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View Full Version : howmany B5'rs putting down over 400 WHP



fernando
06-07-2010, 04:52 PM
was just wondering howmany of you guys here are putting down 400 whp or more and what setups you are running?

DGAFxxx
06-07-2010, 04:54 PM
I'm putting down 400/2 awhp

A4Rob
06-07-2010, 04:58 PM
I do not have dyno numbers... yet. But I should put something around there.

Pistons, Rods, valves, high rate springs, ti retainers, cams, standalone ems, 1000cc injectors, holset hx35w turbo, bov, ex wg, 3" exhaust, intake manifold ect...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v468/a4robm/CIMG0061-1.jpg

Euro-Tuner
06-07-2010, 05:13 PM
...I should put something around there.


I should hope so.

Same here. no dyno, but I'll be on one soon and should be over 400awhp

grillhands
06-07-2010, 05:33 PM
I'm putting down 400/2 awhp

lol that's funny

A4Rob
06-07-2010, 05:34 PM
I would say that we have about 6+ B5ers putting down over 400awhp.

ScratchRob13
06-07-2010, 06:45 PM
I will be when I go up for my final tune... 360awhp last I was on the rollers with no meth and 10* timing.

viceprp
06-07-2010, 06:53 PM
I do not have dyno numbers... yet. But I should put something around there.

Pistons, Rods, valves, high rate springs, ti retainers, cams, standalone ems, 1000cc injectors, holset hx35w turbo, bov, ex wg, 3" exhaust, intake manifold ect...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v468/a4robm/CIMG0061-1.jpg

This is what I dream about at night and the main reason it hurts to roll over in the morning.

v dub'n
06-07-2010, 08:29 PM
I'm at 434whp on pump gas, still need to get her dialed in and swap out my intake manifold and put a real tbody and install the meth.

biketsai
06-08-2010, 02:41 AM
I do not have dyno numbers... yet. But I should put something around there.

Pistons, Rods, valves, high rate springs, ti retainers, cams, standalone ems, 1000cc injectors, holset hx35w turbo, bov, ex wg, 3" exhaust, intake manifold ect...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v468/a4robm/CIMG0061-1.jpg

Robs got the Midas touch

TighTT
06-08-2010, 06:29 AM
460whp on pump here.

goody6691
06-08-2010, 07:21 AM
i should be close to 400, when i get my proper tune

1NaudiA4
06-08-2010, 08:25 AM
Haven't dyno'd recently but I went to the track a few weeks ago and on E85 and 28lbs on a HTA30r I trapped 122mph. That should put me at atleast 400whp.

Sales@RAI
06-08-2010, 08:32 AM
I'm at 434whp on pump gas, still need to get her dialed in and swap out my intake manifold and put a real tbody and install the meth.

You in Woodbridge VA? Shot you a PM

stack
06-08-2010, 09:05 AM
not me =/

gli_ryan
06-08-2010, 03:51 PM
well.....I was at and was going to be a lot more than 400whp....then boom.

terraflata
06-08-2010, 05:20 PM
Great looking bay Rob. Nice to see you got rid of those AN fittings, those the JEGS ones? Everyone is gonna be sure I copied your engine colors when mine is finished, but it's a great thing for someone to want to copy. I just got my crossmember back from the powdercoaters and the gold is just awesome!

Back to the post. I will be over 400, hopefully break 500. I'll see it happen dammit, even if it is the longest damn build!

Terraflata

JEmm
06-08-2010, 05:53 PM
Great looking bay Rob. Nice to see you got rid of those AN fittings, those the JEGS ones? Everyone is gonna be sure I copied your engine colors when mine is finished, but it's a great thing for someone to want to copy. I just got my crossmember back from the powdercoaters and the gold is just awesome!

Back to the post. I will be over 400, hopefully break 500. I'll see it happen dammit, even if it is the longest damn build!

Terraflata

How long are you expecting it to take?

(I wanna see it done now that your pushing for 500... [>_<])

A4Rob
06-08-2010, 06:16 PM
Great looking bay Rob. Nice to see you got rid of those AN fittings, those the JEGS ones? Everyone is gonna be sure I copied your engine colors when mine is finished, but it's a great thing for someone to want to copy. I just got my crossmember back from the powdercoaters and the gold is just awesome!

Back to the post. I will be over 400, hopefully break 500. I'll see it happen dammit, even if it is the longest damn build!

Terraflata

Jegs ftw. Now I just need to do something with my FPR.

v dub'n
06-08-2010, 08:14 PM
No I'm in Woodbridge ontario in canada.
And 500 shouldn't be too hard. If I didn't max out my 2.5 bar map sensor I would of almost hit the 500 mark.

Oceanside
06-08-2010, 10:00 PM
When I get my car actually tuned I should be real close

GR-RALLYE
06-08-2010, 10:10 PM
I'm around 400 also. getting dynoed in a few months

Sales@RAI
06-08-2010, 10:18 PM
No I'm in Woodbridge ontario in canada.
And 500 shouldn't be too hard. If I didn't max out my 2.5 bar map sensor I would of almost hit the 500 mark.

Was this on a mustang or dynojet? And what turbo is it?

v dub'n
06-08-2010, 10:51 PM
Dynojet and the turbo is a 3586hta with .82 tial housing

flynnr
06-08-2010, 11:15 PM
well.....I was at and was going to be a lot more than 400whp....then boom.

do you wish you would have been satisfied with the gt28rs?

terraflata
06-09-2010, 12:22 AM
Its always longer than expected with me, I don't want to cut corners and for that reason my timeline suffers. Build plan thus far

2.0, Port and polish with full Ferrea Valvetrain Kit, Fully V-Banded Tubular Manifold and full 3" exhaust (All of this will be ceramic coated), HTA3076 or HTA35r (500 will obviously be more obtainable on pump with the 35r.....weighing out powerband desires), SEM Manifold or something custom, RS4 TB, and I decided to skip the Tapp Tune and jump straight to Standalone which is what recently set me back again, the stories of that damn MAF'd intake and crappy idle turned me off, besides it was an inevitable step. And just to let you guys know I just sourced a place locally that will be anodizing my IC and pipes gold. I am sure when it is all done I am gonna blow my transmission up! LOL

Sales@RAI
06-09-2010, 06:42 AM
Its always longer than expected with me, I don't want to cut corners and for that reason my timeline suffers. Build plan thus far

2.0, Port and polish with full Ferrea Valvetrain Kit, Fully V-Banded Tubular Manifold and full 3" exhaust (All of this will be ceramic coated), HTA3076 or HTA35r (500 will obviously be more obtainable on pump with the 35r.....weighing out powerband desires), SEM Manifold or something custom, RS4 TB, and I decided to skip the Tapp Tune and jump straight to Standalone which is what recently set me back again, the stories of that damn MAF'd intake and crappy idle turned me off, besides it was an inevitable step. And just to let you guys know I just sourced a place locally that will be anodizing my IC and pipes gold. I am sure when it is all done I am gonna blow my transmission up! LOL

that's basically my motor. Let me know if you need any help. You're definitely right, its a long road with lots of frustration, but breaking traction going 70 last night when I hit boost makes it worth it [drive]

JumboBlack1.8
06-09-2010, 07:36 AM
Add me to this list (LouB5's old car). Dyno'd 400awhp on Pump with a few issues......I'll be installing a Bosch 044 soon and 2.5" intercooler pipes (from 2" pipes).....then tuning for meth....Should hopefully be around 450whp

Haenszel20v
06-09-2010, 07:44 AM
Yessur.

v dub'n
06-09-2010, 05:48 PM
Breaking the tires loose must be fun, my car hooks and goes in every gear with 225/50/15 et street radials. I kinda miss the tire spin from fwd cars

327hp stg3+
06-10-2010, 07:22 AM
You can definitely add me to that list now since I went B.A.T!! I'm pushing 529awhp on 100hp shot of Nitrous 437hp without it whooooooooo.
Speaking of that now I need to change my name hahaha. Check my build thread!

2001BTA4
07-11-2014, 11:28 AM
I this is old thread but I had some questions for you 400whp+. I am supposed to be there I just dont feel it. Ill be making a build, for now i just have questions

do b5 a4 1.8ts with this power:

break the tires loose at all?

have any power below 4500rpm?

anyone do it with a BT 630 uni file?

anyone use it daily?

a guy at work told me small engines like this that make 500 + crank hp dont last like bigger engines, v8s and such....

no car noobie here just looking for real life experiences here. im a gear head my self here. lets just say im supposed to have 400+whp and it dont feel like it. more like 330ishwhp. this guy had a 2.5 wrx pushing 450whp. said when he floored it the tires broke loose. ran 11.1 1/4 at 32** lbs. lets just say my a4 isnt close to that. I am not wowed. so tell me about your 400+whp 1.8 a4 b5.

Gaberossi
07-11-2014, 12:12 PM
Im at 460whp AEB 1.8 Stock Head E85

edit: wow I didn't realize how old this was

lorge1989
07-11-2014, 12:18 PM
At 370 whp on a 3076 my B5 I didn't break loose in any gear. It wasn't a great tune, but power is power. That was on 225s up front and 235s in the back. If I flicked it hard enough I could get it sideways on dry ground in second. It was pretty violent though. lol

Poopie
07-11-2014, 03:18 PM
I this is old thread but I had some questions for you 400whp+. I am supposed to be there I just dont feel it. Ill be making a build, for now i just have questions

do b5 a4 1.8ts with this power:

break the tires loose at all?

have any power below 4500rpm?

anyone do it with a BT 630 uni file?

anyone use it daily?

a guy at work told me small engines like this that make 500 + crank hp dont last like bigger engines, v8s and such....

no car noobie here just looking for real life experiences here. im a gear head my self here. lets just say im supposed to have 400+whp and it dont feel like it. more like 330ishwhp. this guy had a 2.5 wrx pushing 450whp. said when he floored it the tires broke loose. ran 11.1 1/4 at 32** lbs. lets just say my a4 isnt close to that. I am not wowed. so tell me about your 400+whp 1.8 a4 b5.

I am running. T3/t04e 50 trim with a stage 3 turbine and I can break the tires loose in first gear. 2008cc awm with aeb head and IE cams. I would say I am close to 400whp at 23 psi

M-Hood
07-11-2014, 03:50 PM
I this is old thread but I had some questions for you 400whp+. I am supposed to be there I just dont feel it. Ill be making a build, for now i just have questions

do b5 a4 1.8ts with this power:

break the tires loose at all?

have any power below 4500rpm?

anyone do it with a BT 630 uni file?

anyone use it daily?

a guy at work told me small engines like this that make 500 + crank hp dont last like bigger engines, v8s and such....

no car noobie here just looking for real life experiences here. im a gear head my self here. lets just say im supposed to have 400+whp and it dont feel like it. more like 330ishwhp. this guy had a 2.5 wrx pushing 450whp. said when he floored it the tires broke loose. ran 11.1 1/4 at 32** lbs. lets just say my a4 isnt close to that. I am not wowed. so tell me about your 400+whp 1.8 a4 b5.

