koni sport/yellow adjustments

[highlandarx]

I did a search and couldn't find anything very conclusive. For those of you on Koni sports/yellows and eibach springs, what damping settings do you have it set too (for a compliant ride that's not too soft)?

Currently I am at:

Front: 1.75 turns from full soft
Rear: 1.5 turns from full soft

The car handles very rigid and controlled (or that could be my RS4 rear sway bar), but the ride is just too harsh on these Jersey roads!

[QuattroTi]

You have them almost all the way stiff, which is 2 full turns.. I adjusted mine 1/4 turn all the way around. Ride is awesome and I couldn't be happier.

[Philthy]

Man, I couldn't figure mine out when I installed them. There seemed to be no stop when I turned them. Any insight either of you could share? I assume I was doing something wrong. I can't remember completely but iirc I depressed them and then tried to turn them either way...I think.

[Mc Suly]

When I had those. I hat it max stiff. rides well

[highlandarx]

You have them almost all the way stiff, which is 2 full turns.. I adjusted mine 1/4 turn all the way around. Ride is awesome and I couldn't be happier.

Was it the same for front and back?

[QuattroTi]

Man, I couldn't figure mine out when I installed them. There seemed to be no stop when I turned them. Any insight either of you could share? I assume I was doing something wrong. I can't remember completely but iirc I depressed them and then tried to turn them either way...I think.

You have to depress the piston all the way in and as you turn you will feel the adjustment nut catch; clockwise=stiffer.

Was it the same for front and back?

yes, i set them all the same. Theres no reason to compensate for weight by setting front and rear differently; im confident that the brilliant engineers at koni designed these around the F/R weight of the vehicle. Correction: 1/2 turn all around (180 degrees) not 1/4 as i stated in my first post.

[Philthy]

Thanks man. Is there any stop or will they just keep rotating?

[QuattroTi]

Thanks man. Is there any stop or will they just keep rotating?
Forgot to subscribe. Yes there is stops at max and min. What i did to make sure i had caught the adjustment nut was i depressed the piston and rotated it ccw to make sure it was at 0. I adjusted .5 (180%) turn cw on all four shocks.

[highlandarx]

Forgot to subscribe. Yes there is stops at max and min. What i did to make sure i had caught the adjustment nut was i depressed the piston and rotated it ccw to make sure it was at 0. I adjusted .5 (180%) turn cw on all four shocks.

Are you also on Eibach Pro-Kit springs? When I take them out and adjust them again, do I have to get an alignment?

[QuattroTi]

Yes I am on eibach pro springs. You shouldn't have to. the setting on the tie rods should stay the same, and the rear subframe does not need to be moved to remove the rear shocks. Just make sure you tighten everything down with suspension loaded.

[highlandarx]

You have to depress the piston all the way in and as you turn you will feel the adjustment nut catch; clockwise=stiffer.


yes, i set them all the same. Theres no reason to compensate for weight by setting front and rear differently; im confident that the brilliant engineers at koni designed these around the F/R weight of the vehicle. Correction: 1/2 turn all around (180 degrees) not 1/4 as i stated in my first post.

Are you sure about this? Other users have the front and rear set differently. I set my shocks according to the recommendations in this post: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/430117-Koni-FSD-vs-Sports-%28yellow%29?highlight=9hooker. The setup is great for performance driving and if the roads are smooth and freshly paved. But the slightest bumps rock the whole car, they're so stiff. Driving in NYC is a nightmare. I'm on 235/40-18 tires, which probably doesn't help either. I'm looking for OEM S-line-like ride quality. Anyone with more experience or knowledge on KONI yellows/Eibach pro-kit springs please chime in.

[highlandarx]

...You shouldn't have to. the setting on the tie rods should stay the same, and the rear subframe does not need to be moved to remove the rear shocks. Just make sure you tighten everything down with suspension loaded.

So...not really.