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View Full Version : BT performance questions (meth, uni/eurodyne, injectors related)



$teady$upreme
01-26-2011, 01:39 AM
Here is my current mods:

Stock internals
AEB NDBW engine
Unitronic 440cc tune
Garrett GT28RS
ATP manifold
Bosch 440cc injectors
USRT 3bar FPR (always wonder if this is the right fpr with this tune?)
VR6 maf
NGK BKR6E (soon ngk iridium or BKR7E)
Custom 3" intake
Custom 3" turboback stainless exhaust
FMIC
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Greddy Profec B spec II
South Bend stage 4 clutch
Fidanza 10lbs flywheel
...etc

Car is a bit rich and stutters at around 5k rpm. Set my low boost at 10psi daily and 18psi for spirited runs. I know others that set to 20psi with stock internals but i want it to be safe. I have never dyno my car, but it might be around 230awhp? Anyhow, now my question is i want to go a tad faster, but not going any bigger turbo (maybe, see what you guys recommend) and my most desirable horsepower range is 300awhp. So i have figured out a few choices on top of my head.

1) stay as is, changed to bigger injectors (550cc?), eurodyne ME7
2) stay as is, add snow performance methanol
3) choice 1+2
4) everything bigger and better, turbo, rods, rings, tune, injectors, meth (but how much for all these?)
5) others?

What do you guys think is the best way to go for around 300awhp?

$teady$upreme
01-26-2011, 04:44 AM
Oh for choices 1,2,3, to be honest, i don't even know if they will gain me anything. People with experience please chime in.

hercfe
01-26-2011, 05:13 AM
revo gtrs file with 550cc injectors. that will give you upwards of 300awhp. no other modifications needed.

HOWEVER, you first need to figure out where the studder is coming from. do you have a wideband to know how rich you think you are? and aren't you supposed to have a 4 or 5 bar reg with that tune?

$teady$upreme
01-26-2011, 05:56 AM
That's why i wonder if my 3bar isn't for my current tune. Thanks for reminding me and yes i do have a wideband, i will check it later.

The stutters refers to post #8, http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/408512-BAT-eurodyne-tune-misfire-stutter-issue-changed-plugs..could-it-be-ICM

biketsai
01-26-2011, 08:16 AM
If you want to sell your tune, I have a bud who might just be interested

chris164935
01-26-2011, 08:22 AM
I say go with choice 4... And I have the perfect turbo for you in my signature! [>_<]

ricekikr
01-26-2011, 08:56 AM
Set my low boost at 10psi daily and 18psi for spirited runs. I know others that set to 20psi with stock internals but i want it to be safe.

1) stay as is, changed to bigger injectors (550cc?), eurodyne ME7
2) stay as is, add snow performance methanol
3) choice 1+2


You don't want to add boost because it will increase the risk of engine exploding (mainly because of more power that break rods), but want more power by spending money on other go-fast goodies? (which also adds more power and also breaks rods)

Why switch to 550cc? Are you running lean up top? If your AFRs are fine, choice 1 would just be a waste of money, mainly because you don't want to raise boost.

If you really want more power and still be on the safe side, install rods, increase boost, chip/tune accordingly. Then add meth, chip/tune accordingly.

viceprp
01-26-2011, 09:12 AM
I would keep the setup the way it is. Get your stutter problem fixed and run it. If did rods and then did 1 & 2 you could push closer to 320+whp with all the supporting mods. BUT if you did do rods then it would almost be a waste to run the 28rs.. You could sell and get a 50 trim and have extra money for goodies. That would push upwards to 350whp on meth.

ZimbutheMonkey
01-26-2011, 10:23 AM
Kinda what he said. You can up the boost for sure. I have an AEB GTRS elim that I've ran upwards of 23 PSI on with water/meth. Not saying it's not without risk, however it has been done. I certain you could safely run 20-21 PSI without worrying about rods. Also, water/meth is a great power adder. I can feel a difference when I shut mine off.

Also, bear in mind that although water/meth allows for more timing which could hurt rods. I would say that is more than offset by keeping potential detonation at bay. Not a lot of people seem to realize that detonation is a huge factor in bending rods. The massive increase in cylinder pressures during uncontrolled combustion is murder on internals. In fact, I would say that in the case of a lot of bent rods that was an undiagnosed or unreported causal factor.

