Bang and Olufsen (B&O) Subwoofer / Amplifier Add-On DIY

[jackp311]

This isn't a very detailed DIY. But, it does show some crucial pictures and, in my opinion most importantly, tells you the wires to be looking for.

Here's links to the products I used. You can use any subwoofer you choose. However, I highly recommend the JL Audio Microsub I list here. It is a great match and very small. The amp is also more than ideal because it pretty much snaps in to the factory location. No additional items were used to secure it and I feel it is very well retained.

Subwoofer (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16637_JL-Audio-CP108LG-W3v3.html)
Amplifier (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33466_Kenwood-KAC-1502S.html)
Power Cable (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21696_Kicker-09PWG8-20FT.html)
Fuse Holder (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9317_e2-EAFH-by-Scosche.html)
Line Out Converter (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4994_Scosche-LOC-80.html)
RCA Cable (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_35365_StreetWires-ZN1205.html)
Ring Terminals (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21836_Absolute-GRT08-5-16.html)
Spade Terminals (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7859_e2-EBS4-4-by-Scosche.html)

With regards to the terminals, power wire, and other miscellaneous items: Just go to those categories and pick whatever has free shipping and the best price at that time. Stay away from cheap wire, though. It is usually thick jacketing and does not have the high strand counts of something nicer. The Kicker stuff I used is extremely flexible and very easy to run along the factory wiring.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4GkVkjHOFDM/TziGSGsN-nI/AAAAAAAAS2g/noczARpBFHQ/s640/2012_%25202_12_19_40.jpg

Start by removing everything in the trunk, trim wise and carpet wise. The trim is removed very easily compared to previous models. Start by flipping up the tie-down hooks. Underneath is two Torx 25 (T25) bolts for each of them. Remove the bolts and the entire hook assembly comes out. Now, remove the trunk mat by unclipping the floor mat style hooks at the front. Just grab them from underneath and lift straight up. Remove the spare tire, the tool cover, and the tools. These just pull out after removing the hand tightened retainer at the top of the assembly. You will need to remove the bracket above the battery. So, you might as well do it now. It's a few 13mm hex head bolts and it will remove when tilted to the rear.

The side trim is the toughest part to remove back here. Remember to pull the trim as close to the clips as possible. If you have a panel puller, it helps. Remove from the back first. Once the back is undone, fold the seats down to remove the front part from inside the car. Just look at everything before you start pulling and you shouldn't mess anything up.

Here is a pic of the clips:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lKJSToBAwsw/TziGPKGOcuI/AAAAAAAAS1o/8-WSJ2F7ofA/s800/2012_%25202_12_19_40.jpg

If you break one, it won't be the clip that breaks. It will be the plastic used to hold the clip to the carpet. In a worse-case scenario, you can glue these back together with hot glue or an adhesive of your choice. Otherwise, it's a whole new carpet piece. ($$$) Like I said, go slowly and carefully.

Once you're done removing items. The first place we tackled is the remote turn on lead. We didn't find any in the audio harness. So, we went to the fuse box on the other side. The entire red row of fuses is switched +12V. So, it's the perfect place to tap. The guy that did this with me only solders and heat shrinks, no wire taps. Learn to solder on something else outside the car, first, though. It's cramped.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dwYtB_U-Fnk/TziGQ9PXJtI/AAAAAAAAS2I/0T77adSDrJY/s800/2012_%25202_12_19_40.jpg

The wire you're after is black with a purple trace. Use a razor or sharp blade to cut the insulation and pull it back. Do not cut through the wire. Now, using a pick or sharp object, open a hole in the wiring to splice in your +12V wire. Add that in and solder it up. Now, wrap it up with quality electrical tape. Run that across to the other side of the trunk.

A note about running wires. Always run them along factory wires and zip tie them on, even if it seems out of the way. If you go in for service and they have to remove the wiring, they will be careful doing it as it may mess up other items. If it's just laying there, they'll rip it out and cause you a headache later.

Now, on to the amp itself.

Here is the left side of the trunk area with everything removed.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-BZ_3ODI-tfo/TziGS-6tFWI/AAAAAAAAS2w/sFcAsLCI9J0/s800/2012_%25202_12_19_40.jpg

There are four fasteners to undo. All are 10mm hex head. Two are on the bottom of the bracket holding the top amp. The other two are in back of the top amp. Be careful not to drop these two in the back, it's a tight spot. Once removed, the amp assembly tilts out. Just leave it connected for now.

Let's wire in the LOC. The wires we're after are White and Yellow (positive) and Blue and Yellow (negative). These can be cut directly, no splicing. Once cut, solder in the leads to your LOC. If you have a two channel LOC like the one I picture, twist both positive leads together and both negative leads. This will make it a mono signal.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7Bbjgx5YuCM/TziGRS9_lhI/AAAAAAAAS2Q/kS8j9Aw3Rok/s800/2012_%25202_12_19_40.jpg

Now, place your amp in the space between the two factory amps. It almost snaps in there. It's PERFECT, isn't it? You're welcome. Use some double sided foam tape or strong velcro to secure the LOC to the top of the amp. You can now begin your power wiring.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3X85tPO1gX8/TziGRqJ68TI/AAAAAAAAS2Y/mU1U0XlWSv8/s800/2012_%25202_12_19_40.jpg

Before running your positive wire to the battery, tape up the other end of it. If it catches ground, that's a short around the battery, big no no. Use a ring terminal to attach to the factory battery post. There is a nut available to do this.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R9q6x0wFORU/TziGQSRKJ0I/AAAAAAAAS2A/jIBiRtaey_Q/s800/2012_%25202_12_19_40.jpg

Again, run your wiring along factory paths. The fuse holder sits perfectly right here.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JH2Js-NlyBQ/TziGP9J0sHI/AAAAAAAAS14/EoUCMZlQ4-I/s800/2012_%25202_12_19_40.jpg

Above and to the right of the factory amp rack is a factory ground nut. Use this and a ring terminal for your ground. Cut your wires to length, attach spade terminals and plug them into your amp. Now you can put the fuse in the fuse holder and complete the circuit.

You're almost done. Run a short RCA cable (18" is perfect) from the LOC to the amp. Max the gains on the LOC and start low on the amp. You will need a short run of wire to get to the sub from your amp. Attach spade terminals and lock it into the amp. As you reassemble things, pull the speaker wire from under the left side carpet out into the tire area. Leave yourself enough to play with placement of the sub. Once you place the sub where you would like, you can set the gains and listen for clipping. Please note that the way this is wired, the sub only comes on with ignition on, not in accessory mode.

Here's the finished amp install:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_8Y8BeuWU8A/TziGPitlIgI/AAAAAAAAS1w/e0K9vve-jX0/s800/2012_%25202_12_19_40.jpg

It looks very factory. I couldn't be happier.

Reassemble everything and place your sub in its final spot. It can be secured using the hook side of industrial velcro. If you have 1/2" staples and a gun, you can staple the velcro to the box. Don't use anything longer than 1/2", though, or you'll penetrate the sealed airspace. Place two 2" x 2" strips on the bottom and one long run across the top. It will grab the factory carpet very well.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-de9LWhj9mn0/Tzk-OWAUWhI/AAAAAAAAS3E/FY6HiPUOOAg/s800/2012_%25202_13_%25208_45.jpg

In my opinion, this amp and sub combo is a perfect match. I will be looking for a way to add a sub volume control to the factory B&O menu on the MMI. I would love to be able to turn it down on the bass heavy songs. But, otherwise, I couldn't be happier.

PM me with any questions and I hope this helps.

Thanks!

[ChrisB8S4]

Thanks for this post. I may try it.

[RavinJetta]

Very nice writeup

[tchuck]

Nice write-up.

[pf_lewis]

Awesome write up[up] I just installed my system off your DIY. Thanks for adding the remote tap line- would never have found that myself! How do you like that microsub box? What type of music does/doesn't sound good on it?
Thanks

[mattchat]

Not too shabby, this looks really simple. Thanks for the write up. I'm a total noob to Audi's, waiting on my 2013 right now. Is that a battery under the spare tire for the amps?? If so, that is fantastic...Audi's really do design there stuff well. The factory sub looks like it is sitting in there as well, a little closer to the seats on the trunk floor, is that it? I have used JL for a long time and am impressed with the little 8 inch ported sub box I have in my current ride. Great Write Up!!

What's the difference in sound? Any thoughts on using the remote connection to run a sub level switch to the cabin? If you can get it to work on the MMI menu system, even better.

