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anmagro
05-28-2011, 12:31 PM
Does anyone have a write up of how to do this? I have only seen it mentioned a few times, never acutally seen or read about it being done. Picks? [confused]

- Ant

oldskoolaudi
05-28-2011, 01:34 PM
Does anyone have a write up of how to do this? I have only seen it mentioned a few times, never acutally seen or read about it being done. Picks? [confused]

- Ant
I have the same exact car as you and I could never find one. I relocated it to the trunk and it was cake and I'm no mechanic. As long as you do a good jog in splicing your positive together with new longer new positive all it is is tucking some wire and fastening the box down(jus be sure not to drill through your gas tank) Just once you relocate it, don't freak out if your car runs like crap for an hour or two. I guess it takes a while for the comp to get use to a slightly weaker voltage or something like that.

anmagro
05-28-2011, 02:06 PM
I guess it takes a while for the comp to get use to a slightly weaker voltage or something like that.

Does this hurt the performance of the car?

dowsett6
05-28-2011, 02:20 PM
Does this hurt the performance of the car?

maybe if you ran 8awg or something. if moving your battery to your trunk you should be using atleast 4awg. I ran 0awg from the alternator to a 3 in 1 connector where the battery used to sit. the stock fuse panel wire to the 2nd hole in the 3 in 1 connector, and the last hole was 0awg all the way back to the battery.

FNK
05-28-2011, 02:30 PM
Don't forget to place two pole (+ -) in your current battery location in case you need to be boosted.
Just saying as you need battery to run the central locking pump and that my rear lock is fubar.

In that case It would be a PITA to get access to my battery!

anmagro
05-28-2011, 02:31 PM
maybe if you ran 8awg or something. if moving your battery to your trunk you should be using atleast 4awg. I ran 0awg from the alternator to a 3 in 1 connector where the battery used to sit. the stock fuse panel wire to the 2nd hole in the 3 in 1 connector, and the last hole was 0awg all the way back to the battery.

do u have a pick of said 3 way connector? how exactly did u route the wires? My alternator is next to my oil pan.

M-Hood
05-28-2011, 03:29 PM
Just use a battery location kit which will include a 2 gauge wire.

Simple way of doing it is to also buy a large gauge power distribution block and mount it to the fake fire wall near the stock battery spot. Then you can connect the OEM cable that went from the starter to the stock battery spot and the new 2 gauge wire coming from the battery in the trunk. Just ground the battery in the truck near the battery.

I used a Rockford distribution block on my car when I relocated the battery to the trunk. Went with a relocation kit from Summit Racing.

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/public/5IGBkvrG1_ISo3ATH0FdTT3urIFZgvG1HabIW5gqMo6HN9QYK_ 1l3uSXIkYu1wY6-jsKho_8DYOG0YrYA_V0FDbQP3WgEk_Cg5SO2w1PpKdOB8SO6rA 59BHk0XC_JwZRLfqmC5f12RBXNl1HnYG-JX8cky35K2ly5GiXem2YnvuoNzyTNOVDTdCAuuAX1AU3DJx51p 8


Don't forget to place two pole (+ -) in your current battery location in case you need to be boosted.
Just saying as you need battery to run the central locking pump and that my rear lock is fubar.

In that case It would be a PITA to get access to my battery!

Now why in the world would he need to put a ground wire in the stock battery location when the whole car is the ground for the battery? LOL. Come on everyone that drives a car should know that.

As for the truck, pretty sure you can still open the truck even if there is no power to the car.

FNK
05-28-2011, 04:19 PM
Now why in the world would he need to put a ground wire in the stock battery location when the whole car is the ground for the battery? LOL. Come on everyone that drives a car should know that.
As for the truck, pretty sure you can still open the truck even if there is no power to the car.

Well my key wont open my trunk.
Also I have an electrical issue that deplete the battery if the car sit for 2 weeks. My father Volvo S60R battery is located in the trunk from factory (not sure about the other Volvos) and the terminal are cleverly placed in the engine bay in case of a dead battery. I find this quite practical.

M-Hood
05-28-2011, 04:25 PM
You would just need 1 post for the Postive and then you just place the ground jump cable on a good metal surface. Only time you really see people use both a positive and negative post is when they place them outside the car, you see this all the time on race cars so they can hook up a battery charger without having to access the battery directly.

BTW the battery issue you have is pretty common on the B5 cars, exactly why I always turn my battery switch off when my car is sitting. With the switch off my race battery can hold enough charge to start the car on the first try even if the car has been sitting for 18 months. If the battery switch is left on the battery will pretty much be 100% dead in less then 2 weeks.

