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View Full Version : My AEB to ATW Harness Conversion with 2.0 GTI ULEV Coils



xdewaynex
10-07-2011, 09:45 AM
I just wanted to start this thread, even though I wont have the stuff to do the swap until tomorrow or Sunday. I just had an ATW harness shipped overnight to my local VW dealership, and asked about coils as well. I seen in one of the threads people were going with the 2.0 GTI ULEV California Emissions coils part number 06H 905 115. The harness I got for $50 plus taxes and the coils are $24 plus tax which are in stock. This definitely beats having to wait until next week to have them shipped from an online order. I will do another DIY and hopefully make it a little more clearer than those out there. For now, to keep the coils in place, Im going to use a piece of flat stock to run across the coils and use longer bolts unto the valve cover. I will later be picking up the adapters from INA and possibly the hold downs from ECS if I dont like the flat stock. I will keep this thread updated throughout the weekend.

The ATW harness on ECS http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Atw_Harness/ES7679/

The 2.0 coils on Europarts http://www.europaparts.com/ignition-coil-pack-06e905115e.html

And honestly, I believe the part number I posted above, is the older p/n. When I talked to the parts guy on the phone, he mentioned it had actually been changed from H to E.

Cue the "This Thread Is Worthless Without Pics" emoticons, lol.


AEB to AWP Coil Harness Swap with 2.0 GTI ULEV Coils...Updated 10/8/11

I traces the harness back to behind the head, where all the wires come together in a Y shape. The wires for the MAF, N75, Evap Purge, Fuel Injectors, ICM and Coils, are all wrapped together. I slit all the heat shrink and took the tap off the make it easier to find all the wires. I then separated all the wires, and got what I need out of the way.


Just a picture of the stock AEB 1.8 Harness and coils

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08120804.jpg

The 2.0 GTI Coils in place. You can kind of see the gap from the VC to the coils, where the coils are longer than the 1.8's.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08122607.jpg

A comparison of the AEB and AWP harnesses

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08122634.jpg

The wires from the ICM plug that you will need to use. Green/White Tracer, Red/Grey Tracer, Yellow/Grey Tracer, Grey/Yellow Tracer along with the thick Brown ICM ground wire.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08124245.jpg

The Black/Blue Tracer wires you will need as well.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08124410.jpg

All the wires together than will need to be used. The Grey and White wires leading to my hand, they will not be used, and will be pulled out along with the ICM and Coil Plugs.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08124657.jpg

To make it easier with wiring, the AWP harness has Black/Purple Tracer wires to each coil plug, and the AEB harness has Black/Blue Tracer wires to go to each plug. Before I removed the AEB harness, I marked which Black/Blue Tracer wire went to what cylinder with tape. I also done the same with the Black/Purple Tracer wires. Note: On the AWP harness, the Black/Purple Tracer wires are connected together and then come out with 2 leads. I cut them apart to mate up to each Black/Blue Tracer wire from the AEB Harness.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08125830.jpg

Showing the Black/Purple Tracer wires mated together on the AWP Harness. You will need to cut them apart so you have 4 individual wires.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08130858.jpg

The AWP Harness after its been trimmed, and what you will be using. The harness is like 5ft long, and has 2 extra plugs on it, but you will only be using like 1.5-2ft of the harness.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08133115.jpg

I went to Radio Shack and found a 12 pin male and female quick disconnect that I thought would be a good idea to use, kind of like what 034 did with their harness. Just showing the harness taped back up and with the electrical ends attached and heat shrinked, ready to put in the plug.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08135614.jpg

Both harnesses plugged together, using the Radio Shack plug. It worked out pretty good, and looks decent.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08145246.jpg

Harness in place and hooked up to the coils.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08150547.jpg

Everything in place on the firewall. There is also a small Tan or Brown wire in the AWP harness that needs to be grounded on the back of the valve cover. I didnt have a ring terminal, so I just wrapped it around the bolt until I can get one.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08150604.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08150609.jpg

Here is the chart I used from the write up on Passat World that I was happy to find since I got an AWP harness and not an ATW harness, and already had all the colors matched up.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g288/TeRRoR999/ICM%20DELETE%20WRITE%20UP/Diagram.jpg

Ive got my plugs gapped to .040 and other than the MAF needing to adjust since having the battery unhooked, the car started fine, seemed to idle better and a better throttle response.

viceprp
10-07-2011, 10:34 AM
Explain the conversion... the atw engine is a narrowband so why a 2.0?

chris164935
10-07-2011, 10:50 AM
Explain the conversion... the atw engine is a narrowband so why a 2.0?
The harness he posted is just for the coil packs. He's switching to the 4-wire coils and eliminating the AEB's ICM. The 2.0T coilpacks are longer and allow for a hotter spark. I believe people have reported running gaps as big as .04" on their spark plugs verse the recommended .032"-.028" on the 1.8t coilpacks. This means it burns fuel better for more mpg, power, etc.

EDIT:
VWVortex thread for more reading. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5280361-2.0T-Coilpacks-and-spark-plug-gap-trying-random-new-stuff.

A1 A2 German
10-07-2011, 12:59 PM
Double fantastic! I was asking for a thread like this in another one of my posts and double part? Hell, for the costs of those coils as opposed to the AEBs makes the harness on ECS free!

Do close clear wire pics please! Step by step would be awesome! I'm suspecting a coil or two is out, so think I'm jumping on this.

xdewaynex
10-07-2011, 01:09 PM
I plan on taking a lot of pics of the wiring and all the steps with them. Ive been having a Cyl 1 misfire, and I checked on 1.8 AEB coils, which were around $50 a piece at Autozone. So $24 and some tax for the 2.0 coils, this swap, it will save in the long run.

A1 A2 German
10-07-2011, 02:43 PM
In addition to:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-FWD-1.8T/Engine/Ignition/ES1303016/

The AWM valve cover is needed?

xdewaynex
10-07-2011, 02:49 PM
You can use your stock valve cover. INA makes spacers/adapters for the push down coils, since the 2.0 coils are longer than the 1.8's. But if you can find a valve cover that works, it might be cheaper than the spacers, which are $89 shipped from INA. I just noticed on ECS they state those hold downs are for the AWM only. I honestly dont see why they would work with the spacers if you use a little longer of a bolt.

A1 A2 German
10-07-2011, 02:53 PM
Here's the deal, I have 0 issues buying another valve cover as my AEB I was going to pull any ways and do all the work to vent it. So, buying another, that is already vented AND accepts these coils would be tits not to mention I wouldn't have to get the spacers. Would that be the AWM cover?

xdewaynex
10-07-2011, 03:09 PM
I may be wrong, but I believe for all 1.8 applications, the spacers are needed for the 2.0 coils. So really, I dont think getting a new valve cover will really help.

ZimbutheMonkey
10-07-2011, 04:25 PM
Let me know how this works out. I got my pushdown coils in today rather than Monday so I'll be doing it over the weekend.

xdewaynex
10-07-2011, 04:31 PM
Awesome. I was expecting to have the harness this coming Tuesday, but my friend got it overnighted to the dealership, so I can pick it up tomorrow.

xdewaynex
10-07-2011, 07:21 PM
I got to thinking about the 034 harness, that comes with separate pins and a connector, so the harness is like a quick disconnect. I might be making a trip to Radio Shack, and coming up with one of my own. Pictured below is what Im talking about.

http://www.034motorsport.com/oscthumbwm/w/700/h/700/q/95/f/jpg/fltr/wmi|phpThumb/watermarks/034watermark|C|20|0/hash/bbbb2edef660739a6071ab5a4f8a869f/src/images/1.8tRepairHarness1.jpg

walky_talky20
10-07-2011, 08:18 PM
I may be wrong, but I believe for all 1.8 applications, the spacers are needed for the 2.0 coils. So really, I dont think getting a new valve cover will really help.

