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discontained
08-15-2010, 12:18 AM
Well i finally got the money saved up to get on the BT boat. I did plenty of research and spent most my time gathering info on my build now its time to set it in place. I am not building the block yet, so its not going to be a high HP setting yet ;) This is my 1st big project on the car so I am a huge newb so expect alot of questions haha.


So here is what I have:
-T04e turbo / Manifold
*oil lines, bolts etc
-tiAL 38mm Wastegate
-Racetec FMIC
-Catchcan
*2.5 inch piping
-New intake manifold = polished (stock)
-Ultimate Timing belt kit
-3bar FPR
-stainless steel lines for coolant rerouting, oil pickup/drain lines.

Things I still need:
-injectors (not sure which to go with)
-tune (not sure which to go with )
-maf setup.

Here is the car its going on
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/20100805-P1090272.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/IMG_07232copy__tonemapped.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/audi5-1.jpg


Onto the questions. Do i need a maf setup? Since i have a AWM can i do a map setup? What kind of injectors should I shoot for? Since im on the crapmatic trans I know i cant do big power so im going for conservative 300/350 HP which i think is fine for a daily driver, plus I dont have rebuilt block or anything. However that will change later on in the year.

Here are some pics so far.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/IMG_0345.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/IMG_0348.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/IMG_0349.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/20100814-IMG_0356.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/20100814-IMG_0352.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/20100814-IMG_0358.jpg

Thanks for stopping by!

sxman69
08-15-2010, 02:57 AM
coming along nicely!

Seerlah
08-15-2010, 03:58 AM
You will more than likely use 630cc injectors, since you are AWM and will more than likely go with Unitronics or Eurodyne for tuning software. The tunes they offer for our vehicles from anything pushing roughly 300-500chp are written for 630cc injectors (I also would have waited on the fpr till I talked with a tuner). Revo is the only other company I would think someone would go with, and they use 550cc injectors (don't go with them. they are more geared for B6 guys). Also to save on cost and working space, you don't need an intake system with MAF. You can go MAFless and save the hastle.

black99.5a4
08-15-2010, 05:46 AM
I am assuming this is a t3/t4 50 trim setup? Uni's 440 file works pretty good with it, surprisingly. That is what Laser Viking is running, but I am not too sure they still sell it.

IMO, i'd go 630's, Tapp MAFless and MBC to around 15 if you wanna play it safe, 18-19 if you wanna dance with the devil on your rods bending.

That racetec intercooler, isnt going to like u at all on warm/hot days. It heat soaks quick.

Seerlah
08-15-2010, 06:38 AM
440cc tunes are for the AEB/ATW, as far as I know. 630cc tunes are written for the AWM.

black99.5a4
08-15-2010, 06:47 AM
440cc tunes are for the AEB/ATW, as far as I know. 630cc tunes are written for the AWM.

I thought they had an 01 440 tune.. i am not much of a uni follower.. hence why i said i'd 630's and Tapp.. the flow rate of the 50 trim is almost that of a 3076, 630's is where i'll be, but he isnt building his motor, i was trying to throw some "rod saving" things his way. I.e. if he could find a 440 tune, either from tapp or what, and use 440's, that will still haul ass (as laser vikings car does running rich) and be safer on his rods. Tapps 630 file is nice and aggressive, even with boost turned down. IDK how the 19mm rods will react.

discontained
08-15-2010, 07:46 AM
You will more than likely use 630cc injectors, since you are AWM and will more than likely go with Unitronics or Eurodyne for tuning software. The tunes they offer for our vehicles from anything pushing roughly 300-500chp are written for 630cc injectors (I also would have waited on the fpr till I talked with a tuner). Revo is the only other company I would think someone would go with, and they use 550cc injectors (don't go with them. they are more geared for B6 guys). Also to save on cost and working space, you don't need an intake system with MAF. You can go MAFless and save the hastle.

Ok cool a lot of people recommending Uni software might have to go with them. So 630cc to be on the safe side.. Will i have to upgrade my fuel rail or is that compatible. Yay for mafless! Where is a good place to purchase these injectors or does the uni software come with them? I just dont wanna overpay lol. Now what about spark plugs


I am assuming this is a t3/t4 50 trim setup? Uni's 440 file works pretty good with it, surprisingly. That is what Laser Viking is running, but I am not too sure they still sell it.
IMO, i'd go 630's, Tapp MAFless and MBC to around 15 if you wanna play it safe, 18-19 if you wanna dance with the devil on your rods bending.
That racetec intercooler, isnt going to like u at all on warm/hot days. It heat soaks quick.

Yep Garret t3/t04e. Hmm well thats not good about the intercooler. So its between Tapp and Uni i heard great reviews about both companies so its pretty much a coin toss. I was planning on around 12lbs of boost to be safe until I can build the bottom end. Will it be fine for a few months? I might look into a intercooler sprayer if so. Money is a tad tight right now is the only reason why im not going all out. I saw Vikings build thread and is what im pretty much basing mine off of.


thanks for the info guys!

Seerlah
08-15-2010, 08:06 AM
I would first call a tuner and gets things situated. What you want to do is choose a tuner that is close to your residence, to make issue easier to diagnose when they arise. I have CTapp software and wil be using them for my mini-bt kit, as he has a distributer (my tuner) like an hour drive from me. When you talk to your tuner, you will discus you where you are at, your progression, and what your future goals are. They are better to talk to than a bunch of internet people. You will also discus what what route you want to take (if you have not purchased the turbo yet, your tuner will also be very good at choosing the proper turbo to suit your needs) along with what will be needed for your particular application.

I would personally suggest Eurodyne over Unitronics, but I am basing my advice off of opinion. Below are distributer listings of both Unitronics and Eurodyne dealers. Choose from there.

http://www.eurodyne.ca/eurodyne_dealers.php
http://www.unitronic-chipped.com/main/en/dealers/unitronic_dealers.html

EuroDriven
08-15-2010, 08:19 AM
I have Eurodyne and it is tuned for the stock FPR and you can go MAF-less with it IIRC.

black99.5a4
08-15-2010, 09:27 AM
I would go Tapp, their OTS tunes are very good. Every BT software you might have a cold start issue or something here and there that can be worked out with a few emails, especially if you get Measetro ME7. But that is 950. Then again, a unitronics tune is 890 and you have to pay to have tweeks done. Meastro you can get very knowledgeable help in the 1.8t forum on Vortex if you have any issues like cold start, etc.

IMO, a better solution to the IC problem is, getting something like a treadstone core, ebay 2.5 piping and making it work yourself.. It wont fit behind the stock bumper without a lot of cutting (Even the racetec doesnt fit like they say.. Laser Vikings bumper rebar is cut pretty good) And the pipe doesnt fit over the AC lines worth a shit (look for MAD HATTERS post on it a page or 2 back), so either way you go, work is gonna be involved.

and the Treadstone cores have been proven over on Vortex.. 230-240 for a core, 100 on piping from Ebay, pocket the 500 you saved by not buying the racetec setup.

SeekB00st
08-15-2010, 10:39 AM
I laughed when I saw you had the coils labeled.

discontained
08-15-2010, 11:34 AM
I would first call a tuner and gets things situated. What you want to do is choose a tuner that is close to your residence, to make issue easier to diagnose when they arise. I have CTapp software and wil be using them for my mini-bt kit, as he has a distributer (my tuner) like an hour drive from me. When you talk to your tuner, you will discus you where you are at, your progression, and what your future goals are. They are better to talk to than a bunch of internet people. You will also discus what what route you want to take (if you have not purchased the turbo yet, your tuner will also be very good at choosing the proper turbo to suit your needs) along with what will be needed for your particular application.

I would personally suggest Eurodyne over Unitronics, but I am basing my advice off of opinion. Below are distributer listings of both Unitronics and Eurodyne dealers. Choose from there.

http://www.eurodyne.ca/eurodyne_dealers.php
http://www.unitronic-chipped.com/main/en/dealers/unitronic_dealers.html

There are no dealers for either near me, the only thing close to me is APR HQ (20 min away woot). Thanks Seerlah as always your very helpful! +1 for you. Oh i already have the turbo


I would go Tapp, their OTS tunes are very good. Every BT software you might have a cold start issue or something here and there that can be worked out with a few emails, especially if you get Measetro ME7. But that is 950. Then again, a unitronics tune is 890 and you have to pay to have tweeks done. Meastro you can get very knowledgeable help in the 1.8t forum on Vortex if you have any issues like cold start, etc.

IMO, a better solution to the IC problem is, getting something like a treadstone core, ebay 2.5 piping and making it work yourself.. It wont fit behind the stock bumper without a lot of cutting (Even the racetec doesnt fit like they say.. Laser Vikings bumper rebar is cut pretty good) And the pipe doesnt fit over the AC lines worth a shit (look for MAD HATTERS post on it a page or 2 back), so either way you go, work is gonna be involved.

and the Treadstone cores have been proven over on Vortex.. 230-240 for a core, 100 on piping from Ebay, pocket the 500 you saved by not buying the racetec setup.

Ya i had a FMIC before so the 3inch thick core so it should be ok. I already have the Racetec so no money shall be saved lol. is the Tapp tune anything special or are they all about the same


I laughed when I saw you had the coils labeled.
Ok?

black99.5a4
08-15-2010, 11:42 AM
Tapps tunes are known to be more aggressive, you'll get more out of the turbo at any given psi verses uni or apr.. apr being the lowest. uni is all right, but Tapp can put some good numbers down with little effort.

