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nic2000quattro
05-28-2010, 02:39 PM
Can anyone tell me if there's much involved in replacing the wastegate actuator on the turbo?
I think i'll have to take the turbo off to get to one of the bolts so I'll replace gaskets. Is it just a matter of pulling the front off and then unbolting the turbo (I know this can be the hard part trying not to snap the bolts on the turbo after the heating they've had)??

Just spent 2k so I'm strapped atm and labour won't be cheap for what i'm thinkihg is a reasonably straight forward swap....

also, has anyone got one they want to SELL????????

Someone must have a KO3 lying around! let me know if you do I'm currently running 3psi!! Yes 3! Need the actuator asap!

Thanks fellas

walky_talky20
05-28-2010, 05:13 PM
You sure it's the actuator and not the penny valve that fell off? Good luck to you. Low boost sucks.

nic2000quattro
05-28-2010, 05:23 PM
the rod/actuator won't close the valve as the spring is stuffed (I think that's whats going on.. im no expert with this, but my mech told me this). The valve is there, it's just not being closed. They tried to bend the rod a little to allow it to close it better, but no luck.. in fact prob running worse. It did take the fluttering noise away tho. Either way, 3psi!

walky_talky20
05-28-2010, 05:30 PM
Sounds like you are on the right track then. Replacing it is no problem with the turbo out. I hope you find a replacement. I think I've seen them on ebay, just watch out for chinese crap.

urban96
05-28-2010, 10:53 PM
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Engine/Turbo/Actuator/ES3468/

gmx
05-29-2010, 12:31 AM
Where abouts are u in sydney mate?
Can try my k03 if u want. I don't trust the whole turbine but the WG actuator assembly should be good (ie just swap it over). Boosted 9-10psi with no chip (stock AJL)

fbdohc
05-29-2010, 03:07 PM
Make a diy of it if you can !! It would be very useful
I'll have to do it eventually

Seerlah
05-29-2010, 05:47 PM
I just replaced mine a couple weeks ago. I wanted to make a DIY for it the first time around, but was reluctant. Anyways, I took a different aproach as I was intending on replacing the manifold also (found there were no cracks in it, so just placed same old one back in and now have a spare). It is fairly simple, just frustrating. You could do it in less than 1 1/2 hours if you knew what you were doing. But either way, you can def get it finished all in one day, as long as you have everything you need. (Fair warning: you will want to remove the manifold to get to the coolant feed line).

Requirements:
-cat to turbo gasket
-turbo to manifold gasket
-manifold to engine head gasket, if you took heed to my warning
-oil return line gaskets (you will more than likely need gaskets for both ends, because I couldn't get to the flange on the turbo side without removing the line alotogether. hence, I needed to replace the gasket on the turbo side and oil pan side. so just in case, get gaskets for both ends)
-New bolts and washers (3 bolts for turbo and 3 accompanied washers. you can reuse the turbo to cat nuts, because I did even though I have new ones. And coolant feed line washers that will go on both ends of the banjo bolt. The washers for the banjo bolt will def need replacement. Otherwise, your turbo will leak coolant. I skimp on a lot of things, but you can't skimp on this.)
-You will also want 13 new manifold to engine head nuts, along with washers (if you took heed to my warning)
-new wastegate (I purchased a Forge for $180 shipped, I think it was, off of ebay. the Forge unit will require minor drilling to permit the shaft rod to go through the wastegate flapper pivot attachment, so OEM replacement may be the better route to go)
-new coolant
-new motor oil
-something to catch oil and catch coolant
-new clamps (throttle inlet to turbo, lower intercooler hose to turbo compressor, and wastegate line)
-tools (if you don't have these, don't even bother attempting. just bring it to a shop)

You could source all these out for cheap, but don't go the ebay route unless they are real OEM replacement parts or similar quality (ie Victor Reinz or of similar quality). I learned the hard way. Like I previously stated, I skimp on a lot of things. But some things I just won't skimp on.


