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View Full Version : Nord locks? Or 034 Locking tab?



biketsai
05-31-2010, 06:58 PM
So I am about to install my newer turbo setup in the next couple of weeks. I was wondering which yall think I should use/which one is better. I will have an 034 Locking tab but I have also heard good things about Nord locks. Is it even possible to use both?

Chris

biketsai
06-29-2010, 03:58 PM
BUMP

nunya
06-29-2010, 04:20 PM
The problem with those bolts is that the heat stretches them if there is a weight load. If you are doing a top mount setup i wouldnt be as concerned. What manifold/turbo are you going to use? I have used Nords on an Eliminator setup and they didnt really help since the bolts stretch.

--dillon

biketsai
06-29-2010, 04:35 PM
Its going to be an elim setup- 034 manifold

nunya
06-29-2010, 04:52 PM
Its going to be an elim setup- 034 manifold

I used an ARP stud for the rear bolt so i could get the rear stud/turbo out if it stretched without removing the manifold. I have the part numbers somewhere if your interested. Even using ARP hardware I would still blow gaskets all the time due to the bolts stretching even with ARP hardware. When 034 replaced the manifold, the gasket between the turbo and manifold it still blew out 200 miles later. Its just the nature of that design, and due to the length of the bolts that hold the turbo to the manifolds. The annoying amount of times i replaced that gasket was part of the reason i switched to a top mount.

Given that its an Eliminator setup like that i am not sure if it will help with either, but if i had to pick one it would probably be the locking tab. Just because after the bolts stretch, the Nords lose their effectiveness.

--dillon

biketsai
06-29-2010, 07:16 PM
I appreciate your help. I guess I'll just have to run to the hardware store to get some nice bolts. The only time I ever worry is on track days where I have to drive 1.5 hours to get home.

Chris

Oceanside
06-29-2010, 07:34 PM
I run nords with 034 tabs on the atp side mount, I marked the sides of the nords to see if they would turn inside the tabs and so far Ive beaten on it quiet a bit and its not moved at all. I think its important to do like 4-5 heat cycles of non boost driving to get everyhting up to teperature and then let it all cool down so the gasket and bolts are used to the abuse before they are pushed

prodrive
06-29-2010, 11:17 PM
ıf you have some vibration ,try to solve the problem first. I had a very bad vibration becouse of the downpipe ,we have modified the downpipe everythnig solved now. Until the modification of the downpipe I have used all options mentioned above. The best solution for me was the nordlocks with a good set of cooper nuts. Hope this helps.

biketsai
06-30-2010, 05:37 PM
ıf you have some vibration ,try to solve the problem first. I had a very bad vibration becouse of the downpipe ,we have modified the downpipe everythnig solved now. Until the modification of the downpipe I have used all options mentioned above. The best solution for me was the nordlocks with a good set of cooper nuts. Hope this helps.

What did you do to the downpipe?

prodrive
07-01-2010, 08:04 AM
What did you do to the downpipe?

We changed the flex bellow's location. It was more far from the turbo ,we take it to about 8-9" after the turbo.

biketsai
07-01-2010, 05:17 PM
We changed the flex bellow's location. It was more far from the turbo ,we take it to about 8-9" after the turbo.

Hmm, I have the APR downpipe/exhaust. I wonder if that is sufficient

Oceanside
07-02-2010, 10:03 AM
Your going to run a 71 elim so it should be direct bolt up