX. Do all V banded mid-size turbos use the same diameter V band? If so, the Tial turbos may also be an option for me too.

[drumnjuny]

^^ +1 for maestro

[Seerlah]

All systems are custom. Thing is when buying from companies, is you are purchasing "their" custom design. You can do V-band setups however you want. For example, the outlet for my turbo is 2.5". I purchased a 4 bolt 2.5" outlet to 3" v-band adapter, and will get a full custom 3" downpipe made. The part in the pic above is to get me to the shop to get a custom one made (I'll resell that piece). In a nutshell, you can make a system designed however you want. There are adapters for just about anything to make a system how you want it. Even with that piece above, I requested it be made in 3" and taper down to 2.5" to fit my downpipe flange. It originally comes in 2.5". Not sure if you can see it in the pic, but it tapers down after the last bung.

If California emissions is what holds you back, then design your setup to make it look as OEM as possible. I have read threads of tricks people do to pass smog. People have even gone so far as to place a stock ECU and injectors back in (their turbo kit made to look stock still installed). Then just drive over to the testing area as slow as possible, to avoid running lean. Dangerous, but there are ways to beat the system.

[rkesh88]

Doesnt the stock airbox cover most of the turbo so its hard to see what one is running if its a visual inspection?

[ignus99]

Man... this build is going to the shitter... pardon my language.

I am on site right now until tomorrow. I was missing some parts and random hose fittings, I will continue the build on Wednesday.

One question for everyone, how do I fill the coolant and oil lines? At audi they suction out the coolant lines to fill them... but I cannot do that.
A friend of mine suggested holding the turbo when starting the car so it wont spin, then just let it circulate... he claims to have done it before and it will just gently pulsate with the exhaust and not tear off his fingers...

[swoardrider]

Doesnt the stock airbox cover most of the turbo so its hard to see what one is running if its a visual inspection?

It's not too hard to see the factory turbo set up. Anything beyond a cast made bottom mount manifold is gonna stand out.

Stock:http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo109/jimrobbington/Wastegate%20DIY/P1030201.jpg


BAT:http://solidflow.net/build/build_21.jpg

[Seerlah]

Companies will start making other option for the B7 platform. It seems you guys get impatient on how long it takes, but look at it like this. The manifold I'm running was released maybe 2 years ago. My car is a 2001, and was designed by a forum member who owns a B6. Even if counting the last B6, that is still 7 years after the last B6 US model was made. When things become cheaper for you guys, I'm thinking that is when companies will start to invest more. Just a guess though.




One question for everyone, how do I fill the coolant and oil lines? At audi they suction out the coolant lines to fill them... but I cannot do that.
A friend of mine suggested holding the turbo when starting the car so it wont spin, then just let it circulate... he claims to have done it before and it will just gently pulsate with the exhaust and not tear off his fingers...

What do you mean? I am not fluent on the B7, so am sort of lost. If you guys have the 06B, it should be very similar to my 06A. Do the coolant as if you are doing a coolant flush. The coolant does not lubricate anything internal, but simply helps cool down the CHRA. It is basically a huge passage way on the turbo. The oil is what lubricates. As for the oil, use a straw and drop some oil into the feed port before putting your fitting on. This will help alleviate a dry start. Then before you want to do your first start, remove the fuse that will control your fueling. If you don't know which fuse it is, then unclip the electronic injector plugs (you basically don't want the car to turn over at this time). Crank the engine till oil starts to come out of your oil feed line (don't burn out your starter, so let it rest in between cranks). Catch it in a cup. Once oil starts to come out the feed line, then you place it onto the restrictor fitting on your turbo. Crank the car a couple more times, to ensure the oil is now in your CHRA. Now, you should be good to go to turn her over, and not dry start your turbo. But the coolant should be done just like any other coolant flush.

If I'm wrong, someone please correct me.