It is really going to depend on how good the tires are and the temps of the road surface.


Last time I did any work to my engine was in 2007 and am making over 650whp (800+chp). 7 years seems like a good amount of time to me.

When I did use it as my daily driver I was making over 500whp.


BTW it is kind of hard to compare a 400hp V8 to a 400hp I4 seeing the I4 is making twice as much power in each cylinder which means it has twice as much stress. So to me it is like comparing a 400hp I4 to a 800hp V8, not like a 800hp V8 is going is to last very long anyway. This means I would have to compare my 850hp A4 to a V8 making 1700hp when comparing stress per motor. lol

Gaberossi
07-12-2014, 08:48 AM
It is really going to depend on how good the tires are and the temps of the road surface.


Last time I did any work to my engine was in 2007 and am making over 650whp (800+chp). 7 years seems like a good amount of time to me.

When I did use it as my daily driver I was making over 500whp.


BTW it is kind of hard to compare a 400hp V8 to a 400hp I4 seeing the I4 is making twice as much power in each cylinder which means it has twice as much stress. So to me it is like comparing a 400hp I4 to a 800hp V8, not like a 800hp V8 is going is to last very long anyway. This means I would have to compare my 850hp A4 to a V8 making 1700hp when comparing stress per motor. lol

spot on [up][drive]

2001BTA4
07-14-2014, 06:52 AM
I am running. T3/t04e 50 trim with a stage 3 turbine and I can break the tires loose in first gear. 2008cc awm with aeb head and IE cams. I would say I am close to 400whp at 23 psi


I dont have the bore of your engine but I feel like I should be able to break them loose too if I do have that kind of power.

This is my 4th car project. Not just CAI, and exhaust bolt ons. More like head to toe rebuilds. Im no stranger to power. And this doesnt feel like 500+CHP like I should have. To make a long story short ( the long one will be in the build ) All my other builds I researched and researched. I have been to many shops and what I saw was shops help you the most when you let them do the work. The research, the tuning, the parts buying. They want to get the money not just oh here this is what I put together tune it, make it work. And I realize this can be a argument in it self. But I was working 60+hrs a week and had no time. So I trusted 034 motorsports. Told them I want to run low 12's high 11's with a 2001 1.8 a4. They made me a package and here i am. Rebuilt stock CC motor, stock head, SPA ex mani, CEA 5558 .48 turbo, IE rods, stock pistons, and all other supporting mods. FMIC, 3" exhaust turbo back, etc. They told me at 23psi I should be 420+whp on mustang dyno and run low 12's. And have good spool for BT. NOPE! doesnt feel like it. I have to wait till i get to the dyno, but im waiting for my IE manifold first. But it just doesnt feel like a 500+chp car and I think it spools way to slow. 4K starts to feel good 4.5 is better 5K is best, below 4? I think id lose to a chipped stock a4. So thats why im here asking you fine people what your real life experience is with 400+whp.

I had a run with a legacy GT 2001 style. It was very hard to pass. whats this car low 14's high 13's best stock. with 420whp It should of been like taking candy from a kid. i dont think it was modified. looked bone stock. FMIC is first thing most do cause it looks mean and oh ill have more power. not this car looked factory everything. My guts usually right on these things.

any one have any 1/4 times with this power?

M-Hood : i would love to see your build if you have one. 10 sec car there ?

M-Hood
07-14-2014, 08:03 AM
I am surprised it is spooling slow with a .48 a/r? Any reason for going with that small of a a/r with a 58mm exhaust wheel?

Do you have any logs of timing adv and timing pull? It could just be as simple as a tuning issue. What octane fuel is the car tuned for? Because if it is tuned for west coast 91 octane then that might be the problem.

Could also be the cams holding you back if your still running stock cams, they tend to be a restriction right around 400whp.


M-Hood : i would love to see your build if you have one. 10 sec car there ?

No I don't, but there are plenty of threads about my car seeing I have been a member on this forum since 2003 and have owned my A4 since 2000. My build started long before they started a "build" forum. lol

You can find many of my older threads under the name Mike2ptzero.



Yes, the car went 10.55 at 132mph in CA back in 2008 with a plain GT3582r. I then added a 10 point cage and later moved to AZ, upgraded to a HTA3586r compressor wheel and ran 10.732 at 136 even with the extra 100 lbs and in a much higher DA/Elevation. You can find plenty of videos of my car on youtube and on Streetfire.net under the name Audi2ptzero.


Here is the video of my 10.732 run

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BphakQDsA1M

2001BTA4
07-14-2014, 09:41 AM
Very nice video. I think i have seen that car before in a video.

034 put everything together, I trusted them with the whole build ( engine, turbo kit., inter cooler, suspension and Misc I looked around ) I think the CEA turbos are a product they like to push vs Garret turbos. Because I wanted a ball bearing garret but I was assured the 5558 would spool faster because of the billet wheel. Since I was going to use this as a DD they said .48 would provide fastest spool. I listened to the pros and bought everything they suggested. Every other shop I ever went to would say well you should of done this that way, and bought this instead of that. And if you came here... blah blah blah. SO I said not this time. I gave them my goal and they sold me the parts I would need for that goal. So I flew blind on this one.

Its got a 630cc UNI file 93 oct. I had them leave all emissions in place so I can pass it. And I did. NO CEL for 800mi. Knock on wood. car is stock compression too. stock cam too. basically they said buy this turbo and supporting mods (rods of course) crank up the boost to 23-25psi and 420whp... 400 min.

seanj130
07-14-2014, 10:09 AM
That chime in here.. I personally know 2 that are in the 5 and 600awhp ranges that do not post to the forums..


I would say that we have about 6+ B5ers putting down over 400awhp.

zandrew
07-14-2014, 02:35 PM
That chime in here.. I personally know 2 that are in the 5 and 600awhp ranges that do not post to the forums..

I fu$%ing love your signature bro. Really just made my day..

I am wondering what the fastest elapsed time in the quarter from a car making 450AWHP or less with a complete interior and daily driven.

M-Hood
07-15-2014, 08:03 AM
Very nice video. I think i have seen that car before in a video.

034 put everything together, I trusted them with the whole build ( engine, turbo kit., inter cooler, suspension and Misc I looked around ) I think the CEA turbos are a product they like to push vs Garret turbos. Because I wanted a ball bearing garret but I was assured the 5558 would spool faster because of the billet wheel. Since I was going to use this as a DD they said .48 would provide fastest spool. I listened to the pros and bought everything they suggested. Every other shop I ever went to would say well you should of done this that way, and bought this instead of that. And if you came here... blah blah blah. SO I said not this time. I gave them my goal and they sold me the parts I would need for that goal. So I flew blind on this one.

Its got a 630cc UNI file 93 oct. I had them leave all emissions in place so I can pass it. And I did. NO CEL for 800mi. Knock on wood. car is stock compression too. stock cam too. basically they said buy this turbo and supporting mods (rods of course) crank up the boost to 23-25psi and 420whp... 400 min.


Well numbers wise and the fact that you have stock cams and 25psi on pump gas I would say you would be looking at around 350-375awhp, just based off of what others have made with a turbo running those size wheels. Basically you are running a turbo that is about the size of a GT30r but with a slightly smaller turbine wheel. A friend of mine with a GT3076r on a fully built 2 liter and built 20v head with Cat 58 cams put down 367awhp on 91 octane pushing about 25psi and 426whp on 93 octane, but that was with more displacement and AEB head that had aftermarket cams. I know someone with a upgraded rod A4 1.8t with a CT5156 put down about 380whp on 93 octane with stock cams.


I just don't get why your turbo is spooling up so late. At what rpm do you hit 23-25psi during a 3rd gear pull from low rpm?

I think a turbo with a smaller exhaust wheel would have been a better choice then going with a .48 a/r which is going to really reduce the flow on that large exhaust wheel. But that is just my opinion. PTE does offer smaller turbos that have the CEA wheel and ball bearing, like the 5530 which is a 55mm CEA compressor wheel and a 56.5mm exhaust wheel rated at 535hp. They also have a 5130 which is a 51mm compressor wheel with the 56.5mm exhaust wheel. Both of those are offered with a T3 housing but only come with a B or E cover, not the S cover like offered on the 5558 which is the smallest Street/Race turbo PTE offers.

gmx
07-15-2014, 08:24 AM
Wait, so 034 did the build and they settled with the Uni 630 BT File?
They didn't even offer you a custom tune? It's an 01, easier to custom tune than the others and they still didn't throw it on the rollers for their own 034sauce?

lol.

2001BTA4
07-15-2014, 08:34 AM
to make matters worse it was raining yesterday and the tires didnt break loose in 1st or any other gear for that matter. Is that normal for 400whp? Any real life 400whp experiences? Track times? spool rpms?

M-Hood
07-15-2014, 08:44 AM
to make matters worse it was raining yesterday and the tires didnt break loose in 1st or any other gear for that matter. Is that normal for 400whp? Any real life 400whp experiences? Track times? spool rpms?


400whp should get you in the low 12's, but that will depend on the driver.

If your car is Quattro then I wouldn't worry so much about breaking the tires loose seeing not breaking the tires loose is the point of having AWD. lol


Here is a dyno sheet of my friends built B6 that 034 built/tuned, this is on the old dyno 034 used to have.
http://px6.streetfire.net/0002/95/77/2045977_600.jpg

2001BTA4
07-15-2014, 08:53 AM
m hood id like to PM you to ask some questions. if you dont mind. didnt want to stray to far from the thread title.

yeah 034 did the whole setup. They told me its a very common setup that they have done to many customer cars. And will make 400+whp ( on mustang dyno ) on Bone stock engine with some rods. They offtered me APR, UNI, and In house (with stock ecu ). I've never had a good in house tune myself so I stayed far from that and picked UNI after some research. They sent me a in house 550cc tune. Was really pissed off. They said it would deliver, so I left it till I finally tried the car after the build. It was shit and after some choose words and back and forth BS I got the tune I Paid for. Uni is WAY better but the power just isnt there.

2001BTA4
07-15-2014, 08:54 AM
yes quattro, but in the rain? they should spin. 5spd man

redline380
07-15-2014, 09:47 AM
yes quattro, but in the rain? they should spin.

I can get mine to spin off the line if it is damp, or I am turning and I am only at 320awhp.

2001BTA4
07-15-2014, 10:12 AM
I can get mine to spin off the line if it is damp, or I am turning and I am only at 320awhp.

Is that in the rain or dry?

redline380
07-15-2014, 10:14 AM
Is that in the rain or dry?

