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walky_talky20
12-21-2010, 07:30 PM
Hey guys, I'm gearing up for my 5-speed swap (no pun intended) and had a few little questions. First some info:

- 2001 A4 1.8T Quattro Tiptronic

Questions:

A: Driveshaft. The junkyard I called (which was awesome BTW), asked me whether I needed an "early" or "late" 5-speed driveshaft. The only difference I was aware of was that the very early ones (perhaps 97 only?) were carbon fiber, and the rest are not. Is that accurate and is there another difference I need to be aware of?

B: Tranny codes: Any significance to these? I'm quite curious as to what all the different codes are and what they specifically mean, but I was under the impression that all 1.8T 5-speed 01A boxes were interchangeable. I believe the tranny the yard wanted to sell was a "DWR". Sounded good to me, but open to any insights.

C: Shifter stuff. I am going to search this up some more, but it seems some A4's (early?) and Passat's have a metal shifter cage instead of the plastic deal. I would think the metal is more desirable, but I don't know. Also the shifter trim - I'm assuming the interior bits are different between pre-facelift/facelift. So I'd have to get the cover/boot from a 99.5+ car, right? Going to do some more searching on that, but if anybody has a quick answer, that would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any and all input! I want to pull the trigger on this sometime after Christmas.

Sidenote:
I found a new favorite junkyard. I called them earlier today and got prices on everything, trans, axles, driveshaft, shifter stuff, 2.8 trans bracket, hydraulic lines, slave cylinder - all the stuff. He gave me a price of $500 for the entire swap. I was just getting prices and he took the time to look it all up and make sure they had everything, very nice guy. He even chatted with me about how amazing quattro was in the snow (he had one for a winter car). Anyway, after talking to a bunch of yards who won't sell anything that isn't "listed" and can't be bothered to look stuff up, I was pretty impressed. Place is called "Maroney's" and is near Pittsburgh, PA. They do tons of Euro cars: VW, Audi, BMW, etc. The high failure items (like 1.8T engines!) they sell at full tilt prices - $1500+. The stuff nobody needs, they seem to just give it away. Road tested 98 Jetta 2.0 engine with warranty - $75. No kidding.

somebody5788
12-21-2010, 07:38 PM
Hey guys, I'm gearing up for my 5-speed swap (no pun intended) and had a few little questions. First some info:

- 2001 A4 1.8T Quattro Tiptronic

Questions:

A: Driveshaft. The junkyard I called (which was awesome BTW), asked me whether I needed an "early" or "late" 5-speed driveshaft. The only difference I was aware of was that the very early ones (perhaps 97 only?) were carbon fiber, and the rest are not. Is that accurate and is there another difference I need to be aware of?

B: Tranny codes: Any significance to these? I'm quite curious as to what all the different codes are and what they specifically mean, but I was under the impression that all 1.8T 5-speed 01A boxes were interchangeable. I believe the tranny the yard wanted to sell was a "DWR". Sounded good to me, but open to any insights.

C: Shifter stuff. I am going to search this up some more, but it seems some A4's (early?) and Passat's have a metal shifter cage instead of the plastic deal. I would think the metal is more desirable, but I don't know. Also the shifter trim - I'm assuming the interior bits are different between pre-facelift/facelift. So I'd have to get the cover/boot from a 99.5+ car, right? Going to do some more searching on that, but if anybody has a quick answer, that would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any and all input! I want to pull the trigger on this sometime after Christmas.

Sidenote:
I found a new favorite junkyard. I called them earlier today and got prices on everything, trans, axles, driveshaft, shifter stuff, 2.8 trans bracket, hydraulic lines, slave cylinder - all the stuff. He gave me a price of $500 for the entire swap. I was just getting prices and he took the time to look it all up and make sure they had everything, very nice guy. He even chatted with me about how amazing quattro was in the snow (he had one for a winter car). Anyway, after talking to a bunch of yards who won't sell anything that isn't "listed" and can't be bothered to look stuff up, I was pretty impressed. Place is called "Maroney's" and is near Pittsburgh, PA. They do tons of Euro cars: VW, Audi, BMW, etc. The high failure items (like 1.8T engines!) they sell at full tilt prices - $1500+. The stuff nobody needs, they seem to just give it away. Road tested 98 Jetta 2.0 engine with warranty - $75. No kidding.

IDK about most of it but I know this.

