PDA

View Full Version : Project Papa Smurf Version 2.0 - Better, Bigger, Badder



Pages : [1] 2 3

RONDAL
09-05-2010, 02:19 PM
Hopefully this will find its way to the S4 Projects and Builds Section....mods[:)]
*maybe someone can get rid of the 90 day stuff as well


Maybe a quick introduction, new to the Audi community after coming over from the VW scene.
My previous project was a 1997 GTi VR6 Drivers Edition in Jazz Blue. Owned the car for 7 years and did an extensive amount of work to it (along with an extensive build thread ) that turned it from a completely stock car to a 400+hp VR-Turbo beast that was passing almost everything but gas stations.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3571869


Wustefest before I sold the original smurf
http://www.vwvortex.com/gallery/albums//Events/Enthusiast/Wustefest/2010/Wustefest-2010-14.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4570125996_29d41bf6a0_b.jpg

After doing the 6500km drive from Canada to Vegas and back...following a b5 S4 a friend of mine owned, I made the decision I wanted a new toy/project that was a little more grown up. It had gotten a little embaressing picking up coworkers in a car with racing seats and an open dump exhaust, and the GTi was just no longer practical. I swore to myself however that I culdn't go back to a slower car, so something would have to be done.
I had been looking at a b6 s4 avant for the longest time, the v8 sounded pretty cool and the wagon practicality just fit the bill. When i found out I could get the 2.7TT in a b5 the search was on. I never thought I would find a nogaro wagon...i loved the blue...as you can tell from my previous car, but I never thought I'd find one as they are a little like the great white buffalo.

With some help from a buddy who works for a dealership, and a lot of looking online in the US for cars, i found an original owner b5 s4 nogaro avant. Did the cross border shopping thing and had the thing imported within a month of arriving home from Wustefest.
Car has 140k on it, and is in almost mint condition. There is a little work that needs to be done on the front and rear bumpers, and the back hatch due to the original owner having a kayak on the roof a lot and opening the hatch into it.

Other than that though the engine pulls hard, with no issues. The interior is flawless and overall im very happy to use it as a foundation for what I want to do.

What do I want to do? Well thats easy. I want a 450awhp wagon that maintains all of the creature comforts and luxuries that I have come to love with the Audi.
As with my first build, this isn't a weight saving, cost saving project. it's about doing it right the first time so I dont have to live with the headaches down the road.


Introducing Smurf Version 2.0

This is from the night after I got the car back to Canada....notice the crubbed stock wheels and the 4x4 status.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4807770460_a089d0cb89_b.jpg

Apparently I supported Obama in 2008.....though I dont think he would be his clean air policy would be a fan of my plans for the car

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4807144509_bf6c184581_b.jpg

And the interior...in brand new condition

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4807771416_8fe6d010c5_b.jpg


With the car I got a 3" thick folder complete with every receipt and piece of paper that had to do with the car, including original brochures and sales receipt.
Not very many people that buy cars that are 9 years old get that with a car. Its nice to know that the previous owner was as meticulous as I am with cars.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4146/4960876361_95798238ef_b.jpg


So the plans.....

Tial 605's
034 3" DP's
AWE Twin1 Exhaust
19" BBS LMs
KW V1 Coilovers
Hotchkiss Front and Rear Sway Bars
Stern Motor Mounts
034 Snub Mount
034 Tranny Mount
JHM Transmission Brace
Bosch EV14 60lb injectors
Eurodyne Maestro 7 Tuning Suite
Upgrade the MAF
ER intercoolers
VAST bi-pipes
Cayenne Brembo 6 piston brakes
AEM meth injection kit
SouthBend Stage 3 ENDURANCE clutch (dont know if this will be enough?)
Bosch 044 drop in fuel pump
Upgraded metal slave cylinder w/ braided clutch line

While the engine is out I'm also planning on:
Upgrading Water pump
Timing Belt
CV joints/axles
Crank Seal
Cam Seals
Shifter linkage


The good news....
The coilvers are already in, the downpipes I brought back with me when i got the car, and the turbos have already been ordered and should be arriving in a few weeks.
Now its just matter of collecting the rest of the pieces, so that I have every single thing I need before I tear the car apart, bag and tag everything, and go about turning this "fanny pack" into something that scares the living $hit out of me.


Stay tuned for more.
[:D]

S4 Big Head
09-05-2010, 02:31 PM
So sick... cannot wait to see how this turns out [up]

CELison
09-05-2010, 02:32 PM
Tial noggy avant. awsome build [up]

The_Jerbel
09-05-2010, 02:37 PM
[o_o] I had no idea...

witwer4444
09-05-2010, 02:38 PM
Awesome

stew44
09-05-2010, 03:49 PM
Beauty. Welcome to the dark side.

audikidS4
09-05-2010, 04:05 PM
Extremely nice color combo - love the interior - this car will build-out very nice indeed! Congrats...

RONDAL
09-05-2010, 06:05 PM
i guess i should start with some questions;

1. anywhere else i can buy ER intercoolers other than JHM?
2. any maintainance stuff i should be doing while the engine is out that i haven't already listed?
3. what kind of boost levels am i looking at if i want to be making 450awhp on the tials?
4. i wasn't planning on doing rods, pistons, etc. as i didn't want to get too deep into the motor. otherwise i would have gone GT28's and been done with it (and my bank account). is not doing rods going to be an issue with that kind of power?

thanks

gearhead1186
09-05-2010, 06:30 PM
TiALs http://www.myemoticons.com/images/emotions/happy/raise-the-roof.gif

RONDAL
09-05-2010, 06:43 PM
haha gearhead. your build thread was one which i was (am still) following quite religiously to see how things went with the Tials. I was slightly disappointed when you didn't end up going with them in the end, but the new ones are sick

gearhead1186
09-05-2010, 06:49 PM
haha gearhead. your build thread was one which i was (am still) following quite religiously to see how things went with the Tials. I was slightly disappointed when you didn't end up going with them in the end, but the new ones are sick

thanks. still got TiALS.. just 770s. below are two build threads that used 605s.

As4driver's EPL Built TiaL 605 (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/363834-As4driver-s-EPL-Tial-605-Build!!!)

Flyingfish EPL Tial 605 (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/371493-Flyingfish-Tial-605-build-thread-EPL-tuning)

Flyingfish actually has my rebuilt 605s on his car up in Colorado and I believe As4driver has the first built 605 car.

gearhead1186
09-05-2010, 06:55 PM
i guess i should start with some questions;

1. anywhere else i can buy ER intercoolers other than JHM?
2. any maintainance stuff i should be doing while the engine is out that i haven't already listed?
3. what kind of boost levels am i looking at if i want to be making 450awhp on the tials?
4. i wasn't planning on doing rods, pistons, etc. as i didn't want to get too deep into the motor. otherwise i would have gone GT28's and been done with it (and my bank account). is not doing rods going to be an issue with that kind of power?

thanks

you can get ERs straight from Evolution Racewerks. You will probably see 25-26 lbs of boost with a stock block. 605s were meant to be bolted to a stock block and 450+ is being pushed through stock blocks all the time.

RONDAL
09-05-2010, 07:14 PM
i like the sound of that. yea i've followed those other 2 build threads as well. sucks i cant get in there to comment. *cough* mods *cough*.
im hoping the 605's are good for the 450-480 i'd like to see at the wheels with meth and 94.

stllboostin
09-06-2010, 05:29 AM
subscribed...looking to do the same with my avant...hopefully you get some good numbers..(rods = insurance my 0.02 cents)

NishadJoshi
09-06-2010, 09:18 AM
I'm growing to like wagons more and more everytime I see 'em.

MLFHNTR
09-06-2010, 09:21 AM
wow, like wow that thing is immaculate. minus the bumper stickers... i mean

RONDAL
09-06-2010, 11:48 AM
the bumper stickers are gone. was the first duty of business. but not before some fun photoshoot stuff with the obama sticker still on.

What MAF are most people running for the RS6/Tial/GT setups? the 85mm mitsu?

Dutchsider
09-06-2010, 12:07 PM
Welcome fellow MKIII convert

93accordex
09-06-2010, 12:42 PM
nice. I had a similar story to yours, and I'm glad I waited for the blue/blue wagon. Yours is going to be sweet when it's done.

jesters22
09-06-2010, 01:41 PM
i wish my nogaro was an avant, i coulda got one if my insurance check came 2 weeks prior...

GramCracker
09-06-2010, 02:53 PM
wow, awesome car man! avants FTMFW

Turbo1A4
09-06-2010, 05:07 PM
very sick build!
i cant wait to see the final product

drkenan
09-06-2010, 07:21 PM
Fuck me! I want an Avant sssooooo bad!

RolledMySTi
09-06-2010, 10:11 PM
Welcome. Sounds like a sweet build!

jibberjive
09-06-2010, 10:58 PM
Nice man. Will be sick, GL!

RONDAL
09-08-2010, 07:21 AM
where is the best place for STERN mounts?

GramCracker
09-08-2010, 08:31 AM
where is the best place for STERN mounts?

VAST, they have great pricing and are quick to ship [up] Thats where I ordered mine from.

gearhead1186
09-08-2010, 08:34 AM
where is the best place for STERN mounts?

got mine from PureMS

The_Jerbel
09-08-2010, 09:05 AM
where is the best place for STERN mounts?

Drop me an email and I'll help you out.

RONDAL
09-10-2010, 11:45 AM
does anyone ceramic coat their hotside housings to keep heat down and away from the transmission tunnel (your right calf and knee)?

RONDAL
10-13-2010, 08:10 PM
has anyone run tial 605's on race gas yet?
looking for some power results.

RONDAL
11-23-2010, 04:09 PM
It's been waaaaay too long since an update....and it still hasn't been moved to the build section.

What can brown do for you? A heck of a lot.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5246/5202217937_fc671bbb91_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4106/5202814872_4f937ec7fc_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4111/5202816744_a2fdc2b488_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/5202818172_a6bcb12d8d_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5043/5202819526_74e6a5231e_b.jpg


The twins have arrived.

Waiting on some other parts to arrive hopefully later this week.

NogaroAvant
11-23-2010, 04:17 PM
Looking good man. I still have my MK3 VR and love my Nogaro Avant. Welcome to the club.

Turbo1A4
11-23-2010, 05:39 PM
its like heaven

gearhead1186
11-23-2010, 05:40 PM
looking good. billet is sexy.

RONDAL
11-23-2010, 06:09 PM
thanks mike.
im sure i'll be bugging you a fair bit in the coming days haha.

SomeDayAS4
11-23-2010, 09:30 PM
wow cant wait to see the tearing apart begin for this build

cjernigan
11-23-2010, 10:59 PM
You should do your auxillary water pump while you have it all apart. Many people run the 034 MAF housing or whosever you like with the hitachi sensor. No reason to use the RS4 Bosch unit that fails often. What Southbend clutch did you get?

gearhead1186
11-23-2010, 11:08 PM
You should do your auxillary water pump while you have it all apart. Many people run the 034 MAF housing or whosever you like with the hitachi sensor. No reason to use the RS4 Bosch unit that fails often. What Southbend clutch did you get?

agreed on the pump. one of many "while you are in there" parts. EPL supplies an 85mm CNC MAF housing with their fueling kit.

EDIT: my mistake. i thought he was on EPL fueling. multiple 605 builds going on now.

RONDAL
11-24-2010, 01:30 AM
aux pump, timing belts, DV's, acc belts, new clutch fans, etc. are all part of a box that should be arriving on Friday.

Then im just waiting on intercoolers, bipipes, injectors, MAF housing, fuel pump and a few odds and ends

Yankeefan7592
11-24-2010, 06:50 AM
Do want everything seen in pics :o

RONDAL
11-25-2010, 02:36 PM
more parts arriving tomorrow. hoping to start pulling engine tomorrow afternoon and have it out and cleaned by Sunday night

RONDAL
12-21-2010, 11:17 PM
So.......after a few setbacks due to incompetence and stupidity of suppliers i tried using, and CTS Turbo's Nik and Clay coming through in the biggest way possible, its finally damn time to start this build thread off properly. I seriously can't say enough good things about CTS. Nik went out of his way to fix the mistakes others made and ensure i got everything i needed, even if they didn't carry or supply the stuff, on time for me when i needed it. I seriously owe both of them big time.

The goal is to have everything back in and buttoned up by new years. This allows me to not have to burn any vacation time finishing the car, so that I can go to Wuste, Leavenworth and Great Canadian in the summer.

I will point out this is my daily driver, so making sure I had all the parts prior to starting was/is crucial. If I start panicking in 10 days time, you know why as well.

So to set the scene. It's December on the Canadian praries, outside air temp today was a balmy -12*C. I'm doing this without a heated garage as well, I have a little electric heater in there. Couldn't get the gas rigged up in time to get this done. I'm working on a Triumph TR6 resoration as well, so I had to do this while that is at the body shop getting painted. Add to the fact I'm juggling a more than full time job, Christmas, and its a little hectic.

I'm photographing everything meticulously for 2 reasons. 1) so i know how to put humpty dumpty smurf back together again, and 2) so i can put together a build thread that hopefully helps others.
I'm bagging and tagging every bolt and piece that comes off the car for easy reinstallation. Having done this before, it saves TONS of time later on.


