View Full Version : Should I buy an Audi A4 1.8T Quattro

07-09-2011, 12:10 PM
I saw it in an car auction the manager said it would probably sell for 3k to 4k next week he said he drove it himself and it ran fine and everything (I'm not allowed to drive it) he said it might even be cheaper because one just sold for 2600 and it was in good condition. I don't care about minor problems (I also like fixing things myself with DIY's) you think anything major could be wrong.
It's Manuel and just has small scratches.
Anything I should look for BTW.
It's on bid next Saturday, Going with my Cousin and Dad.

Heres the car auction site


07-09-2011, 12:26 PM
Pretty low mileage. One thing is, you will want to get a timing belt job done on that vehicle as soon as you get it home if it has not been done lately. There was a recall on them, and most people on this forum board won't let ours go past 65k before replacing.

Few things you should know, these cars get expensive to own and maintain. As long as you know that, then I would say go for it. But if it isn't a Quattro, I would not go for it. These cars have their issues, so just be prepared if you do purchase. I have owned my car for roughly 4 years now, and don't plan on letting it go for a very long time. Just know that if you do purchase, you have been warned[cool].

Plow Jockey
07-09-2011, 12:33 PM

07-09-2011, 12:39 PM


07-09-2011, 01:12 PM
Sounds good. Make sure it's a Quattro.

07-09-2011, 01:12 PM
I got alot of money to waste. but not too much you don't think that seriously bad things can happen that may cost thosands that I cant DIY easily.
I also think this car auction place is sketchy. but I did see probably 1 to 2 hundred people there.

07-09-2011, 01:25 PM
2001 is a good year to have. That is the last year of the B5, so they usually have more bells and whistles. Manual is good, they have very few transmission issues with those. You should probably factor in dumping at least $1000 in maintenance items within the first year. Just for stuff that wasn't taken care of by the previous owner. T-belt, control arms, brakes, etc. That way it won't catch you off guard. You can pretty much double that if it needs a clutch, but at such low miles that is unlikely.

You want to make sure the engine runs nice and quiet and there isn't any signs of serious accident (paint work, body panels misaligned, badges put on incorrectly, etc). One thing that people sometimes overlook is if the car has a sunroof or not. If that is something you really want, make sure it has one. It was an option to "delete" the sunroof. That is something you really can't change later on.

07-09-2011, 01:26 PM
I got alot of money to waste. but not too much you don't think that seriously bad things can happen that may cost thosands that I cant DIY easily.
I also think this car auction place is sketchy. but I did see probably 1 to 2 hundred people there.

A timing belt job actually really isn't too hard. The biggest problem is just making sure you have all the correct tools or it can drag on and take a long time. How much experience do you have with cars?

07-09-2011, 02:00 PM
What's the problem if its a FWD and not Quattro. My 99.5 A4 is fwd and I love it..don't have to work about an extra drivetrain + 2 more axles lol.

07-09-2011, 02:12 PM
What's the problem if its a FWD and not Quattro. My 99.5 A4 is fwd and I love it..don't have to work about an extra drivetrain + 2 more axles lol.

It is not a problem, just a preference. Some people need to get around in the snow and some don't. There is nothing wrong with a FWD.

07-09-2011, 02:37 PM
If it were up to me I'd have it RWD or at least like a 80/20 rear v front. Everything I've owned has been RWD, I'm just used to it.

07-09-2011, 02:47 PM
^Take out the center diff and weld it up. Not sure what else needs to be done, but this is what people do. And to make it Quattro again, just replace the center diff.

07-09-2011, 02:50 PM
Interesting. I'm keeping it Quattro for now, I live in a mighty snowy area. I just wish the car had more oversteer.

