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View Full Version : Replace your N80's!



joneze93tsi
11-28-2011, 06:39 PM
I know it's been said before, but this should be treated like a maintenance item.

Replaced it (all of 10 minutes) after getting the famous "large evap leak code".

Car hasn't idled this smooth in years. I think it was intermittently opening up outside of the EVAP pump's check cycle.
Gas mileage went back up as well.

Great $15 and 10 minutes spent.

B72.0T
11-28-2011, 07:00 PM
http://newbeetle.org/forums/attachments/2-0-liter-gas/54528d1237995635-evap-purge-valve-n80-valve-purge-valve.jpg

This?

joneze93tsi
11-28-2011, 07:19 PM
Yes

your daddy
11-28-2011, 07:27 PM
and stop topping off your gas tanks..

Paulito
11-29-2011, 03:56 AM
stop topping off? whys that...

papadelogan
11-29-2011, 04:23 AM
I know it's been said before, but this should be treated like a maintenance item.

Replaced it (all of 10 minutes) after getting the famous "large evap leak code".

Car hasn't idled this smooth in years. I think it was intermittently opening up outside of the EVAP pump's check cycle.
Gas mileage went back up as well.

Great $15 and 10 minutes spent.

Where did you find this part for $15?

Tanner
11-29-2011, 05:15 AM
stop topping off? whys that...

Yeah I never understood why people need to top off the tank or keep forcing gas into the tank to get it rounded up to the dollar. Read this thread on the reasons why topping up the tank should not be done.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/413591-DIY-Gas-tank-problems-Evap-Canister-Leak-Detection-pump

srcrash715
11-29-2011, 07:32 AM
Where did you find this part for $15?

This^

Sprode
11-29-2011, 08:11 AM
Yeah I never understood why people need to top off the tank or keep forcing gas into the tank to get it rounded up to the dollar. Read this thread on the reasons why topping up the tank should not be done.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/413591-DIY-Gas-tank-problems-Evap-Canister-Leak-Detection-pump

It was one thing when you are paying with cash. I didn't know people still did this unless free hot dogs were involved.

jimrobbington
11-29-2011, 08:36 AM
Yep. I am a supporter of this mod. Definately helped my power return in my endeavors. People, when the pump clicks off the first time, you are done. Too much fuel in the tank will get soaked up into the charcoal filter and plug up everything. That is why we all experience the gas pump clicking off over and over again. Although, I paid almost $40 for the part at the dealer.

jimrobbington
11-29-2011, 08:38 AM
And just for easy reference, this is where it is:

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo109/jimrobbington/2011-09-19113216.jpg

If you can blow through it, it's bad.

Der Konig
11-29-2011, 08:47 AM
I think I replaced mine with the wrong part number, just not OEM possibly? Close enough though right?
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i174/MuscleOwnzRice/m80.jpg

scottns
11-29-2011, 08:58 AM
This^

$69 at Europarts :(

jimrobbington
11-29-2011, 09:01 AM
$69 at Europarts :(

My dealer was about $40


I think I replaced mine with the wrong part number, just not OEM possibly? Close enough though right?
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i174/MuscleOwnzRice/m80.jpg

Lol, I think that's the pcv part number.

Stewy
11-29-2011, 09:04 AM
Just picked mine up from the dealer, $14.

B72.0T
11-29-2011, 10:12 AM
I already replaced this a while ago.

bman005
11-29-2011, 10:53 AM
They dropped way down in price about year ago. They retail for $15.80 at my dealer

tankdeer
11-29-2011, 11:19 AM
Replaced in my old avant about a year ago. About $16 at the dealer. I think it was around the same at GAP

Hugh@EuropaParts
11-29-2011, 11:24 AM
$69 at Europarts :(
Stop OVER PAYING for your Audi parts! [az]
EuropaParts.com (http://www.europaparts.com/) has it for $13.95! CLICK HERE (http://www.europaparts.com/purge-valve-06e906517a.html) for Purge Valve.

http://media.europaparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/170x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/0/6/06e906517a.jpg (http://www.europaparts.com/purge-valve-06e906517a.html)

scottns
11-29-2011, 11:48 AM
Stop OVER PAYING for your Audi parts! [az]
EuropaParts.com (http://www.europaparts.com/) has it for $13.95! CLICK HERE (http://www.europaparts.com/purge-valve-06e906517a.html) for Purge Valve.

