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spinall4
01-20-2010, 05:59 PM
is there a sticky for this as far as what was taken out, and what items weigh, etc...

danphines
01-20-2010, 06:24 PM
not that i know of. ill start you off though

1. spare tire
2. rear seats
3. go on a diet!

h4robkr123
01-20-2010, 06:58 PM
No real sticky behind it, but it all depends on your goals with the car. From dropping the spare to a complete interior gut if you are only using it as a track car.

walky_talky20
01-20-2010, 07:05 PM
Then you can start replacing panels with carbon fiber. CF hood, trunk lid, and sunroof panel (delete the entire sunroof, motor, etc). If you have power seats, or even the regular seats, they're quite heavy too.

$teady$upreme
01-20-2010, 07:47 PM
I love this thread, please show us what you did. As of now i did very minimal, Sparco seat, no spare, no trunk mat (that thing is heavy). I can't remove rear seats since it's a law for sedan.

soundspeedstyle
01-20-2010, 07:57 PM
I thought the manual stock seats were light... I have some Acura NSX leather motor seats I was going to trade for Sparco seats but I was told the stock ones we have are light as hell anyway so there is no real point.

walky_talky20
01-20-2010, 08:04 PM
I thought the manual stock seats were light... I have some Acura NSX leather motor seats I was going to trade for Sparco seats but I was told the stock ones we have are light as hell anyway so there is no real point.

You are probably right. I think I was remembering removing some manual Beetle, not A4, seats. They seemed unnecessarily heavy. But yeah, power seats would be worth swapping out.

soundspeedstyle
01-20-2010, 08:34 PM
definetly... idk where for reference but i read somewhere on here that the motor seats are 75-82lbs... Sorry for no reference link

andyrew
01-20-2010, 08:37 PM
What are your goals? What is the purpose of the car?



Makes a difference...

We'll tell ya from there.

soundspeedstyle
01-20-2010, 08:43 PM
I'd say for now just:
Ditch the spare and trunk mat
Pick up some manual seats
CF hood and trunk
LW wheels

I wouldn't go anyfurther if this is your daily driver though. Ya still wanna rep the luxury look of Audi ;)

I was thinking about going with CF Hood, Trunk, and Doors... but just the doors your looking at $1,200+ and idk cf doors just seems too fragile. I would be pissed if I pay out the ass like that and it gets cracked or f***ing door dinged in the parking lot and spiderwebs it.... that plus thats hella black lol

But if its a track car... gut the whole thing lol why not

lowandslow4now
01-20-2010, 08:49 PM
If you want to do alot of weight reduction look up mike hoods old posts he did carbon fiber doors hood trunk etc. user name Mike-2ptzero.

andyrew
01-20-2010, 10:57 PM
Heres the thing about ditching the spare. If he's going to keep the car as a autox car or street car, or even a track car, then he needs to have some weight in the back, Yes removal of it up high is all fine and dandy, but down low it is needed. Our cars are really front heavy, adding weight or keeping as much weight in the back is really important to keeping the cars balance and tossability. Its a little known secret that on my car whenever I go autoxing, I KEEP the spare in place. Sure I might take the back seats out, but thats in the middle of the car.

We need to know what this one ringer wants to do with his car before we all go into detail about weight removal.

gmx
01-21-2010, 12:18 AM
Mine are mostly keeping weight distribution in mind (ie keep the spare etc).

lightweight battery
SMFW [:p]
light wheels
RS4 front knuckle conversion (or get B6 ones to work)
Two peice rotors
Monobloc alloy Caliper

spinall4
01-21-2010, 08:42 AM
its a 2nd dd and also a weekend toy... Im more into 1/4 than auto-x events though...

I know spare/floormats/first aid kit/triangle/cd changer etc... The quick stuff i can do right before heading out to the track but what is some more permanent stuff that isnt visual or will make my audi look like shit... IMO c/f panels look horrible on an audi sedan... I dont really care all that much about handling so things like sway bars and crap i would delete if possible... Also what about the stock 15" sport rims on my 99.5 what do those weigh? Anybody delete their p/s? How hard is it to turn on the streets? I know my neon was a breeze but that was 2200 lbs with me in it... Oh and what about this c/f drive shaft i heard about on the 97 a4's is that worth the time and $$$???

soundspeedstyle
01-21-2010, 09:41 AM
I'm more 1/4 also but i love handling on the back roads :)

Kyle H
01-21-2010, 10:05 AM
AC delete, open downpipe (stock exhaust is HEAVY!), cf sunroof delete....

anmagro
01-21-2010, 11:27 AM
I like this thread. How much does the sun roof delete save you?

And trunk mat? You meen the carpet? Thats heavy? What is it like 5 pounds?

terraflata
01-21-2010, 11:59 AM
Don't go LW Battery just move it to the trunk. Hood, Fenders and bumper could be a good place to remove weight. Lighter front brakes. AC Delete (I never used it). Lighter wheels and tires.

You can also just gut the things completely and end up with something like this:

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2590.JPG


Or not....

Kyle H
01-21-2010, 12:06 PM
Good call on moving the battery. Just make sure you go with a dry cell or a real vented battery box... also, if you gut it that much, you may want to improvise a gauge cluster and a steering wheel [:p]


I like this thread. How much does the sun roof delete save you?

And trunk mat? You meen the carpet? Thats heavy? What is it like 5 pounds?
I think ~30lbs or something if you take the motors and rails out.

terraflata
01-21-2010, 12:20 PM
Good call on moving the battery. Just make sure you go with a dry cell or a real vented battery box... also, if you gut it that much, you may want to improvise a gauge cluster and a steering wheel [:p]


I think ~30lbs or something if you take the motors and rails out.

Steering wheel? Necessary....meh! LOL

This car will only have a dash, steering wheel, shifter and seat to start it's life, I got plans for the interior, but back to the thread.

andyrew
01-21-2010, 12:22 PM
5 lbs might not sound like a lot, but you do 5 lbs here, 5 lbs there 2lbs here.. All the little things add up to big numbers.

If the car was NOT a street car here are the things that you could delete/ bolt off.

Rear seats 35
spare tire/ trunk mat 45
Carpet 20
Pass seat 40
Sunroof 30
Center console and dash 75
A/C control and ducting 50
Stereo and speakers and wiring 25
Door pannels 20
Power windows/glass 75
sound insulation 50
headlights, tail lights, and wiring 50
Cruise control 4
Bumper supports 30
Exhaust 30
Engine plastics 5
Fender liners 4
Emergency brake handle and lines 5
Headliner and similar 10
total 603

Now the things you can replace to make lighter
Hood 40
trunk 40
bumpers 40
fenders 10
doors 100
wheels 40
seat 25
battery 20
Gas tank 10
Im sure im missing some
total 285

but you get the idea. ALL NUMBERS ARE A GUESS PULLED OUT OF MY HEAD, PROBABLY WAY OFF, WAY HIGH.

So, you get the point. Basically figure what you can and can not live without and go from there.

Good luck, In ~ a year i'll be putting my A4 on the chopping blocks to make the lightest A4. I might do some serious fabrication, aka roadster/tube chassis, but who knows.

Altech75
01-21-2010, 12:40 PM
If you have a FMIC you can get a radiator from one of the 2.8 B5's and use that since it doesn't use the radiator support n' whatnot as intake plumbing. Someone else did it (may have been a B6) and they saved quite a bit. It also takes it away from the very front end so it's def a good thing. A sunroof delete is also a very good idea since it gets rid of extra weight and removes it from the very top of the car, lowering it's center of gravity.

EuroDriven
01-21-2010, 01:05 PM
5 lbs might not sound like a lot, but you do 5 lbs here, 5 lbs there 2lbs here.. All the little things add up to big numbers.

If the car was NOT a street car here are the things that you could delete/ bolt off.

Rear seats 35
spare tire/ trunk mat 45
Carpet 20
Pass seat 40
Sunroof 30
Center console and dash 75
A/C control and ducting 50
Stereo and speakers and wiring 25
Door pannels 20
Power windows/glass 75
sound insulation 50
headlights, tail lights, and wiring 50
Cruise control 4
Bumper supports 30
Exhaust 30
Engine plastics 5
Fender liners 4
Emergency brake handle and lines 5
Headliner and similar 10
total 603

Now the things you can replace to make lighter
Hood 40
trunk 40
bumpers 40
fenders 10
doors 100
wheels 40
seat 25
battery 20
Gas tank 10
Im sure im missing some
total 285

but you get the idea. ALL NUMBERS ARE A GUESS PULLED OUT OF MY HEAD, PROBABLY WAY OFF, WAY HIGH.