Correct. The adapters (spacers) are needed for all 1.8T's as the depth is different between the 1.8T and the 2.0T. The AEB/ATW valve cover will work equally as well as the AWM/AMB cover. There is a difference between the adapters depending on which cover you have, though. The square adapters (aka version 1.3) will fit all 1.8T covers. The rounded adapters (v1.1 and v1.2) will only [properly] fit the AWM/AMB cover.

A1 A2 German
10-07-2011, 08:31 PM
This would be nice if didn't require all the work of notching and clearing. Just saying, if you got really trick coils, trick hold down brackets, and trick spacers, it would be nice to throw it on something like this. Any other trick vcs that require these mods to accept packs?

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-1918367471896_2175_122472975

csosnowski
10-07-2011, 10:16 PM
I got to thinking about the 034 harness, that comes with separate pins and a connector, so the harness is like a quick disconnect. I might be making a trip to Radio Shack, and coming up with one of my own. Pictured below is what Im talking about.

http://www.034motorsport.com/oscthumbwm/w/700/h/700/q/95/f/jpg/fltr/wmi|phpThumb/watermarks/034watermark|C|20|0/hash/bbbb2edef660739a6071ab5a4f8a869f/src/images/1.8tRepairHarness1.jpg

ahhhhh so thats how theyre doing it, I cant believe I havent seen this on their site. got a link to the product page?

Turbo Nerd
10-07-2011, 10:26 PM
3/4 of the way down on the right.

http://www.034motorsport.com/ignition-solutions-c-26.html

xdewaynex
10-08-2011, 08:16 AM
Ok so I ran into one small problem upon inspecting the new harness. Its actually an AWP harness, not an ATW, which the wire colors are different. Im searching now to see what wires are what.

xdewaynex
10-08-2011, 08:59 AM
After doing some searching, I remember seeing a thread on Passat World with the same harness I received, and in the thread the user made a chart showing which wires go where.

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/42-club-b5/333953-1998-volkswagen-passat-1-8t-aeb-icm-delete-diy.html

Im going outside now to attempt this swap.

murdered APR a4
10-08-2011, 09:29 AM
looks interesting, cant wait for results and pics

xdewaynex
10-08-2011, 12:48 PM
Everything was a success. Im uploading pictures now to begin my write up.

frameshift18
10-08-2011, 01:12 PM
Everything was a success. Im uploading pictures now to begin my write up.

Awesome. [up]

xdewaynex
10-08-2011, 01:42 PM
Updated the first post with pictures and description. Hope this helps people that get the AWP harness and not the ATW harness. Im pleased with how smooth everything went.

ZimbutheMonkey
10-08-2011, 03:26 PM
Very well done writeup!!! I'm just getting ready to start cutting the ME7 harness so I'll be paying close attention. Mods, sticky this one in the writeups section please and thank you XdewayneX for taking the time to write it up. Having done a few, I know it's time consuming so big up to you [up]

xdewaynex
10-08-2011, 03:53 PM
Not a problem man, glad I could help out. I wanted to do this for a while, and honestly didnt think I would do it so soon. I found out I had a Cyl.1 misfire the other day and a coil pack was going to be over $50, so why not $100 more and make it cheaper in the end.

ZimbutheMonkey
10-09-2011, 12:15 AM
So I got mine done as well, however it turned into a bit of a clusterf*ck. I ended up using crimp fittings on account of time constraints and just kind of wrapped up the wiring as best as I could. So I'm sure I'm getting some interference. It still wants to break up above 18 PSI. However it pulls like a mofo at 18. When I get some spare time I'll probably pull the taping off the wiring and try and insulate things better. I also need to get a different set of plugs, as my old plugs may be part of my problem.

In any case, it runs as good or better and I know I can get it running better than what it is now. So for the whole $83 and an afternoon/evening that it cost, I'd say it was well worth it.

gmx
10-09-2011, 12:58 AM
Good writeup.

The main concern is heat resistance. If you look up the manufacturer and model of the 034 connector. It's moisture resistant and resistant up to 105C on numerous heating cycles. More yada yada like tested under xG of force numerous times etc etc.

Then you have the bare wires themselves etc.
FYI, the blue/black tracer is constant 12ve+.


Btw, are you guys using plain jane electrical tape on the wires to wrap them again?? Seen this more than once now, it got me wondering why [eek]

ZimbutheMonkey
10-09-2011, 01:27 AM
Nah, just to get them into place. From there I have DEI Heat tape around it.

gmx
10-09-2011, 02:09 AM
Does that stuff leave a sticky residue after heat cycles time?

xdewaynex
10-09-2011, 04:27 AM
I kind of thought in my head the Black/Blue wires were the 12v volts. The plug should be ok, as all the metal connections in the plug fit snug together. As for wrapping, I used electrical tape for now. Plan on getting some heat resistant wrap when I get paid next.

Zimbu, I regapped my BKR7E's to .040 from .026 and its doing fine. I thought about trying out different plugs, but I really dont know what plugs would be good for the upgraded application. Hope you get yours straightened out.

viceprp
10-09-2011, 06:13 AM
Explain the conversion... the atw engine is a narrowband so why a 2.0?

Feel stupid now that I read the entire title. Was on the Droid and thought you were doing a 2.0 build and changing the entire harness over for an ATW. Made no sense seeing how the ATW is a narrowband car. FacePalm

ZimbutheMonkey
10-09-2011, 12:17 PM
Does that stuff leave a sticky residue after heat cycles time?

Quite possibly, but only on the backside and so does most stuff. As long as you're not planning on constantly opening them up it should be OK. I got to thinking, what I may do is insulate the individual 12V supply lines+trigger lines with a the heat shielding tape and then wrap all 4 lines together to clean it up and heat protect it. What I used to keep it on was some really thin wire and tied it together every 2-3 inches.

ZimbutheMonkey
10-09-2011, 09:57 PM
So quick update, I isolated everything and ran 4 separate grounds to 4 separate locations (each right beside it's respective coil) and that seemed to do a world of good. All I can say is holy shit, what a difference from the AEB system. I know I picked up a lot of power, not just a bit. The most interesting part though, was boost recovery between shifts. Up until now, every time I shifted from 2-3 it would take an eternity to ramp back up. Now, it just shoots back up.

Here's a 2-3 gear pull with the old coils
http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo238/tlillo1/LOGoct0855DC20psiaebcoil.jpg

One with the new coils. Look at the turquoise line to see the mass air flow. Also, note that the new coils allowed for another 5 degrees of timing to be maintained in 3rd, why that is, I don't know. Seeing as there wasn't any timing being pulled in either case.
http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo238/tlillo1/newcoilsyspull50DC.jpg

Avant Nate
05-25-2013, 07:43 AM
Thanks, I just used your right-up. For those looking for an AWP harness, i got mine at DBCtuninghttp://shop.dbctuning.com/1J0971658L_p/1j0971658l.htm for about $30 less than anyone else was selling it. It seems that demand has driven up the price over the last couple of years.
One thing I wasn't sure of but just followed the instructions. The right-up calls for the separation of the Black with purple tracer. Could'nt you just combine the Black with Blue tracer to supply the Black with Purple? Or are they cylinder specific?

Couple of points:
The return lines from the ICM that you pull are a little deep in the Y of the original harness. I had to double check a wiring diagram to make sure as i was slicing open the harness. Here's another suggestion. Pull up the original harness and make sure all the cuts are even so that when you attach it to your new harness, all the new lines are even. I didn't, as I did one coil at a time so the lines where of slightly different lengths, making the taping job not as easy and a little messier. You can't really see as it because its behind the head. It all worked fine though and I soldered the new harness together.

One problem, now I have no misfires, so I'm able to sustain boost around 25psi, and I blew of an intercooler hose on the highway.

