Turning Alcon Rotors

[Club Cheetah]

Do any of you who have done your brakes with the Alcon BBK know the best place to get them turned? I'm right by a Napa and I have brought rotors from all other cars there but I'm not to sure about these. Anything special?

[koolade9]

I'll let others speak up, but there are other ways to get old pad material off them... I just hate to see them turned and remove good rotor...

[EBG 18T]

I'll let others speak up, but there are other ways to get old pad material off them... I just hate to see them turned and remove good rotor...

come on Blake.. Lets here what you have to say.. [;)]

[koolade9]

come on Blake.. Lets here what you have to say.. [;)]

if he tells me what pads he's coming from, and what new pads he's switching to...I may be able to provide some input, hahaha [:)]

[Club Cheetah]

Going from the stock Alcon pads to the Carbotech Bobcats. I'm not exactly sure what the previous pads were exactly since they were on when I bought the car.

[belinko]

why turn them when swapping pads.

What about swapping back and forth between street and track pads?

[Club Cheetah]

Well I swapped them and they're smooth. Now I just need to get rid of the indicator on my dash.

[koolade9]

why turn them when swapping pads.

What about swapping back and forth between street and track pads?

Most folks will use two sets of rotors (one for track, one for street) if using pads that don't play well together...

The carbotech compounds play together nicely, meaning you can use one set of rotors and just swap pads. Up front, I swap between bobcats & xp12s...


Well I swapped them and they're smooth. Now I just need to get rid of the indicator on my dash.

That's a different issue... Since most pad options for us don't have the wear indicator, you need to find an old set of OEM pads, cut the pigtails and solder the two contacts together (basically making a loopback) and your indicator light will go away [up]

Also, when you say "stock alcon pads", do you mean the ferodo DS2500s? or the SBS pads?

[Club Cheetah]

[/QUOTE]Also, when you say "stock alcon pads", do you mean the ferodo DS2500s? or the SBS pads?[/QUOTE]

SBS

[EBG 18T]

SBS

SBS Pro pad transfer material is pretty burly. You can try to bed the Carbotech 1521's over them. But i would suggest scrubbing the rotors before you attempt it, your results will be better that way.

[belinko]

koolade9,

I thought you were using Project Mu's? That's what I'm running up front. I haven't tried swapping brake pads yet, but I'm happy with the Mu's. I just know that when swapping you should try to stay with the same type of compound (ceramic to ceramic, organic to organic).

[koolade9]

koolade9,

I thought you were using Project Mu's? That's what I'm running up front. I haven't tried swapping brake pads yet, but I'm happy with the Mu's. I just know that when swapping you should try to stay with the same type of compound (ceramic to ceramic, organic to organic).

I had the project mus on my 355/4 kit... Earlier this spring I upgraded to the 370/6 kit [cool] and bought all new pads from carbotech.

[dougyfresh]

I know STaSIS told me not to use a wire wheel or other aggressive device to take off heavy surface rust. I would call or email STaSIS and see what they say.

[belinko]

I had the project mus on my 355/4 kit... Earlier this spring I upgraded to the 370/6 kit [cool] and bought all new pads from carbotech.

Not happy with the Stasis Products?

I know Mike @ PureMS has had alot of success with carbotech's.

Do you know what type of compound are used with the "street" Mu's?

[koolade9]

I know STaSIS told me not to use a wire wheel or other aggressive device to take off heavy surface rust. I would call or email STaSIS and see what they say.

I'd be willing to bet that the media used by most tools would glaze the surface of the rotor, effectively moving you in the opposite direction. 100grit and elbow-grease should clean them up [up]


Not happy with the Stasis Products?

I know Mike @ PureMS has had alot of success with carbotech's.

Do you know what type of compound are used with the "street" Mu's?

I really liked the project mu's (honestly don't recall the compound, jim@stasis told me once but that was right when I got them)... but when I had my 355s, I ran two separate sets of rotors (track & street), and this go-round I wanted to just use one set and swap pads only. I'm still rockin' pretty much every product stasis makes [:)] and actually, stasis sells/uses carbotechs as well. When I ordered my xp12s, he told me stasis usually buys them all up whenever they make a batch, hahaa.

[Koolstuff 1]

Did you know...that many times what most people refer to as 'Brake Rotor Warping', is actually just brake pad material that has bonded itself to the rotor after 'hi-heat' brake applications. One inexpensive solution, is to purchase a 4" paint stripping wheel, available at any 'Big Box' hardware stores. After removing the wheels and calipers. In the area where the caliper was mounted, take the 'stripping wheel' in an electric or air drill and apply pressure to the rotor (enough to knock off any pad material) or to visibly take the 'glaze' off of the rotor face. Do this on BOTH sides of the rotor. Clean the rotors with warm to hot soapy water, rinse and reassemble. It would be advisable to re-bed the pads after this procedure.
This should eliminate or at least delay, the need to have the rotors re-surfaced.

Keith
[email protected]