[Seerlah]

Swoardrider, I highly doubt the person testing your vehicle for smog knows what the stock setup on your B7 looks like. You just need to make a setup that looks very much stock. But if you want to play it safe with something like the RAI K0R-GT kit, then that is totally understandable. That is why many people who live in CA with a B5 or B6 go with the eliminator turbochargers. They can pass for being stock and still pursue 300whp (and get it). But if you can make a mid frame turbo look stock in your vehicle, then by all means pursue that route.

[Seerlah]

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx33/draklore/10870bc7.jpg

Draklore, I just noticed this. You are permitted to run the n75 parallel with the mbc with the n75 not in the intake track? If so, I will maybe hook mine up the same way; never knew. People say the throttle response is much better when running the mbc in conjunction with the n75.

And to not thread derail, updates?

[DRAKLORE]

Its a specific MBC sold by vast, I think if you want a standalone you could pretty much get whatever MBC.
The only function iirc that this MBC is doing is capping the boost, but the N75 still retains a majority of its functions.
All I can really say is it runs much smoother and partial throttle is a lot nicer, while still allowing me to adjust boost manually :-)

The N75 in no way can control the wastegate by itself, crazy overboost :-/
At least so far those are my findings.


And oh yeah- updates? :-)

[ericpaulyoung]

Its a specific MBC sold by vast, I think if you want a standalone you could pretty much get whatever MBC.
The only function iirc that this MBC is doing is capping the boost, but the N75 still retains a majority of its functions.
All I can really say is it runs much smoother and partial throttle is a lot nicer, while still allowing me to adjust boost manually :-)

The N75 in no way can control the wastegate by itself, crazy overboost :-/
At least so far those are my findings.


And oh yeah- updates? :-)

This is really a great design. One thing that worries me as I build my car (whether justified or not) is that the modifications I do will introduce overboost. Is it possible for you to disconnect your setup, and pull some logs to show the fluctuations that your system is fixing? Definitely not asking you to try something that can hurt your baby, just wondering if you have with and with-out logs. Or maybe you just have logs from before you installed it.
- Eric

[RedS-line]

Looks good but why havent you mentioned your tuning yet? Have you not picked out a company yet?

[ericpaulyoung]

Looks good but why havent you mentioned your tuning yet? Have you not picked out a company yet?

I think he said elsewhere that VAST is tuning it.
- Eric

[ignus99]

I think he said elsewhere that VAST is tuning it.
- Eric

Nope... Revo st3. but not till after my HPFP and injectors. I am currently Revo st2
I had my revo dealer contact the head location in florida, apparently they have a BT software for their kit.
Originially it is designed for the GT3076R, but as long as I dont flow MORE air than the GT30 the software works perfect.

Don't quote me, but I think the GT30 is around 50lb/min while the GT28 is around 44lb/min.... sooooo it's not even possible for me to go beyond the limitation.

[jimrobbington]

I am so stoked to see a REVO stage 3 build. I never wanted to leave REVO, so I can't wait to see what it puts out.

JR

[DRAKLORE]

If revo really has software I'm
Going to
Lose
It lol

[Seerlah]

Nope... Revo st3. but not till after my HPFP and injectors. I am currently Revo st2
I had my revo dealer contact the head location in florida, apparently they have a BT software for their kit.
Originially it is designed for the GT3076R, but as long as I dont flow MORE air than the GT30 the software works perfect.

Don't quote me, but I think the GT30 is around 50lb/min while the GT28 is around 44lb/min.... sooooo it's not even possible for me to go beyond the limitation.

GT2860RS flows at roughly 36 lbs/min
GT2871R flows at roughly 44 lbs/min
GT3071R flows at roughly 50 lbs/min
GT3076R flows at roughly 54 lbs/min

I personally was never a fan of running an improper tune. 4 times out of 5, you are going to have to tweak certain parameters to make things run correctly. I am not sure how much your ECU compensates for fueling, but this does not sound like a good thing. Could be wrong though. I don't know the B7 like you guys.