[jackp311]

Lewis: The sub sounds good on everything. I really like it. It rolls of pretty fast below 30hz or so. So, it's no 12" in a free air setup. But, it is very punchy and musical. They also make a dual 8 version and a 6" version now.
Matt: I added a passive remote gain setup a few weekends ago. w/ B&O, you cannot get sub level on MMI (stinks, I know). The factory sub is up on the bottom of the parcel shelf. The items you see in the wheel well are some electronics. Check out the remote gain knob here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/103333835948753595997/RemoteGainKnob?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMf2w-XdrrqAMA&feat=directlink

[dizzlesizzle]

Very nice write up and thank you for the easy remote wire tap in location, i was looking for something back there and that's the perfect location. I do have a few questions...Where are these White and Yellow (positive) and Blue and Yellow (negative) coming from? Are these the leads from the factory Amp to the factory sub? I ask this because a few months back i tapped into the positive and negative leads going to the factory sub and used those as the signal wire for the high pass connection (not sure if that's the right terminology) to my amp rather than running LOC and RCA cable since the amp had this available as a connection. I was able to get a signal but the problem was no matter how low (completely at -0 bass level on the amp) and bass turned all the way down on the MMI i had nothing but distorted bass from anything i played. The only thing that sounded "OK" or reasonable to listen was some remastered Pink Floyd 320bit rate off my iPod. I also noticed the amp getting hotter than usual which i never noticed having in another car before my S4 so i removed it all. Not sure if it was an issue with the signal coming off the factory amp then being used as a signal in another amp? Also are u using a special amp and speaker i know JL, i think Audi's us a 8 Ohm rather than 4 Ohm which most amps/speakers are (don't quote me). I would really like to reinstall my amp and speaker, maybe adding the LOC will fix it all?

[cory_can]

Very nice write up and thank you for the easy remote wire tap in location, i was looking for something back there and that's the perfect location. I do have a few questions...Where are these White and Yellow (positive) and Blue and Yellow (negative) coming from? Are these the leads from the factory Amp to the factory sub? I ask this because a few months back i tapped into the positive and negative leads going to the factory sub and used those as the signal wire for the high pass connection (not sure if that's the right terminology) to my amp rather than running LOC and RCA cable since the amp had this available as a connection. I was able to get a signal but the problem was no matter how low (completely at -0 bass level on the amp) and bass turned all the way down on the MMI i had nothing but distorted bass from anything i played. The only thing that sounded "OK" or reasonable to listen was some remastered Pink Floyd 320bit rate off my iPod. I also noticed the amp getting hotter than usual which i never noticed having in another car before my S4 so i removed it all. Not sure if it was an issue with the signal coming off the factory amp then being used as a signal in another amp? Also are u using a special amp and speaker i know JL, i think Audi's us a 8 Ohm rather than 4 Ohm which most amps/speakers are (don't quote me). I would really like to reinstall my amp and speaker, maybe adding the LOC will fix it all?

Read here for additional info....
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/370286-B8-Aftermarket-Sound-System-Pictures

Yes, you need a LOC unless your aftermarket amp can cope with high voltage inputs (not many do). There is lots of information about this subject in the link provided.

[dizzlesizzle]

Read here for additional info....
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/370286-B8-Aftermarket-Sound-System-Pictures

Yes, you need a LOC unless your aftermarket amp can cope with high voltage inputs (not many do). There is lots of information about this subject in the link provided.

Thanks Cory...I will give it a read through.

[captain.ahab]

Let's wire in the LOC. The wires we're after are White and Yellow (positive) and Blue and Yellow (negative). These can be cut directly, no splicing. Once cut, solder in the leads to your LOC. If you have a two channel LOC like the one I picture, twist both positive leads together and both negative leads. This will make it a mono signal.


I am doing an install on my 2010 A4 B8 with B&O system and Navi, and will be using a LOC to generate signal for my amp. You mention above using the "White and Yellow (positive) and Blue and Yellow (negative)", and I am wondering which sound output those are. Is that the rear sub signal? I have reviewed a number of forum posts elsewhere, and it looks like some people have used the left/right rear speaker wires for inputs. Did you try or compare the sound quality from those during your install? The concern being that the rear sub signal would be modified in some way (potentially in a way that negatively impacts sound) by the factory HU.

Thanks!

[jackp311]

I am doing an install on my 2010 A4 B8 with B&O system and Navi, and will be using a LOC to generate signal for my amp. You mention above using the "White and Yellow (positive) and Blue and Yellow (negative)", and I am wondering which sound output those are. Is that the rear sub signal? I have reviewed a number of forum posts elsewhere, and it looks like some people have used the left/right rear speaker wires for inputs. Did you try or compare the sound quality from those during your install? The concern being that the rear sub signal would be modified in some way (potentially in a way that negatively impacts sound) by the factory HU.

Thanks!

I thought about that when selecting the sub signal for my choice. The rear speakers are 5.25" drivers and are likely crossed over around 70hz at the lowest. You will not be getting much sub-bass from those outputs. Yes, the signal coming from the factory sub is likely eq'ed quite a bit and not a nice flat signal. But, that is the best choice and the lesser of two evils.

[DJayG3]

I have been having discussions with the techs at my work (Audi Dealer). He reccomended not grabbing power at the battery post because the car monitors draws on the battery not at the post but at the black box (voltage sensor) that is right near the battery in trunk. His reasoning behind this was that our S4s can shut off the alternator (charging) and individual car systems if it senses draws on the battery. But this alternator/charging control comes after the battery and that putting draw on it before the discharge sensor could result in premature battery drain and insuffcient charge.

Has anybody noticed anything like this? I tend to believe the tech at my work because he is the shop foreman and been wrenching Audis a long ass time. Id love to hear some conversation about this....

[jackp311]

I have been having discussions with the techs at my work (Audi Dealer). He reccomended not grabbing power at the battery post because the car monitors draws on the battery not at the post but at the black box (voltage sensor) that is right near the battery in trunk. His reasoning behind this was that our S4s can shut off the alternator (charging) and individual car systems if it senses draws on the battery. But this alternator/charging control comes after the battery and that putting draw on it before the discharge sensor could result in premature battery drain and insuffcient charge.

Has anybody noticed anything like this? I tend to believe the tech at my work because he is the shop foreman and been wrenching Audis a long ass time. Id love to hear some conversation about this....

That's interesting - I haven't had anything weird happen - My voltage is pretty consistent, I have a voltmeter built into the P3 Cars gauge - anyone else notice anything weird?

[DJayG3]

I wanted to tell him he was full of shit...I have never heard anything like this before. However, he explained it to me with facts and it made sense.

If you havent noticed anything then I would say he is just overcomplicating it. I wonder what the long term effects are, you know after a few years. He said that you could expect residual effects from the charging....I wish there was info about this, I mean our cars are still pretty new.

[jackp311]

Here's the thing - the whole electricity system is one circuit - so, it should matter if I connected it at the battery or in the glove box, there is no before or after when it comes to current draw - the system is experiencing the load, not one particular area.

[QuattroRocket]

Great write up thanks for the effort ! I am totally on the fence about the stereo upgrades. I have been a "audiophile" for many years but really wanted to avoid it in this car ... we'll see how long I can hold out !

[jackp311]

FWIW - I don't think the B8 cars have this alternator disabling feature - does anyone know for sure? (I think it's b8.5s only.)

[DJayG3]

Here's the thing - the whole electricity system is one circuit - so, it should matter if I connected it at the battery or in the glove box, there is no before or after when it comes to current draw - the system is experiencing the load, not one particular area.

I completely agree. That's why I wanted to call bullshit. My background with wiring and stereos is pretty extensive and I was comletely unaware of any such monitoring system. But it does make sense that the "electricity circuit" is one circuit, but if that circuit starts AFTER the battery then it is justifiable...you know? If the computer in the car looks for draw anywhere after the discharging module (thats what I'm gonna call it) then it can locate a draw and it is irrelavant as to where...it would be able to adapt and compensate.

But if the circuit begins not at the battery but at the discharging sensor and you put a draw where the car/circuit cant see it then it makes sense. The new Audis have crazy electronics and I am trying to be deliberate about my intended changes. I have NEVER heard of anything like this, but with the way these cars have changed it is legitimate and explainable.

Dont get me wrong, Im not trying to beat a dead horse here...but this is why I joined the forum today. Real life experiences with the mods that I havent done yet. Im gonna see if I can even locate said discharging module and then Ill put more stock in his warning.

[DJayG3]

FWIW - I don't think the B8 cars have this alternator disabling feature - does anyone know for sure? (I think it's b8.5s only.)