EuroDriven
08-16-2010, 07:58 AM
There are no dealers for either near me, the only thing close to me is APR HQ (20 min away woot).

You don't need a dealer near you, you flash your ECU yourself. Tapp sends you a dongle, and then you load a little piece of software on a laptop, and then flash the file yourself. Very simple and easy. If you get Mastro (which you should if you go Tapp), you can log and fine tune from there as well; no need to go to a shop.

-John

Sales@RAI
08-16-2010, 08:22 AM
I don't know what you mean by "Unitronic is alrite, but Tapp can put down numbers down with little effort". Our Unitronic files have been perfect for the 01s. The AEB cars always have problems. I know plenty of Tapp cars that don't run right, but we always make sure the Unitronic shop cars are running flawlessly before they leave. You can make some awesome power with Unitronic BAT files

Sales@RAI
08-16-2010, 08:26 AM
by the way, ditch the Racetec. We just had a customer in here and his IATs were through the roof with a GTRS and the Racetec

badseed
08-16-2010, 03:25 PM
Clint is the 440cc uni aeb tune still available?

black99.5a4
08-16-2010, 03:34 PM
I don't know what you mean by "Unitronic is alrite, but Tapp can put down numbers down with little effort". Our Unitronic files have been perfect for the 01s. The AEB cars always have problems. I know plenty of Tapp cars that don't run right, but we always make sure the Unitronic shop cars are running flawlessly before they leave. You can make some awesome power with Unitronic BAT files

the cars that you've put tweeks on run okay.... tweek a tapp file and it works okay too... Tapp is know, hands down, to be more aggressive then Uni, period. I know you are a huuuuge uni believer and more power to you. They are above APR that is for sure, but I wouldnt hold them side by side to Tapp at all.. Tweek their start up, idle, cold start.. and let them run.. That is where the complaints are with tapp.. Uni's problems that I have seen on more then 1 car, is running really rich at all times.

Lazer Viking
08-16-2010, 04:05 PM
i regret not putting rods in every damn day.. and the racetec is worthless for anything besides a k03 in the summer

my tune runs rich enough to backfire between shifts, and flood the cylinders with gas if the engine dosent start on the first try. while idling you can smell gas.. but in boost it runs flawlessly

if you want a perfect running car, go maestro, so you can tweak it to how you want it, or pay someone to tweak whatever else you get, for what i paid i am happy with unitronic, but would like to move to tapp if i get the opportunity, or me7 swap my car at some point.. which is unlikely unless someone finds an easy way to do it because if im going to go that far to swap the harness i wouldnt want to have to change it again, and my car may end up with a couple more cylinders.

Seerlah
08-16-2010, 04:21 PM
i regret not putting rods in every damn day.. and the racetec is worthless for anything besides a k03 in the summer



This comment alone makes me want to do rods. But does anyone think it is really necessary on a GT2860RS (19mm wrist pins)?

Pardon the thread jack

black99.5a4
08-16-2010, 04:53 PM
This comment alone makes me want to do rods. But does anyone think it is really necessary on a GT2860RS (19mm wrist pins)?

Pardon the thread jack

What tuning are you using? A friends APR stg 3+ using their 2860 at 22-23psi on APR tuning only put 261/258 to the wheels. I have a buddy who had a 2860 on tapp tuning put over 300 to the wheels before he sold it (took 25+psi to do).

I dont think a 2860 you have much room to worry, especially if you arent running super high boost.

Seerlah
08-16-2010, 05:33 PM
Going to run 630cc Tapp tune on 23 psi max (T3 .63 A/R), on stock rods. As far as I know, it is safe for the stock rods.

black99.5a4
08-16-2010, 05:41 PM
that's going to be the pushing limit of that.. my buddy who put down over 300, i think it was 320-ish..he's on AZ i just dont know his SN, i'll have him chime in. He did it at 25+psi (gauge stops at 25).. your motor, the 19mm wrist pins, would go boom.. It seems the safe spot for those rods, seeing as how the 20mm are a lot stronger, i'd say is the 270-280 tops range. That is just speculation and others have ran a lot more.. but its just a matter of when I think.

Seerlah
08-16-2010, 05:48 PM
I still have a couple months to contemplate my route, so I don't know how things will end up.

discontained
08-20-2010, 03:23 PM
Oohhh i need to read the replies. but ill post this up first

so here is the update, my manifold came in the mail today

I still need a BOV, oil flange for the turbo to the pan to drain :D I got most the good stuff put on, still tring to track down some injectors and figure out what im oding about a tune. my downpipe is backwards :( so i gotta get a new one welded up. Lets see what else. Oh I need to find some oil feed supply, drain lines from somewhere

anywhere pics? :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/20100820-IMG_0400.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/20100820-IMG_0401.jpg

this was written with a uber guinness buzzz :}

black99.5a4
08-20-2010, 03:34 PM
aahh, you're running the ebay tubular manifold.. keep an update for that one. IDK anyone that has ran it, only the atp clones.

discontained
08-20-2010, 03:40 PM
ya it looks like A POS but i going to get a different one soon as i get some money back in tha flow

Seerlah
08-20-2010, 03:45 PM
You need to keep your eyes on the classifieds. That is where I got my injectors from, along with some other goodies, for a good price. Jeff (PSi Concepts) is selling one of his used manifolds for $150. I would jump on that before it's too late.

discontained
08-20-2010, 05:06 PM
Hmm ill check it out.

About the oil lines, do you order them or custom make them? I need one that goes from the oil cooler to the turbo, and the turbo to the pan.

grillhands
08-20-2010, 06:30 PM
Going to run 630cc Tapp tune on 23 psi max (T3 .63 A/R), on stock rods. As far as I know, it is safe for the stock rods.


Im pretty sure a straight t3 is only good for about 310chp. I have to run around 23psi just to see 330chp on my t3/to4e 46 trim. If you look at 034motorsport website, they have a t3/to4e 45 trim with max hp potential at 350chp octane dependent.

grillhands
08-20-2010, 06:31 PM
Hmm ill check it out.

About the oil lines, do you order them or custom make them? I need one that goes from the oil cooler to the turbo, and the turbo to the pan.

Go on atptuning and it will have everything you need. I have the adapter for the oil pan if you want it.

discontained
08-20-2010, 06:40 PM
thanks grillhands, ill go there now. How much line did you use for your oil supply? and how much do you want for the adapter?

grillhands
08-20-2010, 06:48 PM
I think i used a 3ft 4an line with a .035 oil restrictor. I forgot how much i paid lol but i'll take much less than what its going on the website. Its aptuning. This is what you need for the oil feed into your oil filter housing. http://www.aptuning.net/SearchResults.asp?Search=1.8t+oil+feed

black99.5a4
08-20-2010, 06:51 PM
i think you meant ATPTurbo.com

but you can also order stuff from APTuning.net

discontained
08-20-2010, 06:55 PM
ok i shot you a PM

discontained
08-21-2010, 06:25 AM
Ok so im sober now. The header is from ebay but I dont think its the cheap crappy one lol. I mean ya it was only $175 but it comes with a 1 yr warranty from the seller. We shall see how it holds up. If it cracks, breaks, blows out ill just go with a ATP, PSI, or similar cast mani. I said it looked like crap yesterday but in honesty it looks pretty good, the metal is thicker then normal, and the welds are pretty nice. Only time will tell. The only thing I see problematic is the mount location, it puts the turbo within 1/2 inch from the front frame rail. So i gotta fab up some more road-sign heat shields i mean custom heat shield ;)

I just ordered a T4 Drain flange for the turbo. My build budget is getting kinda low so what 38mm waste-gate do you recommend? Also what do I do about my MAP sensor?

black99.5a4
08-21-2010, 06:37 AM
you need to buy a map sensor bung and have it welded into your IC pipe (so that means if you have SS, get a SS adapter, if you have alum, get an alum one as SS and alum can not be welded together).

If you get a cast log, get the ebay atp clone. its been proven. I havent heard any good nor bad about the manifold you have, i just dont like the wastegate location "brace" that part looks out of place to me, or weird.. its also made by OBX, that would be the only real "watch it over time"... but def report back on the manifold.

discontained
08-28-2010, 09:50 PM
OK time for update

Went ahead and got unitroincs 630cc BT software, RC Engineering 650cc injectors, NGK BKR7E plugs, tial 38mm wastegate. Everything is hooked up and running ok. I still need to replace one o2 sensor as its was coming up as faulty.

Installed everything made a heat sheild for the frame/motor mount so it doesnt get burnt up.

it starts and runs, however I cant access my ECU due to my faulty abs module. I unplugged it and still cant read the ECU so i gotta get that sent off to k0mpressed and fixed this week.

I decided to take it for a spin around the block and had a coolant hose blow off the nipple so I fixed it and tried the test drive again, the Trans cooler lines are leaking ATF fluid out of the connections. Is there a way to bypass those lines? and run a different aftermarket transmission oil cooler? Ill have to do a flush and fill on my trans oh joy.

i didnt really get a chance to build any kind of boost as I just wanted to see how everything was meshing together. Sounds wayyyy different then stock. So right now im either looking to replace the OEM trans cooler, or jb weld those connections in the radiator end tanks.

Im also thinking about getting some rods, and other bottom end stuff but that will come later in the following months. I didnt get much done since my friend stopped by and we knocked out his underdrive pulley on his tC which was a PITA.. damn fwd cars.

Thats the jist of it, gotta get a better video of the car and upload it along with some new pics. if its not raining tomorrow ill take a few pics but i have to wait till i figure out my trans prob for a video first.