If the A/F ratio is too off, your ECU simply won't be able to correct it. With a tune, your ECU is expecting to see xx amount of air and add xx amount of fuel. The ECU can compensate for your A/F ratio being off only to a certain limit. After that, things go awry.

[BlackGecko]

If revo really has software I'm
Going to
Lose
It lol

Revo's Stage 3 tune is just a myth... or is it?... [evilsmile]

[Seerlah]

http://i.imgur.com/zeDbr.jpg



Just noticed this. What line is missing? Did they expect you to reuse one of your stock ones?

[ignus99]

Just noticed this. What line is missing? Did they expect you to reuse one of your stock ones?

The stock oil drain line was used. It bolted up nicely and there was no need to have it braided. The stainless steel braided lines are definitely nice tho!

Ohh and from my understanding the turbo tune for the 3071 (or 3076, not sure which stage3 is for) can be changed to accommodate for lower amounts of air flow. I'll let you know how it goes when I get it done!

You sure hang around the B7 forum a lot [;)] come join us! [>_<]

[Seerlah]

I venture into many sections [cool]. I just don't post in many of them, but this thread interested me.

[ignus99]

So my rep spoke with REVO, they wont release the St3 file to me.
Apparently the B7 is notoriously shitty for fueling, the intake fuel pump as well as the cylinder head fuel pump are inadequate over 350hp.

Not only will I need to upgrade the cylinder head fuel pump, but also the intake fuel pump before they will contemplate releasing the file to me (and injectors of course)
They were saying something about the car being able to drain the fuel rail, and then the line under high load conditions and running the engine super lean.

Anyone have knowledge of this?

I THINK 034 makes an upgraded intake fuel pump, but I am not sure if this is the correct pump for my application
*Clicky Clicky* (http://www.034motorsport.com/fuel-injection-solutions-fuel-pumps-billet-fuel-pump-upgrade-kit-audivolkswagen-applications-p-19543.html)

[DRAKLORE]

Believe 034 and VAST offer INTANK LPFP solutions..

[DRAKLORE]

I'm. Running the vast LPFP dw300 160$ retry good IMO

[swoardrider]

So my rep spoke with REVO, they wont release the St3 file to me.
Apparently the B7 is notoriously shitty for fueling, the intake fuel pump as well as the cylinder head fuel pump are inadequate over 350hp.

Not only will I need to upgrade the cylinder head fuel pump, but also the intake fuel pump before they will contemplate releasing the file to me (and injectors of course)
They were saying something about the car being able to drain the fuel rail, and then the line under high load conditions and running the engine super lean.

Anyone have knowledge of this?

I THINK 034 makes an upgraded intake fuel pump, but I am not sure if this is the correct pump for my application
*Clicky Clicky* (http://www.034motorsport.com/fuel-injection-solutions-fuel-pumps-billet-fuel-pump-upgrade-kit-audivolkswagen-applications-p-19543.html)

Use your fellow Canadian's stage 3 software: http://www.unitronic-chipped.com/main/en/files/85_2006-2008_audi_a4_b7_20tfsi_200hp.html

Also, that 034 pump won't work on our FSI cars. I doubt the GTRS will require a LPFP solution, as they are usually needed for the 2871 and bigger turbos

[Seerlah]

Have a talk with my tuner (Arnold at Pag Parts). He's very helpful (number is in the "Contact Us" portion of that link). Give him a call and see what options he has for you. Have you considered tuning it yourself with the ME7 suite?

http://pagparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=103_104&products_id=400

[ignus99]

Have a talk with my tuner (Arnold at Pag Parts). He's very helpful (number is in the "Contact Us" portion of that link). Give him a call and see what options he has for you. Have you considered tuning it yourself with the ME7 suite?

http://pagparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=103_104&products_id=400

I really know little about tuning aside from the big ones (Revo and APR)
Revo being a more smooth tune, and APR being a more "race inspired" for lack of a better word...

