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View Full Version : Starting to hate my audi please help!



dh4life55
05-25-2010, 11:13 PM
So after investing several thousand dollars into my 2001 a4 im finally losing my hope in my car.. so far ive had a bad cam chain tensioner bad wheel bearing bad cv axles that was just the begining. So heres my problem. My car had been having a hard time starting lately but it will start sometimes. when it starts it has a high idle around 1200rpm but drops after the sai turns off and the car warms up a little way higher or an idle than normal. The car is kinda hesitating under acceleration when it does start and if i slow down to a stop the car dies but it doesnt die if it idles. I have nooo boost or vacuum leaks cause i just replaced one thinking it was the problem. I just replaced all spark plugs with ngk with .28 gap and one of my coil packs which i dont think it is because the car will have power if i step on it. I do not think it is the battery either. Another thing.. tonight i started it right up took it for a test drive felt alright it finally warmed up and was slowing down to a stop and the car really gently stalled i didnt even know it had happened till i stepped on the gas and after that it will NOT start tried popping the clutch rolling too no start but windows roll up and lights are bright. I just replaced the TPS and did a tb adaptation i have a check engine light but no scanner and am afraid it wont make it all the way to my dealership. hate to take it to them anyways what a ripoff, anyone with a similar problem please let me know i am getting sick and tired of this p.o.s dying on me every other week the only thing i can think of is a problem with the maf or o2 sensor any other ideas would be amazing thanks for the help

brfooser
05-25-2010, 11:47 PM
check and post codes

bofa deez
05-26-2010, 12:01 AM
um.. hows your fuel lookin? no worky fuel pump = no fuel pressure = car stalling out at times and causing a crank no start.
not sure if you've checked any of that yet.?

FNK
05-26-2010, 07:07 AM
Clogged catalyser?

dh4life55
05-26-2010, 08:48 AM
i have no catalytic converter in the car, it could be a fuel problem but i hear the fuel pump prime when i turn the car into the on position

FNK
05-26-2010, 09:09 AM
Then a damaged MAF is highly probable

dh4life55
05-26-2010, 09:14 AM
Then a damaged MAF is highly probable

thats what i was thinking but i dont have vag com and idk if it will make it all the way to audi to pull the codes..

lowandslow4now
05-26-2010, 09:15 AM
Find someone close to you with a Vag-com and have them do a full scan so you can know everything that is going on. Everyone here can throw suggestions out there of what may be the problem but you will not know for sure until you get a scan.

FNK
05-26-2010, 07:55 PM
Find a Vag-com or buy one on Ebay, 20$ and 2 week to your door.

The MAF can be visually inspected, but there could be a fried wire... maybe testing it before buying one.

dh4life55
05-26-2010, 08:19 PM
vag com is on ebay for around 20.00 wow thats nice and any suggestions u have for testing it?? just simply unplugging it and see if the car dies.... i figures out the car will only die when it warms up cold it starts up quickly it dies at idle sometimes or under deceleration

BASARAB
05-26-2010, 08:40 PM
Did u check your compression?

dh4life55
05-26-2010, 08:46 PM
i definately think it's not a compression problem because if i drive the car after it starts i have power... but when the cars cold it seems to hesitate a little smooths up as it warms up then dies... Im thinking this is a maf problem any way to test it maybe also a o2 sensor problem my o2 sensor hit the turbo the other day and melted the plastic a little but dont think it hurt the wires.... probably another good thing to check i guess

dh4life55
05-27-2010, 12:54 PM
So i cleaned the MAF sensor with alcolhol didnt seem to do anything... still have the same problems im pretty sure its the maf sensor or the 02 sensor just dont feel like spending the money to replace both right now

FNK
05-27-2010, 02:07 PM
Running whitout the MAF sensor plugged would either: Not start the car, or run whit "Limp mode".
If the car still run whitout it and better, it would be the MAF. If not, we'll continue to test "stuff"

dh4life55
05-27-2010, 10:00 PM
Running whitout the MAF sensor plugged would either: Not start the car, or run whit "Limp mode".
If the car still run whitout it and better, it would be the MAF. If not, we'll continue to test "stuff"

