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View Full Version : For those with ST coilovers.....



Seerlah
03-19-2010, 06:40 AM
Did you use a washer to tighten down the strut mount? I am currently installing my coilovers, and noticed that the nut that came off the stock suspension has the nut style with the built in washer. But the nut that came with the ST coilovers is just a basic nut, and looks like it would need a washer underneath it. But yet, it does not come with a washer. I was wondering if you guys used a washer for that nut or not? And if not, did you experience any complications thereafter? Thanks!

jsquillz22
03-19-2010, 06:55 AM
when i put my coilivers in, i just used all the stock bolts, i had no issue, but i was also running vmaxx lol much lower on the totem pole

Seerlah
03-19-2010, 07:07 AM
Mine cost about the same as V-Maxx, on the intro price. $750 after shipping. But yet, are made by KW. They raised the prices to $1050 now, before shipping).

I was thiking about using the stock nut, as it looks way better quality than the one ST supplied. But I kind of want to keep everything together. Nvmd, I am going to go by your suggestion and use the stock unit. It is just an overall better built nut.

Edit: I was shakey reusing that bolt, as it seemed to not want to thread into the strut rod easily in the beginning. In other words, it looked like the beginning of the end for the threads on the rod if I continued. I just forgot the washer altogether and torqued it rather well. Thanks for the advice, though.

wesleyfbm
03-19-2010, 09:33 AM
hmm i dont remember what i did for my STs. but this coming week im upgrading to 034 high density strut mounts so i guess ill figure that out when i get to it again.

Seerlah
03-19-2010, 10:18 AM
That's one of the reasons I waited so long to install my coilovers. I wanted the 034 strut mounts first, and really don't know why I waited so long to order them. And the only reason I have them already, is because of the 034 Christmas sale for their Density Line products that past last season.

But on the brighter not, fronts are done. Now, onto the rear[wrench].

flashovermac
03-19-2010, 01:14 PM
my ST's came with a gold coloured washer and a new nut.... :s

Seerlah
03-19-2010, 05:08 PM
Ugh, I am thinking I need to dismantle it again to place a washer on there[headbang].

And for clarification, are you referring to a washer they supplied that goes underneath the stut mount? Or one that you place on top of the strut mount, with the nut they provided?

This is getting me rather aggravated now. First, I did the fronts and tightened everything down. Then was playing with it for a while to get the proper height. Then I notice that I placed one of the old strut mounts back on. Had to dismantle it again to place the 034 unit on that one side, and now I am thinking I have to dismantle it again to place a washer on there.

Spent so much time on the fronts today, that I didn't even have time to get to the rears. That should be easy though, and now I know where to set the perches at...............hopefully (will set the same as the fronts).

wesleyfbm
03-19-2010, 06:27 PM
so is there supposed to be a washer on the bottom of the strut mount and on the top? just one washer for either top or bottom...got myself little confused now.

Seerlah
03-19-2010, 07:08 PM
There is def one for the bottom. Just re-use the one that is currently on your stock suspension. And it seems that there is also one on the top of the strut mount. The OEM top strut mount nut is one of those nuts with the built in washer design, so there isn't a sovereign washer there. But it seems that others have reveived a washer to go along with the nut for the upper top mount nut they provided. I talked to Lazlo at 034 a little while ago (maybe he will see this post and know whom her was talking to) and he said that having no washer there should not cause an issue. I took that as an ease of mind, but I will still add a washer (and check condition of the strut mount) when I do my CAs in the future.

But to answer your question, there is one that will def be required on the bottom. And you can simply reuse the one that is already there. That's what I did.

walky_talky20
03-19-2010, 07:25 PM
This is getting me rather aggravated now...

Don't be. At least you are worried about the little details and wanting to do it right, and aren't just completely oblivious and careless. That would turn out much worse.

I've found with a lot of aftermarket items like LCA's and other things, often the provided hardware isn't as good as the factory stuff. Good Luck.

