Front rotor and pad replacement DIY

[eaniemeanie]

The jobs done and it was pretty easy. One clip, two bolts, (use a wire tied to the shocks to hold the caliper up). Be careful you dont pinch the brake line moving it around. Remove the brake sensor on the left wheel. The old pads are easy to get out. The rear one just pops out, the front one I tapped out with a socket extension through the hole in the caliper. Use a caliper spreader to push the pads back before taking out the rear pad. Pay attention to the brake fluid dispenser since when you push the calipers back you'll over fill the resevoir. The new pads just slip right in.

Use a T-30 socket to remove the rotor screw. A couple big hammers on the old rotor to break it loose. Then lightly sand the axle wheel face smooth to remove the corrosion. Then put it all back together! Also make sure you bed the pads according to the manufacturer. Carbotech gives you details how to.

Hopefully this will end the dreaded brake dust!

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[TCHUN003]

Nice, have you done an oil change yet? If so, does the b8 just have a canister oil filter like in the b7's? BTW I just noticed that you live in Temecula, I'm actually down there almost every weekend.

[ASU Daniel]

[up] [up] cool

[eaniemeanie]

Got the rotors!
New rotors. 30mm thick.
Min for changing rotors....28mm
2mm of wear and that's it? WOW

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http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/4366931632_030bc98c9d_b.jpg.

[eaniemeanie]

Nice, have you done an oil change yet? If so, does the b8 just have a canister oil filter like in the b7's? BTW I just noticed that you live in Temecula, I'm actually down there almost every weekend.

No I had the dealer do the oil through the Audi Care program. But I think I'll be the one doing them from now on since Audi care expired.

Why is it you're down here so often?

[dmg312]

this should be good. brake jobs are usually easy save for bleeding the brakes. Having a brake bleeder makes it a lot easier though. Way to help save $$$$

[eaniemeanie]

this should be good. brake jobs are usually easy save for bleeding the brakes. Having a brake bleeder makes it a lot easier though. Way to help save $$$$

Got one that I use to do the Porsche... You have to bleed the brakes to change the pads?

I forgot to mention that I bought Carbotech Bobcats for the pads.

[TCHUN003]

No I had the dealer do the oil through the Audi Care program. But I think I'll be the one doing them from now on since Audi care expired.

Why is it you're down here so often?

My girlfriend lives there. So did you feel like Audi Care was worth it? I know they'll ask me if I want it tomorrow when I go in, but I feel like I won't really need it.

[eaniemeanie]

My girlfriend lives there. So did you feel like Audi Care was worth it? I know they'll ask me if I want it tomorrow when I go in, but I feel like I won't really need it.

It was worth it for the fact that al I had to do was go in and have the oil etc serviced and not have to pay then since the payment was in the financing I did for the car. It's nice that you take it to the dealer so that any updates or Technical Bulletins were taken care of. I asked for an estimate on how much the 55K service was going to be ($500) because of plugs etc. So it nicer to not have to pay that every three months (10K mi.).

But I'm not sure you can get the package after the fact....

[B8_Jim]

But I'm not sure you can get the package after the fact....

You can buy Audi Care up until the 45000mi/4 year service ** but the services before you buy it are not pro-rated i.e. you still have to pay full price. So, it really only makes sense to buy it before the first service interval you would have to pay for otherwise - 15k miles here in the US.

[cory_can]

Before you install the new rotors I would be curious to know the approx. weight.

[eaniemeanie]

Before you install the new rotors I would be curious to know the approx. weight.

Can do.

[Kay15]

You are going to use the stock rotors and pads im guessing?

I think the parts guys could give me one hell of a deal but my brake pads are wearing very unevenly. Inside of the pads are gone and theoutside still have about half the pad left if not a little bit more. I am guessing that is not right?

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

You are going to use the stock rotors and pads im guessing?

I think the parts guys could give me one hell of a deal but my brake pads are wearing very unevenly. Inside of the pads are gone and theoutside still have about half the pad left if not a little bit more. I am guessing that is not right?

Sounds like a general lube issue. Fairly common. Grease everything up and you will probably notice better wear.

[DavidB8]

You are going to use the stock rotors and pads im guessing?

I think the parts guys could give me one hell of a deal but my brake pads are wearing very unevenly. Inside of the pads are gone and theoutside still have about half the pad left if not a little bit more. I am guessing that is not right?