I have already also tried just running the car with the maf unplugged and it idles like crap so bad it can't drive... plug the maf in and it idles better and seems driveable just has a high idle at first then after 30 seconds or so returns to a normal idle speed but it idles really rough checked the condition of my o2 sensor wires they were fine... dont o2 sensors have to heat up to work does it seem possible that as the 02 sensor warms up near reaching closed loop thats when the car dies ughh no one in my area has vag com that i know and cant make it to the dealership and dont wanna pay them for repairs i can do myself. Ive also heard a cts can cause this problem i believe... my coolant reaches temp just fine and shows proper temp.. too bad the things it could be are so expensive just to check it thats the problem

walky_talky20
05-27-2010, 10:47 PM
You can actually unplug the Coolant Temp Sensor. This will make the ECU go to a default value. I believe it is 70c, which is a bit colder than operating temp. This temp should allow a decent cold start and driveability. Worth a shot and would rule out that item. Another way to rule it out is just replace it. They are pretty cheap.

First thing I would do is hook it up to vag-com to read codes and log the MAF. MAF should reach about 130 g/s or so at the top of 3rd gear, full throttle. I'd also look at long term fuel trims - block 032.

If you have a laptop already you can get a vag-com cable on ebay for less than $15 shipped. This is probably a good idea for you if you want to do some things yourself. The software is free, but the free version is limited. You can read all codes and you would be able to log the MAF, but not boost pressure, and you can't see long term fuel trims. Full version is $100. Even the free version is very helpful for diagnostics though.

dh4life55
05-28-2010, 10:50 AM
You can actually unplug the Coolant Temp Sensor. This will make the ECU go to a default value. I believe it is 70c, which is a bit colder than operating temp. This temp should allow a decent cold start and driveability. Worth a shot and would rule out that item. Another way to rule it out is just replace it. They are pretty cheap.

First thing I would do is hook it up to vag-com to read codes and log the MAF. MAF should reach about 130 g/s or so at the top of 3rd gear, full throttle. I'd also look at long term fuel trims - block 032.

If you have a laptop already you can get a vag-com cable on ebay for less than $15 shipped. This is probably a good idea for you if you want to do some things yourself. The software is free, but the free version is limited. You can read all codes and you would be able to log the MAF, but not boost pressure, and you can't see long term fuel trims. Full version is $100. Even the free version is very helpful for diagnostics though.

Thanks for the reply... i dont have a laptop at my disposal right at this moment but ill search for one... i guess im gonna have to wait till monday for payday and just try replacing the o2 sensor or the maf to test it maybe buy the cable too and see if i can use a friends comp or something. Too bad its summer i have any diagnostic tool i could ever need at school.

dh4life55
05-28-2010, 11:37 AM
So i have been doing some research and im starting to think it is my vehicle speed sensor i have had read someone else had the same problem heard a little pop then horrible starting problems car wont start while warm sounds exactly like my problem plus its a cheap part im gonna try this

walky_talky20
05-28-2010, 05:25 PM
You probably mean the engine speed sensor. The vehicle speed sensor shouldn't affect the engine running.

anger
05-28-2010, 05:35 PM
You probably mean the engine speed sensor. The vehicle speed sensor shouldn't affect the engine running.

^listen to this man!

brockallentaylo
05-29-2010, 12:30 AM
Yes, the crankshaft position sensor (engine speed sensor) you are referring to will definitely give the symptoms you have listed so far, they are very heat sensitive when they start to fail, car warms up, randomly dies and wont start, let it sit and it starts fine the next day. IDM's and ignition amp's do the same when they start to fail. Of course the easiest way to verify this is to get the car to the point where it wont start, then plug in vag-com and see if you can verify engine speed during cranking, if not...bad CPS. It's all speculation without vag-com info but I would say you are headed down the right path with the CPS.

brockallentaylo
05-29-2010, 12:38 AM
Wait, I just thought of a "ghetto" CPS test. Have a buddy follow you with their car until yours dies. Then have him tow you up to 20mph or so, put it in 2nd gear with the key on and let out on the clutch. If your tachometer doesn't jump up to 2K or so when you let out on the clutch the CPS is bad. If it does jump up but doesn't start look elsewhere. Not entirely conclusive but thats the best I can do without the proper tools. Anyone have some bailing wire, a toothpick and coconut? I could definitely figure it out then.