So, you get the point. Basically figure what you can and can not live without and go from there.

Good luck, In ~ a year i'll be putting my A4 on the chopping blocks to make the lightest A4. I might do some serious fabrication, aka roadster/tube chassis, but who knows.

Not to mention the money you can make from the first list to buy things from the second list, (and again more money from the oem parts!)

Add ALL interior plastics to that as well. 1 pound here and there for all the trim and bam you got like 50 pounds.

headliner, AC pump, AC plumbing, AC condenser, (lighter serpentine belt!), trunk struts, hood struts, hood latch, put in a fuel cell, drop the gas tank, make all your under hood fluids minimal, small few ounce container of washer fluid, (my subie holds 1 gallon of it!! thats like 8 pounds alteast)etc then start to look at things and see what you can start to cut.

I tried to find the anorexic STI thread on google, but am not a member of iwsti and couldn't find a link through nasioc, so if anyone has the link please post it.

Basically, referring to ^ a guy took basically EVERYTHING out of his sti and weighed everything and figured out what he can shave weight off of. Think small...VERY small. Things like child seat anchors under the rear seat, sound deadening in doors, the hard rubber sound deadening on the floor, the glove box, things like that. Look at brackets and see if you can cut parts off of them (in a safe way of course) The guy took weight out 1/4 pound at a time.

If you buy carbon fiber replacement parts, remember paint weighs something...titanium bolts are a good thing too. They are what like half the weight? Think about if you replaced EVERY bolt with a titanium one. That would have to be a good chunk right there. Look and see if you can get aluminum replacement parts as well.

-John

terraflata
01-21-2010, 03:15 PM
Not to mention the money you can make from the first list to buy things from the second list, (and again more money from the oem parts!)

Add ALL interior plastics to that as well. 1 pound here and there for all the trim and bam you got like 50 pounds.

headliner, AC pump, AC plumbing, AC condenser, (lighter serpentine belt!), trunk struts, hood struts, hood latch, put in a fuel cell, drop the gas tank, make all your under hood fluids minimal, small few ounce container of washer fluid, (my subie holds 1 gallon of it!! thats like 8 pounds alteast)etc then start to look at things and see what you can start to cut.

I tried to find the anorexic STI thread on google, but am not a member of iwsti and couldn't find a link through nasioc, so if anyone has the link please post it.

Basically, referring to ^ a guy took basically EVERYTHING out of his sti and weighed everything and figured out what he can shave weight off of. Think small...VERY small. Things like child seat anchors under the rear seat, sound deadening in doors, the hard rubber sound deadening on the floor, the glove box, things like that. Look at brackets and see if you can cut parts off of them (in a safe way of course) The guy took weight out 1/4 pound at a time.

If you buy carbon fiber replacement parts, remember paint weighs something...titanium bolts are a good thing too. They are what like half the weight? Think about if you replaced EVERY bolt with a titanium one. That would have to be a good chunk right there. Look and see if you can get aluminum replacement parts as well.

-John

The guy with the anorexic STi is a friend of mine (well met him a couple times and he uses my friends garage to store his car). You forgot to mention his car still has a full interior. He even took out the handbrake system but was disspointed when he weighed it all and barely took off anything. That guy is obsessed with weight. We spent a couple hours talking cars and he told me everything he did! Apparently he has a -4lb race battery.

Replacing all the bolts with titanium ones would cost a bloody fortune though, LOL.

spinall4
01-21-2010, 03:30 PM
Now the things you can replace to make lighter
bumpers 40


What do you replace bumpers with?[confused]

gmx
01-21-2010, 03:33 PM
If you have a FMIC you can get a radiator from one of the 2.8 B5's and use that since it doesn't use the radiator support n' whatnot as intake plumbing. Someone else did it (may have been a B6) and they saved quite a bit. It also takes it away from the very front end so it's def a good thing. A sunroof delete is also a very good idea since it gets rid of extra weight and removes it from the very top of the car, lowering it's center of gravity.

good point.
Have a link to it by any chance?

andyrew
01-21-2010, 03:37 PM
What do you replace bumpers with?[confused]

Fiberglass w/ no reinforcement bar.

Like I said you have to outweight the pro's with the cons. This is probably one of those mods that doesnt make sense to do on a street car.

OMEGA SUPREME
01-21-2010, 07:54 PM
I have been doing some research on this... I upgraded to a lightweight battery. 17bls. Saved me about 23 lbs right off the bat. Next will be upgrading the front seats... there are some nice Recaros that wiegh in at about 25lbs... where mine are manual and weigh about 50 lbs each. I have an avant, so i take my back seats out which is about 75lbs. Carbon hood should also shave off about 30lbs. Custom exhaust with test pipe should net you about 20-30 lbs. So right there i will have saved just about 200lbs... with stuff that can be bolted in.[up] I also have some OZ ultraleggeras... same weight as my stock 16's.

viceprp
01-21-2010, 08:35 PM
I took out all the change in my car and it was right around 5lbs. Cashed it in for bills[up] $15.27

EuroDriven
01-22-2010, 07:07 AM
This makes me wanna finish my car even more now so I can start weight reduc.

I want to take out the spare and relocated the battery to where the spare is in the rear, and then maybe move a few things around the engine bay and start to tuck behind the front firewall. I want to keep a fully stock interior because I want a nice super fast super luxury car.

-John

Altech75
01-22-2010, 12:55 PM
This makes me wanna finish my car even more now so I can start weight reduc.

I want to take out the spare and relocated the battery to where the spare is in the rear, and then maybe move a few things around the engine bay and start to tuck behind the front firewall. I want to keep a fully stock interior because I want a nice super fast super luxury car.

-John

You need to factor in the fact that the cables weigh something as well, and it has to be a rather heavy duty cable too. Someone actually found out that it added more weight relocating the battery in the back. It may remove the weight from the front n' all but if you were serious about weight reduction and balancing your car I don't see why you wouldn't put it where your passenger seat it.

JEmm
01-22-2010, 05:53 PM
ABS delete. Not sure how much it would weigh after the cables and all the wiring but you definitely don't need it on a race car. Take out the whole windshield washer and wiper assembly (as long as you really don't plan on driving it when it rains, if at all on the street). I know Rob did that, sure it saves some weight. Everything else I know of has basically been covered already...

O yea, I didn't see this but it might have been covered, lwfw. Probably should save you 7-14 lbs (stock is 22 lbs iirc ??) pounds depending on how aggressive of a fw you really want to go. And it's weight loss exactly where you want it!

B5A4Kevin
01-22-2010, 06:20 PM
not to mention rotational mass reduction is more effective that static weight reduction

onemoremile
01-22-2010, 10:44 PM
Look at it the other way. Think of a bare chassis and what it needs to run. Then to make it street legal. Then to make it nice.

andyrew
01-23-2010, 12:04 AM
Look at it the other way. Think of a bare chassis and what it needs to run. Then to make it street legal. Then to make it nice.

This is what Im going to do, minus the "make it nice".

gmx
01-23-2010, 05:54 AM
does anyone make a lightweight driveshaft?

spinall4
01-23-2010, 07:55 AM
does anyone make a lightweight driveshaft?

Like i said i know the 97's had a carbon fiber drive shaft but i have no idea if that is worth it or not... Anybody?

texasboy21
01-23-2010, 08:07 AM
I have a 2003 B6 but I think I can still be useful here. My b6 weighed in at 3375lbs with all the weight savings I did before going to the track the last time I went. That was just some basic savings, like the spare, trunk matte, etc. So if your really looking for a light weight car these arent them

Altech75
01-23-2010, 08:57 AM
Like i said i know the 97's had a carbon fiber drive shaft but i have no idea if that is worth it or not... Anybody?

Due to the amount of carbon fiber they used there was really no weight savings between it and a steel or aluminum one (if they make them out of aluminum). During a front-end collision the carbon fiber drive-shaft has also been known to come shooting up through the floorboards into the passenger seat. Haven't actually seen it, but I've read about it.

terraflata
01-23-2010, 09:20 AM
Look at it the other way. Think of a bare chassis and what it needs to run. Then to make it street legal. Then to make it nice.

