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s4dc3
08-16-2010, 08:07 PM
i have a very stock 1.8t quattro and i have $800 to spend and i am stuck on what to get. i am leaning toward some bbs wheels. what yall think i should do?

EErie B6
08-16-2010, 08:10 PM
what year is it?
how many miles?

it would be smart to get all the service up to date first. that way its at least reliable. otherwise you are likely to be plagued with problems and some of them can be very expensive if not caught in time.

guy022077
08-16-2010, 08:11 PM
what year is it? 96-99 get one piece headlights
how many miles? if youve never done timing belt DO IT NOW
looks: dont buy wheels if you cant get springs 4x4 is a no no
speed: get some better brake pads and chip it
reliability: do as much PM as you can for 800$

Steven001
08-16-2010, 08:44 PM
Id chip it.. http://www.goapr.com/products/?category=Audi .... it makes a big difference
I put the apr stage one in my 2.0t and its like a new car again.
Best (most fun) $500 I ever spent on the car.

Dynamite
08-16-2010, 08:48 PM
Do the service stuff.
If that is all up to date, then I would suggest going stage one (make sure you get the right brand for your future goals) and some OEM sport shocks/springs, if you have enough left over then get a rear sway bar. Leave wheels until you need new tires, or you need new pads or rotors. this is because if you get new rims then most likely you will need new tires as well, or if you need to replace pads or rotors then you may as well upgrade to the TT/A8 kit, which requires at lest 16s, most have 15s stock

walky_talky20
08-16-2010, 08:59 PM
Hmm, that was about my budget for the first round of mods I did. I got:

- APR "loaded" chipped ECU, used: $300
- H&R Sport springs (used) and used low-mile OEM sport shocks: $250
- B6 Sport 5 Spoke 17" Rims, used and decently refinished: $300
- 4 Bridgestone Potenza 225/45/17 tires, used with 6/32 remaining: Free from dumpster of local dealership (had to patch 1 small puncture)
- All installation I did myself.

So for about $850 I took my stock, lift-kit A4, gave it some power and made it handle and look like it should. Not too bad. My next mod after that was used VDO boost gauge for $30, and I modded my own HVAC vent to make a vent pod for it. My next performance upgrade would be a 5-speed swap. Next handling upgrade would be sway bars. Hope that gives you some idea of the "bargain" mods you can do. These are Audi's, though. Let's not kid ourselves...there are no bargains, haha.

Totally agree on the service stuff. If all your maintenance isn't up to date, you gotta do that first. No use modding a car that's falling apart.

s4dc3
08-16-2010, 09:12 PM
119k miles, 2000, i am having it tuned up and worked on before i install anything, buh it looks like ill be getting a new exhaust set up and BOV

EErie B6
08-16-2010, 09:17 PM
timing belt!! if it has not already been done. thats one thing you cant afford to skip.

h4robkr123
08-16-2010, 09:28 PM
Don't do a BOV, for lack of explanation you would need a recirc kit and in the end it would be easy just to plug and play with a DV. You can go out and buy a metal one like the Forge 007 or APR R1 for $150ish, or the oem bosch 710N that will do the exact same for around $40 IIRC. But before all, like stated above, timing belt if it has not yet been done. That will save you quite a bit of cash in the end.

Dynamite
08-16-2010, 09:37 PM
dont get a blow off valve for two reasons, one they sound stupid, but if you like that then thats up to you, the real reason is that they vent to the atmosphere, this means that it screws up how much air the ecu thinks is in the intake after the maf has taken its reading. If you want the sound then there is a forge hybrid DV/blowoff valve that lets just enough air out that you get the psssss sound but minimizes the miscalculation from the ecu. go with that one.

Bvulic
08-16-2010, 09:49 PM
I say you lower, and get an exhaust. In my opinion.

h4robkr123
08-16-2010, 09:53 PM
The forge hybrid is called the Splitter and it can be adjusted percent wise for how much air gets recirculated and how much is released, or "blown off", into the atmosphere

walky_talky20
08-16-2010, 10:09 PM
The forge hybrid is called the Splitter and it can be adjusted percent wise for how much air gets recirculated and how much is released, or "blown off", into the atmosphere

Not really. The spring pressure is the only adjustment. Otherwise it has 3 modes, full BOV, full DV, and splitter mode. That is all. The reason it has such fine adjustment on the spring is to make sure that it stays closed at idle. That is extremely important for valves that open to atmosphere. Else you get false air. The adjustement in no way changes the orifice sizes for the recirc or blow-off passages.

s4dc3
08-16-2010, 10:13 PM
i was under the impression that if one was going to be doing multiple upgrades some sort of BOV or DV was helpful for boost pressures or something of that sort