Oh that is so not right. I had a problem like that on B5 and had my brakes done4 times in under 2 years until they finally got it fixed right. If I were you I would get the dealer to fix that problem. It is most likely the slider which is what Chris is eluding to with the grease. Problem is your rotors are shot now due to the uneven wear. I hope you get this one figured out because it cost me a small fortune on my other Audi but if I had just gone to the dealer instead of trying to find a cheaper garage I probably would have saved in the long run for sure.

[Quattrolover]

The only time you should will have to bleed the brakes is if you take the brake line off and enable air to get in. You should not have to take the brake line off. Just remove the bolts that hold on the caliper and put it to the side to remove the rotors. You will need a big C clamp and a small board to push/compress the piston back into the caliper prior to reinstalling.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

The only time you should will have to bleed the brakes is if you take the brake line off and enable air to get in. You should not have to take the brake line off. Just remove the bolts that hold on the caliper and put it to the side to remove the rotors. You will need a big C clamp and a small board to push/compress the piston back into the caliper prior to reinstalling.

Careful with that. Rear calipers require a push and twist. There are special tools required to compress the rear calipers. If you don't use them you WILL damage the internals of the caliper and you'll be buying new rear calipers. I know this thread is for front rotors/calipers but you can use the piston retracting tool for both, it really makes it easier than the cumbersome C-clamp and board method. The tools isn't costly though, and it is kind of slick IMO: Click here for the piston retracting tool (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4-Quattro-2.0T/Tools/Brake_Tools/ES9747/?salesrep=CArmbruster&utm_source=audizine&utm_medium=forum&utm_content=CArmbruster&utm_campaign=postreply).
http://www.ecstuning.com/product_library/7864/300/Brake%20Caliper%20Piston%20Tool.jpg (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4-Quattro-2.0T/Tools/Brake_Tools/ES9747/?salesrep=CArmbruster&utm_source=audizine&utm_medium=forum&utm_content=CArmbruster&utm_campaign=postreply)

[Quattrolover]

Thanks for chiming in on this. I have not done any on a Audi, just others cars. I was more addressing the bleeding the brakes issue. Thanks! I will look into the tool you speak of.

[DavidB8]

Cool tool, pretty cheap too considering what you save doing the job yourself.

[Kerwind]

"Since the VAG group introduced the ‘Electronic Parking Brake (53)’ system in 2003 it has become
standard equipment on the A6 (4F), A8 (4E) and Passat (3C) models. This increased level of
technology now demands the use of suitable diagnostic equipment to carry out routine service
procedures such as brake pad replacement and caliper removal."

Does this apply to our cars?

[eaniemeanie]

Does this apply to our cars?

I fricken hope not.

I bought Carbotech pads from PureMS. I talked to the Carbotech Rep and he said they are making them (should be made now) We'll see when they come in.

[B8_Jim]

Does this apply to our cars?

Probably - but likely just for the rear. The Electonic Parking Brake isn't on the front calipers AFAIK - only the rears. I'm assuming vag-com will put the EPB in "service" position?

[cory_can]

Can do.

Thanks.....Besides the obvious braking benefit, I'm hoping that LW rotors can have significant impact on performance. My estimate is that it'll save approx. 5lbs/corner of rotating mass.

This pig needs to keep dieting!

[eaniemeanie]

Thanks.....Besides the obvious braking benefit, I'm hoping that LW rotors can have significant impact on performance. My estimate is that it'll save approx. 5lbs/corner of rotating mass.

This pig needs to keep dieting!


True but I couldn't find any after market rotors yet! And I looked!

[Emission]

True but I couldn't find any after market rotors yet! And I looked!

Send me a PM, as I can get you several different types of aftermarket rotors... including drilled.

Like someone else said, there is no need to bleed brakes when changing pads/rotors unless the pedal is soft (air in lines) or the fluid is old (flushing).

[eaniemeanie]

Before you install the new rotors I would be curious to know the approx. weight.


21.4 lbs. each.

[eaniemeanie]

Send me a PM, as I can get you several different types of aftermarket rotors... including drilled.

Like someone else said, there is no need to bleed brakes when changing pads/rotors unless the pedal is soft (air in lines) or the fluid is old (flushing).