GrapeBandit
08-31-2014, 09:56 AM
ive been reading into doing this, but I hate wiring. all the links to the wiring harness on various threads are all broken links. one guy uses a 5cyl harness, you use atw. im trying to get this crap all sorted out because I want to pull the trigger. so what harness would be the cheapest and easiest to use?

also, they all show something about using the big ground connected to the icm ground. what happens to all the other icm wires? just rip them out from their source?

S4NIK8
08-31-2014, 10:22 AM
I sourced a replacement harness from the local VW dealer, it was $70(?) or so for the coil pack wiring. The dealer carries a replacement section for the coil pack wiring separate from buying a complete harness. I also dislike wiring and didn't find it to be very difficult of a job.

Turbo_B5
08-31-2014, 10:31 AM
It's always good to check compression too. You can get a compression tester for cheap at harbor freight.

I got my coil packs at www.genuineaudiparts.com for like $16 for the red tops. The harness I got at www.europaparts.com. The part number is 1J0971658L.

Here is the DIY I followed:

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61-b5-information-base/333953-1998-volkswagen-passat-1-8t-aeb-icm-delete-diy.html

Some patience, a soldering iron, and a few beers, and I was done. Really not that difficult, but using tape to label and separate the wires will be a life saver.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/15/hevu2y8u.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/15/u9y7adad.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/15/7yqy4u9e.jpg

It's also a good time to chAnge out your valve cover gaskets and paint the valve cover.

EDIT: Just glanced upon the classifieds lookin for shit I can't afford, and came across this. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=604795

I payed $65 for my harness. The part number is 1J0971658L.

GrapeBandit
08-31-2014, 10:34 AM
I sourced a replacement harness from the local VW dealer, it was $70(?) or so for the coil pack wiring. The dealer carries a replacement section for the coil pack wiring separate from buying a complete harness. I also dislike wiring and didn't find it to be very difficult of a job.

so what harness did you use? OP talks about atw, then says awp. the wiring chart from the ecs harness is from what harness? atw or awp? this shit seems too confusing. also, the chart zays "brown w/yellow tracer merged". whats merged?

another thing I read, the new harness has 4 grounds, so why am I only seeing one grond to the original ground like before?

Turbo_B5
08-31-2014, 10:44 AM
I used http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61-b5-information-base/333953-1998-volkswagen-passat-1-8t-aeb-icm-delete-diy.html

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g288/TeRRoR999/ICM%20DELETE%20WRITE%20UP/Diagram.jpg

That works with the harness part number is 1J0971658L.

EDIT: It makes more sence once you get the harness infront of you.

S4NIK8
08-31-2014, 10:47 AM
I don't remember exactly which harness it was. http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-New_Beetle--1.8T/Engine/Electrical/Harness/ES2506749/ ecs sells a few that will work. The wiring colors on the new harness don't need to match as long as you match the cylinders with the old wiring color. I wish I remembered more about doing it but it's been a few years since I swapped mine over.

GrapeBandit
08-31-2014, 10:48 AM
but whats up with the 4 grounds but pics only show one that goes to the original spot on the vc?

A1 A2 German
08-31-2014, 12:52 PM
^

They all tie together and go to vc.

GrapeBandit
09-01-2014, 01:31 PM
What are the PART #'s ?

RED MKV FSI Coil Packs - 06E 905 115
BLACK MKV FSI Coil Packs - 07K 905 715 F
BLACK MKV TSI Coil Packs - 06F 905 115 F
BLACK MKVI TSI Coil Packs - 06H 905 115
so whats the difference between all these coilpacks?

I think I remember reading somewhere that some of these are shorter/longer than each other. true?

A1 A2 German
09-01-2014, 08:22 PM
You should buy the revision E's, red's.

06E905115E Note the E at the end. http://www.europaparts.com/ignition-coil-pack-06e905115e.html

The harness needed is $49 via ECS and for the Mark 4 VW. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5014172-ECS-Tuning-OEM-Mk4-1-8T-Coil-Pack-Wiring-Harness-Replacement-Free-Shipping-!!!

walky_talky20
09-01-2014, 08:34 PM
so whats the difference between all these coilpacks?

I think I remember reading somewhere that some of these are shorter/longer than each other. true?

They are all the same length (which is longer than factory 1.8T coils).

RED MKV FSI Coil Packs - 06E 905 115 (These are Red ELDOR coils, high output)
BLACK MKV FSI Coil Packs - 07K 905 715 F (These are Black ELDOR coils, high output)
BLACK MKV TSI Coil Packs - 06F 905 115 F (These are superseded to the 07K number above)
BLACK MKVI TSI Coil Packs - 06H 905 115 (These are Black BOSCH coils, high output but seem to fail more often than the ELDOR units).

The favorite at the moment is the Red 06E coils. Notably, they are the factory coil used on the Audi R8.
The BOSCH coil have impressive capability as well, but many have experienced failures when pushing them hard (ie: using large plug gaps). The BOSCH coils have been revised twice (06H 905 115A, and 06H 905 115B - the latest). So those may hold up better, but the ELDOR's are more proven, presently.

GrapeBandit
09-02-2014, 04:57 AM
You should buy the revision E's, red's.

06E905115E Note the E at the end. http://www.europaparts.com/ignition-coil-pack-06e905115e.html

The harness needed is $49 via ECS and for the Mark 4 VW. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5014172-ECS-Tuning-OEM-Mk4-1-8T-Coil-Pack-Wiring-Harness-Replacement-Free-Shipping-!!!
that harness has a broken link, and no part #. it may have been $49 4 years ago, most likely not the case anymore. is that the awp harness?


They are all the same length (which is longer than factory 1.8T coils).

RED MKV FSI Coil Packs - 06E 905 115 (These are Red ELDOR coils, high output)
BLACK MKV FSI Coil Packs - 07K 905 715 F (These are Black ELDOR coils, high output)
BLACK MKV TSI Coil Packs - 06F 905 115 F (These are superseded to the 07K number above)
BLACK MKVI TSI Coil Packs - 06H 905 115 (These are Black BOSCH coils, high output but seem to fail more often than the ELDOR units).

The favorite at the moment is the Red 06E coils. Notably, they are the factory coil used on the Audi R8.
The BOSCH coil have impressive capability as well, but many have experienced failures when pushing them hard (ie: using large plug gaps). The BOSCH coils have been revised twice (06H 905 115A, and 06H 905 115B - the latest). So those may hold up better, but the ELDOR's are more proven, presently.
I may just go with the bosch O6H 905 115B. the reason being is that I will buy new ones with a warranty, so if they should fail, I should be able to get a replacement, also, I hate red and sure as hell dont want red in my engine bay, unless someone can recommend a good paint that will hold up so I can paint them..lol

RallyeBourne
09-02-2014, 06:31 AM
that harness has a broken link, and no part #. it may have been $49 4 years ago, most likely not the case anymore. is that the awp harness?


I may just go with the bosch O6H 905 115B. the reason being is that I will buy new ones with a warranty, so if they should fail, I should be able to get a replacement, also, I hate red and sure as hell dont want red in my engine bay, unless someone can recommend a good paint that will hold up so I can paint them..lol
I wouldn't expect a warranty. You are using the cool packs outside off their original use. They were never meant for our engines, and therefore, good luck collecting on a warranty. That said, the latest revision (revision f's) are black.

As for the harness, I got mine at Europa for like $70. But it's gone up since I did mine. Here is a link.

http://www.europaparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=1J0971658L

GrapeBandit
09-02-2014, 06:35 AM
I wouldn't expect a warranty. You are using the cool packs outside off their original use. They were never meant for our engines, and therefore, good luck collecting on a warranty. That said, the latest revision (revision f's) are black.