This requires research, thanks for the heads up!

[Operator]

Use your fellow Canadian's stage 3 software: http://www.unitronic-chipped.com/main/en/files/85_2006-2008_audi_a4_b7_20tfsi_200hp.html

x2, why not use someone local to you? http://unitronic-chipped.com/main/en/dealers/unitronic_dealers.html That will easily work with a StgIII tune for you.

[Seerlah]

Update?

[ignus99]

Update?

I REALLY want to do an update... but there's not much to tell.

Turbos in and running, but I am running the wastegate straight off the charge pressure, and my MAF is still unplugged... I am getting it smoke tested Thursday to see if thats the issue, its honestly the only thing I can comprehend causing the problems.

After that, waiting for fueling parts till I can get it running properly... Sorry to disappoint.

[Seerlah]

Wait a minute, so what's wrong with your car?

[ignus99]

Wait a minute, so what's wrong with your car?

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/474198-MAF-issue-New-turbo-BOV-cause

I have been having some issues with rough idle, going for a smoke test tomorrow to see if there are any leaks.... after that, just gotta wait for more fuel.

[FEEL7331]

oops byproduct= f*kn classic...I'm Jealous, May the turbo be with you!

[Seerlah]

Update?

[ignus99]

Update?

Getting a new MAF sent to me tomorrow, thanks to groundround.
Fueling is in the works. N75 is still unplugged until I get proper fueling. Going to be running REVO st2+ until I can afford either VAST or Unitronic.
When I can get enough money to purchase the new tune I will decide which to go with then... And will do associated research at that time too....
I know this makes the build far less interesting as so many other people have done this setup.
I am still going to be in contact with REVO to see if they will have a BT tune in the near future. I REALLY want to stay with REVO - not only for the price savings, but because I absolutely love their tuning.

Sorry for the lack of progress, new turbo is WICKED fun even with just the wastegate spring dictating the boost pressure. Spool is equally quick as the K03, but with what seems like more of a kick at higher RPM.

K03 @ 18psi = GT28RS @ 9psi.

Can't wait to see what she feels like at 18psi.

[Seerlah]

I find it rather boggling why you guys have to go through some much trouble for tuning. I know the fueling plays a major role, but I'm sure it isn't hard for a tuner to write a file to cater to certain criterion.

What is it exactly you need to upgrade with fueling, to be able to run a GT28xx tune from Revo?

[ignus99]

I find it rather boggling why you guys have to go through some much trouble for tuning. I know the fueling plays a major role, but I'm sure it isn't hard for a tuner to write a file to cater to certain criterion.

What is it exactly you need to upgrade with fueling, to be able to run a GT28xx tune from Revo?

Its not a requirement, just a VERY strong suggestion.
Both the HPFP and the injectors cannot handle the tuning, under WOT and high load conditions its been known to drain the fuel rail causing the cars to run extremely lean.

If you were to go any larger than the GT28, the LPFP would be an issue as well. Audi overall screwed the pooch when it comes to fueling for this car.
Mind you the fueling is sufficient for stock needs....

REVO does have a ST3 tune for the GT3071, but they said they have only released it to a few people, and most of them blew up their engines...
so its pretty much a special request, and a requirement that you have a ton of supporting mods before they deem you able to run their tuning.
I think the required mods before they will even THING about releasing it to you are:
HPFP, LPFP, RS4 injectors, FMIC, CAI, Full exhaust...

They don't even release these requirements on their site, the only reason I know is my local dealer spoke revo and had a nice conversation with them.

[AudiA4_20T]

Maestro

[Seerlah]

^x2

I'm running a Eurodyne OTS GT28xx tune (630cc at 3 bar, on a B5), and will switch to Eurodyne Suite later on. I'm more than sure there are a lot of GT28xx B7 A4 owners out there, but just not on this forum board. If you search the interwebz, I'm sure you will find out what people did to get their cars running efficiently.

