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View Full Version : Wheel Bearing Already fucked!



DRock3d
05-28-2011, 09:14 AM
I installed a wheel bearing about 3k miles ago and it's already bad again. I did the install and had a shop press it, I'm assuming the shop fucked it up or is there any possible way for it to be my fault. Think I should go back to the shop and ask for my money back and the cost of the bearing covered? I'm so pissed because that job was such a bitch and this time I'm paying a shop to do it instead. Any input guys?

audifirst
05-28-2011, 09:24 AM
probably bad bearing or chinese unit, friend of mine have installed chinese bearing and it lasted 3 months before it failed

br0keit
05-28-2011, 09:28 AM
If you dont use a new axle bolt and/or dont tighten it up to spec you can wear a bearing out fast. Also cheap bearings will do that.

somebody5788
05-28-2011, 09:40 AM
I had a good bearing but the tech that installed it tore the seal while installing it and it failed in about the same time. I use the ones NAPA has, they are Meyle brand and come with an axle bolt. If you go to a shop that is a certified NAPA service center they will warranty labor and parts for at least a year.

DRock3d
05-28-2011, 09:48 AM
I used a *** bearing and new bolt from ecs any word on those ?

csosnowski
05-28-2011, 09:49 AM
I had a good bearing but the tech that installed it tore the seal while installing it and it failed in about the same time. I use the ones NAPA has, they are Meyle brand and come with an axle bolt. If you go to a shop that is a certified NAPA service center they will warranty labor and parts for at least a year.

NAPA bearing kits here as well. Meyle brand, F-A-G (wont let me use the word) on the box. No problems 10k miles and counting.

DRock3d
05-28-2011, 10:30 AM
Any word on installers? I know some guys at pep boys and it seems like they do pretty good work.

FNK
05-28-2011, 10:43 AM
Most of the time the bearing will not be pressed in the housing the right way.
The most likely explanation is that the shop press it in whatever way they like, and it usually end up been pressed in from the inner bearing race (Easier).

The only correct way it to press it in using a tube of the right diameter and thickness that will fit only the outer metal bearing race.
This way the radial load will not surpass the maximum load permitted.
Pressing it from the inner, or both races, will flatten the steel bearing balls and dent the race. This will quickly destroy the chrome plating.

Go at a VW dealer to press it in. They will have the prober jig to press the bearing. (I strongly suggest to watch the operator press it in, this way he will not do something quick and stupid)

DRock3d
05-28-2011, 10:47 AM
Most of the time the bearing will not be pressed in the housing the right way.
The most likely explanation is that the shop press it in whatever way they like, and it usually end up been pressed in from the inner bearing race (Easier).

The only correct way it to press it in using a tube of the right diameter and thickness that will fit only the outer metal bearing race.
This way the radial load will not surpass the maximum load permitted.
Pressing it from the inner, or both races, will flatten the steel bearing balls and dent the race. This will quickly destroy the chrome plating.

Go at a VW dealer to press it in. They will have the prober jig to press the bearing. (I strongly suggest to watch the operator press it in, this way he will not do something quick and stupid)

How much do you think the stealership would charge?

FNK
05-28-2011, 10:53 AM
I don't know, but I strongly suggest to remove the bearing yourself and go at VW (or elsewhere) to finalize the bearing installation. (Way cheaper all the time to DIY!)

It's really easy to remove it yourself;
-Unbolt the arm.
-Use your old axle screw to hammer the bearing out. (You need a new axle screw every time it's removed anyway)

Then press it and re-bolt everything. (Anyway you've done it already!)

DRock3d
05-28-2011, 10:59 AM
How to you get the race off the the hub once you hammer it out? Or do you just hammer out the hub then the bearing

FNK
05-28-2011, 11:14 AM
Use the top of the head pointing down the bearing, them hammer on the threaded part. The outer race will slide out.

DRock3d
05-28-2011, 11:22 AM
Won't the bearing still be attached to the hub though?

csosnowski
05-28-2011, 12:14 PM
hammer and chisel that piece off, not cut - just till you can get a screwdriver or prybar in there and finish it off.

i bought the harborfreight on-vehicle bearing press and couldnt be happier. it has an assortment of pressing tubes and what not.

i dont trust any mechanics to look at my cars, led alone do any work on them.

the whole job is pretty easy, i think the most troublesome part was getting the upright out. pressing the bearing is cake.

DRock3d
05-28-2011, 12:19 PM
hammer and chisel that piece off, not cut - just till you can get a screwdriver or prybar in there and finish it off.

i bought the harborfreight on-vehicle bearing press and couldnt be happier. it has an assortment of pressing tubes and what not.

i dont trust any mechanics to look at my cars, led alone do any work on them.

the whole job is pretty easy, i think the most troublesome part was getting the upright out. pressing the bearing is cake.

Any idea which one HF has multiple bearing kits, and if it's an on vehicle one why did you have to remove the upright?

mholme
05-28-2011, 12:39 PM
I used a *** bearing and new bolt from ecs any word on those ?

I had one installed a few months ago. Anything other than Audi is most likely Chinese made, it said it right on the box. Not that it matters, sometimes bearings fail before reasonable. Also, Audi uses a stepped bearing that only installs one way. It's a slight step and it could probably be pressed on the wrong way if a shop doesn't know this, which would pretty much destroy the bearing on install. Who did the press work?

FNK
05-28-2011, 12:47 PM
Won't the bearing still be attached to the hub though?

Yes one part of the inner race will still be pressed on the hub.
I used two big flat screw to separate the race from the hub enough to use a pry bar. This part is also easy.

