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yuriy
09-27-2010, 02:30 PM
So i recently got a good deal on a decent set up. I have everything, amp, sub box and a wiring kit, however i dont have a deck. Its not that i dont want to buy one, i just cant find any that flow nicely with the stock interior and dont stick out too much. Now, what would be the best way for me to get RCA outputs? The guy that sold me the set up threw in some sort of box that taps into your rear speakers and has RCA outputs coming out of it, but it has no instructions so i dont really know how to hook it up/where.. Does anyone know a better way to get RCA outputs from the stock Symphony deck? Or atleast how to wire the box thing (SLOC by Stinger)? It has 5 wires; White and white with a stripe, grey and grey with a stripe and a brown wire.. Thanks.

xRAYx
09-27-2010, 02:38 PM
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec28.shtml

cdowns13
09-27-2010, 03:05 PM
yeah that box is a line converter! read the install (i dont feel like reading it..) Saddly you will not get the same response out of the sub as you would with a new headunit.. i did this, then got the head unit i wanted and its not even comparable.. the converter just doesnt have enough power to give out to the RCAs.. i was disappointed.. and i have gotten better responses out of other cars (done prob. 15 installs in all :D )

if you have any more questions you can PM me if you like

yuriy
09-27-2010, 03:10 PM
Thanks for the replies guys. I know i should really get a new head unit but as i said before, nothing on the market right now satisfies my taste. So how exactly would i hook up that converter box, do i need to splice into both speakers? How would i manage this with the left speaker since it has a stock amp attatched to it?

cdowns13
09-27-2010, 03:19 PM
you have to splice into the two wires (havent seen it in a while) but you splice into the two wires going from the little box type thing to the speaker.. or go straight to the right speaker and tap into those wires.. you have to find out what is pos. and neg.. get a 9v battery.. if you connect the pos to pos and neg to neg on the speaker from the battery.. the speaker will push out.. if it moves inwards, then you have it hooked up backwards (handy little trick and will NOT hurt the speaker) then use wires off those leads to your converter.. it will have all proper markings to plug things in on it..

yuriy
09-27-2010, 03:41 PM
Alright thanks. I need to tap both speakers though, right?

cdowns13
09-27-2010, 04:33 PM
umm you can but never really got the other "channel" to work usually ends up bring one RCA into the amp.. dont really need a left/right (yeah this all sounds weird i know) but since it is a single sub/ mono amp.. one rca will give you some.. but give it a go with both maybe youll get it.. i never have all 4 tries :/

yuriy
09-27-2010, 06:28 PM
Ok so i just looked at both speakers..The one on the right is easy; it has 2 wires and thats it. The one on the left however has the amp on it. Does it matter if i tap after the amp or before the amp?

cdowns13
09-27-2010, 08:15 PM
after for the same signal from both sets of wires

Cybersombosis
09-27-2010, 08:20 PM
You don't need a high to low level converter as there is already a low level signal at the driver's rear speaker that you can splice into. If you use a line converter you are taking a low level signal from your head unit, converting it to a high level signal through the stock amp, then converting it back to a low level signal with your hi-low converter, then converting it back to a high level signal through your new amp to your speakers. If you hook it up with the below method, you take a low level signal from your head unit and your new amp converts it to a high level signal for your speakers eliminating 2 conversions which introduce signal degradation and distortion. So there is no need to tap into both left and right speakers as all the connections are located on the driver's rear speaker. Here is a write up that I did.

As far as adding a sub, I couldn't handle not having one after picking up my A4 at the end of 2009. After much research and looking through the tech article found here http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec.html, there is an easy way to get line-out to your sub amp and it's right at the driver's side rear speaker. This is taken from the tech article which I have added and taken out less important info.

First things first. This worked for me but do this at your own risk. I will not be held responsible if you screw something up. If you don't understand something, then ask before you start snipping wires. This installation does not require you to cut any of your car's wiring so please don't. Tapping means stripping a section of insulation off of the wiring leaving the bare copper wire showing at which point you can solder another wire to it and wrap your work with electrician's tape.

These wire colors worked for me but you may want to verify that they are the same before starting by looking at the back of your wiring harness off the stereo. My OEM stereo had a diagram stuck to it with the wiring diagram.

The rear amp is a smallish thing, normally attached to the rear left speaker in the rear deck plate. There is a connector plugged into the side of the speaker when you drop your drivers side rear seat down.

The brackets represent the slots that slid into the male harness end. The side with the outward piece is the piece I chose as the "top".

________[ ]________
(1) (2)
(3)
(4) (5)
(6)
(7) (8)
________[ ]________

1: White- Switch
2: Red-Blue lead to Right speaker
3: Brown-Red lead Right speaker
4: Red-Blue (thicker): 12v
5: Blue-Green Right pre-amp from head unit.
6: Red-Green Left pre-amp from head unit
7: Brown (thicker) Ground
8: 2 Brown-black Grounds for pre-amp leads.