Dynamite
08-17-2010, 03:28 AM
even if you just chip then you need to upgrade the DV. DV and BOVs work in different ways though. The reason you need to upgrade the DV is because the stock one is old, worn out and only made to put up with the stock 1.8t boost and flow. the standard upgrade is to the N710 this is the same DV as used on the s3, TT225 RS4 and probably some other models and it is stronger, I do not know if the spring rates are different or not, walkytalky or someone similar will be able to correct me on that one. I stated why you cant change to a BOV above, go with the forge splitter if you want the noise, otherwise the N710 is the cheapest option or there are a number of other after market adjustable DVs available. going to a BOV will screw up your AFR because the car thinks there is more air in the system than there actually is because it vented to the atmosphere. Our cars have completely closed intake systems after the MAF, ie no air in or out, this is why boost leaks can cause such issues, it is also why you shouldn't run a BOV

Watson
08-17-2010, 04:50 AM
If i were in your shoes.....I would save that $800, and keep saving, if you really plan on keeping this car a while and want to be fast/have a nice look than save up money for a good turbo kit/ecu and a nice set of coilovers/wheels. But maintnance if always first priorety or else all that money you spend on mods you may not be able to enjoy when you bend your valves, or blow your head gasket. & don't get a blow of valve, in my opinion they sound ricey and its for people who want to show you that they have a turbo and that they want to loose their boost by putting it into open atmosphere, full DV and you technically keep your boost when shifting, it makes scence.....to most of us.

EErie B6
08-17-2010, 06:08 AM
[>_<]
in my opinion they sound ricey and its for people who want to show you that they have a turbo and that they want to loose their boost by putting it into open atmosphere, full DV and you technically keep your boost when shifting, it makes scence.....to most of us. lol. its probably best if you just stop talking.

Watson
08-17-2010, 07:23 AM
Sorry I just think it sounds stupid, flame me cause I may have gotten the facts wrong but I still think it sounds really really really stupid

JumboBlack1.8
08-17-2010, 07:48 AM
Sorry I just think it sounds stupid, flame me cause I may have gotten the facts wrong but I still think it sounds really really really stupid

BOV's are functional for certain applications. All of the BAT guys run them, myself included......but this is not one of those applications.....Get a DV. Read the FAQ, for god's sake

EErie B6
08-17-2010, 09:26 AM
Sorry I just think it sounds stupid, flame me cause I may have gotten the facts wrong but I still think it sounds really really really stupid
the purpose of both a DV and a BOV is the same... to dump boost when the throttle plate closes in order to keep the turbo from stalling. not having one is bad for the turbo, and bad for power when you want quick boost after you grab the next gear.

when you see ads that say "keep your boost, replace your DV" they are not comparing it to a BOV, but instead to your OEM DV(s) which might be leaking through its diaphragm cause its worn out... or because if you are chipped you might be running more boost than the OEM DV can hold back. or perhaps you have a worn out spring...etc.

the difference between a DV and BOV is that the DV puts the air back in the intake after the MAF. this is needed because the air being "blown off" or "diverted" has already been measured by the MAF and blowing it off to the atmosphere throws off the fuel trims causing a rich condition. neither has a performance advantage over the other. Keeping the metered air in our intake tract just keeps our ECU happy.

if you do want the sound then something like the Forge Splitter is a good option. it "blows off" a small % of air to create the noise while diverting the rest. if you choose this route, then its best to mechanically bypass your "n249"... this will minimize fuel trim issues.

kaban
08-17-2010, 10:42 AM
I might be bitter because my car is a turd but I'd say do maintenance and some more maintenance.

Watson
08-17-2010, 11:07 AM
the purpose of both a DV and a BOV is the same... to dump boost when the throttle plate closes in order to keep the turbo from stalling. not having one is bad for the turbo, and bad for power when you want quick boost after you grab the next gear.

when you see ads that say "keep your boost, replace your DV" they are not comparing it to a BOV, but instead to your OEM DV(s) which might be leaking through its diaphragm cause its worn out... or because if you are chipped you might be running more boost than the OEM DV can hold back. or perhaps you have a worn out spring...etc.

the difference between a DV and BOV is that the DV puts the air back in the intake after the MAF. this is needed because the air being "blown off" or "diverted" has already been measured by the MAF and blowing it off to the atmosphere throws off the fuel trims causing a rich condition. neither has a performance advantage over the other. Keeping the metered air in our intake tract just keeps our ECU happy.

if you do want the sound then something like the Forge Splitter is a good option. it "blows off" a small % of air to create the noise while diverting the rest. if you choose this route, then its best to mechanically bypass your "n249"... this will minimize fuel trim issues.

I know what a BOV/DV does, i simply didnt discribe it like you did, like i said the dv keeps boost(in recirculation into your intake) BOV does not, also I have heard that having it recirculate helps keep your boost levels higher while shifting into another gear, correct me if I am wrong.

s4dc3
08-17-2010, 12:13 PM
Haha i thought the DV and BOV were the same part, shows how much i have to learn. Yall have helped out a bunch. Thanks!

