DRAKLORE
05-13-2011, 03:56 PM
A few members want to know what mods or parts are required to get to Big Turbo status, soninsteadnof just listing the parts I figured I would seperate it by each stage or performance level. And of course brakes and suspension are performance related I think I will just stick with engine related mods, feel free to chime in and i will edit in whatever else I miss.
Stage 1
Stage one is going to most likely just be a chip whatever company of your preference)
Here is the beans on what each company provides for power. As you can see REVO yields the highest gains and are relatively cheap in comparison...http://www.highperformanceaudi.com/audi-a4-tuning-b7
APR offers safe reliable tuning with the parts to back up their tunes, they offer tuning all the way up to stage 3 (but if you decide to go stage 3 it has to be there k04 kit) which to some members
isn't a true BT..
REVO offers aggressive tuning, and impressive yields in power at each stage over APR but has a very limited BT files..
GIAC provides good tunes and is much like revo bit I beileive have generic BT files
VAST is going to be OnE of the more expensive choices, but if you plan on going BT then this is a
good choice of who you should start out with
Unitronic is also much like VaSt they provide BT files but I believe they do not need your car as long because the tunes are not so much custom for your particular car
Also there are lots of independent tuners, this will be the best overall choice of company to go with but also more expensive, Mark at ASP is one such example...
Please consider and research the following does my tuner require me to pay$$ between each upgrade and how much$$ EX- REVO 25$ stg:stg APR FREE.... Does my tuner offer custom files For each hardware component I add EX- UNitronic, Vast ect
... Does my tuner take my climate into consideration... Does my tuner provide a means for me to switch between stock/91/93/100/valet ect EX. REVO sps(200$) or APR cruise control stock (FREE$)
MOST importantly!! Does my tuner offer BT software if I decide to take this route! EX-REVO no, APR no (unless you buy their k04)
Stage 2
At this point your going to want to consider replacing your DV (Diverter Valve) unless you already have the revision D, You will want to be checking your Cam love wear and look at investing in a decent boost Guage. For most stg2+ tunes you will need:
-Test pipe. Most companies make these and can run anywhere from 60$ used to a couple hundred new there is a good variety of companies offering them but IMHO a test pipe is a test pipe...
-HFC (high flow catalyst) a good choice if you want to keep your emissions, but also something that's going
To be replaced if you decide to go to BT
-Intake- there areany options for intakes but the stock setup flows very well, the carbonio intakes look really classy and offer slightly better flow for about 1hp (est) there are alternatives offered but the stock airbox surfices for most applications with a drop in filter.
Now you are ready to get tuned, you can choose to go straight to stg2!!!
Stage 2+
Whether coming from a previous stage or going straight to stg2+ this is about the met performance your gong to seemfrom your puny k03. Stg2+ adds in a Higher flowing high pressure fuel pump -(HPFP)
KMD and a few other companies offer HPFP solutions for much cheaper than the APR rebuild pump. The APR pump will run about 900-1000$ and is a well made reliable product. The KMD kit is essentially just the internals that you will drop in your self, so some mechanical know how is required. But there are many members that would be more than willing to give you some pointers!
Stage 3
At this point youve felt the power from other stages and decided you want more power, here's a list of some things your going to need to supplement that BT.
-FMIC front mount intercooler. You may choose to do this earlier in your build.
Some cheaper options for FMIC would be a Godspeed FMIC, or a core and tubing that you will piece together yourself. Then comes "better" flowing with more surface area front mounts such as AWEs FMIC, keep in mind that most will require some modification to either your bumper or crash bar. It is always best to research each one before purchasing. Prices range from 400$-1200$ and as always doing research and shopping around will yield the best results.
-exhaust, if you've ever taken a look under your car you realized that the stock exhaust is probably pretty restrictive, ranging from 2-1/4 to dual 2 1/4 it contains some hefty lunchboxes and resonators that are gonna have to go, Miltek, RAI and many many other options exist, always compare the tone of each exhaust to something that will suit your desires because each setup will sound different, some drone and some are deep. And as always ask other members and use the search feature!
-Injectors are necessary to provide the extra fuel to compliment the higher volume of air, basically if your going to a k04 setup you should look at s3 injectors. If tour looking at most other turbos they recommend the RS4 injectors. Either way there are tons of arguments between multiple tuning companies on which ones are better, the only thing I can say is to contact your tuner to find out what they recommend running on tour particular setup
-PCV delete/ catch can. I you haven't experienced issues yet with your PCV you will soon. BSH offers multiple solutions for the PCV most of which incorporate a connection for a catch can. If your looking for a better alternative EUROJET offers a billet valve cover that not only functions but looks good too!