I already picked up the new rotors. All the after market rotor guys said they don't make them for the B8 yet, what ones can you get?

[DavidB8]

I think Adam might get upset if he see's you saying that.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?339732-NEW-prices-on-adam-s-rotors-450-f-amp-r-to-your-door!&highlight=rotors

[eaniemeanie]

Picked up the Carbotech pads today from PureMS here in Temecula.

Might change them out this week-end.

Also ordered the intermediate shaft bearing for the 911 yesterday. I'm not happy about having to work on two cars at the same time...boohoo.
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[B_Boy]

i got my new rotors from adams rotors today. Ill post some pics soon, they look sick!

[Kay15]

I heard changing the rotors is plain and simple it is the pads that need adjusting and such. Also 22lbs almost for a rotor?

Are adams rotors light weight? I have the dealership replacing my 2 fronts because one may have warped. I may have them swap the pads at the same time I only had about 25k on them. Wonder how the rear pads and rotors wear compared to the front? I heard it is about 60/40 front to rear. How long would I have to wait to service the back? The dealership suggested doing them together but i am sure thats more of a money making scheme?

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

You can visually see the wear on brake pads. The worst you have to do it pull a tire off. In the many various cars I've owned I noticed that I can go through 2 sets of front pads for 1 set of rear pads. I'm not sure about the braking bias on the B8 A4, but I would be surprised if the rears wore as fast as the fronts.

[Kay15]

Yea from what I have taken it sounds about right. I also heard you can go through about 2 sets of pads on the front on a pair of Rotors.
I have Audi replacing my Rotors for me because one was warped so I think I may just swap the pads as well and wait to do the front and rears together in another 40kms or so, but only if I can get confirmation that the backs will last as long. I am not worried about the Rotors as I am the pads.

[cory_can]

I heard changing the rotors is plain and simple it is the pads that need adjusting and such. Also 22lbs almost for a rotor?

Are adams rotors light weight? I have the dealership replacing my 2 fronts because one may have warped. I may have them swap the pads at the same time I only had about 25k on them. Wonder how the rear pads and rotors wear compared to the front? I heard it is about 60/40 front to rear. How long would I have to wait to service the back? The dealership suggested doing them together but i am sure thats more of a money making scheme?

Yup, stock rotors certainly aren't light. Most people completely overlook (or under estimate) how reducing unsprung rotational weight can have tremendous advantages to acceleration, braking and handling. It's not always about needing more power...making better use of existing power is just as beneficial.

[Kay15]

^^ Okay so how many 100's more are these LW rotors? I would love to ditch 30lbs all around if not more. I am already thinking about ditcihng the spare tire, why not I pay for CAA and if I got a flat i will use what I pay for.

[cory_can]

^^ Okay so how many 100's more are these LW rotors? I would love to ditch 30lbs all around if not more. I am already thinking about ditcihng the spare tire, why not I pay for CAA and if I got a flat i will use what I pay for.

I've seen sets of LW 2-piece front rotors for B6/B7's in the 500-600 range but I'm still searching for LW 2-piece units for the B8.

[B_Boy]

i wonder when the actually DIY will start...

[cory_can]

i wonder when the actually DIY will start...

whenever you start I guess [;)]

...had to.

[eaniemeanie]

i wonder when the actually DIY will start...


HEY! I work for a living.[mad] And to tell you the truth, the light hasn't gone on yet and I haven't checked the wear since the last time I looked. I have about 1000 miles to drive next Friday and was thinking if the breaks haven't worn out too much in the last 1000 I drove, I might wait till next week-end. OR depending on the check tomorrow, I'll be doing it this week end!!!!![wrench] you sound like my kids.[:)]

[Kay15]

Are the brakes there yet??

:)


I want to see how to swap the pads, I dont feel like paying 400 for someone to put somthing that cost me 300 in :).

[B_Boy]

HEY! I work for a living.[mad] And to tell you the truth, the light hasn't gone on yet and I haven't checked the wear since the last time I looked. I have about 1000 miles to drive next Friday and was thinking if the breaks haven't worn out too much in the last 1000 I drove, I might wait till next week-end. OR depending on the check tomorrow, I'll be doing it this week end!!!!![wrench] you sound like my kids.[:)]

hahaha i hear ya! sorry mom/dad......are we there yet? are we there yet? i wont ask again....are we there yet? :)

[Kay15]

Yet? :P ahah

[eaniemeanie]

Yup done! I'll post pics and a little write up later. I'm making lunch and having a beer for my reward. Then the kids want me to take them to the dirt trails down the road to ride their bikes.