Process (absolutely no reason to take off the front bumper and place in service position):

*soak all bolts with PB Blaster and let soak for a good hour or so, prior to working. after reading this DIY, you will know which ones to let marinate*

1. Jack up front end of vehicle (and leave enough room for you to get under there to unbolt one of the cat bolts).
2. Remove belly pan, drain oil and drain coolant (it is easier to drain coolant by the coolant temp sensor located on your lower radiator hose near the front driver's side. Can't miss it. Be sure not to lose the o-ring, and be prepared for it to shooot out a bit. Coolant is a bio-hazard to the environment, so you may want to place something underneath your working space, like a large opened flat carboard box, to catch overspill.)
3. Remove your stock airbox (this would include unplugging MAF so you can take the airbox out). Both top and bottom portion.

Now, you have working room and can start

4. You will want to remove the pcv valve from the throttle inlet (just the end that goes into the throttle inlet), along with those little hex bolts that reach up to the 3-way junction hose at the end of the pcv hard piping (grants more working space and may not be needed, but I suggest you do it). You may want to also remove the 1 bolt that holds the oil feed line to the engine block, as it may cause complications later on. You just want things to be free, to move them to the side if necessary. This is the way I did it, anyways.
5. Remove heat sheild that protects the heat that comes from the turbo, to the enging head. It is held in by a clip and a couple little bolts like 10mm or so.

At this point, you should see everything needed to get the job done (ie take out turbo). I would start with the easiest:

6. Remove the throttle inlet and lower intercooler hose from turbocharger by loosening the clamps (do not remove completely yet). Also, remove the wastegate line while at it.
7. Remove the coolant retun line from turbo(extra coolant will come out, so have a bucket underneath it ready along with whatever you use to catch the overspill/splash). It's the fitting closest to the engine block, on top of turbo. There are only 2 visible fitting, and this is one of them.
8. Remove oil feed line from turbo. It is the other fitting, furthest from engine block. This is the other only visible fitting.
9. Unbolt cat to turbo nuts (these are not a PIA like people say, if you have the right tools). There is a swivel joint that is highly recommended for this part. It can be found in Autozone for cheap, or Sears for more money. Just know, that Autoparts stores don't have higher quality in materials in tools as places like Sears. So, it could snap on you very easily, if you go the autostore route. And you will def need an extension to attach to your ratchet to get to the nut undeneath the cat converter.

After you do these steps, you are basically left with the turbocharger free, minus the oil return line (underneath turbo) and coolant feed line (on side of turbo, with the manifold in the way. that is why I suggested to take out the manifold also, because I really don't know how you will get to the line without removing the manifold. I removed the manifold already, so that was not an issue for me. Once again, I highly suggest you remove the manifold, because more than likely you will have to end up removing it anyways).

10. Now, loosen (don't unbolt) the banjo bolt from the for the coolant feed line till coolant starts to come out (have a bucket under the turbo, ready still. there will be a fair amount of coolant that will come out from here). Take a break and let all the coolant stop draining completely.
11. Take off the banjo bolt on the turbo for the coolant feed line (it took me a long time to realise that there is a bolt that attaches the coolant feed line to the turbo, on the wastegate bracket. remove that, so you can remove the coolant feed line from the turbo. no need to replace this bolt when placing back together).

Now, I will tell you on how I did it from here, but you can take a different aproach.

12. I removed the oil return line on the engine block side, rasied the turbo up to gain access to the other side, and unbolted that side of the oil return line. If you are crafty enough, you can just remove the side that attaches to the turbo by gaining acess from underneath. Or you can maybe not have to remove the oil feed line at all from the turbo charger side and pull out the turbo along with the oil return line still attached. If you do this, there will be no need to replace that gasket. But you will def need to remove the oil feed line from the oil pan.
13. Remove the bolt on the turbo compressor that is the boost pressure line leading to the n75 valve (that is the other line that goes to the n75 valve, along with the wastegate line).

Now, you should have the turbo in hand and ready to replace the wastegate. This is the easiest part of it.

14. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the bracket of the wastegate to the compressor, and the 2 bolts that lock the flapper pivot peice in place on the shaft/rod of the waategate.
15. You can now remove the wastegate.