Seerlah
08-28-2010, 10:53 PM
The CX Racing mani will crack................it's just a matter of when. I am not posotive but I think Treadstone happens to be the ATP clone, but I would like to be corrected if possible.

discontained
08-28-2010, 11:05 PM
if it cracks then it cracks, im not worried about it as much as the trans connections/cooler problems. Transmission > Manifold haha. Im on the look out for a used one I dont plan on really beating on the car that much until i actually get into the bottom end of the car.

its not a CX racing mani though, as the CX one doesnt have the WG flange "brace" . Its actually a OBX.

http://www.tuningdepot.com/ebay/images/TH11474.JPG

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/IMG_0396.jpg

T0mat3
08-29-2010, 09:06 AM
Im actually pretty much at the same point as you right now, only have the intake and exhaust left to do. I was thinking a 3" inch Cobra head, making a 180 bend in some tubing and welding bongs there so I could put my DV and all the rest of the stuff that goes on the intake then coming back up with a 90 deg angle, sticking my maf and a cone filter on the end of that.. Whats your plan for the intake?

4bagels
08-29-2010, 09:45 AM
If you can't read your ecu, one known issue is that some aftermarket radios will short the obd2 line, which causes that problem. You can try unplugging it if it's not the original radio.

discontained
08-29-2010, 10:12 AM
Im actually pretty much at the same point as you right now, only have the intake and exhaust left to do. I was thinking a 3" inch Cobra head, making a 180 bend in some tubing and welding bongs there so I could put my DV and all the rest of the stuff that goes on the intake then coming back up with a 90 deg angle, sticking my maf and a cone filter on the end of that.. Whats your plan for the intake?

Not sure on the intake as the turbo is right up near the headlight in wich i would have to use a *90 degree bend and run it downwards then in the bumper or something. Right now im just running mesh over it, I am also MAFless. Exhaust is going tube be straight piped for a few weeks since it sounds pretty amazing as the exhaust is now. I got a custom downpipe made without the o2 bungs in it for $60 locally, since i have access to a Lincoln Electric MIG welder I was gonna knock out the rest of the exhaust myself.


If you can't read your ecu, one known issue is that some aftermarket radios will short the obd2 line, which causes that problem. You can try unplugging it if it's not the original radio.

Stock radio/headunit, only thing was added was amp/subs into the factory wiring. But it worked when i installed that. My ABS light was steady on / Brake light flashing.

Seerlah
08-29-2010, 10:53 AM
Dare I say it, that's a pretty neat looking maniifold.

discontained
08-29-2010, 02:19 PM
i know its not the best out there but its doing it job so far, i will keep update on it. So far 35 miles on the car and everything is holding up

20vpower
08-29-2010, 02:51 PM
does the radio work? if the radio doesnt work then the fuse in the back might be blown. i had problems connecting to my ecu when my radio fuse was blown.

discontained
08-29-2010, 02:55 PM
ya radio works 100%

discontained
08-29-2010, 06:23 PM
Ok im thinking about getting rods and all that right now. Where should I shop for? I have the 06A block so what do I need?

Lazer Viking
08-29-2010, 06:33 PM
IE is the cheapest

discontained
08-29-2010, 06:35 PM
IE is the cheapest

is that what you would go with? I dont know what specs I would need to shoot for as I dont wanna get the wrong ones haha. ill run a search on IE.

geeky
08-29-2010, 07:04 PM
what turbo is that? is that an ebay mani/turbo setup?

discontained
08-29-2010, 07:09 PM
what turbo is that? is that an ebay mani/turbo setup?

The manifold is, the turbo is not. Its a Garret T04E .50 trim i picked up off a friend

Seerlah
08-29-2010, 08:36 PM
is that what you would go with? I dont know what specs I would need to shoot for as I dont wanna get the wrong ones haha. ill run a search on IE.

There really aren't any real specs, just correct size. You would want 144x19mm rods (144x20mm if you had an 058). And as mentioned above, Integrated Engineering would be the cheapest route. Only other thing you would need are rod bearings, and you are good to go (head gasket will also need replacement, as whoever will do the swap will more than likely just pop the piston/rod out from the top of the short block). Shops charge around the $1000 mark if you want them to swap them in for you. Also, look into Brute rods. They cost a little more (not by much), but have forced oiling like the Pauter rods. I tried to find the thread on them, but came up empty.

discontained
08-29-2010, 09:53 PM
cool, thanks for that Seerlah, ill look into that. As with everything i will be doing the work myself. I plan on pulling the engine in a few months anyway so ill just do it then. Also, I will see what I can dig up in the search. I just wanted to make sure the 19mm was the number, I was looking for it and you have saved me searching :)

Will keep this updated, I have to flush/fill my trans tomorrow or tuesday.

nunya
08-29-2010, 10:19 PM
There really aren't any real specs, just correct size. You would want 144x19mm rods (144x20mm if you had an 05A). And as mentioned above, Integrated Engineering would be the cheapest route. Only other thing you would need are rod bearings, and you are good to go (head gasket will also need replacement, as whoever will do the swap will more than likely just pop the piston/rod out from the top of the short block). Shops charge around the $1000 mark if you want them to swap them in for you. Also, look into Brute rods. They cost a little more (not by much), but have forced oiling like the Pauter rods. I tried to find the thread on them, but came up empty.

Hey Seerlah,

Good info, small correction. 058 uses 20mm wrist pins, not 05A, not sure if thats even an VAG motor.

--dillon

DrunkTylerr
08-30-2010, 01:21 AM
I like the car a lot, and I love the 50trim, I had one on my old racecar until I bumped upto a 60trim. Sounded beast straightpiped.(By that, I mean straight 3" off the turbo back with flexpipe)

Seerlah
08-30-2010, 04:59 AM
Hey Seerlah,

Good info, small correction. 058 uses 20mm wrist pins, not 05A, not sure if thats even an VAG motor.

--dillon

Thanks for the correction.

SleeperAvant
08-30-2010, 12:40 PM
Another 50 trim automatic here, been running it between 16-18psi since March 2010 and no issues.

Dan[FN]6262
08-30-2010, 08:02 PM
you can get the IE rods rifled drilled for an extra 100 bucks.

discontained
08-31-2010, 09:03 AM
I have no idea what that is Dan, lol.

Side note: switching from G-052-162-A2 ATF from Audi/VW to royal purple max atf today. Flush & fill time.

And here are some pics of the install, the coil pack cover isnt done and I have to get some more exhaust wrap to finish the oil line and I need a dump pipe :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/20100830-IMG_0781.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/20100830-IMG_0784.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/20100830-IMG_0786.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/20100830-IMG_0791.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/20100830-IMG_0798.jpg

Dan[FN]6262
08-31-2010, 10:15 AM
is that your OEM oil feed line?

Dan[FN]6262
08-31-2010, 10:19 AM
I have no idea what that is Dan, lol.


"Forced Oiling" or whatever the hell Seerlah was calling it. If your rods are Rifle Drilled, it allows oil to run thru the rod to lubricate the wrist pin. Look at SpeedingG60's build thread on the last or next to last page, he has a pic of them.

viceprp
08-31-2010, 04:26 PM
I was looking at the treadstone intercoolers and it looks like the thinnest core is 3". Besides hacking up the bumper or upgrading to an S4 bumper; What other cores can fit behind the stock bumper but be efficient enough to support BT applications? Seems racetec and most ebay setups won't do the job.

Seerlah
08-31-2010, 04:55 PM
Found the thread with an explanation.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/302298-Forced-pin-oiling-(EDM)-rods-now-more-affordable-than-ever!?highlight=Brute+Rods


I was looking at the treadstone intercoolers and it looks like the thinnest core is 3". Besides hacking up the bumper or upgrading to an S4 bumper; What other cores can fit behind the stock bumper but be efficient enough to support BT applications? Seems racetec and most ebay setups won't do the job.

I'm in the same predicament and the Kinetics unit ended up with the best result for fitment without compromising performance. There will be major cutting invoved, but looks good when done. I was looking for like the last 2 months for an intercooler that will fit behind the stock bumper without causing heatsoak and crazy IATs. Even the Racetec fails in this dept on hot summer days (ie today was roughly 95* where I live). But after searching and searching, I came upon some good news. Racetec is currently in the process of making a 2.5" core for the B5 A4. I also talked to Mike Hood (still keep in touch via email) and he was saying how he always wanted to have an intercooler made for the B5 A4 to accomodate the stock bumper. He had the core in mind, which was Garrett 2.3" thick and 22" in length. There were 2 different heights for different flow rates (hp ratings) which were 10.3" (for 530hp) and 12" (for 600hp). I am going to wait on this intercooler and purchase it from Mike Hood (has someone who said he will make it for him). The one I want has a core rated for 530hp, which was the only core he metnioed. But I am sure this other core (600hp core) will get thrown in the picture somehow. Oh yeah, the Tyrol Sport SMIC can be custom made with 2.5" inlets/outlets for an extra $100. It would really be cool to have that intercooler setup, but would be kind of pricey when piping gets involved. Not to mention you would want the S4 fender liner and want to fab up a better shroud.

For referance, here is the Kinetics intercooler behind the stock bumper.
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee147/seerlah/kineticcore.jpg

Here is the email response they gave me when I inquired about their intercooler kit.

Hello Mitch,

1) Core 25" x 8" x 2.75", Overall width 36"
2) Inlet/Outlet 2.5"
3) The core is rated for 450hp. This is the same core that we use in our 1.8T and 2.0L kits.

