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View Full Version : DIY: B6 1.8T Dipstick Replacement



a4darkness
06-01-2010, 01:46 AM
Like so many before myself, I too fell victim to the crumbling Audi/VW dipstick. Shocker, right?

In all three of my A4's, the dipstick has failed to some degree, but not like this. The top of the stick itself completely shattered last week and the tube became compromised to the point of seeping a considerable amount of oil. So, it had to be swapped.

First, in case you're wondering, "Why the F is the dipstick make of plastic when every other one is made of metal?" Cause it's smack in between the manifold and you'd burn your fingers somethin fierce if it wasn't make of heat dispersing plastic. So the Audi engineers were doing the right thing. Downside is there's a shelf life... and then it pretty much turns to dust.

It should be noted that the dipstick in this engine holds pressure so if you go driving around all willy nilly w/out something in the tube, it just might spray oil all over your engine bay. Maybe. But I wouldn't know anything about that.

Pabblo suggested the very savvy temp solution of using tin foil which worked really well (props man). So, I origami-ed up some foil which held me over long enough to pick up the new parts.

The newer, better, superseded parts (which IIRC first appeared in the 04 Passat) are:

Dipstick
06B 115 611 M

Funnel
06B 103 663 G

These of course can be purchased at any stealership or from your friendly neighborhood forum sponsors (like DTH or Europa).

Most of you will likely find this mundane but I felt inclined to write it up as so many have faced this issue w/difficultly (where as I actually did not... hopefully it will help).

First, a good look at what we're dealing with. Although this is not the 1.8T from a B6 A4 (maybe a Corrado?) it's close enough. There she be... the damn dipstick. Take notice how it's seated on the black metal pipe protruding from the block below.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/d42bf04a.jpg


Here's a shot from inside my engine bay after I'd already cleaned up the spillage last week (non OEM filter FTL). As you can see, it's still seeping. No bueno senors.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/b4f3feee.jpg


First, I had to clean things up a bit. Since I'm surrounded by hippies here in the Bay Area, I opted for the enviro-friendly Simple Green Degreaser. Worked pretty damn good. ProTips on engine bay cleaning:

* cover the alternator and coil packs
* use a low pressure hose or 'fireman' attachment to lightly spread the water around
* be mindful of connectors and wiring
* hot water FTW
* rinse - degrease - let it sit for a bit - rinse again
* use a towel around the bay to dry things off just in case (especially the connectors on the firewall)

My engine bay is kinda starting to look nice. Well, except for the Jiffy Pop package under my manifold.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/fdc28f58.jpg


Here's the lower end of the dipstick which attaches to the metal tube. It kinda snaps into place which can make removal quite difficult.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/b7f25f24.jpg



First thing you need is some good light. I already had the belly pan removed so from the bottom, I placed my shop light just underneath the manifold area. This helped out a lot.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/8efa24db.jpg


Check it out yo, I gots neon in my engine bay.

Removal of the TB hose is likely unnecessary but I wanted a clear shot to the dipstick. But the coolant tank needs to come out. No need to disconnect anything, just unscrew the one bolt and pull up. It pops right out. Just mind the hoses and connectors.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/71a755b8.jpg


Temporary Tin Foil Origami Dipstick, you served me well. Off to the big recycling bin in the sky for you. Kind looks like a bird w/ his head goin straight up... ka kaw!

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/13e0f208.jpg


Okay, down to business. Due to it's fragility, the dipstick needs to be extracted from the lowest point. Therefore, the upper attachment needs to be cleared, so to speak. I used needle nose pliers to break away the upper clip from the metal arm piece by piece. Obviously, you don't want to drop anything in the tube so be careful (or use a smaller piece of foil to plug it).

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/13b03f56.jpg


Totally cleared away and free from the arm. Good to go.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/f88257f0.jpg


Next, holding a wide, flat head screwdriver, reach down underneath the manifold towards the lower part of the dipstick.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/b06679f2.jpg


You'll want to get both hands on the driver -> one to hold the handle, the other to pull UP against the dipstick (not push into).

