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View Full Version : Car pulls to the right.. Included the alignment printout.. Alignment experts Help!



Shhmaudi
03-03-2011, 05:44 PM
So I installed my new control arms upper lowers and New outter TRE's. I also installed Neuspeed race springs on my adjustable bilstien shocks. They have a coilover sleeve so you can adjust the ride height.

Anyways I got my alignment done after I installed my Control arms and new Lowered race springs. Ever since I put on the new parts my car pulls to the right. Before and after I got the alignment done. Slow speeds and high speed there is no difference it still pulls

The guy at the shop said it was because my left drivers front GTF is 25 1/2 and my right front passenger is GTF 25 1/4 He said that because one side is higher it is causing the camber to push the car to the right. He even switched my 2 front tires to see if it was because of uneven wear before I got the alignment. Now the car drives straight for about ~200ft and then pulls to the right. There is no frame damage. My mechanic and I torqued down the C/A's at curb weight like your suppose to..

Only thing I can think of is a wheel bearing is out. Or there is some sort of resistance. There is no noise, breaks work fine no rubbing..

Pic of my wheel when I drive straight:
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l240/socal_a4/DSCF0105.jpg

Spec sheet from the alignment:


https://mail-attachment.googleusercontent.com/attachment?ui=2&ik=939d9bf068&view=att&th=12e7e8af35d2cf28&attid=0.1&disp=inline&realattid=f_gkug052g0&safe=1&zw&saduie=AG9B_P8SRSjlTpf9f_cWgTO8P0aT&sadet=1299203192129&sads=mRJL45eQlujhYMlTpU07pAQQews&sadssc=1

Thanks for the help guys

Getoffamybacon
03-03-2011, 06:57 PM
I cannot see your attachment because I do not have a GMail account.

Shhmaudi
03-03-2011, 07:04 PM
Yea I know. I just checked it. I'm in class when I get out ill fix it. I only got my fone

Audi0s
03-03-2011, 07:22 PM
Are you driving on a perfectly level road? Sometimes the crown of the road will make it pull. Have you checked your tire pressures? Maybe try another shop to see what their printout says.

walky_talky20
03-03-2011, 08:07 PM
Tell the fat person in the passenger seat to take the bus.

I kid, I kid. But I'm going to blame the coilover adjustment here. Having one side dropped lower will certainly cause a pull. I' would try correcting that first.

stack
03-04-2011, 05:06 AM
how did you install the control arm
i heard that if you install in not on on ride height the busing twists ( maybe that)

as others said check tire pressure, or go to another shop

somebody5788
03-04-2011, 05:42 AM
My car has always done this even with our 60k alignment rack.... in my case the caster is off due to pulling the subframe. Adjusting my subframe might help though.

I've also personally helped with the alignment 3 times with the same result.

Shhmaudi
03-04-2011, 12:01 PM
Are you driving on a perfectly level road? Sometimes the crown of the road will make it pull. Have you checked your tire pressures? Maybe try another shop to see what their printout says. It does it on the freeway, perfectly flat roads. Tire pressure is level. I will double check tho.


Tell the fat person in the passenger seat to take the bus.

I kid, I kid. But I'm going to blame the coilover adjustment here. Having one side dropped lower will certainly cause a pull. I' would try correcting that first. Hahaha I have a friend that has votgland springs and bilstien shocks and all of his corners are off by 1/2in to a 1/4in and his car still drives straight.. I guess I will raise the right side again hope that fixes it...


how did you install the control arm
i heard that if you install in not on on ride height the busing twists ( maybe that)

as others said check tire pressure, or go to another shop I have been thinking about taking it to another shop just to get a second opinion. I am going to check pressure pull the wheel and raise the sleeve up..


My car has always done this even with our 60k alignment rack.... in my case the caster is off due to pulling the subframe. Adjusting my subframe might help though.

I've also personally helped with the alignment 3 times with the same result.

Do you go through tires much faster? I'm sure you over rotate your tires

somebody5788
03-04-2011, 12:25 PM
Do you go through tires much faster? I'm sure you over rotate your tires

I don't have any unusual tire wear other then my driving causes... lol It gets worse when I have my 18's on with the wider tires.