Only if it is damp, and that's not dropping the clutch either, just when the boost hits the tires will spin a little. Only if it is damp or sandy though. I can get them to spin while turning in the dry though

J_L
07-15-2014, 03:43 PM
034 put everything together, I trusted them with the whole build ( engine, turbo kit., inter cooler, suspension and Misc I looked around ) I think the CEA turbos are a product they like to push vs Garret turbos. Because I wanted a ball bearing garret but I was assured the 5558 would spool faster because of the billet wheel. Since I was going to use this as a DD they said .48 would provide fastest spool. I listened to the pros and bought everything they suggested. Every other shop I ever went to would say well you should of done this that way, and bought this instead of that. And if you came here... blah blah blah. SO I said not this time. I gave them my goal and they sold me the parts I would need for that goal. So I flew blind on this one.

Its got a 630cc UNI file 93 oct. I had them leave all emissions in place so I can pass it. And I did. NO CEL for 800mi. Knock on wood. car is stock compression too. stock cam too. basically they said buy this turbo and supporting mods (rods of course) crank up the boost to 23-25psi and 420whp... 400 min.

If they buildt you car and said it would yield 400hp, they should atleast include a dynorun to back up Your Investment. For me that would be a MUST if i where to drop that kinda $$$$

Seerlah
07-15-2014, 03:52 PM
Don't really pay attention much, but I think I recall being able to kick my rear end out in the rain on a straight line pull. But I also have the 4:1 center diff bias mod. Turbo is a CT2 5152 on a custom 93 octane tune ran at 25psi currently (where I feel safe for now). Not sure how much HP.

melomandn
07-15-2014, 04:01 PM
If they buildt you car and said it would yield 400hp, they should atleast include a dynorun to back up Your Investment. For me that would be a MUST if i where to drop that kinda $$$$

I know this isnt a typical thing for 034 to do but I couldnt agree more, if it was just an estimate thats one thing, but if they specifically told you it should put down 400awhp and you gave them that much money then they should at least include a dyno pull..

Cybersombosis
07-15-2014, 04:07 PM
Heck I can break mine loose in the wet and I'm only stage 1+.

Doug

M-Hood
07-15-2014, 05:00 PM
If they buildt you car and said it would yield 400hp, they should atleast include a dynorun to back up Your Investment. For me that would be a MUST if i where to drop that kinda $$$$

That might be a bit hard if the car has never been at the 034 shop and he just bought the parts from them to install himself.


Don't really pay attention much, but I think I recall being able to kick my rear end out in the rain on a straight line pull. But I also have the 4:1 center diff bias mod. Turbo is a CT2 5152 on a custom 93 octane tune ran at 25psi currently (where I feel safe for now). Not sure how much HP.

The center diff mod will help while turning, but when the car is going straight the power is split 50/50 like with the stock diff.

zandrew
07-15-2014, 05:50 PM
Is that in the rain or dry?

Its going to be hard to break the tires loose with a big turbo. By the time you make ample hp to break them loose the car is aleady moving so its harder to spin the tires. With the car not moving there is no load and your not making enough hp to break them loose. If you clutch dump but then why buy a car with a AWD?

If you are running a 5558 with a .48 it should not be an issue. That is larger exducer so it would not create back pressure like say 52 turbine would in the same size AR.


Personally if you went to 034 to have them put the car together you should have trusted them enough to tune it themself instead of buying an OTS. Those OTS tunes are designed to accomadate a range of turbos instead of tailored to 1 specific turbo. The 5558 should easily get you to the hp your looking for.

Did 034 want to tune it or did they specify an OTS?

Cybersombosis- Your stage 1 is making a lot more power then a BT at the lower RPM's.

Poopie
07-15-2014, 06:17 PM
Sounds your setup is not running right. Breaking tires or not. 400whp should be fast.

Cybersombosis
07-15-2014, 07:30 PM
Cybersombosis- Your stage 1 is making a lot more power then a BT at the lower RPM's.
Actually that makes a lot of sense.

Doug

Seerlah
07-16-2014, 02:07 AM
I'm not talking down low (like from a roll). I mean kicked loose on a wot pull. Could have happened when changing gears. Wasn't paying attention.

A4Rob
07-16-2014, 05:14 AM
That chime in here.. I personally know 2 that are in the 5 and 600awhp ranges that do not post to the forums..


Keep in mind my comment was from 2010. Now there is probably over 50 people making 400+

Poopie
07-16-2014, 07:41 AM
I'm not talking down low (like from a roll). I mean kicked loose on a wot pull. Could have happened when changing gears. Wasn't paying attention.

i can break my tires loose on wet pavement in 2nd gear when the boost really ramps up on a wot pull

M-Hood
07-16-2014, 08:50 AM
Keep in mind my comment was from 2010. Now there is probably over 50 people making 400+

But how many of those still have a working stock transmission? [;)]

demonmk2
07-16-2014, 09:32 AM
^^ I was waiting for that. Lol

demonmk2
07-16-2014, 09:33 AM
Does anyone know what kind of upgrades can be down to the 5spd?

redline380
07-16-2014, 09:42 AM
Does anyone know what kind of upgrades can be down to the 5spd?

Yeah, get a better designed transmission like a 01e 5 speed [:D]

Realistically, some guys cryo treat the gears and shafts. And I think JHM has some better synchros out for 01a/012 trannies. Really though, it isn't manufactured to withstand that much power. If you don't have a problem with swapping trannies, then just burn them up and buy another junkyard one.

A4Rob
07-16-2014, 10:23 AM
But how many of those still have a working stock transmission? [;)]

I have had the same transmission in my car since 2004 [cool]. I also do not launch my car.

gmx
07-16-2014, 11:36 PM
Hey Rob, slightly OT here but asking about the characteristics of your car;
Obviously this is dependent on what track you're running at, but I bet you rarely get down to 2nd gear right?

I think the guys without much grip (less speed, out of powerband), slow corners that have to go from 2nd -> 3rd coming out are asking for it. I always try granny the 2-3 shift, since it exposes the weak point in the trans. The CDV you can get from RingerRacing should help that. I also found out after 6 years of abuse (well its been like this since 3.5 yrs ago now), consisting of all-wheelspin coming out of corners, say goodbye to your diffs. They will be loose as a pornstar. 01e has much more stout front, & centre diff. replace the rear with aftermarket LSD and you're good to go but $$.

zandrew
07-17-2014, 08:09 AM
Whats the safe limit of the trans for a daily that is drove spirited? I have whine in my trans that starts at 70 and goes away at 75mph. Its not bad but its noticeable. The car does not act different at all though.

M-Hood
07-17-2014, 02:37 PM
Whats the safe limit of the trans for a daily that is drove spirited? I have whine in my trans that starts at 70 and goes away at 75mph. Its not bad but its noticeable. The car does not act different at all though.

Sounds like you might have chipped a tooth. The 01A can handle a good amount of hp, I never really had any problems till I was pushing over 600hp/500tq at the wheels. The main issue with the 01 is torque shock going into 3rd gear, you go to put it into 3rd gear after running up 2nd really high and the gear is just gone.


I have had the same transmission in my car since 2004 [cool]. I also do not launch my car.

Launching isn't really the issue, the weak spot is 3rd gear and the input shaft which flexes too much during high torque shock.


I have broken way too many 3rd gears and have only broken the transmission twice while launching in the 13+ years I have been taking my car to the drag strip. In the last 2 years I have broken 3rd gear twice while completely in 3rd gear. IIRC my original 01A transmission was 9+ years old before it broke 3rd gear for the first time, that is the transmission that was in my car when I went 10.55 in CA.

coolgraymemo
07-17-2014, 02:51 PM
Yeah, get a better designed transmission like a 01e 5 speed [:D]


Has anyone ever swapped a five speed 01e into a B5?

demonmk2
07-17-2014, 02:57 PM
Yeah, get a better designed transmission like a 01e 5 speed [:D]
.

Is that doable?

demonmk2
07-17-2014, 02:59 PM
I was also wondering what is the part that is weakest
To blow the 01a trans? I know its something to do with
3rd gear, some kind of shaft or something.

M-Hood
07-17-2014, 06:52 PM
Has anyone ever swapped a five speed 01e into a B5?

I looked into do it but the gearing in the 5 speed 01E is horrible.


I was also wondering what is the part that is weakest
To blow the 01a trans? I know its something to do with
3rd gear, some kind of shaft or something.

I answered that on one of my other replies in this thread. The input shaft flexes allowing the gears to pull away from each other. I looked into having a cuff made for it but couldn't find anyone that would be willing to do the work since both shafts have to be machined down to fit bearings where 5th gear would sit. Going with a flow control valve helps some by reducing how quick the clutch engages, I run one on my car and use the smallest jet which still allows me to pull 1.5 60 ft times and run 10's in the 1/4 mile.

A4Rob
07-17-2014, 08:31 PM
Hey Rob, slightly OT here but asking about the characteristics of your car;
Obviously this is dependent on what track you're running at, but I bet you rarely get down to 2nd gear right?

I think the guys without much grip (less speed, out of powerband), slow corners that have to go from 2nd -> 3rd coming out are asking for it. I always try granny the 2-3 shift, since it exposes the weak point in the trans. The CDV you can get from RingerRacing should help that. I also found out after 6 years of abuse (well its been like this since 3.5 yrs ago now), consisting of all-wheelspin coming out of corners, say goodbye to your diffs. They will be loose as a pornstar. 01e has much more stout front, & centre diff. replace the rear with aftermarket LSD and you're good to go but $$.


Yes there is a good 4th gear to 2nd gear at my local track. youtube BIR short course and you will see the hard left 90 corner. You come into it around 100 to 110 and slow down to about 40. You can see it in the first 20 seconds of this video or full speed around 2:00 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZkcmR-cxf7Y

Another video of a 460whp Evo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2FocHH0t_w





Launching isn't really the issue, the weak spot is 3rd gear and the input shaft which flexes too much during high torque shock.



I know this. 1st hand with my original transmission. Again, this is the torque shock of shifting hard, aka drag racing.

M-Hood
07-18-2014, 08:21 AM
I know this. 1st hand with my original transmission. Again, this is the torque shock of shifting hard, aka drag racing.

Well not really just drag racing, any time you are running 2nd to redline and then shifting quickly into 3rd. So it can happen on any track or even just on the street which has happen to others. Drag racing isn't about shifting hard, it is about shifting smoothly but quickly. Sure granny shifting helps, but doesn't really help when you are trying to keep the car in the power band. lol

BTW shifting early out of 2nd to 3rd can help, this is also one of the reasons the 2.8 01A transmission helps since it drops the rpm slightly more then the 1.8t when going into 3rd. When I tried running the hybrid 01A with the taller 1st/2nd, 3rd gear would never hold since those taller gears ended up putting 3rd gear right in the peak of my torque which did not help which is why I went back to the stock 1.8t 01A transmission. I might try going back to a 2.8 01A to see how long it will hold together with the added power my car makes now.

zandrew
07-18-2014, 09:37 AM
So what options are there without spending an arm and a leg or going to a S4 six speed? Also what hp levels will the trans actually hold without issue? Or is this an issue of strictly bouncing off a high redline that could be remedied by keeping the revs down to a specific point?