dh4life55
05-29-2010, 10:48 AM
Yes i meant the engine speed sensor sorry about that... thats exactly what happens the car will not start when warm must be cool to start and wont start by rolling and popping clutch. What is the exact name for this part for my car is it a refrence/rpm sensor

brockallentaylo
05-29-2010, 12:00 PM
CPS Crankshaft position sensor

dh4life55
05-29-2010, 12:28 PM
very nice thank u i think they call it all three names ecs has it as a rpm sensor mjm autohaus has it as cps gonna try getting one today from napa or autozone because the dealers are closed weekends here

Piscroni
05-31-2010, 02:45 PM
i had a problem very similar to this once and it ended up being the coolant temp sensor from what i remember (it was a few years ago now). my a4 wouldn't start every few weeks and would idle high, etc... it wasn't so much that the sensor was bad, but the seal was leaking and it followed the line up to the ecu box from what i was told. it was very frustrating until my mechanic found the problem. he was a little surprised by that one, we were looking at fuel pumps, spark plugs, etc... as well.

hope this helps.

dh4life55
05-31-2010, 08:17 PM
this does help me and i do have that leak at the coolant temp sensor also i just found it today so... i am going to get both the cps and the cts and the plastic piece coming from the back of the head hope this works

bigaldi
06-02-2010, 07:03 AM
Hi, this is my first post, so bare with me everyone if i stuff something up. This thread made me join audizine. dh4life55, me and my brother have the 1.8T engine in our cars and have had similar if not all and more probs you mentioned (mine MY99 A4, brother's is a 98 Passat). It's been an ongoing saga for a couple of years and our local vw and audi mechs couldn't solve this stupid problem.. Spent lots of money trying to get it fixed. We decided to dedicate a lot of time and research into fixing our cars ourselves because we love em (despite their querks) and it was our only hope. Our cars would stall, jerk badly, hesitate on power delivery very badly, sometimes not start at all.. they especially stalled and carried on after they warmed up... problems were so bad that we were too scared to drive them. Anyway, after a lot of reading up about our engines (we were complete noobs btw), i decided the best part to attack first was the MAF. We cleaned the MAF sensors. My car didn't become better but my bro's did. We were onto something. After a couple of weeks the passat returned to it's normal bad behaivors. I then ordered 2 MAFs off ebay, installed them and our cars were fixed!!! What a relief this was.. $72 Australian to fix this damn problem we put up with for over 2 years. Our cars have been working well for over a year now, BUT, the passat spat chips and started to play up again.. quite bad. Bought another MAF, no change. The passat is now in limp mode, we acheived this by removing the MAF electrical connector, passat is at least drivable now but low on power as the air and fuel mix is on default values. I've just ordered a EVAP Purge Valve which is located around the same area as the MAF, lots of reading tells me this could be the fix.. It should arrive in a few days so I'll keep you up to date on how she goes.. Hope this helps. Replace that MAF as a start.. Pretty cheap if ya look about. Whatever you do, don't let your car win! Keep at it! Very rewarding when you solve it.

dh4life55
06-02-2010, 10:22 AM
I have checked and cleaned my maf sensor already i do not believe this is the problem... I have had a passat with a bad maf and it was much different than this. Yesterday i went to check my coolant temp sensor and found a deteriorated rubber grommet causing it to leak around the cts which i believe fouled my cts i pulled it out and it was very corroded so i am replacing it tonight already have the parts i also replaced my cps just to be safe havent started it up yet though. If your going into limp mode u probably have a boost leak are your cars chipped or stock ecu check diverter valves and vacuum hoses many of them are hiding in ur car and hard to see without a thourogh search ive had this happen before replaced many hard parts and sensors and turned out to be a hidden boost leak.. does the car have any codes

bigaldi
06-02-2010, 09:44 PM
Cheers for the tips. Our cars are both stock ecu. We don't have Vag-Com yet so can't say on codes.. about to order vag-com in next couple of days, been putting it off for a while. I upgraded my diverter valve on my a4, my old oem seems fine, maybe i should chuck this in the passat and see what happens. We've had a good look over hoses and found one dodgy looking one and sealed it up.. didn't fix, but you're right, probably need to check those ones hiding away. The reason i suggested MAF replacement was that my a4 didn't change after a MAF clean at all and had similar probs to yours, but after a replacement it was back to normal. I actually have a spare near new MAF here.. but i beleive you live on the other side of the world so makes harder for a quick test. Hopefully this coolant thing you're looking into fixes your probs anyway, i'll keep checking this thread to see how it went.. Cheers again for the tips.