JumboBlack1.8
01-26-2011, 12:37 PM
I would get a custom dyno tune. Don't convert to DBW me7.....it takes too much to make a clean swap....THEN you'd have to tune it (assuming you went Maestro7), which is NOT a simple task (ask me how I know....). You should be able to push far more than 10psi daily without any studders if you go with a custome tune. The studder is likely do to either fuel or timing being totally out of whack

If you're going to spend the money, spend it on something that's narrowly tailored to your setup.....don't add potentially more complications to the system

*edit*
Also, get an adjustable FPR (they're cheap)....that'll help dial in the appropriate fuel pressure

dcampana
01-26-2011, 01:32 PM
yea i agree with the above. get the stuttuer figured out first. how are your plugs? what type are you running and what are they gapped at? that 440 tune is fine and i dont think you will see much in terms of gains going to the revo 550 tune. just my opinion though. i run 24 psi on 440s with a 2871 on a tock block and all is fine. I too am running a 3 bar, but rich as hell at idle, as i think the tune is actually calling for a 2.7 bar. get an adjustable FPR, then dial from there.

use of wide band will be highly needed.

$teady$upreme
01-26-2011, 01:47 PM
Ok, how about injectors? I can sell as a set once i decided what to do next. You got first dibs.


If you want to sell your tune, I have a bud who might just be interested

$teady$upreme
01-26-2011, 01:49 PM
Wonder what tune are you running now? The only reason why i think of meth is that my tuner can tune it with the ME7.


Kinda what he said. You can up the boost for sure. I have an AEB GTRS elim that I've ran upwards of 23 PSI on with water/meth. Not saying it's not without risk, however it has been done. I certain you could safely run 20-21 PSI without worrying about rods. Also, water/meth is a great power adder. I can feel a difference when I shut mine off.

Also, bear in mind that although water/meth allows for more timing which could hurt rods. I would say that is more than offset by keeping potential detonation at bay. Not a lot of people seem to realize that detonation is a huge factor in bending rods. The massive increase in cylinder pressures during uncontrolled combustion is murder on internals. In fact, I would say that in the case of a lot of bent rods that was an undiagnosed or unreported causal factor.

sean1.8t
01-26-2011, 02:01 PM
i'd switch to TAPP for tune/630's. it's the best you'll do on nDBW. then add meth as it will give you much safer power when tuned right. and crank it up to 20psi. don't be afraid. i ran my GT28RS B6 on 22psi daily w/meth. just log it and make sure you're knock and timing correction's are in check

ZimbutheMonkey
01-26-2011, 03:35 PM
what he said

SVT_BRYAN
01-27-2011, 03:45 PM
Are there any companies or programs that will let me tune my AEB myself? I havent found anything but I'd love to be able to do my own tuning. Everything I've come across is for DBW.

Avant Nate
01-27-2011, 04:15 PM
Why can't you use maestro 7 ? aeb are listed as supported engines, do you have to do a conversion first?

T0mat3
01-27-2011, 04:41 PM
Nope, no mods needed, just has less features then with the me7 ecu.

T0mat3
01-27-2011, 04:43 PM
Im saying its an ignition problem, Plugs or coilpacks, something related to spark.

Spanky387
01-27-2011, 05:22 PM
Check your spark plug gap and set it around .026 - .028 and see if that takes care of your studder problem. If you dont have a wideband I would invest in one. I perfer AEM over LC1s. Install wideband, and just turn the boost up. That will be the cheapest and most efficent way to add more HP. I wouldnt go over 22psi tho.

Good luck!

SVT_BRYAN
01-27-2011, 05:24 PM
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind when I build for a bigger turbo. I'd run across the Maestro software before, but thought it was only for 2000+. Awesome!

$teady$upreme
01-27-2011, 07:55 PM
Yah i do have a LM1 wideband, going to check soon and report back.


Check your spark plug gap and set it around .026 - .028 and see if that takes care of your studder problem. If you dont have a wideband I would invest in one. I perfer AEM over LC1s. Install wideband, and just turn the boost up. That will be the cheapest and most efficent way to add more HP. I wouldnt go over 22psi tho.

Good luck!