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anmagro
01-16-2010, 09:29 AM
p1602

p1198

p1199

p0160

p0118

p1139

p1137

Need some help on codes. Lol, quite a few of them. Gotta get my inspection done too, (over-due) and i gotta know if any of these are gonna fail my inspection. Thanks guys. My bad if theres a sticky of this allready [wrench]

anmagro
01-16-2010, 09:56 AM
ok....


p1602 - Power supply terminal 30: voltage too low

p0118 - Engine Temp Sensor / Signal Too High ??

p0160 - O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank2-Sensor2 No Activity Detected

p1139 - Long Term Fuel Trim (Additive) - Bank 2 System Too Rich

p1107 - O2 Sensor Heating Circ.,Bank2-Sensor1 Short to B+

p1199 - O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank2-Sensor2 Electrical Malfunction

p1198 - O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 Electrical Malfunction

anmagro
01-16-2010, 09:52 PM
Okay, now what the hell do i do about these guys?

walky_talky20
01-16-2010, 10:12 PM
Clear them first, drive it a bit and see which ones come back. Some of those may have been there forever and don't need to be worried about. If they all come back, it looks like you may need both rear O2 sensors and a Coolant Temp Sensor.

As far as inspection, it depends on your state/area and what they check for. If it is just a tailpipe emissions test (nothing electronic) then it might pass. If they check OBD2 readiness or if they want the Check Engine Light to be off, it probably will not pass.

EDIT:

P1107: O2 Sensor Heating Circ.,Bank2-Sensor1 Short to B+

Sounds like you may have a problem with one of the front O2 sensors. If so, this may be the cause for P1139 as well. Hard to say. Definitely clear them and see what comes back before going on a wild goose chase for year-old flukes.

Seerlah
01-16-2010, 10:32 PM
P1107 is 02 sensor heating circulation malfunction Bank 2; Sensor 1 Short to B+

I think a bad catalyctic converter on bank 2 is causing codes P0160, P1199, P1139, and possibly P1107. If it isn't caused by the cat, then it is one of the sensors. Or both of them. Clicky Click (http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/Misc/AudiWorld.com_Audi_B5_C5_O2_Sensor_Testing_DIY.pdf ). But you running rich on bank 2 is leading me to believe the codes are being thrown by a clogged/defective cat. But if the cat is bad, it more than likely also messed up your primary 02 sensor for that side.

You already know that the last code posted was due to you removing the battery cable. And your engine coolant temp sensor looks like it needs replacement. Then test the passenger side secondary 02 sensor as you would the driver's side (assuming you will do what it says in the link I posted). But I have a feeling this code is a fluke.

02 sensors are supposed to be replaced every 100k.

Edit: Follow walky_talky20's advice

anmagro
01-17-2010, 06:40 AM
Great. A cat. How do i clear the codes. I have no Vag.

Seerlah
01-17-2010, 07:29 AM
You can clear the codes with a generic scanner, such as the Autozone scanner. Or you can reset the ECU by removing the negative battery cable. Upon reconnecting it, be sure to have your radio code handy. But easiest way is to simply go to Autozone and use their scanner for free. Just scan the codes, write down any new ones that may have come up (along with old ones), and press the clear codes option on the scanner when finsished.

anmagro
01-17-2010, 07:34 AM
I rent out the scanner from autozone? okay.

btw.... is this what im looking for, for the p0118 code?

http://http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=6169_6170_6186_6195_6728_90 88&info=OEM_VAG_059919501A_Coolant_Temperature_Switch _with_O-ring_Green&products_id=1207

Seerlah
01-17-2010, 07:45 AM
Yes, just rent the autozone scanner for free, or simply use it in thier parking lot. Prior to me owning a VAG Com, I would use their scanner and it works just fine. VAG Com is just worlds better with more capabilities such as logging and pulling intermittent codes. Anyways, if you don't want to rent it, you can always just use it in their parking lot. And employee will just need to accompany you to your vehicle while you use it. Have a pen and pad handy, because you will want to write everything down.