Mike the sound it makes is almost identical to a speedometer cable if you have ever heard one whine.

M-Hood
07-18-2014, 11:06 AM
So what options are there without spending an arm and a leg or going to a S4 six speed? Also what hp levels will the trans actually hold without issue? Or is this an issue of strictly bouncing off a high redline that could be remedied by keeping the revs down to a specific point?

Mike the sound it makes is almost identical to a speedometer cable if you have ever heard one whine.

yeah I know the sound, it happens often to 2.8 01A owners but with 1st gear.


Shifting sooner can help since it is all about the amount of torque shock going into 3rd gear, if you shift slower that will also help some. It does seem to happen more often to people that are pushing their cars to 8k+.

If you need to change out your transmission, you can always try going to a 2.8 01A 5 speed, it will help a bit since the rpm drops down more going into 3rd. It also helps for fwy driving, but the down side is that it makes the car accelerate slower thru the gears since they are slightly taller.

demonmk2
07-18-2014, 05:22 PM
I looked into do it but the gearing in the 5 speed 01E is horrible.



I answered that on one of my other replies in this thread. The input shaft flexes allowing the gears to pull away from each other. I looked into having a cuff made for it but couldn't find anyone that would be willing to do the work since both shafts have to be machined down to fit bearings where 5th gear would sit. Going with a flow control valve helps some by reducing how quick the clutch engages, I run one on my car and use the smallest jet which still allows me to pull 1.5 60 ft times and VGrun 10's in the 1/4 mile.

How would the cuff work?
I ask because I may be able to make one/get one made..I just could not market it.
But I could do a couple..[up]

zandrew
07-19-2014, 10:42 AM
Mike the sound only happens in 5th I am pretty sure. I will check and see if it happens in 4th. I changed my trans fluid and there was nothing irregular about it. I guess this is just something else to sweat about.

2001BTA4
07-22-2014, 02:29 PM
so the guy i bought the a4 from put a ebay short shifter in the car. When pushing the car its hard to take it out of gear and put it to the next. Especially 1st shifting at 7k to 2nd??? is this the shifter or trans? clutch grabs super low too, which I hate. Even normal driving is notchy.

John at Unitronic also said I would reach my goal with this setup and Uni tune. But this doesnt feel like 400, 375, or even 300whp. Id be surprised if it dynoed higher then 280. It feels like theres something wrong but I cant tell what. Its like a have a BAT but I dont have the kick at higher rpms. Its a dog around town. Even on the highway say at 70 to get good power I need to go down to 3rd. I have all the supporting mods. Im stumped. Idles good no CEL.

A4Rob
07-22-2014, 02:59 PM
John at Unitronic also said I would reach my goal with this setup and Uni tune. But this doesnt feel like 400, 375, or even 300whp. Id be surprised if it dynoed higher then 280. It feels like theres something wrong but I cant tell what. Its like a have a BAT but I dont have the kick at higher rpms. Its a dog around town. Even on the highway say at 70 to get good power I need to go down to 3rd. I have all the supporting mods. Im stumped. Idles good no CEL.

It would help if you explained what setup you have.

fed0ra
07-22-2014, 03:10 PM
so the guy i bought the a4 from put a ebay short shifter in the car. When pushing the car its hard to take it out of gear and put it to the next. Especially 1st shifting at 7k to 2nd??? is this the shifter or trans? clutch grabs super low too, which I hate. Even normal driving is notchy.

John at Unitronic also said I would reach my goal with this setup and Uni tune. But this doesnt feel like 400, 375, or even 300whp. Id be surprised if it dynoed higher then 280. It feels like theres something wrong but I cant tell what. Its like a have a BAT but I dont have the kick at higher rpms. Its a dog around town. Even on the highway say at 70 to get good power I need to go down to 3rd. I have all the supporting mods. Im stumped. Idles good no CEL.

I'm hoping its not the shifter, I have one waiting to go in [:|].

You said that the clutch grabs low, like you have to depress the clutch pedal really far to disengage it? Do you know what kind of clutch is in there? If its not stock then something seems off since these cars are known for their high engagement point. Maybe you have a puck style clutch or maybe even an unsprung clutch. Either of those could make the car feel very on/off, or "notchy". Do you mean notchy in the sense that when you actually put the shifter into gear it feels notchy or when you press the clutch in and out? If its the shifter itself then I would look at the shifter assembly. Its pretty easy to overtighten the linkage or put the shifter box back in a little crooked or "off", making it difficult to shift into some gears. If you loosen it and retighten in position and it still does it, then maybe buy someones used stock shifter to see if that helps?

It could also be your synchros going...

viceprp
07-22-2014, 06:22 PM
3076
ID1000's
Lugtronic

Car is only running 18psi but feel like a low 300whp car right now. Street tune comes soon and then E85.

2001BTA4
07-24-2014, 04:42 AM
Well my setup again is CEA 5558 .48 a/r, on stock motor with rods. If some one has some good ideas besides run it off a cliff im all ears. I've got alot of money in this thing. And before I go pointing fingers I want to make sure its a bad turbo, or wrong setup or what ever. Again I handed over the cash and 034 designed the setup for low 12's, est 420whp on 93 pump. It feels like a k04 setup at best, but without the good low end. I've got all supporting mods, no cheap parts or short cuts. Even got a over priced garret FMIC from 034 $900+. Fuel spark exhaust its all there. Its a 100hp dog in town and low 14's high 13's highway at best. I have yet to run my chipped s4. Im kind of out of money to bring it to a shop and say fix it. Spark plugs look good, and I did the 2.0 coil conversation too.

as for trans, have a SPEC 2+ 240mm/flywheel. This shifter was notchy with stock clutch too. I did a clutch on my sisters b6 a4 1.8 and it grabs too. Can that be adjusted? I was hoping that its the ebay shifter making it so notchy

viceprp
07-24-2014, 05:13 AM
Why are you running a .48?

Poopie
07-24-2014, 07:20 AM
Well my setup again is CEA 5558 .48 a/r, on stock motor with rods. If some one has some good ideas besides run it off a cliff im all ears. I've got alot of money in this thing. And before I go pointing fingers I want to make sure its a bad turbo, or wrong setup or what ever. Again I handed over the cash and 034 designed the setup for low 12's, est 420whp on 93 pump. It feels like a k04 setup at best, but without the good low end. I've got all supporting mods, no cheap parts or short cuts. Even got a over priced garret FMIC from 034 $900+. Fuel spark exhaust its all there. Its a 100hp dog in town and low 14's high 13's highway at best. I have yet to run my chipped s4. Im kind of out of money to bring it to a shop and say fix it. Spark plugs look good, and I did the 2.0 coil conversation too.

as for trans, have a SPEC 2+ 240mm/flywheel. This shifter was notchy with stock clutch too. I did a clutch on my sisters b6 a4 1.8 and it grabs too. Can that be adjusted? I was hoping that its the ebay shifter making it so notchy

we would love you help you out. don't panic. we are going to need more information.

What are your boost settings? timing advance? Post up some logs so we can see the ECU working first. then we can back track and see if its something mechanical.

chris164935
07-24-2014, 08:47 AM
Have you talked to 034 at all about how you feel? I would say start with dynoing the car to show it is underperforming. Then, show that to 034. The one thing I'm still confused about is who did the actual work on your car though. Did you just buy a "kit" from them and install it yourself?

M-Hood
07-24-2014, 09:54 AM
Why are you running a .48?

Pretty sure he just wanted as quick of a spool up as possible with that size turbo, but to me that is just too small and is going to restrict how much peak power the turbo can make. He would have been better off going with a slightly smaller turbo with a .63 a/r.




as for trans, have a SPEC 2+ 240mm/flywheel. This shifter was notchy with stock clutch too. I did a clutch on my sisters b6 a4 1.8 and it grabs too. Can that be adjusted? I was hoping that its the ebay shifter making it so notchy

If the clutch is engaging at the very bottom of the pedal travel it could just be an issue with the clutch which has been a problem with other people that tried the Spec 240mm kit, it is just a quality control issue. If the stack height is incorrect the pedal has to travel further then normal to get the fingers all the way down to release the disk 100%. An option to try and fix the issue would be to making a slightly longer slave rod, but you can't make it too long other wise the slave bottoms out when it is pushed all the way in and the clutch ends up not fully engaging.

GrapeBandit
07-24-2014, 11:03 AM
so who busted any transmissions with 400awhp. I was told by a little birdie that our transmissions let loose at around 400awhp. I had over 500 on my last b5 and it didnt bust. was I the lucky one?

ricekikr
07-24-2014, 11:08 AM
When pushing the car its hard to take it out of gear and put it to the next. Especially 1st shifting at 7k to 2nd??? is this the shifter or trans? clutch grabs super low too, which I hate. Even normal driving is notchy.

Could be master/slave issue. Or maybe just needs a bleed (rear jacked up helps). Could also be a too short slave rod or release bearing.

My fx400 240mm when new released somewhere in the middle then gradually moved to the top when it started slipping. Neuspeed shifter.

AudiA4_20T
07-24-2014, 11:16 AM
so who busted any transmissions with 400awhp. I was told by a little birdie that our transmissions let loose at around 400awhp. I had over 500 on my last b5 and it didnt bust. was I the lucky one?

I blew 7 on my B6. I know many B5ers that have broken them with ~300whp.

GrapeBandit
07-24-2014, 11:19 AM
I blew 7 on my B6. I know many B5ers that have broken them with ~300whp.

7[o_o] jesus christ man. I feel for you. arent b6 tranny's weaker than b5's though? or does that only apply to the 6spd ones?

viceprp
07-24-2014, 12:12 PM
B6 3.0 6sod is a strong trans for BT application.

M-Hood
07-24-2014, 07:51 PM
Could be master/slave issue. Or maybe just needs a bleed (rear jacked up helps). Could also be a too short slave rod or release bearing.

My fx400 240mm when new released somewhere in the middle then gradually moved to the top when it started slipping. Neuspeed shifter.

We had the same issue with the Spec 240mm kit on Jakes B6 and had to rig it with a larger rod slave and that didn't help much because it was either too short causing issues getting it into gear or was too long causing the fingers to bottom out on the disk.



7[o_o] jesus christ man. I feel for you. arent b6 tranny's weaker than b5's though? or does that only apply to the 6spd ones?

The B6 5 speed is just a 01A so it is in the same boat as the B5 A4 1.8t 5 speed. The B6 6 speed transmissions are stronger then the 01A, they are some what based on the 01E transmission design. Doctor had no problems with his 6 speed transmission in his B7 1.8t and he was pushing a PTE 6262 up to 43psi.

Seerlah
07-24-2014, 08:11 PM
Where in the North East are you? There are a fair amount of us scattered through this region (BT, including myself) who I'm sure would not mind taking a look at your car.