The digs where this is getting done. Notice the massive pile of boxes on the passenger side of the car. 500hp comes in many boxes!
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5287/5282397530_fe1d81cccf_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5281796571_3dc6fbb228_b.jpg


First step was authenticating the Eurodyne cable and software so i can send Chris Tapp the stock stuff tomorrow and get a base map.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5089/5281797773_0432187387_b.jpg

Next drain the fluids....before they cool down and dont want to come out nice and quick. 15w50 oil turns to peanut butter in these kinds of temps. I park in a heated underground lot most of the time, and dont drive much in the winter, so its not really an issue. 0w40 is going in though so no worries.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5002/5282400018_c28767d30d_b.jpg

The ugly stock engine bay

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5123/5282400866_b5fb00712e_b.jpg


Second step, pull fog light grills, start on outside edge, work way to bottom, then yank the top out. Try not to break clips. This will leave you with just the fog light in place

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5288/5281729425_fc4843cc92_b.jpg


Unbolt the fog light, pull it out of the way and undo the connector for it.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5282333038_1c01c0b73c_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5248/5281734951_67762f04d3_b.jpg


Undress the engine bay of the stupid plastic pieces that cover up everything.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5282338920_1af72f4f7c_b.jpg



Next undo the long bumper bolts in the front air dam area. They are loooong, so they take a bit of time to remove

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5123/5282347218_9cfe8e5dba_b.jpg



Yank both front wheels off, it makes it easier to access the wheel well, and do the axles later on.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5248/5281748203_7e5f53bef1_b.jpg


Undo the 3 torx bolts in each wheel well that connect the bumper edge to the wheel well.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5245/5281750573_660e1b3854_b.jpg



The bumper is now almost ready to come off. All you need now is some frustration and pent up anger.
Using you hip push IN on the bumper while at the same time pulling down on the bottom edge. You do this hard and fast enough like you are humping the front end of the car, and the corner will unclip. Repeat on the other side. This is annoying as all hell to do. I can only imagine how much fun it will be putting it back on.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5288/5281753063_dc565074af_b.jpg

Slide the bumper out from the car about a foot. Be aware that the headlight washer hose is still connected. Grab a spare washer bottle thats empty, and yank the hose off and shove it in the bottle. The washer reservoir will drain into the bottle so you dont end up with it all over the floor. I've got enough melting snow on the floor, i dont need any more moisture.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5044/5282362442_4e053119de_b.jpg

I then pulled bumper fully away from the car, and put it somewhere safe to store.


Once the bumper is removed.....

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5043/5281763549_b25b07eb2b_b.jpg

Time to remove the intercooler shrouds (note the single bolt to undor where the screwdriver is)

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5126/5281770679_6d126dc563_b.jpg

Yank that sucker off there. Its held in on the top and bottom on little spikes that stick through it, it just pulls right off.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5002/5282381650_b416154d08_b.jpg


Time to undo the power steering from the front end. Two bolts, one on front one on driver side. I just let it dangle for now.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5082/5282383936_f613f10a00_b.jpg

Now to remove the air ducting plastic. Single bolt.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/5282391004_bd884ea114_b.jpg

With everything removed. Undo the fan.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5006/5281791879_9a43edbfe3_b.jpg

I looped a zap strap through the eyelet and hung it off to the side. Not the ton of animal fur and feathers stuck against my rad. When I bought the car I found what must have been an old rodent next under the head. There was a ton of fur under there. I dont know if this someone got pulled through the rad or if its just build up from other crap.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5243/5282396918_73ab777a92_b.jpg


This is where I got to in 3 hours this evening plus eating dinner. More to come tomorrow.

bps4
12-21-2010, 11:21 PM
this is great detail man.. can't wait to see more

RONDAL
12-21-2010, 11:28 PM
now when idiots post "how do i remove the front bumper" for the 300th time....and trust me when i searched i found a TON, this lays it all out nicely for them.

Sales@RAI
12-22-2010, 12:17 AM
Might wanna rethink using Victor Reinz HGs. We've had some trouble with them failing

Otherwise great build I'm jealous

CC Lemon
12-22-2010, 03:09 AM
Wow... you make some epic build threads (and builds). A lot of build threads seem to consist of a picture of all the parts, a description of what's going on and then a final picture with all those parts hidden in the engine bay. It's a lot more fun to see a lot of pictures throughout the whole process.

Also wish I could have picked up an avant the more I think about it.

Don Supreme
12-22-2010, 08:30 AM
Hey,

Did your southbend clutch come with pressure plate bolts?

RONDAL
12-22-2010, 08:37 AM
thats a good question. i'll have to have a look.


Anyone know what the STOCK INJECTOR SIZE IS in lb/hr ?

Phillyb7s4
12-22-2010, 08:58 AM
we are going to have twins!!!

RONDAL
12-22-2010, 09:07 AM
copycat!

Pete_S4
12-22-2010, 09:11 AM
Anyone know what the STOCK INJECTOR SIZE IS in lb/hr ?

http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Fuel_injectors

Cobra Commander
12-22-2010, 09:52 AM
Looking good! This thread will be moving fast due to your time crunch, hope it works out well!

DiscoPotato
12-22-2010, 11:20 AM
i guess i should start with some questions;

1. anywhere else i can buy ER intercoolers other than JHM?
2. any maintainance stuff i should be doing while the engine is out that i haven't already listed?
3. what kind of boost levels am i looking at if i want to be making 450awhp on the tials?
4. i wasn't planning on doing rods, pistons, etc. as i didn't want to get too deep into the motor. otherwise i would have gone GT28's and been done with it (and my bank account). is not doing rods going to be an issue with that kind of power?

thanks

I would also do cam tensioners. They are always overlooked and when they go bad they could cause serious problems.

And welcome the B5 S4 community!

DiscoPotato
12-22-2010, 11:23 AM
Might wanna rethink using Victor Reinz HGs. We've had some trouble with them failing

Otherwise great build I'm jealous

Glad I know this now (sarcasm). I literally just put in a set about a week ago. Can you please pm me with details?

^@ViVid
12-22-2010, 11:27 AM
Beautiful, good luck with the build man.

RONDAL
12-22-2010, 11:27 AM
i skipped the cam tensioners. I'd quicker buy a lower mileage motor and redo that to a 3L before spending $1200 on cam tensioners. those things are prohibitivly expensive.

Sales@RAI
12-22-2010, 12:46 PM
Glad I know this now (sarcasm). I literally just put in a set about a week ago. Can you please pm me with details?

I'll leave it on here to help everyone. We have just had some Victor Reinz parts fail including rear main seals. Ends up costing us a good amount to warranty rear main seals. I would stick with Elring

ColinAndrews
12-22-2010, 12:59 PM
Wow dude, super ambitious time line. I'm impressed that you're going to get it done that fast. How much time do you have off, just one week?

Seeing this makes me wish I had built not bought, although nearly every build thread does that. I don't even have time to FIX my problems let alone build a car right now.

Good stuff. I will likely refer to this thread for pictures of stuff when I pull my engine in the spring.

RONDAL
12-22-2010, 01:30 PM
i have all next week off.
Hoping to have the engine out by tomorrow night (taking tonite off for a concert).
Out thursday, seperate and clean everything on friday.
Start reassembling things on saturday and through next week. Gives me a full week of rebuilding time.
Send to welder to get exhaust mated up on the 3rd.

JarrettJettaVR6
12-22-2010, 01:56 PM
wow good luck man! i read every word and page of your turbo build thread back in the day..i'm still a vr guy at heart, new longblock going in now, and turbo build this year i hope

i'm also over here now with my daily b6 dolphin grey s4 avant

can't wait to see what you do with this one

RONDAL
12-22-2010, 01:57 PM
^ i'll be sure to throw some fresca cans into the mix on this one too. Looking back at that old thread.....damn i drank a lot of fresca haha

JarrettJettaVR6
12-22-2010, 02:40 PM
^ i'll be sure to throw some fresca cans into the mix on this one too. Looking back at that old thread.....damn i drank a lot of fresca haha

totally forgot about that aspect of the read, i was pretty pumped about the vacuum exhaust bypass valve from a bmw i believe, can't remember exactly, that thread will certainly be a resource for during my build

RONDAL
12-22-2010, 03:30 PM
yeah the boost actuated dump worked really well. Allowed me to keep the 2.5" exhaust and use it under 5psi, and then dump straight off the 3" downpipe if i went over 5psi.
I might do something similiar with the twin2 after the first muffler

lsc2g
12-22-2010, 08:45 PM
andrew i think he meant cam tensioner gaskets.. those are a good one to do..

DaveS4
12-22-2010, 09:37 PM
Looking awesome, you've got potential to make the "ultimate" engine pull DIY. If you keep it up with pictures this often I'll be able to make my girlfriend pull the engine next time! :D


I feel your pain on an unheated garage in Canada... It sucks haha.

Pick up a portable propane heater, I got one fro about $130, it heats my double garage up in 10 minutes flat and doesn't use too much propane!

BlakMarketKlash
12-22-2010, 10:50 PM
Sick! I'm doing the same pretty soon aswell. GL

V8Star
12-22-2010, 11:01 PM
Watching this.. I love avants.

One thing to note though, is that you didn't have to pull the foglights. I usually leave them in, and unclip them when I have the bumper off. One less thing to lose or break imo.

RONDAL
12-23-2010, 01:57 PM
ya i know that now. was following a DIY that said to pull them. oh well.

Dutchsider
12-23-2010, 02:18 PM
Watching. [up] for motor pulls [:)]

topquarkpc
12-23-2010, 10:14 PM
subscribed too...
great write up so far...please keep it up!!
thx

SeekB00st
12-23-2010, 10:25 PM
Dope boi status

Frauzel
12-24-2010, 12:13 AM
Aww, guy, if you had siemens 630cc injectors and a 034 85mm MAF we could pretty much share maestro tunes!

RONDAL
12-24-2010, 07:25 AM
i have an 85mm MAF, and the injectors i can simply compensate for.

you been playing with tapp's base tune? im getting the 630cc base tune from him and will have to tweak it a bit

RONDAL
12-24-2010, 08:49 AM
Day 2:

Time for front end removal.
First drained the coolant from the passenger side lower rad hose.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5049/5287486994_e967df7ae8_b.jpg

Marked the bolts on the front end with a paint pen to make lining it back up easier when reinstalling.
Undid all the bolts.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5166/5286892069_54213ec6ab_b.jpg

Unhooked the hood release wire, the coolant temp sensor on the lower rad hose, the headlight wire clips, the turn signal clips and anything else that attached to the front clip
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5286904703_9b7b5452a7_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5245/5286907625_af09f12199_b.jpg


Undid the top bolts near the headlights holding to the fender, and then the two side bolts.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5286897073_dc127c1abc_b.jpg


Then....all of a sudden......the front fell off.
I think a wave hit it.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5203/5286910475_9dd8a407d8_b.jpg

RONDAL
12-24-2010, 09:00 AM
Next steps were to:

Remove the airbox
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5041/5286967247_f4d20fb463_b.jpg

Remove the Y-pipe
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5046/5287575318_3c18cf2db5_b.jpg


Break the brittle plastic
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5042/5286968825_e1ca6e413f_b.jpg


Remove Coolant bottle
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5008/5287572890_727f46c434_b.jpg


SMIC's went bye bye
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5082/5287586194_b1cfb3203c_b.jpg


And then the bi-pipes
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5281/5287591042_56781df4f6_b.jpg


Removed the inlets
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5046/5287595374_03b914310d_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5089/5286996163_d7a9103e4a_b.jpg


And undid the axles.

Brother flew in for Xmas last night so had to stop earlier than I wanted to go pick him up. Need to disconnect the driveshaft today, along with the slave cylinder, fuel lines, and all the crap behind the engine.

My goal is for engine to be hanging in the hoist out of the car by tonite.

Slavchob
12-24-2010, 09:41 AM
Man, avants are reallyyy starting to grow on me. Especially this color combo. Gonna be a sick build, and the ultimate writeup for one too. [up] Good luck! I'm really looking forward to see the end product [:D]

A4Rob
12-24-2010, 11:59 AM
Congrats on a sweet find. This thing is going to be a beast! [up]

Cobra Commander
12-24-2010, 12:00 PM
Looking good!

RONDAL
12-24-2010, 08:50 PM
what needs to be undone/taken off behind the back of the engine and the firewall before engine comes out? i know heater hoses need to come through but what else?

Dutchsider
12-24-2010, 09:05 PM
Are you pulling the motor and trans, or just the motor?

Either way, not sure if you've seen this, but watching it was quite helpful for me
http://www.s4-mtm.com/video/M4V20001.MP4

Mantis
12-25-2010, 06:19 AM
brake booster, power steering hard line

Quattro_2.7tt
12-25-2010, 07:09 AM
Nice find on the avant!

RONDAL
12-25-2010, 01:02 PM
brake booster, power steering hard line

thanks ryan

RONDAL
12-26-2010, 07:12 PM
engines out!

pics to follow.

SomeDayAS4
12-26-2010, 08:00 PM
nice
cant wait!!!

RONDAL
12-27-2010, 12:17 PM
So after 3 days and the engine not being out I was pretty frustrated. I've helped with engine pulls and replacements, but never been around for the whole thing or had to do every step myself.
The engines on these cars are so crammed in, its often hard to see what actually needs to be undone, and what needs to be left in place.
Sure I guess I could have undressed the entire engine, but thats a pain, and a lot of extra work IN the car.

Ryan (mantis) came round and gave me a hand and some pointers.

Things I had forgotten;
- AC condenser on the underside of the engine,
- removing the axles completely
- undoing the shifter from IN the car (i am an idiot!)