ALL 01a's are interchangeable. The letters wont really matter. Just try to stay 1.8t trans with the 1.8 and 2.8 trans with the 2.8 (trust me... its not an upgrade to switch.. Audi knows what they were doing)

Also the shifter. I was given an ebay short throw in a Passat metal cage. I think this is a worthy upgrade vs the plastic. Not because of the material but the design of the bushing. The Audi plastic one has a lot more play in the rubber mounts that hold the pivot so its a softer engagment but the Passat one is a little sportier and I love it.

Now my Belief on the driveshaft is they all fit so may as well get the CF one if its possibly lighter haha. I cannot back this up with evidence though

Find me a good condition first gear hehehe. For a 2.8 trans

Papa_Dios
12-21-2010, 07:42 PM
Wow nice yard find I was quoted 1500 for a ENP tranny SMHH....Here's what I know.

1. Correct early driveshafts were CF and that is the only difference they bolt up the same.

2. There are two tranny codes either one will work DWR (Pre-Facelift) ENP (Facelift)

3. All I know is that early A4's came with push down reverse, if that is the plastic or metal design I'm not sure of. As for the interior shifter stuff unfortunately pre-facelift stuff won't work for us. That just gives you an excuse to source out some S4 stuff. I had my eye on an S4 trim on audis4parts so check them out.

walky_talky20
12-21-2010, 07:45 PM
Thanks for the reply. Do you know what year Passat your cage was from or have a photo of it? Just so I know what I'm looking for when I go to the junkyard.

I kind of want a CF driveshaft, just so I can say that I have one, lol.

A4Rob
12-21-2010, 07:49 PM
Just try to stay 1.8t trans with the 1.8 and 2.8 trans with the 2.8 (trust me... its not an upgrade to switch.. Audi knows what they were doing)

This is more of an option more than anything. For the 1.8T guys running BAT, and NOT drag racing, the 2.8 transmission is a good choice. I am not talking about 2860 or elims, I am talking 400+whp cars.

To answer one of your questions walky, the shift boots are different from pre to post facelift. You will need a boot from a 99.5-01

Rob

somebody5788
12-21-2010, 07:51 PM
This is more of an option more than anything. For the 1.8T guys running BAT, and NOT drag racing, the 2.8 transmission is a good choice. I am not talking about 2860 or elims, I am talking 400+whp cars.

To answer one of your questions walky, the shift boots are different from pre to post facelift. You will need a boot from a 99.5-01

Rob

True when you're running a built motor its a different story hehe. I'd basically say it this way then. If you're on stock rods use the stock transmission.

Sales@RAI
12-22-2010, 01:28 PM
This is more of an option more than anything. For the 1.8T guys running BAT, and NOT drag racing, the 2.8 transmission is a good choice. I am not talking about 2860 or elims, I am talking 400+whp cars.

To answer one of your questions walky, the shift boots are different from pre to post facelift. You will need a boot from a 99.5-01

Rob

I don't mind mine drag racing, did a 12.1 on it on 24lbs and pump 93

a4_1.8t_01
12-22-2010, 08:24 PM
I thought the crank shaft needs to be replaced also when doing a swap.

walky_talky20
12-22-2010, 08:25 PM
I thought the crank shaft needs to be replaced also when doing a swap.

There are a few ways around that. Actually, bypassing that requirement is pretty much what makes this worthwhile.

It seems you can either shave down the end of the crank to add clearance for a special order bearing that fits into the flywheel. Or you an use an OEM pilot bearing in the end of the auto crank after removing a plug that may be there.

If anybody has details they want to add about this part, I'd love to hear them. This is pretty much the only part I'm a little shaky on right now.

biketsai
12-22-2010, 08:35 PM
There are a few ways around that. Actually, bypassing that requirement is pretty much what makes this worthwhile.

It seems you can either shave down the end of the crank to add clearance for a special order bearing that fits into the flywheel. Or you an use an OEM pilot bearing in the end of the auto crank after removing a plug that may be there.

If anybody has details they want to add about this part, I'd love to hear them. This is pretty much the only part I'm a little shaky on right now.

Another thing to add, is to check to see what final drive your rear diff is. Most likely it will be a 4.11, and im sure it needs to be what most manual transmission are; 3.89.
As far as the shaving thing, I wouldnt be worried at all! This past weekend I helped another guy in Austin swap out his transmission to 5spd!

walky_talky20
12-22-2010, 09:35 PM
Another thing to add, is to check to see what final drive your rear diff is. Most likely it will be a 4.11, and im sure it needs to be what most manual transmission are; 3.89.
As far as the shaving thing, I wouldnt be worried at all! This past weekend I helped another guy in Austin swap out his transmission to 5spd!