You will have to cut the bumper rebar and trim the bumper cover to fit the intercooler. I have attached a picture of what it looks like installed.

Thanks.

And pardon if I brought the thread off topic, but I don't think I did[cool]

discontained
08-31-2010, 09:38 PM
I had to hack the hell out of my bumper & support but it fits pretty ok. Im pleased, havent done logs or anything to that matter. I had to ditch the fogs but they was cracked anyway xD

oh by all means post whatever you want in the thread as I dont mind if it helps someone out related to the topic or not.

EErie B6
08-31-2010, 10:07 PM
wow. that Kinetic FMIC is a pretty decent size @ 550ci. if Seerlah's numbers are correct.

just for reference...
RaceTec = 360ci.
ER Comp = 660ci.

Dan[FN]6262
09-01-2010, 06:08 AM
Here is a pic of my car with my Treadstone TR10 FMIC [:)]

http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt349/zmadman210/P29134856.jpg?t=1283177549

discontained
09-01-2010, 11:11 AM
nice, How much support you had to trim?

Also, my OEM transmission cooler is being bitchy and wont stop leaking, I replaced the o-rings and thought it fixed it, filled my fluids up, went out and halfway home it started leaking again from the same spot. So im going to run a aftermarket transmission cooler and just get rid of that problem. Anyone have one they would recommend or would the cheapo 45 dollar one from autozone work? Ill just tap into the lines and do it that way.

SleeperAvant
09-01-2010, 11:16 AM
nice, How much support you had to trim?

Also, my OEM transmission cooler is being bitchy and wont stop leaking, I replaced the o-rings and thought it fixed it, filled my fluids up, went out and halfway home it started leaking again from the same spot. So im going to run a aftermarket transmission cooler and just get rid of that problem. Anyone have one they would recommend or would the cheapo 45 dollar one from autozone work? Ill just tap into the lines and do it that way.

FWIW, see below:


Controlling transmission fluid temp is directly linked to extended transmission life. I can not provide any data as to the control of fluid temp in the Audi's as I have never seen a study. The transmission does have a temp sensor installed and monitored by the transmission control module. The max temp set point in the module is predetermined and should set the check light if exceeded. If you are driving aggressively or continuously in stop and go traffic transmission temp may become a problem. The addition of a cooler placed in series with the radiator could help with this. I normally suggest installing before the radiator to prevent over cooling and allow the radiator to heat the oil if temperature drops to low. Low transmission fluid temp can be as damaging as high temp as condensate will form in the transmission in cooler weather and the oil must be brought to operating temp to cook off the moisture. Moisture remaining will cause the oil to emulsify causing rapid wear and rust. One concern on the ZF transmission is the cooler will flow in both directions depending on oil routing of the valve body. Do not install any cooler with a check valve limiting direction.

Dan[FN]6262
09-01-2010, 11:21 AM
nice, How much support you had to trim?


support as in the rebar? its not there. FMIC > rebar

discontained
09-01-2010, 11:27 AM
5857;5632874']support as in the rebar? its not there. FMIC > rebar

i see that haha. i was just wondering if you had modified the rebar in the bumper. I did it was a pain in the ass but the saw-zaw with a Bi-Metal blade ate thru it like butta!

discontained
09-01-2010, 11:35 AM
FWIW, see below:

Well i been trying to search for new lines but after 30 min on google and whatnot I havent found a single one, nor do I know the part #. The lines that come off the transmission to the cooler are pretty worn out and im sure that a OEM replacement line will cost 100+. So by that post its not a good idea to completely eliminate the cooler/heater in the rad.

I dont know what to do now. DAMN AUTOMATICS never never never will I ever own another one.

Dan[FN]6262
09-01-2010, 11:40 AM
5857;5632874']support as in the rebar? its not there. FMIC > rebar


i see that haha. i was just wondering if you had modified the rebar in the bumper. I did it was a pain in the ass but the saw-zaw with a Bi-Metal blade ate thru it like butta!

its not there as in I took it out of the bumper cover [;)]

flynnr
09-01-2010, 11:41 AM
5857;5631696']Here is a pic of my car with my Treadstone TR10 FMIC [:)]

http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt349/zmadman210/P29134856.jpg?t=1283177549


audizine has a b6a4 forum ya know

Dan[FN]6262
09-01-2010, 11:44 AM
I dont know what to do now. DAMN AUTOMATICS never never never will I ever own another one.

I love my automatic truck. just hit the accelerator and go. its a work unit, not a play unit.

Dan[FN]6262
09-01-2010, 11:45 AM
audizine has a b6a4 forum ya know

I posted the picture to reference the size of the TR10 FMIC, ya know.


Whenever Mike wants me to GTFO of his thread, I will gladly comply.

SleeperAvant
09-01-2010, 11:52 AM
Well i been trying to search for new lines but after 30 min on google and whatnot I havent found a single one, nor do I know the part #. The lines that come off the transmission to the cooler are pretty worn out and im sure that a OEM replacement line will cost 100+. So by that post its not a good idea to completely eliminate the cooler/heater in the rad.

I dont know what to do now. DAMN AUTOMATICS never never never will I ever own another one.

Yeah look at the Hayden unit #677...been pondering that...and this (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-13011/) for the thermostatic bypass. ZF said any trans cooler lines should fit as they slide over and you can just use clamps to secure them on. Not sure on the OEM line diameter however, haven't got a chance to measure it.


audizine has a b6a4 forum ya know

lol wut?

flynnr
09-01-2010, 12:04 PM
5857;5632962']I posted the picture to reference the size of the TR10 FMIC, ya know.


Whenever Mike wants me to GTFO of his thread, I will gladly comply.


i sense a little hostility. some people get mixed up and post in the wrong section. just looked at your garage and noticed no b5's just thought id steer you in the right direction

SleeperAvant
09-01-2010, 12:18 PM
i sense a little hostility. some people get mixed up and post in the wrong section. just looked at your garage and noticed no b5's just thought id steer you in the right direction

Damn, you're the only one hostile here lol. All we're doing is giving discontained more info as per his intercooler / turbo / transmission setups.

Dan[FN]6262
09-01-2010, 12:37 PM
Its alright Steve, no need to explain. If he read the posts, our intentions would've been very clear. He must be "that guy."

If you would've looked up approximately a quarter inch, you also would've seen that I joined 10 days before you, so it should be apparent that I know my way around the forum.

SeekB00st
09-01-2010, 12:47 PM
If you can't read your ecu, one known issue is that some aftermarket radios will short the obd2 line, which causes that problem. You can try unplugging it if it's not the original radio.

Had a similar problem.
Ended up just being the ECU - go figure.

Seerlah
09-01-2010, 02:08 PM
B5s and B6s have almost idential engines. I always venture to the B6 section, but only post every now and then. I even ask questions in the B6 section when I am more than sure I will get more feedback over there than over here. Basically, let's keep this thread clean guys[cool].

flynnr
09-01-2010, 02:11 PM
B5s and B6s have almost idential engines. I always venture to the B6 section, but only post every now and then. I even ask questions in the B6 section when I am more than sure I will get more feedback over there than over here. Basically, let's keep this thread clean guys[cool].

yeah sorry about that. just honestly thought he clicked the wrong section. i didnt mean anything rude by it - i have seen b7 and b8 people post here even and then realise they werent in their forum. wasnt intending to be "that guy" and if you knew me you would know i am very laid back - just tryin to help, broski

grillhands
09-01-2010, 02:26 PM
Sorry if i'm thread jacking but i've seen a lot of people talking about only running low boost on there BT setup because they are worried about rods. I thought that 10psi on a ko3 is the same as 10psi on a 50trim except with the variable of the charged air being cooler because it takes less effort to make 10psi on a 50 trim. I've seen on this post that 15 psi is safe and 18-19 psi is playing on the edge. However, if you look at any compressor map and use the formula found on Garrett's website, 18-19psi will only get you 300chp because of our small displacemnt. This 50trim on a 5.0 at around 5psi would get you around 300-350chp. A 50 trim i believe flows 47lb/min and is good for 460-480chp. In order to get anywhere near that you have to be running close to 33psi+ on your 50 trim.

flynnr
09-01-2010, 02:34 PM
psi is all relative - think if you have a straw and blow air through it AS HARD AS YOU CAN - say thats 10 psi. now take a garden hose and blow through that as hard as you can - you are still blowing at your max, but you can tell that you can definately fit more air through it. this concecpt is similar because a k03 rated at 20 psi feels like a walk in the park compared to my gt2860rs at the same psi

Dan[FN]6262
09-01-2010, 02:40 PM
Sorry if i'm thread jacking but i've seen a lot of people talking about only running low boost on there BT setup because they are worried about rods. I thought that 10psi on a ko3 is the same as 10psi on a 50trim except with the variable of the charged air being cooler because it takes less effort to make 10psi on a 50 trim. I've seen on this post that 15 psi is safe and 18-19 psi is playing on the edge. However, if you look at any compressor map and use the formula found on Garrett's website, 18-19psi will only get you 300chp because of our small displacemnt. This 50trim on a 5.0 at around 5psi would get you around 300-350chp. A 50 trim i believe flows 47lb/min and is good for 460-480chp. In order to get anywhere near that you have to be running close to 33psi+ on your 50 trim.


psi is all relative - think if you have a straw and blow air through it AS HARD AS YOU CAN - say thats 10 psi. now take a garden hose and blow through that as hard as you can - you are still blowing at your max, but you can tell that you can definately fit more air through it. this concecpt is similar because a k03 rated at 20 psi feels like a walk in the park compared to my gt2860rs at the same psi

exactly.




larger turbos are more efficient, and flow more volume. its not about PSI, its about volume. a 50trim at 10psi flows way more than a K03 at 10psi, so the 50 trim obviously makes more power.