And your link does not show anything. But here (http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=6169_6170_6186_6195_6728_90 88&info=OEM_VAG_059919501A_Coolant_Temperature_Switch _with_O-ring_Green&products_id=1207) is the sensor you will need.

Edit: I also found this (http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=5evb0yfluwl2mcrjpibojong&makeid=800002@Audi&modelid=1313473@A4%20QUATTRO%20&year=1998&cid=coolant@coolant&gid=4308@Coolant%20Temperature%20Switch) for cheaper. They have the same part number, minus the A on the green unit. When it comes to Audi part numbers, the letters usually signify an updated version. But not always.

anmagro
01-17-2010, 07:49 AM
Whats the benifit of the green one?

okay, ill get the scanner today from them.

Seerlah
01-17-2010, 07:53 AM
Updated versions just mean better units. Less prone to failure. I'd stick with the green unit.

anmagro
01-17-2010, 09:00 AM
Okay green it is. How do i test for a bad cat? I mean, how do i go about seeing if i have a bad cat first so that i dont waist money on O2's that i dont need?

I guess the first step is to see if there are faulty 02's with the link you gave me seerlah....replace those and then go from there? Cause if the heating element is toasted then i need a new 02 anyway right? can i use this same method to test of the 02 its self is dead by testing prongs 3 and 4?

Seerlah
01-17-2010, 09:15 AM
I don't really know how to test an 02 sensor by checking resistance, as I have never ran into that situation. Most times I get a code related to my 02 sensor was due to a different cause and the 02 sensor(s) had no problem whatsoever. But seeing how you are running rich, is what convinced me that your cat is clogged. And this in turn can make the 02 sensors act up. If you drive too long with a clogged cat, you will damage the primary 02 sensor from that bank. I don't know how to check for a clogged cat (hopefully, someone else will chimme in), but the codes are pointing to that being the case.

But on the other hand, if the primary 02 sensor is toast on bank 2, then that can account for the heater malfunction and the rich fuel trim code. For both the primary and secondary 02 sensor on that bank. And I am rather convinced that the code for the bank 1 sensor 2 heater malfunction is a fluke.

Edit: If that were my vehicle, I would have replaced the cat with a high flowing unit (maybe done the other side also) and new engine coolant temp sensor. After that, I would see if any of the 02 sensor codes poped up. And if they did, then I would deal with it. I am not saying that is what you should do, just what I would do. I am saying that only because I think that the cat is causing the bank 2 02 sensor issues and the bank 1 sensor issue is a fluke.

anmagro
01-17-2010, 12:30 PM
But if i replace the cats first, im out a huge chunk of change right? I mean...one of those thigns is like $499! no?

Seerlah
01-17-2010, 01:27 PM
I never replace things that go bad with OEM parts, unless they are things like sensors. Factory parts are a hefty change, and aftermarket parts more times than less have better quality. That is what many business owners place their livelihood on, like 034. Without that, they are basically out of a job and their reputation in the marketplace gets compromised. If you can find high flowing units, I would swap those in. That is one of the reasons I like my custom exhaust system. It saves me from troubles like this one with the benefit of some extra ponies and better throttle reponse. Try replacing it with a Magnaflow unit. I don't know how the configurations is for the cat converter on the 2.8, but you should be able to replace it with a high flow unit for maybe $100 installed (maybe less). You can even go to an exhaust shop and ask them for a price quote to place a Magnaflow cat converter on the driver's side (bank 2). That may be the easiest route. Then I would reset my system/ECU (after coolant sensor was installed), and gone from there. Ruling out the sensors as even being an issue for the time being.

As I mentioned, that is just what I would do. You need to narrow the problem down to the real issue. My thoughts is it's the cat converter causing the issues, and that is the route I would have taken. And if I were correct, it would have saved me money on replacing the 02 sensors. If I were wrong, then I would have needed to replace the 02 sensors anyways and I would now have a high flow cat converter for roughly $100 installed.

anmagro
01-17-2010, 04:35 PM
New Cats require new 02's?