I was assuming all the quattro cars were the same: 3.89. After a little bit of searching, it seems the Tiptronic cars have a 3.73 and manual cars have 3.89. I didn't realize I'd be changing the diff. Will need to get a price on that.

Chris, was that the case with your car? TIP rear end was 3.73 and 5-speed rear end was 3.89? Is it stamped on the housing or a code or what?

So it turns out I'm not "gearing up" for my swap...I'm "gearing down".

biketsai
12-22-2010, 09:44 PM
My tip rear end was 4.11, the 5 speed was 3.89, along with the 5spd.
Diffs arent hard to find and they are usually about $150.

It is stamped on the bottom of the diff. I think Bentley has the chart for what is what, lmk if you need me to look it up.

Chris

Papa_Dios
12-23-2010, 05:21 AM
My tip rear end was 4.11, the 5 speed was 3.89, along with the 5spd.
Diffs arent hard to find and they are usually about $150.

It is stamped on the bottom of the diff. I think Bentley has the chart for what is what, lmk if you need me to look it up.

Chris

I didn't recall reading about a rear diff swap in yur DIY when did you do that? And is it necessary?

biketsai
12-23-2010, 08:46 AM
I didn't recall reading about a rear diff swap in yur DIY when did you do that? And is it necessary?

Its written a few pages down, and I believe it is necessary if you don't wanna kill your transmission. I figured paying $150 for this piece would be better than paying for a transmission all over again. 1

Papa_Dios
12-23-2010, 09:45 AM
AWWW gotcha ill take a look again. Yea def not worth killing the tranny. Did you get a decent amount for your auto stuff? Looking online I see that auto trannys are more expensive than the manuals.

biketsai
12-23-2010, 09:55 AM
I did, but not as much as I had hoped for. I had an upgraded tranny (IPT valvebody), and sold it for about $700.

Papa_Dios
12-23-2010, 11:02 AM
That's decent I guess. My only other question would be with the 4.11 acceleration is better but stresses the tranny more?

biketsai
12-23-2010, 12:18 PM
The 4.11 acceleration ratio is better, and I could definitely feel it when I drove. However just driving around it "felt" like i was at a higher RPM when I really wasnt. But then again, people have their conjectures on how the 4.11 rear diff shouldnt be used with a 3.89 trans. I didnt wanna make my 200 mile commute to school with something that could potentially cause a problem .

Papa_Dios
12-23-2010, 12:27 PM
Hmmm interesting. Me coming from an import background and in switching out my rear end on my nissan for a taller one w/o seeing any problems, makes me wonder if it's just a misconception or if this could potentially cause problems.

somebody5788
12-23-2010, 12:30 PM
Well what happens is your rear wheels want to spin at a different rate as your front wheels. Except the road will not allow this. This causes the center differential to take the brunt of the opposing forces. The torque sensing torsen dif does not enjoy this

Papa_Dios
12-23-2010, 04:14 PM
Ahhh good point sometimes I forget the AWD factor. So then since the front wheels are driven by the tranny and have the gearing for 3.89 then the rear should match that.

somebody5788
12-23-2010, 08:43 PM
B3 01A apparently has the 4.11 final drive. This would allow a manual swap w/o the rear dif. Shorter gears over all though.

walky_talky20
12-23-2010, 10:26 PM
That's interesting because I happen to own a B3 5-speed car.

I really don't think the Tip's are 4.11, though. Everything I've read so far says 3.73. But I can't say I know what I'm talking about either. I'll be looking at my diff soon. Is there any other way to check, like the option code sticker or something?

biketsai
12-23-2010, 11:21 PM
If you look at the code, I can cross reference it with the bentley manual. I'm on my phone now, but I'll post up the diagram tomorrow morning.

walky_talky20
12-26-2010, 12:01 PM
I just checked out my codes, looked at the option code sticker in the trunk. Then looked at the Bentley. Trans code is FAL and diff code is DAK. These codes are probably the same as your car. Alas, my car has the 4:11 gears as well. Sorry for doubting you, Chris.

Guess I'm pricing out a 3.889 diff tomorrow. Awesome.

But, keeping the 4:11's would be fun. I can get a B3 5-speed for $150. Not sure what else would be involved in making that work. As far as driveshaft, shifter, axles, mounts etc. Anybody have any info on that? Are they pretty much identical?

