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View Full Version : My dang headlights won't turn on!



auh
01-16-2011, 11:54 PM
I did some searching and am assuming that its my combination switch. Is this a part that would be ok to pull out of a junk yard? There are 5 A4s (3 96s, 1 97, and 1 98) in some junkyards near my house and I'm sure at least one of them has this switch. Or am I better off buying one new?

I also feel like this is a great time to use the excuse that I need to upgrade my headlight housing :)

FOUR
01-17-2011, 06:38 AM
Lets put it this way. I cheaped out and bought a combi switch off of Ebay and it was a dud. That was a waste of money and especially time. Then I went to the stealership and bought the switch(which they carry in stock most of the time because of this problem)195.00. Yes, it was expensive but you know what, It was brand new and I know I have tons of life left in it compared to buying a switch from a junk yard which might work for an hour but who knows when it will blow(a ticking time bomb if you will). Hope this helps you.

JunkerAvant
01-17-2011, 07:04 AM
If you do a search on QuattroWorld or VWVortex there is a fix which is cheap & simple and long lasting. What you do after repairing your switch is to RELAY the headlight circuit. There is way too many Amps running through such a flimsy switch. Is it any wonder the plastic that holds the copper contact piece melts and causes it to negate the contact piece.

teamdaraptor
01-17-2011, 07:08 AM
Let me just say after doing HID's in both heads and fogs, I absolutely HATE the lighting/electrical system on the front end of these cars. HATE HATE HATE! Buy a new one or do the mod. I've had to replace two (one for each car) and ya it sucked biting the 200$ bullet, but it worked.

NeedingAnAudi
01-17-2011, 08:28 AM
auh which junkyards have audi's? I haven't been able to find any junkyards with audis yet.

auh
01-17-2011, 08:29 AM
picknpull.com has 4

auh
01-17-2011, 10:48 PM
Ok, bandaid applied... I followed a DIY on Audiforums for jumping the parking lights to the headlights and that will get me by until my switch arrives. Also going to pick up a relay tomorrow.

Up next, R8 style headlights!

colombian301
01-17-2011, 11:09 PM
Ok, bandaid applied... I followed a DIY on Audiforums for jumping the parking lights to the headlights and that will get me by until my switch arrives. Also going to pick up a relay tomorrow.

Up next, R8 style headlights!

DONT GET A RELAY JUST DO THIS DIY AND YOU SHOULDN'T HAVE ANY PROBLEM WORKED FOR ME

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec114.shtml

auh
01-17-2011, 11:11 PM
Nope, didn't work...pulled the damn switch apart 4 times and cleaned it every time, just incase I didn't clean it enough the time before. I removed melted plastic to make sure all the copper was springy enough. Just couldn't be saved.

Plus, why wouldn't you get a relay after doing that mod? A relay will ensure that you won't ever have to pull the switch apart again!

colombian301
01-17-2011, 11:20 PM
Nope, didn't work...pulled the damn switch apart 4 times and cleaned it every time, just incase I didn't clean it enough the time before. I removed melted plastic to make sure all the copper was springy enough. Just couldn't be saved.

Plus, why wouldn't you get a relay after doing that mod? A relay will ensure that you won't ever have to pull the switch apart again!

Well if you know u did it right and it didn't work then I take that back keep going with plan b...it's werid that it didn't work it work fine for me...well good luck anyways man

auh
01-17-2011, 11:21 PM
Yeah, if you look around you'll find it doesn't work for everyone. thanks!

colombian301
01-17-2011, 11:44 PM
Yeah, if you look around you'll find it doesn't work for everyone. thanks!

What color housing u getting ur headlights?

onemoremile
01-18-2011, 03:53 AM
A relay will ensure that you won't ever have to pull the switch apart again!