http://media.europaparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/170x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/0/6/06e906517a.jpg (http://www.europaparts.com/purge-valve-06e906517a.html)

Sweet :)

CorneliusRox
11-29-2011, 12:09 PM
Stop OVER PAYING for your Audi parts! [az]
EuropaParts.com (http://www.europaparts.com/) has it for $13.95! CLICK HERE (http://www.europaparts.com/purge-valve-06e906517a.html) for Purge Valve.

http://media.europaparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/170x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/0/6/06e906517a.jpg (http://www.europaparts.com/purge-valve-06e906517a.html)

do you have some H11 fog bulbs that would match my bixenons as well with this order? :-)

Hugh@EuropaParts
11-29-2011, 12:47 PM
do you have some H11 fog bulbs that would match my bixenons as well with this order? :-)

Unfortunately I don't Corey.
Get Yellow fogs FTMFW!!!!!!

soleam87
11-29-2011, 01:10 PM
And just for easy reference, this is where it is:

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo109/jimrobbington/2011-09-19113216.jpg

If you can blow through it, it's bad.

Thats what she said.

Hugh@EuropaParts
11-29-2011, 01:14 PM
Thats what she said.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff32/evildrew81/scary%20stuff/Joker.gif

CorneliusRox
11-29-2011, 01:32 PM
Hugh! letting me down! ha ha idk if I want yellow yet. maybe I'll sleep on it a few nights

joneze93tsi
11-29-2011, 03:35 PM
Yup $15 from my local dealer.
The price has dropped way down from previous years.

Such a nice result from such a cheap part in Audi land.

:)

your daddy
12-06-2011, 07:54 PM
Yep. I am a supporter of this mod. Definately helped my power return in my endeavors. People, when the pump clicks off the first time, you are done. Too much fuel in the tank will get soaked up into the charcoal filter and plug up everything. That is why we all experience the gas pump clicking off over and over again. Although, I paid almost $40 for the part at the dealer.
and break up said charcoal, and end up in you n80.. when you take it off. tap the ports on a white piece of paper. look at the crap you put through your evap system by doing that. and allowing the n80 not to fuly close..

jibatnes
12-07-2011, 04:43 AM
Stop OVER PAYING for your Audi parts! [az]
EuropaParts.com (http://www.europaparts.com/) has it for $13.95! CLICK HERE (http://www.europaparts.com/purge-valve-06e906517a.html) for Purge Valve.

http://media.europaparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/170x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/0/6/06e906517a.jpg (http://www.europaparts.com/purge-valve-06e906517a.html)

Im trying to order this and some other stuff from your webby. Seems to be some problems with the webby because there is no items listed for any of the models in there.

dba4
12-07-2011, 05:19 AM
got mine will be installing tonight and see if it helps.

Hugh@EuropaParts
12-07-2011, 06:07 AM
Im trying to order this and some other stuff from your webby. Seems to be some problems with the webby because there is no items listed for any of the models in there.

Site went down for maintenance... everything is back.

scottns
12-10-2011, 09:08 AM
Just a quick question. What's the easiest way to take off the factory clamps? They looked crimped on... thanks.

jimrobbington
12-10-2011, 09:26 AM
Just a quick question. What's the easiest way to take off the factory clamps? They looked crimped on... thanks.

I pry the end of the tab up with a screw driver enough so I can grab it with needle nose and yank the hell out of it. It you look closely, there are little teeth, so you have to pull away and up at the same time.

JR

tankdeer
12-10-2011, 09:38 AM
Yup, pry. If you do it carefully you can reuse them. If not you can get them from McMaster

BoSNiaN
12-10-2011, 03:05 PM
And just for easy reference, this is where it is:

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo109/jimrobbington/2011-09-19113216.jpg

If you can blow through it, it's bad.

Are those aftermarket clamps? Will my stock ones be 1 time use ones so I should pickup 2 of em as well? [:|]

tankdeer
12-10-2011, 03:28 PM
Stock clamps are technically 1 use. You can reuse them with a little effort. I don't trust those worm clamps myself.

chrislane31
12-10-2011, 03:52 PM
Hugh do you sell new clamps?

golfvdude
12-10-2011, 04:32 PM
Just ordered. Minus well since I'm throwing money at the car. There goes my intercooler.......for now.

jimrobbington
12-10-2011, 05:24 PM
Are those aftermarket clamps? Will my stock ones be 1 time use ones so I should pickup 2 of em as well? [:|]

Yes, those are the hose clamps I replaced the stock ones with after replacing the n80. They come in like 4 packs for cheap at auto parts store.