Now, install everything in reverse. If you want me to post up torque specs, just ask and I will look it up in the Bentley manual. But really, you could just tighten them to where you feel comfortable. But don't tighten too lose or too tight. I have both snapped bolts (overtorqued bolts. only replacement bolt I snapped from the dealership was the pinch bolt for the upper front CAs. snapped other bolts from companies, such as JHM.) and had bolts eventually vibrate themselves free. So, I would highly suggest you use lock tight (sp??) on all bolts and nuts being replaced. I would not place that bolt that holds the coolant line to the wastegate bracket back, though. Maybe because that bolt held me up for like 30min[cool]. Couldn't figure out why the f*ck I couldn't remove the coolant feed line, and there ya go.

Adjusting wastegate:

You need to keep the flapper fully closed (just place your finger on it, with pressure), while turning down one of the locking nuts till it touches the wastegate. After you get the locking nuts tight, you need to thread it down a couple more mm tighter. Otherwise, the exhaust gas will build up to the point you will cause a wastegate boost leak, cause slower spool, and loose a couple pounds of boost pressure.

EuRo_KiD
05-29-2010, 06:00 PM
God damn seerlah, you deserve a grammy lol

Seerlah
05-29-2010, 06:15 PM
Just trying to help[cool]

nic2000quattro
05-29-2010, 08:31 PM
Good onya Seerlah! Great stuff mate.. Just got nailed in the surf, back is killing so after reading all that, I think I'll get someone else to do it!
BUt thanks for the right up buddy saved me doing it!
Why did you replace yours? Was the spring stuffed or had the flap shot out? It was the source of your boost leak? Was the busted wastegate causing a noise off throttle?

willowtreexx
05-29-2010, 08:32 PM
Just trying to help[cool]

Seerlah always stepping up the plate and helping us out, as he did many times for me [up]

I will be replacing my wastegate on tuesday hoping to solve the famous LIMP issue

Seerlah
05-29-2010, 09:00 PM
Good onya Seerlah! Great stuff mate.. Just got nailed in the surf, back is killing so after reading all that, I think I'll get someone else to do it!
BUt thanks for the right up buddy saved me doing it!
Why did you replace yours? Was the spring stuffed or had the flap shot out? It was the source of your boost leak? Was the busted wastegate causing a noise off throttle?

Really, it isn't that difficult. If I took pictures and attached them in the write-up, you would see how simple it really is. Just frustrating when things don't go the way you want it to. But that is just something that comes along with life (Murphy's Law, and I am sure there are a whole bunch of other theories and beliefs to support that noble truth). If someone were to pay me money, I would dismantle it again just to add pics to the write-up, because it really isn't that difficult. After you get a quote, then decide if you want to tackle it yourself or not. There are people on this forum baord, such as myself, always willing to help. I personally wouldn't and don't take my car to a shop unless I absolutely have to. I attempt things first before bringing it to a shop. FWIW, this is the first car I have ever worked on and first time I did such a task on a car. I was a super noob when I first joined this forum board. People here will teach you more than you really need to know. But that's a good thing. Bottom line, you will never know if you can do it or not if you never try.

But the reason I originally tried to replace the turbo and mani is because I was having boost isues (partial throttle cut). I thought that either the mani or turbo had a crack in it, causing me to run leaning and having the ECU cut throttle partially when my A/F was slight lean at times (my analysis). So, I decided to replace my turbo and mani. After taking out the turbo, I saw that one of the bolts that mount the bracket of the wastegate to the turbo was missing and the shaft for the wastegate was terribly bent. Well, that was the issue for the partial throttle cut. My analysis is that the wastetage was not opening properly, and I would overboost. Then the ECU would cut throttle partially, to protect the engine. Could be wrong, could be right. Anyways, replaced wastegate and now all is good. Except I am back to stock boost. I had my car down for 3 weeks or so, and I am going to talk to my tuner on Tuesday (after fully checking over my vehicle, but I need my VAG Com. All I really need to do is check requested vs actual boost, and I will have my answer right there) to see if I may need a reflash (unhooked ECU, battery, while checking other sh*t).