- Turbo! Whether your going with a k04 or a Garret or HA series turbo then there are a few things to look at and consider, does it use a log manifold or tubular, is it internally wastegated or external(IMHO better) does this kit include the neccessary: piping, exhaust components (test pipe with wastegate bung), gaskets, silicon adapters, and most importantly oil lines that will adapt directly to the stock locations.
Before laying down any money remember to consider what kind of car you want to drive, daily, track, drag. Or just an all round fun car.
water/meth these kits provide better gas mileage and higher performance by adding a methanol mixture to the combustion cylinder, this is either achieved by directly porting meth into the manifold or directly into the cylinder, obviously you will yield higher gains by porting it directly into each cylinder and some members consider running water/meth close to running NOS
-Clutch-- this is an important piece of the mixture that will help you put that power to the ground, whether you feel the need to upgrade this because your stock one is worn or you just can't transfer the power at take off, DXD offers multiple clutch solutions that can be cheaper than the OEM option, to packages that will handle 400+ ft lbs of torque and include a lightweight flywheel. Clutchmasters and LLTEK offer solutions as well.
-Gauges and clusters. PODI offers a huge variety of gauge solutions in some pretty neat configurations.
When you go big turbo tour going to want to monitor what your engine is doing, so a boost gauge is a must and also a way to monitor your AFR (air fuel ratio). Monitoring your intake temps is a good idea along with oil pressure.
Boost controllers will help you dial in those perfect boost settings, MBCs will usually be a one time setting that will require opening the hood to change(there is one kit that allows you to run the control to the interior) when choosing an MBC make sure you know the difference between a bleedeer type which continuosly leak precious boost and spring on/off type
EBCs or electronic boost controllers have an electronic solenoid under the hood that takes an electronic signal from a controller inside the car. You program the controller and van swap settings on the fly or have it adapt
for rpms or conditions. Either way the MBCs can be cheap or upwards of 100$ and the EBCs usually run
anywhere from 200$-600$
All in all I've probably missed a few things feel free to pm me with additions or add links, prices or personal prefferences and experiences (also correct me if you feel I've misinformed anyone)
Thx again [wrench]
Stage 1
Stage one is going to most likely just be a chip whatever company of your preference)
Here is the beans on what each company provides for power. As you can see REVO yields the highest gains and are relatively cheap in comparison...http://www.highperformanceaudi.com/audi-a4-tuning-b7
APR offers safe reliable tuning with the parts to back up their tunes, they offer tuning all the way up to stage 3 (but if you decide to go stage 3 it has to be there k04 kit) which to some members
isn't a true BT..
REVO offers aggressive tuning, and impressive yields in power at each stage over APR but has a very limited BT files..
GIAC provides good tunes and is much like revo bit I beileive have generic BT files
VAST is going to be OnE of the more expensive choices, but if you plan on going BT then this is a
good choice of who you should start out with
Unitronic is also much like VaSt they provide BT files but I believe they do not need your car as long because the tunes are not so much custom for your particular car
Also there are lots of independent tuners, this will be the best overall choice of company to go with but also more expensive, Mark at ASP is one such example...
Please consider and research the following does my tuner require me to pay$$ between each upgrade and how much$$ EX- REVO 25$ stg:stg APR FREE.... Does my tuner offer custom files For each hardware component I add EX- UNitronic, Vast ect
... Does my tuner take my climate into consideration... Does my tuner provide a means for me to switch between stock/91/93/100/valet ect EX. REVO sps(200$) or APR cruise control stock (FREE$)
MOST importantly!! Does my tuner offer BT software if I decide to take this route! EX-REVO no, APR no (unless you buy their k04)
Stage 2
At this point your going to want to consider replacing your DV (Diverter Valve) unless you already have the revision D, You will want to be checking your Cam love wear and look at investing in a decent boost Guage. For most stg2+ tunes you will need:
-Test pipe. Most companies make these and can run anywhere from 60$ used to a couple hundred new there is a good variety of companies offering them but IMHO a test pipe is a test pipe...