Seerlah
09-01-2010, 02:41 PM
10psi on a 50 trim is not the same as 10psi on the k03. You figure 10 pounds of pressure per square inch (going by your number). Now increase the volume of space to hold that pressure. 10psi in the compressor housing of a k03 is no comparison to 10psi in the compressor housing of a 50trim. And 15psi is safe for our stock block. For example, you may be able to push 18-20psi and be "that guy" to not throw a rod. Or you could simply be safe and stay at 15 psi. For example, I plan on running a GT2860RS. I could run the GT2871R, but I would rather play it safe. I guess there's the limit of playing it safe, testing the waters, and going all out even though you know the consequences.

grillhands
09-01-2010, 02:57 PM
You guys are all forgetting one thing. Our 1.8 engines have a displacement of 109 cubic inches. There is only so much volume that the engine can handle. Our intake manifold sees 10psi no matter if its from a ko3 or a 50 trim. Now the question is which one is heavier? A ton of bricks or a ton of feathers? It's the same weight where as you need more feathers to match the bricks. In comparison, the ko3 has to work harder to match the 50trim but it's still all the same. Im not saying not to be safe but 15psi on the gt28rs is the same as a gt2871r just with a difference in charge temp.

grillhands
09-01-2010, 03:08 PM
Its only at 10 psi because of restriction. Think of it as an hour glass. The sand could be a few grams or a few lbs but it can only move as fast as the little funnel will allow it. That our engines, the little funnel that can only store and mover a certain amount of air. Whether its a ko3 or a 50 trim behind it.

grillhands
09-01-2010, 03:09 PM
10psi on a 50 trim is not the same as 10psi on the k03. You figure 10 pounds of pressure per square inch (going by your number). Now increase the volume of space to hold that pressure. 10psi in the compressor housing of a k03 is no comparison to 10psi in the compressor housing of a 50trim. And 15psi is safe for our stock block. For example, you may be able to push 18-20psi and be "that guy" to not throw a rod. Or you could simply be safe and stay at 15 psi. For example, I plan on running a GT2860RS. I could run the GT2871R, but I would rather play it safe. I guess there's the limit of playing it safe, testing the waters, and going all out even though you know the consequences.

The thing is we are not increasing the volume of space that holds that pressure unless we do a 2.0 build.

Dan[FN]6262
09-01-2010, 03:53 PM
yeah, thats exactly why a K03 car on 10psi is just as fast a 50 trim car on 10psi. [rolleyes]

grillhands
09-01-2010, 04:10 PM
Nope, probably faster because the ko3 is in it's effieceny range throughout the entire rpm range while a 50 trim will surge in the low rpms on our 1.8t. If it was a 5.0 a ko3 wont push enough air for 10psi and a 50 trim can handle 10psi all the way to their 5k redline. This is about our 1.8t so i can be fairly certain that a ko3 at 10psi on 1.8t can beat my car if i keep my boost at 10psi. So how about a gt35? Will that be faster than k03 on a 1.8t at 10psi? Nope. The ko3 will have and can handle 10psi all the way to redline while the gt35 will maybe see 10psi at 4800rpm. Everyone just sees boost and the cfm a turbo can push out at it "efficiency range"but what is it being pushed into? We are talking about 109cubic inches here! We need to run higher boost compared to other car because our displacement is limited. Take a look at any compressor map at the left side at the pressure ratio. You have to calculate the 14.7 for atmospheric pressure plus the 10psi you want to run or what ever you want to run then divide it by 14.7. That gives a pr of 1.68 or lets make it fun and say 18psi that make the pr 2.22. If you do the simple but i really dont'recommend the estimate of 1psi equals 10hp move to the right until you hit 35lb/min on the compresser chart. That will most likely give you the 350chp. I got a little of topic but just to hit close to 350chp you have to run around 18psi and thats in perfect conditions. I can almost guarantee that 18psi still wont be enough to hit 350chp on a 50 trim. With the 25% drivetrain loss you are looking at 263awhp.

Seerlah
09-01-2010, 04:12 PM
I am no expert, but the engine isn't built to hold air. It's meant to burn it along with fuel in combustion to create power. As long as you set things up properly, your engine can burn the fuel/air just as fast as it can get it out (exhaust system). Upping displacement is meant to bring in more air through your intake (in our case, the turbocharger compressor housing). Add more fuel to compensate for that added air, and you are creating more power.

As long as your engine can handle the power the combustion of the air and fuel will create, you are fine. Once it gets flowing, it gets flowing. But our vehicles are limited to roughly 8.5k rpm on a built head. The displacement of our vehicles does not permit a turbo charger of certain size to spool as one would like, as opposed to one on a different vehicle of larger displacement. But once it gets going, you will be constantly bringing in more air, adding more fuel to compensate, burning it, creating power out of it, having those exhaust burnt air and fuel mixtures (exhaust gasses) spin the turbine, in turn spinning the compressor blade, bringing in even more air, tuning adding even more fuel, be able to burn more fuel and air to turn it into energy, and the cycle continues till you your cylinder head reaches its limits (time to shift). With this action being taken place, pushing 10psi of air through a k03 is no way comparable to that of a 50 trim. The 50 trim will flow more volume of air than the k03 is even capable of. That's why 10psi in a k03 will not be the same as pushing 10psi in a 50 trim. Volume.

Anyways, that's is what I learned and am no expert. So, anybody is more than welcome to correct me if I am wrong.

Dan[FN]6262
09-01-2010, 04:33 PM
Wow..... just wow....... Do you guys seriously not understand how a turbocharged gasoline engine works?

black99.5a4
09-01-2010, 04:33 PM
Nope, probably faster because the ko3 is in it's effieceny range throughout the entire rpm range while a 50 trim will surge in the low rpms on our 1.8t. If it was a 5.0 a ko3 wont push enough air for 10psi and a 50 trim can handle 10psi all the way to their 5k redline. This is about our 1.8t so i can be fairly certain that a ko3 at 10psi on 1.8t can beat my car if i keep my boost at 10psi.

that isnt true.

my mk3 VR pulls very hard from my buddies chipped a4, when he went 50 trim and was only running 10 psi, he could put acouple lengths on me. So if I pull hard from 18-20psi on a chipped KO3 and get pulled on by 10psi of 50 trim .63 a/r.. then 10psi ko3 wouldnt stand a chance in hell.....

Seerlah
09-01-2010, 04:44 PM
5857;5633991']Wow..... just wow....... Do you guys seriously not understand how a turbocharged gasoline engine works?

Was that directed towards me? If so, where was I incorrect? I don't know how it is in the B6 section, but we over here teach ourselves (from others, our own mistakes, our own triumphs, etc).

Dan[FN]6262
09-01-2010, 04:57 PM
Was that directed towards me? If so, where was I incorrect? I don't know how it is in the B6 section, but we over here teach ourselves (from others, our own mistakes, our own triumphs, etc).

I didn't read everything that you wrote, but you seem to have a good idea. and I taught myself everything that I know about my car, and its engine. Everything is accessible thru the internet. All the information is out there. Use specific google searches and don't believe everything that someone tells you, research it.

I built my entire engine/car by myself, in my grandfathers barn. I had some good friends that were willing to help (like when I was pulling the engine and putting it back in) but I did all of the work myself. I got the tools, I read everything I could, I asked numerous people that build engines for a living and got advice on what to do. The best thing to do is just read and watch. Ask, don't assume. Then research the answers you're given. Double check everything.

I know so much more now, then I did when I bought my car 2 years ago. I'm very glad that I decided to do it all myself, I wouldn't trade the knowledge I have now for all the money I would've spent to pay a shop to do all this work for me. I also have a great sense of accomplishment because of what I've done. Whenever people ask "who did your work?" its a great feeling to be able to say "I did it [:D]" and you can actually explain to them what you did. You can even tell them the gaps on the rings, and everything.

If you, or anyone else, ever has a question, feel free to shoot me a PM. I'll answer it to the best of my ability

grillhands
09-01-2010, 05:10 PM
5857;5634069']I didn't read everything that you read, but you seem to have a good idea. and I taught myself everything that I know about my car, and its engine. Everything is accessible thru the internet. All the information is out there. Use specific google searches and don't believe everything that someone tells you, research it.

I built my entire engine/car by myself, in my grandfathers barn. I had some good friends that were willing to help (like when I was pulling the engine and putting it back in) but I did all of the work myself. I got the tools, I read everything I could, I asked numerous people that build engines for a living and got advice on what to do. The best thing to do is just read and watch. Ask, don't assume. Then research the answers you're given. Double check everything.

I know so much more now, then I did when I bought my car 2 years ago. I'm very glad that I decided to do it all myself, I wouldn't trade the knowledge I have now for all the money I would've spent to pay a shop to do all this work for me. I also have a great sense of accomplishment because of what I've done. Whenever people ask "who did your work?" its a great feeling to be able to say "I did it [:D]" and you can actually explain to them what you did. You can even tell them the gaps on the rings, and everything.