dh4life55
06-03-2010, 09:53 AM
Sooo... i have just replaced my cps and cts with a new rubber grommet... no leaking now but when i go to start the car up after it has been sitting for a few days i have a horrible engine knock that increases with rpm.. counds like a rod or piston knock. It never did this before i am wondering if i forgot to install something putting the car back together or what... pulled the fuel rail after starting and each injector smells of fuel think im getting fuel and played with my coil packs and moved em around a little bit no change... starting to get so frustrating im about to take it to audi i need a code reader at least maybe ill buy one monday anyone have this happen randomly it has never knocked before

dh4life55
06-03-2010, 10:15 AM
wonder if sitting for a few days caused the oil to clog up causing the knock

FNK
06-03-2010, 02:13 PM
Quite possible, as a single use of stoopid 5w50 clogged something in mine and now the lifter tick... I know there is a lot of gunk in it... (I should use a cleaner or something, and I also have that increase rpm.)

dh4life55
06-03-2010, 07:47 PM
ughhh definatly hating this car just bought it cant drive it not it knocks and still stalls out i can get the knock to go away sometimes but still wants to die guess the next thing to replace is the maf the coolant light keeps blinking at me but everything is fine with the coolant so close to wanting to get rid of it

biketsai
06-03-2010, 08:07 PM
Running whitout the MAF sensor plugged would either: Not start the car, or run whit "Limp mode".
If the car still run whitout it and better, it would be the MAF. If not, we'll continue to test "stuff"

Since he is an 01 his system will adapt after a few minutes. I would definitely get your codes checked ASAP, it is very important to diagnose anything. Like the other guy said, the MAF can make a lot of things act weird.

dh4life55
06-08-2010, 10:39 PM
Sooo... i have fixed any weak conections i previously had with the maf and cts soldered them nicely and bought a new maf sensor and cleaned the oil and fuel with some seafoam started the car up the knock was still there for a little revved it to get some oil flowing and the knock completely went away and didnt come back it idles nicely although a little high at first and drives pretty nicely at low boost but at soon as i add a little boost the car starts hesitating and doesnt wanna run after coasting it home parked it in the garage and idle started fluctuating couldnt even pop the clutch to get the car restarted while coasting so ive replaced cts.. cps.. tps.. did tba.. coilpacks.. spark plugs.. replaced maf.. cleaned with seafoam.. soldered conectors cleaned map, and cleaned ait, fixed two cracked hoses cleaned intercooler hoses for oil and the car will still not run the only sensor i can think of to replace is the o2 sensor starting to get frustrated i have a code im gonna save up 50 bucks and try and get a scanner finally giving in haha any ideas anyone ughhh

FNK
06-09-2010, 07:13 AM
I started last week a Ristlone engine treatment to remove most of the sludge that is causing my valve ticking, and overall the engine feel more alive, idle better and fuel consumption is down. So this old engine definitively need this. You seafoamed it, I guess it's about the same cleaning...

Clogged air filter?
Any oil leakage? Strange color.
A ground may be loose...

dh4life55
06-09-2010, 09:31 AM
Seafoam is a very similar treatment and it did great there is nothing wrong with that anymore its under driving conditions now.. if u get on the gas and add a lot of boost it boggs out.. and after it boggs out the car has a flashing cel light and runs weird for about 30seconds then somehow comes back to life if i leave the car alone... so hard to explain

fliptronic
06-09-2010, 09:43 AM
idle fluctuations... wouldn't respond properly when i accelerated... felt like it would just get shot and almost completely stall. at one point the throttle didn't have any affect and the rpms were just revving up and down between 1500-2500.

replaced the engine speed sensor and ecu and i'm golden right now.

i'm seeing a lot of people with this same issue lately.

hope this helped.

dh4life55
06-09-2010, 10:13 AM
for my car what they call speed sensor is the crankshaft position sensor and i just replaced that and the ecu should be prefectly fine only sensor i can think of is my o2 sensor otherwise gotta get some cash and get a scanner to pull codes

FNK
06-10-2010, 02:34 PM
Clogged catalyser, jack the car and shake them. knocking=Small pieces=shattered cat=a lot of restriction in the exhaust line.