Really thinking hard about using the B3 tranny. I would save $300 on the swap ($150 less for the tranny, and $150 less for not buying a diff). And have some shorter gears too. Question for 5-speed people: can you afford slightly shorter gears? Going to 4:11 would make the ratio's closer as well as make cruising rpm a bit higher. I'll have to figure out how much.

biketsai
12-26-2010, 04:08 PM
If you can swing the b3 trans, I'd say go for it. Mike Hood is currently running the B3 trans, You can probably give him a call or message him on facebook or something. I'm sure he'd be more than happy to lead you in the right path, he actually mentioned this thread to me along with the B3 transmission working in the B5 with a 4.11 ratio about a week ago.

walky_talky20
12-26-2010, 04:36 PM
Yeah, I think I'm going to do it. I ran the numbers and it turns out the highway RPMS are actually *better* with the B3 01A trans and 4:11 gears. Compared to the B5 01A with 3.889 gears, that is. The gears themselves (1-5) are actually different between the 2, making up for the difference in final drive. I was assuming the gears were basically the same. Not the case for the 80/90 series, but *is* the case for the Coupe Quattro 01A. That would give basically B5 gears, but with a 4.11 final drive. Here is what I came up with:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b154/walky_talky20/B5-gears.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b154/walky_talky20/B3-gears.jpg

So 1->2 is shorter, 2->3 is longer, 3->4 is shorter, and 4->5 is about the same. At 80 MPH, the B5 setup would be doing around 3500 RPMs. The B3 setup, by comparison, would only be doing 3400 RPMs. So this seems like a pretty workable solution.

And for completeness, here is my Tiptronic:
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b154/walky_talky20/B5-Tip-gears.jpg

black99.5a4
12-26-2010, 04:57 PM
if you wanna keep the 4.11's then look into a 01e, but that's probably more $$ then you wanna spend anyways. I'd love to track my car, then 4.11 swap it to track it again. It might make the tq feeling a little better.

There is a good trans on CL out this way, with 104k on it, out of a 1.8t 5 speed for 150 picked up.

On the driveshaft.. make sure it all fits. A buddy bought a 97 a4 and swapped in a newer trans and newer steel driveshaft b/c his CF was fucked.. The local dealer told him the rear diff needed to be 98+.. IDK why, I didn't help with the car so I can't post on the differences. But call before you buy shit you wont use.

walky_talky20
12-26-2010, 05:17 PM
Yeah, I was little foggy on this "early" or "late" driveshaft thing. Using a trans from 1989 makes it even foggier. I don't know how to verify stuff. I should probably get a hold of Mike Hood to see if he can offer any details.

walky_talky20
12-31-2010, 01:19 PM
So I've been doing some research in ETKA and here is what I've found:

- rear diffs are all the same part numbers from 96 through 2001, just different ratio's/codes.
- There are 2 different manual driveshafts, the split is in 1998. (8D-W-080000) (coincidentally, same for auto driveshafts)
- The bolts and special steel double-washers are the same for all years, so the bolt pattern/depth must be identical.
- The "gasket" that goes at each end of the driveshaft was updated along with the driveshaft, but appears to be an identical shape, just a different material (rubber/foam instead of a cork type):

Early:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/8d0407309/ES429770/
Late:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/183521141a/ES258579/

From what I could find, the 2 different driveshafts are visually recognizable. On the early ones, the 2 shafts are slightly different outer diameter. On the late ones, both shafts appear to be the same diameter. Also, most of the early ones appear to have a large yellow warning sticker on them. Perhaps that warning has to do with the Carbon Fiber construction, and some care that must be taken during service near it, like not to use heat. I'm not sure, they all look like metal to me. Here are 2 photos:

EARLY:
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b154/walky_talky20/early.jpg

LATE:
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b154/walky_talky20/late.jpg

Mike Hood (thanks for the recommendation, Chris) advised that I use a driveshaft from the same year as my differential. My local junkyard has lots of '99 driveshafts, which all should be the "late" type and the same part as an '01. So I should be set.

I want to thank everyone for the help so far. I can't wait to start on this swap.

Sales@RAI
12-31-2010, 01:36 PM
I've seen just about every 01A possible. The trans cases and diff cases are IDENTICAL on ALL years of B5 A4. Either driveshaft will work. The newer one is easier to take off though. Let me know if you have any more questions.