First was to disconnect the coolant lines from the oil thermostatic plate around the AC condenser. This frees up access to the 3 bolts that need to be undone.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5250/5296787039_00cbebb88b_b.jpg

Then unplug the sensor clips from it, being careful to mark the routing of these wires as it snakes from the top side of the engine to the bottom
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5297401964_d50e3ae4ea_b.jpg


Popped the oil filter off and drained it temporarily, and disconnected what i believe is the AC control module box on the underside of the chassis.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5050/5296822011_867235f7a2_b.jpg



Carefully we then swung the whole AC piece around the edge of the DS SMIC inlet, and the oil thermostatic plate, and all the way round to the edge of the car.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5045/5296824687_12ca8b1a94_b.jpg



You can see the space it used to occupy.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5210/5297431154_22c83905b3_b.jpg



Time to now disconnect powersteering stuff as we have access to it easily.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5006/5297428232_d911652a7d_b.jpg


Next undo the wiring going through the firewall below the AC lines on the passenger side of the car. Disconnect the clip and prop the grommet and line through.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5201/5296835985_f790a52f11_b.jpg


Ensure all the wires are unclipped from the edge of the passenger side rail
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5249/5297436454_790befda1f_b.jpg


Disconnect the ground and the wiring at the back of the engine.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5283/5297439368_3b4080ab6b_b.jpg


Disconnect brake booster line by carefully popping it out.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5087/5297442448_4bc263c57c_b.jpg



With line removed
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5210/5296847735_2c756b8f43_b.jpg


No pics of the axle covers, its too tight. To disconnect them you need a 6 allen socket piece and a enough 3/8 extensions to make about 4' of extension, plus a swivel. you guide in above the brake rotor, and ABOVE the axles. you will see a heat shield. There are 3 bolts holding it in place. Two side ones at the front and back edge are pretty easy. The top one, which I never would have known existed is a little more difficult. Undo all 3 of these on both sides.
Then to pop the axles grab a allen socket and undo the bolt in the center of the hub. you'll need a breaker bar for it. Once undone you can wiggle the axles loose, using a jack under the rotor to take the weight off the suspension and free the axle. Pop them both out.

It's also important you disconnect the driveshaft from the tranny.
To do this crawl under the car, seperate your stock exhaust, the cats will be in the way for where you are going at. This took me a solid 4 hours yesterday and was part of the frustration and no pic update.
Once seperates pull the downpipes down. You will see the driveshaft cover. 2 torx bolts undoes that.
Pull that out of the way you will see 6 drive shaft bolts holding it in place much like an axle. Undo them. Then with a large hammer and blunt skinny object starting banging tapping and expanding your 4 letter vocabulary. Its not how hard you hit it, or where you hit it, its the combination of anger, patience, strength and precision that will get that shaft off the tranny.


Once thats off....and you're still udner the car. Undo BOTH tranny mounts, the DTS, and both motor mounts.

Now at this point we hooked up the lift, tried lifting, and nothing. Thing wouldnt move....we'd forgotten the shifter in the car needs to be undone. Do that. Remember that.


Hook up the spreader bar and get lift into place.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5207/5296856179_2c89dff369_b.jpg


Zap strap all loose wires and sensors and pieces together that are either staying with the car, or staying with the engine. This stops them getting caught and broken as the engine comes out. Take the 10 seconds to do this, it'll save you a lot of money and headache when shit breaks.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5082/5297473764_552c8ef5f1_b.jpg

Undo the heater hoses if they aren't already undone. They will be coming through the firewall.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5009/5297462298_719c00bbba_b.jpg



DS backside of the engine, everything out fo the way.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5208/5297467918_4503688a02_b.jpg



Passenger Side.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5281/5296881427_9fbd239d23_b.jpg


This is an axle cover

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5246/5296884401_a0f7fb5f2e_b.jpg


These were my axles....note the massive tears. Replacements are going in dont worry.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5006/5297488754_dfc5cbbc9c_b.jpg




Jack the engine up with the lift. get a race jack under the car and jack the tranny up. This will help get it off the tranny mounts which like to be stage 5 clingers and not want to let go.
You should as the engine slowly inches out begin to get a space behind the engine.
Before you yank it all the way out you need to disconnect the slave. You can kind of see it in this pic, beside the red tranny bushing. This photo is taken from dirvers side looking over the fender and DP.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5286/5297492230_3c6ca0466e_b.jpg


Here you can see hands going in at it from another angle. Disconnect the whole unit witht he one bolt.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5205/5296903593_a426e1d145_b.jpg


As the back of the engine comes forward pull the heater hoses through the firewall and ensure nothing else is caught or still left.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5286/5297510494_1a04db2513_b.jpg

Slowly bring it out

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5241/5296934489_f7a1076272_b.jpg

Voila. Lump removed.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5001/5297527088_d0fb9df944_b.jpg

The "easy" part is now done.......*shudder*

Made some space down the side of the car and moved engine into place.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5005/5296971491_2780b234eb_b.jpg


Downpipes and tranny need to come off so i can throw it in a stand and work ont he engine.
Heatshields are first to go. Two bolts on top plus the metal clasp on bottom.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5090/5296976821_8aeb944e43_b.jpg

Also undo the EGT's, and o2 sensors, carefully, to ensure the cord doesn't twist and break.Once removed, you can see the 4 DP to turbo bolts. Undo those, and the one bolt on the sring lower down holding the DP to the tranny.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5248/5296995017_30a6fc0b22_b.jpg



Use a race jack to take weight off the DP so it slides off easily.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5170/5296997625_cbac1e62c1_b.jpg


Repeat for side 2. Should be left with this when done.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5246/5297603220_dbcbce0f23_b.jpg




Never gonna need these stupid cats again. Who runs cats anyway hahaha......




http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5297613468_8c5142faf7_b.jpg



Next these tiny buggers are coming off tomorrow.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5297018701_362ffb9627_b.jpg

Tormented
12-27-2010, 12:50 PM
Amazing work man. Good to see the fast progress.

Spooled1.8
12-27-2010, 12:52 PM
Tip for the turbos, spray the hell out of the bolts with penetrating oil and let it sit a while. A torch helps as well.

Cobra Commander
12-27-2010, 02:41 PM
Nice work...surprised it took that much effort to pull the motor/tranny together.

tosh2.7
12-27-2010, 04:37 PM
Tip for the turbos, spray the hell out of the bolts with penetrating oil and let it sit a while. A torch helps as well.

x2

Dutchsider
12-27-2010, 09:47 PM
damn dude. I was going to update my motor pull thread as I just got my motor out today but you pretty much trump any pics of info that I would have given [:)] It's funny looking through your pics after having just seen/done the same thing hours prior

I would like to note that when removing the heater core hoses off the back of the motor, be careful! I broke the passenger side hookup as it was stuck on pretty freaking tight.

RONDAL
12-28-2010, 12:39 AM
So we left off yesterday with the engine out, and the heatshields off.

First job today because the temperature was above freezing was to take some simple green MAX and some hot water and a scrubbing brush, and scrub down the engine bay a bit. i couldn't get a hose out to the garage, it would have frozen and made a mess. so it was done with squirt bottles and some serious elbow grease. why do i have to always pull engines in the dead of winter, AND live in a place thats freezing cold?

It cleaned up nicely. I pulled all the silver heat shields off and cleaned behind them. Scrubbed all of the bottles down on the drivers side and just tried to tidy things up. Was a mess that has accumulated over the last 10 years. You'll never see any of this cleaning once the engine is in because you cant see anything with it in...but its good to know its clean. Someones gonna moan i didn't do a good enough job. If they want to come clean for me i'll be more than happy to accept their help. Otherwise....dont want to hear it.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5083/5299441154_47a1c40f8f_b.jpg




Next was time to seperate the engine and tranny.
I like to label my bolt heads and holes on the tranny. They all are different gauges and lengths, and it allows an easy reinstallation. Trick I learned last time. Started with the bottom ones

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5242/5299446308_a2ff1683ba_b.jpg




and the the upper ones


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5045/5299448076_d3daa36e8e_b.jpg


Easiest way i found to get the tranny off is to get someone to hold the engine, place a jack under the ENGINE as close tot he tranny as you can get it. Lower the engine down so it is neutral, and the straddling the tranny looking at the engine, turn it counter clockwise about twenty degrees and the wiggle it back. Pops right off. It also helps to give it a whack around the edges with a hammer to break the seal.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5283/5298850823_81c44797cc_b.jpg



Now left with this....

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5003/5299459402_ea3de48b12_b.jpg


Time to tackle the 3 turbo allen bolts. Lots of liquid wrench (penetrating oil) and when that doesn't work my favorite toy

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5166/5298859171_1f57c76e5a_b.jpg


That will undo the turbo from the exhaust manifold. Its still held on tight by all kinds of oil lines, coolant lines, and intake inlets.
Time to undo all that crap. its the same for both of them, i took lots of pics of the drivers side turbo coming off.

Here is the inlet from the SMIC to turbo...nice and leaky.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5123/5298864307_f26dbff4f3_b.jpg


Undo the oil return line allen bolts (2)

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5129/5299471840_20469968e8_b.jpg

Then undo the inlet holding bracket from the oil pan

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5205/5299473474_04f485a289_b.jpg



The bottom side stuff now swings away


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5205/5299475088_e43685ba05_b.jpg




Time to attack the coolant lines. These are a royal c&nt. lots of small spaces and fiddly little $hit things. takes way longer than it needs to. hopefully the tials are a little easier.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5043/5299478286_3593e44531_b.jpg



Undo the other coolant line on the outer side. At this point you're gonna wonder how much coolant exactly you can hide in a turbo as it pisses all over the floor. The answer is a lot. Get a bucket.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5005/5298879701_51953693cf_b.jpg




Then time for the oil lines


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5299483276_8857a0d56e_b.jpg




Once they are off swing the turbo down, and disconnect the vaccum line from the wastegate by pulling it right off.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5284/5298882997_bb79557281_b.jpg




No more drivers side turbo.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5290/5299486326_5f9f75de4f_b.jpg




Repeat the annoying process for the passenger side. Expand your 4 letter vocabulary and learn all kinds of tricks with wrenches to work in tight spots. it sucks. I feel your pain if you have to do this.



Tweedle dee, and Tweedle dum are removed. God they are tiny

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5170/5299509290_8afca76784_b.jpg



Time to undo the pressure plate. 6 allen bolts around the outside. Give it a good whack to break the hold.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5209/5298918677_76ef7a32f0_b.jpg



That then exposes the flywheel....

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5009/5298920353_9131474288_b.jpg



Here is my clutch


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5006/5298921923_084e3f50a3_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5045/5298923599_4dd563b9a3_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5082/5299526946_e0c1084c8b_b.jpg


Backside of pressure plate


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/5299528786_fdb7b742dc_b.jpg



Time to remove the flywheel. And to do this takes a little trick Graeme showed me when I did my VRT build a few years ago. Dunno how I remembered it.
Take the LONG SKINNY TRANNY BOLT WITH WASHER and thread it through the bottom hole. Take a wrench and hook it onto a nub on the flywheel. Spin the flywheel around til the wrench hooks up and stop as you can see here. This will allow you to wrench on the bolts and not spin the flywheel.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5299536894_f90438c78e_b.jpg

Now you're bound to strip one of these...they suck. They heat cycle and have locktite. I heated all of my bolts and liquid wrench them, and they were still super hard to undo.
Had to go buy an extractor kit to remove one i stripped. Its actually easier to get them off with these than the normal sockets because these ones will NEVER slip off.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5122/5298933707_f0738df6eb_b.jpg


With that headache out of the way....you're left with this

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5298939737_74b9e21e23_b.jpg


and the dual mass flywheel


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5129/5298942705_ecf30e207f_b.jpg

RONDAL
12-28-2010, 12:46 AM
Next up is removing valve cover gaskets a) to replace the leaking seals, and b) give them a shot of color.


Marked out the coilpacks so i know which is which.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5087/5299547450_cdc304140b_b.jpg


Broke a piece of the spider hose trying to undo the vaccum/emissions whatever it is clip that attaches tot he valve cover. arggghhhhh.....

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5209/5298953589_67c430e9d6_b.jpg


Valve cover off. You can see where it was leaking in the bottom left of this photo, dripping on the manifold and casuing the nice oil smell in my cabin cause that is right near the cabin filter.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5008/5298950399_3752e05e55_b.jpg


The gasket literally was in pieces already before i tried removing it

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5201/5299548904_6160cdc922_b.jpg


Did the same on the drivers side

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5289/5298958153_dcb96f3816_b.jpg


Gave the covers a bath, ensuring i scrubbed the mating surface where the new gasket and sealant is going to go tomorrow

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5005/5299562396_7d77746fba_b.jpg


I've just finished putting on the 3 coats of paint while writing all of this out, photos of that will follow tomorrow.


In the meantime, a comparison photo of the stock vs ER intercoolers I will be running. Its not even a comparison. The ER is almost twice the stock ones size.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5208/5298964535_290cf1fbb6_b.jpg

Cobra Commander
12-28-2010, 06:18 AM
Awesome progress!!!

kramrs2
12-28-2010, 07:28 AM
Great work! The photo documentary is amazing!

gearhead1186
12-28-2010, 07:44 AM
great work. keep the photos coming.

RONDAL
12-28-2010, 10:41 AM
mike riddle me this batman

what happens with this hardline that goes into the stock inlet?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5290/5299486326_5f9f75de4f_b.jpg


is that fuel? air? what happens to it with the tials?

Mantis
12-28-2010, 10:43 AM
Air, not sure what the Tial's do with it, I can't remember what the inlets look like

gearhead1186
12-28-2010, 10:54 AM
mike riddle me this batman

what happens with this hardline that goes into the stock inlet?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5290/5299486326_5f9f75de4f_b.jpg


is that fuel? air? what happens to it with the tials?

That hard line on the inlet is part of the evap system. Its not needed so you can follow the rubber line to where it originates on top of the fuel rail and just cap it off there.