Also a good point I over looked [up]

[kdub]

Here's the thing - the whole electricity system is one circuit - so, it should matter if I connected it at the battery or in the glove box, there is no before or after when it comes to current draw - the system is experiencing the load, not one particular area.

I think you're assuming that you can measure current draw like you can voltage - this is entirely not true. Measuring current has to be performed in series with the load because you are basically measuring the flow of electrons through a certain point of a circuit. Apparently Audi has this black box that measures the current flow from the battery to all systems in the vehicle, which is why all electrical systems are connected downstream of this black box (I'm assuming). If you connect another load upstream of this current measuring device, it won't be able to measure the current being drawn because it's not flowing through the black box.

Now I don't know what Audi uses the current draw measurement for, but if it's for battery conditioning, then it may be a good idea to connect the amplifier downstream of the black box. On the other side of the coin, if you do this and the brains of the vehicle sees an unexpected current draw on the system, will it think something is wrong?

[jackp311]

Hmm - didn't think of it like that - I'm not an electrical engineer. Maybe someone who is can chime in...? I went back and looked at the pics to see if I could see any boxes. I do remember seeing more than one wire coming off the positive battery post. So, there are definitely some items that are not put through that box if there is one on my car.

[DJayG3]

Now I don't know what Audi uses the current draw measurement for, but if it's for battery conditioning, then it may be a good idea to connect the amplifier downstream of the black box. On the other side of the coin, if you do this and the brains of the vehicle sees an unexpected current draw on the system, will it think something is wrong?

I am pretty sure they use it save the alternator's life. I was explained, by the tech at my work, that the car can actually disengage the magnets in the alternator...again I dont see how this is possible[confused] but I think this why you see a "battery discharging" warning when you start the car to warm it up (center cluster when exiting the vehicle after cold start).

Again, based on advice from an Audi tech, he said the car wouldnt think something is wrong, but actually not even know there was a problem and not apply charge to the battery when it is actually needed. Which is why all this started....

This is def a great DIY...especially the amp placement [up]...I plan on installing my amp and sub on wed and I will be grabbing power at a different location than directly at 12+ post on battery.

[jdomasi]

any update on the amp draw?

[QuattroRocket]

Great post and nice setup, its always bothered me that the strongest bass comes from the front of the cabin, seems to throw off the sound stage. Nevermind the lack of true sub bass output at all.

[Elanmike]

Hmm - didn't think of it like that - I'm not an electrical engineer. Maybe someone who is can chime in...? I went back and looked at the pics to see if I could see any boxes. I do remember seeing more than one wire coming off the positive battery post. So, there are definitely some items that are not put through that box if there is one on my car.

I work in the Semiconductor field and one of my products was the chip that goes in that little black box. The battery sensor monitors the voltage, temperature and current to/from the battery to give an accurate state of charge and state of health. The chip protects the battery from over voltage and over current, and can calculate whether the battery is getting old or if there is not enough charge to start the car. They first appeared on cars with stop-start, where they would stop the car from automatically turning off if there wasn't enough charge to restart, but are now expanding to more models where they can signal the need to change the battery before you get stuck somewhere and can't start. I'm not sure if our Audi's have these, but sounds right from what has been posted.
Over the next few years, you'll see cars moving from the Lead-Acid batteries we have today to Li-ion batteries- the same as used in your cell-phone and laptop. The Li-ion batteries remove the lead, but require closer monitoring to prevent Over voltage or over current which can lead to fire risks (think Boing Dream-liner and Chevy Volt). All cars with these need a battery monitoring system.
That was probably way more than you wanted to know, but you asked an engineer to chime in, and when you do that, that's what you get!
Bottom line - connect your amp to the other side of the black box.

[cspcrx]

Great info but where would that tie in point be then?

[vsbliss]

great post. thanks for the info

[gendry]

Anyone try this for 2013 B8.5 models? I want in. Curious if any difference between B8 and B8.5 for this.

[youngwallst]

Awesome set up man! I've been thinking of adding a bigger sub and amp to my B&O... Only question I have is, are the stock speakers able to handle more juice?

[cspcrx]

I am pretty sure they use it save the alternator's life. I was explained, by the tech at my work, that the car can actually disengage the magnets in the alternator...again I dont see how this is possible[confused] but I think this why you see a "battery discharging" warning when you start the car to warm it up (center cluster when exiting the vehicle after cold start).

Again, based on advice from an Audi tech, he said the car wouldnt think something is wrong, but actually not even know there was a problem and not apply charge to the battery when it is actually needed. Which is why all this started....

This is def a great DIY...especially the amp placement [up]...I plan on installing my amp and sub on wed and I will be grabbing power at a different location than directly at 12+ post on battery.

So where did you grab power and how is it working?

[gendry]

Someone should answer this sharp gentleman's question. Its a really good one!

Any B8.5s do this? It work the same?


Anyone try this for 2013 B8.5 models? I want in. Curious if any difference between B8 and B8.5 for this.

[gendry]

Hmm, guessing nobody has tried on a B8.5. Okay let me try asking it a different way then -- anyone have any reason to suspect the B8.5 would be any different? I know the MMI has been updated, but anything about the sound system?


Someone should answer this sharp gentleman's question. Its a really good one!

Any B8.5s do this? It work the same?

[dparm]

Hmm, guessing nobody has tried on a B8.5. Okay let me try asking it a different way then -- anyone have any reason to suspect the B8.5 would be any different? I know the MMI has been updated, but anything about the sound system?


It's very possible the wiring was changed. Don't assume anything.

[diegom305]

Quick question, i am planning to change just the SUB, i am thinking on putting a dual coil 4 ohm subwoofer, connect the coils in series so they are 1 8ohm sub. i am not thinking on adding an amp.

Question for you here is. is it better to go with a 8ohm sub or my idea of going with a dual coil 4ohm sub will work? planning to go with Rockford Fosgate R2 Ultra Shallow 10-Inch 4 Ohm DVC Subwoofer http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R2SD410/Rockford-Fosgate-R2SD4-10.html because of the type of sub. Not looking to break my car with the sub, i am just looking to have a better bass sound than my nearly silent B&O subwoofer. i feel better bass sound on my front doors than the 1 coming from the back.... used to have sums and amps in my previous cars but here i dont want the headache, just planning to dynomat and change the sub. Please let me know your thoughts on this before placing any orders. Thanks.

[gendry]

I am in same boat, so whatever you end up doing, please report back and consider a lil DIY guide for the rest of us followers.

If you put two 4 ohm subs in series, your amp will see the same thing as a 8 ohm sub and produce the same current - so from your amp's perspective I assume it would be okay. That said, each sub will only get half the voltage drop a single sub would get, so the subs might act as if you had cut the gain on your amp in half (i.e., they may be very quiet or simply not drive). So I would look to enhance the system a different way. But maybe someone with more exp in this area can correct me or give you a better answer...


Quick question, i am planning to change just the SUB, i am thinking on putting a dual coil 4 ohm subwoofer, connect the coils in series so they are 1 8ohm sub. i am not thinking on adding an amp.

Question for you here is. is it better to go with a 8ohm sub or my idea of going with a dual coil 4ohm sub will work? planning to go with Rockford Fosgate R2 Ultra Shallow 10-Inch 4 Ohm DVC Subwoofer http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R2SD410/Rockford-Fosgate-R2SD4-10.html because of the type of sub. Not looking to break my car with the sub, i am just looking to have a better bass sound than my nearly silent B&O subwoofer. i feel better bass sound on my front doors than the 1 coming from the back.... used to have sums and amps in my previous cars but here i dont want the headache, just planning to dynomat and change the sub. Please let me know your thoughts on this before placing any orders. Thanks.

[diegom305]

I am in same boat, so whatever you end up doing, please report back and consider a lil DIY guide for the rest of us followers.

Just called my old car audio installer from venezuela, he told me to forget about the shallow design of subwoofers because they are all designed to be inside enclosures, that said. HE told me to go for Kicker Comp D subwoofers. Dual 4ohm coil because they can be easily moved by any amplifier. Which means i dont need to run a bigger amp. i DO NOT want to add an amp and change wires, just want to swap the peace of crap they put as sub in our cars and get just a better kick from it.

here is the link for the sub he recommended.... http://www.kicker.com/CompD dont know when i am ordering but will be soon. just need to be 100% on knowing that this one will be moved by our OEM amp.

Where are the experts here?

[dizzlesizzle]

To be honest u wont get much better sound if you continue to use the factory amp...just not enough power going to the sub IMO. I tried, maybe it was the sub I was using i dunno. Your best best is to disconnect the factory sub and use a LOC and get an aftermarket amp.