That's my approach. [:D]

JK35
01-23-2010, 10:39 AM
I'm strongly considering a tubular K-member. there has got to be a a lot of weight savings there if done right...
I was under an M5 on Wednesday, and the factory K-member is just about what I have in mind (with correct geometry / dimensions for my B5 AND with additional camber capabilities or course ;) )

would anyone be interested in one if I were to go through with it? You know, making ONE of something is very expensive, making a couple usually doesn't cost but a marginal amount more...


Here's a link worth checking out:
http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/weight-reduction.html


Also, Look into rotational / reciprocating weights.. there is a much higher return on saving weight on things that spin.

for example: taking 10lbs off your flywheel (or WHEELS) is like taking much more than just the 10 lbs off the car

I think you'll find different realized returns for sprung -vs- unsprung (semi sprung) weights as well.

By the way, does anyone here have a set of wheel scales?
I am looking to buy a set as these are totally necessary to properly dial in my suspension.
the shop I am now working at has a really nice set, but I need my own[wrench] If anyone has a set they are considering selling, drop me a message


As for the sunroof, I see Mike Hood is selling a CF sunroof set. I am curious how much weight savings can be found up there???
Any other's commonly available? what all is removed / replaced and what are the yields?

terraflata
01-23-2010, 10:52 AM
I'm strongly considering a tubular K-member. there has got to be a a lot of weight savings there if done right...
I was under an M5 on Wednesday, and the factory K-member is just about what I have in mind (with correct geometry / dimensions for my B5 AND with additional camber capabilities or course ;) )

would anyone be interested in one if I were to go through with it? You know, making ONE of something is very expensive, making a couple usually doesn't cost but a marginal amount more...


Here's a link worth checking out:
http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/weight-reduction.html


Also, Look into rotational / reciprocating weights.. there is a much higher return on saving weight on things that spin.

for example: taking 10lbs off your flywheel (or WHEELS) is like taking much more than just the 10 lbs off the car

I think you'll find different realized returns for sprung -vs- unsprung (semi sprung) weights as well.

By the way, does anyone here have a set of wheel scales?
I am looking to buy a set as these are totally necessary to properly dial in my suspension.
the shop I am now working at has a really nice set, but I need my own[wrench] If anyone has a set they are considering selling, drop me a message


As for the sunroof, I see Mike Hood is selling a CF sunroof set. I am curious how much weight savings can be found up there???
Any other's commonly available? what all is removed / replaced and what are the yields?

A lot of savings, not because of the carbon fiber but rather because the glass and mechanics are heavy.

Unsprung weight can be saved by lighter wheels and tires, lighter brakes (Stock ones are heavy), aluminum S4 uprights (which is also good if upgrading to BBK).

Rotational weight gains are usually seen in HP and in less drivtrain loss. Lightweight pulleys and cam gears are common, but for some reason people say creat problems with our cars (???)

Terraflata

djwimbo
01-23-2010, 10:56 AM
I think ~30lbs or something if you take the motors and rails out.

The entire sunroof assy is close to 70lbs(IIRC). If you get the full delete panel, you pretty much remove like 65lbs from the highest point in the car (benefit is weight transfer).
Just replacing the glass with the C/F panel is like 15lbs? I can't remember that one specifically.

The problem with pulling the spare tire, tool kit, truck accs, etc, is that it removes weight from the rear only. This doesn't help with understeer (or controlling it) at all.

Personally, yes. I removed my spare tire, and everything else from the rear of my car besides the carpet. I did add a 4ch amp because I still needed some tunes, but it weighed less than the stock amp that was back there.
My car was 3,363lbs with me (185lbs), >3/4 tank of fuel, C/F hood, gutted front bumper (the whole thing was like 12lbs... F-U Mike Hood), TT/A8 brakes, LWFW, and full interior (1.8TQM 1998.5 AEB, cloth heated non-power seats).
That was the day it went 14.6 @ 92.8.

Edit: I had H-sport sways too, on the stiffest setting in the rear, so understeer wasn't bad. It actually oversteered when I wanted it too (4:1 diff mod helped that as well)

terraflata
01-23-2010, 10:58 AM
Im so glad my car never came with a sunroof.

djwimbo
01-23-2010, 11:05 AM
I'm strongly considering a tubular K-member. there has got to be a a lot of weight savings there if done right...

This is something I seriously considered.

The problems:
1 - who's going to buy it if I developed one
2 - I can't weld
3 - how much weight savings can be had? I know F-Body cars had a huge benefit
4 - I don't want to be responsible for the fitment issues on all the wrecked cars.
5 - Cost:benefit

terraflata
01-23-2010, 11:14 AM
This is something I seriously considered.

The problems:
1 - who's going to buy it if I developed one
2 - I can't weld
3 - how much weight savings can be had? I know F-Body cars had a huge benefit
4 - I don't want to be responsible for the fitment issues on all the wrecked cars.
5 - Cost:benefit

What is a K-Member and what does it do/replace?

djwimbo
01-23-2010, 11:34 AM
What is a K-Member and what does it do/replace?

It's the subframe. Depending on what car culture you come from, many people call it a K-member.
Jettas and Golfs are good representations, b/c their front subframe looks a lot like a "K".

http://www.importautoworks.ca/images/parts/mk3subframe.jpg

LS1 K-member (tubular) swap into a Miata

http://www.swaptastic.net/ls1_miata/images/new%20k-member%201%20(Custom).JPG

Vs Stock
http://www.swaptastic.net/ls1_miata/images/new%20vs%20old%20k-member%202%20(Custom).JPG


There's a TON of improvements that can be made to the B5/B6 subframe/k-Member, but it wouldn't be cheap.
The structural reinforcement is key, you can beef it up where it needs to be, and change dimensions where needed as well.
For example, if you wanted to do a widebody, you could move the lower control arm mounting points outward. This would increase camber and move the hubs out by some amount. Added benefit would be the ability to tighten the turning radius while allowing to run a 9-9.5" front wheel.

terraflata
01-23-2010, 11:42 AM
It's the subframe. Depending on what car culture you come from, many people call it a K-member.
Jettas and Golfs are good representations, b/c their front subframe looks a lot like a "K".

http://www.importautoworks.ca/images/parts/mk3subframe.jpg

LS1 K-member (tubular) swap into a Miata

http://www.swaptastic.net/ls1_miata/images/new%20k-member%201%20(Custom).JPG

Vs Stock
http://www.swaptastic.net/ls1_miata/images/new%20vs%20old%20k-member%202%20(Custom).JPG


There's a TON of improvements that can be made to the B5/B6 subframe/k-Member, but it wouldn't be cheap.
The structural reinforcement is key, you can beef it up where it needs to be, and change dimensions where needed as well.
For example, if you wanted to do a widebody, you could move the lower control arm mounting points outward. This would increase camber and move the hubs out by some amount. Added benefit would be the ability to tighten the turning radius while allowing to run a 9-9.5" front wheel.

Moving the hubs out seems to complicated. Things like axles would no longer be "easy" to replace. Things like adjustable control arms exist for adjusting toe and camber. But I would be extremely interested in making a new subframe, I thought about the idea myself. Particulary in back because the stock one needs reinforcement anyways just to run a stiffer sway bar. And the front needs work, imagine being able to change the oil pan without dropping the subframe?

djwimbo
01-23-2010, 12:44 PM
Moving the hubs out seems to complicated. Things like axles would no longer be "easy" to replace. Things like adjustable control arms exist for adjusting toe and camber. But I would be extremely interested in making a new subframe, I thought about the idea myself. Particulary in back because the stock one needs reinforcement anyways just to run a stiffer sway bar. And the front needs work, imagine being able to change the oil pan without dropping the subframe?

"complicated" is a relative term.

Moving the mounting points for the lower control arms like 1/4" would make a bigger difference than many would understand. At that point you could pop the axles out without unbolting anything besides the brake caliper carrier. At that point the axles would not need to be extended either.

Adjustable control arms are great, but as of right now, they're too pricey. That may change soon, but that's not under my control.

There's also the potential to have adjustments built into the frame, so that you can control/move the mounting points of the control arms.

The rear subframe needs love. I haven't looked at it specifically in terms of what can be redesigned though.
BMW guys have been reinforcing their front and rear subframes for years, there's no reason why Audi's can't do it too.