Dutchsider
12-28-2010, 11:52 AM
That spider hose is probably the worst designed part on these cars

RONDAL
12-28-2010, 01:27 PM
What is the best method for capping lines?

fshowcars
12-28-2010, 01:36 PM
although old school/ghetto... i usually find a solid bolt that nicely fits into the rubber and crank it down with a clamp, if capping a rubber line. Depending on where you are, you can tap the cover / head and screw a freeze plug into it...? I bought some and used them on my 16v to close up the OEM oil gullies and the like. or just find similar sized bolt in your bolt bin and tap away. just be careful of depth if in the head / cover.

RONDAL
12-28-2010, 04:39 PM
so the tial kit is missing a whack of coolant stuff.

for those with the kit, i'm missing;
x2 CNC aluminum banjo fittings
x4 12mm CNC stainless steel banjo bolts
x8 12mm Copper crush washers

for the CNC banjo fittings, what size do i need to get? i'm trying to source them locally instead of wait for johnny bravo to send from California or Michigan or wherever he is located.
Dont people check these things before they ship kits? You'd think it would be pretty basic?

CTS Turbo
12-28-2010, 06:15 PM
so the tial kit is missing a whack of coolant stuff.

for those with the kit, i'm missing;
x2 CNC aluminum banjo fittings
x4 12mm CNC stainless steel banjo bolts
x8 12mm Copper crush washers

for the CNC banjo fittings, what size do i need to get? i'm trying to source them locally instead of wait for johnny bravo to send from California or Michigan or wherever he is located.
Dont people check these things before they ship kits? You'd think it would be pretty basic?


This isn't the first time I've heard of TiAL short shipping parts, and from what I heard they shot the other guy down for missing parts. TiAL compared the box weights, the boxes missing the parts weighed the same as the boxes without missing parts... Last time I checked crush washers and a few small bolts and aluminum flanges don't weigh much, BUT they sure screw up your install when they are missing from the shipment. Good to see TiAL and Johnny have continued to avoid the situations at hand, these kits cost $5000, you'd think you'd get some better customer service. [down]

red330i
12-28-2010, 06:33 PM
Beautiful car!

RONDAL
12-28-2010, 07:42 PM
if anyone has info on the missing coolant stuff i need to get it would be appreciated. im kinda stuck hooking that stuff up at the moment without them.

im also stuck on the rear main seal gasket because autocamping world has some totally different idea of what a S4 rear main seal gasket looks like....sent me something that looks like it belongs in a chevy truck.

while im waiting, how do i replace the cam seals?
the valve covers are removed, i can see the black rubber on the outside of the heads. do i simply pop those off? i tried lightly but was gonna have to destroy the rubber which is now hard so i thought i would ask first before tearing into it.

RONDAL
12-28-2010, 11:30 PM
Photo update.....

As you can read from earlier, today was a frustrating today. It felt like two big steps back instead of any kind of forward progress. Bloody german cars.


First, inspected the paint job I did last night....I like.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5123/5302568270_e7a44ea0ea_b.jpg


.....and thats where the positivity ended.


Oh hi rear main seal...you're right here and easy to replace. I know you're not leaking but you're a $12 part.....what could possibly go wrong?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5289/5302571768_b599f807c4_b.jpg


Off....

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5046/5301980671_0ce3b963b9_b.jpg


The back of the rear main seal...with the old broken gasket. No worries because I ordered both of those, here let me get them from the basement. Oh....whats that. You didn't ship me the right one? Not the end of the world....I'll call Audi. Oh....whats that.....there are NONE IN CANADA UNTIL THE NEW YEAR? FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU

So i made a few angry text messages....you know who you are. And some desperation phone calls. Found a third party supplier that can have one here tomorrow. Cost me a few sexual favors and I think a dinner. (and about 2 hours of shop time)


I then decided to double check all my other stuff. Found that i'm missing the Tial parts. I'll be honest, any schmuck can put together a "turbo kit" nowadays. You're charging what you're charging, you better be double checking all of the stuff is in it. Cause otherwise you end up with pissed of customers who are stuck waiting for you to answer PM's, emails, phone calls....and waiting on parts. You will be judged by your customer service. You listening Tial?


By this point I had wasted 4 hours. So pissed. No real direction of what I should be doing, and pretty demotivated.

Decided to start getting the other stuff ready for the Tials to go in.

First step according to the booklet was remove the oil feed lines. THIS SHOULD BE THE LAST STEP!
Here is where it is located. Back of the top of the engine, below the manifold, right above the tranny. Follow that oil feed line up from inside the tranny to that shiny silver box. You'll see one of the banjo bolts part way out. Be careful to keep these bolts you have to reuse.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5043/5302578952_8ca5be680c_b.jpg

Here;s what it looks like from the top LOL

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5130/5301987841_aba638053d_b.jpg

I wrestled from below with that mess for a good 45 minutes.


I then decided screw it i'll mnark out the other lines that have to be removed with masking tape and figure them out.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5130/5302596400_31d2f750be_b.jpg


Traced them back...and guess where I was looking again

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5007/5302594624_9162138689_b.jpg


Luckily, half the crap thats in the way for the oil lines will actually be removed. So i just decided to do it in order of less-pain-in-the-ass. Coolant lines first, spider hose second, then oil lines.
Made them my b!tch

Spider bye bye
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5302600650_11fb817e16_b.jpg

Wastegate and actuator bye bye
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5286/5302602734_16759226e3_b.jpg


Well hey now that looks way too easy.....

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5009/5302608664_b59c2b7891_b.jpg



So much anger at these.....


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5249/5302017063_c57bc6f012_b.jpg



Done with this page of the booklet

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5302612394_fa21b36233_b.jpg


Time to modify the mounts. Stock ones need to be filed to clearance the new inlets.

Stock Passenger side

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5047/5302584316_02d0a709e9_b.jpg


After 25 minutes of filing by hand

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5241/5301995299_ba5f5aabb1_b.jpg



Drivers side, you can see the modification that needs to happen marked out in black marker

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5006/5302024595_0ac2ff9a9c_b.jpg


Modified

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5125/5302616148_e76d47d355_b.jpg


Then....threw my ricer valve covers on temporarily. Oh and something else.
Why hullo thurrr.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5004/5302026247_c40b0cc0e8_b.jpg


Threw the inlet on to test some clearance.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5202/5302031455_cea2e3079d_b.jpg


Still touching. file some more. Who's the creepy bald guy?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5126/5302623518_e787ee88fa_b.jpg





In the spirit of bigger and better....todays installment

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5005/5302590276_ec40c7bb61_b.jpg



Thats all i got done today.

Tomorrow i want to do rear main seal, cam seals, valve cover gaskets, and maybe these transmission pieces i have forgotten about.

CTS Turbo
12-29-2010, 12:31 PM
This isn't the first time I've heard of TiAL short shipping parts, and from what I heard they shot the other guy down for missing parts. TiAL compared the box weights, the boxes missing the parts weighed the same as the boxes without missing parts... Last time I checked crush washers and a few small bolts and aluminum flanges don't weigh much, BUT they sure screw up your install when they are missing from the shipment. Good to see TiAL and Johnny have continued to avoid the situations at hand, these kits cost $5000, you'd think you'd get some better customer service. [down]


Any word from TiAL on this one? Hopefully you don't get the shaft...

Don Supreme
12-29-2010, 12:48 PM
These projects as so fragile.. One missing bolt and it may completely derail the project time line. Please guys better quality control.

RONDAL
12-29-2010, 01:36 PM
spoke with tial this morning, sounds like i cant source the parts locally because they are CNC'd in house. gotta wait for them to ship them.

hopefully they do as i ask and send overnight. i know its at extra cost to them, but theis could have been avoided with a 30 second check in house.


got my rear main gasket though. waiting for propane heter to warm up garage right now.

RONDAL
12-29-2010, 01:49 PM
lets play a game i like to call name the mystery pieces:

Exhibit A:
large massive bolt with splined end. WHat is this for?
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5128/5303865919_5a95786412_b.jpg


Exhibit B:
two large O-rings. they almost look turbo related but I cant be certain. I have the ones for the tials seperately and the ER intercoolers somehwere else as well. Tey are rubber not metal
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5164/5304461436_9d766ae36b_b.jpg


Ex. C:
I think these are cam related. What is there official name
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5047/5303874325_41ea370878_b.jpg

Ex. D:
This single piece of hardend plastic came in a box....by itself. It looks a lot like Ex. E but I dont know if its the same or not.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5089/5304470662_3ac7a02c6d_b.jpg


Ex. E:
I think these are cam related as well. There are two caps and 4 ridged circles.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5304476896_d388992dc6_b.jpg



THe worlds worst and most expensive puzzle ever:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5241/5304474378_344d0debc0_b.jpg

Tormented
12-29-2010, 03:07 PM
I see your DPs and im sure youve stated somewhere but what exhaust are you running? Im assuming those are 3'' dps.

NeedingAnAudi
12-29-2010, 04:05 PM
Love your detail. If I ever buy an S4, I will upgrade turbos and this thread will be my best friend. [up]

Don't know A. or B.
C. cam chain tensioner gaskets
D. and E. camshaft seal on the front of the engine

Matt Danger
12-29-2010, 05:05 PM
A: Crank bolt located on the front of the crank, secures the timing belt gear. It is a recommended one time use stretch bolt and only needs to be changed/replaced if you're removing the timing belt gear to replace the front crank seal. You'll need the crank locking pin to do this. If your seal isn't leaking and you're in a hurry to put the car back together I'd skip it and worry about it later.

B: O-rings might slip over the turbo inlets to seal the inlets and the piping. Not 100%, just a guess.

C: Cam chain tensioner gasket & plug thingie. Part of the top end seal kit. You'll need a cam chain tensioner tool to compress the tensioner and replace the seal. Check if the area around the tensioner on each head is leaking (very common).

D: Cam seal.

E: Cam and front crank seals. I think cam and front crank are the same seals. The two plugs go in the back side of each head, if the old ones are leaking simply pry them out, clean and tap on the new ones. Cam seals require removing the timing belt and cam sprockets and using either seal puller or a screw to carefully remove the old seal. Crank seal removal is discussed in A. If they're not leaking you may want to skip for the sake of time savings.

RONDAL
12-29-2010, 05:14 PM
matt danger wins the audizine MEGA CRED award. thanks dude i appreciate the help.

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 01:23 AM
So today started off well.
Got a note from Johnny Bravo late last night, with contact details for someone who i should talk to to source banjo bolts. Woke up extra early, only to find out after speaking with them, they custom CNC their own fittings, and there was no one in Western Canada who stocked what I needed. No fret, a quick email of what I needed and a wonderful lady at Tial had a package with tracking out the door by noon with next day delivery. THANK YOU TIAL!


Next was playing the waiting game with Alex for the rear main gasket. Finally around 1pm it arrived at the shop so I went and picked it up.
Finally got to doing some real work around 3pm after playing that "what part is this game" some parts trouble shooting from my favorite tim hortons drinking audi part guy, and a quick stop past Calgary Autowerks for some cam seal related tech tips.

Time to get down to business.

First....a big F U to mother nature. Why didn't we do natural gas heating in the garage and insulate it again?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5166/5305355775_89283e090e_b.jpg


First was dealing with the rear main seal....again.
New gasket.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5004/5305952892_c7d8de1a98_b.jpg


The ghetto fabulous way of ensuring your gasket sealer is up to operating temps hahaha

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/5305358989_320322e73e_b.jpg


Cleaned up and ready to go.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5305956196_5d17369aa1_b.jpg

Voila. Some say dont run gasket maker, some say do. I dont want to be pulling this again, so I'm going with DO. its like 15 seconds of extra work. Wanna try redoing that once its in the car in under 15 hours?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5125/5305957818_2c2f4c7b7d_b.jpg



Next I doubel checked drivers side clearancing on the turbo. The Tial manual says to cut 1.5" off the turbo inlet. There isn't 1.5" there to cut off. So i test fitted the inlet to ensure everything fit properly just to be sure.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5208/5305971938_439194ba7e_b.jpg


While test fitting on the passenger side again, i noticed that i'm having issues with the coolant line that comes from behind the motor mount. Does this need to be modified in a certain way to make it fit. I cut off the tab, but even then it looks like it needs to be rebent as its contacting the actuator?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5125/5305965734_9f14dee59a_b.jpg



Decided to leave that one for some feedback and move onto cam stuff...because that needed to get done today.

Front of the engine

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5043/5305368367_bbd26ede9b_b.jpg


I'm going to show this all on the passenger side just because i did it first. The thing is the same for the drivers side, just the lighting sucks on that side for photos haha. if you need to do your seals I hope this helps. do it at your own risk

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE, GET ENGINE TO TDC AND MARK TIMING OUT ON BOTH CAM PULLEYS, BELT, AND CAM PULLEY

Pull covers off the top, removing the allen bolts, and unplug the hall sensor.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5087/5305968614_02e2069120_b.jpg


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5002/5305371473_958b54fc9c_b.jpg



Next using an impact gun, undo your crank pulley allen bolts around the outside of it, and remove

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5003/5305379465_79ef693ecb_b.jpg


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5123/5305976818_60e50a095e_b.jpg



Then undo the allen bolts holding on the clutch fan pulley (to remove clutch fan REVERSE THREAD undo it using a adjustable wrench), and remove, plus dump the tensior too using an 8mm allen.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5127/5305979934_56798c655b_b.jpg


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5250/5305981418_436e7222a5_b.jpg



Compress the tensioner and use the grenade pin in the tensioner to take the tension off of the timing belt.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5124/5305387187_bab7c42f35_b.jpg



Place the cam shaft locking bar across the cam pulleys. It will only fit one way, into the two holes in the cam pulleys, and if you are TDC it will fit. if not, you're out. go back and find TDC.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5166/5305986082_93e170f7ae_b.jpg


Using the audi cam pulley took loosen off the pulleys. There is another little arm on this tool i just didn't take photo of it.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5041/5305989416_82686ffd6b_b.jpg


Pulleys off


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5088/5305992616_32525f4599_b.jpg


Using a cam tensioner compressor compress the tensioner to get some slack in the chain.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5007/5305395381_83e666c312_b.jpg


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5287/5305995950_5947c55179_b.jpg



Now undo the 6 torx cam holder bolts that run down the edge of the cam tensioner, and remove. once they are out the cam tensioner will pop ever so little off of its base. you can use the cam locking bar to rock that cam up a little further if needed. This will lift it off of the half moon seal under the tensioner.
I've already pulled the half moon seal in this photo but you can see where it goes.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5085/5305999074_4dc2d9aa37_b.jpg



Make SURE you clean out this area of crud and junk using some brake cleaner and a paper towel.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5125/5305407143_f7c292caf2_b.jpg



Time for new parts. The half moon goes in as you would think just ensure the ridges go where they need to, and the metal gasket lies on top under the cam tensioner. It only goes one way and clips onto and exposed metal stud.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5129/5305410673_0433e9c593_b.jpg



Half moon in, and gasket going into place.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5245/5305408881_c3af1dd86d_b.jpg



back together....