In order to get line out, you just tap into the pre existing wiring using Scotch locks or stripping the wiring insulation and soldering the connection. These instructions will assume you are soldering the connections.

1. Take a set of RCA cables and cut one set of ends off making sure there is enough length to reach the amp.

2. Strip the end exposing about an inch of both the inner core and ground (outer metal sheathing). Do this for both ends then twist the grounds together from the left and right channel.

3. Strip the insulation off of the Blue/Green, Red/Green, and 1 of the Brown/Black wiring from the connector leading to the rear speaker using a razor knife. Do not cut the wires.

4. While you're under there, go ahead and strip the white wire on the connector for the amp's remote turn on.

5. Get a length of small gauge wire for your remote turn on and strip one end.

6. Get your connections ready for soldering by twisting the right RCA's inner core to the Blue/Green wire's stripped section. Then twist the left RCA's inner core to the Red/Green. Then the RCA's twisted ground from the left and right channel to Brown/Black. Finally twist the remote wire to the white wire.

7. Solder and tape up your work.

In order to get power to the amp, I ran a heavy gauge wire from the battery to the trunk. I ran ground to one of the bolts underneath the rear seat.

If you have any questions fire away. Good luck.

Doug

cdowns13
09-27-2010, 09:43 PM
never thought about it that way good thinking! .. some line level converters do have amplifiers built in to increase the signal.. but those are a bit expensive :/ $100+ (which i need to improve my 3v output for my beast in the trunk) but yeah if you only feel like buying RCA's and saving a bit of money.. do that! haha sound cleaner to do....

just a thought to cybersom.. could you use the two ground wires and put them straight to a ground to the chassis/body or whatever for cleaner sound, or is the wire you said to hook those grounds to a - from the battery? I know i have some friends who wrap their outlets for the rcas in the back of their headunits (aftermarket) in wire and ground them to the chassis for better sound..

Cybersombosis
09-27-2010, 10:15 PM
They all lead to the same ground source so yes you could do that but there is no need. The ground in the connector is right there so it's easy to get to and produces a clean install. After my sub and amp install and fiddling with the hidden EQ in my stock Symphony head unit, I am completely happy with the sound quality. This is coming from my previous install of a Pioneer Premier head unit with Boston Acoustic Pro series separates and sub and Phoenix Gold power. It makes all the difference in the world when you turn down the lower frequencies in your front stage in the hidden EQ and letting your sub handle those lower frequencies so that it's not rattling the door panels off. That was so annoying at first until I found out about the hidden EQ and tweaked the numbers. It actually brings the sound stage back to the front. I'm just so glad I don't have to do an entire install of all my hardware again. If the stock speakers blow then I guess I'll just have to do it but until then, the stockers (+ sub) are totally working for me!!!

Doug

PS. Most amps have a built in voltage gain so you can up the signal or decrease the signal based on how much voltage the low level RCA's are putting out.

yuriy
09-28-2010, 01:16 PM
Thanks for the info Cybersombosis, after reading that i decided ill do it your way. However, did you do that on a Symphony I radio or another one? Because if it wasnt that means i have to find a diagram for the SYmphony radio. Also, take a look at my cables, how di i tell which wires are the ground? Inside each cable there are 2 wires a blue and a silver, in a weawing pattern.
http://i51.tinypic.com/sg68ea.jpg

cdowns13
09-28-2010, 02:55 PM
those only work to a certain extent on the amps though :/ i do competitions and such, if you up it too much.. you get too much distortion thus blowing your sub or speakers (iv blown 5 haha, i run mine hard!) but def good input :D

yuriy
09-28-2010, 03:04 PM
ok so i took the jack apart and noticed that the silver wire attatches to the ring around the connection and the blue wire attatches to the actual pin. Does this mean that the silver wire is ground?
http://i54.tinypic.com/2n0k8q8.jpg

Baseballer
09-28-2010, 03:13 PM
I know this is no help at all, but really you should just get a deck. I messed around with converters for awhile, and they sometimes caused me a good deal of hassle. Deck sounds way better too :D

Cybersombosis
09-28-2010, 03:19 PM
Yes it is a stock Symphony I non Bose OEM head unit. If you want to verify your colors before you proceed, you need to remove your head unit and check what colors are coming out of the wiring harness against the picture on the head unit. Also if you drop your rear driver's side seat down, the connector is attached to driver's side rear speaker. The stock amp is just a PCB with a connector on it. Nothing fancy at all.