GrapeBandit
07-24-2014, 08:24 PM
We had the same issue with the Spec 240mm kit on Jakes B6 and had to rig it with a larger rod slave and that didn't help much because it was either too short causing issues getting it into gear or was too long causing the fingers to bottom out on the disk.




The B6 5 speed is just a 01A so it is in the same boat as the B5 A4 1.8t 5 speed. The B6 6 speed transmissions are stronger then the 01A, they are some what based on the 01E transmission design. Doctor had no problems with his 6 speed transmission in his B7 1.8t and he was pushing a PTE 6262 up to 43psi.

so would you say shit starts to break in the trans at around 400awho in the 01A?

redline380
07-25-2014, 12:52 AM
so would you say shit starts to break in the trans at around 400awho in the 01A?

really depends how you drive it. I never launch my car and rarely shift quickly. I'm only at 320hp/280tq so I expect it to last a long time.

2001BTA4
07-25-2014, 08:23 AM
Why are you running a .48?

Only the people @ 034 motorsports know this



we would love you help you out. don't panic. we are going to need more information.

What are your boost settings? timing advance? Post up some logs so we can see the ECU working first. then we can back track and see if its something mechanical.

22psi, I have Uni 630cc file not sure of timing advance. I have Vag.com tool but I have never done a log. Any good threads you can point me towards? Im starting to panic pretty good here. Im out of budget and Im not so sure that 034 would swap turbos if I could prove that its not right for this setup. I want to be sure its the turbo before I go to them.

Great so SPEC has quality issues... I always pick the good ones. I've had SPEC in 4 different performance cars now but I have never had trouble with their clutches. I did search on clutches for this car before I bought it. But its so hard to figure out who to believe, one guy swears by it the other hates it. So i went on past experiences.

So I contacted 034 told them my goal and they put a "Kit" together for me for that goal. Sent me the parts and I put it together. I work on all my cars and this is my 4th project. Its not rocket science. Im not reinventing the wheel. Just going with proven combos. Reinventing the wheel costs to much for my wallet. I choose 034 because I was impressed by there shop cars. they are one of the big players in the b5 a4 market. Now I wish I would of gone local but thats a different story.

GrapeBandit
07-25-2014, 08:29 AM
really depends how you drive it. I never launch my car and rarely shift quickly. I'm only at 320hp/280tq so I expect it to last a long time.

I plan to go BT again, hopefully before the end of the year. I had a b5 from like 05-09 2L gt35r that had around 500awhp and never had a trans issue. I only ask about this now since someone told me our 01A's give out around 400awhp, which is news to me. I guess I was lucky with my other car[confused]

chris164935
07-25-2014, 09:21 AM
22psi, I have Uni 630cc file not sure of timing advance. I have Vag.com tool but I have never done a log. Any good threads you can point me towards? Im starting to panic pretty good here. Im out of budget and Im not so sure that 034 would swap turbos if I could prove that its not right for this setup. I want to be sure its the turbo before I go to them.

Great so SPEC has quality issues... I always pick the good ones. I've had SPEC in 4 different performance cars now but I have never had trouble with their clutches. I did search on clutches for this car before I bought it. But its so hard to figure out who to believe, one guy swears by it the other hates it. So i went on past experiences.

So I contacted 034 told them my goal and they put a "Kit" together for me for that goal. Sent me the parts and I put it together. I work on all my cars and this is my 4th project. Its not rocket science. Im not reinventing the wheel. Just going with proven combos. Reinventing the wheel costs to much for my wallet. I choose 034 because I was impressed by there shop cars. they are one of the big players in the b5 a4 market. Now I wish I would of gone local but thats a different story.
I'm not sure what all you have done yet in terms of diagnosing, so I'm just gonna start simple with the basics. Are there any DTCs stored? If so, try and fix those issues first. Pull the spark plugs; inspect them for lean and/or rich conditions. Do a pressure test of your intercooler setup to see if there are any leaks. Do you have a windeband setup with gauge (if you're looking for 400hp, you definitely should)? If not, I highly recommend getting one, then see what your readings are during spool up and once full boost is reached. Any exhaust leaks between the head and turbo maybe? Is 22 psi a confirmed number from a boost gauge?

I had a SPEC Stage 3+ clutch (wasn't a 240mm kit though) that ran fairly well. Obviously, the engagement point was a different feel than stock, but that is to be expected. I have heard both good and bad as well when it comes to SPEC, however, my experience with them was a positive one. There is always the option of discussing your issue with SPEC, I hear they are usually pretty helpful if you have an issue.

GrapeBandit
07-25-2014, 10:08 AM
SPEC
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh336/palehorse44/MontyPythonRunAway.jpg

M-Hood
07-25-2014, 11:45 AM
so would you say shit starts to break in the trans at around 400awho in the 01A?

No because it could happen at below 4000whp or could be perfectly fine for years while making over 400whp.


I drag raced my 01A for 8 years (2000-2008) before I started having problems, the last few years during that time I was making 550-570whp and running 10's. My problems with the 01A didn't start up till I was making over 600whp and last year I plenty of 11's and high 10's at high elevation on a used junk yard 01A transmission that I bought for $250.


This dyno pull and time slip that was done with my original 01A 5 speed transmission.
http://px6.streetfire.net/0001/82/72/1962827_600.jpg


http://px6.streetfire.net/0001/09/24/1959042_600.jpg
That transmission finally let go It finally let go on a dyno after doing more then 10 straight pulls trying to figure out a misfire issue.

GrapeBandit
07-25-2014, 11:51 AM
No because it could happen at below 4000whp or could be perfectly fine for years while making over 400whp.


I drag raced my 01A for 8 years (2000-2008) before I started having problems, the last few years during that time I was making 550-570whp and running 10's. My problems with the 01A didn't start up till I was making over 600whp and last year I plenty of 11's and high 10's at high elevation on a used junk yard 01A transmission that I bought for $250.
so in other words its hit and miss. I have the trans in my car, and my trans from my other b5. the spare trans has 35xxx miles on it and it has hardened syncros and hardened gears. it cost me 2k to get done. the only reason I didnt sell it when I parted the car is who is going to believe it had only 35xxx miles, hardened syncros/gears, and I would have never gotten what I put into it. so its sitting in the garage waiting for one of two things to happen, A) trans blows in my b5 now, or B) use for future BT build

M-Hood
07-25-2014, 01:17 PM
so in other words its hit and miss. I have the trans in my car, and my trans from my other b5. the spare trans has 35xxx miles on it and it has hardened syncros and hardened gears. it cost me 2k to get done. the only reason I didnt sell it when I parted the car is who is going to believe it had only 35xxx miles, hardened syncros/gears, and I would have never gotten what I put into it. so its sitting in the garage waiting for one of two things to happen, A) trans blows in my b5 now, or B) use for future BT build

I tried treated gears when I rebuilt my orginal 01A, but I went with a taller 1st/2nd gear which made things even worse since it put me even higher into the torque going into 3rd and that thing let go the first time I had the car making full power again.

I would suggest using a flow control valve to reduce some of the torque shock, you can always play around with the different jets to figure out what works best for you on the street.

I have blown 3 transmissions in the last 2 years, but 1 of them was my hybrid and the other 2 were completely stock.

GrapeBandit
07-25-2014, 08:57 PM
I tried treated gears when I rebuilt my orginal 01A, but I went with a taller 1st/2nd gear which made things even worse since it put me even higher into the torque going into 3rd and that thing let go the first time I had the car making full power again.

I would suggest using a flow control valve to reduce some of the torque shock, you can always play around with the different jets to figure out what works best for you on the street.

I have blown 3 transmissions in the last 2 years, but 1 of them was my hybrid and the other 2 were completely stock.
yea, it may have been a bad idea to put a taller 1&2 gear in your car because like you said, it put you more into the tq range going into 3rd(assuming that it was indeed your 3rd gear that busted).

whats this flow control valve you are talking about? im not familiar with that.

you made more power on 110 than q16[confused]

Seerlah
07-25-2014, 09:13 PM
http://www.ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=130&categoryId=2

gmx
07-26-2014, 12:35 AM
I am having major issues just shifting from 1st to 2nd unless I give it heaps of time to disengage the clutch. It's like it will hesitate/shake as soon as I bang in 2nd, THEN go. And I'm nowhere near that power level.
It's all about how it's treated...

2001BTA4
07-26-2014, 06:43 AM
SPEC
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh336/palehorse44/MontyPythonRunAway.jpg

thats a funny movie. I havent had issues with one yet. Which one do you like?

GrapeBandit
07-26-2014, 06:51 AM
thats a funny movie. I havent had issues with one yet. Which one do you like?

southbend ftw. spec is a nightmare all around, from the product to the customer service and back

2001BTA4
07-28-2014, 09:34 AM
so an update on the saga. I was going to get my alignment. It was 40 miles from my house so I actually decided to use the cruise control for once. SO what I found was that up hill the boost gauge bounces from about 8 vac to 2 psi. Back and forth. Down hill: if you ever towed a trailer you know what im saying. When your towing you get this pushing feeling on and off. well thats what it feels like down hill any ideas??? also one day in traffic i was in first gear and the car started bucking at 1300rpm like i have a cam or something.

I do have 20-22 vac at idle and when I let off the pedal.

So now coming home I dont know what happened all of a sudden. For the alignment I brought the boost down to 10psi. No joy rides on my car lol. So I had to stop like 6 times on the way back to bring the psi back to 22. And it took more turns then before. So on my 6th stop I finally go 20psi out of it, and when I did I heard this wierd air spitting noise from the front drivers side. Kind of like when I forgot to zip tie the port on the turbo housing and it blew off. So I will try to do a boost leak check today. I would be relieved if this was the prob. I do have t bolt clamps and hoses from czracing. their hoses might not take 25psi. I think if anything a hose blew making this noise but I dont think it will solve my power issue.

This kit 034 put together for me had no dyno sheet to back it up. For a long time before and after buying it I hounded them to find a dyno for me with a a4 1.8. They couldnt, but assured me it would do the trick. Until I can prove its the kit fault I wont contact them.

2001BTA4
07-28-2014, 09:36 AM
southbend ftw. spec is a nightmare all around, from the product to the customer service and back

Ive found bad stuff about them too. I dont know what to think. The shop that finished my exhaust says they all suck and clutch net is the way to go.

GrapeBandit
07-28-2014, 10:18 AM
Ive found bad stuff about them too. I dont know what to think. The shop that finished my exhaust says they all suck and clutch net is the way to go.

I looked into clutchnet a few years back. when I spoke to andy at southbend he swore the dumb russians at clutchnet have no clue what they were doing, and that their pressure plate ratings were lies. dont know if that was just andy trying to get a sale, or if he was telling the truth

M-Hood
07-28-2014, 10:43 AM
yea, it may have been a bad idea to put a taller 1&2 gear in your car because like you said, it put you more into the tq range going into 3rd(assuming that it was indeed your 3rd gear that busted).

whats this flow control valve you are talking about? im not familiar with that.

you made more power on 110 than q16[confused]

Yeah 3rd gear would just disappear when I went to go into it while making a good run thru 2nd gear. Problem I have been having lately is that 3rd gear will actually let go a split second after I was already in 3rd gear, basically just letting to because of the amount of torque being made.