NorCal1.8T
08-17-2010, 12:47 PM
On my IGNORE LIST OFFICIALLY

EErie B6
08-17-2010, 01:01 PM
I know what a BOV/DV does, i simply didnt discribe it like you did, like i said the dv keeps boost(in recirculation into your intake) BOV does not, also I have heard that having it recirculate helps keep your boost levels higher while shifting into another gear, correct me if I am wrong.
dude. at that point its "air" not boost. when you shift, your boost level falls...the "air" that would have been boost remains just "air". try and BS your wordage if you like, but you were wrong.

do you understand what im saying Bob?

Watson
08-17-2010, 01:07 PM
My names not bob, im not being rude to you so please don't be rude to me, thats what I had learned as what it is, now you have told me what it actually is I appreciate it, next time just inform and don't be rude. Im not here looking for e-beef, I am here to learn, thanks for the information. Cheers

Watson
08-17-2010, 01:08 PM
On my IGNORE LIST OFFICIALLY

Are you referring to me?

EErie B6
08-17-2010, 01:10 PM
My names not bob...

its ok, if we are just going to call things what ever we like, then i shall call you "Bob".

cheers!

Dan[FN]6262
08-17-2010, 01:17 PM
what year is it?
how many miles?

it would be smart to get all the service up to date first. that way its at least reliable. otherwise you are likely to be plagued with problems and some of them can be very expensive if not caught in time.


what year is it? 96-99 get one piece headlights
how many miles? if youve never done timing belt DO IT NOW
looks: dont buy wheels if you cant get springs 4x4 is a no no
speed: get some better brake pads and chip it
reliability: do as much PM as you can for 800$


timing belt!! if it has not already been done. thats one thing you cant afford to skip.


[>_<] lol. its probably best if you just stop talking.

***edited for clarity***

I agree with you, EErie. these kids are fucking noobs.

Dan[FN]6262
08-17-2010, 01:18 PM
On my IGNORE LIST OFFICIALLY

you. are. my. hero.

MLFHNTR
08-20-2010, 10:15 PM
what year is it? 96-99 get one piece headlights
how many miles? if youve never done timing belt DO IT NOW
looks: dont buy wheels if you cant get springs 4x4 is a no no
speed: get some better brake pads and chip it
reliability: do as much PM as you can for 800$

These suggestions are quite good and a good place to start....

s4dc3
08-20-2010, 11:28 PM
timing belt kit and 710N valve is in the mail, gettin the exhaust next weekend

stevejones19
08-21-2010, 12:38 AM
This is the best post from you ever... lol

Altech75
08-21-2010, 05:28 AM
On my IGNORE LIST OFFICIALLY

Shiut, didn't know we even had that feature on here.

Edit: Since we're all talking about the DV in such detail I actually have a question to ask. Whenever I let off the throttle after I've been accelerating for a bit it will sputter and jerk a small amount (a definitely noticeable small amount). Also whenever I press down on the pedal in park (neutral) and let off it will drop down to regular idle but then it'll dip down further and sputter some as if it's been choked (again a small amount, but definitely noticeable) no matter how gently, smoothly, and slowly I let off.

Due to an unfortunate fiasco involving bottoming out the car we discovered that the turbo had been running with its wastegate flapper nestled in the cat for quite a few years.

So my question is this. My DV is toast isn't it?

99blueb5
08-21-2010, 01:08 PM
well i just got my laugh for the day reading this thread...what a joke, some imature kids can be quite anoying at times

nunya
08-21-2010, 10:10 PM
BOV's are functional for certain applications. All of the BAT guys run them, myself included......but this is not one of those applications.....Get a DV. Read the FAQ, for god's sake

Just to clarify, not all BAT guys use BOV's. Usually ones with MAP based tuning do, MAF based tunes should not use BOV's.

--dillon (BAT without a BOV :-)

Seerlah
08-21-2010, 11:44 PM
Edit: Since we're all talking about the DV in such detail I actually have a question to ask. Whenever I let off the throttle after I've been accelerating for a bit it will sputter and jerk a small amount (a definitely noticeable small amount). Also whenever I press down on the pedal in park (neutral) and let off it will drop down to regular idle but then it'll dip down further and sputter some as if it's been choked (again a small amount, but definitely noticeable) no matter how gently, smoothly, and slowly I let off.

Due to an unfortunate fiasco involving bottoming out the car we discovered that the turbo had been running with its wastegate flapper nestled in the cat for quite a few years.

So my question is this. My DV is toast isn't it?

Do you have a boost gauge? You should not have been able to hold any boost with an open wastegate. The sputtering you described points to a faulty diverter valve. You could do a pressure test and also take it out for a good look.