PDA

View Full Version : custom Rear sway end links?



Shhmaudi
02-06-2011, 05:51 PM
Anyone fabricate their own end links? Please share what materials you used. Also if there was a difference in performance..

thanks

FNK
02-06-2011, 08:29 PM
You'll need 2 ball rod end whit male tread, 2 bolts to lock, 1 aluminium rod (in the shape you want) with female tread.

ECS sell such adjustable kit.
Whit it, you can compensate for the driver weight, thus creating a more neutral/balanced ryde!

onemoremile
02-07-2011, 05:39 AM
The only reason to have adjustable links is to eliminate the bar's influence when corner balancing the car. Even then it is an incredibly small difference. I'd save some cash and just get the normal steel ones.

blackwat5r
02-07-2011, 06:52 AM
http://www.034motorsport.com/chassis-components-audi-a4s4a6s6-sway-bar-end-link-motorsport-rear-adjustable-b4-b5-audi-p-21215.html

SeekB00st
02-07-2011, 03:32 PM
You can put WRX end links in.

Shhmaudi
02-07-2011, 05:32 PM
You can put WRX end links in.

I heard of that too. Thing is I am not willing to drop $200 on end links..

rubberband
02-07-2011, 06:03 PM
anyone have a stock plastic or metal one layin around they could measure the length?
from the center of each hole? jegs sells the rod ends and someone like mcmaster would have hex stock already threaded.
prolly 10bux worth of matl's...

FNK
02-07-2011, 07:55 PM
I have them at my house, wont be until the weekend...

Militant-Grunt
02-07-2011, 09:56 PM
No point, replace the plastic shit links with oem RS4 ones, which are metal, with nice meyle bushings, they stiffen things up a good bit. Part numbers: 8A0 505 465 CMY and 8A0 505 466 CMY. I install these on my customers cars with hotchkis rear sway setups with drastic improvement.

You're welcome =).

http://images.imcparts.net/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/imc/images/full/8A0505465CMY.jpg

onemoremile
02-07-2011, 11:56 PM
yup.

onemoremile
02-08-2011, 12:00 AM
anyone have a stock plastic or metal one layin around they could measure the length?
from the center of each hole? jegs sells the rod ends and someone like mcmaster would have hex stock already threaded.
prolly 10bux worth of matl's...

Cheap rod ends aren't cheap in the long run. The only way to roll is with the good stuff. 10 bucks wouldn't get you one decent rod end.

rubberband
02-08-2011, 07:09 AM
Cheap rod ends aren't cheap in the long run. The only way to roll is with the good stuff. 10 bucks wouldn't get you one decent rod end.

can you point me in the right direction? everyone’s spec sheets on these ends all have heat treated and cad/zinc plated bodies, hard chrome plated and ground bearings and races etc.
I wouldn’t be able to tell whose is the good stuff VS bad stuff when everyone’s products appear to be made of same mat'ls.
not trying to make and sell these, just want to experiment and see for myself.

blackwat5r
02-08-2011, 09:29 AM
I heard of that too. Thing is I am not willing to drop $200 on end links..

I've got the metal links that I only used for a few months that I'm going to sell because I bought the 034 set when they had the group buy. PM me if you're interested.


anyone have a stock plastic or metal one layin around they could measure the length?
from the center of each hole? jegs sells the rod ends and someone like mcmaster would have hex stock already threaded.
prolly 10bux worth of matl's...

Just measured them; exactly 9 inches from the center of the hole to the center of the bolt

Shhmaudi
02-08-2011, 11:21 AM
No point, replace the plastic shit links with oem RS4 ones, which are metal, with nice meyle bushings, they stiffen things up a good bit. Part numbers: 8A0 505 465 CMY and 8A0 505 466 CMY. I install these on my customers cars with hotchkis rear sway setups with drastic improvement.

You're welcome =).

http://images.imcparts.net/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/imc/images/full/8A0505465CMY.jpg
Thank you where do I buy and how much? the dealer has the regular ones not the aftermarkets shown here for 50ea.. Or the upgraded ones for 99ea(better ball joints) thats the STEALership for ya

onemoremile
02-08-2011, 04:27 PM
can you point me in the right direction? everyone’s spec sheets on these ends all have heat treated and cad/zinc plated bodies, hard chrome plated and ground bearings and races etc.
I wouldn’t be able to tell whose is the good stuff VS bad stuff when everyone’s products appear to be made of same mat'ls.
not trying to make and sell these, just want to experiment and see for myself.