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5005/5306009374_c0088b893a_b.jpg




Torque down the cam holder bolts


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5010/5305412323_5e3f959fff_b.jpg

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 01:24 AM
Next move back to the front of the engine for a minute and remove the hall sensor entirely with the two allen bolts. Be sure not to damage the back of the sensor.
You will be left with this


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5210/5305415545_efc8158c98_b.jpg



Undo the bolt, remove the bolt, washer, and the metal disc. Leaving you with this


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5305417241_9c3d6d67a0_b.jpg



Next undo the 4 cam holder bolts down at this end of the engine, they will release the whole piece as you can see here. Give it a VERY gentle tap with a hammer to get it to start to move. VERY gentle.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5044/5306016190_6666504388_b.jpg



Once thats off you will see the cam shaft seals.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5290/5305422171_f216e43b2e_b.jpg


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5047/5306019298_6024e46853_b.jpg


They literally slide off by hand. pull gently.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5245/5306020762_80dd9a24ec_b.jpg



Go find your new seals, two of them, and some multipurpose grease. Lightly grease the inner part of the seal.
You can then reinstall them the same way they came out. Be sure to get them lined up so they bottom out against the head, and that they are straight.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5086/5305418909_4477fbd8cc_b.jpg


Put the piece back on top and carefully tighten down evenly.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5248/5305426575_790fe8f2a5_b.jpg

Voila...reinstalled

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5208/5306025570_0d11dc6a21_b.jpg


Now go back to the backside of your engine again, lightly tap a flat head into the cam cap.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5306027218_4a3bdecb13_b.jpg


Once its removed you'll have this

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5081/5305433473_edf3187af6_b.jpg


Lightly, and ensuring its straight, tap in the new one.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5246/5306030680_0441a37e47_b.jpg




REMEMBER TO TORQUE DOWN ALL THE CAM HOLDER BOLTS YOU LOOSEND


You're now done with the passenger side, repeat on the drivers side. Exact same way to do things.

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 01:31 AM
After we were done the drivers side it was time to throw in the new main water pump.

Took off the pulley from the power steering pump


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5166/5306035328_029de3a26c_b.jpg



Then undid the 3 allen bolts holding the PS pump in place (its the top center thing if you dont know). There is one allen bolt to the left side and partially under the intake manifold. Its a 6mm allen and can be reached with a wobbly extension from the top.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5083/5306036606_0b2792f08e_b.jpg




Next undo both rollers from the front. One is a 13mm i believe, the other a 8mm allen. My water pump kit came with new rollers for both of these and a new timing belt. If yours doens't you dont need to worry about this.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5209/5305443867_c49762d507_b.jpg


Had to lift the PS pump up slightly so i could undo all of the 10mm bolts, there is one hiding under the pump as you can see here.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5085/5305448111_c753d7ac5f_b.jpg



All the bolts out


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5161/5305446565_9397e4659c_b.jpg


Pulled the water pump. Yay crap....


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5164/5305452717_ab67303b90_b.jpg


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5241/5305451229_a4310e1a4e_b.jpg



I took a razor blade and cleaned up the surface. There was a lot of old gasket left behind, and used a bit of 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth it out


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5008/5305455711_bc3c27f4fe_b.jpg



Installed new pump (here you can see the other roller removed)


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5087/5305457057_0e676da776_b.jpg



Installed new rollers


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5046/5306058234_f83f1e5a90_b.jpg




marked out on the new timing belt the timing marks from before. its really handy to have one hold the belt while the other counts and lines up teeth.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5048/5306056860_482fbbb4cd_b.jpg



Put the new belt on, the cam pulleys are back on too, all torqued to proper spec. Then pull the tensioner grenade pin and presto everything is set how its supposed to. Check for proper slack in the belt and that all timing marks line up. You can see the white paint pen on the pulleys and belt.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5202/5306055188_6a817ee3e5_b.jpg



Reinstall the serp belt toys and the clutch fan (i left mine off for now).


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5282/5305352451_64e1c6d6ae_b.jpg


Cover everything back up.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5049/5305949752_69eef62504_b.jpg



I decided to call it a night after all that. It was 1130pm at this point. My how time flies when you're having fun. I'm sure it could be done a lot quicker than 5 hours...but i was playing with timing stuff, and I REALLY didn't want to get it wrong or rush it.


Tomorrow i just need to do up the valve cover gaskets, and the engine seal stuff on the top end should be done.

JackalS4
12-30-2010, 02:03 AM
Keep up the good work man! [up]

skinnytirez
12-30-2010, 04:24 AM
What you accomplished in this one page was over a month of work for me... I remember every 4 letter word associated with those oil/coolant lines on the K03s
Great documentation-Blows mine out of the water!
good call replacing the main seal... i neglected that, and now have a slipping clutch. FML

I think that coolant line you were asking about needs to be bent a little bit (emphasis on little bit 1-2mm), and rotated- start by thinking "if I bolt this to the turbo where does it need to run to fit?" you likely just have it routed a little bit wrong... good luck, take more pics & post them if you can't figure it out.

I used to live in Calgary; next time I make the trip from Kansas I may PM you for a ride around the block!

Cheers!
Good work, stay warm...or do your best, and good luck!

skinnytirez
12-30-2010, 04:26 AM
Outstanding progress!
What you accomplished in this one page was over a month of work for me... I remember every 4 letter word associated with those oil/coolant lines on the K03s
Great documentation-Blows mine out of the water!
good call replacing the main seal... i neglected that, and now have a slipping clutch. FML

I think that coolant line you were asking about needs to be bent a little bit (emphasis on little bit 1-2mm), and rotated- start by thinking "if I bolt this to the turbo where does it need to run to fit?" you likely just have it routed a little bit wrong... good luck, take more pics & post them if you can't figure it out.

I used to live in Calgary; next time I make the trip from Kansas I may PM you for a ride around the block!

Cheers!
Good work, stay warm...or do your best, and good luck!

Dutchsider
12-30-2010, 07:22 AM
This thread is one of the things that I look forward to every day :)

The detail of work is unsurpassed and will be a great frame of reference for anyone attempting this work in the future. Kudos to you for putting the time and effort in to showing this in such detail [up]

gearhead1186
12-30-2010, 07:35 AM
the 1.5" tial said to cut was for the stock piping on the outlet of the turbo. not the inlet. you will see when you drop the motor in the car and run the piping to your intercooler.

IIIRC I trimmed my coolant line a bit.

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 09:26 AM
If I trim the outlet then I lose any sort of ridge to hold the silicone on. Is that right?

gearhead1186
12-30-2010, 09:42 AM
If I trim the outlet then I lose any sort of ridge to hold the silicone on. Is that right?

not if your creative. i go more in depth in my build thread if you wanna rifle through it.

http://inlinethumb63.webshots.com/20542/2935550590103989424S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/45942/2301300660103989424S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb34.webshots.com/6497/2480068530103989424S600x600Q85.jpg

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 09:58 AM
Sick ghetto tool. What is in the top half of those grips creating the ripple. I can see a circular metal ring on the lower. Where did the top piece come from?

gearhead1186
12-30-2010, 10:01 AM
Sick ghetto tool. What is in the top half of those grips creating the ripple. I can see a circular metal ring on the lower. Where did the top piece come from?

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/images/product_images/thumbs200/walker/wk35414.jpg

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 10:08 AM
Someone's creative. Good call.

To save me a trip across town to where the car is from my apartment which is right near the hardware store, wanna let me know what size exhaust clamp that is?

gearhead1186
12-30-2010, 10:11 AM
Someone's creative. Good call.

To save me a trip across town to where the car is from my apartment which is right near the hardware store, wanna let me know what size exhaust clamp that is?

I think I used a 2.5" clamp. As long as your close to the diameter of the pipe your good.

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 10:24 AM
sweet.

off to mopac i go.


Mike....if i haven't already said it; THANK YOU.
your build thread and pics have been super helpful. im constantly checking on it as i go to ensure things are fitting how they are supposed to.

I'm gonna have to play around with that coolant line though. its hard line all the way from behind the motor mount, so no rubber to cut. i can either torch it up hot and try bending it, or cut it in half, place a rubber line in the middle and reclamp.

Thoughts?

gearhead1186
12-30-2010, 10:43 AM
sweet.

off to mopac i go.


Mike....if i haven't already said it; THANK YOU.
your build thread and pics have been super helpful. im constantly checking on it as i go to ensure things are fitting how they are supposed to.

I'm gonna have to play around with that coolant line though. its hard line all the way from behind the motor mount, so no rubber to cut. i can either torch it up hot and try bending it, or cut it in half, place a rubber line in the middle and reclamp.

Thoughts?

Your coolant lines dont look like 14 and 17? How do they connect to the block if its a full hard line?

http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/46799/2097044140103989424S600x600Q85.jpg

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 11:05 AM
it does, it is hard line all the way back to behind of the motor mounts where it becomes rubber.
i guess im just confused as to the modifications to the rubber you did.

i'll pop my motor mount bracket off shortly and snap a picture. I've currently been working with it on the whole time.

Angular
12-30-2010, 11:09 AM
not if your creative. i go more in depth in my build thread if you wanna rifle through it.
http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/45942/2301300660103989424S600x600Q85.jpg


Nice! And much cheaper than a bead roller tool that you may only use once or twice. [up]

gearhead1186
12-30-2010, 11:20 AM
it does, it is hard line all the way back to behind of the motor mounts where it becomes rubber.
i guess im just confused as to the modifications to the rubber you did.

i'll pop my motor mount bracket off shortly and snap a picture. I've currently been working with it on the whole time.

yea, thats what I meant. behind the motor mount, it converts to a rubber line. IIRC, trimming a bit of of the rubber end helped me get it aligned. here are two pics of when I was running 605s. Maybe they will help.

http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/44877/2359449880103989424S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/309/2434169300103989424S600x600Q85.jpg

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 12:50 PM
lol i had saved those 2 pics to my iphone and was usingt hem for comparison last night.

thanks

Cobra Commander
12-30-2010, 01:57 PM
Yet again, excellent work! Glad to see you're making progress, are you still on par to finish this week?

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 03:25 PM
mike,
ANY idea what mods you did to that passenger coolant hardline? i've tried everything. still cant get it to line up like you habe yours. lots of swearing right now.
this should be a 30 second bolt the coolant line up, instead its take 2+ hours.

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 04:22 PM
also, when ER talks about a "lower intercooler pipe" in their supplied parts, is this a piece of silicone? cause there is no metal pipe in the box they shipped me. Just 3 pieces of silicone, and the QC sheet only talks about 2 pieces of silicone.

Anyone?

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 04:27 PM
when they refer to the removal of the 1.5" its on this piece seen hanging off here.

correct?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5205/5299475088_e43685ba05_b.jpg

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 04:55 PM
this is retarded.

mikes' original 605's the drivers side has the intercooler outlet clocking way in close to the oilpan

http://gallery.avivascience.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=9143&g2_serialNumber=2


MINE.....it clocks outwards. Making it impossible to line up the drivers side intercooler piping in any way shape or form?


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5305973712_346c278162_b.jpg



WTF!

Matt Danger
12-30-2010, 05:55 PM
You should be able to loosen the compressor housing and rotate it so that it's clocked correctly. The wastegate actuator may need to be readjusted afterwards. Not a show stopper but definitely annoying.

tosh2.7
12-30-2010, 06:14 PM
so much fun to come home every night after work and read such a GREAT build thread. cant wait to hear this beast

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 07:04 PM
this is going to sound like the worlds stupidest question; do i have the right turbos on the correct sides?

the tial documentation shows the passenger side turbo having the little kink in the outlet that goes to the intercooler. am i reading this right?
i have looked at swapping them but it doesn't look like it'll fit anyway, but after 4 hours of trying today just to get the turbos on and the lines to reach them, i'm game for a stupid question

nthusiastt
12-30-2010, 07:31 PM
do work man, way to document everything!! [:)] Made respect!

gearhead1186
12-30-2010, 08:13 PM
you have the turbos on the wrong sides. look at the angle of the wastegate arm.

http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/37519/2257377860103989424S600x600Q85.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5305973712_346c278162_b.jpg

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 08:18 PM
Sonofabitch.
This is me slamming my head into the wall

SomeDayAS4
12-30-2010, 08:49 PM
atleast you saw it beofore you were further haha like lowering it into the car

lsc2g
12-30-2010, 10:27 PM
good support for andrew!!! way to go audizine!! :D

RONDAL
12-30-2010, 10:55 PM
with the turbos round the right way holy crap fitment works.


tial says lay the banjo fittings for the oil lines flat on the table so they are the same as the 90 and 60* degree bends in the metal. mike i see you've done differently 90* off of what tial states.
with the oil lines almost hooked up i can see why your way works better

off to tinker some more

http://gallery.avivascience.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=8954&g2_serialNumber=2

Dutchsider
12-30-2010, 11:13 PM
No shame in RONDAL's game

Phillyb7s4
12-30-2010, 11:22 PM
I love reading this build too.

cjernigan
12-31-2010, 12:04 AM
New after-run pump for you or are you going to try the new 034 pump delete hose?