Seerlah
03-19-2010, 07:50 PM
I really wanted to reuse the old OEM nut for the top of the strut mount. But I did not want to force the nut on and cause a complication with the threads. Hopefully, I will have everything on tommorow and still be able to get an alignment before the end of the weekend. Then I can order my wheels. Also scored these CCP rear sway bar end links for $50 shippped. I am kind of ansy to see how the new suspension will feel after all of this.

The one real thing that has me shakey is the torquing of the sway bar end link and inner CA arm bolts. I really don't see how people are able to get a torque wrench in those tight spaces. Or maybe mine is just too robust. So, I had to load the suspension under a hydraulic jack and just tighten them till I felt the point of me maybe snapping a bolt or nut. I'm hoping that does not cause an issue. I was only able to properly toque down the lower strut bolt to the CA. I had to use judgement on all the others.

Lazer Viking
03-19-2010, 09:21 PM
a washer on the bottom of the strut mount, and the top, is reccomended.. but i am only running one on top, and have been for years

are far as torquing.. i dont tourqe shit like that, just tighten it till its "tight enough" and have never had problems

Seerlah
03-20-2010, 03:57 AM
^That's comforting to know that. Hopefully, just running one on the bottom will not cause an issue. I remember a thread a little while ago where a person experienced clunking on his coilovers. When he took it apart, the middle hole for the mount was worn out and widened (sp?). Came to find out it was a washer issue. The new search function sucks major balls, so it is really difficult for me to find the thread and see what really happened. I do know it was because of where he placed the washer. Not sure if it were because of him placing it on the bottom or the top, only. But Lazlo said that it isn't necessary to have one on the top, so maybe the guy in that thread just did not torque the top nut down fully?

And with my CA and sway bar bushings, I did torque them with the suspension loaded. So, I am thinking things will be fine. I also noticed when I take my car to my personal mechanic, he also does not use a torque wrench. He just makes sure things are super tight.

Seerlah
03-20-2010, 07:56 AM
Added question: Does anyone know if I leave the same amount of threads left in the rear as I did the front, will they grant an equal drop f&r? I will wait maybe 30 min for a reply, then get to it and just adjust as I did yesterday. It's just incredibly annoying trying to get that perfect stance when you need to guess. Thanks!

wesleyfbm
03-20-2010, 12:52 PM
no my rears were maxed out with maybe 1 1/2" threads left in the front.

wesleyfbm
03-20-2010, 12:52 PM
thanks for answering my question guys.

Seerlah
03-20-2010, 01:05 PM
Yeah, I did not find that out till later. It's cool, though. I just tightened the perch till it was rather hard for me to turn and placed them on. It left the rears maybe 1/4 inch higher than the fronts. And both rear sides are off by a comple mm of each others. I really don't feel like messing around with it for a couple mm as of now, as I will need to readjust them in a couple weeks after I get my wheels. Going to get an alingment in a couple minutes, and I hope everything works out fine. It's the torquing of the CA bolts that have me worried.

Lazer Viking
03-20-2010, 05:07 PM
control arm bolts will be fine as long as you tightened them under load, remember that your car will settle a little (mine about 1/4") in a weeks time

Seerlah
03-21-2010, 05:32 AM
You think I should just wait till a week or so to get an alignment?

On good news, everything seems to be ok. I drove it to Sears to try and get an alignment yesterday (the obvious off balance driving, drives straight, and no clunks), but they were not able to do it because I am too low (25" 3/4" up front and 26" on the rear GTF). There is a specialty shop maybe 25 miles away I will bring it to and have do an alignment. I was planning on doing it tommorow, but if you think I should hold out for maybe 4-7 days then I will wait. Or you don't think it will cause that much of a significant difference on tire wear if I just get it done tommorow vs when the springs settle in.

revolution337
03-21-2010, 12:08 PM
when i installed mine, i used the nut that came with the coils (without a washer) and just tightened the crap out of it. i installed mine in june of 2009 and havent had any problems. *knock on wood*

wesleyfbm
03-21-2010, 01:56 PM
wow it was really too low for them? last time i had mine aligned it was at like 24 1/2" gtf and no problem at a local tire place.