AustinQuattro
12-31-2010, 01:46 PM
Hey, if you have any other questions, I'm the guy BikeTsai just helped with. I LOVE the transmission now. Make sure you get a good tranny though, I'm having a little problem with first gear it seems. And pick up new stuff for anything you're going to want changed...might as well do it while you're down there! I did the front suspension while I had all the stuff out since it's WAY easier to do when there is no transmission in the way (control arms, etc). You will be pleased with the results when you finally get behind the wheel of it!

walky_talky20
12-31-2010, 02:57 PM
Thanks Clint. I'll certainly let you know if have any other questions.

@Austin: Yeah, I plan on doing a bunch of stuff while I'm in there. I'm actually planning on pulling the engine and the trans together. I'm doing a full t-belt kit, water pump, all the front seals, rear main seal, trans input and output shaft seals, re-adjust my wastegate actuator rod, revamp the PCV a bit, front shocks and ECS coilover kit, clean the bay with some wire tuck where possible, paint the VC and intake manifold, drop the pan and clean the oil pickup. Lots of stuff.

Amorphic
12-31-2010, 07:27 PM
so jealous. I want to do this swap so bad. I live in the boons though and have no access to any good junkyards etc

walky_talky20
12-31-2010, 07:54 PM
Me either. I'm driving 3 hours away to pick everything up. That's why I have to figure everything out for sure. I don't want to make a second trip.

Papa_Dios
02-24-2011, 08:43 PM
Update?

walky_talky20
02-25-2011, 07:24 PM
I procured the B5 V6 5-speed transmission mount brackets on ebay a few weeks ago, after the junkyard I was dealing with did not feel like selling them separate from a tranny.

I just got back from said junk yard yesterday where I purchased the driveshaft, front axles, shifter box assembly, and hydraulic clutch line. The last 2 items they did not have ready (despite me calling them 4 separate times to confirm: 1 month, then 2 weeks, then 5 days, then 4 hours ahead of time). But I was able to cruise the lot and pick out the shifter of my dreams which they will ship to me, no extra charge. I'll try and get some photos of the parts soon.

Once I get all the parts together, I start driving the minivan to work while I tear my A4 apart and put it back together (with a proper gearbox) in the evening hours and weekends. I'm doing lots of stuff at once and I don't have tons of time to work on it, so I'm prepared for it to be off the road for a few weeks.

I have encountered 1 problem, and perhaps Clint@RAI can help me with this one. I've got an issue with the passenger side trans mount bracket. 2 of the holes line up, but the third one does not exist on the ASZ trans. The brackets I have came off a 2000 Passat V6 5-speed. The driver's side one is perfect. It is just the lower, forward-most hole that is not there (the one that would be quite near the axle flange). So I have to figure some way to modify either the trans case or (preferably) the bracket to make it work. If it was 3 holes out of 4, that would be OK. But 2 holes out of the 3 doesn't fly. I don't want to be cringing every time I pound 2nd gear thinking it might let go. I'll get some pics of this situation up this weekend if I can.

I know the bracket I got is listed for trans codes DWR and ENP (as well as all the Frontrak codes), but there is a different number for the 1996 cars. I wonder if that one uses the older bolt-up pattern (with the front-most hole not as far forward). I know Mike Hood was running a B3 trans, so perhaps he knows of some magic to make this work.

Jc61990
02-26-2011, 03:33 PM
i know u pm'd me once. but if you're still looking for a CF driveshaft. i have one just sitting in my shed

ThatA4T
02-26-2011, 03:47 PM
Thanks Clint. I'll certainly let you know if have any other questions.

@Austin: Yeah, I plan on doing a bunch of stuff while I'm in there. I'm actually planning on pulling the engine and the trans together. I'm doing a full t-belt kit, water pump, all the front seals, rear main seal, trans input and output shaft seals, re-adjust my wastegate actuator rod, revamp the PCV a bit, front shocks and ECS coilover kit, clean the bay with some wire tuck where possible, paint the VC and intake manifold, drop the pan and clean the oil pickup. Lots of stuff.

Sounds a lot like what im in the process of haha just try not to keep finding things to replace "while its out..." and end up broke like me haha still need a few pieces then ill be back together lol

P.S and im even in a minivan dd for the time being lol

Scotty@Advanced
02-26-2011, 04:07 PM
ALL 01a's are interchangeable.

This is not true. True for the B5 but not true for 01A's in general. The early 01A's had a different final drive, and the B6 01A's mounted differently meaning modifications to retro into a later/earlier car.