As for the harness, I got mine at Europa for like $70. But it's gone up since I did mine. Here is a link.

http://www.europaparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=1J0971658L
why wouldnt you expect a warranty? The company doesnt know what engine im putting it on.

ecs has that harness for $65, might just get it from them. guess ill determine after I see both ecs and europa shipping rates

EDIT: I dont see any 06E 905 115F anywhere

RallyeBourne
09-02-2014, 06:41 AM
why wouldnt you expect a warranty? The company doesnt know what engine im putting it on.

ecs has that harness for $65, might just get it from them. guess ill determine after I see both ecs and europa shipping rates
I'm not saying you WON'T get a warranty. I'm just saying I wouldn't EXPECT a warranty.

GrapeBandit
09-02-2014, 06:58 AM
I'm not saying you WON'T get a warranty. I'm just saying I wouldn't EXPECT a warranty.
chances are they wont blow anyway, but why wouldn't you EXPECT a warranty? lol

RallyeBourne
09-02-2014, 09:58 AM
chances are they wont blow anyway, but why wouldn't you EXPECT a warranty? lol

Again, they were never meant for our engines. Just because you hope to deceive the company and omit the fact that you are using the coil packs outside of their original developed use, does not mean that you should expect that they will not find out and deny you warranty coverage.

By all means, hope for the best. But expect the worst.

RallyeBourne
09-02-2014, 10:05 AM
As for the revision f's, the part number is not 06E 905 115 F, it's 06F 905 115 F. But, that has been superseded by part number 07K 906 715 F. You can search for the old number or new number on genuineaudiparts and come up with the same results. Here's a link.

http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=07k905715f&make=Volkswagen&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214407

GrapeBandit
09-02-2014, 10:07 AM
Again, they were never meant for our engines. Just because you hope to deceive the company and omit the fact that you are using the coil packs outside of their original developed use, does not mean that you should expect that they will not find out and deny you warranty coverage.

By all means, hope for the best. But expect the worst.
I guess you are mr.honest. im sure the life expectancy of the coil pack has nothing to do with what car its on. plus, I doubt they even ask what yr, make, model you are using it on. if they do, I will just tell them r8 lol

GrapeBandit
09-02-2014, 10:09 AM
As for the revision f's, the part number is not 06E 905 115 F, it's 06F 905 115 F. But, that has been superseded by part number 07K 905 715 F. You can search for the old number or new number on genuineaudiparts and come up with the same results. Here's a link.

http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=07k905715f&make=Volkswagen&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214407
^fixed that PN for ya[;)]
ypu searched for vw parts, if you do it as audi, they are about $6 cheaper, which is in turn 1 free coil pack lol

RallyeBourne
09-02-2014, 10:38 AM
^fixed that PN for ya[;)]
ypu searched for vw parts, if you do it as audi, they are about $6 cheaper, which is in turn 1 free coil pack lol
Whoops. Damn sausage fingers... lol. A free coil pack is a good coil pack!

walky_talky20
09-02-2014, 11:48 AM
The coils are electrical parts. Unless you pay the dealer to put them in your bone stock car, I'd be very surprised if you actually got free replacements in the event a coil failure. Maybe the warranty says you should, but I really doubt free replacements would materialize. They are basically wear items on these cars.

A1 A2 German
09-02-2014, 12:06 PM
Lol....a set of four was like $60.....warrenty?

Mine were like $18.53 each.

GrapeBandit
09-02-2014, 12:40 PM
Lol....a set of four was like $60.....warrenty?

Mine were like $18.53 each.
its warranty, and yes, if one happens to blow, i have no issue picking up the phone or sending a few emails to get a warranty replacement. you dont have to buy it from the dealer to get a warranty, most of the online seller offer 1 year warranty.

am i a cheap skate because i want to hold a company to their warranty? i think not. remember, the squeaky wheel gets the grease

RallyeBourne
09-02-2014, 02:09 PM
Where are you seeing this warranty? Granted, I just barely skimmed (mostly because I don't really care), but I didn't see any warranty on GAP or ECS...

GrapeBandit
09-02-2014, 02:28 PM
Where are you seeing this warranty? Granted, I just barely skimmed (mostly because I don't really care), but I didn't see any warranty on GAP or ECS...

maybe not ecs, but gap and other sites. its a 12 month manufacturer warranty. some sites say must be installed by dealer or shop. I know a guy who owns a shop right down the street from me, he would have no problem writing me a receipt saying they were installed there.lol they probably wont take a shit in 12 months anyway. they arent AWM coils lol.

Avant Nate
09-02-2014, 10:21 PM
Dont forget adapter plates. Cheapest is 077 905 390.

GrapeBandit
09-03-2014, 01:55 AM
Dont forget adapter plates. Cheapest is 077 905 390.

thanks[up] those are the ones I was getting anyway..lol..no need to spend a fortune on metal ones that do the same thing. ordering everything today, the total is like $157 for awp harness, 4 coils, and 4 adapter plates. going to pick up heat shrink tubing at a local store.

chris164935
09-03-2014, 09:16 AM
I've been using the 06H 905 115 A coils for over 2 years with no issues. Stock motor, but it's my daily driver and I keep the plugs gapped at .04".

walky_talky20
09-03-2014, 01:10 PM
^Good info.

For comparison, my brother was running the debut Bosch coils: 06H 905 115 with plugs at .043". They have begun failing about 2 years in.

GrapeBandit
09-03-2014, 01:26 PM
im about to get AGN valve cover, I heard you dont need to shave the inner bore for the R8 coilpacks to drop in.

GrapeBandit
09-03-2014, 11:02 PM
for those of you who did this and used heat shrink tubing, what size did you use? they sell it in various sizes. im not talking about the length, but the thickness.

RallyeBourne
09-03-2014, 11:04 PM
I can check tomorrow. I always just have a big multipack at my disposal. I always have that, butt connectors, and hose clamps in the multipacks. I guess I got tired of having to ride my damn bicycle down to the parts store for one damn piece to finish up...

GrapeBandit
09-03-2014, 11:08 PM
I can check tomorrow. I always just have a big multipack at my disposal. I always have that, butt connectors, and hose clamps in the multipacks. I guess I got tired of having to ride my damn bicycle down to the parts store for one damn piece to finish up...
yea i was looking for a multi size pack from radio shack since i have store credit there. they only have single size packs, so im trying to be sure before i buy them and open a size i cant use

Turbo_B5
09-03-2014, 11:13 PM
yea i was looking for a multi size pack from radio shack since i have store credit there. they only have single size packs, so im trying to be sure before i buy them and open a size i cant use

I can check what i used tomorrow.

GrapeBandit
09-03-2014, 11:20 PM
rallyebourne and king_life, if you get a chance to check tomorrow let me know. thanks

mykeg6
09-04-2014, 01:24 AM
Can you use square IE coil adapters on an AWM valve cover?

Koldham
09-04-2014, 04:01 AM
When i did the swap, i used cheapo rock auto coils. swapped them for the coils on my dads mk5 GTI when he brought it in for a routine service and the dealer replaced them for free.

audinewberton
09-04-2014, 04:29 AM
When i did the swap, i used cheapo rock auto coils. swapped them for the coils on my dads mk5 GTI when he brought it in for a routine service and the dealer replaced them for free.

Did you notice a difference between the two? I'm looking into doing this soon also.

Has anybody used these? $64.80 shipped
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QUYML6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

GrapeBandit
09-04-2014, 06:50 AM
Did you notice a difference between the two? I'm looking into doing this soon also.