[diegom305]

To be honest u wont get much better sound if you continue to use the factory amp...just not enough power going to the sub IMO. I tried, maybe it was the sub I was using i dunno. Your best best is to disconnect the factory sub and use a LOC and get an aftermarket amp.

Thanks but my whole idea is not running wires, disconnecting, reconnecting... I will continue on my research for a lower voltage sub. i am sure must be some out there.

Planning to wait few more responsed before i jump in the pool with the compD series from kicker. Plus i am not looking for a crazy bass, feeling that i have a subwoofer in my car, because the OEM one is like is really not there.

[dizzlesizzle]

Well there's not many wires that need to be run...your battery is in the back, you can pick up a ground on the left side of the trunk, if you have a B8 the whole red fuse row is switchable for your remote and just add two taps to the factory sub wires to a LOC. Will only take 20min max and can be removed and factory amp connected back at anytime.

[diegom305]

Well there's not many wires that need to be run...your battery is in the back, you can pick up a ground on the left side of the trunk, if you have a B8 the whole red fuse row is switchable for your remote and just add two taps to the factory sub wires to a LOC. Will only take 20min max and can be removed and factory amp connected back at anytime.
Mine is B8.5 any good recommendations for a small monoblock amp.. And sorry but I don't know what a LOC is. So if you can give me some pointers that could be good too. Thx

[dizzlesizzle]

Not 100% but the B8.5 doesn't have the switchable 12v in the trunk like the B8, you would have to run a wire from the drives side fuse box unfortunately. With that said, there are plenty of amps on the market that don't require a remote wire for on/off operations. They use the audio signal for sensing when to power on/off the amp. I would look for one of those. A LOC is a line out converter, its able to take the higher voltage signal from the factory amp to sub and drop it down to a RCA low-pass output. Here is a link to the one i bought which works great. http://www.amazon.com/LC2i-Audiocontrol-2-channel-converter-factory/dp/B004CTBYGE

[diegom305]

Not 100% but the B8.5 doesn't have the switchable 12v in the trunk like the B8, you would have to run a wire from the drives side fuse box unfortunately. With that said, there are plenty of amps on the market that don't require a remote wire for on/off operations. They use the audio signal for sensing when to power on/off the amp. I would look for one of those. A LOC is a line out converter, its able to take the higher voltage signal from the factory amp to sub and drop it down to a RCA low-pass output. Here is a link to the one i bought which works great. http://www.amazon.com/LC2i-Audiocontrol-2-channel-converter-factory/dp/B004CTBYGE
Thx. Gonna start looking for more info. Videos of your car on amp and sub? Overall sound? Waay better or just better?

[diegom305]

I found this.

This could be very helpful for all of us just wanting to swap the sub.

no need to do it only for a 8ohm one, we can use a dual coil 4 ohm and connect it like this. THis will show the amp like there is 1 8ohm connected

http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/diegomedinaf/howtoconnect_zpse4d44e0e.jpg (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/diegomedinaf/media/howtoconnect_zpse4d44e0e.jpg.html)

[jackp311]

For those of you just wanting to upgrade the sub and not put in an amp, I definitely advise against it. Any sub that is of a decent quality will likely be able to handle much more power than the one you are replacing. Bearing that in mind, it's probably going to take MORE power than the amp can provide to really get it playing. That being said, if you insist on doing something freeair like the factory sub, get a sub with a QTS of .6 or more.

[diegom305]

For those of you just wanting to upgrade the sub and not put in an amp, I definitely advise against it. Any sub that is of a decent quality will likely be able to handle much more power than the one you are replacing. Bearing that in mind, it's probably going to take MORE power than the amp can provide to really get it playing. That being said, if you insist on doing something freeair like the factory sub, get a sub with a QTS of .6 or more.
Can you point me to few models.? I have no idea what is qts. I really don't want to mess with wiring so I think just swapping the sub will kick better than the oem b&o in my car

[MVR 155]

Can you point me to few models.? I have no idea what is qts. I really don't want to mess with wiring so I think just swapping the sub will kick better than the oem b&o in my car

Qts for someone who is not into this kind of stuff is completely greek. You will need a sub with adequate free air capability. What he told you is correct in terms of just adding a sub with no amp..... it will likely sound worse as the factory B&O amp is not going to drive an aftermarket subwoofer...... This is the biggest mistake that amateurs attempting to upgrade audio make. If you don't want to mess with wiring take your car to a trusted shop and have them do the install. If you have basic automotive/wiring knowledge putting a sub into one of these cars is a breeze. There are plenty of step by step write ups to effectively do this on your own providing you possess the basic knowledge. Not trying to give you a hard time but being truthful is going to save you time, headaches and $$$$$

I can tell you that adding a sub and amp to the factory B&O will completely transform the sound system in this car. If you honestly want the best sound then I would suggest removing the sub from the rear package tray/panel all together, the rear panel lacks the integrity and is known to fluctuate badly in these cars. Free air setups typically lack the accuracy of a sealed enclosure. A sealed enclosure in the trunk will yield the best sound and with all of the small enclosure subs currently available you don't have to sacrifice hardly anything in the way of trunk space. Removal of the B&O enclosure makes a great "pass through" into the car so the new sub in the trunk can do it's work. Grabbing the signal for the amp (that will power the sub) is very easily accessed at the plug from the factory B&O sub. The battery is in the trunk so there are no wires to run through the cabin/firewall/under hood. Im running an Alpine SWE-12S4 (12" 4ohm sub with a 250W RMS rating) in a ATrend B Box Pro that has a volume of .88 cubic feet. The sub is rated for a .65-1.0 cubic foot box so this is a great match. Powering the sub is a Kicker 500.1 mono amp which has a 275w RMS rating at 4ohms.... this is slightly over what the sub is rated at RMS but I have the gain down pretty low along with a remote knob in the cabin which I do not go full tilt with. This set up sounds absolutely amazing. Best of all the price for everything was under $400. I already had the LOC, wiring kit/fuse block and RCA's so figure up to another $100 for that stuff..... still has you under $500 for everything. A shop should not charge you more than a couple of hundred to do this type of install so even then your not looking at much coin for the whole thing out the door. I purchased my stuff at a local shop www.abt.com (they are a huge electronics/high end audio store).

[integroid]

For those of you just wanting to upgrade the sub and not put in an amp, I definitely advise against it. Any sub that is of a decent quality will likely be able to handle much more power than the one you are replacing. Bearing that in mind, it's probably going to take MORE power than the amp can provide to really get it playing. That being said, if you insist on doing something freeair like the factory sub, get a sub with a QTS of .6 or more.


Qts for someone who is not into this kind of stuff is completely greek. You will need a sub with adequate free air capability. What he told you is correct in terms of just adding a sub with no amp..... it will likely sound worse as the factory B&O amp is not going to drive an aftermarket subwoofer...... This is the biggest mistake that amateurs attempting to upgrade audio make. If you don't want to mess with wiring take your car to a trusted shop and have them do the install. If you have basic automotive/wiring knowledge putting a sub into one of these cars is a breeze. There are plenty of step by step write ups to effectively do this on your own providing you possess the basic knowledge. Not trying to give you a hard time but being truthful is going to save you time, headaches and $$$$$

I can tell you that adding a sub and amp to the factory B&O will completely transform the sound system in this car. If you honestly want the best sound then I would suggest removing the sub from the rear package tray/panel all together, the rear panel lacks the integrity and is known to fluctuate badly in these cars. Free air setups typically lack the accuracy of a sealed enclosure. A sealed enclosure in the trunk will yield the best sound and with all of the small enclosure subs currently available you don't have to sacrifice hardly anything in the way of trunk space. Removal of the B&O enclosure makes a great "pass through" into the car so the new sub in the trunk can do it's work. Grabbing the signal for the amp (that will power the sub) is very easily accessed at the plug from the factory B&O sub. The battery is in the trunk so there are no wires to run through the cabin/firewall/under hood. Im running an Alpine SWE-12S4 (12" 4ohm sub with a 250W RMS rating) in a ATrend B Box Pro that has a volume of .88 cubic feet. The sub is rated for a .65-1.0 cubic foot box so this is a great match. Powering the sub is a Kicker 500.1 mono amp which has a 275w RMS rating at 4ohms.... this is slightly over what the sub is rated at RMS but I have the gain down pretty low along with a remote knob in the cabin which I do not go full tilt with. This set up sounds absolutely amazing. Best of all the price for everything was under $400. I already had the LOC, wiring kit/fuse block and RCA's so figure up to another $100 for that stuff..... still has you under $500 for everything. A shop should not charge you more than a couple of hundred to do this type of install so even then your not looking at much coin for the whole thing out the door. I purchased my stuff at a local shop www.abt.com (they are a huge electronics/high end audio store).

