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G-low
04-03-2005, 03:40 PM
Chassis Type: 8D - Audi A4 B5
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,25,35,45,55,56

Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8D0 907 557 P
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT MOTR HS D00
Coding: 06201
Shop #: WSC 06335
15 Faults Found:
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
16686 - Cyl.2 Misfire Detected
16685 - Cyl.1 Misfire Detected
17645 - Cyl.1-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ.
17646 - Cyl.2-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ.
17647 - Cyl.2-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ.
17648 - Cyl.4-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ.
16501 - Engine Coolant Temp.Circ Low Input
17746 - Camshaft Pos.Sensor,Bank1 Open Circ./Short to B+
16688 - Cyl.4 Misfire Detected
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
16688 - Cyl.4 Misfire Detected
17734 - Cyl.2-Knock Contr. Limit Attained
17736 - Cyl.4-Knock Contr. Limit Attained
Readiness: 0000 0000

the thing is i just put my head back on because i broke a valve. everything should be running tip top. im quite sure i put it back together correctly ( i doubt it would be running right now and or drivable if i f'ed it up) but i dont understand what could be causeing all this to happen. the car will run and idle pretty smoothly and i can drive it normaly no problem only when you get on it it hesitates and doesnt really wanna get up and go

also i have the downloaded version of the vag software and clearing codes for some reason doesnt allways work can anyone tell me how they go about doing it? after you run the scan do you just hit the "clear results" button and leave it at that?

derek2079
04-03-2005, 03:43 PM
clear the codes drive it around and see which ones come back

G-low
04-03-2005, 03:50 PM
yeah i try and clear the codes then turn the car off and on again there is still a cel i dont understand why the codes wont clear im trying to figure that out also

greengravy
04-03-2005, 04:23 PM
sometimes it takes a a little bit for them to go away, drive your car for a little bit here and there, pull over, turn it off, let it sit, get back in, drive a little more, repeat a few more times and all should be good, or at least you will know which ones you still have

cbass
01-02-2006, 07:46 PM
G-low, did you ever get this figured out??

My car is throwing a bunch of the same codes. They just came out of the blue today, and when I clear them, they just come back and the car dies.

Here's a list of the codes I got. As you can see, some of them are the same ones.

7 Faults Found:
17645 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30): Open Circuit
P1237 - 35-00 - -
17646 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31): Open Circuit
P1238 - 35-00 - -
17647 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32): Open Circuit
P1239 - 35-00 - -
17648 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33): Open Circuit
P1240 - 35-00 - -
17833 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Short to Ground
P1425 - 35-00 - -
17955 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Short to Ground
P1547 - 35-00 - -
17880 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Short to Ground
P1472 - 35-00 - -


I also just tried doing an output test on all of these parts and all of them worked correctly. I am completely stumped. Any ideas??!! Anybody?? McFly??

G-low
01-03-2006, 03:29 PM
i think they were just stored from when i broke a valve. i cleared them and they didnt come back but i did replace my n75

seems like you have a ground issue somewhere

cbass
01-03-2006, 05:47 PM
ok, that's lucky for you but not so lucky for me, haha.

I definately think it's a wiring issue, but I don't know how to fix it. So here's a bit of additional info...

I installed an ipod/mp3 adapter in my car and spliced the power into one of the lines under the dash on the left hand side near the door. I did an in-line splice thinking that it wouldn't affect the flow of the rest of the original line. It worked fine for a week and then yesterday was when it died. So last night I tried taking out the splice to see if that would fix it. It didn't I then noticed that where the splice was, there were some frayed strands of the wire inside the wire so I used a butt splice to fix that, but the problem still happened. I still kept getting the same codes after driving it for about a mile.

My thought is this... that because the wire is not fully in- tact (i.e. some of the strands inside were cut) that it can't flow as many amps as it used to and because it can't flow as many amps, the power in the line is too low which is causing it to throw the codes. Does that sound feasible to anybody with electrical experience?? If that does sound feasible, how could I go about fixing it and making sure that enough amps flow through my patch job again??

Any help is appreciated!

turbojunkie
01-03-2006, 06:16 PM
Originally posted by cbass

how could I go about fixing it and making sure that enough amps flow through my patch job again??




Try soldering the connection instead of using a butt connector......

4ingDrive
01-03-2006, 08:06 PM
I dont know what wire you tapped into under the dash but it'd be unlikely that it would cause your problem. Sounds like a bad/open ground somewhere. If you had severed your ignition lead to the 75x terminal you'd have the injector issues and a whole lot more. I don't have my wiring diagrams in front of me so sorry I'm not a whole lot of help right now.

G-low
01-03-2006, 09:00 PM
those few pieces of wire wouldnt cause a problem

cbass
01-04-2006, 09:16 AM
I'll try soldering the connection this afternoon. Hopefully that will work.

I have some new information though that I'll post up in case it helps. After a search of various forums, I found that some of these same codes can be due to the fuel pump relay, so I followed the procedure in the Bentley manual and checked everything on the fuel pump relay with a multimeter and VAG-COM. Everything checked out fine except for the right-hand contact of the #29 fuse, there was no voltage to it. So, that helps narrow it down to somewhere between the 30 terminal and the #29 fuse. (not much help because the line I spliced into is coming off the 30 terminal). So, back to square one pretty much.