As far as your RCA's are concerned the only way to know for sure is to cut one the length you need and check for continuity. If you have a volt/ohm meter, digital or analog, switch it to resistor and touch one end to the connector's center pin and start touching the exposed wires you just cut. If you get a reading or a sweep of your meter, then that color is your signal and by default, the other color is your ground (the metal on the outside of the connector).

For me, in addition to adding a sub, I also wanted MP3 capabilities so I added a digital CD changer like this
http://www3.telus.net/~dougkong/Audi/CDchanger.jpg
that plugs into the cd changer port on the back of your stock stereo. You can control the fast forward and rewind etc. with the OEM deck which is one of the reasons why I wanted this thing. I didn't want the big stereo and wanted to keep everything looking stock. The head unit thinks that a CD changer is installed so you take an SD card and load it up into 6 directories with up to 99 mp3s in each folder. I installed mine in my glove compartment and can access it on the fly. I got it here http://www.car-cd-changer.net/...d=450 (http://www.car-cd-changer.net/en/product/product-more.asp?id=450) and they were very nice to deal with. It's a great alternative to getting an Enfig adapter, getting an Ipod, then getting holder for the Ipod. I didn't want to have to invest in all that hardware so I went this route and it all looks completely stock. I think I paid around 100USD shipped to my door.

Doug

Cybersombosis
09-28-2010, 03:21 PM
ok so i took the jack apart and noticed that the silver wire attatches to the ring around the connection and the blue wire attatches to the actual pin. Does this mean that the silver wire is ground?


Yes silver is ground.

Doug

yuriy
09-28-2010, 03:24 PM
Alright thanks, im gonna go check my radio now.

yuriy
09-29-2010, 06:38 PM
Well everything worked flawlessly, and sounded amazing till something went up in smoke and im guessing its my sub since the amp lights up and the fan turns on. The sub was garbage anyways. Time to get a proper sub now :D

Cybersombosis
09-29-2010, 07:55 PM
Well I'm glad the install went well for you. Where did you hook up power for the amp? Before you go out and spend money on a new speaker maybe test the amp out with a small home speaker just to make sure that it was the speaker that popped and not your amp. Let us know what you find out.

Doug

RippleChip
09-30-2010, 05:14 AM
Another option for those looking to do this is a blaupunkt adapter that goes in the back of the stock headunit and gives the RCA leads, no need to do any tapping into the rear speaker.

FNK
09-30-2010, 09:57 AM
Another option for those looking to do this is a blaupunkt adapter that goes in the back of the stock headunit and gives the RCA leads, no need to do any tapping into the rear speaker.

Aint the Blaupunkt adapter only for Blaupunkt headunit? I've been looking for that one!

cdowns13
09-30-2010, 10:14 AM
was the gain set correctly on the amp? bass boost on the amp all the way down? if these were pumped :/ not good! just some helpful sub hints :D http://reaudio.com/home.html http://www.ddaudio.com/ (<brand i have and is what is heavily used in the competition world) and https://ssl.perfora.net/ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154ca4c4e987ba8/shopdata/index.shopscript these are all MUCH better than JL audio crap all these companies are mostly non mainstream as far as im concerned but all REALLY great subs.. well built and all willing to help.. let me know if you need any more info on these :D

yuriy
09-30-2010, 02:56 PM
So turns out my amp is fried, and not the sub. Kinda sucks but i guess ill bring it back to the guy who sold it to me and get a new one.

Cybersombosis
09-30-2010, 07:55 PM
Holy crap. How did you do that? Where did you take power from? Where did you ground it? I find it quite surprising that you blew the amp after a couple minutes. How old is it? What brand is it? What were you doing/playing when it blew? There maybe a problem with your install so before you go and hook up another working amp, you need to find out if the install is at fault. Just trying to save you time and money before you spend it.

Doug

yuriy
10-01-2010, 09:30 PM
I bought it of my buddy at work, hes an audio engineer. The amp was fixed before and according to him he did a bad job fixing it. Got a new one and its all good now :D

Cybersombosis
10-03-2010, 08:48 PM
How does it sound? Have you played around with the hidden EQ yet?

Doug

yuriy
10-04-2010, 01:20 PM
It sounds amazing, i love it :D my settings are 88698869, i havent had time to play around yet. Would you know what the best settings are?

Cybersombosis
10-04-2010, 08:26 PM
I think the setting are all personal preference. If it sounds amazing to you then that's all that matters. Mine also sound awesome and I don't know why so many say to get an aftermarket deck and move away from the OEM look. I'm lovin it!!!

Doug

RippleChip
10-05-2010, 09:23 AM
Aint the Blaupunkt adapter only for Blaupunkt headunit? I've been looking for that one!

I use this adapter in the back of my Symphony headunit to get the RCA leads.