Exactly. My switch died for the third time. I don't know if cleaning it up again will fix it but I'll be installing relays for the lows, highs, and fogs.

onemoremile
01-18-2011, 04:47 AM
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2632686

JunkerAvant
01-18-2011, 07:10 AM
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2632686
Read this site patiently and always take note of the disagreements in it. For me it makes perfect sense since I've done many mods such as this one. Here is my take on it...
1/ Always fuse the power line from the battery. I have installed a 30 amp fuse close to the relays on a heavy weight 10 gauge RED wire from the battery.
2/ 30amp 4 prong Relays are a must & easy to get from your local Autozone or PepBoys.
3/ Always fuse any Xenon (+)wire from the Relay.
4/ Use insulated weather-proof connectors or heat shrink tube to protect the connectors.
5/ Make sure the connectors are on tight...use good electrical pliers that have different size pinch teeth for the connectors.
5/ Ground wires must be tight on their connectors & to the ground. Or your lites don't come on.[headbang]

vifferdc
01-18-2011, 07:18 AM
I posted this on the S4 forum but received little reply. My comments on the vwvortex relay instructions:

I recently bought ecodes from velocity (not a recommended vendor btw) and immediately noticed that while my headlights work they flickered slightly, just enough to be irritating. After reading numerous threads it sounds like the problem can be traced down to shitty ballasts or adding a relay. In lieu of dealing with velocity again I decided to go with the relay route. I followed these instructions:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2632686

87: 14 awg to the ballast directly
85: 12 awg to ground/chassis
86: 16 awg to yellow/black headlight positive lead
30: 12 awg to battery with 30 amp fuse

Thankfully the headlights went on but after 10 seconds the flickering resumed. I then opted to ground the ballasts directly and the problem is still there. And now the headlight warning comes on. Any thoughts? I'd really rather not go back to the vendor and attempt to get new ballasts.

colombian301
01-18-2011, 10:52 AM
I posted this on the S4 forum but received little reply. My comments on the vwvortex relay instructions:

I recently bought ecodes from velocity (not a recommended vendor btw) and immediately noticed that while my headlights work they flickered slightly, just enough to be irritating. After reading numerous threads it sounds like the problem can be traced down to shitty ballasts or adding a relay. In lieu of dealing with velocity again I decided to go with the relay route. I followed these instructions:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2632686

87: 14 awg to the ballast directly
85: 12 awg to ground/chassis
86: 16 awg to yellow/black headlight positive lead
30: 12 awg to battery with 30 amp fuse

Thankfully the headlights went on but after 10 seconds the flickering resumed. I then opted to ground the ballasts directly and the problem is still there. And now the headlight warning comes on. Any thoughts? I'd really rather not go back to the vendor and attempt to get new ballasts.

Before the ecodes did u have a oem hid headlights?

onemoremile
01-18-2011, 01:31 PM
Read this site patiently and always take note of the disagreements in it. For me it makes perfect sense since I've done many mods such as this one. Here is my take on it...
1/ Always fuse the power line from the battery. I have installed a 30 amp fuse close to the relays on a heavy weight 10 gauge RED wire from the battery.
2/ 30amp 4 prong Relays are a must & easy to get from your local Autozone or PepBoys.
3/ Always fuse any Xenon (+)wire from the Relay.
4/ Use insulated weather-proof connectors or heat shrink tube to protect the connectors.
5/ Make sure the connectors are on tight...use good electrical pliers that have different size pinch teeth for the connectors.
5/ Ground wires must be tight on their connectors & to the ground. Or your lites don't come on.[headbang]

1. Always fuse as close to the battery as possible. This limits the length of live wire in case of a short.
3. Not needed if the main power feed is fused near the battery.

The rest is dead on. When making a new ground I like to get down to bare metal, attach the ground, and then cover that with Vasoline or paint to keep it from oxidizing.

JunkerAvant
01-19-2011, 07:42 AM
1. Always fuse as close to the battery as possible. This limits the length of live wire in case of a short.
3. Not needed if the main power feed is fused near the battery.

The rest is dead on. When making a new ground I like to get down to bare metal, attach the ground, and then cover that with Vasoline or paint to keep it from oxidizing.

Jim it really doesn't matter where the fuse is. After having an S2 for 20 yrs with older Xenons I have found that if there is a short it will be nearer the Relay or the Headlites rather than at the Battery. AND I have found that installing a fuse between the Relay and Xenon's give you a failsafe. Easier to replace a fuse & diagnose a problem.
Wurths Exterior Wax Spray is a great way to protect the ground connection.