dh4life55
06-10-2010, 10:34 PM
i had just checked the cat recently and it was fine... but today got a code reader and went to town got like 8 codes haha cyl 1 missfire, cyl 2, cyl 3, cyl4, random cyl missfire, tps low input (i think this was from forgetting to do tpa after removing battery) and the important one 02 sensor b1, s1, my cars wideband.. bad o2 sensor so bad to the point the car cant fuel right and dies so orded one from local parts store 100 bucks pick it up in the am install it tomorrow night and well see how this works. Thankfully though i have alllll fresh sensors in my car spare coils and fresh plugs now haha costly way of doing things but it needed a freshening almost ready for my BT build for it too hopefully 430whp 3076r made to 2.0L should be fun

dh4life55
06-12-2010, 10:42 AM
Soo i seem to have fixed my problem... turned out to be my front 02 sensor and my cps were both bad took it for a pull today ran great!!!! thanks everyone for all the help

dh4life55
06-18-2010, 12:45 PM
Sooo.... after fixing my car motor is running verry strong no issues sounds better than ever go to drive to the beach make a hard stop in traffic and my drivetrain starts making noise thought it was a cv axle got so bad could barely drive it it was soo loud metal grinding noise brought it to audi cause im sick of working on it they claim its a transmission problem and it will need a rebuild or a new transmission holy crap definately so tired of this car drove a vw passat 1.8t for 2.5years never in the shop once get an audi with less miles and its driven for a few days out of a few months and breaks almost every time i drive it... anyone have experience replacing tranmissions and how much did u spend not looking forward to audi's quote. I have awd by the way

bubba_smyth
06-19-2010, 12:28 AM
My car had a similar issue when I first bought it. after so long of playing with the MAF and TB, I was about ready to start testing wires before I found a thread that said whenever the Throttle body, ECU, or battery is disconnected for long periods of time, the throttlebody has to be recalibrated to the car. One way of doing this is to open the drivers door, open the hood, then turn the key to the on position for 2 minutes or till you hear thr throttle body turn over. I ended up having to take my car to a local garage and have them recalibrate my a4 via vag-com. It took 2 minutes and my car has run amazing since.

FNK
06-19-2010, 08:00 PM
Sooo.... after fixing my car motor is running verry strong no issues sounds better than ever go to drive to the beach make a hard stop in traffic and my drivetrain starts making noise thought it was a cv axle got so bad could barely drive it it was soo loud metal grinding noise brought it to audi cause im sick of working on it they claim its a transmission problem and it will need a rebuild or a new transmission holy crap definately so tired of this car drove a vw passat 1.8t for 2.5years never in the shop once get an audi with less miles and its driven for a few days out of a few months and breaks almost every time i drive it... anyone have experience replacing tranmissions and how much did u spend not looking forward to audi's quote. I have awd by the way

Never worked on an Audi transmission (only a Ford), It cost less to buy another tranny and put it in there than paying someone to make it work again (and my mecanic redid the job 3 times (at it expence) a little better each time... I would so it myself if needed.

Sorry about your car, the previous owner seems to have neglected it a lot.

Edit : I have the a PDF showing the complete precedure to remove the trans, if interested

dh4life55
06-21-2010, 12:01 PM
really that could be useful if i decide to do it myself... ya the previous owner was a younger kid that seems to have beaten the piss out of this car now debating selling this audi i just got.. audi is only quoting me $2,500 1500 labor and 1000 for a rebuilt tranny which isnt too bad. cant think of another car id wanna own other than going back to vw too bad my first experience with audi is so horrible

dcampana
06-21-2010, 02:37 PM
just do it yourself. seriously. the trans job would take a day to do if you pace yourself. its not that grueling. beats paying audi $2500 to do it. hell you could fly me out, and for less than a plane ticket and a place to stay for a few days, you would be out WAY less... would be willing to help. or go ont he reginal forum and see if someone down there will do it as a side job.

dh4life55
06-22-2010, 12:35 PM
That is starting to seem like the best option for me and it will save me a lot of cash i am very mechanically skilled and have done a few transmissions before so shouldnt be too bad FNK do you think you could get me a copy of the write up for the removal procedure that would be excellent!

dcampana
06-22-2010, 06:37 PM
its in the audidiy.com website...

here you go:

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng48.shtml

dh4life55
06-23-2010, 02:45 PM
very nice thanks for that

FNK
06-24-2010, 09:39 AM
That is starting to seem like the best option for me and it will save me a lot of cash i am very mechanically skilled and have done a few transmissions before so shouldnt be too bad FNK do you think you could get me a copy of the write up for the removal procedure that would be excellent!

Yes of course, I PM'ed you.