FYI piece of cake!

[eaniemeanie]

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[eaniemeanie]

Updated first post.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

Nice show and tell, but I had to laugh. Your last line is "piece of cake" and your first picture has a tranny sitting behind your wheels on the ground.

[eaniemeanie]

You are correct! Piece of Cake compared to the rear main seal, intermediate shaft bearing retrofit, clutch, air/oil seperator bellows repair, throwout bearing fork replacement, and chain-adjustment changeout I have on the 911...... And I thought I was just going in to replace the clutch! I'm three times in what I figured I was going to spend.... ugggg.

[Kay15]

Yes please and maybe some pictures of tools used? Also how hard was it to get the pads to sit right? I heard you need a special tool to push them in or something?

[eaniemeanie]

The pads fit right in without adjustment, you can see the hangers they rest on in picture 6 above. The last photo in post 45 shows the spreader that I modified to fit into the small hole on the outside caliper face, leave the old pad in to press the caliper back so that you can fit them on the rotor. All the other tools are basic tools including a torque wrench...

I don't want to give to much detail since I'm worried that someone uses the DIY and screws up. If you're comfortable in doing the job you should figure out as you go.... it's really simple.

[Kay15]

Well some more detail may help guys get through it a little easier :) .. that Spreader is the only thing anyone would really need to look into.

[eaniemeanie]

Right! honestly it's real simple. The spreader was a whole $8 at the auto store. That's $12 in Toronto, $9 in Don Mills and $22 in Oakville..... ;)

The spreader needed to be modified because it was made to be used on a caliper that had a large opening. The Audi one doesn't have anything more than a small hole (seen in photo 2) So I had to bust off the end of the spreader and funnel it through the hole then attach the black bit on to push against the outer part of the caliper. I've got photos with arrows on the photos for you but they are on the other laptop that the wife is using to shop (damn). I'll put those in when shes not on the comp....

Ask a question and I'll answer it.

[cory_can]

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4012/4415379460_05d878e5da_o.jpg

sweet Estwing......classic....I have a couple of them.

[eaniemeanie]

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4012/4415379460_05d878e5da_o.jpg

sweet Estwing......classic....I have a couple of them.

Yeah nice tools, thanks! That one is about 7 years old. I use it out in the field and when working in the mines. Great tool, pretty darn good at breaking rotors free too! Note the marks on the rotor... I don't recommend metal on metal impacts but i was wearing safety glasses and wasn't hitting an edge or using a splintered hammer.

I remember working nights as a supervisor many moons ago and a mechanic was hammering out a pin on a 992G Cat loader. The pin fragmented and a piece the size of your fingernail broke off, went through his coat and coveralls and ended up in his gut about a half an inch deep inside. They medivaced him out because they didn't know how deep it went!

[cory_can]

Yeah nice tools, thanks! That one is about 7 years old. I use it out in the field and when working in the mines. Great tool, pretty darn good at breaking rotors free too! Note the marks on the rotor... I don't recommend metal on metal impacts but i was wearing safety glasses and wasn't hitting an edge or using a splintered hammer.

I remember working nights as a supervisor many moons ago and a mechanic was hammering out a pin on a 992G Cat loader. The pin fragmented and a pice the size of your fingernail broke off, went through his coat and coveralls and ended up in his gut about a half an inch deep inside. They medivaced him out because they didn't know how deep it went!

7 years....almost brand new :) One of mine was given to me by my father and its probably 40+ years old, leather handle is in perfect condition.....and still the first hammer I pull out.

[eaniemeanie]

I'll give you more details later I gots to go to bedz.
I've put about 500 miles on the new pads and they're great!



pad release hole
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two bolts
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pad placement
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brake pad sensor area
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Brake pad spreader (modified)
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[MiracleWhips]

I'll give you more details later I gots to go to bedz.
I've put about 500 miles on the new pads and they're great!

Particularly interested in dust and noise of these pads.

[eaniemeanie]

I'll be putting on approx 1000+ miles the next few days.....we'll know then!