JR

scottns
12-12-2011, 08:34 AM
Thanks guys. I did buy new small clamps like in the picture so I should be all set.

Stewy
12-12-2011, 09:12 AM
I replaced mine last weekend. The little crimp clamps were a PITA to remove, but other than that it was an easy swap. The car definitely seems to idle smoother. I replaced the "one time use clamps" with traditional screw-type hose clamps.

fEArmE
01-01-2012, 02:48 PM
oh boy.. what a significant difference after replacing the N80. i can instantly feel smoother gear change, especially from 2nd to 3rd!! RPM surge during gear change is minimized if not totally eliminated... It took me an hour to remove the 2 OEM hose clamps.. 20 minutes to remove the proximal end (harness connector end) of the hose from the valve until i've decided to cut it using a pair of scissors LOL.. trust me, i have tried pouring 208°F hot water to it but the valve aint moving a little... here's the old N80 with partial hose attached LOL

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6615413215_6dcebc039a_b.jpg

It is worth every effort.. i'm loving it!

robstitzer
01-01-2012, 03:34 PM
Just ordered one. Looking forward to the swap!

80sGuy
01-01-2012, 08:17 PM
oh boy.. what a significant difference after replacing the N80. i can instantly feel smoother gear change, especially from 2nd to 3rd!! RPM surge during gear change is minimized if not totally eliminated... It took me an hour to remove the 2 OEM hose clamps.. 20 minutes to remove the proximal end (harness connector end) of the hose from the valve until i've decided to cut it using a pair of scissors LOL.. trust me, i have tried pouring 208°F hot water to it but the valve aint moving a little... here's the old N80 with partial hose attached LOL

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6615413215_6dcebc039a_b.jpg

It is worth every effort.. i'm loving it!When I got the clamps off, and yes it took me a pretty long time too and then I swivel and spin the device until the hoses starts to get loose, then just pull it out....pretty tight I say.

bman005
01-02-2012, 11:48 AM
When I got the clamps off, and yes it took me a pretty long time too and then I swivel and spin the device until the hoses starts to get loose, then just pull it out....pretty tight I say.

That's what she said

ridin
01-06-2012, 09:46 AM
Thought I would mention this key word in this thread: P0455. That's what your description matches up with ("large evap leak code").

Just got this code the other day. I have RPM fluctuation issues which based on other threads is leading me to believe it's the Torque Converter. Hoping the N80 does the trick, cause the car as been acting severely poor...no acceleration, poor gas mileage.

chrislane31
01-06-2012, 09:48 AM
Waiting to put mine in as well.

jimrobbington
01-06-2012, 10:09 AM
Waiting to put mine in as well.

What are you waiting for? Takes 10 min with needle nose.

JR

tankdeer
01-06-2012, 10:12 AM
Thought I would mention this key word in this thread: P0455. That's what your description matches up with ("large evap leak code").

Just got this code the other day. I have RPM fluctuation issues which based on other threads is leading me to believe it's the Torque Converter. Hoping the N80 does the trick, cause the car as been acting severely poor...no acceleration, poor gas mileage.
It could be P0456 too. Or P0441

chrislane31
01-06-2012, 10:17 AM
What are you waiting for? Takes 10 min with needle nose.

JR

I got it yesterday and have to replace the coolant bleeder washer. Just need 10 mins and the car to be cold. That may tak a month or so to actually happen at the same time.

matthewb2795
01-07-2012, 10:37 AM
Just finished replacing my N80 on my 47,XXX mile B7. What a difference $13.95 (europaparts.com) and 20 minutes makes. I have a 6-speed that now shifts like it did when I bought the car - much smoother!

mcpcartier
01-07-2012, 11:43 AM
Just finished replacing my N80 on my 47,XXX mile B7. What a difference $13.95 (europaparts.com) and 20 minutes makes. I have a 6-speed that now shifts like it did when I bought the car - much smoother!

What did your shift feel like before it being smooth? Was there a hesitation or something? I've only had my A4 for a few months and I think it shifts great, but maybe it could be better....just not sure. Actually, been having some issues with the sync going from 2nd to 3rd...about to research that.