Altech75
01-23-2010, 12:54 PM
Someone with 034 really need to look at this thread and maybe start developing a new subframe. From the looks of it, it wouldn't be all that hard to do. Just some tubes and some cnc milling with welding to wrap it all up. Designing it would be hard to do but it couldn't possibly be that expensive. With the possible weight saving and the reinforcements. I'd def pay $600, probably more.

terraflata
01-23-2010, 01:08 PM
Someone with 034 really need to look at this thread and maybe start developing a new subframe. From the looks of it, it wouldn't be all that hard to do. Just some tubes and some cnc milling with welding to wrap it all up. Designing it would be hard to do but it couldn't possibly be that expensive. With the possible weight saving and the reinforcements. I'd def pay $600, probably more.

600$ is nothing when you consider how much people for adjustable control arms, and that we are talking about having such options built into it.

-Terraflata


"complicated" is a relative term.

Moving the mounting points for the lower control arms like 1/4" would make a bigger difference than many would understand. At that point you could pop the axles out without unbolting anything besides the brake caliper carrier. At that point the axles would not need to be extended either.

Adjustable control arms are great, but as of right now, they're too pricey. That may change soon, but that's not under my control.

There's also the potential to have adjustments built into the frame, so that you can control/move the mounting points of the control arms.

The rear subframe needs love. I haven't looked at it specifically in terms of what can be redesigned though.
BMW guys have been reinforcing their front and rear subframes for years, there's no reason why Audi's can't do it too.

What I mean by not being easy anymore, will stock axles work if the length is extended? I know there is some play in them but how much and how safely could you extend it. Our suspension geometry is very dynamic too, not sure how these type of changes could affect that.

capea4
01-23-2010, 01:51 PM
I have gone fairly far with this idea. Unfortunately i haven't been on a scale. I removed the sunroof
carbon drive shaft
gutted interior including unused wire harness sections
after market seats
wilwood front brakes
aluminum tube to replace rebar
no radio
entire A/C system removed
but my larger rear brakes, roll cage and heavy 19" rims screw all that up
I'll get on a scale when i can
see my photos

terraflata
01-23-2010, 02:12 PM
I have gone fairly far with this idea. Unfortunately i haven't been on a scale. I removed the sunroof
carbon drive shaft
gutted interior including unused wire harness sections
after market seats
wilwood front brakes
aluminum tube to replace rebar
no radio
entire A/C system removed
but my larger rear brakes, roll cage and heavy 19" rims screw all that up
I'll get on a scale when i can
see my photos

Interested to see where you stand or rather how much. Everyone says these cars weigh like 3300 lbs, but every review and even my registration says the car weighs just under 2900.

-Terraflata

djwimbo
01-23-2010, 05:45 PM
What I mean by not being easy anymore, will stock axles work if the length is extended? I know there is some play in them but how much and how safely could you extend it. Our suspension geometry is very dynamic too, not sure how these type of changes could affect that.

Stock axles don't have a ton of room to play with. I wouldn't plan on doing more than 1/4" of relocation at the lower control arm. That would only be like .200" of "stretch" at the axle's point.

The suspension geometry is something that cannot be neglected. By moving the pivot points on the front suspension, you can tweak (intentionally) the suspension, or you can completely F- it up if you're not careful.

gmx
01-23-2010, 05:52 PM
Like i said i know the 97's had a carbon fiber drive shaft but i have no idea if that is worth it or not... Anybody?

I'm looking more aftermarket approach. Check this out: http://fliblog.wordpress.com/2009/02/24/acpt-carbon-fiber-driveshaft-test/
The 97s were still 2 piece IIRC.

I weigh under 3100lbs (E on fuel) with minor modifications.
I'm sure it"ll be easy to get closer or even under 3000. My rear trunk is completely stock - nothing removed. Interior is completely stock with an armrest added.


The rear subframe needs love. I haven't looked at it specifically in terms of what can be redesigned though.
BMW guys have been reinforcing their front and rear subframes for years, there's no reason why Audi's can't do it too.

Because stock BMWs are ripping and tearing them out.
Including Ms.

arorem
01-23-2010, 06:08 PM
You can paint CF........ just sayin. [>_<]

capea4
01-23-2010, 08:02 PM
Like i said i know the 97's had a carbon fiber drive shaft but i have no idea if that is worth it or not... Anybody?

my car is a late 98 and has a carbon drive shaft stock

terraflata
01-23-2010, 08:52 PM
my car is a late 98 and has a carbon drive shaft stock

I have a 97, it's a one peice carbon shaft. Im sure of it. But it's not really lighter than the two peice steel one from what I've heard.

djwimbo
01-23-2010, 10:30 PM
I have a 97, it's a one peice carbon shaft. Im sure of it. But it's not really lighter than the two peice steel one from what I've heard.

Audi chose to run the carbon shaft because of it's mechanical characteristics, not because of weight.

terraflata
01-23-2010, 11:15 PM
Audi chose to run the carbon shaft because of it's mechanical characteristics, not because of weight.

Any idea why it only got ran for 1 year? (Cost?)

capea4
01-24-2010, 07:22 AM
it is a twp piece shaft, only the front is carbon

EuroDriven
01-24-2010, 12:33 PM
You need to factor in the fact that the cables weigh something as well, and it has to be a rather heavy duty cable too. Someone actually found out that it added more weight relocating the battery in the back. It may remove the weight from the front n' all but if you were serious about weight reduction and balancing your car I don't see why you wouldn't put it where your passenger seat it.

I am relocating my battery for weight balance. I figure if I take weight out of the trunk, that makes the entire car lighter, but the rear even more lighter then the front, so I can remove weight from the front and add it to the rear (and rest of the car for cables). But I'm not sure why you would reccomend something as radical as putting the battery in the passenger seat without knows my plans. I want a fun DD. But I want weight reduc so I can have a system and not be extremly heavy. You know, to cancel all the "fun" upgrades out. I still have a at most stock weight car with a system, Navi and has 3 times the power of stock. Not to mention I am sure with the SPA mani vs the stock and other things of the sort add a ton of weight upfront. Bigger Turbo, bigger mani, bigger FMIC, bigger oil lines, adding coolant lines, boost controller, fuel pump.

I would be into a track car when I am able to put as much money as I am putting into this 1 car, into a whole other car once everything on my DD is done.

-John

JK35
01-24-2010, 06:57 PM
I'm looking more aftermarket approach. Check this out: http://fliblog.wordpress.com/2009/02/24/acpt-carbon-fiber-driveshaft-test/
The 97s were still 2 piece IIRC.

I weigh under 3100lbs (E on fuel) with minor modifications.
I'm sure it"ll be easy to get closer or even under 3000. My rear trunk is completely stock - nothing removed. Interior is completely stock with an armrest added.



Because stock BMWs are ripping and tearing them out.
Including Ms.

nice link, anyone found anyplace that will make a 1 piece CF driveshaft for our cars?
One of the major CF driveshaft makers is not far from me, and I DEFINIETLY want rid of this POS 2 piece driveshaft.

Lift your car and grab on to the F-er with both hands and jiggle it back and forth + up and down. there's just too much slop in it. -fine for a cushy marshmallow-like luxury car, but not what I want transferring all the power I've spent the past year trying to make...

Front K-member is high upon my list, right after a chromoly 12 point cage this Spring after I buy my new Syncrowave[cool]
Of course, I hope you all know that having a tubular K member and in some cases ANY modification to the factory frame / subframe will disqualify the car from certain sanctioning bodies' events or may bump you into a class that no one here has any business running in...[drive] look before you leap[wrench]

anmagro
02-02-2010, 12:20 PM
I thought i saw somewhere online that the sunroof delete (delete glass and motor and such) only saved around 30 pounds.

terraflata
02-02-2010, 01:00 PM
I thought i saw somewhere online that the sunroof delete (delete glass and motor and such) only saved around 30 pounds.

Even if it was only 30 lbs. Thats 30 lbs from the top point of your car. It's kind of like someone was saying earlier, being lighter, may not mean you faster than a more balanced car. It's where the weight is that makes the difference. And in that sense, like I said before, I'm glad my car came stock with NO sunroof! I never thought it was rare.

-Terraflata

EuroDriven
02-02-2010, 01:43 PM
Even if it was only 30 lbs. Thats 30 lbs from the top point of your car. It's kind of like someone was saying earlier, being lighter, may not mean you faster than a more balanced car. It's where the weight is that makes the difference. And in that sense, like I said before, I'm glad my car came stock with NO sunroof! I never thought it was rare.

-Terraflata

I am with you on saving weight, but on a nontrack only car I love having sky above me and still having some protection. I am terrified of a roll over in a convertible.

terraflata
02-02-2010, 03:53 PM
I am with you on saving weight, but on a nontrack only car I love having sky above me and still having some protection. I am terrified of a roll over in a convertible.