FNK
05-28-2011, 05:19 PM
BTW the battery issue you have is pretty common on the B5 cars, exactly why I always turn my battery switch off when my car is sitting. With the switch off my race battery can hold enough charge to start the car on the first try even if the car has been sitting for 18 months. If the battery switch is left on the battery will pretty much be 100% dead in less then 2 weeks.

Eh Is there a solution? I don't think the alarm lights need that much power. My next step will be a seeking mission with a multimeter tool to find the culprit.

@anmagro; Sorry for the partial thread hijack!

anmagro
05-28-2011, 06:23 PM
Mike,

Like this one? .... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1200A/

Also, the 3 way that u have posted is really only connecting the relocated trunk battery cable to the OEM starter cable, so can i do without the 3 way and just connect the 2 ends with a single bolt? And then mount said bolt to the second firewall with a heavy duty plastic clip or alike?

Also, how did u route your cables threw the cabin?

anmagro
05-28-2011, 06:23 PM
Sorry for the partial thread hijack!

Not at all!

M-Hood
05-28-2011, 09:50 PM
Mike,

Like this one? .... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1200A/

Also, the 3 way that u have posted is really only connecting the relocated trunk battery cable to the OEM starter cable, so can i do without the 3 way and just connect the 2 ends with a single bolt? And then mount said bolt to the second firewall with a heavy duty plastic clip or alike?

Also, how did u route your cables threw the cabin?

Yeah you can use that battery box. Just make sure your battery will fit into the box you order. I went with the Taylor metal box, but when I charge the battery I have to end up covering the metal box so the positive cable doesn't ground out on the box. I still need to do a charging post setup so I dont have to go directly to the battery to charge it.

This is the kit I used http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-48101/

You could but then you would need to make sure that the bolt in no way was touching the the metal it was bolted down to. This is why it is just easier to use the power block since it has a plastic cover that gets bolt down.


I went thru the ECU box since I no longer have a stock ECU in there.

anmagro
05-29-2011, 08:36 AM
Yeah you can use that battery box. Just make sure your battery will fit into the box you order. I went with the Taylor metal box, but when I charge the battery I have to end up covering the metal box so the positive cable doesn't ground out on the box. I still need to do a charging post setup so I dont have to go directly to the battery to charge it.

This is the kit I used http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-48101/

You could but then you would need to make sure that the bolt in no way was touching the the metal it was bolted down to. This is why it is just easier to use the power block since it has a plastic cover that gets bolt down.


I went thru the ECU box since I no longer have a stock ECU in there.

Hmm, i still have my stock ECU location. Ill have to find another way, i really hope i dont have to take apart any part of the dash. This is the entire thing i am trying to avoid because i have never taken apart the dash before.

I guess if i cant find a way to attach my bolt idea to the second firewall using only plastic ill pick up a three way. What is the danger of accidently attaching it with metal touching? A dead batt? Excuse my lacking. If anything...those 3 ways are what...like 20 bucks at an audio shop?

M-Hood
05-29-2011, 01:02 PM
When you touch the positive cable to metal while the battery is grounded you will get sparks, just think of what it looks like to weld. lol

anmagro
05-29-2011, 02:46 PM
When you touch the positive cable to metal while the battery is grounded you will get sparks, just think of what it looks like to weld. lol

I get it. Lol, im thinking things half way threw as i sit here and post as i do accounting HW.

This seems like something i can do in the college parking lot or at least somewhere around here. I will update again once i find a 3 way and find a place to route it threw the cabin. I can always route the cable now and connect everything up later.

mtroxel
05-29-2011, 04:31 PM
Also I have an electrical issue that deplete the battery if the car sit for 2 weeks.



BTW the battery issue you have is pretty common on the B5 cars...

It's not just B5's, most cars won't hold a charge for 2 weeks. The alarm system, the remote key system, and the radio take a little all the time. Even without those, a batter will discharge all by itself.

anmagro
05-29-2011, 04:44 PM
It's not just B5's, most cars won't hold a charge for 2 weeks. The alarm system, the remote key system, and the radio take a little all the time. Even without those, a batter will discharge all by itself.

mtroxel, do you have any tips on how to route my new wire from the engine bay into the cabin considering you have a 2.8 as well?

mtroxel
05-29-2011, 05:30 PM
No. It's not a project I've ever done.

anmagro
06-13-2011, 04:55 PM
Update:

I found that Autozone has 2gauge wire for $1.88 per foot. That comes to $28.20 for 15feet. (which is my rough guess for how much i will need, i will measure tm)

Clamps are $4.34 for 2.