[eaniemeanie]

Less dust but at low speed (in a drive through) they did squeek a bit. But they seem to have a linear or smoother braking.

[kngfisher]

what are torque specs for caliper bolts?

[coolwater]

I posted this iny my S5 Brakes thread, but maybe this location is more appropriate.
Am I getting close to needing new pads? I think it should be ok, but some articles I've read online say when you are near 1/4inch to change the pads.
Yellow line measures about 3/8 inch and X marks where the wear sensor pin is I think....

http://i55.tinypic.com/k1yl34.jpg

-cW

[eaniemeanie]

I posted this iny my S5 Brakes thread, but maybe this location is more appropriate.
Am I getting close to needing new pads? I think it should be ok, but some articles I've read online say when you are near 1/4inch to change the pads.
Yellow line measures about 3/8 inch and X marks where the wear sensor pin is I think....

http://i55.tinypic.com/k1yl34.jpg
IMHO I would say that you won't need brake pads until the pad thickness is the same as the metal backing that the pads are built on. You are close. ( See Post #44 Picture#4 for reference)
I still didn't have the brake wear light come on but changed the pads under the recommendation of the dealer (stealer). It was right before the wear light would have came on after looking at it.

But I will be pulling these pads off next month since they are becoming a big problem with noise and vibration. I'd rather spend $110+ on stock and live with the dust compared to $180+ and the fricken squeal. (The wife is complaining about it so I'm screwed, add the fact that for a while I've been creeping along on the 91 in traffic and have to deal with the squeal and vibrations every other day... ugg)

[coolwater]

I ordered some posi-quiet pads to replace my fronts. Only $65.00, seems to have some positive review. No squeak, close to OEM performance and less dust.

-cW

[simplicity]

Anyone has the torque specs on the 2 front caliper bolts?

[eaniemeanie]

Anyone has the torque specs on the 2 front caliper bolts?

Call sunset parts in Oregon, they'll tell you.

[simplicity]

Assuming we're talking about the same bolts, it should be torqued to 42 ft-lb correction: 140 ft-lb.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/453140-DIY-Write-up-StopTech-ST-60-BBK

[martian421]

this might be a dumb question, but is there a measurement (in MM) where the brake pad can go up to until it is required to be changed?

i.e. if i have about 3MM left on my brake pad, should they be changed?

[simplicity]

this might be a dumb question, but is there a measurement (in MM) where the brake pad can go up to until it is required to be changed?

i.e. if i have about 3MM left on my brake pad, should they be changed?

There should brake sensors to tell you if they need to be changed but that being said a rule I go by is to check if the pad material is less than the thickness of the pad back plate then it's about time to change....this way I dont need to replace the brake sensor.

[martian421]

does the same rule apply for rotors?

[simplicity]

No, you can measure the caliper or replace it every other pad change....

[Emission]

There should brake sensors to tell you if they need to be changed but that being said a rule I go by is to check if the pad material is less than the thickness of the pad back plate then it's about time to change....this way I dont need to replace the brake sensor.

+1

I replace when the material is just a little thinner than the backing plate. You want to try to save the sensor (to keep costs down).

I only replace rotors when they are heavily scored or they measure too thin (with calipers).

- Mike

[Smeghead]

Assuming we're talking about the same bolts, it should be torqued to 42 ft-lb.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/453140-DIY-Write-up-StopTech-ST-60-BBK

Are you sure? That thread said 150 something. And it felt like way more than 42 when I was removing the caliper

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

[simplicity]

Are you sure? That thread said 150 something. And it felt like way more than 42 when I was removing the caliper

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

You are correct, 140 ft-lb for the caliper bracket bolt.

[Smeghead]

Damn, what a bitch that was. After 40000 miles everything was seized pretty good. Have nice new brakes on now though, so all's good. Thanks for the write up OP.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

[Smeghead]

One other thing. When I pulled my old pads there was a shim behind the front pad, is that supposed to stay or go? Seems to get in the way of the pad seating properly.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

[Emission]

One other thing. When I pulled my old pads there was a shim behind the front pad, is that supposed to stay or go? Seems to get in the way of the pad seating properly.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

The answer is... sometimes. I have seen replacement pads with shims (additional metal plates) manufactured into the pad backing... while other times I have to use the shim again. It all depends on whether you are going OEM or aftermarket pads.