Has anybody used these? $64.80 shipped
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QUYML6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
not sure, but for like less than an extra $10 in total, you can get genuie OE ones from genuineaudiparts.com. may be worth the piece of mind, or, you can try these ones from amazon and let us know how it pans out for ya[:p]

RallyeBourne
09-04-2014, 07:19 AM
3/16" is what I used for shrink tubing

GrapeBandit
09-04-2014, 07:29 AM
3/16" is what I used for shrink tubing

sweet! thanks man

Avant Nate
09-04-2014, 08:12 AM
not sure, but for like less than an extra $10 in total, you can get genuie OE ones from genuineaudiparts.com. may be worth the piece of mind, or, you can try these ones from amazon and let us know how it pans out for ya[:p]
Or you can get OEM shipped for 71 From Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Volkswagen-Coil-Pack-07K-905-715F/dp/B005FMU21U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1409843431&sr=8-2&keywords=07k

redline380
09-04-2014, 08:17 AM
Can you use square IE coil adapters on an AWM valve cover?


what would be the point? All I did was swap the rubbers of my AWM coils onto the FSI coils and they plopped right in. They would have fit without doing that but they sit in a little tighter with the AWM coil rubbers on them.

mykeg6
09-04-2014, 09:36 AM
what would be the point? All I did was swap the rubbers of my AWM coils onto the FSI coils and they plopped right in. They would have fit without doing that but they sit in a little tighter with the AWM coil rubbers on them.

Because I have an AEB valve cover with IE coil adapters.

I bought an AWM valve cover to add another breather port.

The FSI coils would be longer and I do not have AWM coil rubber.

GrapeBandit
09-04-2014, 09:38 AM
Because I have an AEB valve cover with IE coil adapters.

I bought an AWM valve cover to add another breather port.

The FSI coils would be longer and I do not have AWM coil rubber.

just drill and tap the holes in the awm cover for the adapter. WIN

Turbo_B5
09-04-2014, 10:30 AM
rallyebourne and king_life, if you get a chance to check tomorrow let me know. thanks

I used 3mm tube and larger for the larger wires.

GrapeBandit
09-04-2014, 10:52 AM
^gotcha!. radioshack sells in american sizes, i guess ill grab a few packs of various sizes starting at around 1/8" and up, they are like $3.30 a pack

king_life...whats the biggest size you used?

Turbo_B5
09-04-2014, 01:53 PM
^gotcha!. radioshack sells in american sizes, i guess ill grab a few packs of various sizes starting at around 1/8" and up, they are like $3.30 a pack

king_life...whats the biggest size you used?

Without having any left I think I used 1/4inch tube. It came in an assorted pack of like 5 different sizes. Just do some test solders and try the heat shrink before you do it on the car. The harness will have extra wires to test on.

GrapeBandit
09-04-2014, 01:57 PM
Without having any left I think I used 1/4inch tube. It came in an assorted pack of like 5 different sizes. Just do some test solders and try the heat shrink before you do it on the car. The harness will have extra wires to test on.

im not going to solder. thats a NO-NO. not sure of the exact name, but im going to use the butt connections that you crimp then heat. lol...solder is always a chance it can break. they dont even solder wires in avaition repairs for that reason

redline380
09-04-2014, 02:04 PM
im not going to solder. thats a NO-NO. not sure of the exact name, but im going to use the butt connections that you crimp then heat. lol...solder is always a chance it can break. they dont even solder wires in avaition repairs for that reason

heat shrink butt connectors are the








http://cdn.sneakhype.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/titties.jpg

walky_talky20
09-04-2014, 06:21 PM
^I would argue that heat shrink butt connectors are indeed NOT fake, as Redline is implying. They are quite real (and spectacular).

GrapeBandit
09-04-2014, 06:34 PM
^hence my reason for me choosing to go that route[up]

chris164935
09-04-2014, 09:44 PM
I've not done this swap myself, do all the ground wires for each coil come soldered to one larger gauge wire to bolt to the valve cover and where ever the other ground connections join up at?

qU/\TTRŲ
09-10-2014, 02:40 PM
so i got my AWP harness in today, $65 shipped new from an Amazon VW dealer[up]
http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt258/m1racing_2009/Casa%20b5/20140910_171428.jpg~original (http://s617.photobucket.com/user/m1racing_2009/media/Casa%20b5/20140910_171428.jpg.html)
http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt258/m1racing_2009/Casa%20b5/20140910_171443.jpg~original (http://s617.photobucket.com/user/m1racing_2009/media/Casa%20b5/20140910_171443.jpg.html)

still waiting for my r8 coils to come, they will be here friday., hoping to tackle this ver the weekend if i have time. i figure while i have the harness here, ill tear it down and start labeling the wires from the respective coilpacks#1-#4. that wire at the Y section in the new harness with the heat shield does not get used, right? should i cut my coilpack wires right there at that Y or should i go back even further?
look like OP cut them at the Y too. sound about right?


http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08133115.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x116/xdewaynex/Audi%20A4/AEB%20to%20AWP%20Coil%20Harness/2011-10-08135614.jpg

qU/\TTRŲ
09-10-2014, 03:40 PM
Op never says how to delete the ICM[confused]
passatworld says take the big brown wire from the AWP harness and connect it to the big brown wire that goes to the ICM. also, passatwaord says theres 3 grounds, but only talk about or show 2(the small brown wire coming out of the AWP harness to the back of the head, and the big brown that goes on the VC in the original ground spot). Whats the 3rd?

there conflicting elements with the black w/purple tracer wires. OP says split them, while passatworld mentions nothing about it. neither of these write-ups are clear in what to do. so what is the right way to do this?
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61-b5-information-base/333953-1998-volkswagen-passat-1-8t-aeb-icm-delete-diy.html

chris164935
09-10-2014, 11:45 PM
The delete is simple. Remove the ICM and it's wiring and throw it in the trash. There are 4 pins from the ECU that go to the ICM, and then the ICM has 5 pins that go to the coils and a ground point. The new harness you will wire directly to the ECU. The pins on the ECU are #70, 71, 77, 78. Which cylinder goes to what, I do not know though. Reference this article for which pins are which cylinder from the ICM: http://wiki.quattroworld.com/index.php/A4.B5.DIY.Ignition.DIYTestPOS Then, Google Images "Audi B5 A4 ICM wiring diagram" to figure out which color wire goes to which pins on the ECU and the ICM.
As for the coils themselves, Pin 1 for each coil is 12v switched power, Pin 2 is a ground, Pin 3 goes to it respective pin in the ECU, and Pin 4 is another ground. For Pin 1, go to the ECU box and find connector T6z (6 point, red connector). Pin 1 of that connector is your power source (this wire also goes to the ECU. Most likely, you will just have to cut the stock wire that went to the original 3-wire coils and solder it to the wire for the new harness, which should be a red/green wire, or at least a wire that has 4 red/green wires merging to it). Pin 2 should be the ground wire that bolts to the ground connection on the chassis under the coolant reservoir (next to the knock sensor connectors and crank position sensor connector). In the Passatworld "DIY", it looks like the guy just bolted it to the valve cover again... Pin 3, see above. Pin 4 should be the ground connection that you bolt to the valve cover.

Hopefully, this post makes sense.

qU/\TTRŲ
09-11-2014, 12:55 AM
^yeah, thats more confusing than either this write-up or the one passatworld. idk how everone has done this following these 2 incomplete write-ups.

chris164935
09-11-2014, 08:52 AM
Alright, so I traced it back for you (pins for the coils are labelled on the connectors):

Cylinder #1
Pin 1 - 12v Switched
Pin 2 - Chassis Ground
Pin 3 - Pin 70 on ECU
Pin 4 - Valve Cover Ground

Cylinder #2
Pin 1 - 12v Switched
Pin 2 - Chassis Ground
Pin 3 - Pin 78 on ECU
Pin 4 - Valve Cover Ground

Cylinder #3
Pin 1 - 12v Switched
Pin 2 - Chassis Ground
Pin 3 - Pin 77 on ECU
Pin 4 - Valve Cover Ground

Cylinder #1
Pin 1 - 12v Switched
Pin 2 - Chassis Ground
Pin 3 - Pin 71 on ECU
Pin 4 - Valve Cover Ground