Seerlah
03-21-2010, 02:05 PM
Yeah, I didn't think it was low at all. I might try a different place tommorow, instead of the shop I was planning on taking it to. Maybe Walmart[:p]. Sears said that they could do my toe correction, but not my camber. They use one of those laser machines, and they said that it couldn;t even read my vehicle because it was to low. I had my alignment done over there before, so I know they can align an Audi. Now I know that they can't once it gets below ~26" GTF.

Lazer Viking
03-21-2010, 08:15 PM
they arent trying hard enough then.. take it to a nissan dealer, they have the lowest alignment rack available (for the gtr)

but even that was not low enough when my car was super slammed

onemoremile
03-22-2010, 10:50 AM
^That's comforting to know that. Hopefully, just running one on the bottom will not cause an issue. I remember a thread a little while ago where a person experienced clunking on his coilovers. When he took it apart, the middle hole for the mount was worn out and widened (sp?). Came to find out it was a washer issue. The new search function sucks major balls, so it is really difficult for me to find the thread and see what really happened. I do know it was because of where he placed the washer. Not sure if it were because of him placing it on the bottom or the top, only. But Lazlo said that it isn't necessary to have one on the top, so maybe the guy in that thread just did not torque the top nut down fully?

And with my CA and sway bar bushings, I did torque them with the suspension loaded. So, I am thinking things will be fine. I also noticed when I take my car to my personal mechanic, he also does not use a torque wrench. He just makes sure things are super tight.

That ovalized hole in the strut mount was from not installing the washer correctly. It goes on the top of the strut shaft and then the mount goes on over it. The washer is what keeps the top of the shaft in place. Without it the shaft goes up through the mount which renders the shock useless and beats the hell out of the hole in the mount.

Super tight is too tight. Snug plus a bit is the way to go. I've done hundreds of CA and suspension installs and have yet to have a problem related to the hardware.

onemoremile
03-22-2010, 10:53 AM
I don't see how a car could be too low to get the sensors on the wheels. They may have to raise the chassis to get at the tie rod ends but ride height doesn't have anything to do with where the wheel sensors mount up. Front camber can only be equalized side to side. As long as it is close the front is "toe and go" while the rear is super easy with a pair of eccentrics per side for camber and toe.

Seerlah
03-22-2010, 01:04 PM
That's just what they told me, that the car was too low for their laser machine to even read it. It's ok, though. I took it to Mavis and they were able to handle it. They also said that the only way they won't be able to do an alignment on my vehicle is if I am to low and they won't be able to lift my vehicle. If that's the case, they said they will recommend me to a shop that can do it.

But on the good news, she drive's well. Now, I need to get the Hotchkis sway bar set to complete my suspension. I want to get my vehicle corner balanced, also. It had me shakey going around a bend and had to apply the brakes. The car shifted to the other lane a bit. Good thing there was no vehicle there. But I was also doing like 75mph with wet pavement (I have gone faster around this corner in the past). I am thinking the Hotchkis sway bars can counteract this, and corner balancing may not be necessary, as I would want a clean look (yeah, I know that having performance is better than having a desired drop).

$teady$upreme
02-03-2011, 07:01 AM
wesleyfbm and Seerlah, what's the benefit of having the 034 strut mounts? I just got a set of ST as well as my custom valved bilsteins are blown, going to rebuild them.


That's one of the reasons I waited so long to install my coilovers. I wanted the 034 strut mounts first, and really don't know why I waited so long to order them. And the only reason I have them already, is because of the 034 Christmas sale for their Density Line products that past last season.

But on the brighter not, fronts are done. Now, onto the rear[wrench].

frameshift18
06-27-2011, 07:01 PM
wesleyfbm or Seerlah, did you ever get the 034 strut mounts installed? Also wondering whats the advantage of them?

Seerlah
06-28-2011, 10:59 AM
I installed them when I installed my coilovers. It is just a more dense (solid) rubber than an OEM or replacement unit. I just like to replace things with better units when changing them out.