RONDAL
12-31-2010, 01:39 AM
034. and im still waiting for it to arrive. i'll be pissed if i have to install the engine and then do the after-run pump

RONDAL
12-31-2010, 02:27 AM
Lets start with this morning first; 4 working days left until i have to actually go back to my real job....and i'm still not close to finishing. i also lost my support car today as my buddy returned from out of town so i am now officially carless.

It was a balmy -17*C today...so the garage was extra nippy. Covvies, sweater and a toque...with the propane heater at full tilt and the electric heater doing $hit all. I swear to god, any garage of mine in the futrue will have natual gas heating....and i might even put in a heater slab flooring just because i can....and i dont give a crap about global warming because it aint god damn warming anything.
/rant

Goal when i got up was to button up the valve covers since i'm all done in there.

Remember this view?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5042/5308504196_f09709615e_b.jpg


Popped the interior gasket out from inside the head

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5002/5307914079_2e84259cc6_b.jpg

The new toy


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5209/5307895569_b824ca8971_b.jpg


It's really basic putting these things in, but there is a trick. get a DAB of gasket maker and hit the 4 corners of the gasket where it twists and goes over the ridges (you'll know what i'm talking about if you ever have to do this. then a big dab down in the valley near the hall sensor. THis will ensure hopefully that it never leaks again. Then place the valve cover back on top and tigthen it down diagonally to ensure the gasket seats properly. That was easy.


Then i pissed away the better part of after lunch and the afternoon trying to install a pair of turbos and their lines backwards. I'm not proud of this at all. it was the biggest piss off while i was doing it, and it was also the biggest time waster ever. if i could have 4 hours right now i could get a lot accomplished...but its 2am...and i just got out of the garage.

So lets skip the turbo swap drama and get to the progress.

Once i finally got mary kate and ashley on the right sides of the engine....things went rather smoothly.
Hey look...that coolant line that never fit on the passenger side all of a sudden fits


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5124/5309212326_b3897eea29_b.jpg

And that piping from the turbo to the intercooler on the drivers side fits too (once i clocked back the turbo)


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5045/5308628805_7765243d47_b.jpg

Time to start getting some parts out.... The coolant hoses...and the barb fittings that arrived via fedex today. Thanks again to TIal for fixing that so quick

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5308630141_e5c5423803_b.jpg

Banjo into hose

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5049/5309218570_45aeb789fc_b.jpg


And some new oil lines, marking the correct side....to not repeat this afternoons mistake again

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5309221332_c82ff4b915_b.jpg

Gonna be needing this to ensure no leaky oil fittings.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5308635827_8422706132_b.jpg

Hooked up the banjo fittings. After a test fit, they need to be at 90* to laying flat on the table. Tial really needs to fix its instructions

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5205/5309225660_e58fc5ba15_b.jpg



Started with drivers side.

Hooked up the hardline from behind the motor mount with the new banjo bolt


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5045/5309232682_e81ac3dd4c_b.jpg

Then using the old banjo bolt i saved (you need to) i installed the oil line into the oil block under the head

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5250/5308641701_a20f7eb990_b.jpg


Other end of the oil line into the turbo

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5204/5308644567_4370418239_b.jpg

COolant line behind the intake manifold

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5090/5309234150_9699ab8f49_b.jpg





I then installed the oil drain flange

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5128/5308660471_d28a68273c_b.jpg

And then did the other end of that coolant line. I thought about going under the turbo cause there was a fair bit of line slack but it didn't work its about an inch too short for that. you need to move the wastegate actuator up a bit to do up the banjo bolt. then move it back and tighten it back in place. Notice the rod is bent in mine slightly

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5082/5309253078_fd0c352af1_b.jpg


Voila

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5208/5309254604_92e584b51c_b.jpg

Hey look what fits now

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5285/5308670383_54f2eba8c1_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5204/5309264200_844a9eea9e_b.jpg

Now i gotta say....it looks and sounds pretty easy. hook up line, bolt other line, screw in fitting. but the tolerances, clearances and space to work is tiny. everything takes a while, especially for me with bear paws for hands. that was a good 2.5 hour ordeal to get that done. plus i took my time test fitting stuff to make sure it worked before putting thread sealer and locktite on things that needed it.

SO i now have a tial 302.5 kit installed. going for the full 605 tomorrow.

Doing the passenger side right now but i'm stuck at the oil line.
I cant get the banjo bolt into the distribution block. the bolt and the banjo fitting cannot fit into the same space due to the coolant hardline that runs under the intake manifold being in the way. IS there a fix to getting this in. I literally had to pry the bolt out when i undid the old line

As you can see with the oil line in place there is barely any room tot he right of it to get a bolt in, due to the coolant line? Any ideas...i spent 45 minutes on it and my hands are bleeding from pushing and trying all kinds of shit.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5005/5308680075_155641a715_b.jpg



To do list:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5050/5308678471_f30a8d3586_b.jpg

wdbdy2000s4
12-31-2010, 06:49 AM
if you pop off that coolant hose then you should be able to slide the bolt in. Also, if you disconnect the banjo from the AN fitting it will be easier to move around. On rich's car we put the banjos facing up like you did and I don't remember there being a clearance problem.

gearhead1186
12-31-2010, 07:48 AM
you can also remove/loosen the oil dist block to get the banjo and fitting in there. bolt the dist block back down and then tighten up the oil line.

http://gallery.avivascience.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=8918&g2_serialNumber=2

RONDAL
12-31-2010, 10:08 AM
How can you lift the block when it has a hardlines that also runs down the back and bolts it at the rear main? Are those 2 separate?

gearhead1186
12-31-2010, 01:45 PM
How can you lift the block when it has a hardlines that also runs down the back and bolts it at the rear main? Are those 2 separate?

unless ur tranny is already bolted up just pull the bolt that holds that hardline to the oil galley.

RONDAL
12-31-2010, 04:33 PM
so i just did this....

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5311001900_6d1d11cc44_b.jpg


crushed the hardline from the block to the passenger side turbo that goes behind the motor mount. it was seated in the void where its supposed to but must have slipped out and then i crushed it as i was tightening the mount up.

ANy ideas how to reround this, at 430pm on new years eve?

i've thought about using a propane torch to heat it up nice and hot and then put it in a vice and trying to crush it 90* to how i did it in the hopes it might reround itself, but im thinking thats just going to make it worse.

gearhead1186
12-31-2010, 04:39 PM
sorry to say but unless ur magneto's long lost cousin, there is no way you are fixing that.

Angular
12-31-2010, 05:06 PM
Ouch! Man, that's a tough one. Wish I could tell you how to fix it. I agree the vice/90 deg crush thing would make it worse. Short of getting a new line, I might try pressurizing the line with air and heating it with a torch, but that's easier said than done, requires you have an air compressor, barb fittings, etc., and then the rubber hose crimp may fail if you heat it too much. Way too much of a risk to take. You obviously do not want that line failing after the car is all put back together.

RONDAL
12-31-2010, 05:08 PM
so i just superheated it with a torch and shoved the corner in the vice. its not round, but it flows and doesn't leak now. i can hold it up to the tap and it will flow a decent amount through it. there's obviously a bit of restriction.

i know this supplies or take coolant from the turbo for cooling. is this going to be an issue?

i have some people saying on another forum it will be fine, that as long as its flowing and not leaking it will be ok.


i'm gonna ask the audience on this one.

gearhead1186
12-31-2010, 05:12 PM
its the coolant feed. unless your on a serious deadline I would pay the small fee and get a new one. im pretty anal tho..

RONDAL
12-31-2010, 05:14 PM
haha well i dont have a car and i cant do anything engine wise until that gets hooked up....

im pretty anal too, but if its gonna feed fine, then i'll run it

Angular
12-31-2010, 06:03 PM
Just ask yourself this question: if that coolant line fails in two weeks or two months from now, how much work is it going to be to replace it?

commonrail
12-31-2010, 08:12 PM
Can you post up a picture of what it looks like now that you've bent it back? You could try to plug the rubber end with a bolt and clamp, then pressurize the other side
with an airgun and a rubber tip to see if its not leaking (I doubt it). I wouldn't be worried about it unless there was obvious damage like a crack.

wdbdy2000s4
01-01-2011, 05:30 AM
you can just replace it with a banjo and rubber line. Half of that line is rubber anyway.

If you don't trust me, take some consolation in the fact that the VAST return lines are all rubber.

RONDAL
01-01-2011, 03:04 PM
after a night of heavy drinking and some contimplation im not gonna run that line. its not worth risking a turbo and pulling this all out again just to try and save a day.

i'm gonna take it to a local shop, get them to cut the hardline before the pinch and put on a rubber line so i can bend it into place how i need it.



other thought was to go to somewhere like mopac and buy some line and some fire sleeve. that way i can just bend it to where it needs to go.

i'm also debating something similiar on the passenger side oil return line. its a touch too short and isn't lining up right. i've tried clocking the center of the turbo, i've tried loosening the turbo to manifold bolts to get myself some play to hook it up, i've bent twisted and tried everything but its just a touch too short.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5311407568_ec647f9aff_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5006/5310813445_95909b224c_b.jpg


i'm thinking of having the hardline cut before the steel braided line and after the braided line before it goes into the oilpan. Put a flexible rubber hose on that can handle the hot oil and pressure.
I dont know exactly what I would need in the way of line and clamps. If people have ideas and where i should go for them let me know.

RONDAL
01-02-2011, 09:44 AM
No one?

coreyj
01-02-2011, 10:33 AM
hey please tell me you replaced the rear main seal on the crankshaft and not just the gasket for the cover...? i could not source just the rear main seal so i had to buy the whole flange new @$120 plus the $10 gasket.

gearhead1186
01-02-2011, 10:49 AM
i'm also debating something similiar on the passenger side oil return line. its a touch too short and isn't lining up right. i've tried clocking the center of the turbo, i've tried loosening the turbo to manifold bolts to get myself some play to hook it up, i've bent twisted and tried everything but its just a touch too short.




try taking the turbo off the manifold, hook up the oil return line and then bolt the turbo back up. its easier to maneuver a big turbo than a small line. i remember mine being a slightly tough fit as well but I didnt need to reclock anything.

coreyj
01-02-2011, 10:49 AM
another note ive ran bent coolant lines before and never had a problem as long as they dont leak also it doesnt slow down flow as much as you think, you would be perfectly fine running that line. as far as the oil return DO NOT USE RUBBER HOSE ON IT. if you are going to have to cut it then have an extension welded in it.

RONDAL
01-02-2011, 11:02 AM
The problem with the oil return mike is I've loosens the turbo bolts as much as possible. I've loosens the return line into the turbo and into the pan. I'm worried when I go to tighten it's not gonna seal up right even if I get it the bolt to start threading.

RONDAL
01-02-2011, 11:03 AM
Yes I replaced whole rear main haha

RONDAL
01-02-2011, 11:10 AM
anyone have a pdf showing how to do the JHM shifter linkage upgrade install. their damn video on their website wont work for me

gearhead1186
01-02-2011, 11:35 AM
The problem with the oil return mike is I've loosens the turbo bolts as much as possible. I've loosens the return line into the turbo and into the pan. I'm worried when I go to tighten it's not gonna seal up right even if I get it the bolt to start threading.

pull the whole turbo off and fully attach the oil return line. then mount the turbo again. see what happens.

RONDAL
01-02-2011, 08:22 PM
got the oil line sorted, it was a 2 man job.

When installing the flywheel does anything special need to be going on with the starter. I know the teeth on the flywheel link in with the starter, but do i need to worry about positioning those now, or when I bolt the rest of the tranny up.

Just dont want to go too far and have to pop things back off again.


also anyone got torque specs on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts? .....and no i dont have a bentley.

RONDAL
01-02-2011, 08:23 PM
Also in the mood of "name that part"

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5249/5317949839_b489185d6e_b.jpg


They came from JHM. They are either ER intercooler related or transmission related. I'm leaning towards intercoolers but i'd like confirmation if possible.

lsc2g
01-02-2011, 08:36 PM
i think thats for your horn relocation andrew.. my RS4s had something similiar which i junked and just set the horns in a open area and was good to go

cjernigan
01-02-2011, 08:54 PM
If you need a coolant pump delete kit (034) I have one in my toolbox and can UPS it to you Monday. PM if needed.

Matt Danger
01-02-2011, 09:41 PM
Also in the mood of "name that part" They came from JHM. They are either ER intercooler related or transmission related. I'm leaning towards intercoolers but i'd like confirmation if possible.

AC canister and horn relocation brackets. Part of the ER kit. I didn't use the AC bracket, I used a large worn clamp wrapped around the chassis. Kinda hack, but does a better job of keeping the canister from rubbing the intercooler.

Dutchsider
01-02-2011, 09:55 PM
Torque specs for the flywheel bolts

Book says tighten to 60Nm then turn another 180 degrees

RONDAL
01-02-2011, 09:57 PM
i think thats for your horn relocation andrew.. my RS4s had something similiar which i junked and just set the horns in a open area and was good to go

ok cool.
who is this, i know you're on ED but cant tell username?

cjerinigan i'll shoot you a PM in a bit with address details. Wanna PM me price?

