View Full Version : A/C, blinkers, wipers All Out?

08-06-2010, 09:15 AM
I've kinda had this problem for a while and I thought it was caused by a bad connection when I tapped my fuse box wires. Pretty much the AC doesn't blow, wipers don't work and signals don't work; however my hazards work. Sometimes the AC will be on and off and I can hear some relay clicking as it tries to kick the AC on.

Any suggestions would be great!


08-06-2010, 10:12 PM
Search n00b... nah seriously though it sound like the problems i had and it was the load reduction relay. If you look that part up i know there was a few threads that explain what happens.

OR if he doesn't post in here really quick, pm walky_talky20. He's been the most help possible on this situation with everyone. [up]

08-08-2010, 12:15 AM
load reduction relay or maybe a bad ground? How are you living in Texas with out AC?? :|. I can see how you may survive without wipers lol.

I had a similar problem earlier this year, but my signals worked. It was a bad ignition switch. It was a pretty easy fix, just gotta make sure you re-install the steering wheel correctly, or else you're gonna have to take it off again and re-align it (which is a pain in the ass).

08-08-2010, 07:12 AM
I'll bet your fog lights don't work either. There is a couple other items you probably hadn't noticed, if equipped: rear window defogger, heated mirrors, and heated washer nozzles.

If it is just the A/C, wipers, turn signals, and fogs (and the heated crap) - it's is most likely a bad load reduction relay.

If your high and low beam headlamps don't work (not including Flash-To-Pass, that's separate), then it is the ignition switch. The reason is this: the output from the ignition switch that powers the headlights is also the output that powers up the load redecution relay. If all the LRR stuff is out, it's just the relay. But, if all the LRR stuff *AND* the headlamps are out, the problem is the ignition switch.

If this logic leads you to believe the LRR is bad, but you need to know FOR SURE, before you plunk down cash, you can simply jump past the relay. You just remove it and place a heavy jumper wire, with spade terminals across the source and load pins. You must be careful that you know what pins are what, as the power source for that relay is *completely un-fused* all the way to the battery. You don't want a light show here. Also, you can only leave the jumper in for testing, otherwise the accessories will stay on constantly. Do note this only checks the output circuits of the relay, you'd need a multi-meter or at least a test light to check for power and ground to check the coil side.

08-08-2010, 09:27 AM
I did some searching that day and found tons of stuff from you Walky;got lazy and forgot to update this post. tested my relays etc/fuses; they were all good.

Solved the problem last Friday- turns out that since I had my remote wire hooked up to my 75x post- it was just heating it up A LOT and basically making all of the connections for the other wires on that post really dirty so it was getting a bad connection. Disconnected the remote, cleaned up the wires on the post and everything works dandy now. As far as the remote, what should I hook that up to?

I appreciate yalls replies!

08-08-2010, 10:48 AM
Remote wire for an Amplifier? That shouldn't pull more than .5 amps in any case, I would think. I'd usually recommend hooking it to the 75x post.

If for some reason you need more power than that, but still need it to go and off with the key, you will need to incorporate your own relay. Have the relay triggered by the 75x circuit ("hot in run"), or the 15 circuit ("Hot in run or start") and supply with power from the battery. If you have a large enough power cable to the trunk, you could put this relay near your amp.