Gaberossi
03-04-2011, 12:41 PM
I have had the same exact problem for years now and I brought my car to many different shops and the car just veers off to the right every day all day...got stern upper control arms, stock brand new lowers, coilovers, same as you and have the same problem and i got on 4 different alignment racks and nothing is out of spec...I will follow this thread like a treasure map bc you guys seem to be on the right track of correcting this problem

somebody5788
03-04-2011, 01:21 PM
Wish I still had my last alignment print out laying around. I'd post it. My camber is obviously a little off on all 4 corners because I'm at 25" GTF but my toe was exactly to spec. One thing to note is these things ask for a litte toe in or out I forget which from the factory. If you put it to complete 0 it might not pull at all. This would be something you would need to request the shop to do as their software will tell them to do otherwise. Something like 1.5* just can't remember if it's in or out.

Shhmaudi
03-04-2011, 03:45 PM
car is now 25 1/4in GTF on both front and rear is 24 3/4in on both sides.. Car still pulls to the right but hardly at all at slow speeds. mainly at speeds above 40+ the pull is more noticeable and I am having to correct it as I drive.

walky_talky20
03-04-2011, 04:02 PM
So if you let go of the wheel, it will veer right as well as turning the steering wheel itself right a bit? And to drive straight you have to hold it dead center? Or do you have to correct left a bit even to get it to run straight?

Have you checked the temp of all 4 brakes after a long highway drive? Wondering if one is dragging just slightly or something.

Shhmaudi
03-04-2011, 04:02 PM
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l240/socal_a4/page0001.jpg

Shhmaudi
03-04-2011, 04:06 PM
Ever since I switched my 2 front tires, when i let go of the wheel the car will drive straight for about ~120ft then veer to the right and just keep going..

I dont like how my directional hp evo's are being driven backwards.. Guy at the shop did that. Is that bad for the tire?

ricekikr
03-04-2011, 05:48 PM
The reason your pulling to the right is because your right wheel has less camber. Basically more rubber is touching the road when going straight causing more drag/friction causing it to pull to the right. Its like having less air on right tire.

You can even out the camber between left and right. Basically you move the front subframe until camber is even, 4 bolts iirc.

walky_talky20
03-04-2011, 07:22 PM
Yeah, that camber needs corrected (evened out side to side). Wonder why your alignment guy didn't do that? It's his job, no?

DRock3d
03-04-2011, 10:19 PM
Yeah, that camber needs corrected (evened out side to side). Wonder why your alignment guy didn't do that? It's his job, no?

This made so much sense I figured I would make sure it was on here twice. Why did you leave when the sheet clearly says your car isn't aligned.

Shhmaudi
03-04-2011, 10:32 PM
Because I didn't know how to read that sheet till tonight

DRock3d
03-04-2011, 10:46 PM
Gotta match side to side, front and back is a little different but side to side will determine the pull.

salz2135
03-04-2011, 11:01 PM
Not sure why anyone hasn't stated the obvious here as of yet, but the car has more caster on the right front. Vehicles will always pull to the side with more caster. This is why proper setup will usually account for right hand road crown making a slight increase in caster on the left front of the vehicle.

Others have noted that front camber is not even side to side. Your car can pull to the side with the most camber.

In terms of your alignment, both your caster (not adjustable on a stock vw/audi) and your camber settings could be contributing factors in what you have described.

Shhmaudi
03-05-2011, 12:01 AM
So I should drive back to the shop and tell him to rotate my tires back to the way they are suppose to be. Annd tell him to match my caster on both sides?

thanks for stickin with me guys

ricekikr
03-05-2011, 06:56 AM
Not sure why anyone hasn't stated the obvious here as of yet, but the car has more caster on the right front. Vehicles will always pull to the side with more caster. This is why proper setup will usually account for right hand road crown making a slight increase in caster on the left front of the vehicle.

Others have noted that front camber is not even side to side. Your car can pull to the side with the most camber.

In terms of your alignment, both your caster (not adjustable on a stock vw/audi) and your camber settings could be contributing factors in what you have described.

+1 (didn't see it at first)

Yup caster is another reason that your car is pulling to the right. But since it's non-adjustable, get your camber fixed first.

Caster not adjustable, unless you get adjustable arms.

Camber - I doubt he'll do the job for free as a back-job, most alignment shops just adjust the arms with shims or adjust the arms itself (both not applicable to an A4), there's another process that they use a press to bend the suspension to correct camber DON'T do this. It'd be best to search for the instructions (with diagrams) on how to do even out the camber. I think its in the haynes manual.

DRock3d
03-05-2011, 07:34 AM
Hell I'd start with evening out ride height side to side first, that will help with the camber. The front left has a lot of camber compared to the others. The camber readjustment better be free, he didn't fix it the first time so why should he pay the second time? I'd print out instructions on how to adjust it and give them to him.