I double you on that one, I would never feel safe in a convertible. But Ive never had a sunroof. So I never miss it. I like the clean look anyways.

Terraflata

Euro-Tuner
02-02-2010, 04:39 PM
Lightweight pulleys and cam gears are common, but for some reason people say creat problems with our cars (???)


light weight pulleys can be a problem with any car that has a harmonic balancer.


Not to mention I am sure with the SPA mani vs the stock and other things of the sort add a ton of weight upfront. Bigger Turbo, bigger mani, bigger FMIC, bigger oil lines, adding coolant lines, boost controller, fuel pump.


I though this too when I was doing weight reduction, with everything I took off I'm sure it was put right back with my manifold, turbo, etc...



Audi chose to run the carbon shaft because of it's mechanical characteristics, not because of weight.

Any idea why it only got ran for 1 year? (Cost?)

also curious why they switched if it was mechanically better...


I have gone fairly far with this idea. Unfortunately i haven't been on a scale. I removed the sunroof
carbon drive shaft
gutted interior including unused wire harness sections
after market seats
wilwood front brakes
aluminum tube to replace rebar
no radio
entire A/C system removed


what "unused wire harness sections" do you have??

and where did you replace rebar with aluminum tube?

capea4
02-02-2010, 04:58 PM
what "unused wire harness sections" do you have??

and where did you replace rebar with aluminum tube?

airbags with harness and controller, audio harness. pre-wired cell phone section and other unused crap.

rebar in the rear bumper was removed and we took a piece of thick wall aluminum tube and welded it to the bumper strut plates. i have a seidl rear bumper and they say to "remove" rebar, i liked this idea better.


and someone in this thread said the sunroof only weighs 30lbs, i took mine out, and while i didn't weigh it that f#$%er was heavy

djwimbo
02-02-2010, 06:54 PM
Any idea why it only got ran for 1 year? (Cost?)


also curious why they switched if it was mechanically better...

My understanding of their theory was that in the event of a collision (or some idiot launching the shit out of the car), the carbon portion will shatter and basically turn into a big spinning toothbrush instead of a 20lb shaft flopping around at high speeds.
They switched out for the facelifts for cost (IIRC), and it wasn't a necessary item to maintain driveline weight or vibration (rumored to be one of the original needs for the CF shaft).

97-98.5 1.8T's should all have it IIRC, but the problem is that information straight from the manufacturer is limited since there's not a ton of people around that have worked for Audi for the last dozen years (and are willing to share their manufacturer training).

anmagro
02-02-2010, 07:41 PM
and someone in this thread said the sunroof only weighs 30lbs, i took mine out, and while i didn't weigh it that f#$%er was heavy

than that $hit is going as soon as i can make a female fiberglass mold of the glass. lol

cdowns13
02-02-2010, 08:05 PM
i kinda read through everything quickly and dont think i saw this mentioned.. but heard it a little while ago around here where someone took all of the deadening out of the car.. using something to scrape it up after heating.. (with a heat gun).. may save a few pounds doing that and if it's not a DD then you prob wont car if it's a little louder inside..

dcampana
02-03-2010, 09:08 AM
yeah the carbon fiber driveshafts on the subies up here (through FLI) are all over. there are a lot of cobb3 or greater subies pushing damn near 500hp... they are good guys too.

i am just not one to jump in to a suby. i love the four rings.... period

capea4
02-03-2010, 04:45 PM
than that $hit is going as soon as i can make a female fiberglass mold of the glass. lol
still have mine if you want to pay shipping

onemoremile
03-02-2010, 01:31 PM
Even if it was only 30 lbs. Thats 30 lbs from the top point of your car. It's kind of like someone was saying earlier, being lighter, may not mean you faster than a more balanced car. It's where the weight is that makes the difference. And in that sense, like I said before, I'm glad my car came stock with NO sunroof! I never thought it was rare.

-Terraflata

I've tracked mine with and without the roof rack and it didn't make a dramatic difference. Same goes for the difference between a full tank of gas and a half tank. 60 pounds difference in the rear but it doesn't change the way it handles on the track much.

Altech75
03-02-2010, 06:25 PM
I've tracked mine with and without the roof rack and it didn't make a dramatic difference. Same goes for the difference between a full tank of gas and a half tank. 60 pounds difference in the rear but it doesn't change the way it handles on the track much.

I wouldn't expect it to make a very large difference by itself like you've said but there would still probably be a difference. Doing a tad bit of math removing 30 pounds lightens the car by about 0.8% (used 3500 as the weight) which isn't very much and by itself and shouldn't be noticeable. There really is no gain to removing the sunroof unless the car is a dedicated track slut in which case it would most likely be among the first things to go.

Thanks for adding a little commentary so that every new*** doesn't go out and starting hacking away at their sunroof assembly.

anmagro
03-02-2010, 07:50 PM
still have mine if you want to pay shipping

youve made a female mold? how much weight did you save from removing the sunroof.

A4Rob
03-02-2010, 08:46 PM
The CF sunroof panel saves appx 40lbs. Here is mine:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v468/a4robm/HPIM0539.jpg

They are a PITA to install.

CF buckets also help in the weight reduction

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v468/a4robm/DSCN0525.jpg

EuroDriven
03-03-2010, 06:49 AM
Love the seats! What are they like 18 pounds? I forgot what your thread said, but it saves a bunch of weight if you can afford it.

terraflata
03-03-2010, 09:29 AM
I want those seats so bad but in Carbon Kevlar, gotta wait till the solid salary starts before I start thinking about that though.

terraflata
03-03-2010, 09:37 AM
I've tracked mine with and without the roof rack and it didn't make a dramatic difference. Same goes for the difference between a full tank of gas and a half tank. 60 pounds difference in the rear but it doesn't change the way it handles on the track much.

The Gas tank might have a better effect being full than half full. Our cars are front heavy any weight added to the back will in turn balance it out more. One guy on here says he adds weight in his trunk when he tracks his car to be more balanced. Not my own personal experiences I am telling you, just sharing what Ive read.

VMRWheels
03-03-2010, 11:26 AM
i kinda read through everything quickly and dont think i saw this mentioned.. but heard it a little while ago around here where someone took all of the deadening out of the car.. using something to scrape it up after heating.. (with a heat gun).. may save a few pounds doing that and if it's not a DD then you prob wont car if it's a little louder inside..

That'll make a huge sticky mess, use dry ice to harden it, then hit it with a rubber mallet. It should come off in big chunks.

I also saw mention of relocating the battery, if you do decide to go that route, make sure it's a dry cell. If it's a regular acid battery in the trunk / cabin and you get rear ended, the acid will splash all over, you're not going to want to be anywhere near it if that happens.

anmagro
03-03-2010, 11:58 AM
That'll make a huge sticky mess, use dry ice to harden it, then hit it with a rubber mallet. It should come off in big chunks.

I also saw mention of relocating the battery, if you do decide to go that route, make sure it's a dry cell. If it's a regular acid battery in the trunk / cabin and you get rear ended, the acid will splash all over, you're not going to want to be anywhere near it if that happens.

And you mention using dry ice because you have done this before? If so, how much were you able to get off.

VMRWheels
03-03-2010, 12:31 PM
I know it's sacrilege to link to a honda forum lol, but here's a thread with pictures: http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/126135-diy-sound-deadening-removal-dry-ice.html

anmagro
04-12-2010, 09:03 PM
The CF sunroof panel saves appx 40lbs. Here is mine:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v468/a4robm/HPIM0539.jpg

They are a PITA to install.

CF buckets also help in the weight reduction

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v468/a4robm/DSCN0525.jpg

did you make that one yourself? and how much of the sunroof was removed, just the glass?

Doctor
04-13-2010, 02:10 AM
Weight reduction eh...?

well....here goes...

http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac319/tritoslogariasmos/DSC05363.jpg

http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac319/tritoslogariasmos/DSC05361.jpg

http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac319/tritoslogariasmos/DSC05348.jpg

http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac319/tritoslogariasmos/DSC05321.jpg

anmagro
04-13-2010, 07:43 AM
^^^ haha nice. i wonder how much all that took off. your interior must look like crap now.

onemoremile
04-13-2010, 08:42 AM
The Gas tank might have a better effect being full than half full. Our cars are front heavy any weight added to the back will in turn balance it out more. One guy on here says he adds weight in his trunk when he tracks his car to be more balanced. Not my own personal experiences I am telling you, just sharing what Ive read.