I am going to have to disagree with the two of you. I replaced my factory sub with a Kicker 10" sub in the factory location and ran it on the stock amp for a few weeks before my amp came in. It sounded much better than the stock sub. In fairness, I did have a few layers of sound deadening and a 4 ohm sub (OMGWTFBBQ) and no harm was done to the factory amp. For someone that wants a little more low end bass I think it is a perfect mod. I am in the process of trying to figure out a way to get a sealed enclosure as the free air sub with an aftermarket amp is just too boomy and not very crisp.

[MVR 155]

I am going to have to disagree with the two of you. I replaced my factory sub with a Kicker 10" sub in the factory location and ran it on the stock amp for a few weeks before my amp came in. It sounded much better than the stock sub. In fairness, I did have a few layers of sound deadening and a 4 ohm sub (OMGWTFBBQ) and no harm was done to the factory amp. For someone that wants a little more low end bass I think it is a perfect mod. I am in the process of trying to figure out a way to get a sealed enclosure as the free air sub with an aftermarket amp is just too boomy and not very crisp.]

That is good to know but those results are not typical. Factory speakers are normally very efficient in terms of power handling so they can be driven by amps that don't have a ton of power. After market speakers typically need higher power levels to drive them effectively, running a speaker that is somewhat efficient in a free air setup may be the reason you had OK results, is the sub you purchased specifically designed to operate in a free air enclosure? Do you have the model number/specs for the exact sub your running? Would be good info to post if you got good results from it. Sorry for all the questions but it could definitely help out the guy looking to go this route.

[integroid]

]

That is good to know but those results are not typical. Factory speakers are normally very efficient in terms of power handling so they can be driven by amps that don't have a ton of power. After market speakers typically need higher power levels to drive them effectively, running a speaker that is somewhat efficient in a free air setup may be the reason you had OK results, is the sub you purchased specifically designed to operate in a free air enclosure? Do you have the model number/specs for the exact sub your running? Would be good info to post if you got good results from it. Sorry for all the questions but it could definitely help out the guy looking to go this route.

I think the woofer has been replaced by something else in there line up. Kicker Comp 10c4

Features and Specs
Size 10 -inch
Impedance 4 ohms
Cone Material Injected Polypropylene
Surround Material Ribbed Foam
Ideal Sealed Box Volume (cubic feet) N/A
Ideal Ported Box Volume (cubic feet) N/A
Port diameter (inches) N/A
Port length (inches) N/A
Free-Air Yes
Dual Voice Coil No
Sensitivity 86.2 dB at 1 watt
Frequency Response 30 - 500 Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 50-150
Peak Power Handling (Watts) 300
Top Mount Depth (inches) 5
Bottom Mount Depth (inches) N/A
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 9 1/8
Vas (liters) 46.94
Fs (Hz) 33
Qts 0.585
Xmax (millimeters) 9.6
Parts Warranty 1 Year
Labor Warranty 1 Year

[gendry]

With the understanding that anyone who wants to "do it right" and get the best performance improvement needs to change the amp driving the sub, can knowledgeable folks chime in here for the best recommendations of "drop in" subs that will be an improvement while being powered under the factory amp.

I would like a little more bass, especially from the lower frequencies, but do not need a really booming system. I am hoping to just swap the sub (knowing this isn't ideal and I can't expect a huge improvement with stock amp) and take it from there. Would appreciate any suggestions of a good speaker to use given the seemingly limited available power.

The kicker comp 10c4 is a starting place...

[integroid]

With the understanding that anyone who wants to "do it right" and get the best performance improvement needs to change the amp driving the sub, can knowledgeable folks chime in here for the best recommendations of "drop in" subs that will be an improvement while being powered under the factory amp.

I would like a little more bass, especially from the lower frequencies, but do not need a really booming system. I am hoping to just swap the sub (knowing this isn't ideal and I can't expect a huge improvement with stock amp) and take it from there. Would appreciate any suggestions of a good speaker to use given the seemingly limited available power.

The kicker comp 10c4 is a starting place...

There was another thread on here that had a different sub listed as well. Might have been an Image Dynamics sub? I know there is also a JL sub that I looked at that would fit the bill as well. I settled on the kicker sub because I got it for $50 on sale at Fry's. I figured if it sounded like poop the most I would be out was $50.

[gendry]

Thanks integroid. I am probably guilty of failing to fully utilize the search button... but I recall past threads that provided a detailed DIY with replacing the AMP which (1) is more than I want to do for starters and (2) wasn't thought to be applicable to the facelift B8.5 models.

[MVR 155]

Thanks integroid. I am probably guilty of failing to fully utilize the search button... but I recall past threads that provided a detailed DIY with replacing the AMP which (1) is more than I want to do for starters and (2) wasn't thought to be applicable to the facelift B8.5 models.

If you plan to move forward and not add any additional/aftermarket amplifier then I would suggest finding an efficient speaker that is able to be used in a free air set up. Keep in mind that adding an amplifier to a B8/B8.5 or just about any other car are virtually the same. I found that adding the amp/sub to my 2013/B8.5 was one of the easiest cars yet. I have additional subs/amps in all of my current vehicles and have had them in countless past vehicles. Honestly if you can take the rear package tray/deck apart, remove the current sub and replace it with a new one Im sure you could handle the additional work of installing the amp. If you have the tools, basic automotive repair knowledge, take your time and ask questions as needed I think you can do it. Like George McFly says: "If you put your mind to it you can accomplish anything" LOL!!!

[gendry]

Fair enough... especially because technically I have a degree in EE ;)

Okay your pep talk is motivating me. Can you share which components you used in your swap? Did you do essentially the same thing as the OP?

[integroid]

If you plan to move forward and not add any additional/aftermarket amplifier then I would suggest finding an efficient speaker that is able to be used in a free air set up. Keep in mind that adding an amplifier to a B8/B8.5 or just about any other car are virtually the same. I found that adding the amp/sub to my 2013/B8.5 was one of the easiest cars yet. I have additional subs/amps in all of my current vehicles and have had them in countless past vehicles. Honestly if you can take the rear package tray/deck apart, remove the current sub and replace it with a new one Im sure you could handle the additional work of installing the amp. If you have the tools, basic automotive repair knowledge, take your time and ask questions as needed I think you can do it. Like George McFly says: "If you put your mind to it you can accomplish anything" LOL!!!


I agree....everything you need is in the trunk and dont really have to run any wires. I think it took me less than an hour but I did use to install car stereos growing up and help pay my way through college.

[MVR 155]

Fair enough... especially because technically I have a degree in EE ;)

Okay your pep talk is motivating me. Can you share which components you used in your swap? Did you do essentially the same thing as the OP?

Im using some different things with the only major difference being the sub/amp itself, the other items like the wire kit/fuse holder and LOC are perfectly good to use. There is also nothing wrong with the sub/amp the OP elected for either. I wanted a larger sub (12") in a sealed enclosure and a more powerful amp. And its not because I needed to make a ton of noise. Getting sound into the cabin from the trunk when you have a well built car with leather seats/sound deadening etc..... is going to take some extra oomph/power. I wanted a sub that could hit low frequency and still be extra tight all while occupying only a small amount of space. If you go up to post #47 you will see a detailed description of my components. Im in no way saying this is the best setup or what has to be used, it just got me exactly what I was looking for. I think I mentioned it in one of my other posts but make sure to remove the stock B&O sub/enclosure as this creates a pass through for the sound to get into the cabin much better.

[diegom305]

I am going to have to disagree with the two of you. I replaced my factory sub with a Kicker 10" sub in the factory location and ran it on the stock amp for a few weeks before my amp came in. It sounded much better than the stock sub. In fairness, I did have a few layers of sound deadening and a 4 ohm sub (OMGWTFBBQ) and no harm was done to the factory amp. For someone that wants a little more low end bass I think it is a perfect mod. I am in the process of trying to figure out a way to get a sealed enclosure as the free air sub with an aftermarket amp is just too boomy and not very crisp.. Do you recommend me a single 4ohm or dual 4 connected in series to make it 8 ohm. . ? I am not going to add an amp. Just want better result for just swapping the sub

[dizzlesizzle]

I still think your better off just getting a separate amp and sub with small enclosure. All the connections you need are right in the trunk not much wiring to do. You will probably spend more time removing the rear deck, removing the factory sub and layering sound deadening and finding a sub to fit perfectly without modification. My buddy tried this, depending on the speaker you put into the factory sub opening and how powerful it is, regardless of amp, the rear metal deck which holds the sub will flex and make a bunch of noise. Just my opinion.