99blueb5
03-05-2011, 10:22 AM
So I should drive back to the shop and tell him to rotate my tires back to the way they are suppose to be. Annd tell him to match my caster on both sides?

thanks for stickin with me guys

yes directional tires should only go the way they are SUPOSE to go, try this, go try to drive in the rain,all the water will be channeled towards the center of the tires causing it to hydroplane, the water is supose to channeled away from the tire, so yes take the car back and have them fix it

walky_talky20
03-05-2011, 07:49 PM
Generally for an Audi, the price of the alignment will go up if the camber needs adjustment. This is because adjusting the camber is a bit more work: the subframe must be shifted. I would say that it would not be out of the question for the price to double in that case. If the regular 4-wheel alignment was $60, having the front camber adjusted may well make the price over $100 due to the added labor. This isn't to gouge you, but to give you a discount if your car doesn't need that service. In this case it does.

Shhmaudi
03-07-2011, 01:02 PM
Hell I'd start with evening out ride height side to side first, that will help with the camber. The front left has a lot of camber compared to the others. The camber readjustment better be free, he didn't fix it the first time so why should he pay the second time? I'd print out instructions on how to adjust it and give them to him.

I evened out the ride height. still pulls taking the car back for the 3rd time... Hopefully we can get things straight this time.


Generally for an Audi, the price of the alignment will go up if the camber needs adjustment. This is because adjusting the camber is a bit more work: the subframe must be shifted. I would say that it would not be out of the question for the price to double in that case. If the regular 4-wheel alignment was $60, having the front camber adjusted may well make the price over $100 due to the added labor. This isn't to gouge you, but to give you a discount if your car doesn't need that service. In this case it does.

what is really weird is that my car would drive straight before and after I dropped my subframe to remove my oilpan.. It didnt start to pull to the right till after I put on the C/A and springs

pape
06-29-2011, 02:33 AM
I evened out the ride height. still pulls taking the car back for the 3rd time... Hopefully we can get things straight this time.



what is really weird is that my car would drive straight before and after I dropped my subframe to remove my oilpan.. It didnt start to pull to the right till after I put on the C/A and springs

were you able to solve the alignment problems ?

pape
06-29-2011, 02:33 AM
I evened out the ride height. still pulls taking the car back for the 3rd time... Hopefully we can get things straight this time.



what is really weird is that my car would drive straight before and after I dropped my subframe to remove my oilpan.. It didnt start to pull to the right till after I put on the C/A and springs

were you able to solve the alignment problems ?

2001A4QUATTRO
06-29-2011, 09:40 AM
There is an alignment shop in MD that does porsches and audis. They charge $120. I do it myself but if I could not I would definately pay the money. Like walky said to do the alignment correctly you need a shop that is going to do it correctly.. LOL

audienthusiest
06-29-2011, 11:16 AM
you guys are describing a problem i had for 2 yrs... heres how i fixed mine... not sure how itll help but..

my car started to pull around 100k miles.... i went through everything and came up with nothing. My dad (i was in high school at the time) banned me from workin on the car because id take up the garage for weeks at a time and he wasnt happy. Anyway i took it to les schwab of all places... asked them to go through my cantrol rods and tie-rod ends as i was sure that was the problem. They said they couldnt find anything i said check joints. turned out i had a blown ball joint in my upper control arm on my right side. FIXXED EVERYTHING..

you said u did ur own install... anyway u messed up any of the joints?

2001A4QUATTRO
06-29-2011, 11:21 AM
you guys are describing a problem i had for 2 yrs... heres how i fixed mine... not sure how itll help but..

my car started to pull around 100k miles.... i went through everything and came up with nothing. My dad (i was in high school at the time) banned me from workin on the car because id take up the garage for weeks at a time and he wasnt happy. Anyway i took it to les schwab of all places... asked them to go through my cantrol rods and tie-rod ends as i was sure that was the problem. They said they couldnt find anything i said check joints. turned out i had a blown ball joint in my upper control arm on my right side. FIXXED EVERYTHING..

you said u did ur own install... anyway u messed up any of the joints?

Really hard to mess up a brand new balljoint on the control arm. The bushings are easy to destroy if not torqued down @ ride height. The joints? Pretty much fool proof. Let us know what happens. As previously stated I would never get paid for an alignment when the specs are that far off side to side.. GL