RONDAL
01-02-2011, 09:58 PM
Torque specs for the flywheel bolts

Book says tighten to 60Nm then turn another 180 degrees

thank you sir.
while i'm doing that you wanna let me know the pressure plate? i think its 22Nm but just want to double check

Dutchsider
01-02-2011, 10:03 PM
yeah, I was just going to post that as well. It is indeed 22Nm

RONDAL
01-03-2011, 12:11 AM
spider hose broke when i was taking it off. more like i looked at it and it shattered.
This piece hooks up to the waste gate and actuator.
DOes it hook up to the spider hose as well? i cant tell.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5319281706_d244c858b4_b.jpg


I bought a new spider hose, looking to isntall it. See the two outlet ports on the back of the manifold. DOes it matter which one the spider hose attaches to? What attaches to the other port

[img]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5166/5318690565_1347092165_b.jpg[img]


i just spent 45 minutes writing out what i did today only to have IE8 crash on me.......FFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU bill gates.

RONDAL
01-03-2011, 12:30 AM
Lets try this again.....

GOt oil line hooked up yay!
Had to take turbo off and get someone to hold it and guide it down while i used some pliers to manipulate the flange into position. THey need to put something in the kits for these the stock lines are so stressed when everything is in final position.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5166/5317869105_1df3eb5d62_b.jpg

Bolted up the stock drivers side lower intercooler hose

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5048/5318460208_8a60083dc9_b.jpg

CHecked fitment with everything else

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5048/5317961423_d7bddbeefb_b.jpg


Hooked up actuator and signal lines

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5082/5318570034_684fa68fd5_b.jpg

Bolted up motor mount. Is there a torque spec on these things?


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5247/5318713749_6b2c6118bd_b.jpg


Since drivers side is all done i put the vitton ring in the inlet pipe and mounted it up

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5289/5319317706_74bc42ffe7_b.jpg


Next was time for the tranny. I dont want sloppy seconds anymore, or the other 5 gears for that matter so i picked up a delrin bushing and a solid weighted linkage. yay notchy gears

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5166/5317874903_50e048cc28_b.jpg


Undone off the tranny

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5046/5317897591_e97ac77494_b.jpg

Popped the boot off and the washer out

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5249/5318479094_219599c308_b.jpg

Chopped the bottom off the cup as per spec

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5166/5318482310_9bb23f6ccf_b.jpg


Installed new bearing and washer using a socket to evenly bang them down into place

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5127/5318543070_a7b42a2eee_b.jpg


Greased up and reinstalled

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5006/5317964205_8f4b246ac6_b.jpg

RONDAL
01-03-2011, 12:38 AM
Opened up the new dual mass flywheel

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5050/5318708849_f7df6418de_b.jpg

Installed using Vin Diesel's favorite weapon

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5288/5319277566_64da92eee7_b.jpg



New stage 4 endurance clutch

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5001/5319270530_567fdcd9b6_b.jpg

installed

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/5318686643_a5fa9acd53_b.jpg

New pressure plate


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5129/5319279606_53c01039c2_b.jpg


Popped out the old throw out bearing

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5248/5319288200_ebe40b230b_b.jpg

Popped the new one in

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5047/5318700675_43c4b00f9d_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5248/5318704691_fe53e248e6_b.jpg



And thats where we stand.
1 full day of work in the garage left before i gotta go back to my real desk job.
5 days until car has to vacate the garage. Crunch time.

Still to do:
injectors
plumb in all the boost stuff from turbos to the sensors and stuff
spider hose
fix coolant line monday morning
passenger side mounts and inlets
bolt tranny back up to engine
new coilpacks
spark plugs
serp belt
diverter valves
intercoolers
axles
fuel pump
boost gauge
uggghhhhh

DiscoPotato
01-03-2011, 06:49 AM
I love this thread reminds me of the build im completeing now.. minus all the extreme goodies.

DiscoPotato
01-03-2011, 06:57 AM
Just ask yourself this question: if that coolant line fails in two weeks or two months from now, how much work is it going to be to replace it?

yes.

gearhead1186
01-03-2011, 04:31 PM
spider hose broke when i was taking it off. more like i looked at it and it shattered.
This piece hooks up to the waste gate and actuator.
DOes it hook up to the spider hose as well? i cant tell.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5319281706_d244c858b4_b.jpg


I bought a new spider hose, looking to isntall it. See the two outlet ports on the back of the manifold. DOes it matter which one the spider hose attaches to? What attaches to the other port

[img]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5166/5318690565_1347092165_b.jpg[img]



The two larger ports on the back of the intake are for the spider hose and for the brake booster. Doesnt matter which goes where. As long as it all fits.

Here is a diagram of the N75.. green is compressor signal, purple is spider hose or open and gray is for the wastegates.

http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/12010/audin75.jpg

RONDAL
01-03-2011, 05:00 PM
thanks mike
stupid question of the day....and this comes after i've spent the last 5.5 hours trying to get the tranny on and its no closer to being on tahn it was 5.25 hours ago.

Where is the delrin bushing located?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5006/5317964205_8f4b246ac6_b.jpg


Is it the bushing on the arm opposite the shifter linkage? or is it somewhere else. I eyeballed the size of the bushing on the other arm but its too small for what I have.

RONDAL
01-03-2011, 05:03 PM
or is this it?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5248/5318439254_df9dbcbe12_b.jpg

Matt Danger
01-03-2011, 05:07 PM
Where is the delrin bushing located?

It's on the shift linkage stabilizer shaft where it mounts to the trans.

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/5606/transd.jpg

Installed pic:

http://jhmotorsports.com/products/pictures/linkages/JHM_Shifter_Stabilizer_Bushing_Comparison_installe d.jpg

Matt Danger
01-03-2011, 05:09 PM
or is this it?

That's for a DP support bracket.

RONDAL
01-03-2011, 05:11 PM
It's on the shift linkage stabilizer shaft where it mounts to the trans.

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/5606/transd.jpg

Installed pic:

http://jhmotorsports.com/products/pictures/linkages/JHM_Shifter_Stabilizer_Bushing_Comparison_installe d.jpg

Thank you sir.


I was 99% sure that was it, but when you eyeball it, the delrin looks a lot bigger.

I was also 100% sure that other one was a DP support bracket but i figured it was worth asking rather than installing wrong.


if anyone has any magic tricks to bolting the tranny up im all ears.

Matt Danger
01-03-2011, 05:27 PM
Put a socket on the front crank bolt and turn the engine over little by little until the input shaft lines up with the clutch splines. It may also help to straddle the trans and jiggle/rotate it back and forth. Took me a while to get it bolted up too.

RONDAL
01-03-2011, 05:33 PM
no wonder i couldnt figure this out before....the delrin bushing i was sent is far too big for the arm i have. theres no way its fitting in there.

RONDAL
01-03-2011, 06:01 PM
did i maybe get sent an "early" model one? are they slightly bigger than the late model which I have. i'm an 01.5

RONDAL
01-04-2011, 10:11 AM
anyone know the difference in the delrin bushings between the early and late model s4's?

Dutchsider
01-04-2011, 11:12 AM
I have the late version and got it in no problem. Might want to call JHM

RONDAL
01-04-2011, 12:03 PM
i put a digi caliper in the arm to measure the inner diameter. i got 25mm. What they sent me was 29mm.
Got Nik at CTS to measure up the one he has and its 26.7mm. Gonna see if i can hammer that one in to fit.

totally weird.

Don Supreme
01-04-2011, 12:12 PM
Have you missed your deadline?

RONDAL
01-04-2011, 12:45 PM
yes.

hence why im whoring the internet from my office. outta here at 4pm and going to try and get that damn tranny on. if i can get car buttoned up by friday or the weekend i will still consider this a success.

CTS Turbo
01-04-2011, 12:55 PM
Looks good, Andrew. You may have a late model with old bushing, who knows?

I'm sending you the smaller bushing by air today. Let's get this bad-boy finished.

RONDAL
01-04-2011, 01:35 PM
wOOt.

and this is why you use CTS. if that aint customer support i dont know what is.

RONDAL
01-04-2011, 10:23 PM
So today was first day back in the real office, pretty slow so i got my base map sorted out with Tapp so thats ready to go in once everything is back up. Dealt with the coolant hose getting to me by after work, and read about what would stop tranny from hooking back up.

Came home and time to DO WORK.

made a cradle for the transmission out of my two race jacks under each tranny mount, and a normal jack under the end that attaches to the drive axle. this would allow me full precision when rolling it around and leveling it. Also used 2 jackstands under the engine in the hoist to give me something to push against.

I removed the pressure plate, checked the splines on the clutch, all was good. lubed the splines on the input shaft, and installed the slave cylinder to ensure it operated properly again.

Moved the two pieces together and through some fine adjustments got it all levelled up. Took me maybe 45 minutes of fine tuning but i got both level, and low and behold after a slight jiggle they went together. What a piss off....why couldn't that happen yesterday.


Before I got too far ahead of myself I installed the new coolant line that I was VERY fortunate to get. Thank you Royal oak Audi!
Clearanced the starter round it and installed the motor mount before bolting up the starter. Otherwise its a total pain to get at once the starter is bolted into place.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5287/5326256000_237d2a7891_b.jpg


Once that was on bolted up the rest of the tranny.

I can haz a drivetrain pleece?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5326251064_6f982c3a83_b.jpg


With the passenger side lines all hooked up and the mount bracket in place, time to install the mount itself, the inlet tube, and bolt up the lower intercooler piping.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5245/5326258380_e28b24e563_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5326265392_b8720fbd96_b.jpg


Tomorrow the new delrin should arrive from CTS. I will install that, double check all transmission stuff, and i want to get the engine into the car right away.
PureMS...i love you guys to bits....but i wish they would have sent my tranny mounts priority mail instead of taking 10 days. Gonna have to do those in the car. ARGGHH

Bleed the slave cylinder, flush the transmission, and then can start on buttoning everything up with the engine in the car.

Would be super cool if I could get the car to the welder on Friday to get the transitions and V-bands welded up to the new exhaust so they will mate up with the downpipes.

RONDAL
01-04-2011, 10:32 PM
this is kinda out of order but whatever....this is what i accomplished yesterday haha.

New slave from USP....metal so no breaky breaky.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/5326325846_0c133771dd_b.jpg

Installed it, and with my hand inside on the throwout bearing ensured that there was proper movement and no binding. Didn't want to have to pull the engine out again because the clutch fork wouldn't engage. Helped graeme do that on his allroad. Not cool.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5126/5326328030_437c52cd66_b.jpg

The famous delrin bushing....

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5201/5325723509_b66ec09fc8_b.jpg

The slow and awkward mating rital begins...

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5325725297_dd97e12fc4_b.jpg

Dutchsider
01-04-2011, 11:36 PM
Ugh, this has me dreading mating the tranny to the motor. The race is on to get the powerplants back in their homes

RONDAL
01-04-2011, 11:43 PM
my little ghetto setup with the 3 jacks worked like a charm.
i'd definetly get a pallet if doing it again, but the jacks worked pretty damn well. allows you to be VERY precise when lining things up

Dutchsider
01-05-2011, 02:09 AM
I have 2 pallets at the shop. I am going to plop the tranny on those and move the engine in to place. Hopefully that gets the job done pretty quick.

DiscoPotato
01-05-2011, 06:52 AM
I have 2 pallets at the shop. I am going to plop the tranny on those and move the engine in to place. Hopefully that gets the job done pretty quick.
Tire works great. I had my tranny sitting on a tire and leveled out by a floor jack at the rear of the tranny and had my motor on a hoist and it took me 10 mins to mate them.

RONDAL
01-05-2011, 09:12 AM
that just makes me angry to hear.

i tried for 5 hours nothing.

i did remove the clutch, and even with the tool i think it was slightly misaligned. which would have been the reason why it never wanted to go

BlakMarketKlash
01-05-2011, 04:25 PM
Imz cyked to see this come together RONDAL. And i think i met Graeme at a gas station with his AR, that thing sounded beastly!

Nate

RONDAL
01-05-2011, 10:34 PM
first, a big FCUK YOU to Evolution Racewerks. They forgot a crucial piece of their kit, the lower intercooler pipe. I've left multiple voicemails, and sent 3 emails in the last 36 hours, and made possibly 50+ calls to them today. I got through once to a guy who took my info and said their head guy would call me back right away he had just stepped out. Nothing.

second, JHM.....you sent me the wrong delrin. A $30 part which is now going to cost me a boatload of time to replace cause the engine is going in.

*rant time*
When you pay the kind of money we pay for parts for these cars, is it too much to expect to get a) what you specifically asked for, and b) half decent customer service? Or do these companies just hire knuckle draggers? People seem to think its acceptable to half ass their jobs, and the customer wont mind. When you're daily driver is off the road, and you're stuck waiting on parts, its not only a slight inconvience, it gets expensive.
/rant


Just annoyed at this point. This should not have taken this long. Missing parts and a mistake by me has really set me back, and it pisses me off.


Downpipes are on....

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5010/5328825185_a19e93d1c8_b.jpg


Make sure you get turbo gaskets, the tial kit doesn't come with them

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5085/5329437924_f06845ecc0_b.jpg


Boom shakalaka

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5005/5329442980_ed06432598_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5043/5329441158_494bdd51fa_b.jpg


Sat around waiting for someone to come help put engine in, they didn't......used the time to go over everything one last time to ensure they were tight, torqued, etc.


Started to fiddle around with the slave cylinder.
USP does provide instructions for the install and i printed them off.