The carbon shafts are actually heavier than the steel units, so there really is no benefit to carbon unless you just want bragging rights or something.

walky_talky20
02-26-2011, 06:52 PM
Yep. I got a steel driveshaft. I believe it is out of a '00 B5 V6. Same car the axles came from probably. I've got an '01 so I needed V6 axles. The shifter is the exciting part for me, as that is the part that "interfaces" you with the 5-speed. I got to shift through the gears in the donor car. Felt SOOOOO good!

M-Hood
02-27-2011, 09:44 AM
I know Mike Hood was running a B3 trans, so perhaps he knows of some magic to make this work.

I am not running the actual B3 coupe transmission but more of a hybrid. I had the B3 coupe gears put into my B5 gear box which has the 3.89 final, allowing me to use my stock 3.89 rear end.
So I ended up with the same 3rd-5th gear as my stock gearing but with a taller 1st-2nd.
Now I have a 1st very close to the 2.8 and 2nd gear that is between a 1.8t and 2.8. Giving me a much closer ratio for 2nd/3rd.

walky_talky20
02-27-2011, 11:21 AM
Oh, interesting. I'm hoping that they will work nicely with the 4.11's. Can't wait to find out.

EuroDriven
02-27-2011, 01:07 PM
If you need b5 v6 transmission brackets PM me, I have a couple just sitting around you could use. I could ship them out any time this week.

walky_talky20
02-27-2011, 01:12 PM
If you need b5 v6 transmission brackets PM me, I have a couple just sitting around you could use. I could ship them out any time this week.

PM'ed.

Audiobahn95
06-15-2015, 06:08 PM
Im working on a 98 late model 2.8 automatic to manual swap. The 2.8 is an automatic quattro, and the transmission that is going into it is an 01a from a 98 1.8t. are their any parts besides crankshaft that I would need to get. The transmission has the 5sp stick assembly connected already, but it will not bolt onto the automatic crank because it is to short, so does the rest of the drivetrain need to be replaced? are there any of the parts in the rear of the cars drivetrain that doesnt need to be swapped, im pretty sure that I will need to but passenger side and drivers side transmission brackets. If you could help with this that would be great.
thanks

M-Hood
06-16-2015, 08:29 AM
Im working on a 98 late model 2.8 automatic to manual swap. The 2.8 is an automatic quattro, and the transmission that is going into it is an 01a from a 98 1.8t. are their any parts besides crankshaft that I would need to get. The transmission has the 5sp stick assembly connected already, but it will not bolt onto the automatic crank because it is to short, so does the rest of the drivetrain need to be replaced? are there any of the parts in the rear of the cars drivetrain that doesnt need to be swapped, im pretty sure that I will need to but passenger side and drivers side transmission brackets. If you could help with this that would be great.
thanks

You will need to check your rear diff to see if it is a 4.11, 3.73 or 3.889. If it isn't a 3.889 then you will need to swap it out for one.

toast_king
06-17-2015, 06:31 AM
You will need to check your rear diff to see if it is a 4.11, 3.73 or 3.889. If it isn't a 3.889 then you will need to swap it out for one.

when it comes to the rear diff, are there any that are interchangeable with our cars? I understand the need for the 3.889 gearing, but im asking if we can use a rear diff from a passat or something. not ones that need modification, but direct bolt ons. I'm having trouble finding a diff near me.

M-Hood
06-17-2015, 07:13 AM
when it comes to the rear diff, are there any that are interchangeable with our cars? I understand the need for the 3.889 gearing, but im asking if we can use a rear diff from a passat or something. not ones that need modification, but direct bolt ons. I'm having trouble finding a diff near me.

Not 100% sure about the Passat All Motion, it might be the same but you would have to look up the part numbers.


You can use a rear diff off any B5 A4 1.8t or 2.8 that have the 01A 5 speed transmission, you will also need the drive shaft so it is just easier to get the rear diff and drive shaft from the same car you get the 5 speed transmission from. I actually just got done taking my 5 speed trans, rear diff and drive shaft out of my B5 A4 1.8t to replace them with a 3.0 01E 6 speed, 4.11 A4 1.8t Auto rear diff and a aluminum 1 piece B5 S4 2.7t drive shaft.

The B5 Automatic transmission drive shafts are shorter, well the front half of it is since the automatic transmission is longer then the 5 speed.

bruejones
11-27-2016, 02:40 PM
B3 01A apparently has the 4.11 final drive. This would allow a manual swap w/o the rear dif. Shorter gears over all though.

I've looked on EBAY and the rear differentials are around $300 to $600 dollars...Good Grief!