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View Full Version : Replacing Center Carrier Bearing



egabriele1
11-15-2010, 10:16 AM
I have searched and read every article having to do with the center carrier bearing. I am fairly certain this is the culprit of my clunking sound. I am wondering what technique everyone has used to separate the driveshaft. One post had said something about using a right angle piece of Iron, but with no pictures I am having a hard time understanding exactly how this piece of right angle was utilized. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Erich

Seerlah
11-15-2010, 11:39 AM
PM sent

egabriele1
11-16-2010, 03:30 AM
Ok, well since no one really has any input on how to split the drive shaft and replace the carrier bearing......How about some good places to pick up a complete reconditioned Drive shaft??

Thanks,
Erich

MCKAYIVA4
11-16-2010, 06:50 AM
subscribed. I have the same issue. Looking at the driveshaft there is a bolt in the middle of the rear yoke of the front part of the driveshaft. Is it possible to remove this bolt, slide off the yoke followed by the center bearing? If so where can i locate a new center bushing?

egabriele1
11-16-2010, 02:58 PM
You can get the new carrier bearing from 034 motorsports, about 100 bucks. Looks like you can possibly place a wedge between the two driveshaft places with the bolt in (loose) and hit the top of the wedge with a sledge to start two separate. Loosen the bolt as the driveshaft starts to come apart.

MCKAYIVA4
11-17-2010, 01:57 PM
i found it on their site . thanks for the heads up

avantmatt
01-18-2011, 07:22 PM
How do you split the two shafts to replace the center support

colony7
01-18-2011, 09:32 PM
theres a circlip in the hinged area you have to remove, just like a cv joint

egabriele1
01-19-2011, 03:22 PM
"Circlip"? Negative. Take the drive shaft and bend it at the u-joint not quite to 90 degrees but so you can get at the bolt that is in the center of the U-joint. Soak that bolt with liquid wrench or whatever you prefer. Back the bolt out a bit, take a punch or something comparable and hit the top of the bolt while holding the drive shaft between your feet, by hitting the bolt you should begin to separate the two pieces of the drive shaft. Every so often give the bolt a few more turns to allow more space for the bolt to move inwards. Once you start to see the spline shaft mark each half as a reference for re-assembly purposes. Other people have used a sort of wedge to obtain the same goal, this worked better for me. Just a word of caution though, I bought a used drive shaft and then replaced the center carrier bushing. Above 45 miles and hour and above a get a terrible humming sound now and some vibration...I took the drive shaft back out and replaced both CV joints on either end of the Drive shaft..... the humming and vibration are still there. Maybe the used drive shaft I got is bent? Maybe a tapped the center carrier bearing on too far and now the bearing is under too much stress?? Or maybe I need to have radial deviation done on the rear diff flange? Either way....make sure the drive shaft is balanced before you do this and don't be surprised when things do not turn out the way you want them to. Can you tell I am frustrated?? Now I am at the point where I am going to buy a new reconditioned drive shaft with the center carrier bearing already attached......we'll have to see what happens!

Good luck to you!!

Fender0122
01-21-2011, 08:10 AM
If the bearing is good but the rubber bushing is sloppy, you could try what I did. Mine was flopping around like a wet noodle and I used 3M window weld to fill in around the bearing. Window weld is a polyurethane caulk that is great for fixing worn mounts. You can find it at any auto parts store for $20. I used it on the two transmission mounts as well and it worked pretty well. Just dont do what I did and jack up the car from one side only...the driveshaft moved slightly to the side and produced a nasty vibration. You can recenter it, though, if that happens by loosening the two bolts on the carrier and run a string from front to back to align it. Eyeballing it worked for me :)

egabriele1
01-21-2011, 11:18 AM
Please explain this "String " method to me. I may try one more time to align the shaft to see if it gets rid of the vibration/humming problem. I figure its worth a shot before a spend another 500 on a new reconditioned one. I am also wondering if I could have possibly tapped the new bearing on too far or not straight or something.

Thanks for your reply.

Fender0122
01-23-2011, 12:15 PM
I would just tie a string from the transmission to the rear diff and try to get it aligned in the middle and without touching anything. May need to put a block or something so the string is below everything else, but basically find a way to run a string from front to back so you can visually see a straight line to align the drive shaft with. It's kinda crude, but may help. Good luck!