You can get a German made bearing for cheap from them;
Best Price Car Parts (http://bestpricecarparts.com/) 48.30$ with the screw

http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/hires/W01331618348RUV.JPG?width=160&height=160

DRock3d
05-28-2011, 01:00 PM
I dropped it off at a garage where I know the owner, I even explained the stepping. If I pull it out and it's backwards I'm going back and having him give me my money back and reimburse me for a new bearing.

br0keit
05-28-2011, 01:20 PM
The best way to get a bearing back in if you don't have tubes is to use the old bearing. Place the new bearing in with a plate on and press then use the old bearing and a plate to press it in the last 1/4in or so. It will press in a little but a few light wacks with a hammer and it'll pop right back out. You can get a 6 ton press from HF or summit for like $140 and do all your bearings all you want!

FNK
05-28-2011, 02:02 PM
The bearing cannot physically be backward.

Look at the two different diameter. The bearing cannot go all the way down and you would have one wheel offset vs the others, that is IF the bolt would be long enough.
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/hires/W01331600303OES.JPG?width=160&height=160

zrowcool
05-28-2011, 02:22 PM
I didnt use a press to get mine in, i used a BFH. to get the old one out i used a socket the size of the outside of the bearing and beat it out. the outer race was stuck on the hub and i used an acetalene(sp?) torch to heat it up so it could expand and come off.

Then i used the old bearing to beat in the new one. Been fine for about 15k

csosnowski
05-28-2011, 02:32 PM
Any idea which one HF has multiple bearing kits, and if it's an on vehicle one why did you have to remove the upright?

funny stoy...

so i bought the on car kit thinking "yeah this will be way easier", $350 worth of tools later and i had bought the 12-ton hydraulic h-press because the damn bearing did not want to come out of the housing.

well, i figured out that my dumb-ass was pressing with the tube right on the raised "seat" of the bearing in the housing, this is part of the casting in case you were wondering. so i used a slightly smaller die and pressed on the bearing instead of the housing and presto it came out. i ended up using the tube from the on car kit in conjunction with the press.

i used the on car kit on the other side to save myself some time, and to make sure it was capable of doing the job. worked fine, i would suggest soaking it with pb-blaster or another penetrant to ease the process.

the kit i got said front-wheel drive bearing press:

Wheel bearing press (http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html)

seanj130
05-28-2011, 03:04 PM
Nothing to do with the bearing or bolt itself.. The hub itself is so worn that putting in a new bearing will only cause it to wear again. I went through 4 bearing (all which were warrantied), only to have to change the rear spindle.

ZimbutheMonkey
05-28-2011, 05:29 PM
I used a *** bearing and new bolt from ecs any word on those ?

Huh, didn't realize that you can't say *** on here.

Seerlah
05-28-2011, 06:29 PM
You can't say **** either. And in case you are wondering what that is, let the **** punch demonstration video commense.

http://nesanika.com/images/upload/images/1241665562.gif

DRock3d
05-29-2011, 09:22 AM
funny stoy...

so i bought the on car kit thinking "yeah this will be way easier", $350 worth of tools later and i had bought the 12-ton hydraulic h-press because the damn bearing did not want to come out of the housing.

well, i figured out that my dumb-ass was pressing with the tube right on the raised "seat" of the bearing in the housing, this is part of the casting in case you were wondering. so i used a slightly smaller die and pressed on the bearing instead of the housing and presto it came out. i ended up using the tube from the on car kit in conjunction with the press.

i used the on car kit on the other side to save myself some time, and to make sure it was capable of doing the job. worked fine, i would suggest soaking it with pb-blaster or another penetrant to ease the process.

the kit i got said front-wheel drive bearing press:

Wheel bearing press (http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html)

I was thinking of going with this http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-93980.html to get the hub off. Or is there a way to do it with that other kit? And sean how did you get all yours covered under warranty wouldn't you have to prove it was done at a certified shop?

csosnowski
05-29-2011, 01:46 PM
nah, you dont need that. plus you wont be able to get it in where you need it anyway. just pull the upright and press the hub out if youre getting the hydraulic press. if youre going the on-car route youll need something like this: Slide hammer (http://www.harborfreight.com/17-piece-heavy-duty-slide-hammer-kit-5223.html).

Thread a couple bolts through the puller face, probably not the best to use lug bolts (i chewed up 2 of mine). but you just thread em in and bash away until the hub is out. then use a screwdriver/chisel/prybar and peel the remaining race off the hub, taking care not to damage the machined surface.

you can see where the step of the hub tucks into the upright, so that bearing separator wouldnt work because it wouldnt fit in there.

old bearing in upright after "slide bash"
http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/y312/christophersosnowski/Wheel%20Bearing/p_00569.jpg

bearing race on hub. i used a cold chisel to separate it slightly and then just carefully pried it off. its not on there really good but you really dont want to gouge the machined surface of the hub.
http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/y312/christophersosnowski/Wheel%20Bearing/p_00570.jpg

used the slide hammer technique on other cars too for pulling hubs/axles so its a tool you can reuse for sure.

DRock3d
05-29-2011, 01:56 PM
Thanks so much man that was really helpful, I bought a slide hammer the first time and a bearing driver kit but I returned them because I never used them since the shop did the work. So now I have to decide if I should just go with a full on press for around 170 or do I buy the on car kit and slide hammer for about the same price.

csosnowski
05-29-2011, 02:13 PM
youre welcome, happy to help

i got my press for 129 press (http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html).

works fine, just a little fiddly thats all. i used the press recently to press new bushings in my front lcas, so its paid for itself.

my rule is, the more tools i have the better. never know whats going to come up haha, my wife does not agree however.