-HFC (high flow catalyst) a good choice if you want to keep your emissions, but also something that's going
To be replaced if you decide to go to BT
-Intake- there areany options for intakes but the stock setup flows very well, the carbonio intakes look really classy and offer slightly better flow for about 1hp (est) there are alternatives offered but the stock airbox surfices for most applications with a drop in filter.
Now you are ready to get tuned, you can choose to go straight to stg2!!!
Stage 2+
Whether coming from a previous stage or going straight to stg2+ this is about the met performance your gong to seemfrom your puny k03. Stg2+ adds in a Higher flowing high pressure fuel pump -(HPFP)
KMD and a few other companies offer HPFP solutions for much cheaper than the APR rebuild pump. The APR pump will run about 900-1000$ and is a well made reliable product. The KMD kit is essentially just the internals that you will drop in your self, so some mechanical know how is required. But there are many members that would be more than willing to give you some pointers!
Stage 3
At this point youve felt the power from other stages and decided you want more power, here's a list of some things your going to need to supplement that BT.
-FMIC front mount intercooler. You may choose to do this earlier in your build.
Some cheaper options for FMIC would be a Godspeed FMIC, or a core and tubing that you will piece together yourself. Then comes "better" flowing with more surface area front mounts such as AWEs FMIC, keep in mind that most will require some modification to either your bumper or crash bar. It is always best to research each one before purchasing. Prices range from 400$-1200$ and as always doing research and shopping around will yield the best results.
-exhaust, if you've ever taken a look under your car you realized that the stock exhaust is probably pretty restrictive, ranging from 2-1/4 to dual 2 1/4 it contains some hefty lunchboxes and resonators that are gonna have to go, Miltek, RAI and many many other options exist, always compare the tone of each exhaust to something that will suit your desires because each setup will sound different, some drone and some are deep. And as always ask other members and use the search feature!
-Injectors are necessary to provide the extra fuel to compliment the higher volume of air, basically if your going to a k04 setup you should look at s3 injectors. If tour looking at most other turbos they recommend the RS4 injectors. Either way there are tons of arguments between multiple tuning companies on which ones are better, the only thing I can say is to contact your tuner to find out what they recommend running on tour particular setup
-PCV delete/ catch can. I you haven't experienced issues yet with your PCV you will soon. BSH offers multiple solutions for the PCV most of which incorporate a connection for a catch can. If your looking for a better alternative EUROJET offers a billet valve cover that not only functions but looks good too!
- Turbo! Whether your going with a k04 or a Garret or HA series turbo then there are a few things to look at and consider, does it use a log manifold or tubular, is it internally wastegated or external(IMHO better) does this kit include the neccessary: piping, exhaust components (test pipe with wastegate bung), gaskets, silicon adapters, and most importantly oil lines that will adapt directly to the stock locations.
Before laying down any money remember to consider what kind of car you want to drive, daily, track, drag. Or just an all round fun car.
water/meth these kits provide better gas mileage and higher performance by adding a methanol mixture to the combustion cylinder, this is either achieved by directly porting meth into the manifold or directly into the cylinder, obviously you will yield higher gains by porting it directly into each cylinder and some members consider running water/meth close to running NOS
-Clutch-- this is an important piece of the mixture that will help you put that power to the ground, whether you feel the need to upgrade this because your stock one is worn or you just can't transfer the power at take off, DXD offers multiple clutch solutions that can be cheaper than the OEM option, to packages that will handle 400+ ft lbs of torque and include a lightweight flywheel. Clutchmasters and LLTEK offer solutions as well.
-Gauges and clusters. PODI offers a huge variety of gauge solutions in some pretty neat configurations.
When you go big turbo tour going to want to monitor what your engine is doing, so a boost gauge is a must and also a way to monitor your AFR (air fuel ratio). Monitoring your intake temps is a good idea along with oil pressure.
Boost controllers will help you dial in those perfect boost settings, MBCs will usually be a one time setting that will require opening the hood to change(there is one kit that allows you to run the control to the interior) when choosing an MBC make sure you know the difference between a bleedeer type which continuosly leak precious boost and spring on/off type
EBCs or electronic boost controllers have an electronic solenoid under the hood that takes an electronic signal from a controller inside the car. You program the controller and van swap settings on the fly or have it adapt
for rpms or conditions. Either way the MBCs can be cheap or upwards of 100$ and the EBCs usually run
anywhere from 200$-600$
All in all I've probably missed a few things feel free to pm me with additions or add links, prices or personal prefferences and experiences (also correct me if you feel I've misinformed anyone)
Thx again [wrench]