I've also done it with the roof rack in place and without. That 50 pounds on the roof should make a big difference but it really doesn't. The car is marginally faster without it but nothing you would ever care about unless the timing gear was set up.

I've had the car on the corner scales and it is 55/45 which isn't bad at all for an all wheel drive car. Weight came in at 3411 pounds in full street trim. That includes the roof rack, spare tire, kid seat, etc..

onemoremile
04-13-2010, 08:50 AM
Removing the sound deadening isn't worth it. It is a nasty process that takes forever and doesn't save nearly enough weight for the trouble. That weight is right where it needs to be anyway. It can't get much lower than where its at. If you want a time consuming way to save a ton of weight then start pulling wiring and make yourself some lexan side windows and simple mechanical sliders.

shokwav09
04-13-2010, 10:04 AM
is there a sticky for this as far as what was taken out, and what items weigh, etc...

theres so many options you can do to lighten your load.
wheels, coilovers versus stock suspension, big brake kits, drivetrain components [clutch,flywheel, pistons, rods,driveshaft, if you have the money and are extreme go with titanium bolts,nuts, and washers] interiior components[change materials like leather on the rear seat for cloth, carpeting can be lightened with thinner versions,steering wheels too,drivers seat for racing seats, remove wiring, stereo components] exterior components, [panels are always lighter even after finish and paint, gmg makes a carbon fiber roof im buying eventually],and your own labor to remove sound deadening is entirely up to you and your preference and time. just remember one thing, how much weight removal is enough

Doctor
04-13-2010, 10:33 AM
^^^ haha nice. i wonder how much all that took off. your interior must look like crap now.

With black carpets all over it, it will look tons better...

onemoremile
04-13-2010, 10:45 AM
Let me know if you are interested in lightweight panels for interior or exterior. I'm making some that will be available through one of our esteemed vendors.

Doctor
04-13-2010, 12:22 PM
Let me know if you are interested in lightweight panels for interior or exterior. I'm making some that will be available through one of our esteemed vendors.

I could be interested....If you want to give me some more info, it would be nice...to understand what is it exactly that i am looking at....thanks

shokwav09
04-13-2010, 03:25 PM
Let me know if you are interested in lightweight panels for interior or exterior. I'm making some that will be available through one of our esteemed vendors.

id like to see a carbon fiber trunk with the extended lower portion to line up with the rs4 euro b5 bumper after conversion.

A4Rob
04-13-2010, 04:01 PM
id like to see a carbon fiber trunk with the extended lower portion to line up with the rs4 euro b5 bumper after conversion.

uh what?

djwimbo
04-13-2010, 06:38 PM
I've also done it with the roof rack in place and without. That 50 pounds on the roof should make a big difference but it really doesn't. The car is marginally faster without it but nothing you would ever care about unless the timing gear was set up.

I've had the car on the corner scales and it is 55/45 which isn't bad at all for an all wheel drive car. Weight came in at 3411 pounds in full street trim. That includes the roof rack, spare tire, kid seat, etc..

3400 is a pretty good number to base any weight savings off of. My sedan (vs Jim's Avant) was 3363 when weighed at US131 Motorsports, I had removed 1/2 the bracing from the front bumper, removed the spare and tools, but had like 7/8 tank of fuel.

I think another source of weight reduction is in the doors. The whole window regulator/frame and bracing is wicked heavy. The bare door skins without the window framing/motor/glass, is only like 10-15lbs each, versus 50+lbs each when fully assembled.
In comparison, my old boss' Corrado had everything possible stripped from the doors, and those were only like 5-ish pounds more than the A4 doors with the unnecessary crap removed.

I still think the sunroof assembly is a great place to start, but that's me. It won't make the weight distribution much better, but the concept of it should improve cornering/weight transfer.

andyrew
04-13-2010, 07:48 PM
For porsche 914's removing the sound deadening is ~ 10 pounds. Sure it takes time, but that is 1/2 the cabin area that the A4 has... Dry ice is certainly the way to go, or an isolating scraper. I used a heat gun and a scraper and it took me 2 hours in my 914. I would try the try ice and a hammer..

Kyle H
04-13-2010, 07:55 PM
The Gas tank might have a better effect being full than half full. Our cars are front heavy any weight added to the back will in turn balance it out more. One guy on here says he adds weight in his trunk when he tracks his car to be more balanced. Not my own personal experiences I am telling you, just sharing what Ive read.

034 had a ballast in their trunk to balance out the weight when they were using the vr6.

A4Rob
04-13-2010, 08:11 PM
I have removed 90% of the tar paper in my A4. It is a total pita, but well worth it. Along with my CF sunroof delete, cf seat buckets, cf hood, rear seat delete, interior panel delete and other components I feel my A4 has more spunk. I weighed in at 3104lbs.

anmagro
04-13-2010, 08:49 PM
I have removed 90% of the tar paper in my A4. It is a total pita, but well worth it. Along with my CF sunroof delete, cf seat buckets, cf hood, rear seat delete, interior panel delete and other components I feel my A4 has more spunk. I weighed in at 3104lbs.

wooohhh, your girl was put on a diet. why do you say the tar paper was worth it?

onemoremile
04-13-2010, 10:46 PM
I should also note that I had a UUC lower brace on there when the car was on the scales. It takes the place of a DTS but weighs about 50 pounds. Remove that, the rack, the spare tire, and the rear seats and the car is down to 3200 pounds with a full tank. This pic is before we were done corner jacking and the numbers did get better. We ended up with almost a dead even cross weight that changed by 10 pounds (diagonal to diagonal) when I got in and again when a front passenger got in.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/1174IMG_1509.JPG

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/1174IMG_1508.JPG

onemoremile
04-13-2010, 11:22 PM
id like to see a carbon fiber trunk with the extended lower portion to line up with the rs4 euro b5 bumper after conversion.

So that it fits the Avant hatch cutout in the bumper? That is a great idea but a bit tricky without having the bumper to work off of. Now that I think of it, the RS4's hatch should be the same as mine so the bumper cutout should be too. Put an avant rear bumper on a sedan and the new shape is right there waiting to happen.

shokwav09
04-14-2010, 06:22 AM
uh what?

when you do a rs4 b5 conversion the s4 trunks bottom doesnt line up with the rs4 bumper. i was saying id love to have a prefabbed carbon trunk that eliminates custom molding to close the gap betwwen them.

shokwav09
04-14-2010, 06:24 AM
So that it fits the Avant hatch cutout in the bumper? That is a great idea but a bit tricky without having the bumper to work off of. Now that I think of it, the RS4's hatch should be the same as mine so the bumper cutout should be too. Put an avant rear bumper on a sedan and the new shape is right there waiting to happen.

yessir, and thanks for the compliment. im full of those things called great ideas, lol.

anmagro
04-14-2010, 06:55 AM
that is one friggin light ass avant dude.

gmx
04-14-2010, 08:02 AM
Weight reduction eh...?

well....here goes...

[IMG]http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac319/tritoslogariasmos/DSC05363.jpg[/IMG

[IMG]http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac319/tritoslogariasmos/DSC05361.jpg[/IMG

[IMG]http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac319/tritoslogariasmos/DSC05348.jpg[/IMG

[IMG]http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac319/tritoslogariasmos/DSC05321.jpg[/IMG

Cool, but that's all out.
The consensus of this thread is minimal compromise by the sounds of it.


Let me know if you are interested in lightweight panels for interior or exterior. I'm making some that will be available through one of our esteemed vendors.

Possibly.
Wings/Fenders, hood?


when you do a rs4 b5 conversion the s4 trunks bottom doesnt line up with the rs4 bumper. i was saying id love to have a prefabbed carbon trunk that eliminates custom molding to close the gap betwwen them.

Are you Avant?
If not, just get a Euro S4 rear and mold it to RS4 guards.

onemoremile
04-14-2010, 11:33 AM
C
Possibly.
Wings/Fenders, hood?



There is almost no weight to be saved with carbon front fenders. Maybe a couple pounds at most. The only reason to swap them out is if you need something wider. hint hint...

danosaur
04-14-2010, 12:42 PM
There is almost no weight to be saved with carbon front fenders. Maybe a couple pounds at most. The only reason to swap them out is if you need something wider. hint hint...