Here is a link showing the flex.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5RnNgQS2IXo

[diegom305]

I need the space in my trunk... Enclosure is not an option for me I think that flex is powered by an amp. I just want a bit of a better kick. What I haven't figured is what is safest and will be better for the sound and the car.... Go with single 4 ohm even though our car amp is 8ohm or get a dual coil 4 ohm and connect it in series to make the sub a 8ohm sub

[diegom305]

I need the space in my trunk... Enclosure is not an option for me I think that flex is powered by an amp. I just want a bit of a better kick. What I haven't figured is what is safest and will be better for the sound and the car.... Go with single 4 ohm even though our car amp is 8ohm or get a dual coil 4 ohm and connect it in series to make the sub a 8ohm sub


Bringing the thread back to life. i did the sub and amp installation. i used the blue yellow and white yellow to get the signal that comes into my amp. got a monoblock with lpf and is active just in case.

HEre is the amp http://www.bossaudio.com/auto/car-audio-sound-system-auto-monoblock-amplifier-boss-audio-r1100m/

Big question here is the input sensitivity.
http://www.bossaudio.com/wp-content/themes/bossaudio/includes/thumb.php?src=http://images.bossaudio.com/photos/R1100M_RIGHT.JPG&h=280&zc=2

i have 2 options 100mV-2V or 2-4V what should i select to match the factory HU?

ANy one here had the same issue? or can you take a look into your amp and let me know what should i choose?


PS: if anyone used a different selection of cables to tap and get the input signal to the amp let me know.

[mike.powers]

Hmm - didn't think of it like that - I'm not an electrical engineer. Maybe someone who is can chime in...? I went back and looked at the pics to see if I could see any boxes. I do remember seeing more than one wire coming off the positive battery post. So, there are definitely some items that are not put through that box if there is one on my car.

Electrical Engineer here. I can tell you that your friend was correct about Audi having circuitry to measure the current draw on the battery, but wrong about where you should connect. There is a shunt between the ground of the battery and the wire that connects to the frame of the car that has an ammeter attached. If you connect directly to the battery post then the system cannot monitor the draw. So the standard configuration of grounding to the frame is the right way to do it to allow the system to measure the extra current draw properly.

[jayts]

Electrical Engineer here. I can tell you that your friend was correct about Audi having circuitry to measure the current draw on the battery, but wrong about where you should connect. There is a shunt between the ground of the battery and the wire that connects to the frame of the car that has an ammeter attached. If you connect directly to the battery post then the system cannot monitor the draw. So the standard configuration of grounding to the frame is the right way to do it to allow the system to measure the extra current draw properly.

Good timing Im about to do a full system install and was going to go directly to the battery with positive and negative, so instead I hook the negative up after the shunt or directly to the frame where the battery negative attaches I assume

[phanker]

Any thoughts on the Pioneer-TS-SWX251?
Looking for something really small. Thanks.

[jazza08]

I've put sound deadening in my car and I am quite happy with the bass levels but I am interested to know has anyone simply replaced the factory amp with a better one keeping everything else the same?
I think the car could use a little extra volume providing I don't go over the RMS of the speakers (which I don't know if they're already maxed out?).

[Dirty Jersey]

This thread was very helpful upgrading my sub.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/MatchStickRed/Mobile%20Uploads/20140713_095355.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/MatchStickRed/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140713_095355.jpg.html)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/MatchStickRed/Mobile%20Uploads/20140713_110526.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/MatchStickRed/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140713_110526.jpg.html)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/MatchStickRed/Mobile%20Uploads/8ae7d473-7965-4317-b302-063f7f3978a9.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/MatchStickRed/media/Mobile%20Uploads/8ae7d473-7965-4317-b302-063f7f3978a9.jpg.html)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/MatchStickRed/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2516.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/MatchStickRed/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2516.jpg.html)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/MatchStickRed/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2513.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/MatchStickRed/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2513.jpg.html)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/MatchStickRed/Mobile%20Uploads/FB_IMG_1406170953784.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/MatchStickRed/media/Mobile%20Uploads/FB_IMG_1406170953784.jpg.html)

[jayts]

This thread was very helpful upgrading my sub.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/MatchStickRed/Mobile%20Uploads/20140713_095355.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/MatchStickRed/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140713_095355.jpg.html)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/MatchStickRed/Mobile%20Uploads/20140713_110526.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/MatchStickRed/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140713_110526.jpg.html)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/MatchStickRed/Mobile%20Uploads/8ae7d473-7965-4317-b302-063f7f3978a9.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/MatchStickRed/media/Mobile%20Uploads/8ae7d473-7965-4317-b302-063f7f3978a9.jpg.html)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/MatchStickRed/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2516.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/MatchStickRed/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2516.jpg.html)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/MatchStickRed/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2513.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/MatchStickRed/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2513.jpg.html)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/MatchStickRed/Mobile%20Uploads/FB_IMG_1406170953784.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/MatchStickRed/media/Mobile%20Uploads/FB_IMG_1406170953784.jpg.html)

Nice install, where you ground the amps?

[UmbroVR6]

whats the story with that enclosure? custom made? or stealth box? that install looks sick.

[doug97gxe]

I won't requote the pictures but...

- did you have to relocate the BO Unit for that enclosure?
- where did you patch into the factory system? the BO wires? or directly into the existing sub wires
- where did you get the enclosure

[MVR 155]

I won't requote the pictures but...

- did you have to relocate the BO Unit for that enclosure?
- where did you patch into the factory system? the BO wires? or directly into the existing sub wires
- where did you get the enclosure

Not my system but I can see that he relocated the factory amp as well as the new amp to the bottom of the package tray. Using a LOC (line out converter) you can tap the wires into the factory subwoofer and that box looks to definitely be a custom made enclosure. Only thing I would suggest to Dirty Jersey is to remove the factory B&O sub itself...... it will sound much better as the new sub will cause the B&O sub (if it's still hooked up) to be inaccurate along with not allowing for the air of the new sub to pass into the cabin of the car. I initially tried to use my new sub with the B&O hooked up, without it hooked up and completely removed....... completely removed made a world of difference.

[doug97gxe]

Not my system but I can see that he relocated the factory amp as well as the new amp to the bottom of the package tray. Using a LOC (line out converter) you can tap the wires into the factory subwoofer and that box looks to definitely be a custom made enclosure. Only thing I would suggest to Dirty Jersey is to remove the factory B&O sub itself...... it will sound much better as the new sub will cause the B&O sub (if it's still hooked up) to be inaccurate along with not allowing for the air of the new sub to pass into the cabin of the car. I initially tried to use my new sub with the B&O hooked up, without it hooked up and completely removed....... completely removed made a world of difference.

ok thanks... i just bought an ID Max 10 and getting ready to head to my installer

[mr shickadance]

Not my system but I can see that he relocated the factory amp as well as the new amp to the bottom of the package tray. Using a LOC (line out converter) you can tap the wires into the factory subwoofer and that box looks to definitely be a custom made enclosure. Only thing I would suggest to Dirty Jersey is to remove the factory B&O sub itself...... it will sound much better as the new sub will cause the B&O sub (if it's still hooked up) to be inaccurate along with not allowing for the air of the new sub to pass into the cabin of the car. I initially tried to use my new sub with the B&O hooked up, without it hooked up and completely removed....... completely removed made a world of difference.

the JL Amp he is running has a built-in LO converter that would work well enough to be used.

everything else you said is spot on.

your installer has to the tools and knowledge to figure out if the line going into the BO amp is high or low and can go from there also.

[MVR 155]

the JL Amp he is running has a built-in LO converter that would work well enough to be used.

everything else you said is spot on.

your installer has to the tools and knowledge to figure out if the line going into the BO amp is high or low and can go from there also.

I know that some amps have the built in LOC...... wasn't sure if that one did so I mentioned the LOC to the guy making the inquiry.

[QuattroRocket]

Now all we need is a source for that enclosure !!!

[mr shickadance]

that enclosure is a custom fiberglass one, any local car audio place that doesn't rhyme with est-buy will be able to do it. Expect to pay about 4-5 for it

[doug97gxe]

no its not fiberglass .. its mdf

[mr shickadance]

true, your right, didn;t look at the pictures close enough hah

[Hatchman]

Any one have the dimensions for the amp? Looking for one that will just "snap in" to the space below the B&O amp.