If you, or anyone else, ever has a question, feel free to shoot me a PM. I'll answer it to the best of my ability

By no means am i doubting your knowledge about gasoline engines or turbos. I'm not questioning anybodys mechanical ability either. With that said, what is the point of the pressure ratio on the compressor map? Every map uses the same increments for the PR and its only calculated by boost+14.7/14.7, so no matter what turbo in on the car the PR will always be the same. Again im just asking questions and i'm not trying to convince anyone but if i'm wrong i would like to know why.

grillhands
09-01-2010, 05:13 PM
that isnt true.

my mk3 VR pulls very hard from my buddies chipped a4, when he went 50 trim and was only running 10 psi, he could put acouple lengths on me. So if I pull hard from 18-20psi on a chipped KO3 and get pulled on by 10psi of 50 trim .63 a/r.. then 10psi ko3 wouldnt stand a chance in hell.....

a ko3 is generating too much heat and is losing hp because of that. Also a ko3 at 18-20psi is well out of its range while a 50 trim can hold 10psi till redline and not generate anywhere near as much heat as the ko3. It also depends on the turbine ar as well.

Dan[FN]6262
09-01-2010, 05:16 PM
By no means am i doubting your knowledge about gasoline engines or turbos. I'm not questioning anybodys mechanical ability either. With that said, what is the point of the pressure ratio on the compressor map? Every map uses the same increments for the PR and its only calculated by boost+14.7/14.7, so no matter what turbo in on the car the PR will always be the same. Again im just asking questions and i'm not trying to convince anyone but if i'm wrong i would like to know why.

Tomorrow morning, I'll send you a link (or post it on here) that does an excellent job explaining how to accurately read compressor maps, and understand exactly what it is that you're looking at.

The reason that I can't right now, is because I have it saved to favorites on my work computer, and I can't remember the url lol.

grillhands
09-01-2010, 06:21 PM
5857;5634138']Tomorrow morning, I'll send you a link (or post it on here) that does an excellent job explaining how to accurately read compressor maps, and understand exactly what it is that you're looking at.

The reason that I can't right now, is because I have it saved to favorites on my work computer, and I can't remember the url lol.

Cool man, thanks.

discontained
09-01-2010, 06:48 PM
So i pretty much wasted my money upgrading my turbo [=(]

Seerlah
09-01-2010, 06:51 PM
Really[>_>]?

discontained
09-01-2010, 06:57 PM
I was joking haha. I put the [=(] face instead of the [>_<] face..


[>_<]

discontained
09-01-2010, 06:59 PM
back on topic here.... i got some O2 bungs today for my sensors, whats the best position to mount them? Anyone know?

Dan[FN]6262
09-01-2010, 08:01 PM
Primary O2 should be as close to the turbo as possible, second O2 can be down stream anywhere.

discontained
09-01-2010, 08:26 PM
Cool thanks, also does it matter which way its mounted. like 12 o'clock or 3 o'clock or no?

A4Rob
09-01-2010, 09:11 PM
The thing is we are not increasing the volume of space that holds that pressure unless we do a 2.0 build.

Umm not true at all. Do some research. Plenty of people are making big power on the 1.8 without going 2.0. Myself being one of them.

Dan[FN]6262
09-02-2010, 05:30 AM
Cool thanks, also does it matter which way its mounted. like 12 o'clock or 3 o'clock or no?

nope

Dan[FN]6262
09-02-2010, 05:31 AM
Cool man, thanks.

I forgot that I deleted it from the favorites [headbang]

I'll search for it real quick

Dan[FN]6262
09-02-2010, 05:42 AM
Here's a couple good ones.


http://hondaswap.com/forced-induction/compressor-map-reading-dummies-129194/

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=258035

http://www.automotivearticles.com/Turbo_Selection.shtml

grillhands
09-02-2010, 07:55 AM
Umm not true at all. Do some research. Plenty of people are making big power on the 1.8 without going 2.0. Myself being one of them.
I've seen a few people making tons of power on a 1.8t. I'm not doubting that at all. I'm just saying you will need to run less boost on any particular turbo on a 2.0 compared to a 1.8t to rach the same hp goal.

grillhands
09-02-2010, 08:04 AM
www.lovehorsepower.com/MR2_Docs/compressor_flow_maps.htm
Also, on Garrett's website on the tech 3 article on turbos it starts off by giving you a formula that determines the minimum lb/min needed to make a certain amount of chp. This is where i was getting my numbers from.

Dan[FN]6262
09-02-2010, 08:04 AM
I've seen a few people making tons of power on a 1.8t. I'm not doubting that at all. I'm just saying you will need to run less boost on any particular turbo on a 2.0 compared to a 1.8t to rach the same hp goal.

no. 2.0 will only make the turbo spool slightly sooner. the turbo is what determines power.

2.0 w/50trim vs 1.8 w/50trim will make the same power. 2.0 will make power earlier, but they will both make the same peak power.

grillhands
09-02-2010, 11:40 AM
5857;5635739']no. 2.0 will only make the turbo spool slightly sooner. the turbo is what determines power.

2.0 w/50trim vs 1.8 w/50trim will make the same power. 2.0 will make power earlier, but they will both make the same peak power.

Why do people spend the extra money on building a 2.0 when the end result is just quicker spool for the turbo? What is your opinion on the information that garrett has on their webstie?

black99.5a4
09-02-2010, 11:47 AM
I've seen a few people making tons of power on a 1.8t. I'm not doubting that at all. I'm just saying you will need to run less boost on any particular turbo on a 2.0 compared to a 1.8t to rach the same hp goal.

this is truely setup specific here.. can we say for sure, identicle motors one will produce more then the other? idk if that has truely been built and seen. it should in theory yes.. but there are some 1.8/1.9's that are putting out more then 2.0's are with the same turbos.. other parts from that point on, are truely subjective to whatever the builder uses..

In a perfect world, where both motors were 100% identicle in parts and building techniques, then yes, the 2.0 would probably put a touch more down....... but you wont find this and when you do, the dyno's arent ever similar, so its hard to say what the variable is that keeps it from showing "real data"..

imo.

A4Rob
09-02-2010, 11:52 AM
Why do people spend the extra money on building a 2.0 when the end result is just quicker spool for the turbo?

Because they think it is the only way to "big power". 0.2 liters of extra displacement does not really help all that much. There are other ways to make your turbo spool faster; quickspool flange, nitrous, twin scroll setups ect. With my build I could not justify the extra $1000+ and the headaches making sure everything clears to go 2.0 for no real proven gains.

Jake39454
09-02-2010, 11:52 AM
Hey Seerlah,

Good info, small correction. 058 uses 20mm wrist pins, not 05A, not sure if thats even an VAG motor.

--dillon

Info has another flaw, as well as your info...

Seerlah, standard Pauter's do not come EDM'd, that's an option that pushes them close to $1000 for the last set I bought...

Nunya, ATW (2000) is 058 and has 19mm wrist pins and AWD (VW 2000) is 06A and has 20mm wrist pins [;)]

Dan[FN]6262
09-02-2010, 12:03 PM
Why do people spend the extra money on building a 2.0 when the end result is just quicker spool for the turbo? What is your opinion on the information that garrett has on their webstie?

Because some people deem it necessar. personally, I think that the "juice is not worth the squeeze" per say. The cost to go 2.0L is not worth it to me.

I haven't looked at the Garrett site, what are you referring to?

Dan[FN]6262
09-02-2010, 12:05 PM
With my build I could not justify the extra $1000+ and the headaches making sure everything clears to go 2.0 for no real proven gains.

thats exactly why I stayed 1.8 with my build.

nagle10
09-02-2010, 12:29 PM
Cool thanks, also does it matter which way its mounted. like 12 o'clock or 3 o'clock or no?

It does matter a little. This is from the instructions when installing a innovative wideband sensor.

"Do NOT install the Bung below the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position. Condensation can form in the exhaust pipe and permanently damage the sensor.
6 o’clock is the absolute worst position to mount the sensor."

Also since you are 2001 you should be able to eaisly write out the secondary o2 sensor.

Seerlah
09-02-2010, 12:42 PM
A built cylinder head with forged rods is more than sufficient to attain higher hp goals. It really boils down to the spooling of the turbo. Say the 50trim on the 1.8t, stock block and stock head for example. You will reach full spool somwhere around the 4.3-5k rpm range. Now you are limited to how much boost you can run. And also for not a long period, because the power band is not being permitted to stretch into the upper rpm where you will make the most hp (and tq?). Throw in forged rods and a built head into the table, and you are allowed to run higher boost, and with a more stretched power band. It's actually pretty simple if you look at it this way (50 trim example with say a .82 A/R).

Stock block:
15psi
4.5k rpm full spool
7.1k rev limit

Does not leave much room for you to make power

Forged rods and built head:
26psi with meth
4.5k rpm full spool
8.5k rev limit

One setup obviously makes more power than the other, simply by the added boost (and octane[;)]) and being permitted to stretch the power band.

Dan[FN]6262
09-02-2010, 12:49 PM
http://pix.motivatedphotos.com/2008/6/28/633502095110658970-Facepalm.jpg

Dan[FN]6262
09-02-2010, 12:52 PM
please do more research, comprehend what you're reading and then report back.

Seerlah
09-02-2010, 01:06 PM
Me[confused]

I keep having this feeling like you think I am posting wrong information. Maybe my wordings was misconstruded when I said built head with forged internals. I meant a built head with forged rods in the short block. Or maybe you're getting upset I am posting what people should already know?

grillhands
09-02-2010, 01:07 PM
5857;5636749']Because some people deem it necessar. personally, I think that the "juice is not worth the squeeze" per say. The cost to go 2.0L is not worth it to me.