The flow control valve helps slow down the engagement of the clutch by slowing down the fluid when it is being pushed back toward the master cylinder. This slows down the slave cylinder.

No it is the other way around. I made 580whp on 110 and 629whp on Q16, that was on a single 044 pump running out of fuel on both runs. After that I added 2 Bosch 044 pumps and a surge tank since the car was leaning out to 14:1 during full boost at that power level. My last time on a dyno here in AZ I made 650whp on 110 with my HTA3586r on a much lower reading dyno, the other dyno sheet with the 580whp and 630whp was with a standard GT3582r. I have yet to put my car on the dyno with the HTA3586 running on Q16.

2001BTA4
07-29-2014, 04:36 PM
I looked into clutchnet a few years back. when I spoke to andy at southbend he swore the dumb russians at clutchnet have no clue what they were doing, and that their pressure plate ratings were lies. dont know if that was just andy trying to get a sale, or if he was telling the truth

so whats a person to choose.

So today I finally did a compression check with a Actron kit. got some low numbers. But I saw on another thread that the same thing happened to someone else. Then they tried on a Snap On kit and the numbers were higher. Well I dont have a Snap On kit so these were the numbers:

Front of car


cyl 1 150, 150
2 149, 149
3 140,140
4 145, 144

So thats both times I tried it.

here are some pictures of the car and spark plugs, # 4 is dirtier then the rest but had good numbers

http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae200/kermit347/P1040673.jpg

#3 cyl
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae200/kermit347/P1040675.jpg

the car

http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae200/kermit347/P1040682.jpg

I have yet to do a log. So good compression, No CEL or stored codes. The car does 22psi and holds it. So the power should be there. Had another run this time with a 2010 style Jetta GLX. Was super hard to beat. Short of tring another turbo on how can I rule the turbo out? Or does anyone in CT have a spare turbo I can try ?

GrapeBandit
07-29-2014, 04:48 PM
^have you seen the price of clutchnet lately? wtf, pretty expensive id say.lol
idk why you say your car feels so slow, you are boosting 22psi and holding it. do you have a 2' exhaust? lol and why do you have .48ar on that turbo[headbang]

2001BTA4
07-29-2014, 05:12 PM
3" all the way. Ask 034 they put the combo together. Im in the process of emailing them. I know those prices are crazy. This is what puzzles me. Im holding 22 psi, and more if I want ( i keep it at 22 because more doesnt really help much. ) Im not crazy LOL. Something is wrong. Im not sure what else to try?

viceprp
07-29-2014, 05:16 PM
What size is your IC plumbing? Exhaust dimensions? Boost doesn't mean much with no timing so what are you seeing? The .48 should spool up quick but choke out up top. My car ran 18psi the entire time at WF but fuel and timing were changed since I was a little rich and I gained 12mph.

GrapeBandit
07-29-2014, 05:20 PM
3" all the way. Ask 034 they put the combo together. Im in the process of emailing them. I know those prices are crazy. This is what puzzles me. Im holding 22 psi, and more if I want ( i keep it at 22 because more doesnt really help much. ) Im not crazy LOL. Something is wrong. Im not sure what else to try?

haha. I was kidding about the 2" exhaust..there has to be something holding yojr power back. maybe your timing is off, thats why viceprp said to log it.

viceprp
07-29-2014, 06:03 PM
Give us your entire parts list

2001BTA4
07-30-2014, 04:20 AM
I will post a complete parts list today. When I get home.

TheAussie
07-30-2014, 05:55 AM
This is Audizine don't you know everyone is putting down over 400?

2001BTA4
08-01-2014, 05:55 PM
This is Audizine don't you know everyone is putting down over 400?

except for me. Even though I should have it. I paid for BT power but I have slightly above ko3 chipped power.

Slowly im starting to lose it. Im becoming puzzled about what is the problem I have. I have boost leak checked, I had a small leak at the boost gauge hose. Fixed that. I did compression check and the numbers came in spec with manual. And I didnt even floor the throttle while cranking, I forgot. So I checked the cam and belt timing today. It looks to me that its ok, here are the pictures. I counted 16 pins for the cam chain. Let me know what you guys think. I was really hoping that my timing was off. I still have to do a log, but not before I figure out how to. Im stumped. Ideas?

http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae200/kermit347/P1040686.jpg

http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae200/kermit347/P1040687.jpg
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae200/kermit347/P1040689.jpg
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae200/kermit347/P1040692.jpg
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae200/kermit347/P1040693.jpg
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae200/kermit347/P1040694.jpg
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae200/kermit347/P1040694.jpg
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae200/kermit347/P1040697.jpg
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae200/kermit347/P1040698.jpg

GrapeBandit
08-01-2014, 06:09 PM
I am just as lost as you. your cam timing is spot on. You have 16 rollors in between, and the notches are dead on. weird man. I hope you get it figured out. I know it must be frustrating to dump all that money into the car and not be satisfied.

2001BTA4
08-03-2014, 01:25 PM
so a buddy of mine that was working with Frankin turbo guy came over to day and verified the timing on cam and belt. They are both good. He showed me how to log too. So I will take the blocks M-Hood suggested and do logs on those.

N75 and n249 are both connected to resisters. 034 said I dont need them.

Poopie
08-03-2014, 01:33 PM
Log your iats and ignition timing. That may give a clue onto poor performance. I want to guess it could be a tuning issue.

M-Hood
08-03-2014, 03:22 PM
so a buddy of mine that was working with Frankin turbo guy came over to day and verified the timing on cam and belt. They are both good. He showed me how to log too. So I will take the blocks M-Hood suggested and do logs on those.

N75 and n249 are both connected to resisters. 034 said I dont need them.

So you have a resistor connected to the N75 harness plug instead of just having it plugged right into the N75 itself?

demonmk2
08-03-2014, 03:57 PM
Are you running maf or not?
Its very odd they chose .48 for your setup.

2001BTA4
08-04-2014, 07:07 AM
I hope its not a tuning issue. John from UNI doesnt think so

M-Hood:

Yes the n75 is not plugged in. Just a resister is connected to it to avoid CEL. UNI said if I code out anything like this or emissions related it wont pass readyness and will fall emissions. Y is this the prob you think. 034 said I dont need the diverter or n75 valve

the SAI and n249 also have resisters.

its a MAF file. They said .48 will spool fast. oddly enough they had no dyno with a b5 a4 to prove it. though they said it was a VERY common setup at their shop. Putting down 400+awhp on mustang dyno. If i ever get this going right I will post the dyno.

just realized i forgot to post the engine/turbo setup parts list:

So the engine build is nothing special. IE rods stock every thing else: pistons, compression, cams. when I first contacted 034 for the build. I said I want a low 12 high 11sec car, 400 to 450whp. He made a kit for me. CEA 5558 turbo, spa exhaust man, 034 BT intercooler kit with 2.5" pipes. Have 3" exhaust from turbo back, high flow metal cat, 2.0 coil conversation from ecs. I wanted a proven kit so I would be stuck trying to fix all the bugs. Wasnt trying to be most powerful a4 just fast enough to hang stealth with all these fast cars out today.

GrapeBandit
08-04-2014, 07:24 AM
I hope its not a tuning issue. John from UNI doesnt think so

M-Hood:

Yes the n75 is not plugged in. Just a resister is connected to it to avoid CEL. UNI said if I code out anything like this or emissions related it wont pass readyness and will fall emissions. Y is this the prob you think. 034 said I dont need the diverter or n75 valve

the SAI and n249 also have resisters.

its a MAF file. They said .48 will spool fast. oddly enough they had no dyno with a b5 a4 to prove it. though they said it was a VERY common setup at their shop. Putting down 400+awhp on mustang dyno. If i ever get this going right I will post the dyno.

no DV? you have BOV?
if you have a resistor for the N75, you can complet2remove it from your engine bay. just plug the hole in the TIP

2001BTA4
08-04-2014, 07:54 AM
i have a ARP R1 diverter.

not sure what you mean? the N75 valve is on my work bench. I have a top mounted turbo with custom air filter tube 3" alum. Same size as MAF.

Was 034 wrong? do I need the N75 valve and n249?

ricekikr
08-04-2014, 09:14 AM
N75 and n249 are both connected to resisters. 034 said I dont need them.

How much boost are you running?

demonmk2
08-04-2014, 09:33 AM
I'm not a betting man but if I was, I would bet that .48 is part of your power making problems.
With everything else you have it just seems like a bottle neck type thing.

demonmk2
08-04-2014, 09:34 AM
I think he stated 22psi

Poopie
08-04-2014, 09:42 AM
depending on how you eliminated the emissions components and n75, it may prevent the ecu for correcting the long term and short term fuel trims.

we will definitely need to see some logs

GrapeBandit
08-04-2014, 09:56 AM
I'm not a betting man but if I was, I would bet that .48 is part of your power making problems.
With everything else you have it just seems like a bottle neck type thing.

and your throttle body if its not upgraded. what engine code and throttle body do you have?

Poopie
08-04-2014, 01:36 PM
How does John from Unitronics know its not a tuning issue? Did you present him with any logs?

You can make 400awhp on a stock throttle body.

The .48ar turbine housing could be choking you but we really need to see logs.

i've seen some 50 trim 1.8ts with .48 a/r turbines and they did like 320 fwhp on a dynojet at 22 psi. You should ditch the hotside.

M-Hood
08-04-2014, 04:20 PM
How does John from Unitronics know its not a tuning issue? Did you present him with any logs?

You can make 400awhp on a stock throttle body.

The .48ar turbine housing could be choking you but we really need to see logs.

i've seen some 50 trim 1.8ts with .48 a/r turbines and they did like 320 fwhp on a dynojet at 22 psi. You should ditch the hotside.


You sure can, I was making about 480whp on a stock AEB throttle body with stock intake manifold.

WESLIFE
08-04-2014, 04:30 PM
This is a very informative thread.

WESLIFE
08-04-2014, 04:31 PM
You sure can, I was making about 480whp on a stock AEB throttle body with stock intake manifold.

Do you know the size of these throttle bodies?
1) obd1 vr6.
2) obd2 vr6.
3) 1998 Audi a4 2.8 throttle body.
Any info would be highly appreciated. Thanks.

demonmk2
08-04-2014, 04:34 PM
You sure can, I was making about 480whp on a stock AEB throttle body with stock intake manifold.

That's unbelievable...
I believe you but that's still unbelievable. Lol

That's like the tiniest throttle body you can have on a 1.8t.

demonmk2
08-04-2014, 04:35 PM
Do you know the size of these throttle bodies?
1) obd1 vr6.
2) obd2 vr6.
3) 1998 Audi a4 2.8 throttle body.
Any info would be highly appreciated. Thanks.