Edit: Just did some quick searching, and AWE has a GIAC tune for the GT28xx.

http://www.awe-tuning.com/products/audi-1/a4/a4-2005-5-08/2-0t/awe-b7gt28-71r.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUJpIynhkuU

Not sure how much they would be willing to sell you just the tune for. But if you contacted GIAC or one of their representatives, I'm sure they can get you the file. I'm not sure if you sway towards GIAC or not. Their one off tunes are really nice, from both the B5 and B6 platform. But their OTS tunes, not so much. This is in terms of their Bigger Turbo tunes. But this is a B7, and not a B5 or B6. So, the case may be different. If AWE was able to get 377 chp out of that turbo with the GIAC tune, I think that is very efficient and just about perfect for the output range of that turbo.

I am just trying to show that there are options out there. But if I were you, I would def talk to a Eurodyne dealer (who knows what he is talking about), and see what Suite options there are for your vehicle. Meaning, does CTapp have a base file for that program to cater to your list of mods (ie no upgraded fuel pump). If you called my tuner, he would know (Arnold at Pag Parts).

Edit 2: Ok, just noticed that the tune uses their injectors and HPFP. If upgrading those, I would def go with a different tuning company. Not that GIAC is bad or anything, but I just have a belief that other tuning companies are better. But when it comes to "custom" GIAC tunes, they are really nice.

[viziers]

And if you go with Vast thats your own fault too! Lol


vizi

[swoardrider]

I find it rather boggling why you guys have to go through some much trouble for tuning. I know the fueling plays a major role, but I'm sure it isn't hard for a tuner to write a file to cater to certain criterion.

What is it exactly you need to upgrade with fueling, to be able to run a GT28xx tune from Revo?


Its not a requirement, just a VERY strong suggestion.
Both the HPFP and the injectors cannot handle the tuning, under WOT and high load conditions its been known to drain the fuel rail causing the cars to run extremely lean.

If you were to go any larger than the GT28, the LPFP would be an issue as well. Audi overall screwed the pooch when it comes to fueling for this car.
Mind you the fueling is sufficient for stock needs....

REVO does have a ST3 tune for the GT3071, but they said they have only released it to a few people, and most of them blew up their engines...
so its pretty much a special request, and a requirement that you have a ton of supporting mods before they deem you able to run their tuning.
I think the required mods before they will even THING about releasing it to you are:
HPFP, LPFP, RS4 injectors, FMIC, CAI, Full exhaust...

They don't even release these requirements on their site, the only reason I know is my local dealer spoke revo and had a nice conversation with them.

Hence the reason why its not as easy as saying " I'm gonna run a GTRS, or a GTX, HTA,…….. etc, etc. Unlike you B5/B6 guys, we simply cannot go out and buy a bunch of already proven bolt-on parts, mix and match them, buy an off-the-shelf tune and call it a day. We have major issues with; HPFP, LPFP, injectors, fuel rail valves, carbon build up, limited choice on aftermarket exhaust manifolds, very high EGTs as a result of DI. All of this makes tuning a much bigger challenge than the 1.8 or 2.7 motors. ASP and Vast are the only one's that seem to be on the forefront of mainstream custom tunes. Unitronic is starting to dabble now too, with Maestro. If you follow the few guys here on AZ that went this route, most are constantly tinkering, all day, everyday, and their cars seem to be far from OEM reliable.
Time will tell, but it seems that the problem is our FSI engine were quickly replaced by the superior TFSI engine, which still has many years ahead for itself. Tuners would rather focus on that platform, because long term, that's where the money is, and TFSI is easier to tune because VAG has already fixed many issues that plague the FSI motor.

[Seerlah]

Thanks for the info [cool].

[ignus99]

Got a few updates on my build.