Thanks for the help!

[DatBigDude]

Will be using this when i decide to tackle audio, thanks for the writeup!

[Pawan2013]

Qts for someone who is not into this kind of stuff is completely greek. You will need a sub with adequate free air capability. What he told you is correct in terms of just adding a sub with no amp..... it will likely sound worse as the factory B&O amp is not going to drive an aftermarket subwoofer...... This is the biggest mistake that amateurs attempting to upgrade audio make. If you don't want to mess with wiring take your car to a trusted shop and have them do the install. If you have basic automotive/wiring knowledge putting a sub into one of these cars is a breeze. There are plenty of step by step write ups to effectively do this on your own providing you possess the basic knowledge. Not trying to give you a hard time but being truthful is going to save you time, headaches and $$$$$

I can tell you that adding a sub and amp to the factory B&O will completely transform the sound system in this car. If you honestly want the best sound then I would suggest removing the sub from the rear package tray/panel all together, the rear panel lacks the integrity and is known to fluctuate badly in these cars. Free air setups typically lack the accuracy of a sealed enclosure. A sealed enclosure in the trunk will yield the best sound and with all of the small enclosure subs currently available you don't have to sacrifice hardly anything in the way of trunk space. Removal of the B&O enclosure makes a great "pass through" into the car so the new sub in the trunk can do it's work. Grabbing the signal for the amp (that will power the sub) is very easily accessed at the plug from the factory B&O sub. The battery is in the trunk so there are no wires to run through the cabin/firewall/under hood. Im running an Alpine SWE-12S4 (12" 4ohm sub with a 250W RMS rating) in a ATrend B Box Pro that has a volume of .88 cubic feet. The sub is rated for a .65-1.0 cubic foot box so this is a great match. Powering the sub is a Kicker 500.1 mono amp which has a 275w RMS rating at 4ohms.... this is slightly over what the sub is rated at RMS but I have the gain down pretty low along with a remote knob in the cabin which I do not go full tilt with. This set up sounds absolutely amazing. Best of all the price for everything was under $400. I already had the LOC, wiring kit/fuse block and RCA's so figure up to another $100 for that stuff..... still has you under $500 for everything. A shop should not charge you more than a couple of hundred to do this type of install so even then your not looking at much coin for the whole thing out the door. I purchased my stuff at a local shop www.abt.com (they are a huge electronics/high end audio store).

Sorry for posting on an old thread but I am looking to do this now also. My question is what if the frequency range of the stock sub because if you tap into its signal then I assume that will also be the frequency range of your aftermarket sub. I am afraid that its range does not go very low to get those really low bass notes that I love. Does your setup hit the low notes hard? Thank you.

[mr shickadance]

Sorry for posting on an old thread but I am looking to do this now also. My question is what if the frequency range of the stock sub because if you tap into its signal then I assume that will also be the frequency range of your aftermarket sub. I am afraid that its range does not go very low to get those really low bass notes that I love. Does your setup hit the low notes hard? Thank you.

then just tap the right and left rear speaker for the full spectrum and use the amp's cut-off to tune it down.

The B+O amp int eh back powers all the speakers, not just the sub, so it's just a matter of tapping different wires.

[Pawan2013]

then just tap the right and left rear speaker for the full spectrum and use the amp's cut-off to tune it down.

The B+O amp int eh back powers all the speakers, not just the sub, so it's just a matter of tapping different wires.

The left and right speakers aren't filtered? I would think that they are cut off much higher then the sub would be

[Mr. Spectacular]

I've just got the signal from the Sub wires and am happy with frequency reproduction. Unless you're hyper-audiophilic, that should be plenty. I also have an Audio Control LC2i to assist with bass reproduction past the roll-off point but other than that pretty good. Haven't been able to compare with a setup tapping left and right speakers for the signal though.

[mr shickadance]

The left and right speakers aren't filtered? I would think that they are cut off much higher then the sub would be

they could be, I am not positive, I know if you need to tap a high powered wire and use a LOC to get it into an RCA cable that you typically tap the rear L and R speakers to do so giving you the full spectrum.

I wouldn't imagine the stock AMP is so advanced that it's filtered, but it could be.

I mean the proper way to do it would be to run something similar to a JL Audio Clean Sweep and pull from the stereo outputs from the MMI to begin with. But now you are tlaking about adding a step that could cost more than the sub and amp put together.

If you were seriously considering upping your audio quality, this would be a no brainer, but for people looking to improve the stock sub with something a bit more powerful, than tapping the stock sub leads is just fine.

[jackp311]

Sorry for posting on an old thread but I am looking to do this now also. My question is what if the frequency range of the stock sub because if you tap into its signal then I assume that will also be the frequency range of your aftermarket sub. I am afraid that its range does not go very low to get those really low bass notes that I love. Does your setup hit the low notes hard? Thank you.

No worries. I tapped the factory sub signal for this. No issues with playing low. I have several tracks I use for testing. Some are pure tones. I noticed a pretty flat response down to sub 30hz - the natural gain of the cabin helps as well. Don't let that be a reason to find a workaround, it works perfectly fine. Some folks tap the rear door speakers, that I advise against. If doing that, at least grab the front as they are 8". But either way, I tap at the amp side (who wouldn't) so it's just a matter of grabbing the right wires. So why not grab the sub ones?

[Pawan2013]

No worries. I tapped the factory sub signal for this. No issues with playing low. I have several tracks I use for testing. Some are pure tones. I noticed a pretty flat response down to sub 30hz - the natural gain of the cabin helps as well. Don't let that be a reason to find a workaround, it works perfectly fine. Some folks tap the rear door speakers, that I advise against. If doing that, at least grab the front as they are 8". But either way, I tap at the amp side (who wouldn't) so it's just a matter of grabbing the right wires. So why not grab the sub ones?

Thanks for the reply, so just to make sure, you grabbed the wires coming out of the amp going to the sub, not any wires before entering the amp, correct?

[mr shickadance]

Thanks for the reply, so just to make sure, you grabbed the wires coming out of the amp going to the sub, not any wires before entering the amp, correct?

if you plan on using the high-current wires, yes, pull the ones going from amp to sub.

[jackp311]

That's the only wires you'll be able to use. The amp takes fiber optic in. No tapping of that.

[Pawan2013]

Alright, I think I got this figured out. Thanks for the help everyone!

[SteveYem]

I am using an LC2i line-out converter between the B&O amp and my aftermarket subwoofer amp. The LC2i is wired as such:

* Remote In from switched 12V supply
* Constant +12V from battery
* Grounded to chassis
* Remote Out to aftermarket amp Remote In
* Stock subwoofer wires to Left (+) (-) input of LC2i

The issue is, when I turn off the car but have not opened the door yet, the stereo is still playing but the subwoofer does not fire. I suppose it is due to the LC2i getting switched 12v power for its remote input. The reason I am using switched 12V is that I was unable to make the LC2i work using line-level signal as the remote turn on. I even asked AudioControl tech support if it was due to using only the Left (+) (-) inputs and not both Left and Right, but they said that's not the case because the unit gets its line level remote signal from the Left channel input.

Can anyone suggest a way that I can connect this so that the subwoofer keeps firing when the stereo is running but the car is turned off?

[14S4GWM]

Did they give you an explanation as to why it's not working at all for the signal switch? Did you make sure it was switched on inside the unit.?

The only thing I can think of is to run an unswitched line to it but that's not what you want to do. I'm sure shickadance will have something to say.

[SteveYem]

Did they give you an explanation as to why it's not working at all for the signal switch? Did you make sure it was switched on inside the unit.?

The only thing I can think of is to run an unswitched line to it but that's not what you want to do. I'm sure shickadance will have something to say.

The line level remote turn-on feature (GTO in AudioControl speak) is set from the factory to be enabled. There isn't a switch, but rather a little jumper plug in the side of the unit that can be moved from the 'Enable' to 'Bypass' position. I tried doing that yesterday but when I put it in Bypass mode it didn't seem to do the trick. I will try that again today, though.

EDIT: While I'm in here asking questions......The first challenge was installing everything which I have completed, save for my remote turn-on question above. Now it's time to tune this thing. As it stands now, kick drum sounds OK but any time there are extended bass notes or a moving series of bass notes, it just sounds boomy/muddy/bad. Is there a tuning-for-dummies guide that might go over the following items:

* Where to set the AccuBass, Main and Bass level knobs on the LC2i
* What frequency to set the crossover on my amp
* Where to set the gain on my amp versus the gain levels on the LC2i

Keep in mind I am running an 8" sub as I'm sure that makes a difference for tuning.