Aurora makes good stuff. Always use the little rubber booties. The rear links are probably the easiest piece to make. They don't see any side load so bending the body isn't a big issue. They are quick and easy to replace and need no tuning. If you can take out any one of the four bolts and it slides smoothly then the bar isn't preloading the suspension.

golfrsi
02-10-2011, 09:44 PM
I have a set of original CPP adjustable rear sway bar links loose in a box if you want all the measurements to clone a set....

• Shaft length - 190mm
• Shaft profile - 2/3rds hexagon (19.2mm), 1/3 round (16mm), the round tapered end is to allow clearance against the CV and axle. Other makers have just shifted the sway back forward to achieve the same spacing (see 034 Sway Bar End Link, Motorsport, Rear, Adjustable B4 / B5 Audi (http://www.034motorsport.com/chassis-components-audi-a4s4a6s6-sway-bar-end-link-motorsport-rear-adjustable-b4-b5-audi-p-21215.html))
• Rod ends - Aurora Bearing MM-T; 1x LH and 1x RH, top and bottom
• Rod End Size - M10x1.50-Left Thread and M10x1.50-Right Thread
• custom machined misalignment spacer - 10mm bore


These are not mine, but an identical set (albeit someone who did not have rubber boots on theirs) to show what I'm describing.

http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/data/49/large/s4_links-3.jpg


Now, if I was to "attempt" make my own with purchasable items (keeping machine time to a min.) I would do the following......

2x MHT-M10-190: Turnbuckle, Hex Bar, Metric, M10 - $4.50 each plus shipping - http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=3394 ** see note 1
2x Aurora Metric Rod End, Male 10mm Bore/ 10 x 1.50 Thread, Left - $24.99 each plus shipping - http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection4.asp?Product=3066
2x Aurora Metric Rod End, Male 10mm Bore/ 10 x 1.50 Thread, Right - $24.99 each plus shipping - http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection4.asp?Product=3066
1x Rod End Boots to Fit : Male & Female 3/8" / 7/16" / 10mm / 12mm - 6 Pack - $25.99 plus shipping - http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=Seals-it_Rod_End_Boots&form_prod_id=6265&action=product
4x Safety Retaining Washer for Rod End Bearings - $2.49 each plus shipping - http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection4.asp?Product=3068 ** see note 2
2x Metric Jam Nut, 10x1.50 LH - $0.79 each plus shipping - http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection4.asp?Product=MJAM
2x Metric Jam Nut, 10x1.50 RH - $0.79 each plus shipping - http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection4.asp?Product=MJAM
1x Spacer material: 0.5" OD x 0.049" WALL x 0.402" ID 6061 T6 TUBE - $4.00 plus shipping - http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=4353&step=4&showunits=inches&id=71&top_cat=60 ** see note 3
4x M10 hardware (length unknown as I'm not under the car to measure) - $10.00 estimate

Note 1: the shafts might need to be turned at the bottom (like the CPPs) or a spacer made on the bar, like 034s,,,
Note 2: not required, but with any single sided mounting of a heim, a safety washer will keep the linkage from completely failing if the heim were to break. see http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/document.asp?DocID=TECH00014
Note 2: without getting into custom machining a set of misalignment spacers to actually seat inside the heims, a 10mm spacer could be built out of .5", .049 wall aluminum tube. this would have an ID of .402 or 10.2mm, you would buy a foot and cut it down to proper lengths. it's cheap, so buy extra as you'll probably need a few tries to cut a clean spacer after cleaning up and polishing.


So, adding this all up,,,, you looking at roughly $158.07 plus all the different shipping... vs. 034 selling a set, ready to install for $195.00 plus shipping (though yours would have nice rubber boots (very important IMO) and safety washers (kinda important IMO) but would lack the anodized finish and bar spacers.

melomandn
08-12-2013, 10:55 AM
You can put WRX end links in.

2 year old thread bump

Anybody heard of this, or have any more info? Like what year WRX?

bhusted
08-12-2013, 04:54 PM
The REAR links for a WRX will serve as replacements for the FRONT on a B5. For the rear on the B5, go with the all metal links posted earlier in the thread.