When the time comes, i'd be interested in some sort of a cf sunroof delete if it didn't leak. I don't use the sunroof really at all, i'm pretty sure this could be a popular item as well.

Reading>Me.. theres one up top on this page. Still, I could see this being popular if you had a good price, and good product!

anmagro
04-14-2010, 04:36 PM
anybody know how much the trunk weighs?

Doctor
04-14-2010, 04:40 PM
I have already ordered Seibon Carbon Fiber Hood and trunk.

I could be interested in interior parts....

JK35
06-06-2010, 10:54 PM
So what's the word on the sunroof delete? I read 70lbs in one thread, someone else claims 37lbs, actually, I've read about 5 different values for the alleged "weight savings" of removing the entire sunroof, tracks, glass, motor and all.

I'm weighing in at 3418lbs in full street trim. -and that is with a full size spare, the full sound system install with all the lexan, all the electronics, -everything. even a half tank of fuel AND the octane on demand fuel system and a full 20# nitrous bottle.

I'm going to need to fabricate and install a rollcage, and of course I could really use some weight savings. especially before I start ADDING weight with a chromoly cage.

so after this weekend at the dragstrip (full weight, nothing removed for the shakedown passes) I have a good idea what to expect now, and need to make a few decisions.

The sunroof seems like a strong possibility... although I think I'd just use a pneumatic flageing tool and weld sheet metal 30" x 18" roof sheetmetal -vs- a carbon fiber panel with it's structure and mounting hardware / seals has gotta be close in weight. hell, if you add everything together, the CF sunroof might even weigh more.

anyone KNOW what the entire sunroof assembly weighs?

anyone want one/need one?

v dub'n
06-08-2010, 10:33 PM
I'm really interested in carbon doors, but can't find any, anyone have info on pricing?

Doctor
06-09-2010, 06:07 AM
I'm really interested in carbon doors, but can't find any, anyone have info on pricing?

So am I....for my B7 chassis.....And front fenders too....

anmagro
06-09-2010, 08:05 AM
im waiting on someone to PM me back about a female mold for the sunroof. I think carbonfiber doors will be complicated but i have seen them custom done on e30's and MK1 Golfs and they were nice.

A4Rob
06-09-2010, 09:43 AM
I'm really interested in carbon doors, but can't find any, anyone have info on pricing?
Give Fiber Images a call. That is who Mike Hood got his from.

JK35
06-11-2010, 01:39 PM
did you make that one yourself? and how much of the sunroof was removed, just the glass?

who's car is this with the pearl yellow roll cage and CF seats? Did I understand you correctly that you removed the sunroof ADDED a CF sunroof panel and lost 40lbs?
do you have any more pics of the rollcage? material? any idea ow much weight that ADDED?
I'm studying a few different designs, and am going to nneed to make a decision on material. -I'd love to just go ahead and use Chromoly, but I haven't ever welded Chromo, and dammit! is it ever expensive stuff! I'm wondering what kind of weight savings a legal chromoly -vs the same legal DOM cage would be?
we talking 15lbs or more like 50lbs difference?

AndyQuick
04-06-2011, 02:39 PM
:: reviving this ol' thread ::
This is some awesome stuff, especially considering I wanted to put my car on a mild diet... both my rear window regulators have taken a crap, so rather than replacing them, I was thinking about welding something inside the door panels to keep the windows in the up position and removing all the guts (motors, tracks, etc.). Has anyone done something similar? Also, as far as moving the battery to the trunk, what have some of you done as far as brackets, trays, cables, etc.? I'd like to see some pics if possible......

Doctor
04-06-2011, 08:34 PM
Going to work now. But you should check my build thread.

truls000
04-06-2011, 10:51 PM
Heres my slim-list:

- (minus 12kg) Removed tow hook.
- (minus 3.5kg) Removed emergency compressor and 'tire-glue'.
- (minus 1.4kg) Removed rear hedrest's.
- (minus 3.2kg) Removed SAI pump, EGR, incl. tubes/pipes.
- (minus 11kg) Carbonfibre hood.
- (minus 6.2kg) Carbonfibre trunk.
- (minus 3.2kg) Carbonfibre S4 door blades.

http://www.tg-photo.com/AUDI/IMG_0263.jpg
http://www.tg-photo.com/AUDI/IMG_0246.jpg



More info in my project thread...

ianwpb
04-06-2011, 11:20 PM
:: reviving this ol' thread ::
This is some awesome stuff, especially considering I wanted to put my car on a mild diet... both my rear window regulators have taken a crap, so rather than replacing them, I was thinking about welding something inside the door panels to keep the windows in the up position and removing all the guts (motors, tracks, etc.). Has anyone done something similar? Also, as far as moving the battery to the trunk, what have some of you done as far as brackets, trays, cables, etc.? I'd like to see some pics if possible......

This is kinda ghetto, but when my window regulators went out I just ziptied the window in the up position.. That way you can take out a lot of the internal stuff.

Doctor
04-07-2011, 04:31 AM
Ι have some info for you, to notice.

If you take out the rear window motors, yes you dont need rear windows and you an reduce weight this way.

BUT

Taking that out, you also take out the capability of central locking in the rear doors, thus they stay open. There is a way however to lock them with the key(or a screwdriver) in a slot on the door's side, and then if ou want to open it, just pull th handle from the inside.

Try it for yourselves.

@ TRULS: As you know, I have removed lots of more weight than you. HOWEVER, when saying 12kg from the tow hook, what do you mean ?

Thanks

M-Hood
04-07-2011, 07:52 AM
Even with my huge FMIC, tube manifold, GT35r and a DOM 10 point roll cage my car only tips the scales at 2915 in race trim.

CF hood, fenders, doors and trunk. No AC, Cobra race seats, no rear seat, no spare tire and race battery mounted in the trunk. Everything else in the car, OEM glass and all 4 door windows are still electric and still work.
It even has the stock gas tank, 3 fuel pumps, surge tank, 2 OEM fuel filters and a -8 line running the length of the car.
Car was 3200+ lbs when I bought it new from the dealer.


Fiber images is still offering the following B5 CF parts.
OEM style hood
Face lift fenders
Face lift doors
96/Euro trunk
97+ trunk
Sunroof Delete
Full Roof replacement

They even agreed to start making the old Vented Hood again.

AndyQuick
04-07-2011, 08:40 AM
Ι have some info for you, to notice.

If you take out the rear window motors, yes you dont need rear windows and you an reduce weight this way.

BUT

Taking that out, you also take out the capability of central locking in the rear doors, thus they stay open. There is a way however to lock them with the key(or a screwdriver) in a slot on the door's side, and then if ou want to open it, just pull th handle from the inside.

Try it for yourselves.

@ TRULS: As you know, I have removed lots of more weight than you. HOWEVER, when saying 12kg from the tow hook, what do you mean ?

Thanks

good to know before I start tearin' sh*t out... so if they stay open without the central locking, can't they just as well stay locked?? I almost never carry passengers back there, so I was gonna 86 the rear seats also (might as well be driving an R8 ;)

Doctor
04-07-2011, 10:32 AM
Yes, they can stay locked. Surely. If you dont have the door cards on them,you can easily lock and unlock them the way i told you. I will explain again if you wish. Please show us pics of your guys so as to inspire more of us.
What is more, there is PLENTY of weight hidden in the tar and sound deafening material. At least 10 kgs there from trunk and rear seats. I need to remove the tar under the main carpet as well.
It can easily be removed with a heat gun, or dry ice.
I tried just the first, piece of cake.
I need to remove my ac compressor too, since i already have removed the other ac components as well.
Thing is, i dont know yet, the code or length of the shorter auxiliary belt that will be needed since the ac compressor will be absent. This would be easily solved if i was to know a model of 1.8 T WITHOUT ac on it

AndyQuick
04-07-2011, 11:22 AM
Doctor, the idler pulley for my A/C took a dump, so I removed the pulley with bracket and belt - the compressor is coming out next because it's just hangin' out, along with the condenser etc etc (don't use it)... As far as I remember, the A/C is its own isolated system with no other accessories being powered by that belt.... mine's an '01 with the AWM, so not sure if the belts are routed the same way as your car? Can anyone clarify that?

the sound-proofing is on my list as well (my last few rides were obnoxious muscle cars, so I kinda miss the loudness of it all) and I was gonna try both methods and post about the pro's and con's of each.

any help with relocating the battery to the trunk would be sweet...