Other than that i just need the box which im prob going to get from my grand father.

Still trying to get a moch wire threw the fire wall, i think im going to pick up the wire from Autozone tm. If not, im going to go with Mike hoods Summit racing kit.

mysman
06-13-2011, 07:12 PM
In Arizona it's no problem to run a motorcycle battery, about 11lbs, I think:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a393/mysman/Odyssey_05_11_05001.jpg

That one lasted about 6 years, now I'm running a Deka ETX20:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/280551522974?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y

same as the Braille. A lot easier than trunk relocation.

anmagro
06-13-2011, 09:15 PM
In Arizona it's no problem to run a motorcycle battery, about 11lbs, I think:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a393/mysman/Odyssey_05_11_05001.jpg

That one lasted about 6 years, now I'm running a Deka ETX20:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/280551522974?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y

same as the Braille. A lot easier than trunk relocation.

wow, how does that not go dead? do you drive the car everyday? i would have to be able to leave my car sit for a week on end at a time.

M-Hood
06-13-2011, 10:12 PM
That small of a battery is fine when running it in the stock location, it isn't going to last very long being relocated to the truck. Thats why when I relocated mine to the truck I upgraded from my Odyssey 680 I had in the stock location to the Odyssey 925.

SpeedWorksAuto
06-14-2011, 12:29 AM
I bought about 20 feet of red and black 2 gauge cable off of ebay for stupid cheap.

When I moved my battery to the trunk, I ran a cable from the starter through a random grommet in the firewall on the drivers side. I can take a look tomorrow. But I believe there are tons of extra unused grommets on the firewall. Then again, I possibly ran it through the ecm box. I run a stock ecm in the stock location. Again I will have to check to be 100%. Under the dash is a junction box where the power cable goes to, or where the stock one goes to. I pulled the stock wire out, ran a wire from the starter to that post under the dash, and then on the same post I ran a cable to the trunk for the battery. The post I am talking about is on the power distribution block under the dash(dunno if thats what it is called). It was pretty easy and straight forward. Just follow the cable from the battery to under the dash and you will see what I am talking about.

A1 A2 German
06-14-2011, 01:15 AM
Hello, I think you contacted me on a relocate.

I only have a sec to chime in......

-No less then 4 Gauge cable
-Measure length of car from starter to corner of trunk you're going to put battery and then, add 4' of length (all the corners eat that up)
-Home Depot: Has Oil resistant, heat resistant, full copper cable....that's what I've done the past ~5 cars in.
-No more then a foot off the battery (positive side) install a 100 amp circuit breaker : http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SGP90100-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-100-AMP-W-BUTTON-RESET-/270698312531?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f06e07353#ht_2781wt_825 And here's a neat trick, install like normal, then jump a blade fuse (~4" wire with blade fuse holder, ~25 amp fuse) from one terminal to another. When in a bad neighbor hood or want to secure the car, pop the trunk and manually pop the circuit breaker....this way you haven't completely removed power from the car (radio settings, alarm system, auto remote locks, etc get to stay on as the blade fuse is bridging power)..yet if some one attempts to steal the car the ~25 amp fuse will pop killing all the power....then you can come along, pop the trunk, reset the circuit breaker, and drive off.
-I don't know what all the talk is,"How do you get through the fire wall, etc.." All my installs my cable runs parallel to the fuel lines all the way back, I've never had a battery cable run inside...not to mention all the feed back you're subject to get. I simply use those cable garments you see them use in car restorations to secure the cable to the under carriage (bag of 25 is ~$3).
-Battery box kit, Walmart/Checker ~$18.


Now, there is a second method of the line, is running the cable to the oem distribution block by the pedals as to have the line inside...yet you're not going to be able to have stereo (after market) lines around that, have yet may have to get another distribution block to split off to get all the power everywhere.

Either way you're still gonna still have to address/remove the acc line running from battery tray area to the oem distribution block

mysman
06-14-2011, 07:31 AM
"wow, how does that not go dead? do you drive the car everyday? i would have to be able to leave my car sit for a week on end at a time."

A week is no problem, but I normally keep it on a battery tender for business trips, etc. Really is no problem in warm weather climates, unless you're running a big audio system. Of course, I keep my tune in good shape, she starts almost immediately every time. Do a search, it's a common way to go.