- Mike

[Ox2gen]

Very good DIY writeup. I'm about to attempt a rotor/pad install myself and have some questions about the torque settings...

I see the two 20mm bolts that holds the caliper in place has to be torqued to 140 ft-lbs per factory spec, are there any other bolt pieces that must be torqued to a certain setting?
Like the 30-torx for the rotor, any specific torque setting required there?

My other question is about the "no-brake-squeal" lubricant. Where do you lube up? Just the surface area between the caliper and pad?

Really looking forward to doing this myself but I'm a noob when it comes to brake replacement and want to do it properly and correctly the first time around.
Any input would be greatly appreciated [:D]

[Emission]

Very good DIY writeup. I'm about to attempt a rotor/pad install myself and have some questions about the torque settings...

I see the two 20mm bolts that holds the caliper in place has to be torqued to 140 ft-lbs per factory spec, are there any other bolt pieces that must be torqued to a certain setting?
Like the 30-torx for the rotor, any specific torque setting required there?

My other question is about the "no-brake-squeal" lubricant. Where do you lube up? Just the surface area between the caliper and pad?

Really looking forward to doing this myself but I'm a noob when it comes to brake replacement and want to do it properly and correctly the first time around.
Any input would be greatly appreciated [:D]

The small Torx is just used to hold the rotor in place (so it doesn't fall off) before installing the wheel. Hand-tight is fine, and I put some anti-seize on it.

I use the 'brake lube' where the caliper touches the brake pad. That is where you are most likely to get a vibration (aka squeal).

- Mike

[Ox2gen]

The spreader needed to be modified because it was made to be used on a caliper that had a large opening. The Audi one doesn't have anything more than a small hole (seen in photo 2) So I had to bust off the end of the spreader and funnel it through the hole then attach the black bit on to push against the outer part of the caliper.



I bought one of these spreaders from autozone. How did you bust off the end of the spreader?
Anyone else use something different to compress the caliper piston? [confused]

[Emission]

I bought one of these spreaders from autozone. How did you bust off the end of the spreader?
Anyone else use something different to compress the caliper piston? [confused]

I used a spreader from a Harbor Freight kit. Worked okay, but slow.

- Mike

[AdrianLee]

Does anyone know the torque specs for the Carrier to hub bolts, torque spec for the two caliper slide bolts and the torque spec for the 4 torque bolts on the caliper itself? Any info would be much appreciated.

[Harpbrar]

I am doing the front rotors and brakes tomorrow and wanted to know if you can reuse the brake sensor if it hasn't tripped yet, and can we push the piston back with a c-clamp or do I need the special tool. Thanks in advance.

[jhelome]

you need the brake tool from pep boys its free to rent...

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[jhelome]

and yes u can re use the sensor

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[AdrianLee]

Does anyone know the torque specs for the Carrier to hub bolts (Front and Rear), torque spec for the two caliper to carrier bolts (front and rear) and the torque spec for the 4 spline bolts on the caliper itself to connect the halves? Any info would be much appreciated.

[gunsmoker]

Yeah, I also want to know the torque specs for the two pairs of carrier bolts because I'll be switching to S4 carriers. The spec for the carrier to caliper bolt was mentioned as 140, which seems a bit much. I can't imagine what the larget carrier to hub bolt will be speced to.

[AdrianLee]

I finally got the dealership to give me the torque specs, so for anyone doing their brakes here are all the torque specs needed. Hope this helps everyone


Fastener Tightening Specifications

Brake Pedal Bracket to Body Nut - 8 nm
Brake Pedal Mounting Pin to Bracket Bolt - 8 nm
Electromechanical Parking Brake Control Module Nut - 3 nm
Electromechanical Parking Brake Motor to Rear Brake Caliper Bolt - 12 nm
Front Brake Caliper to Brake Carrier Bolt - 30 nm
Front Brake Carrier to Wheel Bearing Housing Bolt 1 - 196 nm
Front Brake Line Connection to Brake Caliper - 20 nm
Front Brake Pad Bolt - 5 nm
Front Cover Plate Bolt - 10 nm
Gas Pedal Module to Brake Pedal Bracket Bolt - 8 nm
Rear Brake Caliper to Brake Carrier Bolt 1 - 35 nm
Rear Brake Carrier to Wheel Bearing Housing Bolt - 100 nm + 90 degrees
Rear Brake Hose in Brake Caliper - 19 nm
Rear Brake Hose to Brake Pipe Line - 12 nm
Rear Brake Pad Bolt - 5 nm

• 1 Always replace after removal.