07-09-2011, 03:41 PM
So thats what quattro meant I was guessing that. (I can't drift then right???)
I get some really bad snow sometimes too...
Don't know a whole lot about cars but I can learn.
And I guess $1000 is not so bad. I'm just not hoping to spend 3000 for random crap.
But should I get anything else done after I buy it after a timing belt job.[wrench]
Should I use synthetic oil and premium Gas.
I drive alot BTW 230 miles a week for just work.
Thanks for all the help btw

Btw do they come with HID's

07-09-2011, 03:43 PM
Interesting. I'm keeping it Quattro for now, I live in a mighty snowy area. I just wish the car had more oversteer.

center diff mod?

07-09-2011, 03:46 PM
yes to synthetic yes to premium. ive had my car 2 and a half years and have dumped 10k into it haha 2500 of that was becuse i wrecked it but youll get hooked. these cars are good at getting you addicted

07-09-2011, 03:50 PM
Yeah I can't wait it's killing me waiting for it.
It's going to replace my g#y burgundy mercury sable.
btw how do I find the vin number from the outside me and my friend couldn't find it.
Need to check Carfax just in case

07-09-2011, 04:16 PM
Vin should be right on the bottom right corner of windsheild, when looking from front. And since it is an AWM (2001), you will want to replace your ignition coils with Hitachi E bolt down units. I blew 4 ignition coils in a matter of months, and these Hitachi E coils have been nothing but problem free for 3 years now. But you will learn what does and what does not need tending to,on your vehicle. And just fix what needs fixing. And always use full synthetic motor oil.

Interesting. I'm keeping it Quattro for now, I live in a mighty snowy area. I just wish the car had more oversteer.

As mentioend above, there is the 4:1 diff mod. Companies sell them like that already for a pretty penny, or you can do it yourself with special made washers. It changes the bias ratio from 2:1 to 4:1. Basically, will shift more power to the wheels in the rear when hitting corners. I have these washers (not installed), and a guy is selling them on VW Vortex foir $55 shipped. A guy on this forum board made a write up on installation.


07-10-2011, 10:02 AM
Will defiantly do that I want this car to last for a long time.

07-10-2011, 11:44 AM
So I was talking to this one guy who's dad owns gas stations or something and he was saying I'd probley end up spending $10,000 in 4 years do you think that's really possible.

07-10-2011, 11:47 AM
No. If you like fixing things yourself, I don't see how you could you rack up those kind of damages unless you changed the engine very other year.

07-10-2011, 01:24 PM
So I was talking to this one guy who's dad owns gas stations or something and he was saying I'd probley end up spending $10,000 in 4 years do you think that's really possible.

Not unless you plan to heavily mod your vehicle. But expect anywhere from $300-$2,500 per year on maintenance (if you spend $2,500 a year on fixing your car, you got a problem. but you can get hit with a heavy duty issue, like broken steering rack and some other bullcrap accompanied with it), depending on how bad the PO treated the car and how good/bad you will treat it. You can't treat these cars like a Honda and expect it to last. Preventative maintenance is key. I probably average a yearly cost of $150-$500 on maintenance (this includes fluids like motor oil, brake fluid, power steeing fluid, gaskets, little odds and ends, etc). I actually need to replace my tie rods. May do that tommorow ($55 shipped for both sides, and I do my own work).

07-10-2011, 01:56 PM
Only that much if you have a dealership do everything. I have to agree around 500 a year if you do everything yourself. Unless you do get hooked like the rest of us... Then 10k can go very quick but the guys that spend that much usually come out of it with~500hp. There is something dodgy about buying a car without driving it though. Try to get a vag com on it and pull any codes. Check the oil and water for stuf that shouldn't be in there check the compression and bounce up and down on The corners and check for noises.