For Pin 3, find the old wiring at the ECU, pull them out, and install your new harness' wires (in the pictures, it looks like the wires come with terminal ends). Or, trace the wires and solder (or build a new connector) your new harness' wires to the old. For the 12v switched power, on the stock harness, there are 4 wires (black/blue) that are all soldered at one point and then go to the 6 point red connector I referenced in my previous post. Find where they merge at and cut them off, you will solder the new harness' wire to that. For the grounds, one is bolted to the chassis under the coolant expansion tank, one bolts to the valve cover, can't really mess up which is which...

qU/\TTRŲ
09-11-2014, 09:08 AM
Alright, so I traced it back for you (pins for the coils are labelled on the connectors):

Cylinder #1
Pin 1 - 12v Switched
Pin 2 - Chassis Ground
Pin 3 - Pin 70 on ECU
Pin 4 - Valve Cover Ground

Cylinder #2
Pin 1 - 12v Switched
Pin 2 - Chassis Ground
Pin 3 - Pin 78 on ECU
Pin 4 - Valve Cover Ground

Cylinder #3
Pin 1 - 12v Switched
Pin 2 - Chassis Ground
Pin 3 - Pin 77 on ECU
Pin 4 - Valve Cover Ground

Cylinder #1
Pin 1 - 12v Switched
Pin 2 - Chassis Ground
Pin 3 - Pin 71 on ECU
Pin 4 - Valve Cover Ground

For Pin 3, find the old wiring at the ECU, pull them out, and install your new harness' wires (in the pictures, it looks like the wires come with terminal ends). Or, trace the wires and solder (or build a new connector) your new harness' wires to the old. For the 12v switched power, on the stock harness, there are 4 wires (black/blue) that are all soldered at one point and then go to the 6 point red connector I referenced in my previous post. Find where they merge at and cut them off, you will solder the new harness' wire to that. For the grounds, one is bolted to the chassis under the coolant expansion tank, one bolts to the valve cover, can't really mess up which is which...
i apprecite the help, but you are making this more confusing than it already is. maybe because you never did this yourself[confused] everything you are saying, is not mentioned in this write-up nor the one on passatworld. Still dont know how to delete the ICM? i simply bought the awp harness to follow the below chart, not to rip apart the whole wiring harness, repin ecus and such.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g288/TeRRoR999/ICM%20DELETE%20WRITE%20UP/Diagram.jpg

Avant Nate
09-11-2014, 09:23 AM
I don't remember it being that difficult. Take the wires from the ICM and trace them back to the to where they come off the harness behind the head. You just have to cut the sheath and pull the wires. The output from the ICM loops back to the ignition coils maybe 6 inches lower than the back of the head. Its father down than you would expect.

qU/\TTRŲ
09-11-2014, 09:44 AM
I don't remember it being that difficult. Take the wires from the ICM and trace them back to the to where they come off the harness behind the head. You just have to cut the sheath and pull the wires. The output from the ICM loops back to the ignition coils maybe 6 inches lower than the back of the head. Its father down than you would expect.
sooo....does the big brown wire from the new harness get connected to the big brown wire from the ICM? if so, which one?, theres 2 big brown wires in the original harness that lead to the ICM, one goes to the 4pin side of the ICM connector, and the other goes to the 5pin side of the ICM connector.

What gets me is that theres not a DIY for AEB ICM delete and AWP harness upgrade. heres the kicker, everyone has "done it", but nobody knows how "to do it". lol
if i ever get this figured out, ill be sure to make a proper write-up. theres too many ideas and ways to do it being thrown around and this is the only semi write-up on the whole internet. the passatworld and the audigeeks one are both down for some reason[headbang]

Avant Nate
09-11-2014, 12:04 PM
Take the ICM out and throw it in the trash. Remove the wire goes from the ICM to the old ignition coils and through it in the trash. For this you have take the shielding off and trace it back behind the head. Take the wire that feeds the ICM(also inside the sheath) and cut it and butt connector it to your new AWP harness.Your basically taking out about 8 feet of wire and the ICM.

qU/\TTRŲ
09-11-2014, 12:22 PM
Take the wire that feeds the ICM(also inside the sheath) and cut it and butt connector it to your new AWP harness.
. . .and would this wire so happen to be the big brown ground wire? lol. . .you say "wire" to ICM, theres 9 "wires" to the ICM!

its hard to get a straight answer from anyone when it comes to this topic, like its a big secret or some shit. . .i doesnt print money, i promise the secret service wont come knocking on anyones door if the share the secret lol

Avant Nate
09-11-2014, 12:34 PM
I did this a year ago so I dont remember exactly, but it just made sense when I did it. Basically you have all these wires that feed the icm, now just go directly to their respective coils, using the color coding chart in the OP.
Have you opened up the ICM harness, or are you trying to figure it all out before you start?

qU/\TTRŲ
09-11-2014, 12:39 PM
^yea, but op doesnt mention a word about deleting or grounding out the ICM, and the only color coded mention of the ICM in the color coded chart OP posted is brown. maybe OP will chime in when he has a chance.

this is pretty frustrating[headbang][headbang]

A1 A2 German
09-11-2014, 01:25 PM
^


Look again at the chart above: [Harness from ECS Tuning] and [1998 AEB Harness]

The icm is wired between the two from the factory, it's like how an inline fuse would be wired into a wire, wires come in one side and pop out the other.

So locate the bundle of wires that are coming from the back of the head (from the ecu box) to the icm. Take wire cutters, cut the full 100% entire bundle at the icm, pre-icm.

Now grab the ICM, and every wire and connector that travels to the coil packs and throw away everything. The entire harness from the icm to the valve cover is trash, don't worry about it.


Now, you have that bundle of wires that you cut at pre- icm, this is what the ECS harness will connect too. Just about all negatives or all negatives as I recall are nothing but grounds to metal.


One tip: Locate that bundle of wires coming from the back of the head (that originate from the ecu box) that go to the icm. Take a razor, and slice down ~3-4" to open that black shrink wrap up and pull up on the wires. Is there's like a foot of extra wiring that's stuffed in there that you can delete that's bundled in there.

When you cut the bundle of wires at the icm, you'll end up shorting that bundle of wires again as they'll be super long now and only need to travel to the valve cover and not all the way over towards the intake system.

walky_talky20
09-11-2014, 01:52 PM
This is not rocket science. There are 4 wires to each coil: Power, Ground, Signal Ground, and Trigger. The only mildly challenging part about the entire thing is that you must make sure the correct trigger wire ends up at the correct cylinder. And the charts are provided to show that. The rest of the wires are not specific.

Cut it far enough back that you remove all the brittle baked wires, splice neatly so it doesn't look like a 3-year-old did it (optional), and you're good.

qU/\TTRŲ
09-11-2014, 02:17 PM
^
Look again at the chart above: [Harness from ECS Tuning] and [1998 AEB Harness]
The icm is wired between the two from the factory, it's like how an inline fuse would be wired into a wire, wires come in one side and pop out the other.
So locate the bundle of wires that are coming from the back of the head (from the ecu box) to the icm. Take wire cutters, cut the full 100% entire bundle at the icm, pre-icm.
Now grab the ICM, and every wire and connector that travels to the coil packs and throw away everything. The entire harness from the icm to the valve cover is trash, don't worry about it.
Now, you have that bundle of wires that you cut at pre- icm, this is what the ECS harness will connect too. Just about all negatives or all negatives as I recall are nothing but grounds to metal.
One tip: Locate that bundle of wires coming from the back of the head (that originate from the ecu box) that go to the icm. Take a razor, and slice down ~3-4" to open that black shrink wrap up and pull up on the wires. Is there's like a foot of extra wiring that's stuffed in there that you can delete that's bundled in there.
When you cut the bundle of wires at the icm, you'll end up shorting that bundle of wires again as they'll be super long now and only need to travel to the valve cover and not all the way over towards the intake system.
ahh, i think im getting it now. Thanks. the ICM thing is what has been confusing me.