I haven't looked at the Garrett site, what are you referring to?

i was referring to the tech1,2,3 articles on choosing a turbo for your car. Tech 1 article is basic turbo knowledge and tech 3 article is what we are interested in.

discontained
09-02-2010, 02:32 PM
It does matter a little. This is from the instructions when installing a innovative wideband sensor.

"Do NOT install the Bung below the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position. Condensation can form in the exhaust pipe and permanently damage the sensor.
6 o’clock is the absolute worst position to mount the sensor."

Also since you are 2001 you should be able to eaisly write out the secondary o2 sensor.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh thanks :) I was thinking bout the 1 o'clock pos. Thank you for that info sir +1


Annnnnd I have no idea about engines per say [evilsmile] I just read peoples threads and gather info, im still learning (why i havent said anything) and these discussions are helping me learn! Carry on gentleman.[wrench]

EDIT: Also, i just finished my transmission cooler!!!!!!!!!! gotta do some logs later tonight. Took it for a test run to check for pressure leaks, etc. NONE! woohoo no more leaks. Im also running Royal Purple Max ATF if anyone wants to know. The transmission shifts wayyyyyyyyyyyyy smoother and feels a ton better. Will keep update on that as well.



side note as well: 12lbs IS THE SHIT! (stock block)

A4Rob
09-02-2010, 03:04 PM
I must ask, why are you running a transmission cooler?

Dan[FN]6262
09-02-2010, 03:22 PM
his car is a TIP and his factory cooler was leaking and he couldn't get it to stop

discontained
09-02-2010, 04:01 PM
I must ask, why are you running a transmission cooler?

They kept leaking after I replaced the O-Ring 3 times, couldnt find regular lines new so I said eff it


5857;5637542']his car is a TIP and his factory cooler was leaking and he couldn't get it to stop

^ this

SleeperAvant
09-03-2010, 05:57 AM
12psi is slow haha, even this video of mine at 18psi looks slow...but it sure felt fast.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/stephenkao/4953573723/

Dan[FN]6262
09-03-2010, 06:15 AM
yeah, to be fast you need 25+ psi [evilsmile]

SleeperAvant
09-03-2010, 06:16 AM
Yeah for sure.

Dan[FN]6262
09-03-2010, 06:23 AM
Yeah for sure.

you turn your boost up to 20 yet?

SleeperAvant
09-03-2010, 06:25 AM
5857;5639235']you turn your boost up to 20 yet?

No, not yet. I think 20 would fry the tiptronic trans.

Dan[FN]6262
09-03-2010, 06:53 AM
nah, just get your TCU reprogrammed [:p]

when are you going to swap to a manual?

SleeperAvant
09-03-2010, 07:36 AM
5857;5639286']nah, just get your TCU reprogrammed [:p]

when are you going to swap to a manual?

Not sure, waiting on someone to let me know [:p]

Jake39454
09-03-2010, 11:04 AM
A built cylinder head with forged rods is more than sufficient to attain higher hp goals. It really boils down to the spooling of the turbo. Say the 50trim on the 1.8t, stock block and stock head for example. You will reach full spool somwhere around the 4.3-5k rpm range. Now you are limited to how much boost you can run. And also for not a long period, because the power band is not being permitted to stretch into the upper rpm where you will make the most hp (and tq?). Throw in forged rods and a built head into the table, and you are allowed to run higher boost, and with a more stretched power band. It's actually pretty simple if you look at it this way (50 trim example with say a .82 A/R).

Stock block:
15psi
4.5k rpm full spool
7.1k rev limit

Does not leave much room for you to make power

Forged rods and built head:
26psi with meth
4.5k rpm full spool
8.5k rev limit

One setup obviously makes more power than the other, simply by the added boost (and octane[;)]) and being permitted to stretch the power band.

I was revving out to 7700rpm on my stock block for 30k miles, and was banging it off the limiter during burnouts and 1st/2nd gear pulls due to wheelspin.... (this is my fwd golf I'm talking about)

discontained
09-03-2010, 11:15 AM
12psi is slow haha, even this video of mine at 18psi looks slow...but it sure felt fast.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/stephenkao/4953573723/
but im on a stock block so I cant go past my safe guard of 12. :)


5857;5639218']yeah, to be fast you need 25+ psi [evilsmile]
one day I shall

No, not yet. I think 20 would fry the tiptronic trans.
THIS! damn tips..

Dan[FN]6262
09-03-2010, 11:22 AM
but im on a stock block so I cant go past my safe guard of 12. :)


Steve is on a stock engine also.

Lazer Viking
09-03-2010, 11:37 AM
15psi on my stock block, i think i might turn it up another 2-3psi.. i keep forgetting i got the aeb because it was stronger stock then the 06a's

Dan[FN]6262
09-03-2010, 11:39 AM
15psi on my stock block, i think i might turn it up another 2-3psi.. i keep forgetting i got the aeb because it was stronger stock then the 06a's

I love your car. Since my car is "fast" now, I need to start making it look nice lol. My paint is so fucked.

Yeah, AEB engines are good for over 300 awhp [up]

CRANK THAT SHIT!!!!

Lazer Viking
09-03-2010, 11:42 AM
dont let the pictures fool you, my car looks every bit of 10 years old and 178k miles.. atleast i think so

SleeperAvant
09-03-2010, 11:58 AM
Yeah my block is stock too...

SleeperAvant
09-03-2010, 12:01 PM
As long as you guys aren't getting detonation, you will be fine. Just monitor your timing closely, check your spark plugs and your fueling.

Lazer Viking
09-03-2010, 12:04 PM
im not concerned about fueling or detonation, i have plenty of fuel.. im more worried about putting a new hole in my block when i snap a rod

SleeperAvant
09-03-2010, 12:04 PM
im not concerned about fueling or detonation, i have plenty of fuel.. im more worried about putting a new hole in my block when i snap a rod

detonation and lack of fueling will cause you to snap a rod....

Dan[FN]6262
09-03-2010, 12:09 PM
im not concerned about fueling or detonation, i have plenty of fuel.. im more worried about putting a new hole in my block when i snap a rod


detonation and lack of fueling will cause you to snap a rod....

what Steve said.

Lazer Viking
09-03-2010, 12:21 PM
yes, so will too much torque.. my timing and fueling are in check so my worries move to the issue of too much power.

if im running out of fuel with 550's then im probably making more then enough power to break shit.
that is if the fuel pump is keeping up, but thats besides the point.. haha

SleeperAvant
09-03-2010, 12:21 PM
yes, so will too much torque.. my timing and fueling are in check so my worries move to the issue of too much power.

if im running out of fuel with 550's then im probably making more then enough power to break shit.
that is if the fuel pump is keeping up, but thats besides the point.. haha

You won't snap a rod if you're under 20 psi on this turbo...it's already laggy enough so you won't get torque spikes down low.

Lazer Viking
09-03-2010, 12:54 PM
im aware, that was one of the deciding factors of going this route

Dan[FN]6262
09-03-2010, 02:56 PM
and its low rpm, high torque that snaps rods. high rpm, high torque is much better for them as there is no where near the same load on them as low rpm, high torque. ever see the rods used in F1 cars? lol they're TINY and those bastards make 800bhp lol. and they dont break because its all top end.


one of these days I'm gonna strap a huge turbo to a stock engine and see how long it takes to blow it up lol

SleeperAvant
09-03-2010, 03:06 PM
5857;5641042']and its low rpm, high torque that snaps rods. high rpm, high torque is much better for them as there is no where near the same load on them as low rpm, high torque. ever see the rods used in F1 cars? lol they're TINY and those bastards make 800bhp lol. and they dont break because its all top end.


one of these days I'm gonna strap a huge turbo to a stock engine and see how long it takes to blow it up lol

Do it! Slap a GT4088R and run a crazy amount of timing!

Dan[FN]6262
09-03-2010, 03:13 PM
Do it! Slap a GT4088R and run a crazy amount of timing!

on stock injectors!!!!

grillhands
09-03-2010, 03:15 PM
5857;5641042']and its low rpm, high torque that snaps rods. high rpm, high torque is much better for them as there is no where near the same load on them as low rpm, high torque. ever see the rods used in F1 cars? lol they're TINY and those bastards make 800bhp lol. and they dont break because its all top end.


one of these days I'm gonna strap a huge turbo to a stock engine and see how long it takes to blow it up lol

I want to see that

SleeperAvant
09-03-2010, 03:16 PM
5857;5641105']on stock injectors!!!!

lol now that's just dumb.

EErie B6
09-03-2010, 03:19 PM
lol now that's just dumb.

not if you only run 1-2psi [:D]

SleeperAvant
09-03-2010, 03:21 PM
not if you only run 1-2psi [:D]

Haha that would suggest a huge boost leak.

Dan[FN]6262
09-03-2010, 03:26 PM
lmao.



but seriously, I'm going to do it. I'm just too god damn curious.

SleeperAvant
09-03-2010, 03:48 PM
5857;5641148']lmao.



but seriously, I'm going to do it. I'm just too god damn curious.

lol, finish with your build first.

Dan[FN]6262
09-03-2010, 04:09 PM
my build is essentially finished!

black99.5a4
09-03-2010, 04:11 PM
I so happen to have a motor that is still built... its not mine and the owner doesnt have to know (unless tyler reads this.. haha jk)

Dan[FN]6262
09-03-2010, 04:16 PM
.................................................. oh yeah? *shifty eyes*

lol

grillhands
09-03-2010, 04:26 PM
5857;5641148']lmao.



but seriously, I'm going to do it. I'm just too god damn curious.