07-10-2011, 03:43 PM
I'm calling for the vin number tommarow they were closed today...
I am defiantly will mod it at least a little. (got any tutorial links?)
Yeah I'm gonna do alot by myself.
Btw what synthetic oil should I use Someone told me to use Mobil 1
They basically drive it out for 2 minutes then people come up to the drivers and ask questions and they don't really know that much then its up for bids.
I heard you can also fix small scratches with touchup paint

Is this a vag com(link below) don't think they'd let me use it but you can basically see stuffs wrong with it.

http://www.bestofferbuy.com/VAG-COM-HEX-USB-CAN-Vehicle-Bus-Cable-with-Software-CD-p-29355.html?currency=USD&utm_source=gbase&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=gbase_usa&utm_content=VehiclesAndParts%253EAutomotiveParts%2 53EAutomotiveWindowParts%253EAutomotiveWindowAndWi ndshiel

07-10-2011, 03:57 PM
That link is just the cable. Vag Com is a Ross Tech software diagnosis program. This link (http://www.ross-tech.com/) is the official Vag Com website. The link you posted is a generic cable that can be used, but you would first need to download the software from the website I posted a link to. The software is free to doanload and use, but you will be limited to much of the program's features unless you purchase the license key for $100. Then, you will have full access to Vag Com using the cable you posted a link for.

Another, and better option would be to purchase an Authentic Ross Tech Vag Com Cable. It has the license key built into the cable, so all you would need to do is simply download the software and you should be set. I have a laptop with Ross Tech's old program (I think version 704) and ebay cable with license key for the Vag Com program. Picked it up in the classified section here years ago for $500. Thought it a good deal, because it was basically a Toshiba laptop with full Vag Com on it. I want to actually sell it, get one of those mini laptops, and an authentic cable. If you want the authentic cable, they can be found all the time in the classified section or ebay from people selling them because they no longer need it (perfect example (http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=55778&title=genuine-ross-tech-kii-usb-vag-com-for-sale&cat=12)).

As for which motor oil to use, it is all about preferance. I use Amsoil, but it's expensive oil. I only drive like 7k-10k a year, so I don't mind. If I drove more mileage and had to change my motor oil more often, then I would look for a more cost effecient alternative. But people seem to love Shell Rotella T6, and can be purchased at Walmart for $30 per 5 quart jug. Just be sure to use a quality filter (I suggest the larger Mann filters).

07-10-2011, 04:16 PM
I thought synthetic oil was $15 per quart.
Also I can drive 9k miles before an oil change right. I drive alot.
I will deff buy one if I get the car I'm pretty determined to get an Audi.

07-10-2011, 04:42 PM
Most people use Mobile 1 0W-40, Castrol Syntec 0W-30 [German Castrol], Rotella T6 5W-40, and a lot of other brands that may not be as easy to get [Motul, Amsoil, etc].

The first three oil listed are relatively cheap. Autozone and other car parts stores usually have them on sale [$35-45 with filter].

07-10-2011, 04:45 PM
Different oils have different prices, but $15/quart is rather outrageous. I use expensive oil, and cost $10.xx/quart of both kinds I use (even less as a preferred customer).

07-11-2011, 07:15 AM
I use castrol syntec 5w-40. I believe thats the factory fill stuff. 8.xx/quart at autozone/advance etc. As for 9000 miles... I don't think so. I think the oil change interval is 7500m (2.8), but ive read at 5000m, take a sample and send it to one of those oil analyzation labs. They'll tell you if it's okay to keep using it for another 2,500m or more possibly.

07-12-2011, 11:35 AM
I really want this car but my dad is starting to sound like he wont let me can you guys give me some advantages of buying it.
He hates its manuel and high maintainence even though I'm paying for it.

07-12-2011, 11:41 AM
Getting a B5 A4 in auto poses the potential of tranny issues. The manual transmissions on these cars are built really strong. If you are dead set on this car, get it in manual with Quattro drivetrain. It has a base horse power of 170hp. That isn't a lot of power, and is actually rather slow. Depending on your driving habits, you have more probability of getting into trouble in a 200+bhp automatic vs this vehicle.

Any car is dangerous, whetehrr it is an auto or manual tranmission. It would really depend on the driver, and how responsible or irresponsible of a person that individual is. I was in 2 previous accidents, both my fault. 1 was a 93 Honda Accord when I was 17 and a Toyota Camry when I was maybe 23 (28 now). It literally took me 2 accidents to wisen up. I still drive agressivly (NY driver), but also very very defensively. Those were the skills I was lacking before.