So technically the is nothing to do to the ICM wiring wise(near the ICM), and theres technically no ground for it? the big brown wire that runs to the ICM just gets connected to the big brown wire out of the new AWP harness?

The wires from the ICM plug that you will need to use. Green/White Tracer, Red/Grey Tracer, Yellow/Grey Tracer, Grey/Yellow Tracer along with the thick Brown ICM ground wire.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g288/TeRRoR999/ICM%20DELETE%20WRITE%20UP/Diagram.jpg
sorry guys, cutting/splicing into my harness freaks me out and i think i may have been over-analyzing this stuff here[:|]

chris164935
09-11-2014, 08:46 PM
I don't have to have done this swap to understand a wiring diagram. However, I am quite familiar with wiring for FSI coils as I'm currently working on a wiring harness for my stand-alone engine management.
If cutting/splicing has your worried, then the Passatworld DIY is definitely not for you. Your best bet will be to pull the wiring out from the ECU connector and re-pin the new harness to it (from the pictures I saw, it looks like it already comes with pins at the end of the wiring). Then, just keep the new coilpack harness separate and ziptie it or whatever to your old harness to keep it in place. And, if that seems like too much, you might be stuck with buying an ICM delete kit such as this one: http://www.performancebyie.com/integrated-engineering-coil-conversion-and-icm-delete-kit-for-058-1-8t

qU/\TTRŲ
09-11-2014, 10:08 PM
I don't have to have done this swap to understand a wiring diagram. However, I am quite familiar with wiring for FSI coils as I'm currently working on a wiring harness for my stand-alone engine management.
If cutting/splicing has your worried, then the Passatworld DIY is definitely not for you. Your best bet will be to pull the wiring out from the ECU connector and re-pin the new harness to it (from the pictures I saw, it looks like it already comes with pins at the end of the wiring). Then, just keep the new coilpack harness separate and ziptie it or whatever to your old harness to keep it in place. And, if that seems like too much, you might be stuck with buying an ICM delete kit such as this one: http://www.performancebyie.com/integrated-engineering-coil-conversion-and-icm-delete-kit-for-058-1-8t
I fully understand what has to be done now. the thing that was confusing me was what to do with the ICM since it was barely talked about.

the #1 wires for each coil pack im going to use heat shrink butt connectors from the AWP harness to the pre-exisiting AEB black w/blue tracer wires. I would pin these to the ecu, but they merged together and have to be cut apart like OP said.

the #2 wires are actually one wire. it is the big brown wire from the AWP harness. im going to pin that into the ecu after I follow the original big brown wire from the AEB ICM back to the ecu.

the #3 wires are also going to be pinned into the ecu. going to follow the original Green/White Tracer, Red/Grey Tracer, Yellow/Grey Tracer, Grey/Yellow Tracer wires back to the ecu and pin the #3 wires from the AWP harness into it.

the #4 wire is just the ground to the original ground spot on the valve cover.

the small tan wire coming out of the back of the AWP harness gets grounded to the back of the head, going to use a round terminal heat shrink connector for it.

it only took me staring at the computer all day to figure this out.[headbang] of course with the help of you guys. thanks everyone for being so patient with me.[wrench]

chris164935
09-11-2014, 10:47 PM
#1 pins won't go back to the ECU itself. Follow the black/blue wires from the original harness until you find the spot where they merge; cut the old harness right there and solder your new harness to that. This is the switched 12v power source for all of the coilpacks.
#2 is basically like you said; however, it does not go back to the ECU. This wire will be ground to the CHASSIS. YOU MUST GROUND IT TO THE CHASSIS. Passatworld DIY shows him grounding this to the back of the valve cover. THIS IS WRONG AND HE LATER MENTIONS THAT IT WAS AND WAS THE CAUSE OF HIS MISFIRE PROBLEMS. The ground spot for it is right by the connectors for the 2 knock sensors and crank sensor that mount under the coolant expansion tank. You can either bolt this to the chassis or solder it to the existing wire that used to go to the ICM. Your choice. If you bolt it to the chassis, then the existing ground wire that went to the ICM from the chassis will become useless. No need to bolt it to anything. You can remove it or just leave it if it is integrated into the sheathing of your stock harness.
#3 are the wires that go back to the ECU. AWP harness appears to have different color wires here, so the best I can offer you is to figure out which wire goes to pin #3 of each coil connector by doing a continuity test with a multimeter. Then, reference post #92 where I tell you which pin on the ECU is for which cylinder (should be a much easier and quicker task than following each wire back to the ECU, and you won't have to splice open your stock harness' sheathing).
#4 This is the valve cover ground. I don't think it would even be possible to connect this anywhere else.

qU/\TTRŲ
09-11-2014, 11:01 PM
^yea, you are right about pin #2, it wont go back to the ECU since it is a ground. I will probably just ground it under the coolant tank and get rid of the other ground there, by the 4 terminal rings.

for the #3 pins, the chart above is correct, its for the AWP harness so the color coding is correct. I can trace back the AEB pin #3's because im going to have to splice open the stock AEB harness open anyway, theres no way to snake the #3 pins through it to the ECU.

chris164935
09-11-2014, 11:11 PM
Maybe keep the new AWP coil harness separate? It is already sheathed, so you could get away with zip tying it to the stock harness to keep it from dangling around or whatever... Unless you are going for show car look.

qU/\TTRŲ
09-11-2014, 11:22 PM
Maybe keep the new AWP coil harness separate? It is already sheathed, so you could get away with zip tying it to the stock harness to keep it from dangling around or whatever... Unless you are going for show car look.

not exactly show car look, but I like to keep harnesses to a minimum and tuck/hide whatever I can out of the way. I have heat shrink tubing on the way so its no big deal. I already deleted all the EVAP and PCV crap out of the engine bay for a cleaner look.

most of this AWP harness isnt sheathed now anyway. Half of it was just black electrical tape I tore off to separate/label the wires and to remove the wires and clips that werent being used.
http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt258/m1racing_2009/Casa%20b5/20140912_023922.jpg
http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt258/m1racing_2009/Casa%20b5/20140912_023938.jpg
http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt258/m1racing_2009/Casa%20b5/20140912_024012.jpg

qU/\TTRŲ
09-12-2014, 04:45 AM
does anyone know what the 4 grounds are under the coolant tank? they arent all for the coil packs are they?

gmx
09-12-2014, 05:45 AM
^Wot?

Read the wiring diagrams and study the ECU differences with what you got and what you will be "Retrofitting" and it'll become much clearer.
People do it multiple ways.

The cheesy way:
Splice the icm in & out connections together over the airbox, make some decision with the left over TTL gnd wire. Update the harness on the other end and splice pin 2 & 4 (the gnds) together or apply some other solution with the grounds. Or do it the way I did and what you and all people performing the ICM delete should do below.

The right way:
Pin2 from each coil merged together with the old pin 3 ICM ground. (TTL BACK TO ECU gnd). If you study the diagrams, you will see the newer ECUs (ME7.x) have a gnd pin for each coil. The AEB ME3/5 only has 1 for all 4.
Pin4 goes to the Valve cover.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/373387-Performed-ICM-Delete!-Success!!?p=7594681&viewfull=1#post7594681 FWIW, my misfires were from >2 faulty coils. They sat on the shelf for over a year until I manned up and did the conversion and ended up being DOA. 4 new coils = no misfires till this day.

To do the right way, you splice back at the "y" behind the head. PULL all the wires from the ICM out, it is simply a loop. Wires go beyond the "Y" to the airbox, to the ICM (& N75, MAF, Evap etc), then back through the same harness beyond the "Y"

From the same thread and proof you should do it this way:

Bentley shows the following:
Pin 2 = "Ground Connection -1- in right front wiring harness"
Pin 4 = "Ground Connection, on engine block"

Mitchell shows the following:
Pin 2 = Ground at Left side of engine compartment
Pin 4 = Ground on Engine block

Mitchell (for 2001 Jetta 1.8T, which uses the same 4-pin coils) is more specific:
Pin 4 = Ground on cylinder head

walky_talky20
09-12-2014, 06:58 AM
I remember that post. ;)
I feel that that my follow up post should be posted here as well. It explains why, exactly, there are 2 separate grounds for each coil.


