View Full Version : Is the distribution block fused?

11-08-2010, 09:33 AM

Are any of these fused? I need 12v when the key is in the "on" position. I need the 12v to wire my EFK and Boost solenoid.

Right now they're just connected to the wiper fuse.

Can I use the blank spots in the fuse box, the ones without terminals, and just add terminals? Where do I get the 12v source?


11-08-2010, 10:06 AM
I believe you can use the 75x post. Why not just tap a fuse?

11-08-2010, 10:28 AM
I believe you can use the 75x post. Why not just tap a fuse?

this. there are a couple (at least on my car) empty fuse slots, and i know one of them is switched power.

11-08-2010, 01:27 PM
yeah use the 75x post and put a fuse inline, its NEVER safe to use a fuse that is integrated into the distribution box because if that fuse fails there is a ton of other items that run off that

11-09-2010, 02:23 AM
Thanks for the info. I believe I didn't use 75x for my UEGO, iirc its one of the 30s. But it didn't have any wires like in the picture. I'll just transfer it to the 75x as well.

Won't I overload the 75x when I use it to power the ff:

2. Boost solenoid
3. Radiator fan
4. Other things I might think of (foglights maybe.)

11-09-2010, 07:28 PM
You can safely tap fuses, not a problem. You just have to know what you are doing. Want to tap the washer nozzle heater fuse, sounds good to me. Fuel pump fuse? Not so much.

NONE of those terminals in the central electric (30, 30, 30, 75X) are fused. They all are unfused, all the way to the battery. Whatever you connect there should have a fuse very close to the terminal. Like within a few inches, for safety.

As far as overloading the 75X: There is some overhead built in. The circuit is run by a relay, so it can take some load. The weak point is going to be the wiring. You can add a little, but I wouldn't overdo it. It is fine for small stuff: gauges, solenoid, fog lamp relays, etc. I wouldn't feel comfortable adding more than about a 15A draw onto it. Any more than that and I would recommend using a relay with a source that comes directly from the battery using your own wire. For your radiator fan and fog lamps specifically, I would recommend you add a relay for each of those with it's own power wire to the battery (or they can share a large one).

The reason I am cautious is because there is no fuses to protect you here. If you overload it, you don't just trip a breaker or blow a fuse, you melt down the wire harness. It just isn't worth it. Unless you want to calculate the maximum draw on the circuit, then compare that against the gauge and length of the wire, with respect to it's proximity to other wires in the harness, just do it right and run a wire for the big power items.

11-09-2010, 11:23 PM
I would recommend you add a relay for each of those with it's own power wire to the battery (or they can share a large one).

Forgot that I can add a relay lol. Thanks for reminding me.

Do you know which wire is directly connected to the battery? I want to keep everything in the dashboard to reduce clutter. Instead of putting a fuse box near the battery.

11-10-2010, 03:18 PM
Anything labeled "30" there (the red wires) goes directly to the battery. But those wires are already being used. To put it another way, those wires are already at their design capacity. You can't just add high power items like lights and fans using the factory wiring. You have to (should) have your own wires from the battery to do it. Will you be fine with using a 30 terminal for a source with your relay? Probably. Will I recommend it to run a cooling fan and a set of fog lamps? No. This is my suggestion, but you can do it however you like. Good Luck!

11-10-2010, 07:18 PM
Thanks for the info [:D]