To say there is a small chance you won't crash would be me simply lying. Simply because, you are a male and this is your first vehicle. That alone creates the scenerio. Does not matter what car it is or drivetrain it has. But having less horsepower (like that of our vehicle) does assist it making it less likely to happen.

This is not me trying to make a case for you to bring to your father. This is me simply stating my honest opinion. So with that being said, I once again warn you. Please know what you are getting into if you purchase this car. No need to show off going fast in an Audi. There are better looking and faster cars on the road that this vehicle, with a driver behind the wheel that has experience. And def be aware of maintenance. They need a lot of attention, but are a blast to drive[drive].

07-12-2011, 11:52 AM
Manual is an advantage. I've had mine for a year and have only spent a total of 200 dollars in non-routine maintenance for a troublesome miss-fire issue. (tb/water-pump was done as part of the purchase deal) It's not that high maintenance. You can find all the trouble-shooting help you need for any situation for free from this forum. Once you take care of the must-do things like tb water pump etc, you shouldn't have many issues. Any car will throw unexpected things at you. If you keep up with all the routine maintenance at the right intervals then it is no biggie. Seerlah is correct about the coils though. They do kinda suck. 2001 is the best year for the b5 and and 3-4k is a great price. You will not spend 10,000 in 4 years (not on maintenance). That's crazy talk. If you spend 10k in 4 years, then i would expect you to have one bad-ass a4, and i will be jealous. Hopefully it's quattro because the handling characteristics are enjoyable in my opinion.

07-12-2011, 11:52 AM
Just make sure you have a job lol. You're gonna want to throw money at it.

07-14-2011, 10:22 PM
I've been driving a car for a couple monthsover 1 year no accidents or tickets. That's probably gonna change, hopefully only the ticket part. But I drive really defensively out of fear of what my dad would do If i got in a accident.
But yeah I make enough money I'm a security officer. I am hoping to mod it allot.
BTW what is the best site to buy car parts.
But I'll save the fixxing stuff after I get the car. Don't wanna ask all these questions and then I don't get it. (I will probably be depressed if I don't)

07-16-2011, 09:36 AM
I like to look in forum classifieds for parts first. But I also like ecstuning.com. they have a lot of oem stuff and they have the same part by multiple manufacturers so you can shop based on what you can afford at the moment. They also have some aftermarket stuff by apr like chip tuning. But i only use it for the oem stuff.

08-04-2011, 09:10 PM
So here's an update I lost the bid and my parents started saying oh it's a bad car and high maintenance and everyone doesn't recommend buying the car and they won't buy it for me. (I pay them back over a period of time) So I've been depressed for awhile. But after much arguing my parents decided it's fine the will buy it for me. (I was gonna save money on my own but that would take forever). So i'm back out looking for A4's and TT's...

08-04-2011, 09:17 PM
As long as you are willing to pick up a wrench, owning these vehicles are not nearly as bad as it would be for someone who didn't. Good luck with your hunt. All German automobiles have issues...all of them. But they are incredibly fun to drive and are rather easy on the eyes.

08-05-2011, 07:44 AM
Yes, if you're into love hate relationships. When its running you'll love driving it and modding it. When its broketed you'll hate that you have an audi. Find a good mechanic and learn to get your hands dirty. The guys on this forum are very helpful and you'll need to do a little research every now and then.

08-05-2011, 08:06 AM
I been to that auction before lol

08-05-2011, 06:47 PM
I found a blue 2000 Audi tt with only 86000 miles on it for 7300 with the processing fee. 1.8t fwd
Does that sound good body looks well kept btw
Also a 2002 Audi tt 1.8t quatrro with 160000 miles on it for 6300.
First one has financing and parents have good credit.
Btw Colombian what do.you think about that place.
And I work at silverspring btw in the discovery building.

08-05-2011, 10:41 PM
If getting an Audi, it must be Quattro. Otherwise, get a VW. It's cheaper, ligher, and mods stay the same.