[mr shickadance]

crutchfield has a great write up on how to tune your amp for your sub.

[SteveYem]

crutchfield has a great write up on how to tune your amp for your sub.

Thanks, I will do some reading this weekend.

Meantime I have another issue: for whatever reason, my LC2i does not power on from the line level input coming off the stock amp, so I had to run my +12V remote input from switched +12v fuse panel up in the front driver side of the cabin. The amp that powers the sub receives its +12V remote signal from the LC2i. I noticed that when I turn the car off (i.e. shut down the engine via the ignition button) the stereo keeps playing as usual, but the LC2i and amp turn off. I then tried moving the jumper from the GTO position to the Bypass position on the LC2i and it behaved the same way.

Is there a way around this or is it the nature of the beast due to getting its +12V remote signal from a switched source?

[Mr. Spectacular]

@steve. That's the nature of the beast. You don't want that draw on the battery anyways without the alternator running. How often do you anticipate being in the car ignition off bumping your tunes?

Also, for future reference of others, getting switched power can be done from the back fuse panel in the B8's, but it seems easiest to pull switched from the front fuse box in the B8.5's since they don't have a switched row in the back trunk.

[emoji106]🏼


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mr shickadance]

Thanks, I will do some reading this weekend.

Meantime I have another issue: for whatever reason, my LC2i does not power on from the line level input coming off the stock amp, so I had to run my +12V remote input from switched +12v fuse panel up in the front driver side of the cabin. The amp that powers the sub receives its +12V remote signal from the LC2i. I noticed that when I turn the car off (i.e. shut down the engine via the ignition button) the stereo keeps playing as usual, but the LC2i and amp turn off. I then tried moving the jumper from the GTO position to the Bypass position on the LC2i and it behaved the same way.

Is there a way around this or is it the nature of the beast due to getting its +12V remote signal from a switched source?


The reason is because your speaker line level input is not going to trigger that, you want something that will deliver a 12v signal on turn on. Common is is to tap the cigarette lighter for a amp turn on lead, as they shut off when the car shuts off.

[doug97gxe]

anybody saw this http://www.ceoutlook.com/2015/10/27/jl-audio-ships-its-first-new-processor-in-ten-years/

as a JL Audio hater i'm really considering this.. i wonder how much cleaner it will be

[zcspec]

I attempted this project with no success. The 2015 allroad does not have a row of red 12+ switched sources. Even Best Buy recommended for me to grab the switched source from the cigarette lighter from the front. I'm not about to tear up my car just for that. Anyone try anything different?

[Drunktank]

I think the red row went away with the B8.5. Either way, just run a small wire from up front on the very left side dash fuse door, under the door sills to the back. It will take you 10 minutes and you don't have to remove anything.

[SteveYem]

I think the red row went away with the B8.5. Either way, just run a small wire from up front on the very left side dash fuse door, under the door sills to the back. It will take you 10 minutes and you don't have to remove anything.

I did this. I found it to be a bit of a pain in the ass and took me longer than 10 minutes, but it was much better than tearing apart any of the interior to tap the cigarette lighter. I bought a Tap-a-Fuse which plugged right into an empty slot in the switched +12V bank.

[doug97gxe]

I attempted this project with no success. The 2015 allroad does not have a row of red 12+ switched sources. Even Best Buy recommended for me to grab the switched source from the cigarette lighter from the front. I'm not about to tear up my car just for that. Anyone try anything different?

relay .. been using it since Sept now no problems


Finally got my ID Max in.. The directions for the turn on lead was for a B8.. There is no red row for the B8.5 all the rows in the truck were live .. Ended up tapping a relay

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/08/75d16cd555d964aa760d7703f8fd9400.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/08/969bf339a310de4c77a4a89c5a5d88aa.jpg

I first fired her up I had my amp on 5 from my prior car wow the bass blew me away .. Currently running it at 3 and I turned the bass down in the mmi to 1/4

However im still tuning.. Also have some 175 amp quick disconnects to install since I have kids and will need the trunk free at times

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/08/aeac1c6829b3d64b3cd138d836b5525b.jpg


Sent from my iPhone8s using Tapatalk

[zcspec]

Just a quick update to my remote source dilemma. The solution to my issue was literally right underneath my nose. In the process of removing the side panels in the trunk, I disconnected a 12+ power plug and completely forgot it was there. I'm not sure if the A4/S4 have it, but the alloard has this power source plug in the back. It supply's 12+ when on, and turns off with the ignition. [up] The installer from Best Buy and I completely disregarded the connector as I told him it didn't plug into anything. Well, I tested the plug, problem solved![:D] Now I need to decide if I want an "all in one" or do I want to go with a separate amp and sub. I just want the low end filled; not trying to shake the fillings from my daughters teethes when they sit in the back.

[doug97gxe]

Just a quick update to my remote source dilemma. The solution to my issue was literally right underneath my nose. In the process of removing the side panels in the trunk, I disconnected a 12+ power plug and completely forgot it was there. I'm not sure if the A4/S4 have it, but the alloard has this power source plug in the back. It supply's 12+ when on, and turns off with the ignition. [up] The installer from Best Buy and I completely disregarded the connector as I told him it didn't plug into anything. Well, I tested the plug, problem solved![:D] Now I need to decide if I want an "all in one" or do I want to go with a separate amp and sub. I just want the low end filled; not trying to shake the fillings from my daughters teethes when they sit in the back.

Pic of source?

[zcspec]

Pic of source?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/27064922/Images/alloard/12v%2B.jpg

[jason bouchard]

So I have a 2014 S5 Coupe (b8.5) with the Bang and Olf system. I located the Blue and yellow and the White and Yellow wires and was just about to splice into them until I saw this post, my questions are:*

- So for the newer B8.5 models its the Blue and Brown and Blue and Red wires or the Blue and yellow and the White and Yellow wires ??

- also is the blue/brown the Neg and the Blue/Red the positive?

- Any drawbacks with keeping the stock sub connected and just tapping the wires for my amp/ and LC2?

- And lastly, has anyone found any wire that is a remote or turn key powered 12v+ line for the converter and amp remote wires?
( I see the pic of that relay above, which pin of the relay works and that is a switched power source?)

Also, which 12v+ did you guys use for your 2Ci line out unit? would it be okay using a switched power line for that and maybe just use the remote line connection? I did everything tonight except for the 2Ci box connection and the remote wire. everything else is ran connected etc.*

Thanks guys and Happy Easter

[Fresh.S4]

I have the BO amp from the trunk if anyone needs. Pm me

[jason bouchard]

So I got everything working, used the pin from the relay so the amp shuts off with key off. and I used the red and blue and brown and light blue twisted pair of wires, everything is installed. but I have some questions:

with the 2ci line out converter, I have the two speaker wires from the stock B&O and lengthen them and connect them to the 2Ci do I bridge them using the + of the left side and the - of the right side? or do I just use one side?

The reason I ask is because it doesn't really sound all that good, I am using a 10inch sub and 400 watt amp which I have in my TT, and which sounded great in that vehicle.

Thanks

[mys4.org]

So I got everything working, used the pin from the relay so the amp shuts off with key off. and I used the red and blue and brown and light blue twisted pair of wires, everything is installed. but I have some questions:

with the 2ci line out converter, I have the two speaker wires from the stock B&O and lengthen them and connect them to the 2Ci do I bridge them using the + of the left side and the - of the right side? or do I just use one side?

The reason I ask is because it doesn't really sound all that good, I am using a 10inch sub and 400 watt amp which I have in my TT, and which sounded great in that vehicle.

Thanks

When I was running the LC2i I tried all combination of wiring the channels and ran into the same issue... it just doesn't sound that great. I've said it before and I'll say it about but I'm not a fan of the LC2i. I went with an amp with a built in line out convertor and it sounded better. It still doesn't sound as good as a dedicated sub out line from an aftermarket head unit. The problem is the factory amp is screwing with the sub signal with odd frequency cut-offs... Not a lot we can do

[jason bouchard]

damn that sucks, any way to turn off the "cut-off" my amp has some low level input connections but I lost the little connector with pin-outs ( its an old kenwood)

[primaryw]

Question for the B&O owners.

Is there an actual bass roll-off from the B&O amp?

Just had a line level converter installed and I'm feeling like there is missing bass. I didn't go with the LC2i and am thinking that was a mistake. But it's a correctable mistake, ya!