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abedel2
01-21-2010, 01:17 AM
hello everyone, I recently had to change my ignition control module due to my old one failing, after I changed the ICM, the car runs and operates normal except for when I engage the turbo, what happens is the car would shake and the turbo would engage and kind of lag for a second before the turbo starts to run normal again, it usually happens on while im on the highway, any ideas or help would much be appreciated
thanks

danphines
01-21-2010, 06:29 AM
hard to tell from the description you gave. try changing your plugs.

abedel2
01-21-2010, 03:39 PM
I changed my spark plugs and ignition coils when I changed the Ignition controle module, I first changed the spark plugs and the coils becouse the car started to shake pretty hard and the check engine light would start to blink indicating there was a misfire in the second cylinder, after asking some questions and doing some research online I find out the ICM was at fault and changed it
the problem started to happen after changing these parts, Also when these parts were changed I checked to see if there was a leak somewhere in the vac lines and from what i could tell there wasnt any leaks

abedel2
01-25-2010, 01:50 PM
The check engine light was on and I went to a friend a and had them read it, there were at least 8 different codes from multiple misfirings of the 2nd and 3rd cylinder, air vac leak and some others, when changed the ICM and the other parts I forget to clear all the fault codes, so I had my friend clear them out and the engine light was gone, after that I drove on the highway to test it out and everything performed the way it should including the turbo, this worked out for the majority of the day until when i was driving on the street the check engine light came on again, I wasnt engaging the turbo or anything like that just driving 30 miles, so when the engine light came on again I decided to go on the highway and make sure the problem wasnt the turbo, but when engaged the turbo on the highway the same problem i had prevously occured again, the car would shake for a second and then the turbo would engage, the other thing i noticed is the check enigine light would blink when the turbo is fully engaged, I think it has something to do with the wiring becouse of the car performing normally after clearing the fault codes another reason that makes think it is wiring is becouce some time during the day after clearing the codes, the red oil light camr on when started the car but went away after blinking 2 times, I checked to see if there was any leaks and there were any

abedel2
01-25-2010, 01:51 PM
hard to tell from the description you gave. try changing your plugs.

The check engine light was on and I went to a friend a and had them read it, there were at least 8 different codes from multiple misfirings of the 2nd and 3rd cylinder, air vac leak and some others, when changed the ICM and the other parts I forget to clear all the fault codes, so I had my friend clear them out and the engine light was gone, after that I drove on the highway to test it out and everything performed the way it should including the turbo, this worked out for the majority of the day until when i was driving on the street the check engine light came on again, I wasnt engaging the turbo or anything like that just driving 30 miles, so when the engine light came on again I decided to go on the highway and make sure the problem wasnt the turbo, but when engaged the turbo on the highway the same problem i had prevously occured again, the car would shake for a second and then the turbo would engage, the other thing i noticed is the check enigine light would blink when the turbo is fully engaged, I think it has something to do with the wiring becouse of the car performing normally after clearing the fault codes another reason that makes think it is wiring is becouce some time during the day after clearing the codes, the red oil light camr on when started the car but went away after blinking 2 times, I checked to see if there was any leaks and there were any

dcampana
01-25-2010, 02:02 PM
it may be the waste gate arm or bracket which is causing over boosting and surging issues. do you have a boost gauge? if so, what are the idle vacuum readings and also what is the peak boost you are seeing?

any weird noises? could be the waste gate flapper as well. are there any mods on your car or is it stock?

hernandez3011
01-25-2010, 02:43 PM
Sounds like symptoms of a bad MAF sensor and/or hole somewhere in your turbo inlet pipe.

abedel2
01-27-2010, 12:04 AM
it may be the waste gate arm or bracket which is causing over boosting and surging issues. do you have a boost gauge? if so, what are the idle vacuum readings and also what is the peak boost you are seeing?

any weird noises? could be the waste gate flapper as well. are there any mods on your car or is it stock?

my car is stock, and there isnt any wierd noises when im driving or engaging the boost, just the shaking , i dont have boost guage but ill go tommorow to friends who has one and check the readings, the peak boost i get when the turbo is engaged in rpm goes up to 6.5 to 7.0 rpm the other thing i noticed is when it reaches those levels is the check engine light starts to blink but goes back to solid when the rpm is lower, if i engage the turbo lightly and only have it go up to 4 rpm, the car wont shake, but its when im fully engaging the boost is when the car starts to shake and the light would blink

walky_talky20
01-27-2010, 12:35 AM
Flashing CEL definitely indicates a misfire. If it is only happening at a high RPM like that it is probably a faulty/dirty MAF or possibly a boost/vacuum leak. You should probably try cleaning that with some MAF cleaner to see if that helps.

Also, check the codes and post them here. You'll get much more accurate help if you provide the actual codes, rather than just the symptoms. If you can, get the "fuel trims" from measuring block 032 as well.

abedel2
02-01-2010, 01:03 PM
thanks guys for all the help, i had been working like crazy lately and hadnt had a chance to post a reply, I had disconnected the MAF wire and tried the boost after that, it is the MAF, and im going to clean it before trying to buy a new part as they are about 250 at the stores, again thanks for all the help

abedel2
02-01-2010, 01:04 PM
thanks guys for all the help, i had been working like crazy lately and hadnt had a chance to post a reply, I had disconnected the MAF wire and tried the boost after that, it is the MAF, and im going to clean it before trying to buy a new part as they are about 250 at the stores, again thanks for all the help

flynnr
02-01-2010, 01:10 PM
did you MAKE SURE to gap your plugs to .028?? i had a similar problem with flashing CEL... it was the spark plugs were gapped at like .36 (not ok)

try that

nagle10
02-01-2010, 01:19 PM
did you MAKE SURE to gap your plugs to .028?? i had a similar problem with flashing CEL... it was the spark plugs were gapped at like .36 (not ok)

try that

He said his car was stock. If its not even chipped .028 is probably to close a gap. I would do like .032