There is a reason they are separate, but most of the time you can get away with ignoring it. Basically there are high-power grounds for the big stuff (fan motors, starter motor, etc), and there are sensor grounds for the precision low-power devices (crank/cam sensors, coolant temp, TPS, etc). The worry is that the ground will get noisy during high power draw. For instance, the main ground line to the engine block is what grounds the starter. If that also supplied your crank sensor with ground, you might run into a problem with a crappy crank sensor signal during cranking. To ensure phantom, impossible-to-diagnose issues like that never happen, the manufacturers keep the grounds separate like that. Some manufacturers decidedly DON'T do this and end up with stupid problems, like this:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/609302-no-start-condition-after-clutch-job.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyDcMjiWaHs&feature=related

Anyway, the coils fit into this mess because they are both. They have a precision, low-power circuit (the built in igniter, aka ICM which uses pins 2 and 3) and they have the high power coil winding in there as well which uses pins 1 and 4. This is why they have 2 grounds that go to 2 different places for seemingly no reason.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

qU/\TTRŲ
09-12-2014, 08:53 AM
well just got my coil packs in from genuineaudiparts. its the first time I ever ordered from them and will probably be the last. nothing but a headache dealing with them from the very beginning. does anyone know if these are remanufactured coil packs? the ones I got are either used or remanufactured. the silver posts on all 4 are scratched to shit, and the bottom that goes over the spark plugs are all out of wack, they arent even round. if they arent used, sure as hell they are returned coils that were at least used for a test fitment. I sent them a message since they dont have a fucking phone # to call. that right there should tell you something about a company[facepalm]

chris164935
09-12-2014, 09:18 AM
I got my coils from: http://www.thevwpartsstore.com/ Cost me $17.57 per coil. Shipping was quick and did not have any issues with communication.

RallyeBourne
09-12-2014, 09:27 AM
Wow. That sucks. I had a fantastic experience. They are loosely associated with Mira Mar Audi in San Diego. Since I live in SD, I messaged and asked if I could simply will call them so I could get them the next day and save the shipping. Well, they don't allow will call, so they expedited my shipping, I got it next morning, and didn't pay any shipping. Oh, and I got a return message within 20 minutes. So the service was top notch for me.

If I recall, the silver posts were slightly scratched, but I could tell they were not installed. One of the boxes was also slightly crushed, but I blame fedex for that, lol.

qU/\TTRŲ
09-12-2014, 09:40 AM
the first issue I had with them was on the initial order. placed my order, got an email confirmation saying it has been processed and would ship that day. a few hours later I get an email saying they canceled my order because the name on the debit card does not match the name on the GAP account, my name. I thought this was ridiculous since the name on the debit card was my fiance's, who lives in the same home aka original shipping address with the same zip code. its not like the card that I used was registered to a total different address in a total different place.

I send them a message and explaining this to them and simply said " just change the shipping name to hers, its going to the same place". they say they cant and I would have to place another order.

place my next order her name, using her debit card again, going to the same address again. get an email confirmation saying the order has been processed and the will ship out next business day. half hour or so goes by and I get another email from them saying my second order wasss now canceled due to insufficient funds. impossible, theres enough money in the bank to probably order 50 sets of 4 coil packs. I message them yet again and say run the card again, theres obviously a mistake, it must have been manually entered into your system wrong. they agree. 20 minutes later I get email confirmation that the order has been processed and the funds taken out. GOOD! then it takes them an additional 2 businesses days to ship them out.

what a frigging hassle it has been dealing with them. now im just waiting on a response to the message I sent them about the coil packs I received today. what a horrible first time experience I say

qU/\TTRŲ
09-12-2014, 01:26 PM
got a call from the guy wbo works there, think he said his name was brian. he swore its manufacturing marks and everything is brand new and that he gets a lot of calls about the coil with the same complaint. he said I have 1yr on them and if anything should happen give send him a message and he will replace them. so im go8ng to run with them.

Avant Nate
09-12-2014, 05:43 PM
You guys are crazy with your repinning the ECU, just cut and solder or connect.

qU/\TTRŲ
09-12-2014, 06:09 PM
You guys are crazy with your repinning the ECU, just cut and solder or connect.
haha you are right. even though it would only be 4 wires to pin into the ECU i probably wont do it. i talk that jive right now, but I bet when the time comes its going to be all heat shrink butt connections lol

chris164935
09-12-2014, 11:01 PM
But why risk a having a possible failure point if you can take an extra 10 minutes and do it right?

qU/\TTRŲ
09-13-2014, 08:34 AM
anyone ever notice that pin#1 is towards the rear of the AEB coils and pin#1 on the R8 coils is towards the front? lol

xdewaynex
09-14-2014, 04:50 PM
I havent had much access to the internet for the last few weeks, and to my surprise I find this thread being bumped. I honestly dont know what all the hassle and fuss is about over this. I clearly stated in the beginning that I ended up getting an AWP harness and not and ATW harness.
AEB to AWP Coil Harness Swap with 2.0 GTI ULEV Coils...Updated 10/8/11 big bold letters, not sure how it was missed. To my knowledge, my write up was not incomplete and to this day is still working 100% on my car.


The Grey and White wires leading to my hand, they will not be used, and will be pulled out along with the ICM and Coil Plugs.

Ive also only got 2 ground locations, the one on towards to the front of the valve cover and the one on the rear.


There is also a small Tan or Brown wire in the AWP harness that needs to be grounded on the back of the valve cover.


I read several different threads for this conversion and the diagram from Passat World was the best thing I found, and I ended up doing the rest myself. Trying to follow different diy's for the same thing can get confusing.

qU/\TTRŲ
09-14-2014, 05:04 PM
^we have gotten it all straightened out.

technically you have 3 grounds, if you had only 2, your car wouldnt start..lol...the 3rd ground is the big brown wire from the AWP harness to the big brown ICM wire(ground).

xdewaynex
09-14-2014, 05:16 PM
The icm ground if Im not mistaken is tied in with the ground wires going to front of the valve cover, hence why I said Ive only got 2 ground locations, not wires. Glad you got it figured out. It sucks not having internet access, and not being able to answer questions. Close to 3yrs now, and I havent had any problems. Only revision Ive done, was done away with the Radio Shack bulky plug and used butt connectors and heat shrink to make it look better.

qU/\TTRŲ
09-14-2014, 05:23 PM
you are right. that brown ICM wire is the one that goes to the VC. derp on my side.

yea, not having internet access sucks, especially this day and age when ppl rely on it so much. im going to do the same, heat shrink butt connectors and heat shrink tubing.

qU/\TTRŲ
09-15-2014, 05:04 PM
did it today since fedex came early. looks factory and you wouldnt even know it was modified.
http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt258/m1racing_2009/Casa%20b5/20140915_184745.jpg (http://s617.photobucket.com/user/m1racing_2009/media/Casa%20b5/20140915_184745.jpg.html)
http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt258/m1racing_2009/Casa%20b5/20140915_184751.jpg (http://s617.photobucket.com/user/m1racing_2009/media/Casa%20b5/20140915_184751.jpg.html)
http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt258/m1racing_2009/Casa%20b5/20140915_184802.jpg (http://s617.photobucket.com/user/m1racing_2009/media/Casa%20b5/20140915_184802.jpg.html)
http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt258/m1racing_2009/Casa%20b5/20140915_184807.jpg (http://s617.photobucket.com/user/m1racing_2009/media/Casa%20b5/20140915_184807.jpg.html)