Seerlah, i just want to thank you for helping me out so far. This has been a great help. For online purpose, will anyone else care to chime in?

Seerlah
01-17-2010, 04:44 PM
It is recommended that 02 sensor replacements at 100k intervals. When you replace the catalyctic converter, you don't have to replace the 02 sensors. You really don't need to replace them till they get worn/faulty, but they do lose their effeciency. When that happens, you will start to notice a drop in mpg. Then other codes start to reveal themselves till you realise that the 02 sensor(s) is faulty. That is why they recommend replacement every 100k for those sensors.

But if my assumption is correct (the 02 sensor codes on bank 2 is caused by the catalyctic converter, you need to replace your coolant temp sensor, and the bank 1 code is a fluke), then your whole issue can be resolved by simply replacing the cat converter and coolant temp sensor. That is why I said that you don't need to adhere to the way I would have gone about the situation, because that is simply my analysis of the issue (I could always be wrong). I am just stating what I would have done.

And no need for thanking me. This forum board has helped me in more than one case and I hope I can repay the favor[cool].

anmagro
01-17-2010, 04:58 PM
Also, found this.... http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-V6_30v/Engine/Cooling/Temperature_Sensor/ES1484/

Seerlah
01-17-2010, 05:12 PM
That is a different brand name sensor. The one MJM has for $25 shipped is the one that you would get from the dealership. The one in your link is a Meyle unit, and is cheaper. ECS also has the one you would get at the dealership, for $27+shipping. Link (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-V6_30v/Search/Coolant_Sensor/ES264174/). As I mentioned before, I would advise going OEM with sensors.

The only electrical item that I have not replaced with OEM units are my coil packs. But Audi kind of f*cked up and had the recall on my units I use. I ended up with the Hitachi/Beru units only after I tried replacing with OEM upgraded versions. Which turned out sucked also and Audi even reimbursed me for the money I spent on them. But Beru is the OEM brand name for the bolt down units on the other B5 1.8t vehicle, so.............

anmagro
01-18-2010, 12:44 AM
So add THIS to the fucking list now...

im in the parking lot, car idles for 20-25min just fine. take it home and 2 min in i get complete engine stall and acessory failure! (nothing works but the e-brake) the car just simply shut off and went into accesory mode! i quickly turn the key as to not hit a bush and i get a flicker of what seems to be a no seatbelt light?

whatever is going on....i cant have my car stall mid turns dammit. oh god.

Seerlah
01-18-2010, 07:34 AM
I take it you never driven a car with no power steering before? I would say to reset the ECU and see if you can crank the vehicle after that. Have a VAG Com (or generic OBD II scanner) handy, because you want to write down all codes as soon as you get her to crank. Possibly you have a completely shot 02 sensor and engine cut off to not damage it.

Edit: The 02 sensor being shot causing the issue was just a wold guess. But what you could do is scan the car while in the starting position. I am pretty sure you have a couple more new codes that will lead you in the right direction.

anmagro
01-18-2010, 12:38 PM
car started fine this morning, i drive it 1 hour into work. I should just buy a dam Vag.

also, i did push the car a little that night, right before it shut out. and it wasnt just loss of power steering and such, the car shut off (like when you turn the key to the first click)....the steering wheel locked.

anmagro
01-19-2010, 11:05 AM
Would i high flow cat possibly hurt performance on my car? I allready have a 2.5inch from the Cats back to the Tips with a straight through Magnaflow at the end.

anmagro
01-19-2010, 11:14 AM
ECS Tuning said that i needed the BLUE one. And that the Green one would not fit.

Seerlah
01-19-2010, 12:50 PM
Get another opinion to confirm. Call MJM or call any dealership and they will tell you what color unit you would need.