Doctor
04-07-2011, 11:28 AM
Doctor, the idler pulley for my A/C took a dump, so I removed the pulley with bracket and belt - the compressor is coming out next because it's just hangin' out, along with the condenser etc etc (don't use it)... As far as I remember, the A/C is its own isolated system with no other accessories being powered by that belt.... mine's an '01 with the AWM, so not sure if the belts are routed the same way as your car? Can anyone clarify that?

the sound-proofing is on my list as well (my last few rides were obnoxious muscle cars, so I kinda miss the loudness of it all) and I was gonna try both methods and post about the pro's and con's of each.

any help with relocating the battery to the trunk would be sweet...

You will definately need a shorter auxiliary belt because when the AC compressor is out of the car (certainly 5-10kilograms), then the route will be shorter, thus needing a shorter belt.
I wish there was a 1,8T with NO AC at all, then, we could use that belt from there.

Is there one ? I just need an engine code and I can find the rest through ETKA. A friend of mine with a MK5 GTI, did this, and used te auxiliary belt from a 2.0 FSI with no ac, and is great.

As for sound material definately remove it. Let me upload some pics of mine removed in trunk and rear seats areas.

As for the battery, I have a full photo-footage in my build thread. You will find them there. Have you looked at those ? I moved it to the rear codriver's side, helps A LOT in weight distribution, cause the rear end is VERY light compared to front.

Photos coming right up.

Please provide me with photos of yours as well, they are inspiration.

What is more, still waiting from Truls to tell me about the tow hook 12kg removal cause I cant let it go [headbang][headbang]

Doctor
04-07-2011, 11:44 AM
Seats Removed, Tar Removed and painted Satin Black, seatbelts, all speakers except for two

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5022/5598668474_e3b2d7ec9f_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/60533219@N02/5598668474/)

Almost finished with tar removal in the back too

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5225/5598677014_4c740ec12a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/60533219@N02/5598677014/)

Old pic (with tar) showing battery location)

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5144/5598098307_fa292fea26_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/60533219@N02/5598098307/)

And ofcourse, car has no airbags at all, still, no airbag light, hehe [:)]

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5097/5595188834_aab4b4fcbd_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/60533219@N02/5595188834/)

AndyQuick
04-07-2011, 12:04 PM
You will definately need a shorter auxiliary belt because when the AC compressor is out of the car (certainly 5-10kilograms), then the route will be shorter, thus needing a shorter belt.
I wish there was a 1,8T with NO AC at all, then, we could use that belt from there.

Is there one ? I just need an engine code and I can find the rest through ETKA. A friend of mine with a MK5 GTI, did this, and used te auxiliary belt from a 2.0 FSI with no ac, and is great.


what I'm saying is that there are no other accessories powered by the belt that runs the A/C compressor, so I don't need to replace the belt with another... It was one belt from the crank pulley to the compressor to the idler and that was it... off came the belt = no problems... but again, not sure if the routing is different on your car (yours is a B7?)...

and thanks for the pics - big help... I'll try to take some when I get my camera back, but it's really no big deal right now - all the stock stuff is still there...

AndyQuick
04-07-2011, 12:08 PM
btw, that's a badass steering wheel you got there... what is it and what type of hub adapter did you use?

Doctor
04-07-2011, 12:09 PM
Hm, the alternator is powered by the auxiliary belt, so taking that out, the car will run no for long on its own, just as a battery can hold on its own, without being recharged at the same time. So if I have no auxiliary belt, unless I am mistaken the car cant work on its own. It can certainly start, but wont work for long...

I used to have no headliner, no rear door cards in the past, no main carpet, but my current plan is to remove as much weight as possible, YET, havingthe car looking nice and not like gutted. That is why I bought a black interior and gradually changed my grey one.

I still need to remove MOOOOOAR weight.

Doctor
04-07-2011, 12:12 PM
More photos of the new steering wheel

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5305/5595186332_2f89535229_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/60533219@N02/5595186332/)

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5110/5594599395_9bffc163b3_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/60533219@N02/5594599395/)

Here compared to my old Sparco one, again, Racing one, I used an A3 hub,and quick release set to take it on and off easily. Horn works as well

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5181/5594597291_9e8d1015ab_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/60533219@N02/5594597291/)

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5093/5594595423_80a9eac2a9_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/60533219@N02/5594595423/)

All these are the same thing. OMP Corsicas, Sparcos, Sabelts etc etc.

All a matter of taste

AndyQuick
04-07-2011, 12:16 PM
yep.. on my car, the alternator is powered by a serpentine belt that also turns the water pump and p/s pump.. lucky me ;)
Not sure why Audi changed the design of the accessory routing with the B7 cars - seems to work just fine on the B5s...

Doctor
04-07-2011, 12:23 PM
yep.. on my car, the alternator is powered by a serpentine belt that also turns the water pump and p/s pump.. lucky me ;)
Not sure why Audi changed the design of the accessory routing with the B7 cars - seems to work just fine on the B5s...

Yeah I know that for B5ers...Lucky you...So the Passat 1.8T engines are out of the question as well...Grrrrhh that sucks...

Doctor
04-07-2011, 12:25 PM
Even with my huge FMIC, tube manifold, GT35r and a DOM 10 point roll cage my car only tips the scales at 2915 in race trim.

CF hood, fenders, doors and trunk. No AC, Cobra race seats, no rear seat, no spare tire and race battery mounted in the trunk. Everything else in the car, OEM glass and all 4 door windows are still electric and still work.
It even has the stock gas tank, 3 fuel pumps, surge tank, 2 OEM fuel filters and a -8 line running the length of the car.
Car was 3200+ lbs when I bought it new from the dealer.


Fiber images is still offering the following B5 CF parts.
OEM style hood
Face lift fenders
Face lift doors
96/Euro trunk
97+ trunk
Sunroof Delete
Full Roof replacement

They even agreed to start making the old Vented Hood again.

I hate you B5ers. Not only is it lighter by factory, you have those CF as well ready to bolt on....pfffff at you guys

Audi_A4_
04-07-2011, 02:22 PM
The CF sunroof panel saves appx 40lbs. Here is mine:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v468/a4robm/HPIM0539.jpg

Where did you get that?

coolgraymemo
04-07-2011, 02:33 PM
^
2bennett sells those sunroof things.

A4Rob
04-07-2011, 04:01 PM
Where did you get that?

Fiber Images.

Audi_A4_
04-07-2011, 06:39 PM
I would like to get one would look good I think and shave a littel lbs off a heavy car. lol

EuroDriven
04-07-2011, 08:34 PM
They started using a single accessory belt on the b6 models. As to "why?". Well think about it, less parts to manufacture, less parts to break, less parts to replace, simpler overall system.

Have you ever seen the water pump on a b6? It doesn't have a gasket, just an O-Ring. I thought it was genius when I was used to the one on my b5. Audi is a smart company, they make changes for a reason.

truls000
04-08-2011, 01:39 AM
Ι have some info for you, to notice.

If you take out the rear window motors, yes you dont need rear windows and you an reduce weight this way.

BUT

Taking that out, you also take out the capability of central locking in the rear doors, thus they stay open. There is a way however to lock them with the key(or a screwdriver) in a slot on the door's side, and then if ou want to open it, just pull th handle from the inside.

Try it for yourselves.

@ TRULS: As you know, I have removed lots of more weight than you. HOWEVER, when saying 12kg from the tow hook, what do you mean ?

Thanks

Towinghook
http://www.directaudiparts.com/store/image.php?productid=10179

Doctor
04-08-2011, 04:55 AM
So is that standard in every Audi A4 ? Or had you ordered it ? Or is it pre-installed from factory to every vehicle ?

$teady$upreme
04-04-2013, 02:14 AM
any progress op?

codeym
06-25-2013, 10:27 PM
Well my ac compressor is bad. Whines like crazy. So have thought of getting rid of the ac system as I would much rather have my Windows down anyways. I have a 2.8 so I can just route the belt different so as not to have the compressor driven.But what size belt do I need?

A4Rob
06-26-2013, 06:05 AM
Well my ac compressor is bad. Whines like crazy. So have thought of getting rid of the ac system as I would much rather have my Windows down anyways. I have a 2.8 so I can just route the belt different so as not to have the compressor driven.But what size belt do I need?

I am not sure for the 2.8, but you can just measure with a string and get a belt the same size.

codeym
06-27-2013, 07:40 PM
Plan on putting in an e-fan e-fan eventually also. So will prob wait and buy a belt when I get the stuff to do that. Save me from having to take the front end off again