I then tried unplugging the line I spliced into completely from terminal 30. With it completely disconnected, I started the car, not expecting it to start. It fired right up and ran fine for a while and then died with the same exact symptoms from before. Now, why the heck would everything on the car run fine with that whole entire wire unplugged?? Again, all this does in my mind is confirm that the problem is in that line though. I'll post an update if the soldering helps out.

mike-2ptzero
01-04-2006, 10:02 AM
All those codes point at a blown fuse. Only way to find it is to either check all of them with a meter while the car is running or use the meter to check them to see if they are good by using the continuity test on the meter.

cbass
01-04-2006, 04:06 PM
I tried soldering the connection, but still got the same behavior. No luck there.

Mike, thanks for that info. I tried getting a voltage reading on fuse #29, and I got a good voltage reading on one terminal of the fuse, but not the other. That makes me think that the problem lies somewhere between that terminal of the fuse and terminal 30 where the power comes from. Now, how the heck would I go about finding the problem between those two points??

Mike, Lastly, could you explain the continuity test to me? Is it an option on the multimeter? I'll go read the little instruction thing to the multimeter right now.

Thanks.

mike-2ptzero
01-04-2006, 04:13 PM
Originally posted by cbass
I tried soldering the connection, but still got the same behavior. No luck there.

Mike, thanks for that info. I tried getting a voltage reading on fuse #29, and I got a good voltage reading on one terminal of the fuse, but not the other. That makes me think that the problem lies somewhere between that terminal of the fuse and terminal 30 where the power comes from. Now, how the heck would I go about finding the problem between those two points??

Mike, Lastly, could you explain the continuity test to me? Is it an option on the multimeter? I'll go read the little instruction thing to the multimeter right now.

Thanks.

Well if your getting power on 1 side of the fuse and not the other, this just means the fuse is blown since the power is no longer flowing thru the fuse.

All meters should have this test. When you touch the red and black leads together you should get a tone. This tells you that the loop is good. If you toch both sides of a fuse and dont get a tone, then the fuse is bad.

cbass
01-04-2006, 07:23 PM
I'm sorry, I was a little confusing when I described that. When I said fuse terminal, I meant the terminal in the fuse slot on the car, not the fuse itself. The fuse itself didn't blow, it's still good. I even swapped it with a new one just to make sure.

So, the place that didn't have a voltage reading was when I put one lead of my multimeter in the fuse slot on the left terminal of that particular fuse slot and touched the other side to ground and then cycled the fuel pump via a output test with my VAG-COM. I heard the fuel pump relay click (which it's supposed to do) but there was not voltage reading on the voltmeter.

Hope that makes it easier to understand what I did.

cbass
01-05-2006, 12:24 PM
Well, I finally took it into the shop. After trying to solder it last night and that not working either, I decided I had done all that I could. While I was there, we tried swapping ECU's just to rule out a bad ECU. It wasn't the ECU. So now I'm looking at a big labor bill while they rip into it to try and find the wire that's causing the problem. OUCH.

boostedfun
01-05-2006, 12:37 PM
Originally posted by G-low
those few pieces of wire wouldnt cause a problem

Where in CT are you?

G-low
01-06-2006, 01:09 PM
monroe and yourself?

cbass
01-07-2006, 09:33 AM
OK, took it to the shop and told them I thought it was the fuel pump relay, but that it wasn't giving the exact symptoms of a bad fuel pump relay, but that it was close. We tried swapping the ECU with a known good one just to rule that out and it wasn't that. Then I had to go, so I left it and they were going to try a new Fuel pump relay. They tried that and it didn't fix the problem. Come to find out, it was a bad fuel pump relay connection AS WELL as a bad FPR. They fixed the connection and after 2 hours of labor and a $35 FP relay it was working as good as new. What a headache. I HATE ELECTRICAL STUFF.

mike-2ptzero
01-07-2006, 09:46 AM
Originally posted by cbass
OK, took it to the shop and told them I thought it was the fuel pump relay, but that it wasn't giving the exact symptoms of a bad fuel pump relay, but that it was close. We tried swapping the ECU with a known good one just to rule that out and it wasn't that. Then I had to go, so I left it and they were going to try a new Fuel pump relay. They tried that and it didn't fix the problem. Come to find out, it was a bad fuel pump relay connection AS WELL as a bad FPR. They fixed the connection and after 2 hours of labor and a $35 FP relay it was working as good as new. What a headache. I HATE ELECTRICAL STUFF.

when you say FPR, do you mean Fuel Pump Relay or an actualy Fuel Pump Regulator? My guess is that you just meant the relay.

cbass
01-07-2006, 01:08 PM
sorry, bad use of an acronym. I was just sick of typing "Fuel pump relay" over and over again, lol. This is NOT the regulator, I'm talking only about the relay here. Thanks for asking for the clarification Mike.