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View Full Version : Inner rear pads wearing more than outer pad. Guide pin replacement needed?



4A Play
10-20-2011, 06:02 AM
Never had this issue and a buddy of mine said that I need to replace my rear guide pins.

Does this sound right? Any special tools needed? Do the old pins just on screw out? Is there a DIY floating around? I havent been able to find one.

1998 2.8Q 5SPD

Thanks guys!

FNK
10-20-2011, 06:20 AM
Does the wear on the pads appear to be taper? Or the wear is it simply uneven from one side to the other?

As for the pin, start by disassembling the rear.
http://i55.tinypic.com/2utkvud.png
http://i53.tinypic.com/2iuxs38.png

1- Remove Screw #1 (there's two)
2- Remove bolts #3 and #5

This will leave you in hand with the brake carrier, who also include the guide slide pin.

Remove the rubber and the sliding pin to remove the old grease/dirt. Inspect the parts if they are worn or bent. If they are, yes you should replace them, otherwise reuse them!

Re-grease with quality grease, such as this;
http://media.supercheapauto.com.au/sca/images/1406.jpg
Reassemble, if done right your brake calipers should slide much easier now.

-:vw:-
10-20-2011, 06:29 AM
Happened to me more times than I can count... Pull it all apart pull the guide pins out of the carrier and inspect for rust colored grease or just dried crusty grease. Wipre the pins of with a rag and some brake parts cleaner. Get a round metal brush, typically you can find them in the plumbing section at the hardware store and ram rod that bitch into the holes where the guide pins slide in. Spray the shit out of those also with break parts cleaner. Make sure you get all the old grease out and let it all dry for a bit. Inspect the guide pin boots for tears or corrosion and replace if necessary. Reassemble if everything looks good. Dip the whole length of the guide pin in a tube of grease and reinstall them in the pad carrier. Hit the edges of the pad carrier with a stiff wire brush where the pads rest/slide and then grease the shit out of that area as well. This should help with the binding.

4A Play
10-20-2011, 06:48 AM
Wow thanks for the prompt response guys!

The car has 186k on it so I called the local Autozone and they happen to have the guide pin/ rear hardware kit for $7. Ill pick that up and a tube of grease on the way home. I figure this is the last time the rear will be apart and I want to make sure all is good before winter.

Any idea on the metric size of the rear wheel bolts? Harbor freight is out of their metric impact sets so Ill have to buy a single socket for my wheels. Last rotation I had the mechanic didn't put thread protector on the bolts and they are all rusted/ seized up. They've been soaking all day in PB blaster in prep for tonight brake job.

Thanks for the help again!

-:vw:-
10-20-2011, 06:54 AM
For the wheels I believe it's 17mm.

ECS Tuning-Audi
10-20-2011, 07:51 AM
Correct the wheel bolts are 17mm. The inner pad wearing more than the outside pad really isn't anything to be alarmed about. The pad that's on the piston side usually sees more wear then the one on the other side.

Lubing/servicing the guide pins is never a bad idea though!

Jason

walky_talky20
10-20-2011, 08:16 AM
Make sure to use only the correct type of grease. Your typical red bearing grease is *not* acceptable. The rubber parts in the brake system (boots, seals, etc) are special rubber (Ethylene Propylene) that is not affected by brake fluid. However, this makes it incompatible with regular (petroleum) grease. It will swell up and cause problems if put in contact with the wrong type of grease. Use the right stuff:

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/ptx/24110c.jpg

It is typically a green/blue color and is also available in small packets for small jobs:

http://www.gomotoshop.com/images/P/perm3.jpg

ricekikr
10-20-2011, 08:51 AM
^wait what?

Does this mean the red grease the Hawk HPS pads come with, aren't compatible? Should I re-grease?

walky_talky20
10-20-2011, 09:03 AM
The color of the grease is not important. It is the chemical makeup. I'm sure the grease that Hawk ships is synthetic silicon grease, just red in color. Not to worry. My point was to address that typical red grease (which is generally equated to axle/bearing grease) is petroleum based and is not correct for this application. You cannot just use *any* grease. Even if you use a regular synthetic grease, it may not be rated for the extreme heat that brakes have to deal with. It must be rated for disc brake application.

Seerlah
10-20-2011, 09:16 AM
On the subject of Hawk HPS pads, are the rear pads tapered in? I can't recall (I think they are) and noticed my rotors only has wear from near the middle of the surface outwards. Time will tell if it is an issue or not (when the tapered section no longer exists, if that's the case), but just a little bit curious. Also it is like this on both sides, but just want confirmation for a sense of security.

ricekikr
10-20-2011, 10:29 AM
Oh ok. I thought it was some weird Audi thing again (like specific coolant, PS fluid etc etc.) lol.

4A Play
10-22-2011, 03:01 PM
Well it took 4 hours with hand tools and dealing with uber northern winter rust but all is replaced. Thanks for all the help guys! Gotta love fresh brakes!

bmarshall
10-22-2011, 04:39 PM
http://www.tyrolsport.com/index.php?p=product&id=124&parent=64
Tyrol brake stiffening kit.