I think they're 65-68 mm

demonmk2
08-04-2014, 04:47 PM
You sure can, I was making about 480whp on a stock AEB throttle body with stock intake manifold.

What size maf were you running. I know for the aeb's there are some BT tunes out there
But use 4" Maf ( promaf) to be able to make 400whp

demonmk2
08-04-2014, 04:54 PM
If you go a different route on your tuning ( off the shelf ) I recommend
United motorsports.
I'm bias though :-)

GrapeBandit
08-04-2014, 06:27 PM
aeb throttle body flap is 50mm...all other 1.8t's are 58mm..
DBC v6 is 65mm, just got mine in the mail today...lol

Gumby
08-04-2014, 06:47 PM
Is a tune change needed for dbc cars when you step up in throttle body size? I'm dbw, but I always wondered how that worked on the older cars.

demonmk2
08-05-2014, 01:24 AM
I think dbw cars can go up in size with no problems but the DBC cars may very with what
Tune you have. Its not that its not tuned for it,it just works....sometimes.

M-Hood
08-05-2014, 01:02 PM
What size maf were you running. I know for the aeb's there are some BT tunes out there
But use 4" Maf ( promaf) to be able to make 400whp

I wasn't running a maf at that time seeing I had already switched to a 034 IIc stand alone at that point.



That's unbelievable...
I believe you but that's still unbelievable. Lol

That's like the tiniest throttle body you can have on a 1.8t.


Don't need a really large TB to make big hp, problem is most people think they do but they don't. For most a 65mm TB is large enough, I switched to a 65mm TB way back in 2007 which helped put me at 570awhp and still have that VR6 65mm TB in my car at over 650awhp. There are really high hp Audi cars that are running a 70mm, like Aaron with the 1.8t drag coupe that ran low 9's.

2001BTA4
08-07-2014, 05:37 PM
update coming tomorrow

viceprp
08-08-2014, 06:49 PM
Buddy made over 700whp on his stock vr6 TB.

WESLIFE
08-09-2014, 07:19 AM
Buddy made over 700whp on his stock vr6 TB.

Nice! Your bud has a faster car than you I would suppose. By the way it's been a few years since you started your build. What throttle body are you using and how fast/not is your car at the moment? I bet you're in the 11's by now!

Seerlah
08-09-2014, 08:08 AM
You need:

-different sized turbine housing
-built head
-different tune (custom)

demonmk2
08-09-2014, 06:39 PM
I'm curious about the off the shelf tune UM sales that are supposedly good for 400whp
With a promaf
I'll find out soon enough on my end.. :-)

viceprp
08-10-2014, 06:08 AM
Billet 70mm but I'll be swapping it out for something different with the IE manifold.

Car just started up not too long ago. Not registered/inspected so I haven't driven it much. Car trapped 107 on it's 2nd pass down the track. Doesn't even have a street tune on her yet. Just a conservative 18lb tune. Looking for low 12's this season before upgrading the head over winter.

WESLIFE
08-10-2014, 07:12 AM
Billet 70mm but I'll be swapping it out for something different with the IE manifold.

Car just started up not too long ago. Not registered/inspected so I haven't driven it much. Car trapped 107 on it's 2nd pass down the track. Doesn't even have a street tune on her yet. Just a conservative 18lb tune. Looking for low 12's this season before upgrading the head over winter.
What did it trap on the first pass and what were your ET's?

viceprp
08-10-2014, 07:27 AM
Well the very first pass with seized up brakes?! 65mph... Once I replaced the master cyl and continued having brake problems 15.xx @ 95. (Idle tune, very rich). My quickest was the second pass with a 2.6 60', 14.2 @ 107. No tack so I am basing my launches on hearing. I was way off with a 3200 launch. My 2.0 60' only yielded me a 14.6 @ 106 (locked out of second til my rpm came down, 2gear rev limiter hit). My final pass was a full tree to a pro tree switch. No notice given to the drivers. 2.8 60' 3k launch. 1-2 shift made my Headunit and hazard trim fall off, 3rd gear was fun with obvious Headunit on top of my hand and my TB coupling popped off. 14.8 @ 85 I believe.

Obviously I need more seat time. Was a 3 year wait for this car to be where it is. I gave up on trying several times til I found Kevin through my best friend. Also, my rear diff mount is stock so I believe I'm getting locked out if gears due to some flex. Once I figure out my phantom brake problem, I'll have a street tune and some more drive time. DBC vs DBW is a feel to get used too. All my Audi's have been DBW so the instant throttle response is awesome but foreign.

WESLIFE
08-10-2014, 09:35 AM
Your should improve once you've sorted out all of your problems.

M-Hood
08-10-2014, 09:47 AM
Buddy made over 700whp on his stock vr6 TB.

Based on what I made the last time I was on the dyno I should be well over 700awhp pushing nearly 40psi out of my HTA3586r and that is with the 65mm VR6 TB. I am looking to push the boost up higher but plan on spooling up the turbo slightly later to reduce the torque in the mid range.

viceprp
08-10-2014, 10:19 AM
Based on what I made the last time I was on the dyno I should be well over 700awhp pushing nearly 40psi out of my HTA3586r and that is with the 65mm VR6 TB. I am looking to push the boost up higher but plan on spooling up the turbo slightly later to reduce the torque in the mid range.

It's on a GTI but others have over 900whp on OBII TB.

demonmk2
08-11-2014, 04:34 PM
update coming tomorrow


??

BlueBoostedAudi
08-14-2014, 07:50 PM
I had similar problem before. The problem for me was the gas breather canister was clogged and only figured it out because it started to make me pump gas like 20 cents at a time b4 the fuel would start to spit back at me so i took the canister out and cleaned it then filled up at the gas station fine afterwards and got on it and finally felt some good power

2001BTA4
08-15-2014, 04:24 PM
ok so Finally a small update. Ive been working crazy hours and on top of that im moving too and so I have very little time. So I made a log with blocks 003, 020, and 115. I dont know how to post it because Its not a picture and photo bucket wont allow me to up load it. So till some one clues me in on how to share this log I will take 2 screen shots. One of the beginning another getting into it and one of a spot where i stepped on it. it was a 28 mile drive home

http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae200/kermit347/A4log1.jpg
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae200/kermit347/A4log2.jpg
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae200/kermit347/A4log3.jpg

Poopie
08-15-2014, 08:51 PM
Hard to follow. Upload the file to google or Dropbox and make it public.

Do a 3rd gear pull from a low rpm like 3000 to 6500 rpm.

Poopie
08-15-2014, 08:55 PM
It looks like your turbo is taking forever to spool also. Maybe your map sensor is shot? It looks like you are hitting 22 psi at like 5500 rpm. That's very late

2001BTA4
08-16-2014, 08:32 AM
ok I will do some 3rd gear pulls. I was going home yesterday at 6pm and didnt want to fight the traffic. Thanks for the posting infor here it is:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pyoHwfPR7-OBmTvQ07E0k3YZSV6NoE1m8A-9uem2RiQ/edit?usp=sharing

So am I getting timing?

this car should haul ass. No real power till after 4000rpm. And even at max psi nothing crazy. I'd say by the seat of my pants low 14s.

again N75 valve and N249 are connected to resisters other wise CEL comes up. And 034 said I dont need them, N75 and N249.

So where am I losing the power? 034 was puzzled they didnt know what to tell me. They threw me over to Unitronic. John at Uni was waiting for a log so he hasnt been able to comment yet.

Ive got fuel, 630 injectors, tune, compression, all supporting mods ( exhaust, FMIC 2.5", and good belt and cam timing check prior pictures ) So what am I missing?

I have resisters on: SAI, N75, and N249 the one that goes to the diverter.

viceprp
08-16-2014, 09:40 AM
What you can do in the mean time. Unplug the resisters and take a drive. Who cares about getting a CEL. Try it, report back.

BlueBoostedAudi
08-17-2014, 08:59 AM
Have u looked for boost leaks? Also check the cam cap and make sure it is the right one

M-Hood
08-18-2014, 09:50 AM
What you can do in the mean time. Unplug the resisters and take a drive. Who cares about getting a CEL. Try it, report back.

He should plug the N75 valve back in since the ECU tends to get confused when it sees that it is not plugged in.




2001BTA4 - As for the data log, looks like timing is pretty soft as the turbo is spooling up. What MAF housing and MAF sensor are you running?

MAF readings look to be in the high 3's and low 4's at idle and the highest reading I saw on there was 260.56 at 6520 rpm.

2001BTA4
08-18-2014, 01:05 PM
i still have it the N75 valve. should i follow this:

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p276/superman_006/parralle.jpg

what about the n249? not really important?

i finally made a 3rd gear pull, for some reason it came out different, not sure what I did wrong. 003 and 115 blocks

0.27 ;2880
1.17 ;3120
2.08 ;3400
2.98 ;3640
3.88 ;4000
4.78 ;4440
5.70 ;4960
6.60 ;5520
7.51 ;6040
8.41 ;6520
9.32 ;6920
10.22 ;5920
11.13 ;4360


stock oem MAF, in TT225 housing.

thanks for looking at this M-Hood and others. Im really on the edge of losing it.

M-Hood
08-18-2014, 02:11 PM
No you don't have to hook up the lines to the N75, just plug it into the harness so the ECU sees that it is there. That is all you have to do if you are using something else to control how much boost your making.

Poopie
08-18-2014, 02:54 PM
Does it feel faster with the maf unplugged?

2001BTA4
08-19-2014, 04:23 AM
I have not tried unplugging the MAF but I can do that next. As far as the N75 valave... well i put it in yesterday but no difference... bummer

I can take a picture to post to make sure it was the N75 and in the right plug.

Ill redo that 3rd gear pull. Or should i?

gmx
08-19-2014, 05:06 AM
Doesn't 034 have a dyno?
I'd be asking to put it on, then fix it/get it right. You shouldn't have to fix their fuck-ups.

Is load % in group 3, relative to the throttle opening percentage?
If so, take a log where you're flat from 3000-6000rpm at least



0.27 ;2880
1.17 ;3120
2.08 ;3400
2.98 ;3640
3.88 ;4000
4.78 ;4440
5.70 ;4960
6.60 ;5520
7.51 ;6040
8.41 ;6520
9.32 ;6920

This just looks like timestamp and rpm???

Someone chime in with the block for lambda since he is OEM wideband ECU (edit: block 031)



Lines 399- 403 of the google spreadsheet
Timestamp RPM MAF g/s Load BTDC Timing KW
380.86 3360 71.17 100 18.8 381.16 0 0 0 0
381.77 3680 88.5 100 13.5 382.07 0 0 0 0
382.67 4040 128.64 100 9 382.97 0 0 0 0
383.58 4600 206.5 100 9.8 383.88 6 6 6 7.5
384.48 5200 227.69 100 9 384.78 6 6 6 6



You are pulling timing after peak boost(4300rpm) it seems.

