brake lining light

[Jay B7]

light came on and so i had my rotors and pads replaced in the front and rear. The light never went off. Is this something I have to reset after getting the pads done or is there and issue with the pad sensor?

[chrislane31]

The wire for the pad sensor is probably cut

[bman005]

The wire for the pad sensor is probably cut

X2

[ColumbusAudiA4]

Mine did the same the wire was broke. on the pad. What you can do is just create a loop so the sensor doesn't show a break in the circuit. Just do a search on here for bypass brake light sensor or something like that you will find easy fix. Takes like 10 minutes.

[mat68046]

Same issue, had bypass plugs installed but light was always on. Removed the plugs and reconnected to known good pads and the light went off...until the next day. Now it stays off for roughly a half hour of driving and then comes back on, resetting on restart. Really want to code this out if possible, as tracing the wiring may prove a bit much for me to handle.

Suggestions?

[Theiceman]

Same issue, had bypass plugs installed but light was always on. Removed the plugs and reconnected to known good pads and the light went off...until the next day. Now it stays off for roughly a half hour of driving and then comes back on, resetting on restart. Really want to code this out if possible, as tracing the wiring may prove a bit much for me to handle.

Suggestions?

wiring harness issue .. no need to " code it out" just go fix the problem. there are literally millions of cars with this system on the road . It works well.

[mat68046]

wiring harness issue .. no need to " code it out" just go fix the problem. there are literally millions of cars with this system on the road . It works well.

Thanks, Iceman. Kinda grasp of the obvious, just buying time to when I can do the harness tracing. I'm sure it can be done in the group 17 coding.

[80sGuy]

Don't you guys buy front pads with the sensor wires built-in??? My new front pads always come with wires attached. Easy problem solved!

[mat68046]

Uh, yeah, I have pad sensor wiring but some others don't so your comment isn't addressing the problem which is a break in the circuit somewhere else causing the fault. Since I don't live under my car I wanted to buy time to diagnose further by clearing the light for now. We already live with constant CEL on....

[EvolutionArmory]

You could spend the same time doing the repair right as you could spend half assing it.

It’s probably just a bad connector clip/pin contact that just needs to be cut out, reconnectored and spliced in.

[Theiceman]

Thanks, Iceman. Kinda grasp of the obvious, just buying time to when I can do the harness tracing. I'm sure it can be done in the group 17 coding.

sometimes Captain obvious is needed when trying to code out a safety feature.. :)

[mat68046]

You could spend the same time doing the repair right as you could spend half assing it.

It’s probably just a bad connector clip/pin contact that just needs to be cut out, reconnectored and spliced in.

Wow. Glad I asked for a little help. This was also about learning more about Vag-Com as well as diagnosing probable fault in the sensor wiring. Of course I checked the connectors, tried the bypasses, etc....SO now I'm seeking advice from the forum where I'm sure others have run into the same issue.
So thanks for your second comment, that could actually help but your first comment doesn't do me any good. AND your're in NH...! What's up with that?

[EvolutionArmory]

That’s where I live? Lol!!

I’m in Derry bud.

If you’ve replaced the pads and the pad warning is still on you probably have a short in the wires, most likely close to the brakes since that section of wire sees the most weather and punishment. Cut the wire wrap up as far as you can and splice in a new connector and wires. If that doesn’t solve it, the issue with the wires is further in the car or maybe with the ABS module or cluster. And it’s entirely possible that the sensor in the pad is faulty.

If you really want to disable them go into 17 Instrument cluster, click on coding and see if the drop down menu says enable/disable pad warning. Change your coding to whatever it says. It might say something like add 1 or subtract 1 to the coding.

[80sGuy]

Uh, yeah, I have pad sensor wiring but some others don't so your comment isn't addressing the problem which is a break in the circuit somewhere else causing the fault. Since I don't live under my car I wanted to buy time to diagnose further by clearing the light for now. We already live with constant CEL on....

Some others don't? I wondered why, is that they either bought their pads w/o sensor wires KNOWING WE HAVE SENSOR CONNECTIONS, or bought aftermarket items that did not fit well, and/or whomever worked on their brakes just simply CUT the wires and install the new pad w/o wires. New pad comes with wires so cut the fock away! What I'm trying to say (or help) here is buy the correct parts so you don't run into this kind of problem(s). If so, the wires just don't simply cut themselves short unless they don't fit correctly or being jammed with negligence during installation. Tip: when the warning light triggers make sure to also check your brake fluid level, not just the pads.

[mat68046]

Some others don't? I wondered why, is that they either bought their pads w/o sensor wires KNOWING WE HAVE SENSOR CONNECTIONS, or bought aftermarket items that did not fit well, and/or whomever worked on their brakes just simply CUT the wires and install the new pad w/o wires. New pad comes with wires so cut the fock away! What I'm trying to say (or help) here is buy the correct parts so you don't run into this kind of problem(s). If so, the wires just don't simply cut themselves short unless they don't fit correctly or being jammed with negligence during installation. Tip: when the warning light triggers make sure to also check your brake fluid level, not just the pads.

Your points are valid about aftermarket parts and installation faux-pa issues, yes-helpful.
My car had oem-style wired pads but still had bypass plug-ins installed ( wasn't a hack job) but because there's a wiring issue somewhere up the line and the warning indicator persists.
I'll just go fix the problem now though I do not have the time and its frickin pouring, ha ha.

[Theiceman]

Your points are valid about aftermarket parts and installation faux-pa issues, yes-helpful.
My car had oem-style wired pads but still had bypass plug-ins installed ( wasn't a hack job) but because there's a wiring issue somewhere up the line and the warning indicator persists.
I'll just go fix the problem now though I do not have the time and its frickin pouring, ha ha.Could it be sensing brake fluid low ?

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[mat68046]

Could it be sensing brake fluid low ?

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I wish it were that simple. That's the first thing I checked.
Doesn't mean the fluid sensor isn't buggy, though.

[EvolutionArmory]

The brake fluid level warning and the pads warning are 2 separate warnings.

Pads low is the Tie Fighter symbol. Brake fluid low usually triggers a big “BRAKES” on the display.

[mat68046]

The brake fluid level warning and the pads warning are 2 separate warnings.

Pads low is the Tie Fighter symbol. Brake fluid low usually triggers a big “BRAKES” on the display.

Ah, thanks for the clarification. TIE Fighter it is....I'll have to ohm out the wiring from each side to some furthest point to check for breaks in the circuit. Problem is intermittent, though, so the break may occur only long enough to set the warning then reconnects since the indicator usually resets to off status on restart.

[EvolutionArmory]

That’s why I think your problem is with the connector and cutting it out and splicing in a new pig tail might help.

That’s just a guess though.




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