Just jump on a honda forum. They match there stock b16 to a monster turbo to spool when vtec hits. I don't know how long it lasts though.

black99.5a4
09-03-2010, 04:32 PM
it depends and no they dont just let it spool at VTEC.. you tune the VTEC to the turbo and in some cases, cams. Its adjustable with any tuning like Crome or Hondata.

Honda motors can take the boost, some better then others. But I have a local friend who I use to work with that is putting 328 down on a t3/t4 76trim (in that area, 70trim maybe) in his 95 Prelude with a H22 swap, bone stock motor.

EErie B6
09-03-2010, 04:33 PM
Just jump on a honda forum. They match there stock b16 to a monster turbo to spool when vtec hits. I don't know how long it lasts though.

anddd......

hows this going to tell us when the stock VAG 1.8t will blow?

lowandslow4now
09-03-2010, 04:40 PM
Sorry for thread interuption but Lazer viking I tried to PM you but your inbox is full.

grillhands
09-03-2010, 05:31 PM
anddd......

hows this going to tell us when the stock VAG 1.8t will blow?

I was being slightly sarcastic and..... how does your smart ass repy help?

discontained
09-03-2010, 06:00 PM
this thread is el oh el funneh.


hell, someone give me a shortblock and ill throw my stock stuff back on and let you know :P

EErie B6
09-03-2010, 06:23 PM
I was being slightly sarcastic and..... how does your smart ass repy help?
was not meant to be "smart-ass" ...your comment really had nothing to do with anything relevant.
anywho... im not going to fight or argue with you. im done with this here and now. [up]

out of respect for "discontained", we should really let his thread stay on topic.

grillhands
09-03-2010, 07:37 PM
was not meant to be "smart-ass" ...your comment really had nothing to do with anything relevant.
anywho... im not going to fight or argue with you. im done with this here and now. [up]

out of respect for "discontained", we should really let his thread stay on topic.

I agree...I'm working the night shift so i'm a little cranky. I came off wrong.

discontained
09-03-2010, 09:31 PM
:) i dont mind. its all in the direction of knowledge.[up]

I shall ask a question now, My turbo inlet sits about 3 inches from the headlight and its not enough space to put a filter so what are my options? I also noticed when my A/C is on the fan blows hot air all over my turbo, is this ok or do I need to make some kind of heatsheild to prevent that?

[wrench]

Seerlah
09-04-2010, 01:56 AM
http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=CHEW

Use one of these and plumb it back to open space, away from the turbine housing and where water does not have a good chance of being sucked into the intake on rainy days. I picked up an Injen filter (Amsoil) with Hydro-sheild pre filter for my setup for safety measure.

discontained
09-04-2010, 09:11 PM
http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=CHEW

Use one of these and plumb it back to open space, away from the turbine housing and where water does not have a good chance of being sucked into the intake on rainy days. I picked up an Injen filter (Amsoil) with Hydro-sheild pre filter for my setup for safety measure.

boyah! Thank you sir, i was looking for something exactly like that. think im gonna fab up a alum box behind where my pass fog light used to be and put a mesh cover on the opening then a cone filter, that should keep bugs/water out unless its just a huge puddle which i avoid anyway.

DrunkTylerr
09-05-2010, 06:08 AM
Just jump on a honda forum. They match there stock b16 to a monster turbo to spool when vtec hits. I don't know how long it lasts though.

Forever as long as the car is maintained and has a strong solid tune. I came from the honda world, my car ran 3+ years on 18lbs on a stock block with ARP headstuds(head lifting issues) on a 60trim. I know plenty of people that make over 420whp on stock blocks. Sorry if I am steering this thread off course, I tend to lurk a lot.

And for the turbo/vtec comment, most people will set vtec either early or later, most hondas will see boost (with what you guys call BT) around 4500rpms-5200rpms. [up] [up]

discontained
09-05-2010, 09:57 AM
^^ yep, when I had a EG hatch w/ a t3/ .67 trim, fully build B18 gsr, hondata s200. It would hit vtec then boost so its like a double punch, that car was fun but not nice to drive. No a/c, no pwr steering. the interior would creak when you drive it, was a fast lil ******.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/20090608-IMG_0110.jpg

I still need to order some o2 sensor bungs anyone know the size/ thread pitch i need to get? Or are they universal?

DrunkTylerr
09-05-2010, 11:50 AM
Nice hatch man, were you on HT? I sware I've seen that car in the eg thread a long time ago. As for bungs, do you have an AEM wideband? If you don't they come with a two bung connectors I believe, or atleast mine did. [up]

discontained
09-05-2010, 12:40 PM
Nice hatch man, were you on HT? I sware I've seen that car in the eg thread a long time ago. As for bungs, do you have an AEM wideband? If you don't they come with a two bung connectors I believe, or atleast mine did. [up]

nope, never was on honda-tech

I have a innovate LC-1 wideband I cant find the bung to save my life

discontained
09-05-2010, 12:44 PM
oh and here is a pic from the other day

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/20100831-IMG_0610copy.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/20100905-4952046335_2e7b7232c8_b.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs205.ash2/46838_713495262908_29718554_40034693_5633_n.jpg

DrunkTylerr
09-05-2010, 01:37 PM
nope, never was on honda-tech

I have a innovate LC-1 wideband I cant find the bung to save my life

I wasn't very found of those LC-1 wb's, didn't seem as accurate when it came to E85. I'll always stick with AEM gauges though, cheap ebay stuff are junk. (Not directed twords you at all)

Seerlah
09-05-2010, 02:27 PM
I still need to order some o2 sensor bungs anyone know the size/ thread pitch i need to get? Or are they universal?



http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1022_1069&osCsid=dda5af9db2dba270ffbaaa6e9811c042

discontained
09-05-2010, 03:52 PM
http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1022_1069&osCsid=dda5af9db2dba270ffbaaa6e9811c042

Ballin, thanks a bunch.


So took it (the car) out to do some logs, had a strange issue when the car got to temp was crusing and came to a stop the car sounded like a subaru wrx. Light turned green and I drove off and the problem disappered, hasnt done it since, NO CEL flash, or code for that. Those coilpacks are less than 4 months old.. the "R" versions. MEH

ZimbutheMonkey
09-06-2010, 12:04 AM
No, not yet. I think 20 would fry the tiptronic trans.

I bet an IPT torque converter would help (whistles nonchalantly)

Seerlah
09-06-2010, 02:45 AM
I really wouldn't consider ITP, after reading this (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/285605-My-little-1998-A4-2.0L-GT35R-built-TIPTRONIC). Manual swap conversion seems only the real viable course. Unless someone can find out a way to integrate the DSG tranny into the B5 A4 (still not sure how it would handle the extra power when applied), I would look into a manual conversion.

ZimbutheMonkey
09-06-2010, 09:08 AM
Yeah, I read that thread through and while I can't say for sure that IPT didn't mess up, there are always two sides to a story. Myself, I had one of their TC's in my car before it went 5 speed and I was extremely happy with it. I did 7 back to back dyno pulls with a GTRS elim setup (3 in 3rd and 4 in 4th gear) and the TC never once slipped. I guarantee that a stock converter wouldn't have fared so well (if it even survived at all).

discontained
09-07-2010, 12:13 AM
So I was tooling around town started to smell oil, pulled over and found oil splatter all over my intake mani, valve cover ... Turns out my crankcase breather port blew its hose off (that connected from the crank to the back of the valvecover to vent) and blew oil everywhere. Car drives normal, sounds normal. Is it normal for the crank to see that much pressure to pop something like that off with the U pin?

Dan[FN]6262
09-07-2010, 05:28 AM
hell no.

Lazer Viking
09-07-2010, 11:27 AM
probably was just old, common failure.

i have a brand new one if you'd like it shoot me a pm

viceprp
09-07-2010, 11:30 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Discontained/20100905-4952046335_2e7b7232c8_b.jpg

If it was me I would have said: "Get that F*CKING cup off my car!"

discontained
09-07-2010, 12:25 PM
probably was just old, common failure.

i have a brand new one if you'd like it shoot me a pm
this one is new, and its modified & plastic welded to a reducer to get a 5/8 hose to the valve cover.


If it was me I would have said: "Get that F*CKING cup off my car!"

lol, that was my cup :D my roof is eff'd up thanks to bird shit eating my paint

discontained
11-16-2010, 02:42 PM
Update:
Havent had any problems with the car opposed from I/C piping popping off, but a lip/bead on the ends solved that problem. Also the OBX Manifold cracked in several places. Dont buy it. Its a OBXRacing manifold and I called customer service and told them and they told me pretty much im SOL so just letting everyone know.

I ordered a ATP Cast manifold on friday now im just waiting on it to arrive. Hopefully i will have better luck with this manifold :D

Seerlah
11-16-2010, 02:55 PM
Should have spent the money and purchased the PSi Concept one. It's not even that much money when compared to other units on the market. Don't be surprised when the ATP mani cracks on you. I also read how that mani can be a PIA to install.

I am sure I asked before, but what intercooler you running?

discontained
11-16-2010, 09:33 PM
Well I went with a Racetec FMIC however I bought a Greddy V-Core for my 240 project but since i havent got the 2JZ-GTE swap yet i installed it on the audi. Its way better then my Racetec :)

I guess I should have searched a bit more on ATP i read a few posts saying they were good units. Hmm hopefully I wont crack mine, im not running highboost or anything. I let me turbo timer run for about 2.5 min I think the OBX was just crap.