Stock slave

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5249/5328835815_919f08709d_b.jpg

Undo this bolt in the engine bay to remove the line

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5290/5329450130_3195fa4526_b.jpg


You can see down beside the master cylinder the line coming through the firewall from underneath

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/5328834023_6e3b90aa47_b.jpg


They say undo the clip and pull the line forward towards the front of the car, its then supposed to pop out.
a) i cant even get my hand in there to pull it,
b) i got a screwdriver in there to pry it out but it wont budge
c) it looks like it terminates under the brake booster? how the hell do you install the new one

When i look from underneath i see this light bluish colored bolt which is in the exact place it seems the hardline through the firewall terminates?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5286/5329448370_5aec762bd0_b.jpg

Any ideas?

gearhead1186
01-05-2011, 10:59 PM
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/5328834023_6e3b90aa47_b.jpg

you see that fitting on the firewall between the booster and the ecu box? thats where the slave line terminates. get a screwdriver in there to pop out the clip and then just yank. I cut the line in two so it was easier to pull out.

RONDAL
01-05-2011, 11:13 PM
i put a screwdriver on that and smacked it with a hammer. Nothing.

When I install the new line, where does it originate from? I thought it was from under the master cylinder, but i cant get under there to even see where it would go in?

gearhead1186
01-05-2011, 11:17 PM
i put a screwdriver on that and smacked it with a hammer. Nothing.

When I install the new line, where does it originate from? I thought it was from under the master cylinder, but i cant get under there to even see where it would go in?

the clip should come out easily. it took a good tug to actually pull the line out. new line directly replaces the original line. nothing to it.

RONDAL
01-05-2011, 11:28 PM
where does it go into the master cylinder though? underneath? is there a way to lift the master cylinder up at all?

Right now i'm scared to yank the old one as i cant even see where it finishes up, and dont know if i can get the new one in there.

RONDAL
01-06-2011, 10:20 AM
in addition to the question i have above on the slave, does anyone have any tips or tricks for reinstalling the engine into the bay?
I'm gonna have to attempt this tonite alone, and i'd like to minimize the chances of fcuking anything up or damaging anything.

Any help or tips are appreciated.

wdbdy2000s4
01-06-2011, 10:38 AM
install the slave before you put the motor all of the way back in. Otherwise there is limited room and you might have to remove a dp to mess with it. Loosen the motor mounts so they are easy to line up. Jack up the hubs and slide the axles back in before the motor is fully lowered, it will give you more room.

s4nicetry
01-06-2011, 10:51 AM
Well I never replaced my slave line when I pulled so I can't help you there but I will say for all the times when it's good to have two people it's when dropping the engine back in the cradle. I had someone rolling the hoist while I was under manuvering the guts into place. Roll the hoist slowly in and stop a couple inches before final position. Stuff the heaters coolant lines up through the firewall and start jamming the shifter linkage into their respective boots. (some lube helps with the big one) Now as long as your slaveline swap is already complete it's time to wrestle the slave into place. I jacked up the bottom of the tranny and wrestled with that bitch for some time to get the bolt into place (mother@$#%$%!!!) sorry just rehashing old memories. Now just roll the guts to their final place slowly, making sure nothing is getting crushed between the engine and firewall and that the driveshaft is lined up. Set her down on the mounts and start bolting everything back together. Fun stuff, I can't wait to do it all again soon lol.

gearhead1186
01-06-2011, 11:42 AM
where does it go into the master cylinder though? underneath? is there a way to lift the master cylinder up at all?

Right now i'm scared to yank the old one as i cant even see where it finishes up, and dont know if i can get the new one in there.

are you mixing up slave and master cylinder? i dont see why you would need to move the master cylinder to install the ss line.

RONDAL
01-06-2011, 12:29 PM
Lets ask the obviously stupid question then;
Where does the new USP line START. I know it terminates at the slave.

I'm going to pull on the stock hardline from where i removed the clip shown here
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/5328834023_6e3b90aa47_b.jpg

Am I removing that entire hardline all the way to the master cylinder where it originates? Or does the stainless line supplied hook into that hardline somehow.

I agree this should be simple, but after mucking about with it for 30 minutes last night, i'm left slightly confused. I dont see a break anywhere in that hardline outside of what is in the engine bay. As I can see and understand it, its basically a hardline all the way into the master cylinder.

Somebody set me straight if I'm wrong.
I'd love for this to take me 20 minutes when I get home tonite.

kramrs2
01-06-2011, 12:36 PM
Another hint, before you put the engine back I would put a clamp on the intake Tial pipes and the support on the block.
Some reported that the pipe could move under positive pressure (pressure test). Some welded a support to screw it tighted to the bkock, but just the clamp hold the pipe good enought.

Matt Danger
01-06-2011, 12:37 PM
install the slave before you put the motor all of the way back in. Otherwise there is limited room and you might have to remove a dp to mess with it. Loosen the motor mounts so they are easy to line up. Jack up the hubs and slide the axles back in before the motor is fully lowered, it will give you more room.

Yeah, definitely install the slave then the engine is a foot or so forward, makes it a lot easier. Then just be careful not to pinch anything back there when installing the motor. Can also try and slip the axles when the motor is a little bit forward. It gives you a little extra room. You'll want to have a floor jack under the trans to help tilt/level the assembly back into the bay. A prybar helps align the motor mounts with the correct mounting holes. Just take your time and check for clearance a lot. Definitely helpful to have someone helping but I've also done it alone.

RONDAL
01-06-2011, 12:42 PM
Another hint, before you put the engine back I would put a clamp on the intake Tial pipes and the support on the block.
Some reported that the pipe could move under positive pressure (pressure test). Some welded a support to screw it tighted to the bkock, but just the clamp hold the pipe good enought.

how would you put a clamp on the Tial inlets? They are solid metal with a rubber vitton ring that holds them in place

Any pics of what you are describing i'm just having a hard time visualizing.

gearhead1186
01-06-2011, 12:54 PM
Lets ask the obviously stupid question then;
Where does the new USP line START. I know it terminates at the slave.

I'm going to pull on the stock hardline from

starts here and ends at slave. oh shit moment? [:D]

http://inlinethumb19.webshots.com/4562/2863131200103989424S600x600Q85.jpg

RONDAL
01-06-2011, 01:58 PM
yes.

maybe i dont want to break that then hahaha.

This is why i was like wtf why cant i get under the master cylinder and you're sitting there going "its super easy" and im like "wtf are you talking about"

so after removing the clip you just gave it a yank mike?

I haven't "bled" the old slave. So there's still fluid in the line. Is it going to bleed down the entire master cylinder? i have brake fluid ready to go in, just want to know how much fluid is going to be coming oiut for me to deal with haha

Dutchsider
01-06-2011, 02:16 PM
This pic is sexy. The boomshakalaka also made me want to play NBA Jam

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5005/5329442980_ed06432598_b.jpg

kramrs2
01-06-2011, 02:20 PM
You can see what I am talking about here: http://audisrs.com/ftopic17401-0-asc-90.php

I don't have pictures of my setup but its a metal clamp like this: http://www.aapsa.com.au/awshop/images/Norma-Clamp-HDWD-300.jpg

and placed as this (yellow):
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/3999/fotoo.png

RONDAL
01-06-2011, 02:24 PM
oh ok. Basically it just stops the inlet from moving side to side?
I would have thought with positive pressure the inlet would want to move towards the front of the car, basically shooting itself off of the compressor inlet

i have a couple of big ones i'll use to secure it as pictured.

kramrs2
01-06-2011, 02:29 PM
May be the picture does not say a thousand words... the clamp should block ANY movement. The pressure will make the inlet twist and go forward, like going to the headlight and turning. I think mike soldered something like MRC did on that post on SRS.com forum.

RONDAL
01-06-2011, 02:33 PM
i'll hook up a clamp as soon as I get home and see how effective its going to be.
I guess its either that or wedging wood or whatever down to stop it from popping off.

gearhead1186
01-06-2011, 03:09 PM
yes.

maybe i dont want to break that then hahaha.

This is why i was like wtf why cant i get under the master cylinder and you're sitting there going "its super easy" and im like "wtf are you talking about"

so after removing the clip you just gave it a yank mike?

I haven't "bled" the old slave. So there's still fluid in the line. Is it going to bleed down the entire master cylinder? i have brake fluid ready to go in, just want to know how much fluid is going to be coming oiut for me to deal with haha

ha yea i had to give mine a pretty good yank but it comes straight out. not much fluid will come out. one rag will be enough.

i feel like the clamp on the inlet isnt completely necessary. the only time you MIGHT have an issue is when you are pressure testing since the inlets dont normally see pressure. ive pressure tested up to 15lbs without the inlet shooting off. 20psi required a 2x4 or something to keep the inlets on but you shouldnt need to go to 20psi to find a leak.

RONDAL
01-06-2011, 03:22 PM
cool thanks man.

RONDAL
01-06-2011, 07:45 PM
Engine is slowly inching its way in, few questions;

1. o2 sensors - does it matter which side they go on?

2. shifter bar - there are two holes in the boot, one above the other. I didn't take note when they came out which one went into which hole. Linkage bar goes into which?

Don Supreme
01-06-2011, 07:50 PM
The bad thing about not having the inlets mate up to that tab, is they will pop off when pressure testing, if you don't secure them.....

RONDAL
01-06-2011, 09:44 PM
yeah i got that figured out.

got the back o2 sensors sorted too. i found a R tag on one of them, assuming that means right.

RONDAL
01-06-2011, 11:05 PM
ran out of time tonite.
stuck here

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5043/5332469490_9bf65ccc6f_b.jpg

Going to rebleed the clutch tomorrow, the o2 sensors are in their correct spots.
Still need to figure out the shifter linkages and which goes where. I thought it would be easy to tell. Its not.


Anyone got any idea what these two sensors hook up to? They go into a loom of wiring where the big metal coolant hardline is at the back of the intake manifold above the tranny. The clips are purple.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5088/5332472788_ea12154325_b.jpg

gearhead1186
01-06-2011, 11:09 PM
they run down each side of the tranny. right by the axles.

RONDAL
01-07-2011, 07:23 AM
mike any idea on the shifter linkage and which goes where?

i cant tell from your pics though i see you pulled the whole shifter box at the same time

gearhead1186
01-07-2011, 08:47 AM
mike any idea on the shifter linkage and which goes where?

i cant tell from your pics though i see you pulled the whole shifter box at the same time

the left one does the actual shifting. the right one acts as an anchor. looking at the shifter you should be able to figure it out. in the picture below you see the anchor. Here is JHM's install video (http://audishifter.com/videos/B5_A4-S4-Passat_install_vid.wmv).

http://jhmotorsports.com/products/shifterstyle/B5_A4-S4_97-99.5_shifter_Assy.JPG

RONDAL
01-07-2011, 09:01 AM
sweet thanks.

its frustrating when small crap like that, which should take like 2 minutes, end up taking 1+ hours cause i gotta go back inside, scour the internet, if i cant find the answer post a question.

i really appreciate the help to those that have been answering questions

RONDAL
01-07-2011, 11:23 AM
In the spirit of DIY stuff....

With gearhead giving me the a ha! moment yesterday with respect to the clutch slave cylinder hose, i went home and yanked it out from the firewall. I had thought the line went up inside the firewall from below, and terminated at the master cylinder bottom. i was very wrong.

old line out, new line in. Undid the plastic ECU bottom so i could get my large hand in and shove the nipple in all the way. it was only 2 nuts holding it down and made it a breeze to pop in.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5290/5332464026_05a8d3631a_b.jpg


To get the old line out, i ynaked out as hard as i could, then once it was free pulled as hard as i could from the engine bay end. You pull the rubber grommet near the battery through tha tis the rain tray drain, but its an easy reinstall.
Otherwise i have heard of people cutting the line. The metal bends just make it tough to remove.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5083/5331857605_8350dd8db3_b.jpg


When hooking up the rear o2 sensors you will see these little white bands around them. They have an L and an R on them. Designating left and right. One of mine was missing and the other way covered in dirt but a quick clean got them where they needed to be.
For the pre-cat o2's they tie into the wiring harness on their appropriate sides so its easy enough to figure out.
Trick for installing them is to wind them up, this way as you screw them in they unwind and you dont bind the wires and break them. Otherwise you're going to have to replace the wiring and that sucks

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5332476408_a6e8292b0f_b.jpg


As you can see from above I was unable to get the engine in last night, so i missed my appointment with the welder today. The earliest i can get it in there now is next wednesday which sucks. Another 5 days without a car. I'm really starting to regret this project and the time of the year I chose to do it.
Snow is in the forecast for the weekend which means lying on a cold garage floor doing up axles and driveshafts (seems like 6 months ago i undid them) and taking the bus SUCKS.
Hopefully it will all be worth it when the project is done.

Angular
01-07-2011, 01:03 PM
Pardon my ignorance here, but is it critical to replace that clutch master-to-slave line? Seems like a PITA, so just wondering what the benefit to replacing it is.

lsc2g
01-07-2011, 01:34 PM
andrew you got home already and got it dropped down???? or is it still hanging like last night just pushed back more inside?

looks awesome tho

RONDAL
01-07-2011, 02:33 PM
Pardon my ignorance here, but is it critical to replace that clutch master-to-slave line? Seems like a PITA, so just wondering what the benefit to replacing it is.

the stock one is plastic, and an even bigger PITA to put back in, and ensure it works properly and bleed than this one.

Now that i know how to do the clutch line, its a breeze. it allows me to bleed the slave as the engine is pictured above and test it before putting engine all the way in. This way if something is wrong its easy to diagnose and fix rather than having the whole engine in. Its also really easy to crush the slave reinstalling the engine.

RONDAL
01-07-2011, 02:34 PM
andrew you got home already and got it dropped down???? or is it still hanging like last night just pushed back more inside?

looks awesome tho

i'm still at the office. heading home in an hour or so. left it hanging. its been hanging for 10 days now...whats another 12 hours haha.