[Tineo]

...I'll be switching to S4 carriers. The spec for the carrier to caliper bolt was mentioned as 140, which seems a bit much. ....
hi gunsmoker, i will upgrade to s4 calipers too. [wrench]

30 Nm is the torque spec for this bolts

[gunsmoker]

hi gunsmoker, i will upgrade to s4 calipers too. [wrench]

30 Nm is the torque spec for this bolts

It looks like it's 196 Nm. 30 Nm is the carrier-to-caliper bolts torque. I also ordered replacement bolts for the carrier-to-hub-housing bolt as AdrianLee says.
It has a locking washer so it makes sense to replace it.

[Metorn]

How do you remove calipers? OP says remove 2 bolts, which look like 21mm carrier bolts.
Will it release the caliper or you need to undo caliper slider pins/bolts as in older models?

[Limey]

Which bolts do I need for the S5 carrier to hub? These ones?
Self Locking Bolt (M12x1.5x62)
Self Locking Bolt (M12x1.5x38)

[gunsmoker]

Which bolts do I need for the S5 carrier to hub? These ones?
Self Locking Bolt (M12x1.5x62)
Self Locking Bolt (M12x1.5x38)

^^^ These two are for the rear carrier.
The 2 bolts for the front carrier are of the same type:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4-Quattro-2.0T/Braking/View_All/ES472036/

[Metorn]

How do you remove calipers? OP says remove 2 bolts, which look like 21mm carrier bolts.
Will it release the caliper or you need to undo caliper slider pins/bolts as in older models?
Answering my own question :) 21mm are enough to remove caliper with the bracket. However it is possible to take 2x13mm bolts first to remove the caliper/pads only. It makes much easier to remove the remaining 21mm-s - as it provides a clear access.

[bsully1850]

Hi, does anyone know where the brake sensor is suppose to be installed? When I took my caliper off the sensor just popped off the bake somewhere.

[ricktsd]

i've gotten the calipers off, and removed the T30 torx, but cant get the rotor off for the life of me. any suggestions? ive been banging at it with a hammer for an hour with no success. it's not budging.

[ricktsd]

Hi, does anyone know where the brake sensor is suppose to be installed? When I took my caliper off the sensor just popped off the bake somewhere.

it slides into a groove on the inner brake pad.

[bsully1850]

i've gotten the calipers off, and removed the T30 torx, but cant get the rotor off for the life of me. any suggestions? ive been banging at it with a hammer for an hour with no success. it's not budging.

I had one rotor that would not come off, I sprayed some WD-40 around the center, let it sit for about 10 mins and started hitting it again. After a few more blows it came right off.

[ricktsd]

I had one rotor that would not come off, I sprayed some WD-40 around the center, let it sit for about 10 mins and started hitting it again. After a few more blows it came right off.

yea, i eventually did the same thing. too bad the rotors are too worn for resurfacing. now i need to buy some rotors.

[Tm030512]

Subscribed...planning on doing brakes

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[cuda2000]

I'm in the middle of replacing pads and rotors. Found this diagram, doesn't really help me at the moment but might help someone.
Right now I can't get the rotor off, I hit the heck out of it with rubber mallet, but gave up. I put some PB Blaster penetrant on it and left it over night, hopefully it will come off now, otherwise its 5 pound hammer time.
I will make a video when I do the left side.
Diagram:
http://www.justanswer.com/audi/65rqk-audi-a4-hi-looking-installation-instruction-replace.html

[A4BGP]

No need to hammer the crap out of everything.

Use a nut and a bolt. Put the nut on the inside of the caliper hanger bracket mounting points and feed the bolt from the other side. Tighten the bolt until it makes contact with the disc while holding the nut with a wrench. Snug the bolt and watch the disc pop off. If it's really stuck on there, rotate the disc 180deg and repeat.