Apply some pressure slowly and ... POP! It'll come right out. Done. No plastic in the pan to worry about. Yay.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/82e9612f.jpg



With the same amount of pressure it takes to snap your fingers, it would break. Hilarious really.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/2bec2676.jpg


Now to prep the new Agent Orange Dipstick Tube. Carefully work a flathead into the lower part of the attachment point. Since the arm is kinda flexible, this makes it easier to attach.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/4490fa5f.jpg


Next straighten up the arm a bit. It's flexible but don't overdo it. I'm sure some of you monkeys have wicked forearm strength... don't dial it up too hard chief.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/dd61296c.jpg


Now holding the arm w/needle nose pliers, seat the new dipstick tube both on top of the black metal tube blow and lined up with the arm. It might take a few times to get it right (up top at the arm) so don't fully seat the tube quite yet. When you do, gently push down on the dipstick from the top and then feel / look at the seat point to see it's in properly.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/20a7c271.jpg


Afterward, I gave the tube a few very light taps with my vampire stake. For some reason, this was the smallest piece of wood I could find in the garage. Weird. Oh, and towel FTW... this'll keep you from cracking the tube.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/5fad0217.jpg


And there you have it. Just gotta get my extractor cause after all this mess I'm actually due for an oil change.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/Dipstick%20Replacement/93cd54c8.jpg

ryann
07-13-2011, 09:19 AM
Thanks, the tip to remove the coolant tank made things easier. My tube broke at the very bottom so a few small pieces went in to the oil pan. I guess it's time for an early oil change. I wish I had done this before I needed to. My dipstick handle broke first which should have given me a clue.

DPDISXR4Ti
09-14-2011, 07:53 AM
A couple follow-up questions on this topic....

1) It sounds like both the funnel and dipstick itself should be replaced whenever doing this job, yes?

2) Looking at the ECS site (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/Dipstick), there are two different dipsticks and 3 different funnels. Reading this thread, I see the factory funnel has been updated in some way (how?), but I'm wondering if the after-market funnels have incorporated the same update so it's not worth the 4X greater price for the factory funnel.

old guy
11-08-2011, 04:36 PM
Here's a useful adder to the dip stick funnel removal process: Clicky click (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/393096-Tip-for-changing-your-oil-dip-stick-tube?highlight=)

CoreyRS
11-08-2011, 04:49 PM
Fletcher, you might be a genius. Thanks.

subversion
03-17-2012, 08:53 AM
Excellent DIY. I just replaced mines and it went exactly as described. I wasn't able to find an aquarium brush that would fit into the funnel, but was lucky to not drop anything down it anyhow. Also, you don't need to whack the new funnel with a hammer to secure it, the force of my thumb pressing down was enough to get it to click in.

Agro
05-04-2012, 10:05 PM
Like others, today I was taking my intake manifold off/on and i broke the dip stick tube off. It was a clean brake and I didn't see any pieces crack off. I took a flat-head and was able to pop off the piece that was on the black metal tube going in to the engine. I then looked in and i saw a little tiny tiny ring of orange plastic stuck inside. I tried to get it out and it fell in. I hope it's okay for that one tiny piece until I change my oil in another 3-4k miles. I just changed it less than 1k miles ago, Mobile-1 full synthetic.

http://www.farturator.com/amg/a4/p2.JPG

03 silverbullet
07-16-2012, 07:01 PM
Thanks for the write up, this helped me quickly find the parts on ECS.

jacobsen
02-11-2014, 03:17 PM
I'm doing this soon. Is there a seal or an O-Ring of any kind at the base of the tube? Does it just snap fit over a metal nipple?

jacobsen
02-11-2014, 03:33 PM
There is apparently a dipstick funnel, what leaks the funnel or tube?

Funnel: http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Engine/Mechanical/Oil_Pan/ES10470/

Tube: http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Engine/Mechanical/Oil_Pan/ES279972/

I can clearly see oil draining away from where the tube connects to the funnel but I don't want to replace the tube to find out the funnel is the part leaking, since it looks like the tube is not sealed to the funnel but just snap fits over the top of it (it looks like there are splines on both the tub and the funnel and they slide into and onto each other and the O-Ring end pushes into the block?). But if replacing the tube fixes the leak in this location then I'm more than happy just getting the tube.

* * * Never mind I figured it out * * *
The funnel part rises out of the bottom of the block and connects to the tube halfway up. If you have a leak in this location the dipstick funnel requires replacement (or perhaps a new O-Ring/seal but why not replace the whole thing -it's cheap) and might as well change your tube while you're at it.

jacobsen
02-18-2014, 06:06 PM
Any one know how to remove the lower metal tube? 06D103634E

MacFady
05-04-2015, 10:41 AM
... I then looked in and i saw a little tiny tiny ring of orange plastic stuck inside. I tried to get it out and it fell in.

Hopefully to help someone out, as Old guy linked above, an aquarium brush or other brushed pipe cleaner is a real asset in this job. I did mine yesterday, snapped off about 1-2" up from the bottom of the top piece. First thing I did was insert the brush. Was unable to remove the rest of the top with a screw driver as in the DIY so I just grabbed it with pliers and squeezed gently, the rest just cracked right off the black transition piece. Pulled out the wire brush and it took the orange collar portion that is inside the metal pipe right out with it perfect, otherwise that would have dropped right down into the pan.