Seerlah always stepping up the plate and helping us out, as he did many times for me [up]

I will be replacing my wastegate on tuesday hoping to solve the famous LIMP issue

I just show the same amount of love people here have shown me over the years. Too bad that the oldies no longer post. They could grant you better info and advice than I think I ever could. Now that I think about it, you hardly post yourself anymore.

As for your limp mode issue, I hope you checked the wastegate first by unhooking the vacuum line to the n75 before attempting to replace. What is your A/F ratio looking like? You sure you aren't running lean?

fbdohc
05-30-2010, 05:18 PM
Thanks sir !

willowtreexx
06-01-2010, 12:01 PM
I just show the same amount of love people here have shown me over the years. Too bad that the oldies no longer post. They could grant you better info and advice than I think I ever could. Now that I think about it, you hardly post yourself anymore.

As for your limp mode issue, I hope you checked the wastegate first by unhooking the vacuum line to the n75 before attempting to replace. What is your A/F ratio looking like? You sure you aren't running lean?

Sent ya a PM,

I just now like 30sec ago tested the N75 and PMed you the results. (was able to boost 15-20psi in 3rd) I have no idea what my A/F ratio is, dont have a gauge or Vag unfortunately.

nic2000quattro
06-01-2010, 08:56 PM
hey fellas. Had my car looked at today by the 3rd mech and who woulda guessed it they were all full of shit! This guy actually plugged it up (they all told me they had of which i was skeptical) and it blew out about 10 codes.
mainly low pressure in the mani and that the ECU was getting intermittent power. Anyway the fixed some and fixed some electrical probs but definitely, the wastegate isn't closing... so either it's busted (i hope), or the turbo is! if its the turbo ill go down the ko4 route. just frustrating that it took 3 guys and a serious wad of cash to fix this... well not fix but atleast diagnose with some accuracy! also a pain that i dont have a spare car to use when this is off the road. But after spending 4 monthsd with 0 boost pressure i cannot wait to see what the car actually goes like. Will let you know how it goes next wk have to take the turbo off and have a good look!
thanks for all the help

Seerlah
06-01-2010, 09:06 PM
If the wastegate flapper is stuck open, your turbo may be just fine. And I say "may", because it is still an Audi part, none the less[:p]. But yeah, a wastegate replacement very much looks like will fix your issue. If you want to take the time to fix it yourself, should cost you around the $250 mark. And that is just the price of the wastegate, nuts, bolts, washers, and gaskets. Expect a mechanic to bump those prices up more than just a tad. And that does not even include labor costs.

walky_talky20
06-01-2010, 09:47 PM
Wow Seerlah, great help in this thread. Very nice.

I thought I'd add a little bit of my experience with removing and installing my turbo..twice. Although replacing all of the bolts, nuts, washers, gaskets is certainly officially recommended, if they are in good condition you can get away with reusing them. When rebuilding my turbo...twice...I didn't replace any of those items (turbo bolts/washers, turbo gaskets, etc). I know...the HORROR. I used some RTV silicone on the oil return line where it connects to the oil pan, to supplement the original gasket. I would recommend replacing the washers on the coolant line banjo fitting, though. I didn't do this and after the second re-install it was leaking very slightly at the turbo. Even reusing all those parts there are no ill-effects 15k miles later - other than the minor coolant leak, which I was able to remedy by tightening the banjo fitting 1/8th of a turn, without removing the turbo (yeah, that was fun).

Also, I did not remove the manifold either time. Getting at the coolant banjo fitting was a bit difficult, especially during the install, but nothing that merits removing the manifold just for that. Especially if you would then "have to" replace the manifold gasket. It may help to have an extra set of hands during the install for that part to hold the turbo while you start the banjo bolt and tighten.

I guess I'm not "recommending" that you forego replacing all the little things. I'm just saying that I didn't and everything is fine...twice. If I had to pull it again (which I might), I may look into some turbo gaskets, but thats probably it.

doubleu8
06-02-2010, 07:36 AM
Seerlah has/is becoming a great asset to our forum. Always willing to help and in great detail if needed.

Thank you for your contributions!!!
To OP good luck with the fix.