Finally found the photos I took of my TurboSmart Dual Port Recirc/BOV custom intercooler piping.
Essentially cut an elbow from an aluminum tube, welded a bung for a boost reference point (controls my wastegate, not my BOV) and also a bung provided by TurboSmart with a V-Band for the valve.
Cut up the stock intercooler pipe directly off the turbo, couple clamps and I was in business. Since the photo has been taken I flipped the top silicon tube over so it didn't look as rough.

http://i.imgur.com/9EuFS.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zrSA9.jpg



I also got my SnowPerformance W/M Kit St2 from RAI Motorsports. Want to thank the guys down there, they were super reasonable and helpful... VERY easy to talk to, and they took my busted turbo off my hands to be transformed into a nice K0R for someone else!!!

Win win situation!

I ended up splurging a little, I got the solenoid upgrade and a throttle body spacer plate from Usually Sideways Racing to go with the kit.

http://i.imgur.com/1c7ok.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ttSbw.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/OxhA2.jpg




Should have my RS4 injectors show up tomorrow or the day after. Let the install start this weekend!

DOES ANYONE HAVE PHOTOS OF WHERE THEY INSTALLED THEIR SNOWPERFORMANCE METH TANK!?!?!?!

[ericpaulyoung]

Go and order the devils own self sealing tap and use your windshield washer tank. It's the only way to go.
Eric

[digitalAUDI]

any updates on this build?

[ignus99]

Waiting on a HPFP before I do a dyno on Revo ST2+...
Someone is selling me their old one, but he's just gotta replace his first before I can snag his old one ;)

Plus my car is in the process of getting a face lift, so I hope to do a combo thread, face lift unveiling + dyno

[Operator]

Any updates? And are the numbers in your sig the most recent with the GT28RS "275whp, 310wtq UNCORRECTED at 4,000ft AMSL"?

[Operator]

Remember Auditude? He had one of the first 2871 kits on his tiptronic and made over 300whp, that's with a 25% drivetrain loss... If you get less than 300whp with that Garrett turbo you either have a very conservative tune or something is wrong with the car.


Auditude made 318awhp on the 2871. It seems like no one with the 2871 and Quattro has gotten more than in the low 300awhp. Although, like DRKLORE says, tunes are a huge variable, and there might be a lot of power left on the table still.

Also, anyone have a link to this dyno? I'm a pretty legit forum searcher, and found nada.

[Operator]

Any updates? And are the numbers in your sig the most recent with the GT28RS "275whp, 310wtq UNCORRECTED at 4,000ft AMSL"?

Bump again, also what did you end up with tuning wise?

[Lensch09]

Got a few updates on my build.

Finally found the photos I took of my TurboSmart Dual Port Recirc/BOV custom intercooler piping.
Essentially cut an elbow from an aluminum tube, welded a bung for a boost reference point (controls my wastegate, not my BOV) and also a bung provided by TurboSmart with a V-Band for the valve.
Cut up the stock intercooler pipe directly off the turbo, couple clamps and I was in business. Since the photo has been taken I flipped the top silicon tube over so it didn't look as rough.

http://i.imgur.com/9EuFS.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zrSA9.jpg



I also got my SnowPerformance W/M Kit St2 from RAI Motorsports. Want to thank the guys down there, they were super reasonable and helpful... VERY easy to talk to, and they took my busted turbo off my hands to be transformed into a nice K0R for someone else!!!

Win win situation!

I ended up splurging a little, I got the solenoid upgrade and a throttle body spacer plate from Usually Sideways Racing to go with the kit.

http://i.imgur.com/1c7ok.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ttSbw.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/OxhA2.jpg




Should have my RS4 injectors show up tomorrow or the day after. Let the install start this weekend!

DOES ANYONE HAVE PHOTOS OF WHERE THEY INSTALLED THEIR SNOWPERFORMANCE METH TANK!?!?!?!

I enjoy the pictures they used of their throttle body flange on their website ;)

I loaned them some of my pics. It's good stuff
-Dan

[Seerlah]

Bump for updates?

[Operator]

Bump for updates?

Sooooo..........