Got it with 98K on it and working my way through all the maintenance items I'm discovering on this forum.

jimrobbington
01-07-2012, 12:11 PM
I believe he means the smoothness of the throttle when shifting. The n80 will do nothing to improve the actual gears. You seem to get a beyer throttle response back when doing the n80 that makes shifting seem smoother.

JR

matthewb2795
01-07-2012, 12:21 PM
^ correct Jim. Couldn't have said it better myself.

mcpcartier
01-07-2012, 12:52 PM
Got it...my throttle response seems great, particularly after getting the revo tune. I'll put it on the list and see if there is any difference.

GA42.0T
02-27-2012, 06:31 AM
Just to be clear, THIS is NOT what we want, right? Bosch part # 0280142308 is $54 at EuropaParts (http://www.europaparts.com/purge-valve-077133517c.html).

http://newbeetle.org/forums/attachments/2-0-liter-gas/54528d1237995635-evap-purge-valve-n80-valve-purge-valve.jpg

This?



This feller right, here though, IS nice and inexpensive (http://www.europaparts.com/purge-valve-06e906517a.html)and IS what we want, right? Mfg Part #: 06E906517A

Stop OVER PAYING for your Audi parts! [az]
EuropaParts.com (http://www.europaparts.com/) has it for $13.95! CLICK HERE (http://www.europaparts.com/purge-valve-06e906517a.html) for Purge Valve.

http://media.europaparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/170x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/0/6/06e906517a.jpg (http://www.europaparts.com/purge-valve-06e906517a.html)

ridin
02-27-2012, 06:52 AM
This feller right, here though, IS nice and inexpensive (http://www.europaparts.com/purge-valve-06e906517a.html)and IS what we want, right? Mfg Part #: 06E906517A

Yes...but you might as well hit up the dealership....got mine from the dealership for 22 bucks. From Europa, with the cheapest USPS shipping, only saving about 2 bucks (at least from my location).

tankdeer
02-27-2012, 08:00 AM
+1. Don't bother getting an aftermarket part. I got one from the dealer for $13 about 18 months ago for the old avant. And just got one from GAP (because I was ordering some other stuff) for the new avant for $12. Any more than $20 and you're getting ripped off. GAP + shipping most places is still less than that.

Blindsay06
02-27-2012, 09:22 AM
Do i need to keep anything in mind for the new hose clamps, or just buy whatever?

gonna order the valve from Europaparts if they happen to have any

tankdeer
02-27-2012, 09:31 AM
Personally I just reuse the existing clamps. It's the easiest. Just loosen them enough with a pair of needle nose to get the valve out. Then recrimp them with a pair of dikes. (or similar)

null
11-27-2012, 07:07 PM
OK - I'm having the same issue. Car drives 100% the same. I only have 0442 code keep coming up. Initially I had another code, I believe p0441 very small leak - but after clearing it went away. 0442 is persistent and I can't shake it - cleared 3 times already.

I took off the driver side rear wheel fender liner and inspected the hoses and the pump - nothing that i could see as far as loose, or holes etc. I even took some clear silicone and covered the hose that had something just remotely looking like a scratch or something.

I changed the gas cap seal. Brand new seal, and i noticed a thin small springy wire showing up from the side where you put in the pump. It was unusual - I don't think I ever noticed it before but I didn't really look too hard there. What is it for?


I'm getting really frustrated with this. Anybody - please help!

ijaved
12-27-2012, 12:14 PM
Personally I just reuse the existing clamps. It's the easiest. Just loosen them enough with a pair of needle nose to get the valve out. Then recrimp them with a pair of dikes. (or similar)

I bought 2 OEM hose clamps (clips) just to be safe but how on earth do you loosen em up? any one else has any tips on loosening them up?

ijaved
12-27-2012, 12:35 PM
I bought 2 OEM hose clamps (clips) just to be safe but how on earth do you loosen em up? any one else has any tips on loosening them up?

Alright its called Stepless Ear Clamp (http://www.kegkits.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=OCLAMP)

And this is how you use it. http://i.imgur.com/kJQ2G.gif. You can buy oetiker clamps which are pretty famous I guess. Anyways just wanted to post this up for someone else who will be replacing n80.

tankdeer
12-27-2012, 12:55 PM
Just crimp them with a pair of dull dikes. Works fine if you don't need to crimp a bunch, so no need to buy the tool. (If you do buy the tool, don't buy from that site. That guy is a doucher. Gets bad reviews all the time on the various homebrewing boards)