MetalMan
08-19-2014, 07:57 AM
Doesn't 034 have a dyno?
I'd be asking to put it on, then fix it/get it right. You shouldn't have to fix their fuck-ups.


From what I've read, it sounds like 034 simply sold him the stuff for this build and he installed all of it, since he is across the country from 034.

M-Hood
08-19-2014, 08:32 AM
Doesn't 034 have a dyno?
I'd be asking to put it on, then fix it/get it right. You shouldn't have to fix their fuck-ups.

Is load % in group 3, relative to the throttle opening percentage?
If so, take a log where you're flat from 3000-6000rpm at least



This just looks like timestamp and rpm???

Someone chime in with the block for lambda since he is OEM wideband ECU (edit: block 031)




You are pulling timing after peak boost(4300rpm) it seems.



He lives on the east coast (northeast) while 034 is on the west coat. He just bought stuff from 034 and installed it on the car.


Yes the reading that says "load %" is throttle %, not sure why it says load when it should say Throttle Angle.


He wants some timing pull but looks like it doesn't start pulling timing till well over 4k rpm or even higher, so the timing might be a bit soft down low. He really needs to do a complete gear pull of 3rd gear.

2001BTA4
08-19-2014, 10:51 AM
ok so complete gear pull from what rpm? blocks? 03-20-115? or something else. is this something i can figure out? if the turbo to exhaust was leaking would that mess with the timing? i did cooper rtv not metal gasket in between.

zandrew
08-19-2014, 11:31 AM
ok so complete gear pull from what rpm? blocks? 03-20-115? or something else. is this something i can figure out? if the turbo to exhaust was leaking would that mess with the timing? i did cooper rtv not metal gasket in between.

If your exhaust is leaking pre turbo it will cause the car to feel like a dog. I doubt RTV will hold up to the temps of the turbine and exhaust housing anyway. Matter of fact I know it won't hold up.

http://www.grainger.com/product/3DPT6?gclid=CjwKEAjw68ufBRDt0Zmrn4W_8AwSJADcjp1c6D FJ80XfysDbUsg5i0VNAsOOlo0xzag61MXt-xcOkhoC1qrw_wcB&cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Adhesives,%20Sealants%20and%20Tape-_-Thread%20and%20Gasket%20Sealants-_-3DPT6&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=3DPT6&ef_id=U6yA2gAAAM8m8S40:20140819182949:s

Its range is up to 700f. Nowhere good enough bro. I would either run no gasket with lapped mating surfaces or a copper gasket. Depending on what size your mating flange is...

2001BTA4
08-20-2014, 07:17 AM
The last turbo kit I bought was for my V8 toy car. It was from B&G turbo. So the guy there was really cool and informative. He told me how much power id make at what psi. And he was right about my whole build. Any way when I got the kit there were no gaskets. I called him and he told me that he doesnt believe in gaskets for turbo and exhaust manifolds. They end up leaking. Use copper rtv on these he said. And I did and got the power he said I would. So is he right? I dont know theres more then one way to do things, everyone has their own way. I do have the gasket for the 5558. Should I put it on? Should I put spray on copper rtv? Or just plain metal gasket and nothing else.

I dont know if this will solve anything. Its not that I dont build boost. The car just doesnt make any real power. John at Unitronic must be really busy no words yet. Im leaving to visit family in 3 weeks and relocating at the same time. I dont know if I will have time for the car. I have a oil leak either rear main or oil pan. Nor I or the alignment shop could determine exactly. So in about a month I will pull the motor again and change both. i'll make another 3rd gear log though and maybe a video, same blocks? 003, 020, and 115?. Not sure what to do next, totally lost here.

M-Hood
08-20-2014, 07:46 AM
The last turbo kit I bought was for my V8 toy car. It was from B&G turbo. So the guy there was really cool and informative. He told me how much power id make at what psi. And he was right about my whole build. Any way when I got the kit there were no gaskets. I called him and he told me that he doesnt believe in gaskets for turbo and exhaust manifolds. They end up leaking. Use copper rtv on these he said. And I did and got the power he said I would. So is he right? I dont know theres more then one way to do things, everyone has their own way. I do have the gasket for the 5558. Should I put it on? Should I put spray on copper rtv? Or just plain metal gasket and nothing else.

I dont know if this will solve anything. Its not that I dont build boost. The car just doesnt make any real power. John at Unitronic must be really busy no words yet. Im leaving to visit family in 3 weeks and relocating at the same time. I dont know if I will have time for the car. I have a oil leak either rear main or oil pan. Nor I or the alignment shop could determine exactly. So in about a month I will pull the motor again and change both. i'll make another 3rd gear log though and maybe a video, same blocks? 003, 020, and 115?. Not sure what to do next, totally lost here.


When going gasketless you must make sure both surfaces are perfectly flat since the gasket is what fills in those gaps. If you have leaks at the turbo to manifold flange then use the gasket that was included or remove the manifold/housing to have them machined perfectly flat since they never seem to be flat even when new.

2001BTA4
08-20-2014, 08:03 AM
ill try to squeeze in putting the gasket on. The manifold to cylinder head does have a single metal gasket. So on this turbo to mani gasket? Pain, copper RTV, or spray copper?

M-Hood
08-20-2014, 08:18 AM
ill try to squeeze in putting the gasket on. The manifold to cylinder head does have a single metal gasket. So on this turbo to mani gasket? Pain, copper RTV, or spray copper?

just use the gasket that you got with the manifold and turbo.

2001BTA4
08-20-2014, 09:41 AM
ok plain it is. Just the metal gasket no spray or rtv. Ill try to do it this weekend. thanks so 3rd gear run and gasket installed update coming up. Fingers crossed.

BlueBoostedAudi
08-28-2014, 04:12 AM
I also have uni630 file and i dont have the sai, n75, n249 or the MAF sensors plugged in and i dont have resistors. But i do have a CEL If u run out of options try unpluging them with the resistors unplugged too. Check the three letters on the cylinder head and make sure that the cap at the end of the intake cam is the right one for ur car/ecu
I kno i swapped to a AEB head and was robbed out of power until i pulled that cover off and put my awm intake cam cap back on.
Not for sure if a worn out fuel filter could be the cause?

M-Hood
08-28-2014, 07:56 AM
I also have uni630 file and i dont have the sai, n75, n249 or the MAF sensors plugged in and i dont have resistors. But i do have a CEL If u run out of options try unpluging them with the resistors unplugged too. Check the three letters on the cylinder head and make sure that the cap at the end of the intake cam is the right one for ur car/ecu
I kno i swapped to a AEB head and was robbed out of power until i pulled that cover off and put my awm intake cam cap back on.
Not for sure if a worn out fuel filter could be the cause?

Are you talking about the cam sensor at the front of the head?

redline380
08-28-2014, 08:07 AM
Are you talking about the cam sensor at the front of the head?

no, he is talking about the cam sensor ring. AEB's only have one gap in the ring, VVT cars have a couple. The hall sensor itself is the same throughout the years

BlueBoostedAudi
08-28-2014, 09:06 AM
Exactly /\ i think awm has 3 gaps

demonmk2
11-27-2014, 09:09 AM
is that uni file unitronics or united motor sports?

nicetie
11-29-2014, 01:26 PM
I'm putting down 400hp/420tq on pump gas with a pjk04 setup with an APR tune.

Seerlah
11-29-2014, 01:28 PM
S4. You are in the A4 section.

A4Rob
11-30-2014, 05:12 AM
Spanky just put down 629 WHP in his VRT A4.

GrapeBandit
11-30-2014, 06:11 AM
Spanky just put down 629 WHP in his VRT A4.
vrt's are ill. its a beautiful choice in engine since it is a 6cyl and easy to work on since it's basically an inline design, not like working on a pain in the ass v6.

melomandn
11-30-2014, 10:24 AM
Nothing will beat haenszels vrt, 812awhp..... [drool]

viceprp
11-30-2014, 02:40 PM
Much more left in that vr6.

A4Rob
11-30-2014, 04:13 PM
Nothing will beat haenszels vrt, 812awhp..... [drool]

until Spanky tunes. This was his first pull at mid boost. He will get 800-900 out of it.

GrapeBandit
11-30-2014, 04:36 PM
Nothing will beat haenszels vrt, 812awhp..... [drool]


until Spanky tunes. This was his first pull at mid boost. He will get 800-900 out of it.

a bigger turbo or a non-avant will beat haenszels vrt/ game over.

avants are dogs, not to mention fugly

melomandn
11-30-2014, 04:44 PM
until Spanky tunes. This was his first pull at mid boost. He will get 800-900 out of it.

God damn....

I loved his thread on here but it hasnt been kept up with in awhile, tell him to post updates when he tunes it!

I didnt mean "nothing" in a literal sense, vrt's just get me excited haha

viceprp
12-01-2014, 01:28 AM
Avant are beautiful (with s4 bumpers/side skirts). Haenszels' car is also a dogbox, so it isnt a by any means slow. I would be worried about the 01E shredding gears.

M-Hood
12-01-2014, 12:39 PM
Avant are beautiful (with s4 bumpers/side skirts). Haenszels' car is also a dogbox, so it isnt a by any means slow. I would be worried about the 01E shredding gears.

From what I have seen it takes a good amount of torque to shred up the 01E gears.

A4Rob
12-01-2014, 06:08 PM
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=718485024887993

GrapeBandit
12-01-2014, 06:18 PM
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=718485024887993
vrTITS![race]

melomandn
12-01-2014, 07:30 PM
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=718485024887993

Love me some vr [up][up]

Radskull1
12-03-2014, 11:21 PM
i would love to turn my b5 into a 400+hp monster, lol i wish i knew how.

viceprp
12-04-2014, 01:18 AM
i would love to turn my b5 into a 400+hp monster, lol i wish i knew how.

Patience, research, and $,000.

B5A4coastie
04-03-2015, 02:54 AM
Back from the dead... Anyone with a GTX or EFR turbo making 400?

rodgertherabit
04-03-2015, 07:56 AM
Im running a GTX2867r, but not near the target yet. Round 300-325 on 15psi stock block.

Soon as the rods are in...game on!

mykeg6
04-03-2015, 08:54 AM
https://scontent-nrt.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10348277_10204982299775081_1861300386445103873_n.j pg?oh=89362ce17370e63eb605b74ea130a874&oe=55727AE7

viceprp
04-04-2015, 04:54 AM
Awesome numbers! I've been drooling over the new Gen2 numbers and want to pull the trigger on a 2.0 6466.

redline380
04-04-2015, 08:24 AM
Wow, that's a lot of power. I think there might be a turbo change in my future

melomandn
04-04-2015, 10:33 AM
Im running a GTX2867r, but not near the target yet. Round 300-325 on 15psi stock block.

Soon as the rods are in...game on!

325whp at 15psi?? Fuuuuu maybe it's time to get a gtx..

At what rpm do you see 15psi?