[cuda2000]

I finished the job today on my 2010 Audi A4 Quattro, and made a video of it.
http://youtu.be/i00ZIJSOA8w

Hardest part for me was the rotor on the passenger side was really stuck on, but PB Blaster did its job and I didn't have to hit it too hard. The driver's side was not stuck on.
Other than that, the outboard pads were GLUED to the caliper, very difficult to pry loose. I have no idea why there were glued on, this is from the factory, I bought the car new and just replaced the pads and rotors at 37,000 miles.

I used $34 Duralast Rotors from Autozone part #45600 and Ceramic Akebono pads EUR1322 with the sensor included for $84 from Advance Auto Parts.
TOTAL cost $179 vs $650 the dealer wanted! I saw no difference in the Chinese rotors vs the factory ones (see video). First test drive had no issues. I will update if I come across any issues.

[sawy3r]

Nice work cuda2000!

I also just completed this job today, and found the silicon / glue on the outer pad too... Was quite a challenge to pry loose, plus a pain to clean up the face (chisel, brake cleaner, wipe, sandpaper... Repeat x1,000).
I went for Ferodo DS Performance pads (FDS4044), and DBA T2 slotted rotors (DBA 2822S). Not a whole lot of difference yet, but I've only put approximately 15km on them so far. That being said, I think they do bite a little better...

I lost the clip on the pad wear sensor, and a new sensor did not come with the Ferodos. I purchased the replacement sensor (8K0615121) from Audi for $66 AUD. This can be had from ECS Tuning for $39.38 USD for the genuine article, down to $6.21 for the cheapest aftermarket part. I couldn't wait for the shipping time (nor be bothered to pull the wheel off again just replace the sensor), so took the local option.

All in, took me about 8 hours... Far too long, but next time it will be a lot faster. Now to do the rears..

[sawy3r]

I'm in the middle of replacing pads and rotors. Found this diagram, doesn't really help me at the moment but might help someone.
Right now I can't get the rotor off, I hit the heck out of it with rubber mallet, but gave up. I put some PB Blaster penetrant on it and left it over night, hopefully it will come off now, otherwise its 5 pound hammer time.
I will make a video when I do the left side.
Diagram:
http://www.justanswer.com/audi/65rqk-audi-a4-hi-looking-installation-instruction-replace.html

My left I had to give a decent few whacks... I started with a mallet then noticed OP pics of the metal hammer, gave it a few quick cracks with a mini-sledge and it jumped right off.

[kt883]

I know were talking about fronts but with rear, if we use vcds will we not need a piston retractor for that?

I have a cheap princess auto retractor but would I be able to use that for the fronts?

http://s10.postimg.org/4qggfkflx/24400.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4qggfkflx/)

[booost]

I know were talking about fronts but with rear, if we use vcds will we not need a piston retractor for that?

I have a cheap princess auto retractor but would I be able to use that for the fronts?

http://s10.postimg.org/4qggfkflx/24400.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4qggfkflx/)

Yes you can use just a retractor on the fronts. On the rears, VCDS didn't open the caliper enough for me to get the new pads on so I used the retractor to open them up a little more and did not have issues. I highly suggest using VCDS on the rears, there are reports of people damaging the calipers/motor doing the swap without it.

[drunkandslurred]

I need help, I replaced the front brakes a few years back with no problems. This time around the calipers will not come off the rotors. I removed the 2 21mm bolts and the calipers move up and down freely from the rotors but they will not actually come off the rotors. Any suggestions?

[drunkandslurred]

Nevermind got it. Inserted a screwdriver from the back in the gap and compressed it in.

[sawy3r]

Nevermind got it. Inserted a screwdriver from the back in the gap and compressed it in.

Haha just saw your first post and was about to reply saying to use a crow bar, or something, to separate the pads / compress the piston to get the pads to clear the lips on the rotor.

Took me a while to work it out when I did mine! Glad you worked it out :)

[Acme]

Hello guys.

I'm about to order rotors and pads for my 2013 sedan... Are these the same for all B8 and B8.5?? 320mm rotors and same brakes for all years between 2009 and 2016? Looks like it but someone hinted that it's not the case, so I'm not 100% sure......

Thanks!

[BeerBrent]

Did my front and rear rotors and pads this past weekend. First time on the Audi. Very easy. Thanks for all the info in this thread.
This guy's video was helpful also.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmKpIJY7RbE